i did this job without removing the knuckle, i only took off the caliper and removed the retaining bolt for the ball joint pushed the lower control arm out of the ball joint stud and pushed the lower control arm down and wedged a brick between the lower control arm and the stabilizer arm, removed the circlip pressed the ball joint our with the same g clamp and pushed the new one in. i used an impact wrench for the pushing
thanks for posting the video and torque specs. i started with axle nut removal, then lower horizontal strut bolt, then the upper caliper bolt, then lower caliper bolt then upper strut horizontal bolt, then disk removal, then sensor and ball joint bolt.. for some reason i could not get my sockets in there because the bolts were protruding against each other and i could not get my tools in there. I also had to pound the ball joint out of the assembly as it was seized. the ball joint was also rusted and seized in the lower arm, and it broke into pieces as i pushed it out the bottom end. sanded and painted the rusted bits. i found the half ring for the ball joint to be a pain in the ass to put back on, it kept snapping on me. i actually removed the rubber boot off the ball joint so i can put the ring on without damaging the boot. then put the boot back on with its retaining rings. worked like a charm.
Tools on a budget: automotiveforbeginners.com/replace-bad-ball-joint-symptoms/ Replacement Part - Ball Joint: amzn.to/3Tx1lgn Amazon Prime - Same day delivery* *up to 2 days delivery
You don't need to do half of what was done, just undo the track rod end and lower ball joint. Release hub from wishbone and move to one side. Hitting cast iron and using a screwdriver to undo hub nut is just asking for trouble. Try loosening it before jacking it up or if you forget get someone to put foot on the brakes or use a piece of wood.
After doing this the ball joint was stuck and i couldn't get it out. So i ened up dropping the control arm. I then realized, it would have been easier if i had just dropped the control arm pressed out the ball joint and reinstalled the controll arm.
Agreed. I recommend that route to take if you have a vice for stabilization. But if no vice, still shouldn't be a problem. Sometimes it boils down to preference.
@@AutomotiveForBeginners i buy a new control arm, im trying take off old one and put the new, my problem are in this step… i will try later take off the back of control arm first and later i will try take off the ball joint, i think this will work
Doing this tomorrow. I especially appreciate that you included the torque figures for the different fasteners. Thank you
i did this job without removing the knuckle, i only took off the caliper and removed the retaining bolt for the ball joint pushed the lower control arm out of the ball joint stud and pushed the lower control arm down and wedged a brick between the lower control arm and the stabilizer arm, removed the circlip pressed the ball joint our with the same g clamp and pushed the new one in. i used an impact wrench for the pushing
thanks for posting the video and torque specs. i started with axle nut removal, then lower horizontal strut bolt, then the upper caliper bolt, then lower caliper bolt then upper strut horizontal bolt, then disk removal, then sensor and ball joint bolt.. for some reason i could not get my sockets in there because the bolts were protruding against each other and i could not get my tools in there. I also had to pound the ball joint out of the assembly as it was seized. the ball joint was also rusted and seized in the lower arm, and it broke into pieces as i pushed it out the bottom end. sanded and painted the rusted bits. i found the half ring for the ball joint to be a pain in the ass to put back on, it kept snapping on me. i actually removed the rubber boot off the ball joint so i can put the ring on without damaging the boot. then put the boot back on with its retaining rings. worked like a charm.
Tools on a budget: automotiveforbeginners.com/replace-bad-ball-joint-symptoms/
Replacement Part - Ball Joint: amzn.to/3Tx1lgn
Amazon Prime - Same day delivery*
*up to 2 days delivery
Thanks for posting this. Much appreciated.
great video. i don’t have many tips, but next time try using your floor jack to lift the hub so you can remove the control arm easier
You don't need to do half of what was done, just undo the track rod end and lower ball joint. Release hub from wishbone and move to one side. Hitting cast iron and using a screwdriver to undo hub nut is just asking for trouble. Try loosening it before jacking it up or if you forget get someone to put foot on the brakes or use a piece of wood.
Thank you
Yes
Good Video, not sure of process? BTW it’s called a ‘Cotter-Pin’ and always replace with New One, they are very cheap!!
You can get alot too
After doing this the ball joint was stuck and i couldn't get it out. So i ened up dropping the control arm. I then realized, it would have been easier if i had just dropped the control arm pressed out the ball joint and reinstalled the controll arm.
Agreed. I recommend that route to take if you have a vice for stabilization.
But if no vice, still shouldn't be a problem. Sometimes it boils down to preference.
How long did it take you to do this?
I think you should let the pros at shop deal with this
Hi. What is the part # or web site to purchase
Check out the link below:
fxo.co/CTxL
It comes with free shipping and first time fit guarantee
I cant remove mine, seems like is soldered 🥴
Try using penetrating oil. If all else fails, time for a new control arm.
@@AutomotiveForBeginners i buy a new control arm, im trying take off old one and put the new, my problem are in this step… i will try later take off the back of control arm first and later i will try take off the ball joint, i think this will work
I just leave the shocker and then i can take off the ball joint easy! Job done
You have found the answer in plain sight 😁
Please don't re-use cotter pins. Great otherwise.
Why not?