A great video on long exposures, it's a tricky one to explain well. I really like my TLR for long exposures, the convenience of leaving the filter on whilst viewing the scene is nice. I typically go for a nd6 filter which doesn't smooth out the water as much, it's all personal preference though.
I love how you find such nice and simple compositions. I've always struggled with it. I make a preview shot on my iPhone and normally I think like "naaah, this is too ordinary to shoot" and don't make a picture. Trying to make something special. Later, while looking through the previews I often regret that I didn't take those "ordinary" pictures. 😂😂😂
For me composition is about using your brain to see the image before you even look through the viewfinder, go in close with a wide angle, that alone changes perspective, back out and try a standard lens...you have to mix it up to find the shot.
Most of the low compositions I didn't look through the viewfinder for. You can tell that as the low one on the sand missed the top of the wood. But it came out okay. I guess the answer is don't think too much about it. If you see something just take the picture. (Within Reason). I shot a video a few weeks back where I was trying out a new camera. I had a few shots left on the film and I walked up to some stairs and took a photo. It was only when I printed it It actually looked quite cool.
Hi Roger! Greetings from Hungary! I have recently started shooting black and white film and darkroom printing. So far I have shot only 35 mm films and made 10x15 cm prints without contrast filters, because it was easy to learn and cheap. I always watch your videos. I can learn a lot from them and they are a great inspiration. Thank you and keep up the good work! Cheers!
Thanks for taking that lovely shot of my fellow countrymen. Your "sziasztok" was excellent, you are quite good at pronounciation :) Keep up the good work. Greetings from Budapest, Hungary Szia :)
A fantastic video, been shooting with filters for ages and when I started sifting through all the videos out there none come close to how easy you have made it to understand. The best touch was showing the calculator when adding the film factors in for reciprocity failure.
A tricky subject that you explained very well. Some really good photos there too. Thanks. Some of these new variable density ND filters, which are available from outlets that don't pay much tax are actually quite good. They are worth a try, and they are fun if not exactly cheap.
Thanks Lensman. That one I have was only about £10. I just use it for a bit of fun. I have another 72mm 3 stop filter that cost me a few quid. That was for my digital camera. Canon 7D. It don't fit any of my film cameras. Need to adopt Martins method!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Quite so. I think that if one is only shooting B&W, the cheap ones are adequate. With digital and colour film photography, the colourshift is the main culprit. Multicoating also helps keeping the secondary reflections at bay.
I’ve been shooting a fair amount of 4x5 pinhole with a home made large format pinhole camera and a custom laser cut aperture I bought on eBay. I’ve been using TMAX 400 with it. It comes out to f/128 with the aperture and distance from the film plane. It’s not particularly sharp compared to a real 4x5 with an actual lens, but it’s not bad at all.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss they’re pretty easy to make once you have a film holder and aperture. I built mine out of a couple pieces of hobby wood, black foam board and gaffers tape. I use Velcro straps to hold the film holder in place. It looks pretty low rent, but turns out pretty good total resolution. Not as good as an actual 4x5 with a lens, but easily as good as or better than 35mm with a lens. That 4x5 film area makes up for a lot of softness.
"Friends, friends!" from Inbetweeners got me 😆 brings back memories when I was in 6th form. Also glad I am not the only one that dances manically in the darkroom with music 🤣 Some really lovely photos Roger, curious about your technique for developing the Ortho with 510 Pyro?
Normal way James. 1:100, 14 mins this time instead of 15.... 1min inversions start and then another inversion after 10 mins. Water stop, Ilford Fix. I'm getting curious about bringing that down to 12 mins. Which is what I'll do next time.
Great video... u might consider using the "LEE Filters - Stopper Exposure" free app for 6 stop, 10 stop , and 15 stop ND filters exposure adjustment...very quick and intuitive... they do have some nice reciprocity apps also in case u decide to give up the chart.
Long exposures, that’s the stuff I like. My record is 8:30min (without counting the stress of failing). Never really be problem or mistake, except when I put the wrong filter or even forget it… I use a cheap filter, it gets the job done, but I’m looking at systems like nisi or lee, because I use several lenses and of course, they have different sizes, which means, too many circular filters. For reciprocity failure, I use the app called reciprocity on my phone. You just need to choose your film, the measured exposure, you can add info like bellows, tube extensions, filters. Never had a bad result, but I tend to overexpose about 1 stop eveytime, it’s B&W it can handle it very easily.
Hello Roger, Great video and just what I need to learn “reciprocity!” I am new to film but have used digital for over 10 years; so I have the basics down pat. I am curious about three things you noted in this video. 1). On the Ilford sheet you chose FP4+ when you said you were using Ortho Plus 4 - why did you choose FP4+ (is that a short name for Ortho Plus 4)? 2) Then you said you created a cheat sheet with the Ortho settings but I can’t see what you have on the sheet so I do not know what you included on your cheat sheet. 3). Lastly, you determined with a 10-stop ND that you needed to add an additional 8 seconds and you needed to calculate the reciprocity for meter reading. How did you come up with needing an additional 8 seconds of exposure time? Roger, I would be happy to buy you 2 cups of coffee if you could answer those three questions! It really does sound pretty easy I just needed a bit of clarification and I will be able to do long exposure - ya hoo! thanks in advance for the help if you are still able to reply.
Hi mate. It's a while ago this video so can't really remember as well as you have seen. Otho 80 and FP4 are two totally different films. On the Ilford Website and for all the films they make they have a downloadable data sheet with the reciprocity failures. So if you want to do long exposures past 1 second you need to try and find the information for that film. Fuji Acros II is the only film I know that reciprocity doesn't kick in for up to 2 minutes. So that is an ideal film for it. Fomapan Films have rediculous reciprocity fails so stick with Ilford as Acros II is expensive. For Long exposures go with FP4 and download the data sheet. You can download it here www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1919/product/686/ You'll see the reciprocity chart. If your metered time is 10s it suggests appx 19s exposure. No need for a coffee. Just happy to help.
Could you please do a video on how to do the darkroom dance? I'd like to prepare and practice for when the Intrepid Enlarger ships, but have no idea where to start.
Great video and wonderful pictures. I wish I was also so fast at the sea. I have not found anything in a hurry. How do you dry your pictures? I'm building a darkroom and that's the last thing to go.
Thanks, your videos are always enjoyable!! About the light leaks: Don't you think those come from the view finder? With the 10 stop ND filter, the light coming in through the viewfinder is 1000 times stronger than what's coming in from the lens and that's a problem. Maybe covering the viewfinder with a piece of gaffer tape will fix the problem.
Great images. Question: in the end of video I notice you are standing in front of 4 photographs on the wall. Bottom right corner of all 4 pictures looks to be some sort of emblem. What is it and could you explain/show? Ty
Best video on long exposure on film I've seen so far! I would have a question. Don't you need the mirror lock-up function for long exposure on film as you do on digital? I've only shoot digital so far and I would like to try film. I see that many 35mm slr don't have MLU or they have it coupled with the self-timer and, I guess, you can't use it in Bulb mode. Maybe 35mm isn't as sensitive as a CMOS sensor. Many 120mm cameras have MLU though. Thanks!
Thanks Salvatore. Yes if you can lock the mirror up it is an added security but I've yet to see a long exposure of mine ruined by having no mirror lock up. In fact, I've never seen an issue when shooting digital long exposures either. Have you?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I've always shot long exposures in live-view as my basic dslr doesn't have MLU. I believe in digital MLU is fundamental as sensors are way more sensitive than film. Surely it's more important for macro than for landscapes. I have to give it a try. Thanks ;-)
I see. I think if I turned the easel around and did my 10x8 that way. As long as I've enough white border around the print area for framing then you can cut the excess off.
If your exposures are longer then the films reciprocity limit then yes you will need to account for that. Usually most films reciprocity kicks in after 1 second metered exposure.
Do you ever scan your negatives? I would like to get into developing film but I do not have any room for a dark room. I thought maybe I can develop the negative then scan the negative and work with it further in Photoshop.
Of course Wilmar. I scan for reference and also to show the images that I don't print on my videos. I use my DSLR to "scan" my negs. Nothing wrong in shooting film and scanning the negs and printing on inkjet.
Sorry rappier, but what does that mean? Reciprocity failure is just the chemicals in the emulsion becoming less reactive the longer they are exposed to light. Its a sliding scale of diminishing reactivity.
@@iainmc9859 It's rappLer with an L and I think you're confused. Reciprocity is a function of the intensity of light reaching the film plane. In any case, it is one of the few cases of 'broken symmetry' in film vs digital photography. The shot noise incurred in long digital exposures is the price paid for not having digital reciprocity failure. Long film exposures don't get 'noisier' but instead have to contend with more motion blur due to the longer exposure times. But that's the desired effect 99% of the time anyway.
@@rappler32 Apologies about the misspelling rappler32. High intensity of light doesn't cause reciprocity failure, other than the chemistry on the emulsion becoming exhausted and unable to continue to react at the same intensity, which is the same as a lesser exposure to light over a longer period. I agree that there is no symmetry between grain in film and noise in digital, as film grain is about reaction of silver halides and digital iso is just about brightening the pixels (and not changing the sensitivity of the sensor), if that's what you mean? I don't think adding motion blur into the equation, even though the images in the vlog were of sea and clouds, has anything to do with reciprocity failure as the chemicals reacts no matter what the camera is pointed at. Can we agree that the chemicals on the emulsion become exhausted in reacting to light and their reactivity diminishes over a longer period of exposure? If we can't agree on that then we're singing from different hymnbook, metaphorically :-)
@@rappler32 I might not understand the physics of it but I do understand the chemistry of reactive potential. Maybe if you can explain, without divergence, how you think chemicals in film emulsion react to light in your world. In mine there is a swift reaction which then drops off in a gradual slope (this is where balancing your aperture and shutter speed can give the same exposure value for different settings), over longer exposures this becomes a more shallow curve, hence the need to extend your exposure time; commonly called 'reciprocity failure', before bottoming out, I can't make this any easier for you without drawing a picture. I won't bother to respond unless you can expand your 'physics' theory in logical terms rather than just dismissal.
Don't get wellies. Get yourself a pair of Japanese riding boots (thongs, slaps, flip flops, whatever you want to call them) and wear them. Won't matter if you get your feet wet, then :D
If you are using your tripod on wet sand I've heard that having 3 cd's / dvd's to put under the legs works great.
Roger is a Retro Shooter. He'll have to use vintage film reels.
Mayonnaise jar lids. You have to eat a lot of mayonnaise though.
@@woodedape 45 RPM vinyl records :D
Or one laser disc?
@@RCAvhstape But cd's have a handy hole in the middle to keep the legs steady.
hahah love the darkroom dance XD
A great video on long exposures, it's a tricky one to explain well. I really like my TLR for long exposures, the convenience of leaving the filter on whilst viewing the scene is nice. I typically go for a nd6 filter which doesn't smooth out the water as much, it's all personal preference though.
I love how you find such nice and simple compositions. I've always struggled with it. I make a preview shot on my iPhone and normally I think like "naaah, this is too ordinary to shoot" and don't make a picture. Trying to make something special. Later, while looking through the previews I often regret that I didn't take those "ordinary" pictures. 😂😂😂
For me composition is about using your brain to see the image before you even look through the viewfinder, go in close with a wide angle, that alone changes perspective, back out and try a standard lens...you have to mix it up to find the shot.
Most of the low compositions I didn't look through the viewfinder for. You can tell that as the low one on the sand missed the top of the wood. But it came out okay. I guess the answer is don't think too much about it. If you see something just take the picture. (Within Reason). I shot a video a few weeks back where I was trying out a new camera. I had a few shots left on the film and I walked up to some stairs and took a photo. It was only when I printed it It actually looked quite cool.
Great as usual!- get some wellies!
Love the channel bud!!
This episode took me back, we used to go to that boozer on family holidays mid 90s.
Got lots of family down that way!
learned something new again, you truly are the "LORD OF THE LENS" !
Hi boss, long time out so now playing catch up. Enjoyed the video... like the prints.....darkroom shuffle 🤭 jury's out on that 1.
Translate this (hungarian) : magyar lengyel két jó barát. Best regards from Poland.
12:22 great composition 🎉
Thanks
Town Roger, reciprocitown 😂. Nice darkroom moves 👍
i love the first photo of the seascape too.
Hi, once again, thank's. it was somethig I Was afraid with. Now, I have understood ! Regards from France
Hi Roger! Greetings from Hungary! I have recently started shooting black and white film and darkroom printing. So far I have shot only 35 mm films and made 10x15 cm prints without contrast filters, because it was easy to learn and cheap. I always watch your videos. I can learn a lot from them and they are a great inspiration. Thank you and keep up the good work! Cheers!
Thank You!
Hey, wellies. It's just about sandal season now.
I can't win LOL
You explained the process to figure long exposures and reciprocity nicely! I'm going to have to give it a try!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for taking that lovely shot of my fellow countrymen. Your "sziasztok" was excellent, you are quite good at pronounciation :)
Keep up the good work.
Greetings from Budapest, Hungary
Szia :)
Get some wellies! Great video as usual Roger and the ‘darkroom dance’ makes it!
Thanks 👍
A fantastic video, been shooting with filters for ages and when I started sifting through all the videos out there none come close to how easy you have made it to understand. The best touch was showing the calculator when adding the film factors in for reciprocity failure.
Cheers Luca. Glad it came across that way
prints came out great
Thanks Vaughn
Thank you for the great video! Am just starting with film… it’s a bit of a mind field… hoping to try long exposure…🤞
Great video on the subject & good developer choice, 510 Pyro is giving me really really good results too
Thanks 👍
Nice Roger
I have not done one yet but will try and will share it on Instagram
Great video! Thank you a lot!
I just love your videos
Cheers Felix.
always making friends!
LOL
Great vlog Roger. Enjoyed as always. Saying reciprocity always gave me trouble too.
Tell me about it
Brilliant! Dark room dance!
excellent work excellent work!!
Thankyou!
Excellent story, Roger!
There's an Ilford reciprocity calculator app for Android phones.
A tricky subject that you explained very well. Some really good photos there too. Thanks. Some of these new variable density ND filters, which are available from outlets that don't pay much tax are actually quite good. They are worth a try, and they are fun if not exactly cheap.
Thanks Lensman. That one I have was only about £10. I just use it for a bit of fun. I have another 72mm 3 stop filter that cost me a few quid. That was for my digital camera. Canon 7D. It don't fit any of my film cameras. Need to adopt Martins method!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Quite so. I think that if one is only shooting B&W, the cheap ones are adequate. With digital and colour film photography, the colourshift is the main culprit. Multicoating also helps keeping the secondary reflections at bay.
Great job Roger! I'm inspired to do time exposures.
Cheers. It's a nice break away from regular photos
This is Exactly what I needed to know. Thankyou.
I do dig long exposures of water!!!
Great video. Fun and informative. Thank you!
Cheers Jerry
Cracking prints Rog!
Thanks Michael
Next concert Phil¡¡¡¡ Cheers..
I’ve been shooting a fair amount of 4x5 pinhole with a home made large format pinhole camera and a custom laser cut aperture I bought on eBay. I’ve been using TMAX 400 with it. It comes out to f/128 with the aperture and distance from the film plane. It’s not particularly sharp compared to a real 4x5 with an actual lens, but it’s not bad at all.
Yes pinhole is not as sharp as glass. It's a unique look. I'd like to get a 4x5 pinhole and contact print.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss they’re pretty easy to make once you have a film holder and aperture. I built mine out of a couple pieces of hobby wood, black foam board and gaffers tape. I use Velcro straps to hold the film holder in place. It looks pretty low rent, but turns out pretty good total resolution. Not as good as an actual 4x5 with a lens, but easily as good as or better than 35mm with a lens. That 4x5 film area makes up for a lot of softness.
Great shots!
Cheers Gianni
Great job!
A TLR would work well with this technique. One could compose and focus with an ND filter already on the taking lens.
"Friends, friends!" from Inbetweeners got me 😆 brings back memories when I was in 6th form. Also glad I am not the only one that dances manically in the darkroom with music 🤣
Some really lovely photos Roger, curious about your technique for developing the Ortho with 510 Pyro?
Normal way James. 1:100, 14 mins this time instead of 15.... 1min inversions start and then another inversion after 10 mins. Water stop, Ilford Fix. I'm getting curious about bringing that down to 12 mins. Which is what I'll do next time.
Great video... u might consider using the "LEE Filters - Stopper Exposure" free app for 6 stop, 10 stop , and 15 stop ND filters exposure adjustment...very quick and intuitive... they do have some nice reciprocity apps also in case u decide to give up the chart.
15! I didn't know that existed.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Lee filters calls it their Super Stopper
Long exposures, that’s the stuff I like. My record is 8:30min (without counting the stress of failing). Never really be problem or mistake, except when I put the wrong filter or even forget it… I use a cheap filter, it gets the job done, but I’m looking at systems like nisi or lee, because I use several lenses and of course, they have different sizes, which means, too many circular filters. For reciprocity failure, I use the app called reciprocity on my phone. You just need to choose your film, the measured exposure, you can add info like bellows, tube extensions, filters. Never had a bad result, but I tend to overexpose about 1 stop eveytime, it’s B&W it can handle it very easily.
Thanks Max. My record is 8 hours star gazing on HP5 and a Holga LOL.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I forgot ! I used a pinhole (a solarcan) and recorded a 6-months picture :D
this is like all I do, like me some long exposure
Hello Roger, Great video and just what I need to learn “reciprocity!” I am new to film but have used digital for over 10 years; so I have the basics down pat. I am curious about three things you noted in this video. 1). On the Ilford sheet you chose FP4+ when you said you were using Ortho Plus 4 - why did you choose FP4+ (is that a short name for Ortho Plus 4)? 2) Then you said you created a cheat sheet with the Ortho settings but I can’t see what you have on the sheet so I do not know what you included on your cheat sheet. 3). Lastly, you determined with a 10-stop ND that you needed to add an additional 8 seconds and you needed to calculate the reciprocity for meter reading. How did you come up with needing an additional 8 seconds of exposure time? Roger, I would be happy to buy you 2 cups of coffee if you could answer those three questions! It really does sound pretty easy I just needed a bit of clarification and I will be able to do long exposure - ya hoo! thanks in advance for the help if you are still able to reply.
Hi mate. It's a while ago this video so can't really remember as well as you have seen. Otho 80 and FP4 are two totally different films. On the Ilford Website and for all the films they make they have a downloadable data sheet with the reciprocity failures. So if you want to do long exposures past 1 second you need to try and find the information for that film. Fuji Acros II is the only film I know that reciprocity doesn't kick in for up to 2 minutes. So that is an ideal film for it. Fomapan Films have rediculous reciprocity fails so stick with Ilford as Acros II is expensive. For Long exposures go with FP4 and download the data sheet. You can download it here www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1919/product/686/
You'll see the reciprocity chart. If your metered time is 10s it suggests appx 19s exposure. No need for a coffee. Just happy to help.
Could you please do a video on how to do the darkroom dance? I'd like to prepare and practice for when the Intrepid Enlarger ships, but have no idea where to start.
It's a top secret Sergej. Takes years to master.
Great video and wonderful pictures. I wish I was also so fast at the sea.
I have not found anything in a hurry. How do you dry your pictures? I'm building a darkroom and that's the last thing to go.
You can buy a print dryer if you don't want to hang them, modern quality print dryers are expensive though.
They hang in the darkroom and I take them indoors when they dried. Or sometimes I will walk them indoors wet and hang them in the bathroom.
I should add these are Resin papers not Fiber so they wash and dry relatively quick.
Thanks, your videos are always enjoyable!! About the light leaks: Don't you think those come from the view finder? With the 10 stop ND filter, the light coming in through the viewfinder is 1000 times stronger than what's coming in from the lens and that's a problem. Maybe covering the viewfinder with a piece of gaffer tape will fix the problem.
Someone else said. I'll check it later. Hope so. Saves me making new seals
Love the hoodieeee :-)
YAY! IT CAME!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss :-D Excellent :-)
From Hungary :)
Sziasztooook! :D
Great images. Question: in the end of video I notice you are standing in front of 4 photographs on the wall. Bottom right corner of all 4 pictures looks to be some sort of emblem. What is it and could you explain/show?
Ty
I think you're referring to my logo on the bottom left of the picture frame
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss ty
Best video on long exposure on film I've seen so far!
I would have a question. Don't you need the mirror lock-up function for long exposure on film as you do on digital?
I've only shoot digital so far and I would like to try film. I see that many 35mm slr don't have MLU or they have it coupled with the self-timer and, I guess, you can't use it in Bulb mode. Maybe 35mm isn't as sensitive as a CMOS sensor. Many 120mm cameras have MLU though. Thanks!
Thanks Salvatore. Yes if you can lock the mirror up it is an added security but I've yet to see a long exposure of mine ruined by having no mirror lock up. In fact, I've never seen an issue when shooting digital long exposures either. Have you?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I've always shot long exposures in live-view as my basic dslr doesn't have MLU. I believe in digital MLU is fundamental as sensors are way more sensitive than film. Surely it's more important for macro than for landscapes. I have to give it a try. Thanks ;-)
Hey Roger, lovely video with long exposures! I was just wondering bout your printing on paper, it’s not in the middle. Any way to correct that? Thanks
I see. I think if I turned the easel around and did my 10x8 that way. As long as I've enough white border around the print area for framing then you can cut the excess off.
Sziasztok 👋
Hello!!
Mate, you may find that those light leaks aren't coming from where you think they are! Put a little black tape over the eyepiece just to check.
Gotta check it today.
Reckon you need some CROCS!
LOL
You’ve mentioned it in the past, but what’s the make and model of the tripod?
K&F Concept. I made a video on it a few videos back Ferris.
How can I do this during blue hour Do I still use the reciprocity failure time or go with regular metering
If your exposures are longer then the films reciprocity limit then yes you will need to account for that. Usually most films reciprocity kicks in after 1 second metered exposure.
You do realise that you are delving into the 'Fine Art' realm now don't you!!???
But I don't have a paint brush lol
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Yeah you do..... You painted your shed with it on Saturday!! :-D
Epico
Do you ever scan your negatives? I would like to get into developing film but I do not have any room for a dark room. I thought maybe I can develop the negative then scan the negative and work with it further in Photoshop.
Of course Wilmar. I scan for reference and also to show the images that I don't print on my videos. I use my DSLR to "scan" my negs. Nothing wrong in shooting film and scanning the negs and printing on inkjet.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Have you done any videos on that?
Reciprocity failure is how analog film corrects for digital long exposure noise
Sorry rappier, but what does that mean? Reciprocity failure is just the chemicals in the emulsion becoming less reactive the longer they are exposed to light. Its a sliding scale of diminishing reactivity.
@@iainmc9859 It's rappLer with an L and I think you're confused. Reciprocity is a function of the intensity of light reaching the film plane. In any case, it is one of the few cases of 'broken symmetry' in film vs digital photography. The shot noise incurred in long digital exposures is the price paid for not having digital reciprocity failure. Long film exposures don't get 'noisier' but instead have to contend with more motion blur due to the longer exposure times. But that's the desired effect 99% of the time anyway.
@@rappler32 Apologies about the misspelling rappler32. High intensity of light doesn't cause reciprocity failure, other than the chemistry on the emulsion becoming exhausted and unable to continue to react at the same intensity, which is the same as a lesser exposure to light over a longer period. I agree that there is no symmetry between grain in film and noise in digital, as film grain is about reaction of silver halides and digital iso is just about brightening the pixels (and not changing the sensitivity of the sensor), if that's what you mean? I don't think adding motion blur into the equation, even though the images in the vlog were of sea and clouds, has anything to do with reciprocity failure as the chemicals reacts no matter what the camera is pointed at.
Can we agree that the chemicals on the emulsion become exhausted in reacting to light and their reactivity diminishes over a longer period of exposure? If we can't agree on that then we're singing from different hymnbook, metaphorically :-)
@@iainmc9859 Nope. You don't understand the physics of latent image formation.
@@rappler32 I might not understand the physics of it but I do understand the chemistry of reactive potential. Maybe if you can explain, without divergence, how you think chemicals in film emulsion react to light in your world. In mine there is a swift reaction which then drops off in a gradual slope (this is where balancing your aperture and shutter speed can give the same exposure value for different settings), over longer exposures this becomes a more shallow curve, hence the need to extend your exposure time; commonly called 'reciprocity failure', before bottoming out, I can't make this any easier for you without drawing a picture. I won't bother to respond unless you can expand your 'physics' theory in logical terms rather than just dismissal.
What is the brand and model of that tripod?
It's a K&F concept. Run through my videos. I made a video on it couple of months back.
Pedantry warning: it's reciprocity LAW failure. You're welcome. 😁
There's a law for it?? Better not say it wrong again Bill 😂
If those prints fit in your shoe box, you've got the wrong shoes.
LOL!!!!
Don't get wellies. Get yourself a pair of Japanese riding boots (thongs, slaps, flip flops, whatever you want to call them) and wear them. Won't matter if you get your feet wet, then :D
Nice Roger