Hey just a little tidbit that caused me some real issues with my 2019 Nissan Rogue sv. My car kept dying and I was having issues with all sorts of electrical features, like the lift gate wouldn't work all the time, nor would the key fob, automatic braking system, etc... I had a couple mechanics look at it after I couldn't figure it out, and nothing. Battery was good, everything came back as normal when I ran the codes as well. By miracle, I came across a random online article stating that the battery for this vehicle wasn't just a normal run of the mill battery. Because of all its fancy features, it requires a battery that gives it more juice. After getting the proper battery, my vehicle has ran like a champ!! Maybe this isn't news to anyone reading ,but I found thousands of ppl who had the same issues, and mechanics were unaware as well. Just thought I'd share in case it helps someone with a headache! It requires a 35-AGM. To be more specific, a DieHard Platinum AGM - Battery, Group Size 35, 650 CCA (Part No. 35-AGM)
Woah!! Of course no one at the dealership mentioned this detail. My husband and I just bought our Rogue a few months ago. No problems but checking for this immediately! Thank you for the heads up
I'm having the same problem too with my 2018 SL (battery keeps dying). I was told by a good friend of mine to just change the original battery; reading your comment corroborates that for me. Thanks!
@@nakiabrown994 I can guarantee you that the correct battery I mentioned will work! I was so grateful it was just the battery! So happy to have helped!!
Good video. I like the fact that you mentioned that a 14mm socket was required for drain plug to give viewer a chance to prepare his/her tools. FYI: Prior to installing new filter, one should ALWAYS wipe the mating surface where oil filter sits on the adapter/engine block to ensure there isn't any FOC (Foreign Object Damage)... just proper work ethic :)
No lié been working on cars for 18 years done maybe about 200 oil changes. I cleaned the mating surface of the oil filter housing maybe 5 out of 200 times. Never had a problem.
Sometimes that first oil filter is put on dry at the factory and they can be a real pain to get off. That happens with a lot of Chrysler owners. They sometimes drive a screw driver through it and use that to turn it. I have a rather weird looking pair of pliers for removing stuck oil filters. It WILL do some damage to the metal can but it gets them off anyhow. You can imagine we don't always need such an extreme tool. A large pair of channel lock pliers also works if you can open it enough and probably works just as well.
Always wipe off the filter mount where the filter seal seats and the oil pan around the drain plug. People tend to overtighten the filters, which can cause a leak.
Great video, just a quick suggestion, if it wasn't mention yet, it's best to use a torque wrench to tighten screw. Too tight and you will need a new oil pan. For this car screw needs to be tighten between 22 and 29 ft-lb.
Good point and torque wrench is always best angle of measurement. I stick to the tried and true “hand tighten” method, especially for those without a torque wrench doing the job. 😊
I just changed my oil in the 18 Rogue and 14 Altima. I torqued them to 27 ft lbs. it wouldn’t take much to strip the pan threads out. Definitely use a torque wrench. Great Video. Thanks for posting it.
1) need to replace the gasket on the oil tank nut every time. 2) the nut torque is 25ft.lbs, better to use torque wrench to make it right. nice video overal. thanks.
I prefer to use NEW oil to apply on the new oil filter gasket so....I don't cross contaminate the new oil. A oil filter wrench( designed to remove oil filters is a better removal tool. I know...to each his own. Lol. Otherwise...a good video. Thank you Tom
You said some shops use an air wrench on the drain bolt. Sometimes they strip them accidentally and use a plastic insert. I stay the heck away from quick lube places for that exact reason. That is not the only reason I do it though, I pocket the difference that would have been used to pay for their labor and use it to help pay for synthetic oil. I like the Liqui Moly Special Tec AA 5w20. It is made specifically for direct injected engines to help prevent low speed preignition. I know there are a lot of products that make some really insane claims but Liqui Moly is one of the few companies that actually does what they say. It is a good German brand of motor oil and costs about the same as Mobil one. I was a Volkswagen owner and used it then and still do now. It is not just for German vehicles, anyone willing to spend the cash for synthetic oil could buy it. They also make a wide variety of additives. When I used it mom's Nissan Rogue she mentioned how hard it was to keep it down to 15 MPH in school zones. Ours is a 2017 Rogue Sport SV and it has the MR20DD which is direct injected. You would never guess that it has a factory rating of 141 HP. I am quite pleased it doesn't have the filter on the side. Some Toyotas have it on the side too and I have seen vids of guys taking tires off to get to it. That might be enough to make me trade the thing in!!
I’ve ultimately worked out a simple process to get at the oil filter, cranking the front tires all the way to the right. Ultimately not as bad as some other car designs.
@@MattStephensRich I don't own a Toyota, I just saw it and was thinking why would they do such a thing!! Surely there must have been a better place. The guy doing the change was older and although he said nothing about hating the design he didn't seem happy with it anyhow. I personally would have used it as part of an argument for the way some companies are anti repair!
@@MattStephensRich Mine is like that too but at least they have the pipe. Some manufacturers are so bent on us buying a new vehicle they remove it to make it harder to do the change. They also make it crazy expensive (probably so no one ever gets it done).
While I was shopping for the oil and filter to change I googled capacity for the oil and it said this: The 2019 Nissan Rogue uses sae 0w-20 full synthetic oil. the 2.0l engine has a capacity of 4.1 quarts while the 2.5l can hold 4.9 quarts. so it’s safe to assume you have a 2.0l engine in your Rogue since you put 4 quarts back in? Also if you could do a video on changing the cabin filter?
Cabin air filter video is inbound. This is actually the 2.5L engine; it's important to bear in-mind that you rarely drain the *full* oil capacity; there's often residual in different parts of the engine. Given Nissan's aggressive 5k drain interval, it's ok to have left over oil in the engine. :)
Sometimes in a shop when they use an air wrench they ruin the plug hole threads. ALWAYS if you find they used some sort of insert make them pay for a NEW OEM pan!! We can't let them get away with that!! Of course my Volkswagen never goes to Iffy Lube or a similar quick oil change place. If you can do it yourself, pocket the difference and buy good synthetic oil.
Definitely not the best spot. I've actually resorted to using a longer mileage filter and pushing the filter two change cycles at a time to minimize need to go fishing lol
Hello Matt, some of the videos on UA-cam suggest 1. putting new oil in the new oil filter before putting it on the car. 2. Open the oil cap and dip stick to avoid creating vacuum while draining. 3. Drain overnight. Are these good practice law and does it make any difference?
Good questions all around! I humbly submit that while all are certainly not bad steps (and good to do if you have the time!), they do not fundamentally change the difference of quality of job.
Thank for the great explanation! I just changed the oil in my Rogue today thanks to your video! One question: Where did you lift up the car with your jack?
Thank you for the detailed explanation. That helps a lot. I have a startup question. I need to know the underbody jack up points to safely lift rogue. I’ll be doing for the first time this summer. I checked the manual but it only shows the lifting points under side panels, but in your video you had the jack under the body. Please share some images displaying the jack up points. Secondly the Rogue manual says 4 quartz of oil and your response to the second last comment mentions 4.9quartz. Please clarify. Thank you.
1. On most cars you can always use the frame, which is a straight piece of steel that protrudes underneath the front half of the car to mate with the front wheel assembly. The lower suspension arm is also usable too, especially where it mates with the car body. I also have a rubber adapter to allow my regular Jack to interface with the “pinch point” of car body, where you otherwise would use the standard scissor Jack. 2. It’s 4.9 with an oil filter change - you can find all fluid capacities in the tech spec part of the manual too 😊 Hope this helps!
My problem with my Nissan Rogue is it feels like something is pulling the car back. It’s hard to explain. Like when you hit the gas pedal, it won’t accelerate like other cars.
This could be indicative of issues with the CVT, especially if you're feeling a "rubberband" type of effect. The CVT essentially has a metal band that mates two driveshafts, transferring energy, and is known to be a weak point (especially on acceleration issues). I have a CVT Fluid change video which would be worth considering! ua-cam.com/video/0Hlg_TiX5Ys/v-deo.html
Thank you, this is really logical, easy to follow video, and also quite stable(few "shaking") video ! Hopefully in the future, you can do brake pads changes. Thanks much !
The Mobile 1 oil filter says its good for 20K miles... Has good reviews compared to Fram, others. I bought 3 oil filters, one Fram, but the change is quite easy but not as easy as my Mercedes C-Class Coupe. I noticed the Mobile 1 recommended filters were slightly different at the seal so after putting on a new filter, I did manage to lose ALL THE NEW OIL on start due to improper fitting/tightening. Blew my mind because just 4000 miles earlier I did a proper oil change and tightening by hand. While I was quick to clean up all oil, somehow the new filter seal got dislodged so it stuck once I unscrewed the filter. I just went ahead and screwed on the old filter with only 4,000 miles. On my Benz, I replace my filter every 4000 miles and oil every 8000 miles. One Mobile 1 filter had a squared edge design, seemed snug to the filter where the other Mobile 1 filter was rounded so it actually fit better to the metal upon being lubed where connected. Hand tightening is best because it is a small filter for sure. Upon removal it is easy to remove by hand. All said, the owner of the car should learn to recognize the feel of the threading of the part and keep plenty of kitty litter around.
What you didn't see in the frame was the oil catch pan right below the filter. ;) And differences in filter design could be due to different manufacturers of the same brand (for instance, Wix can make whitelabel filters for Mobil 1 and other brands)
1.5 should be enough to get a jackstand under - ultimately if it's too weak, you'll find the jackstand will stop raising against the weight of the car. :)
Car runs perfectly - 0w20 is factory spec for this year of engine. While I know there were some tweaks to the QR25DE through the years (it’s a workhorse of Nissan and in a lot of their fleet) which imaginatively allows it to be more efficient/run thinner oil, I’d think you would be ok to try at least 5w20 for a test run to see if it runs ok. At the very least, you could also go 0w30 to help with cold starting.
Thanks man.@@MattStephensRich I will switch to a low viscocity 0w30 c2 for my next oil change. And if it goes well, I will switch to 0w20 for better fuel economy.
It’s an aggressive regiment, but also the Nissan recommended interval. 🤷 At least while the vehicle is in warranty, would recommend following the recommended OCI.
Ultimately boils down to the engine and what helps it run with best efficiency and wear profile. In general, a lot of manufacturers have migrated towards 5w20 to boost fuel economy and reduce engine drag.
I'm three months late but some helpful bit of knowledge, the 0W20 and 5w30 and whatnot is all about the thickness of the oil during certain temperatures. The oil will behave slightly differently during the summer compared to the winter due to the temperature differences, you may be able to tell a difference when you have different types side by side. This could affect how long the oil lasts, but mainly focuses on the gaskets of the oil system and how well it performs its job. Its not going to absolutely destroy an engine, but can have some affect if not caught at the proper time. Manufacture suggested should always be best - at the very least gives me the peace of mind that its done properly.
@@struckcomet Exactly right - the first number is the weight of the oil cold, and the later the weight hot. Ultimately focused on protecting the engine and balancing with fuel efficiency. Trust the engineers who built your car, and use manufacturer spec. :)
Definitely, if it's first time changing from factory, no way are you getting the oil filter off by hand. I think they use Thanos's glove to tighten them in factory. Tighter than tight... Lol
Double check that the oil filter has a good seal (such as wetting the gasket) and add some additional torque to the oil filter by hand. Also be sure to wipe down the oil filter of current leaked oil, so you can track if there is new oil coming out.
It's technically listed as 4 and ⅞ quarts; So .875 - a different of .1 quarts will not throw off this engine, and indeed reads within the fill line on the dip stick. :)
@@fernandoboss1740 Yes, but both serve the same *purpose*, to make sure the bolt does not seize. In which case, motor oil does a fantastic job of that. Notice that you don't really see anyone else using neverseize or anti-seize lubricants with oil changes. You're welcome to use it! But also recognize an oil drain plug with gasket actually does a great job both hold oil in, and coming undone when needed.
I always get a laugh when I watch a mechanic put on gloves like they're scared to get their hands dirty you're in the wrong profession if you're that prissy even if you are good at what you do
![[SAVE MONEY] Nissan Rogue 2.5L Oil and Filter Change | 2014 -2020 | QR25DE](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XMqFXyRlB0s/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey just a little tidbit that caused me some real issues with my 2019 Nissan Rogue sv. My car kept dying and I was having issues with all sorts of electrical features, like the lift gate wouldn't work all the time, nor would the key fob, automatic braking system, etc... I had a couple mechanics look at it after I couldn't figure it out, and nothing. Battery was good, everything came back as normal when I ran the codes as well. By miracle, I came across a random online article stating that the battery for this vehicle wasn't just a normal run of the mill battery. Because of all its fancy features, it requires a battery that gives it more juice. After getting the proper battery, my vehicle has ran like a champ!! Maybe this isn't news to anyone reading ,but I found thousands of ppl who had the same issues, and mechanics were unaware as well. Just thought I'd share in case it helps someone with a headache! It requires a 35-AGM. To be more specific, a DieHard Platinum AGM - Battery, Group Size 35, 650 CCA (Part No. 35-AGM)
Definitely a helpful flag!
Woah!! Of course no one at the dealership mentioned this detail. My husband and I just bought our Rogue a few months ago. No problems but checking for this immediately!
Thank you for the heads up
I'm having the same problem too with my 2018 SL (battery keeps dying). I was told by a good friend of mine to just change the original battery; reading your comment corroborates that for me. Thanks!
Look at that, bringing people together!
@@nakiabrown994 I can guarantee you that the correct battery I mentioned will work! I was so grateful it was just the battery! So happy to have helped!!
Good video. I like the fact that you mentioned that a 14mm socket was required for drain plug to give viewer a chance to prepare his/her tools. FYI: Prior to installing new filter, one should ALWAYS wipe the mating surface where oil filter sits on the adapter/engine block to ensure there isn't any FOC (Foreign Object Damage)... just proper work ethic :)
Glad it was helpful!
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No lié been working on cars for 18 years done maybe about 200 oil changes. I cleaned the mating surface of the oil filter housing maybe 5 out of 200 times. Never had a problem.
Sometimes that first oil filter is put on dry at the factory and they can be a real pain to get off. That happens with a lot of Chrysler owners. They sometimes drive a screw driver through it and use that to turn it. I have a rather weird looking pair of pliers for removing stuck oil filters. It WILL do some damage to the metal can but it gets them off anyhow. You can imagine we don't always need such an extreme tool. A large pair of channel lock pliers also works if you can open it enough and probably works just as well.
always handy!
Always wipe off the filter mount where the filter seal seats and the oil pan around the drain plug. People tend to overtighten the filters, which can cause a leak.
Good quality lighting and video stability, easy to watch.
TY for making video available.
Appreciate it! Definitely always a challenge to fight for light underneath the car.
Nice clear, people friendly video, and only what you need to get job done.
Thanks 👍
Great video, just a quick suggestion, if it wasn't mention yet, it's best to use a torque wrench to tighten screw. Too tight and you will need a new oil pan. For this car screw needs to be tighten between 22 and 29 ft-lb.
Good point and torque wrench is always best angle of measurement. I stick to the tried and true “hand tighten” method, especially for those without a torque wrench doing the job. 😊
@@MattStephensRichyup that's what I do as well
I just changed my oil in the 18 Rogue and 14 Altima. I torqued them to 27 ft lbs. it wouldn’t take much to strip the pan threads out. Definitely use a torque wrench. Great Video. Thanks for posting it.
@carljenkins5092 glad it helped!
Why wouldn't you use a new plug crush washer? Less than .50 cents and prevents little drips.
1) need to replace the gasket on the oil tank nut every time.
2) the nut torque is 25ft.lbs, better to use torque wrench to make it right.
nice video overal. thanks.
Yup, mentioned using a new crusher washer 🙂
Thanks! Really great video, simple, clear and concise.
Glad it was helpful!
Very Good video. Im about to change my friend oil and wasn't exactly sure how to reset the change oil light. Thank You
you bet!
Perfect! Getting ready to change oil tomorrow. Thanks for the Vid!!
Hope it helps!
Note: Check owner's manual for oil capacity! Some engines with a filter change use 4.75 quarts. The smaller engine may use 4 quarts.
good tip!
With filter 4.7q or 4.6 liters, not 4q lol 😂 QR25 engine I just did my friend and that is what the owner manual recommends
You should run the engine like a minute just to get all oil warmed up and drains faster and use a ramp will greatly be a good hepl
Good thought! I just use a simple jackstand rather than ramps as height is a bit limited in our garage due to storage. :)
You don't even need to jack it. There's enough clearance.
Pretty true; it doesn’t hurt to have a bit more clearance though, especially for filming.
Thank you! You gave an excellent explanation & made it easy to follow 👍🏼 Great video
hope it helped!
I prefer to use NEW oil to apply on the new oil filter gasket so....I don't cross contaminate the new oil. A oil filter wrench( designed to remove oil filters is a better removal tool. I know...to each his own. Lol. Otherwise...a good video.
Thank you
Tom
Great point! Ironically this filter is so small, current wrenches in my collection are too big.
What a stupid oil filter location. I told my friend I’d change theirs and I would have never found that. Thanks for this
Glad it helped!
You said some shops use an air wrench on the drain bolt. Sometimes they strip them accidentally and use a plastic insert. I stay the heck away from quick lube places for that exact reason. That is not the only reason I do it though, I pocket the difference that would have been used to pay for their labor and use it to help pay for synthetic oil. I like the Liqui Moly Special Tec AA 5w20. It is made specifically for direct injected engines to help prevent low speed preignition. I know there are a lot of products that make some really insane claims but Liqui Moly is one of the few companies that actually does what they say. It is a good German brand of motor oil and costs about the same as Mobil one. I was a Volkswagen owner and used it then and still do now. It is not just for German vehicles, anyone willing to spend the cash for synthetic oil could buy it. They also make a wide variety of additives. When I used it mom's Nissan Rogue she mentioned how hard it was to keep it down to 15 MPH in school zones. Ours is a 2017 Rogue Sport SV and it has the MR20DD which is direct injected. You would never guess that it has a factory rating of 141 HP. I am quite pleased it doesn't have the filter on the side. Some Toyotas have it on the side too and I have seen vids of guys taking tires off to get to it. That might be enough to make me trade the thing in!!
I’ve ultimately worked out a simple process to get at the oil filter, cranking the front tires all the way to the right. Ultimately not as bad as some other car designs.
@@MattStephensRich I don't own a Toyota, I just saw it and was thinking why would they do such a thing!! Surely there must have been a better place. The guy doing the change was older and although he said nothing about hating the design he didn't seem happy with it anyhow. I personally would have used it as part of an argument for the way some companies are anti repair!
@@charleshines8523 Just wait for my CVT oil change video, which has been a journey as (to your point) there's no dipstick provided with modern Rogues!
@@MattStephensRich Mine is like that too but at least they have the pipe. Some manufacturers are so bent on us buying a new vehicle they remove it to make it harder to do the change. They also make it crazy expensive (probably so no one ever gets it done).
Definitely annoyed at how hard it is to do these types of jobs that only took minutes in the past!
While I was shopping for the oil and filter to change I googled capacity for the oil and it said this:
The 2019 Nissan Rogue uses sae 0w-20 full synthetic oil. the 2.0l engine has a capacity of 4.1 quarts while the 2.5l can hold 4.9 quarts.
so it’s safe to assume you have a 2.0l engine in your Rogue since you put 4 quarts back in?
Also if you could do a video on changing the cabin filter?
Cabin air filter video is inbound.
This is actually the 2.5L engine; it's important to bear in-mind that you rarely drain the *full* oil capacity; there's often residual in different parts of the engine. Given Nissan's aggressive 5k drain interval, it's ok to have left over oil in the engine. :)
Thanks for the video. I was under the card and could not find the filter haha
Glad I could help!
Turn the wheel to the left and it opens up the whole area to get to it and makes it way easier than going under the vehicle.
Sometimes in a shop when they use an air wrench they ruin the plug hole threads. ALWAYS if you find they used some sort of insert make them pay for a NEW OEM pan!! We can't let them get away with that!! Of course my Volkswagen never goes to Iffy Lube or a similar quick oil change place. If you can do it yourself, pocket the difference and buy good synthetic oil.
Great video , thanks for the help !
Glad it helped!
Getting to the filter is a pain. You'll get some scratched up arms if you don't pull it back far enough.
Definitely not the best spot. I've actually resorted to using a longer mileage filter and pushing the filter two change cycles at a time to minimize need to go fishing lol
Wait until you see the newer models 2021_2023 18 plastic clips and 2 bolts to remove just to get to splash guard for oil change ☹️
Perfect video…I have the same vehicle..using the exact same oil and filter. 😜 Well done!
glad it was helpful!
Hello Matt, some of the videos on UA-cam suggest
1. putting new oil in the new oil filter before putting it on the car.
2. Open the oil cap and dip stick to avoid creating vacuum while draining.
3. Drain overnight.
Are these good practice law and does it make any difference?
Good questions all around!
I humbly submit that while all are certainly not bad steps (and good to do if you have the time!), they do not fundamentally change the difference of quality of job.
Thank for the great explanation!
I just changed the oil in my Rogue today thanks to your video!
One question: Where did you lift up the car with your jack?
Glad to hear it! For jacking, the easiest approach on any car is to mount along the steel frame underneath the car.
Thank you for the detailed explanation. That helps a lot. I have a startup question. I need to know the underbody jack up points to safely lift rogue. I’ll be doing for the first time this summer. I checked the manual but it only shows the lifting points under side panels, but in your video you had the jack under the body. Please share some images displaying the jack up points. Secondly the Rogue manual says 4 quartz of oil and your response to the second last comment mentions 4.9quartz. Please clarify. Thank you.
1. On most cars you can always use the frame, which is a straight piece of steel that protrudes underneath the front half of the car to mate with the front wheel assembly. The lower suspension arm is also usable too, especially where it mates with the car body. I also have a rubber adapter to allow my regular Jack to interface with the “pinch point” of car body, where you otherwise would use the standard scissor Jack.
2. It’s 4.9 with an oil filter change - you can find all fluid capacities in the tech spec part of the manual too 😊
Hope this helps!
@@MattStephensRich appreciate you response. Once again thanks for the detailed video. It’s indeed very useful.
Thanks for such a detailed video! This will be super helpful when we change our oil ourselves 😁
Glad to hear it!
You make real good tutorial videos. Thanks.
glad they help!
My problem with my Nissan Rogue is it feels like something is pulling the car back. It’s hard to explain. Like when you hit the gas pedal, it won’t accelerate like other cars.
This could be indicative of issues with the CVT, especially if you're feeling a "rubberband" type of effect. The CVT essentially has a metal band that mates two driveshafts, transferring energy, and is known to be a weak point (especially on acceleration issues). I have a CVT Fluid change video which would be worth considering! ua-cam.com/video/0Hlg_TiX5Ys/v-deo.html
@@MattStephensRich do you have a video of how to replace the coolant for this nissan rogue? 😂😂
Very well done and explained. Thank yuo very much.
Glad it was helpful!
Well done Matt..
You bet!
So what exactly is the difference between the Mobil oil you're using and Mobil1?
Are you talking about the oil filter? It was the one on sale at the store. 😅
Great video thanks
Glad it helped!
Thank you, this is really logical, easy to follow video, and also quite stable(few "shaking") video ! Hopefully in the future, you can do brake pads changes. Thanks much !
Indeed have one in the works!
Aren't you supposed to change the crush washer on the oil plug after every oil change?
Yup!
That's the most Manly oil filter wrench I've ever seen!
Ha!
Does anyone know how many teeth are on the oil filter? I need to buy an oil filter wrench and don't know which size to buy. Thanks
You’d be ok to go with the “small” size - this is a small filter
Thank you Matt for the video
You bet!
Your video was very helpful.
Glad it helped!
And always replace the crush washer on the drain plug
Yup I shout that out ☺️
Your actually should add new oil to filter to help motor pump new oil properly
It doesn’t hurt, but also isn’t required. If it were, it would be directed in manufacturer manuals. 😉
Is that the first part of the car where the old pan and the old filler is located.
Yes? Or at least, you would be draining oil from under the engine, in front.
The Mobile 1 oil filter says its good for 20K miles... Has good reviews compared to Fram, others. I bought 3 oil filters, one Fram, but the change is quite easy but not as easy as my Mercedes C-Class Coupe.
I noticed the Mobile 1 recommended filters were slightly different at the seal so after putting on a new filter, I did manage to lose ALL THE NEW OIL on start due to improper fitting/tightening. Blew my mind because just 4000 miles earlier I did a proper oil change and tightening by hand.
While I was quick to clean up all oil, somehow the new filter seal got dislodged so it stuck once I unscrewed the filter. I just went ahead and screwed on the old filter with only 4,000 miles. On my Benz, I replace my filter every 4000 miles and oil every 8000 miles.
One Mobile 1 filter had a squared edge design, seemed snug to the filter where the other Mobile 1 filter was rounded so it actually fit better to the metal upon being lubed where connected. Hand tightening is best because it is a small filter for sure. Upon removal it is easy to remove by hand.
All said, the owner of the car should learn to recognize the feel of the threading of the part and keep plenty of kitty litter around.
What you didn't see in the frame was the oil catch pan right below the filter. ;) And differences in filter design could be due to different manufacturers of the same brand (for instance, Wix can make whitelabel filters for Mobil 1 and other brands)
Great video btw! Needed to find the filter! hahaha
Glad I could help!
How much add oil in liters with filters replacement also, please let me know
It’s conveniently listed in your owners manual! 4 quarts
Would I be ok using a 1.5ton jack to a wheel up a little for putting a jackstand..then lifting the otherside? Or would I need a heftier jack?
1.5 should be enough to get a jackstand under - ultimately if it's too weak, you'll find the jackstand will stop raising against the weight of the car. :)
Great video
Glad it helped!
Hi. Did you replace the sump plug washer with a new one when you changed the oil?
Kept the same on this one, which is a standard rubber plug
Thanks buddy @@MattStephensRich
Thanks, for this video. It would be a good idea if you don't wear any jewelry/watch when working on your car.
But how will I tell how much time I've wasted!? 😅
It takes 4.9 qts my Nissan mechanic told me that!
Yup detailed in the manual!
Thank you!
You bet!
That oil filter is the same as the Toro engine on SS 4225..
Good tip!
Does this car have the fuel filter in fuel tank ?
Yes - no replaceable fuel filter in the maintenance schedule!
@@MattStephensRich i think this can destroy the pump if some dirt come in
@@useribp usually they have a mesh screen for filtering. In-tank pumps/filters are pretty common place these days.
How does the car feel using 0w20? My QR25DE engine currently runs with 5w-30 and I wonder if I can switch to 20.
Car runs perfectly - 0w20 is factory spec for this year of engine. While I know there were some tweaks to the QR25DE through the years (it’s a workhorse of Nissan and in a lot of their fleet) which imaginatively allows it to be more efficient/run thinner oil, I’d think you would be ok to try at least 5w20 for a test run to see if it runs ok. At the very least, you could also go 0w30 to help with cold starting.
Thanks man.@@MattStephensRich I will switch to a low viscocity 0w30 c2 for my next oil change. And if it goes well, I will switch to 0w20 for better fuel economy.
0W20 only comes in full synthetic
Full synthetic oil can go up to 10.000 miles. Why 5000 miles oil change? pure OCD.
It’s an aggressive regiment, but also the Nissan recommended interval. 🤷 At least while the vehicle is in warranty, would recommend following the recommended OCI.
Good insight!
What number oil filter for 2014 nissan rogue?
PH6607 on the oil filter lookup (using Fram) 😊
I have a 14’ but it says to use 5-30, but I know others that use the 0-20. What’s with all the variety? Just wondering
Ultimately boils down to the engine and what helps it run with best efficiency and wear profile. In general, a lot of manufacturers have migrated towards 5w20 to boost fuel economy and reduce engine drag.
I'm three months late but some helpful bit of knowledge, the 0W20 and 5w30 and whatnot is all about the thickness of the oil during certain temperatures. The oil will behave slightly differently during the summer compared to the winter due to the temperature differences, you may be able to tell a difference when you have different types side by side. This could affect how long the oil lasts, but mainly focuses on the gaskets of the oil system and how well it performs its job. Its not going to absolutely destroy an engine, but can have some affect if not caught at the proper time. Manufacture suggested should always be best - at the very least gives me the peace of mind that its done properly.
@@struckcomet Exactly right - the first number is the weight of the oil cold, and the later the weight hot. Ultimately focused on protecting the engine and balancing with fuel efficiency. Trust the engineers who built your car, and use manufacturer spec. :)
0w-20 for synthetic 5w-30 for conventional
Rogue is 4.9 quarts?
Correct for the 2.5L!
Definitely, if it's first time changing from factory, no way are you getting the oil filter off by hand. I think they use Thanos's glove to tighten them in factory. Tighter than tight... Lol
Yeahhh, have resorted to using a stabbed screwdriver or other methods to coax if needed!
I got an older Nissan Rogue that won't stop leaking at the oil filter. Any ideas?
Double check that the oil filter has a good seal (such as wetting the gasket) and add some additional torque to the oil filter by hand. Also be sure to wipe down the oil filter of current leaked oil, so you can track if there is new oil coming out.
why do you wear a watch when you do oil change lol
Guess I just never take it off 😅
2020 rogue takes 4.9 quarts
It's technically listed as 4 and ⅞ quarts; So .875 - a different of .1 quarts will not throw off this engine, and indeed reads within the fill line on the dip stick. :)
If it’s a 2.5 engine it need 4.7
Hmm, manual actually shows 4 quarts if replacing filter, 3.75 if not replacing filter.
I would not buy just any filter on sale. I would never buy Fram (even though they are overpriced garbage).
Good thing I used Mobil1. 😜
Next time put neverseize on threads
motor oil does the same lubricating job. :)
@@MattStephensRich no it does not buddy two different chemicals
@@fernandoboss1740 Yes, but both serve the same *purpose*, to make sure the bolt does not seize. In which case, motor oil does a fantastic job of that. Notice that you don't really see anyone else using neverseize or anti-seize lubricants with oil changes.
You're welcome to use it! But also recognize an oil drain plug with gasket actually does a great job both hold oil in, and coming undone when needed.
@@MattStephensRich ok if that's what you think go for it ... but your totally wrong good luck
dont really need to
I always get a laugh when I watch a mechanic put on gloves like they're scared to get their hands dirty you're in the wrong profession if you're that prissy even if you are good at what you do
I mean to be fair, used motor oil is a known carcinogen. 😅
I always get a laugh when I hear a keyboard warrior critique someone helping others when they probably haven’t done the job themselves