Additional info: Both lights were calibrated and set to a 60C thermal limit, ran off Molicel P28A for the runtime tests. I also used the aluminum bezels on both lights for the tests just to eliminate any extra variables. While the boost driver did produce 2,000 lumens on one test, I always do multiple output tests for my turbo numbers and 1,600 was the much more consistent result, reflected in the runtime graphs. In theory I suppose it could be better under ideal circumstances.
You keep raising the bar. These videos must take a lot of work! BTW, Hank is working on improving the low modes on regulated drivers. I don't know how long it'll take, but it should result in lower lows which are more stable and more efficient. I'm hoping it can include a passive moon mode too, able to run without the MCU awake, which would increase runtime to a year or more... but I'm not sure if that's going to happen.
Thanks, they are time-consuming but fun to make. I just don't have much time for them anymore :P That sounds like an awesome update, I look forward to seeing the improved low modes. Hank did tell me there's no plans for a buck driver in the KR4 size, I still can't help but wonder if that will eventually come along though...
I do find moonlight mode on the boost driver too high for bump-in-the-night checks. I would say the linear driver that I have is just right. However efficiency and runtime are more important to me so I will never go back to a linear driver.
Thanks for explaining this. I definitely lean towards boost driven lights. To me the turbo mode is a gimmick for the people that want something with high numbers.
This is the best material on this topic, thanks! I will add that the boost driver, along with an increase in voltage, also reduces the current strength (the law of conservation of energy). So if the LED in your flashlight runs for example at 6V and is capable of accepting 8A, then you need a battery capable of delivering 6V * 8A = 48W, and this is a minimum of 15A, not 10. But high-current batteries (30 amps or higher) will already be overkill and will not provide any advantage
My man you outdone yourself again! The presentation part is phenomenal, I can see the passion (and countless hours dealing with AE's bullshit) put into this video!
Thank for making this video, especially comparing the drivers at 1k lumens. Most reviewers just show how well the boost driver sustains. While this is true (40 extra minutes!), you also showed that the linear can sustain quite a bit as is. 1k lumens is actually quite good. If I had a lumen tube, I'd love to see how high the two drivers can actually sustain.
Woah there brodi, when did this community start getting these high quality ass videos? I'm literally looking at an S21D 519a right now and can't decide between FET or Boost, this video is literally all the info I've ever wanted haha. Great job man, shit makes my balls feel good
Fantastic video! Love the animations for the driver types. Ya know, if you keep raising the bar for vid quality like this, you might end up with a lot more work 😉 Love to see the Meteor and K9.3 making an appearance! What emitters did you get in your K9.3? I recently got one with E21A 2000K and SST20 660nm deep red + tint ramping firmware, it's like a campfire and I love it.
I have been thinking about getting the D4V2 and was certainly wanting to know the differences between boost and linear. I had known most of what you talked about but it is very refreshing to have all the info in one place and a direct comparison with all the other parameters the same, thanks! I am personally a huge fan of switching regulation over linear. I have switching 18650 chargers (TP5100 vs the linear TP4056), the MC3000 vs the Opus, and a myriad of other boost/buck converters (even SEPIC) for my many DC-DC conversion needs. With my devices running on a single AC-DC supply it certainly saves bulk and usually efficiency.
Zebralight drivers are pretty incredible for all of the features they pack into such a tiny size. They're actually not as efficient as other switching drivers though
Good video. I have D4K and D8K, both with linear and boost drivers, and W2 emitters. Both lights behave similarly, given the same driver. As an example, on turbo, the boost driver will be brighter than linear after about 40 seconds, subjectively speaking. After the initial turbo punch, IMO, the boost driver is superior for extended use: brighter, cooler, runs longer.
Just noticed something I was hoping you could provide some clarification to. At 2:30 you show sustained output with the linear driver hovering roughly between 500-700 lumens with the 60°C limit, after the initial stepdown from turbo, then in the next graph of battery life at the same output you have the linear driver set to 1000 lumens, which is maintains for almost 3 hours. For that test was the thermal limit increased or was there some cooling to allow this higher sustained lumens? Or was nothing done differently, and it was all down to just not starting from turbo? Sorry if this has been answered already. Again, amazing video.
The thermal limit was the same, both drivers but especially the linear driver sustain a bit less during the full turbo run because the initial output spike generates so much heat. That spike is so dramatic is has a big impact on the total comparison, so that's part of why I included the 1K comparison
Great question! That's part of what makes these reviews so difficult - the light can sustain more, when running on Turbo it quickly builds up excess heat that can't be fully shed throughout the rest of the run - meaning sustained output can be higher when run at a lower mode. Finding the highest possible sustained output would require lots of testing and time that I can't justify, so I usually just run full Turbo and high runs.
I have 2 M21Fs from Convoy. One has the XHP70.3 (boost) and the other has the SFT40 (linear). While I'm impressed by the performance of the boost driver, the linear is just better. For one, the linear driver is much more stable and has never malfunctioned, while the boost driver can sometimes fail consistently. As for heat performance, they are pretty similar, which I wasn't expecting because they're both running at 30W max. but the SFT40 is being overdriven and the XHP70.3 underdriven. Not sure if it's the driver's fault but in practical terms linear drivers just seem better in my opinion.
Boost drivers are definitely more complicated and prone to having issues, quality drivers with stable and reliable performance tend to be expensive. I don't have much experience with Convoy's drivers but they seem to have some quality control issues with the boost models.
@@Joshuacliftojm well, the failures I encountered may only apply to Convoy drivers, if you want a better perspective you might want to ask someone who owns the lights. The most common problems I've encountered are during ramping mode and voltage detection. Sometimes the driver will sort of collapse during ramping when it reaches the top brightness and gets into a low power flickering state. In my experience, it's common for boost circuits to do this under high stress. The other one is that it tends to step down from turbo way more than the linear driver because of low voltage, when in reality the battery still has plenty of charge. Once again it will depend a lot on the design of the driver, Convoy offers very good low budget lights, but they're still that, low budget. I'd expect that higher end brands like Emisar would offer more stable boost drivers than Convoy. Anyways, hope you can find the information you need.
@@RainIndex Thanks. I assume you've tried tightening the head and tail of the flashlight? My FW3A sometimes goes into low-power strobe when I ramp up to a high level. Tightening the head & tail solves that issue. My old Fenix light (single-AA powered) will fail to ramp all the way to the top unless I really wrench the head tight. Some flashlights seem to have trouble getting enough current from the battery unless there is a very tight connection between the body tube and the head & tail.
@@Joshuacliftojm I don't think it's a contact issue. The head and tail are always very tight and they are the exact same body design, so it should happen to both instead of one.
I edc a DT8 with w2s (#hotrod lifestyle xD) and i take an 18650 battery bank, and a spare 18650 in a duel case with my cables so i can charge my phone, or all 3 batterys if i have a usb port, so i dont have to worry about runtime as i have 3 molicel p28As on me at one time, plus my d4v2 sst20 4000k with the 1100 mah 18350 on my keys
Hi thanks for that. I want to build a bike light that can run off of a single 188650. My current emitter is an XML U2 with an NANJC 105c. Would a boost with an XHP 70.2 be more efficient? I only need 60-100 brightness. Thanks
How high does the moonlight level need to be set (1 - 150) to avoid the initial flash on startup with the boost driver? Does the flash only occur at the very lowest few levels? I think Anduril is set to level 10 or 11 for the bottom of stepped ramp by default. Does that level work well and stably? Also, does the rippled output in the lower modes with the boost driver affect the levels higher than around 10?
I ordered a boost-driven D4V2 (Nichia 519A 5700K dedomed emitters), so I will answer my own questions for the benefit of others. I tested this light in a perfectly dark room against my old FET+1 (7135) driven D4V2 with Luminous SST-20 4000k emitters from 2020. The moonlight startup flash, which is pretty subtle, stops being noticeable at level 10, and even the few levels lower than that are already almost as bright as the flash, mostly masking it. The moonlight default level appears to be 10, which works perfectly and is as dim as I ever need it to be. (I have never needed a moonlight level of lower than 20 on my old D4V2.) (If I pay very close attention, I think I can see a very slight flash three or so levels above 10, but it is too slight to be sure.) The rippled moonlight output has about the same behavior, being barely noticeable by level 5 and gone (to my eyes) by level 10. Even at level 1 it is so subtle that it does not bother me and I have to pay close attention even to notice it. Above 5 I can hardly be sure I am even seeing it, even with dark-adjusted eyes. And I am very sensitive to strobing. As for minimum moonlight output, the boost driver seems to be achieving the same level 1 moonlight output as my old FET+1 D4V2, but I do not have the instruments to measure them. If it is higher, it is not noticeable to me. Perhaps Hank has improved the driver since this video was made. I am sufficiently satisfied both by the moonlight brightness (even at level 10) and the behavior of it at the lowest levels, and I am extremely picky and obsessive about details.
Asuming current draw between the two is the same then no. However, drivers with a FET will pull as much from the battery as possible which will affect lifespan in the long term.
I just don't really understand limiting the light with boost driver. I rarely need sustained high brightness levels that would justify the benefit of one. I guess some do.
Well, professionals do need this sustainability, Leo's, rescue teams and so on. You also don't hike a lot, don't you? It all depends, for edc lower outputs are enough and higher turbos are preety cool 😎 and also useful, surprisingly so...
@@wesolowskimatt the tiny spring on Hank's boost drivers, and all the components on the battery side of the driver, make feel like its a more delicate thing compared to the linear drivers and for that reason I don't like to use my boost driver lights for work. They're probably fine, but the linear drivers just look more solid so I lean to them for work without thinking about it
@@wesolowskimattI work outside constantly and I'm usually out till 10pm in the summer. I'm always using my lights. I like that bright turbo to see things far off sometimes. I'm in the country. I did just get a ts22 and it last quite a long time with it's more efficient driver.
So ive got 4 hank lights, 2 d4v2's, a kr4 and a d1, and used boost drivers on all of the quads. I'm looking at getting my first 21700 (the d4k with 519a's) and im struggling to pick between the boost and the linear. Anyone able to chime in with what they'd go for and why? Im not sure which fits the 21700 better given it's got the same thermal mass.
I've just ordered a D4V2 with the default driver, because I really needed the lowest moonlight level... But now I wonder If I'll get the linear or the FET+1 driver! 😫 There's no option for the linear driver on the website, only for the boost driver. Do you know what the standard driver is?
Is the sfn60 a boost driven led? Whats its voltage, i have 2 d1v2s with them, one at 5500k one at 3000k they seem to chew molicel p28as as fast as my DT8 does blasting turbo all the time
Wait hanks website says ‘em the boost driver is not compatible with the 519a, but your flashlight has this configuration. What does this mean. Also I notice that hanks website lets me use select the boost driver and the 519a in though he says it’s not compatible…. I’m confused
The Wurkkos TS22 is almost godlike... It manages to beat the Acebeam E70 and match the P17 in performance, all while costing about half the price of the P17.
I've been holding off on it as well since I have an Acebeam E70. But now that it comes with the better throwing XHP70.3HI, it's just too good to pass up a more compact P17. Now, if only that emitter will come back into stock...
@@jackblock7451 I have the SC33 in green and it is one of my favorite lights. (At least when I'm not pocket carrying. She's a bit chonky for that.) Pushes 5k lumens out of a boost driver - sustains close to 2k; which is very very good. Ramping UI. Find myself grabbing it for it's battery bank function also. I think it's good for 3A? either way it seems to fast my phone charge quite well. Paid like $40 (w/battery) during a sale, amazing value.
![DANGEROUSLY FUN - Emisar D4V2 [In-Depth Review]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Dk3Q1YYqU2c/mqdefault.jpg)
![DANGEROUSLY FUN - Emisar D4V2 [In-Depth Review]](/img/tr.png)
![DOUBLE TROUBLE [Noctigon DM1.12]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vuFHHFaSGLw/mqdefault.jpg)
Additional info:
Both lights were calibrated and set to a 60C thermal limit, ran off Molicel P28A for the runtime tests.
I also used the aluminum bezels on both lights for the tests just to eliminate any extra variables.
While the boost driver did produce 2,000 lumens on one test, I always do multiple output tests for my turbo numbers and 1,600 was the much more consistent result, reflected in the runtime graphs. In theory I suppose it could be better under ideal circumstances.
THE GOAT IS BACK
You keep raising the bar. These videos must take a lot of work!
BTW, Hank is working on improving the low modes on regulated drivers. I don't know how long it'll take, but it should result in lower lows which are more stable and more efficient. I'm hoping it can include a passive moon mode too, able to run without the MCU awake, which would increase runtime to a year or more... but I'm not sure if that's going to happen.
Thanks, they are time-consuming but fun to make. I just don't have much time for them anymore :P
That sounds like an awesome update, I look forward to seeing the improved low modes.
Hank did tell me there's no plans for a buck driver in the KR4 size, I still can't help but wonder if that will eventually come along though...
I do find moonlight mode on the boost driver too high for bump-in-the-night checks. I would say the linear driver that I have is just right. However efficiency and runtime are more important to me so I will never go back to a linear driver.
When I use my lights it is usually for more than a minute, which is why I opted for the boost driver
Thanks for explaining this. I definitely lean towards boost driven lights. To me the turbo mode is a gimmick for the people that want something with high numbers.
4k lumens lasts like 15s so i agree
This is the best material on this topic, thanks! I will add that the boost driver, along with an increase in voltage, also reduces the current strength (the law of conservation of energy). So if the LED in your flashlight runs for example at 6V and is capable of accepting 8A, then you need a battery capable of delivering 6V * 8A = 48W, and this is a minimum of 15A, not 10. But high-current batteries (30 amps or higher) will already be overkill and will not provide any advantage
My man you outdone yourself again! The presentation part is phenomenal, I can see the passion (and countless hours dealing with AE's bullshit) put into this video!
Haha glad you like it! I definitely had to learn some new things to produce those animations, it was a fun process
Thank for making this video, especially comparing the drivers at 1k lumens. Most reviewers just show how well the boost driver sustains. While this is true (40 extra minutes!), you also showed that the linear can sustain quite a bit as is. 1k lumens is actually quite good. If I had a lumen tube, I'd love to see how high the two drivers can actually sustain.
Woah there brodi, when did this community start getting these high quality ass videos? I'm literally looking at an S21D 519a right now and can't decide between FET or Boost, this video is literally all the info I've ever wanted haha. Great job man, shit makes my balls feel good
I know you're told this all the time, but your production and content is out of this world. Amazing use of lighting, too!
I love it when you put out new videos. the quality is top notch always. your channel is highly underrated.
Love this video please do more like these!!
Fantastic video! Love the animations for the driver types. Ya know, if you keep raising the bar for vid quality like this, you might end up with a lot more work 😉
Love to see the Meteor and K9.3 making an appearance! What emitters did you get in your K9.3? I recently got one with E21A 2000K and SST20 660nm deep red + tint ramping firmware, it's like a campfire and I love it.
My K9.3 is 219b SW45k for the main channel, SST20 660nm for the second channel
I've been waiting for it! Fantastic info, that's all I needed to know. Thanks a lot, LuxWad
I took pictures and was going to make forum posts about the difference in lows, but you already covered it here. Great job!
Thanks for making the point about the driver spring on the boosts. It doesn't inspire confidence.
I have been thinking about getting the D4V2 and was certainly wanting to know the differences between boost and linear. I had known most of what you talked about but it is very refreshing to have all the info in one place and a direct comparison with all the other parameters the same, thanks!
I am personally a huge fan of switching regulation over linear. I have switching 18650 chargers (TP5100 vs the linear TP4056), the MC3000 vs the Opus, and a myriad of other boost/buck converters (even SEPIC) for my many DC-DC conversion needs. With my devices running on a single AC-DC supply it certainly saves bulk and usually efficiency.
@6:49 3V xhp50's are used in a lot of lights tho watch out for those. But ya, the other 2 xhp size are.
Zebralights have buck + boost drivers and have amazing moonlight modes.
Zebralight drivers are pretty incredible for all of the features they pack into such a tiny size. They're actually not as efficient as other switching drivers though
Snap. Trust Luxwad to have the deep dirt on the subject.
Good video. I have D4K and D8K, both with linear and boost drivers, and W2 emitters. Both lights behave similarly, given the same driver. As an example, on turbo, the boost driver will be brighter than linear after about 40 seconds, subjectively speaking. After the initial turbo punch, IMO, the boost driver is superior for extended use: brighter, cooler, runs longer.
Agreed. I have both and the initial Linear was fun but fad too soon. Boost driver for me.
Great commentary and video quality!
High quality video production 👏🏼
Welcome back LuxWad!
What I never left 😂
@@LuxWad haha it has been ages since the last video.
Your reviews are very goed my guy :)
Good, simple easy to understand explanatory, Thank you
Cheers🔦
Just noticed something I was hoping you could provide some clarification to. At 2:30 you show sustained output with the linear driver hovering roughly between 500-700 lumens with the 60°C limit, after the initial stepdown from turbo, then in the next graph of battery life at the same output you have the linear driver set to 1000 lumens, which is maintains for almost 3 hours. For that test was the thermal limit increased or was there some cooling to allow this higher sustained lumens? Or was nothing done differently, and it was all down to just not starting from turbo? Sorry if this has been answered already. Again, amazing video.
The thermal limit was the same, both drivers but especially the linear driver sustain a bit less during the full turbo run because the initial output spike generates so much heat.
That spike is so dramatic is has a big impact on the total comparison, so that's part of why I included the 1K comparison
Great video my friend hope to see more videos from you in the future.
you deserve more subs!
Superb videos.
Excellent video! How did you get the linear one to run at ~1k lumens I thought you said it was temperature limited to ~500lm
Great question! That's part of what makes these reviews so difficult - the light can sustain more, when running on Turbo it quickly builds up excess heat that can't be fully shed throughout the rest of the run - meaning sustained output can be higher when run at a lower mode. Finding the highest possible sustained output would require lots of testing and time that I can't justify, so I usually just run full Turbo and high runs.
@@LuxWad
1k lumens for over 2 hours is great. Was there a big difference in temperature like 60C to 40C or so? Ty
@@rainer904 Yes, there was a big difference but I don't have the specific numbers.
Both lights were set to a 60C target for all the tests.
Yay new vid
I have 2 M21Fs from Convoy. One has the XHP70.3 (boost) and the other has the SFT40 (linear). While I'm impressed by the performance of the boost driver, the linear is just better. For one, the linear driver is much more stable and has never malfunctioned, while the boost driver can sometimes fail consistently. As for heat performance, they are pretty similar, which I wasn't expecting because they're both running at 30W max. but the SFT40 is being overdriven and the XHP70.3 underdriven. Not sure if it's the driver's fault but in practical terms linear drivers just seem better in my opinion.
Boost drivers are definitely more complicated and prone to having issues, quality drivers with stable and reliable performance tend to be expensive. I don't have much experience with Convoy's drivers but they seem to have some quality control issues with the boost models.
What kinds of failures have you encountered? I'm trying to decide between the two drivers for a D4v2 with 519a DD emitters. Difficult decision...
@@Joshuacliftojm well, the failures I encountered may only apply to Convoy drivers, if you want a better perspective you might want to ask someone who owns the lights. The most common problems I've encountered are during ramping mode and voltage detection. Sometimes the driver will sort of collapse during ramping when it reaches the top brightness and gets into a low power flickering state. In my experience, it's common for boost circuits to do this under high stress. The other one is that it tends to step down from turbo way more than the linear driver because of low voltage, when in reality the battery still has plenty of charge. Once again it will depend a lot on the design of the driver, Convoy offers very good low budget lights, but they're still that, low budget. I'd expect that higher end brands like Emisar would offer more stable boost drivers than Convoy. Anyways, hope you can find the information you need.
@@RainIndex Thanks. I assume you've tried tightening the head and tail of the flashlight? My FW3A sometimes goes into low-power strobe when I ramp up to a high level. Tightening the head & tail solves that issue. My old Fenix light (single-AA powered) will fail to ramp all the way to the top unless I really wrench the head tight. Some flashlights seem to have trouble getting enough current from the battery unless there is a very tight connection between the body tube and the head & tail.
@@Joshuacliftojm I don't think it's a contact issue. The head and tail are always very tight and they are the exact same body design, so it should happen to both instead of one.
Yup
What LED combinations do you guys recommend
Well, I'm still not sure which one should I get for my future KR4.😂
I edc a DT8 with w2s (#hotrod lifestyle xD) and i take an 18650 battery bank, and a spare 18650 in a duel case with my cables so i can charge my phone, or all 3 batterys if i have a usb port, so i dont have to worry about runtime as i have 3 molicel p28As on me at one time, plus my d4v2 sst20 4000k with the 1100 mah 18350 on my keys
Hi thanks for that. I want to build a bike light that can run off of a single 188650. My current emitter is an XML U2 with an NANJC 105c. Would a boost with an XHP 70.2 be more efficient? I only need 60-100 brightness.
Thanks
Yes, the boost driver + XHP would be more efficient, as the NANJC driver uses the AMC7135 linear regulator.
How high does the moonlight level need to be set (1 - 150) to avoid the initial flash on startup with the boost driver? Does the flash only occur at the very lowest few levels? I think Anduril is set to level 10 or 11 for the bottom of stepped ramp by default. Does that level work well and stably?
Also, does the rippled output in the lower modes with the boost driver affect the levels higher than around 10?
I ordered a boost-driven D4V2 (Nichia 519A 5700K dedomed emitters), so I will answer my own questions for the benefit of others. I tested this light in a perfectly dark room against my old FET+1 (7135) driven D4V2 with Luminous SST-20 4000k emitters from 2020.
The moonlight startup flash, which is pretty subtle, stops being noticeable at level 10, and even the few levels lower than that are already almost as bright as the flash, mostly masking it. The moonlight default level appears to be 10, which works perfectly and is as dim as I ever need it to be. (I have never needed a moonlight level of lower than 20 on my old D4V2.)
(If I pay very close attention, I think I can see a very slight flash three or so levels above 10, but it is too slight to be sure.)
The rippled moonlight output has about the same behavior, being barely noticeable by level 5 and gone (to my eyes) by level 10. Even at level 1 it is so subtle that it does not bother me and I have to pay close attention even to notice it. Above 5 I can hardly be sure I am even seeing it, even with dark-adjusted eyes. And I am very sensitive to strobing.
As for minimum moonlight output, the boost driver seems to be achieving the same level 1 moonlight output as my old FET+1 D4V2, but I do not have the instruments to measure them. If it is higher, it is not noticeable to me.
Perhaps Hank has improved the driver since this video was made.
I am sufficiently satisfied both by the moonlight brightness (even at level 10) and the behavior of it at the lowest levels, and I am extremely picky and obsessive about details.
I'm struggling to find the list of flashlights with buck/boost drivers. Can anyone help?
Is one driver 'harder' on the cells than the other?
Asuming current draw between the two is the same then no. However, drivers with a FET will pull as much from the battery as possible which will affect lifespan in the long term.
I just don't really understand limiting the light with boost driver. I rarely need sustained high brightness levels that would justify the benefit of one. I guess some do.
Driving 6v/12v emitters
Well, professionals do need this sustainability, Leo's, rescue teams and so on. You also don't hike a lot, don't you? It all depends, for edc lower outputs are enough and higher turbos are preety cool 😎 and also useful, surprisingly so...
@@wesolowskimatt the tiny spring on Hank's boost drivers, and all the components on the battery side of the driver, make feel like its a more delicate thing compared to the linear drivers and for that reason I don't like to use my boost driver lights for work. They're probably fine, but the linear drivers just look more solid so I lean to them for work without thinking about it
@@wesolowskimattI work outside constantly and I'm usually out till 10pm in the summer. I'm always using my lights. I like that bright turbo to see things far off sometimes. I'm in the country. I did just get a ts22 and it last quite a long time with it's more efficient driver.
So ive got 4 hank lights, 2 d4v2's, a kr4 and a d1, and used boost drivers on all of the quads. I'm looking at getting my first 21700 (the d4k with 519a's) and im struggling to pick between the boost and the linear. Anyone able to chime in with what they'd go for and why? Im not sure which fits the 21700 better given it's got the same thermal mass.
babe wake up new luxwad just dropped
hello LuxWad, I want to ask something. is the Nitecore MH25GTS flashlight in the Boots category?
I've just ordered a D4V2 with the default driver, because I really needed the lowest moonlight level... But now I wonder If I'll get the linear or the FET+1 driver! 😫 There's no option for the linear driver on the website, only for the boost driver.
Do you know what the standard driver is?
The D4V2 now comes with the Linear driver, the only lights with the older 7135 drivers are the D4SV2 and the D18
@@LuxWad that's a relief, thanks! 😊
Can you point me to the right direction, i wanted to upgrade an ultrafire sk98 with the brightest led it can handle paired with a good boost driver 😢
I'd ask on BudgetLightForum.com.
Mountain Electronics is a good source for flashlight modding supplies
Is the sfn60 a boost driven led? Whats its voltage, i have 2 d1v2s with them, one at 5500k one at 3000k they seem to chew molicel p28as as fast as my DT8 does blasting turbo all the time
SFN60 is a 3v LED
Wait hanks website says ‘em the boost driver is not compatible with the 519a, but your flashlight has this configuration. What does this mean. Also I notice that hanks website lets me use select the boost driver and the 519a in though he says it’s not compatible…. I’m confused
What lights are you looking at? Any single-emitter light cannot pair a 3v LED with a boost driver, only the quads are able to do that.
@@LuxWad it’s d4v2 ti 519a 4500k.
@iosonoi.7132 just email him about it, he probably forgot to add that option to his site
Please remove the protective film off your thermometer.
No
@@LuxWad😂😅😅😂
Just give me a buck+FET driver for the best of both worlds
I really want to see more lights with LUME1 style drivers
@@LuxWadNot really a true FET though
What is the light at 7:07 ? Is that an Acebeam P series? Dont have one of those
Acebeam P17
The one thing I got from this video is one is not better then the other. Its a tradeoff.
The Wurkkos TS22 is almost godlike... It manages to beat the Acebeam E70 and match the P17 in performance, all while costing about half the price of the P17.
I've been interested in that light for a while, looks like I'll have to finally get one
I've been holding off on it as well since I have an Acebeam E70. But now that it comes with the better throwing XHP70.3HI, it's just too good to pass up a more compact P17. Now, if only that emitter will come back into stock...
Sofirn SC33 and back button - this is E70 economic killer 😁
@@jackblock7451 I have the SC33 in green and it is one of my favorite lights. (At least when I'm not pocket carrying. She's a bit chonky for that.) Pushes 5k lumens out of a boost driver - sustains close to 2k; which is very very good. Ramping UI. Find myself grabbing it for it's battery bank function also. I think it's good for 3A? either way it seems to fast my phone charge quite well. Paid like $40 (w/battery) during a sale, amazing value.
Thats annoying there are so many tread offs for efficiency
crazy how the higher output is called linear and the longer lasting driver is called boost 0:07
It "boosts your runtime" is a way to look at it
Kinda reminds me of shipping - which is transporting things by truck. But if it's moved by ship - we call it cargo.