Hi Sir, I was wondering if you were able to get a part number off the suction hose that goes from the reservoir to the pump, or if you knew where to find another one online?
Solid steel lines are custom made at hydraulic shops. If you have a small hole in one, take it off, blow air through it, wipe the outside of the pipe down with soap and water, use a welder and weld a ring or three around the hole to carbonize the oil on the inside, and when the pipe stops smoking, weld over the hole. If crushed, you can cut off the bad part, clean the pipe, cut an equivalent length, put the pipe back on the tractor and tack weld it, take it back off and take it to a professional welder. Taking the entire tractor to the hydraulic shop will give you the best result.
Hello I have bought 550,year 83. I am new to them and just wanted to lnow a few things about it since i have no manuel. Does the hidraulic fluid lubricate the whole system like the breaks,gearbox etc or for each compotent theres different oil to be used? Do you fill hidraulic fluid only in the hid.tank and the pump moves it all to the system or theres other caps on the traktor where the hidro.fluid goes separately? What hidro fluid it needs or is it just about any hidro fluid that can be used on it?also what kind of engine oil should be used on it?
The engine oil is the easiest to answer. You want 10-W30 in the winter with a new engine, add 10 to the 30 if it is a hot summer and another 10 if the engine is old and smoking a bit. Same with hydraulic, use 45 if you are near the equator and 32 anywhere else. Most any tractor with a shuttle clutch uses hydraulic-transmission oil with the 1960 John Deer running 32 in transmission and the Massy Fergason running 90 but I put 62 in my Massy. I put 45 hydraulic-transmission oil in my Ford 555 shuttle clutch reservoir under the steering wheel but another 555 might need a different oil. Gear shift, use 90 weight (no synthetic) gear oil in all gear shifts unless otherwise specified.
Good evening sir, I have found lately that I've been having issues with my hydraulics. To the point where I can only run one stick at a time. I wanted to replace the fluids totally but when I "drained the system" per the manual I only got about 7 gallons out of roughly 23 i think it was. I undid the high pressure hoses feeding the hydraulic filter as well. Do you have any recommendations for my next steps? Trying to get my hydraulics back to normal and any information will help!
Start from your manual. If nothing found on both (1)Filters and (2)Screens, then start from your hydraulic pump and work backwards. I have already shown that a screen filter can be found under the reservoir, now keep going backwards, following the hydraulic lines. The old 1950's equipment may not even have filter of any kind on them, however, the newer the machine the more inventive engineers get when it comes to finding new places to put the filters with extra plumbing that allows a filter to be moved to any location.
My hydraulic tank only holds 5 gallons. The diesel tank behind and closer to the drivers seat hold 23 gallons of diesel. As for hydraulic controls, the ford has only one hydraulic pump and is only made to move one hydraulic cylinder at a time unless you cheat and move one partially as you move another. Does it leak hydraulic oil? Does it work fine for a few minutes and then slow down? Is a part of it not working at all? Does it make noise?
The Ford 555 is a 3-cylinder about 64hp and this one came with a backhoe attached. The 555 was a turning point in the 1970's and made a benchmark for all to follow. That said it is 50 years old and falling apart. The front-end loader beats anything out today with the same hp and if you find one expect to be fixing it the entire time you own it, and it is worth the work. It doesn't cut through sandstone well, but for ditches and other things it is tops. If you are buying new, I wouldn't recommend a John deer or Kabuto. New john deer's are designed to fail every three years and Kabuto is too small and only two sizes of their tractors match the front loader size to the tractor. For a backhoe, size matters, if it's not 14K pounds (about 6 metric tons) it just doesn't have the ass to do any real work. Case and JCB seam to have the best out, but Cat will fool you every once in a while. PS, my neighbor had a 12K pound mini excavator and a skid steer and ran circles around nearly anything a backhoe can do.
The front and back are connected. If the front lifts then the pump and filters are fine. There are pins that connect handles to the cylinder controls and they fall out quite often and if not used in many years, cylinder controls can rust tight and spraying with WD40 or some other rust breaking oil and work them back and forth until they start working smooth again.
I think the best is a standard oil filter off the return line. You don't have to drain your tank, it can be put in a convenient to get to location, and the filter cartridges are cheaper by the mass production. I think under the tank is a cheap fix.
Hi Sir, I was wondering if you were able to get a part number off the suction hose that goes from the reservoir to the pump, or if you knew where to find another one online?
Solid steel lines are custom made at hydraulic shops. If you have a small hole in one, take it off, blow air through it, wipe the outside of the pipe down with soap and water, use a welder and weld a ring or three around the hole to carbonize the oil on the inside, and when the pipe stops smoking, weld over the hole. If crushed, you can cut off the bad part, clean the pipe, cut an equivalent length, put the pipe back on the tractor and tack weld it, take it back off and take it to a professional welder. Taking the entire tractor to the hydraulic shop will give you the best result.
Hello
I have bought 550,year 83.
I am new to them and just wanted to lnow a few things about it since i have no manuel.
Does the hidraulic fluid lubricate the whole system like the breaks,gearbox etc or for each compotent theres different oil to be used?
Do you fill hidraulic fluid only in the hid.tank and the pump moves it all to the system or theres other caps on the traktor where the hidro.fluid goes separately?
What hidro fluid it needs or is it just about any hidro fluid that can be used on it?also what kind of engine oil should be used on it?
The engine oil is the easiest to answer. You want 10-W30 in the winter with a new engine, add 10 to the 30 if it is a hot summer and another 10 if the engine is old and smoking a bit. Same with hydraulic, use 45 if you are near the equator and 32 anywhere else. Most any tractor with a shuttle clutch uses hydraulic-transmission oil with the 1960 John Deer running 32 in transmission and the Massy Fergason running 90 but I put 62 in my Massy. I put 45 hydraulic-transmission oil in my Ford 555 shuttle clutch reservoir under the steering wheel but another 555 might need a different oil. Gear shift, use 90 weight (no synthetic) gear oil in all gear shifts unless otherwise specified.
Please fully operate it
Good evening sir, I have found lately that I've been having issues with my hydraulics. To the point where I can only run one stick at a time. I wanted to replace the fluids totally but when I "drained the system" per the manual I only got about 7 gallons out of roughly 23 i think it was. I undid the high pressure hoses feeding the hydraulic filter as well. Do you have any recommendations for my next steps? Trying to get my hydraulics back to normal and any information will help!
Start from your manual. If nothing found on both (1)Filters and (2)Screens, then start from your hydraulic pump and work backwards. I have already shown that a screen filter can be found under the reservoir, now keep going backwards, following the hydraulic lines. The old 1950's equipment may not even have filter of any kind on them, however, the newer the machine the more inventive engineers get when it comes to finding new places to put the filters with extra plumbing that allows a filter to be moved to any location.
@@martinsoos thank you for the information I will work on that! I have an '86 555
My hydraulic tank only holds 5 gallons. The diesel tank behind and closer to the drivers seat hold 23 gallons of diesel. As for hydraulic controls, the ford has only one hydraulic pump and is only made to move one hydraulic cylinder at a time unless you cheat and move one partially as you move another. Does it leak hydraulic oil? Does it work fine for a few minutes and then slow down? Is a part of it not working at all? Does it make noise?
Hi. Could you please share your experience with this model? What your opinion on it ?
Knowing it's an old machine.
Thanks in advance
The Ford 555 is a 3-cylinder about 64hp and this one came with a backhoe attached. The 555 was a turning point in the 1970's and made a benchmark for all to follow. That said it is 50 years old and falling apart. The front-end loader beats anything out today with the same hp and if you find one expect to be fixing it the entire time you own it, and it is worth the work. It doesn't cut through sandstone well, but for ditches and other things it is tops. If you are buying new, I wouldn't recommend a John deer or Kabuto. New john deer's are designed to fail every three years and Kabuto is too small and only two sizes of their tractors match the front loader size to the tractor. For a backhoe, size matters, if it's not 14K pounds (about 6 metric tons) it just doesn't have the ass to do any real work. Case and JCB seam to have the best out, but Cat will fool you every once in a while.
PS, my neighbor had a 12K pound mini excavator and a skid steer and ran circles around nearly anything a backhoe can do.
Thanks for your detailed answer.
I am from Pakistan my backhoe 555 hole hydrologic system of back part not work . May you help me about it
The front and back are connected. If the front lifts then the pump and filters are fine. There are pins that connect handles to the cylinder controls and they fall out quite often and if not used in many years, cylinder controls can rust tight and spraying with WD40 or some other rust breaking oil and work them back and forth until they start working smooth again.
This video showing the screen in tank is worth it's weight in gold to me. It's logical to be there, still... whudathinkit?
I think the best is a standard oil filter off the return line. You don't have to drain your tank, it can be put in a convenient to get to location, and the filter cartridges are cheaper by the mass production. I think under the tank is a cheap fix.
PS, welcome to the channel
Can you help me sir
Should Grease the Universals While your in there