This larger die grinder ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxmwiwyX3ADeryrwvcsiwLeKxme6QNQmGL runs very smoothly in use. There's virtually no vibration. Paddle switch with the safety trigger is a bit cumbersome to use, but is much safer. Grinder cannot turn on if set down on the bench.Note that this die grinder, like most others, runs at 25,000 rpm. Always use a face shield and hearing protection. If your grinding stone has any sign of chips or cracks, throw it away. At 25,000 rpm, the stone sees very high G-loads and could come apart explosively if the stone is damaged. Always run the grinder for a short time before using it to check the stone.This tool is heavier than some but very well made.Recommended.
When I first used these bits and a die grinder, I didn't know how bad the slivers would be. I was doing work underneath my car, no gloves... may hands were absolutely COVERED with them. Was able to mostly clean up... one of them however went deep into my skin, and my body formed a capsule around it. That was 2-3 years ago, and actually just recently went to the Dr to get it removed. Yeah, don't skimp on the gloves, folks.
They are brutal! Sometimes I even wear rubber gloves under my welding gloves if I’m using the small burrs. They produce such a smaller chip and sliver, if feels like fiberglass in your skin, but worse!!
With any kind of sliver (swarf) rub alcohol on the skin, dig it out with a stearyl safety pin. The hole will heal. Most of the time if left in, your body will puss around it and force it out. My 2 pennies.
I'm always looking for better, faster, more efficient ways of working both at home and in my job. Love this kind of content and your no B/S presentation is enjoyable to watch. Your fabrication videos are inspiring. Keep up the good work.
I have know about carbide burrs pretty much forever but never bought them till recently. What a game changer. I like to keep both a compressed air source and the shop-vac close by when using them.
Those burrs are also a great way to remove the nitride edge from the inside of a plasma cut hole. So if you plasma cut some bolt holes, then decide you ought to go up a size, a quick pass with the burr will make it drill-friendly again - or you can use the burr for all the enlargement.
Thank you so much I was able to find a tungsten carbide burr for dremel and make a pill shaped hole I needed to get a mounting bracket to fit on a wind deflector. very happy. Glad I found this video.
I use these type of burs almost every day. Keep a good set of tweezers, and some magnification handy, to pull out those metal splinters. Thanks for the video.
I am currently "modifying" a winch ready rear bumper on a side by side and had no idea how to do it, I was thinking I would have to take it to a machine shop to have the work done, but your video just showed me how to do it, myself.! I mostly have to make the bolt slots longer on one side to get more distance between the support bars so I can put a 5,000 lb winch in a bumper made for a 3,500 lb winch. Then extend the slot where the cable goes through so I can use a bigger fairlead. I'm subscribing so I can learn more, I'm just starting metal working and have no idea what I need or how do to do what I want to do. Thanks for the video
It's a breeze to clean up the chips with a magnetic baton. Evolution makes one that works great. Removing the chips from the magnetic wand is super easy too. Step up the rpm to get rid of the chatter.
Found these a few years ago and holy crap are they great and fast to use. Even the cheap versions work fantastic for me with the small amount of metalworking I do
Cutting slots is easy with a Bridgeport, but not everybody has a mill. The carbide burrs are a great tool for both those who have and those who don't have a mill, can't throw a huge weldment assembly on a Bridgeport and the mill is too heavy and cumbersome to carry around the shop for quick carving. HAHAHA. I grew up the son and grandson of machinists who owned a successful machine shop, did my fair share too, chip control / evacuation / clean-up / recycling is a major part of the process and can be a literal pain. It's been four years since we sold our shop and I still find an occasional chip in my old work T-shirt pockets. Fine stainless slivers were the worst. Great tips and tricks!
Use them to blend micro undercut on welds where adding more weld would be far too much. Makes painted metal after welding look great. Also running it across before your weld pass can help to expose clean metal to get a smoother arc if your specimen happens to have a ton of rust and mill scale. 👌🏻
I find that with chip cleanup time and aggravating splinter risk, I almost never actually use my carbide burrs. This video is a good reminder that there are specific uses, but splinters can get all over so in the end they almost never actually get used given cleanup and protection hassles
I had used these for steel for many years, slotting and hole cleanup was a common function. Since my older set was stolen, need to get a new set. They are lifesavers when used right, it helps a bunch to use the proper PPE
Holy cow man. I just added new carbide burrs to my shopping cart like an hour ago. Great timing. Glad i didnt instant buy ( I usually wait a few days and add more stuff) because I realized. The set I was planning on getting are too cheap compared to pferd ones. But $120 for those steel burr set only is a bit rich for me, no more than I use them so will try to find a set around 60-80 that will be sufficient.
I don't know what it is, but when you are able to connect two holes you happen to drill, and now you have a more useful "oval" shape, there is something really satisfying about when the tool finally breaks into the other hole. (that's what she said.) lol
They make the cylinder shaped ones that cut on the end, and i have more than once used them to flatten a broken bolt deep down in a hole, in order to easier drill and extract it. Also, if you ever get the 6" extended burrs, don't bother putting them in a die grinder just grab a drill, ask me how i know
Fantastic mate, going to use this tool to grind away the thread of a 16mm hex nut as I'm making a destressed look signant ring. I use a magnet to brush up the metal slivers
Thanks man, you just solved my problem. I'm currently on a project, didn't see the need to waste cash on the burr tool, so I settled for a router (since I already have it). So far, it worked (cause I've smoothen over a 100 14mm holes so far) till yesterday when it snapped! God! It got me really frightened and sad, I couldn't go on cause the bit started to wobble (I think I got too comfortable and didn't grip it firmly in place, that's why). Straightened the bit but it just snapped again! So far, I think the speed of the router is way too much for the burr. I'm going to get the burr tool after all. Thanks again for the video, you just got an extra fan 😊
I looked for a good while on the net to find something like this, and info is great. Just wanted to do some simple slotting in aluminium for some surf racks/ trolley and did try using burrs in a drill (which you video told me after the fact, it wont work.. and is correct). Spent the money on a die grinder after watching this, and great result. so cheers.
I’ve burned out every model from Dremel they make. So I tried a WEN brand and I have yet too burn it out. It’s been great. Next I’m gonna try the battery Milwaukee. I have the die grinders and they are nice.
What is the best kind of burr bit to use when just trying to remove the excess steel/burr when you drill a hole. I'm talking about just cleaning the edges. For a cordless drill
ive actually had good luck using a ball end burr to clean up sharp edges on drilled holes. They really want to be spun faster than in just a drill, but a drill will do the trick if your in a bind!
Jigsaw for open work or a cutoff wheel on a Foredom tool with the flex shaft hand piece for blind holes work effortlessly, sans the steel needles associated with using the carbide burrs.
This was super helpful thanks! I just got a set of 10 double-cut carbide burrs and was doing a bit of research. Didn't know about the single cut variety. Also learned here about the chip dangers. I will probably run my shop vac nozzle right next to where I am grinding. Full PPE too - welding coat/gloves/cap, safety glasses, face shield with beard guard, and maybe even a mask.
Never tried one before on aluminum - that's really impressive - cou;d've saved me some trouble a few times. I just got an older Makita corded die grinder at an estate sale for $5!
Pneumatic tools have a motor it is just driven by compressed air not electricity. That is why they loose power after a lot of use, the vanes (air seals) wear and leak after a lot of use.
Those shavings are really bad, very sharp and get into everything - I use a shop vac with the nozzle tie-wired near to the grinding site, it helps a lot.
That’s a good tip! I’ve always thought if I could just find a way to deflect them or collect them it would make the process so much better! Nothing worst then finding one in your shirt later on!
Yeah we have a collector at our profile grinders too, I have a worn out welding jacket that I like to throw on with some nitrile gloves to keep the chip invasion down. The fun part is finding out that you didn't cover the tongue of your shoes after you've already made a big mess.
Been using carbide burrs at least 40 years, price is a LOT lower now than it used to be. You do know they are available with 6" shanks ? I usually cut them down to around 4" or so as 6" is way longer than I need and more difficult to control at 10,000 rpm. As for cutting aluminium, use WD40 or Crisco (Crisco is better than WD40) Using an air-line to blow off chips is a real bad idea, it drives them into places they wouldn't normally get, vacuum cleaner is a much better idea (and people throw out vacuum's all the time so it may not actually cost anything other than a few minuted cleaning out blockage in suction pipe - I got an almost new Dyson 'Pet hair' vac that had been thrown away and had a sheet of notepaper stuck in it)
Wolfcraft makes a hardened steel version that is sufficient to cut through most metals. I bought the conical shaped one for $6 bucks a month ago. It cut through eighth inch steel plating like it was nothing.
thanks for the great video. i didn't even know about die grinders until one of the stores i called looking for burrs mentioned them but i really can't go out and buy yet one more expensive tool. i was thinking of trying to use the burr in a drill press. connecting 2 drilled holes like you illustrate is exactly what i need to do but i assumed i should use a cylindrical rather than cone-shaped burr so maybe i made a mistake when i bought this more expensive style yesterday. i don't understand why it is better to use the cone but i guess it's so you can enter the predrilled hole from an angle. i'm glad you mentioned Dremel and i may try using that for this project.
They saved my butt. I welded a 3/8 plate on an industrial scaffolding to act as a benchtop and couldn't get it free (turns out radius on grinding discs won't let you hit corners... who knew?!). I used 1/8" chinesium carbide burra on my lower end Dremmel and really surprised with how quickly it got me out of that pickle
You should really try out the Milwaukee straight die grinder, I have both, the 90degree and the straight, I love them both!! Also, the 90 degree is great for using Rollock disks, with all sorts of types of abrasives!!
I have lots of burrs, several die grinders and a Dremel, but I don't think I have any Carbide burrs. I have stacks of carbide end mills and slot drills though, and worked 40 years as a toolmaker so I know how good they are (unless you drop them). I'll be ordering 1/4" and 1/8" sets today though. It broke my heart seeing that beautiful slab of aluminium eaten away. A piece like that would cost me some dollars here in NZ.
I used metal ones from the 70s till the early 2000s. And yes, they were the same ones, never had to replace them. No, they were not used daily, they had specific uses. And in my days it was air tools only. Y'all are spoiled with yer fancy cordless stuff.
I'm of the cordless generation, but I'd hands-down prefer air tools any day of the week. The sad reality of cordless tools is that there is not really even a single model currently produced, not even in 2022, which can deliver an amount of power/force large enough for it to be competitive in terms of performance with its pneumatic equivalent, AND can hold a charge for a significant enough duration that you won't have to spend 90 minutes recharging it after every 30 minutes of use. Battery technology simply isn't advanced enough yet to give power tool users the kinetic energy specs of they would find among middle of the road pneumatic tools while at the same time providing that energy on a continuous, uninterrupted basis for, say, 60 minutes, or 90 minutes, without the need for a recharge. Even if the technology was that advanced, the recharge period would probably 24 hours or some outlandish number like that, making pneumatic tools the better option for serious hobbyists and professionals, whatever their hobby or profession may be.
Agreed 100%. In my trade as a Fitter & Turner when l worked in construction & demolition we were issued with cordless power tools to try out and what we thought of them. Well, very quickly we found them to be useless, due to the fact from a lack of torque and very short run times. Every 15-20 minutes they ran out of power….We didn’t do much work that day. 😊 The next day, we went back to using pneumatic power tools, including the use of power corded tools. Cordless tools have their “pros & cons” but for serious heavy duty work demands…they are totally inadequate.
@@p5yc40nautI know this is an old post, sadly the technology is out there for it but the manufacturers want to charge way too much for it or won't make it available for reasons only they know. Some that savy with lithium battery mods will juice them up so that the tool can actually meet its potential. Unfortunately this will void the warranty but honestly it is something worth looking into if you like to mess with stuff like that. It's sad that the larger 21700 cells were specially made to give power tool batteries more capacity and more of a punch at a lower cost but the manufacturer's said screw that and doubled if not tripled the price in some situations
@p5yc40naut except you can have more than one battery. Most of us have a dozen or more batteries to go with a dozen or more tools. I carry a small charger and if I kill a batt I put it on charge and grab another. No down time and no compressor needed. If you were staying in shop all the time then yea air is better( maybe) but if your on the go batteries all the way
Great video with great tips. Now I'm going to go out and buy the larger burr sets, aluminum(single) and carbon steel(multiple). No more using my Drexel for bigger projects.
Okay I’m sold @ just over 5 minutes in when he cut out that bridge to create a slot I was impressed I have been there so many times and went the file route, why haven’t I seen these before being I weld and cut metal a lot?
Would a single cut work on the harder steel or whatever metal material or would it just get destroyed? Because I read the complete opposite. Single cut for an aggressive cut on whatever material and double cut was more for finishing work. Obviously watching this I know to use the double cut on the application I'm going to use it for so thank you. I know this is an older video so I don't know if you're still making content 🤔
Single cut works on steel too, I use single cut for finer work when I don’t want as aggressive of a surface finish. Go slower with less pressure and you’re fine.
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This larger die grinder ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxmwiwyX3ADeryrwvcsiwLeKxme6QNQmGL runs very smoothly in use. There's virtually no vibration. Paddle switch with the safety trigger is a bit cumbersome to use, but is much safer. Grinder cannot turn on if set down on the bench.Note that this die grinder, like most others, runs at 25,000 rpm. Always use a face shield and hearing protection. If your grinding stone has any sign of chips or cracks, throw it away. At 25,000 rpm, the stone sees very high G-loads and could come apart explosively if the stone is damaged. Always run the grinder for a short time before using it to check the stone.This tool is heavier than some but very well made.Recommended.
When I first used these bits and a die grinder, I didn't know how bad the slivers would be. I was doing work underneath my car, no gloves... may hands were absolutely COVERED with them.
Was able to mostly clean up... one of them however went deep into my skin, and my body formed a capsule around it. That was 2-3 years ago, and actually just recently went to the Dr to get it removed.
Yeah, don't skimp on the gloves, folks.
They are brutal! Sometimes I even wear rubber gloves under my welding gloves if I’m using the small burrs. They produce such a smaller chip and sliver, if feels like fiberglass in your skin, but worse!!
With any kind of sliver (swarf) rub alcohol on the skin, dig it out with a stearyl safety pin. The hole will heal. Most of the time if left in, your body will puss around it and force it out. My 2 pennies.
With a common metals, i use neodymium magnets. Im alergic with all kinds of metal but gold.😁😁😁
lol i hate them so mich so when i was yesterday grinding, i used hazmat overal 🥺😂
I'm always looking for better, faster, more efficient ways of working both at home and in my job. Love this kind of content and your no B/S presentation is enjoyable to watch. Your fabrication videos are inspiring. Keep up the good work.
I have know about carbide burrs pretty much forever but never bought them till recently. What a game changer. I like to keep both a compressed air source and the shop-vac close by when using them.
You can also use a carbide bur on a trim router. That way you can cut perpendicular in a very distinct depth and profile if needed.
Those burrs are also a great way to remove the nitride edge from the inside of a plasma cut hole. So if you plasma cut some bolt holes, then decide you ought to go up a size, a quick pass with the burr will make it drill-friendly again - or you can use the burr for all the enlargement.
Thank you so much I was able to find a tungsten carbide burr for dremel and make a pill shaped hole I needed to get a mounting bracket to fit on a wind deflector. very happy. Glad I found this video.
I use these type of burs almost every day. Keep a good set of tweezers, and some magnification handy, to pull out those metal splinters. Thanks for the video.
I use a shop vac with the ultra fine HEPA filter installed when cleaning up metal shavings.
I just fully restored one of those Hylo vises, picked up at auction, glad to see not everyone uses them exclusivley for milling
Thanks for bringing up the slivers that these burrs create b/c those things are deadly.
Very useful information. Thank you for taking the time to show each type and how they are used.
bar of soap on the bits before anything, makes life easy and the shop smells better too ;P
That’s a good bit of advice. You need a Chanel of your own if you have more like that
@@gavin6538 ty ;D i do have a channel. just slowly making videos, current project is worse than watching pain dry sadly.
@@frogpit as soon as I typed that I went over and had a look. Keep up the good work. I will be following.
@@gavin6538 thanks. Almost to 300 woo
I believe it but I don’t believe it haha
I am currently "modifying" a winch ready rear bumper on a side by side and had no idea how to do it, I was thinking I would have to take it to a machine shop to have the work done, but your video just showed me how to do it, myself.! I mostly have to make the bolt slots longer on one side to get more distance between the support bars so I can put a 5,000 lb winch in a bumper made for a 3,500 lb winch. Then extend the slot where the cable goes through so I can use a bigger fairlead. I'm subscribing so I can learn more, I'm just starting metal working and have no idea what I need or how do to do what I want to do. Thanks for the video
It's a breeze to clean up the chips with a magnetic baton. Evolution makes one that works great. Removing the chips from the magnetic wand is super easy too. Step up the rpm to get rid of the chatter.
Thanks...I'll check out that baton thing!
Found these a few years ago and holy crap are they great and fast to use. Even the cheap versions work fantastic for me with the small amount of metalworking I do
Cutting slots is easy with a Bridgeport, but not everybody has a mill. The carbide burrs are a great tool for both those who have and those who don't have a mill, can't throw a huge weldment assembly on a Bridgeport and the mill is too heavy and cumbersome to carry around the shop for quick carving. HAHAHA. I grew up the son and grandson of machinists who owned a successful machine shop, did my fair share too, chip control / evacuation / clean-up / recycling is a major part of the process and can be a literal pain. It's been four years since we sold our shop and I still find an occasional chip in my old work T-shirt pockets. Fine stainless slivers were the worst. Great tips and tricks!
Use them to blend micro undercut on welds where adding more weld would be far too much. Makes painted metal after welding look great. Also running it across before your weld pass can help to expose clean metal to get a smoother arc if your specimen happens to have a ton of rust and mill scale. 👌🏻
I never used one of these and I think you did a real good job introducing their benefits. Thanks for taking the time.
You just help me, I ve been having that problem and now I know how fix it. Thanks you
I find that with chip cleanup time and aggravating splinter risk, I almost never actually use my carbide burrs. This video is a good reminder that there are specific uses, but splinters can get all over so in the end they almost never actually get used given cleanup and protection hassles
I had used these for steel for many years, slotting and hole cleanup was a common function. Since my older set was stolen, need to get a new set. They are lifesavers when used right, it helps a bunch to use the proper PPE
Wow the world of tools is so vast and I'm always learning. I hope this tool gets me out of my tight spot.
Holy cow man. I just added new carbide burrs to my shopping cart like an hour ago. Great timing. Glad i didnt instant buy ( I usually wait a few days and add more stuff) because I realized. The set I was planning on getting are too cheap compared to pferd ones. But $120 for those steel burr set only is a bit rich for me, no more than I use them so will try to find a set around 60-80 that will be sufficient.
I don't know what it is, but when you are able to connect two holes you happen to drill, and now you have a more useful "oval" shape, there is something really satisfying about when the tool finally breaks into the other hole. (that's what she said.) lol
Must have a tool I learnt. Thank you for eye opening shares.
Thanks man for all ur content as a handyman u have inspired me to step up to th welding field we all appreciate u God Bless
The right tools make all the difference.
They make the cylinder shaped ones that cut on the end, and i have more than once used them to flatten a broken bolt deep down in a hole, in order to easier drill and extract it.
Also, if you ever get the 6" extended burrs, don't bother putting them in a die grinder just grab a drill, ask me how i know
Fantastic mate, going to use this tool to grind away the thread of a 16mm hex nut as I'm making a destressed look signant ring. I use a magnet to brush up the metal slivers
As was posted earlier, put your 1/4” shank carbide burr in a router table for precision results. Little bites, in the correct direction.
Some really cool metalworking tips there--thank you. Those bits are pricey but wow what results!
Thanks man, you just solved my problem.
I'm currently on a project, didn't see the need to waste cash on the burr tool, so I settled for a router (since I already have it).
So far, it worked (cause I've smoothen over a 100 14mm holes so far) till yesterday when it snapped! God! It got me really frightened and sad, I couldn't go on cause the bit started to wobble (I think I got too comfortable and didn't grip it firmly in place, that's why).
Straightened the bit but it just snapped again! So far, I think the speed of the router is way too much for the burr. I'm going to get the burr tool after all.
Thanks again for the video, you just got an extra fan 😊
Aluminum burrs work really well on hardwoods.
by the way , u can easily pick up the iron chips with a magnet. example : a speaker magnet ...
If your burr gets clogged with aluminum, you can let it sit in sodium hydroxide and the Al will dissolve without damaging the burr.
Bless,I want see more videos about carbides
For even the smallest jobs, I've learned to keep a hoover full blast near the grinding zone to suck up that evil stuff. That, AND gloves of course.
Thank you so much, this is exactly what I needed. I see these burr bits all the time in stores, but never knew how to use them. 👍👍
Thanks a lot for this wonderful video. I did not know about this useful tool.
A bit late find of your video but glad to hear you and your shop are well. Thanks for the review as well as the tutorial.
Love the tool tips videos! Please keep making them! This is a great example of a great tool that has so many uses, and saves time!
Dude those use cases are eye opening. I bought that right angle die grinder after watching some of your videos!
I looked for a good while on the net to find something like this, and info is great. Just wanted to do some simple slotting in aluminium for some surf racks/ trolley and did try using burrs in a drill (which you video told me after the fact, it wont work.. and is correct). Spent the money on a die grinder after watching this, and great result. so cheers.
I’ve burned out every model from Dremel they make. So I tried a WEN brand and I have yet too burn it out. It’s been great. Next I’m gonna try the battery Milwaukee. I have the die grinders and they are nice.
What is the best kind of burr bit to use when just trying to remove the excess steel/burr when you drill a hole. I'm talking about just cleaning the edges. For a cordless drill
ive actually had good luck using a ball end burr to clean up sharp edges on drilled holes. They really want to be spun faster than in just a drill, but a drill will do the trick if your in a bind!
Jigsaw for open work or a cutoff wheel on a Foredom tool with the flex shaft hand piece for blind holes work effortlessly, sans the steel needles associated with using the carbide burrs.
Thankyou for your INTEGRITY ! That means alot to this old man !!! Great video,very informative...
I’m a beginner/intermediate welder. That was a great video!
This was super helpful thanks! I just got a set of 10 double-cut carbide burrs and was doing a bit of research. Didn't know about the single cut variety. Also learned here about the chip dangers. I will probably run my shop vac nozzle right next to where I am grinding. Full PPE too - welding coat/gloves/cap, safety glasses, face shield with beard guard, and maybe even a mask.
Never tried one before on aluminum - that's really impressive - cou;d've saved me some trouble a few times. I just got an older Makita corded die grinder at an estate sale for $5!
They are great for porting heads.
Pneumatic tools have a motor it is just driven by compressed air not electricity. That is why they loose power after a lot of use, the vanes (air seals) wear and leak after a lot of use.
If you're working with steel little tip put a neodymium magnet in a bag the side of where your grinding it'll collect the chippings
Those shavings are really bad, very sharp and get into everything - I use a shop vac with the nozzle tie-wired near to the grinding site, it helps a lot.
That’s a good tip! I’ve always thought if I could just find a way to deflect them or collect them it would make the process so much better! Nothing worst then finding one in your shirt later on!
Yeah we have a collector at our profile grinders too, I have a worn out welding jacket that I like to throw on with some nitrile gloves to keep the chip invasion down. The fun part is finding out that you didn't cover the tongue of your shoes after you've already made a big mess.
FUNNY! I told my girlfriend, if you get one in your panties, you’ll know. Yes, they are very sharp. All swarf.
@@MakeEverything Oh, there are definitely worse places to get a sharp shaving than your shirt
I’m with you Jon, using air to clean off those little razors can be really bad. I also use a shop vac to pick them up while grinding.
Been using carbide burrs at least 40 years, price is a LOT lower now than it used to be.
You do know they are available with 6" shanks ? I usually cut them down to around 4" or so as 6" is way longer than I need and more difficult to control at 10,000 rpm.
As for cutting aluminium, use WD40 or Crisco (Crisco is better than WD40)
Using an air-line to blow off chips is a real bad idea, it drives them into places they wouldn't normally get, vacuum cleaner is a much better idea (and people throw out vacuum's all the time so it may not actually cost anything other than a few minuted cleaning out blockage in suction pipe - I got an almost new Dyson 'Pet hair' vac that had been thrown away and had a sheet of notepaper stuck in it)
Now this is exactly what I need!!
I ordered some TC burrs yesterday on Amazon and this "magically" appears in my suggestions.
Wolfcraft makes a hardened steel version that is sufficient to cut through most metals.
I bought the conical shaped one for $6 bucks a month ago. It cut through eighth inch steel plating like it was nothing.
thanks for the great video. i didn't even know about die grinders until one of the stores i called looking for burrs mentioned them but i really can't go out and buy yet one more expensive tool. i was thinking of trying to use the burr in a drill press. connecting 2 drilled holes like you illustrate is exactly what i need to do but i assumed i should use a cylindrical rather than cone-shaped burr so maybe i made a mistake when i bought this more expensive style yesterday. i don't understand why it is better to use the cone but i guess it's so you can enter the predrilled hole from an angle. i'm glad you mentioned Dremel and i may try using that for this project.
Pferd “Tough Cut” Burrs are god tier.
I used to use a torch in the 70s
Brilliant. Thank you.
Got a set from HF to dress inside welds, they did nothing to the welds but all the burrs on the dies were ground flat in a couple of minutes.
They saved my butt. I welded a 3/8 plate on an industrial scaffolding to act as a benchtop and couldn't get it free (turns out radius on grinding discs won't let you hit corners... who knew?!).
I used 1/8" chinesium carbide burra on my lower end Dremmel and really surprised with how quickly it got me out of that pickle
A poor man's milling machine!
I mainly use them for grinding awkward welds but they seem a lot more versatile than that. Great video!
Amazing .tutorial using carbide..new friend here giving my full support.
You should really try out the Milwaukee straight die grinder, I have both, the 90degree and the straight, I love them both!! Also, the 90 degree is great for using Rollock disks, with all sorts of types of abrasives!!
Just found 7 of these splinters in my skin just from watching this video. Those boogers get everywhere.
Good video demo to deburr metallic work using lithium battery electric rotating tool that are faster than the traditional primitive hand filing .
I have lots of burrs, several die grinders and a Dremel, but I don't think I have any Carbide burrs. I have stacks of carbide end mills and slot drills though, and worked 40 years as a toolmaker so I know how good they are (unless you drop them). I'll be ordering 1/4" and 1/8" sets today though. It broke my heart seeing that beautiful slab of aluminium eaten away. A piece like that would cost me some dollars here in NZ.
I used metal ones from the 70s till the early 2000s. And yes, they were the same ones, never had to replace them. No, they were not used daily, they had specific uses. And in my days it was air tools only. Y'all are spoiled with yer fancy cordless stuff.
I'm of the cordless generation, but I'd hands-down prefer air tools any day of the week. The sad reality of cordless tools is that there is not really even a single model currently produced, not even in 2022, which can deliver an amount of power/force large enough for it to be competitive in terms of performance with its pneumatic equivalent, AND can hold a charge for a significant enough duration that you won't have to spend 90 minutes recharging it after every 30 minutes of use. Battery technology simply isn't advanced enough yet to give power tool users the kinetic energy specs of they would find among middle of the road pneumatic tools while at the same time providing that energy on a continuous, uninterrupted basis for, say, 60 minutes, or 90 minutes, without the need for a recharge. Even if the technology was that advanced, the recharge period would probably 24 hours or some outlandish number like that, making pneumatic tools the better option for serious hobbyists and professionals, whatever their hobby or profession may be.
Agreed 100%. In my trade as a Fitter & Turner when l worked in construction & demolition we were issued with cordless power tools to try out and what we thought of them. Well, very quickly we found them to be useless, due to the fact from a lack of torque and very short run times. Every 15-20 minutes they ran out of power….We didn’t do much work that day. 😊
The next day, we went back to using pneumatic power tools, including the use of power corded tools.
Cordless tools have their “pros & cons” but for serious heavy duty work demands…they are totally inadequate.
@@p5yc40nautI know this is an old post, sadly the technology is out there for it but the manufacturers want to charge way too much for it or won't make it available for reasons only they know. Some that savy with lithium battery mods will juice them up so that the tool can actually meet its potential. Unfortunately this will void the warranty but honestly it is something worth looking into if you like to mess with stuff like that. It's sad that the larger 21700 cells were specially made to give power tool batteries more capacity and more of a punch at a lower cost but the manufacturer's said screw that and doubled if not tripled the price in some situations
@p5yc40naut except you can have more than one battery. Most of us have a dozen or more batteries to go with a dozen or more tools. I carry a small charger and if I kill a batt I put it on charge and grab another. No down time and no compressor needed. If you were staying in shop all the time then yea air is better( maybe) but if your on the go batteries all the way
PFERD - best brand for burrs but not cheap 👍😎
legend
Very helpful & informative thank you 😊
Great video with great tips. Now I'm going to go out and buy the larger burr sets, aluminum(single) and carbon steel(multiple). No more using my Drexel for bigger projects.
Your work is beautiful and useful
IF you don't work with aluminum a lot, then the Double cut works fine with aluminum, just spray some WD-40 and watch it eat.
Okay I’m sold @ just over 5 minutes in when he cut out that bridge to create a slot I was impressed I have been there so many times and went the file route, why haven’t I seen these before being I weld and cut metal a lot?
Face Shield, plus safety glasses with side shields. The debris those burrs create will fly everywhere!
Beaiutiful, original & very useful, thanks so much !!
Wow man. Appreciate this so much!
Theres this company in California that makes carbide burrs as well, they are called *Sev Cal Tool*
This video has been helpful, thank u.
Excellent knowledge.
Nice vid. Never blow shavings, vacuum. Full face shield with safety glasses.
Thanks
great video. thank you
The diamond cut version are even better imo
Amazing! Well... they were amazing before you were born also.
Why not use a strong magnet for the metal filings?
So it’s like a power file!
7:32 - Unless it's already put in place and you're doing an unplanned modification, what's stopping you from doing this in a mill?
Good info Sir…..
Would a single cut work on the harder steel or whatever metal material or would it just get destroyed? Because I read the complete opposite. Single cut for an aggressive cut on whatever material and double cut was more for finishing work. Obviously watching this I know to use the double cut on the application I'm going to use it for so thank you. I know this is an older video so I don't know if you're still making content 🤔
Single cut works on steel too, I use single cut for finer work when I don’t want as aggressive of a surface finish. Go slower with less pressure and you’re fine.
I need a set of the single cut!
They rip through aluminum!
Valuable info. Thanks!
Good stuff ! Thank you !
i got ready to use the burr i just bought with my Dremel but it won't accept a 1/4" shaft.
Great video.