One of these films surprised me! Woodland Photography
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- Опубліковано 28 тра 2022
- In this video.....
I fancied going to the woods for some photographs and decided to take various films with me. Took me a while to shoot them all but one film I was surprised with.
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EQUIPMENT USED IN THIS VIDEO
CAMERA - Bronica ETRS
FILM - ILFORD Delta 100, Ilford Ortho 80, Ilford FP4, Fuji Acros 100 II, Fomapan 100.
DEVELOPER - XTOL
STOP & FIX - ILFORD/FOTOSPEED
PRODUCTION GEAR
CANON 6D, GOPRO 7 BLACK, Gopro 10 Black, TASCAM DR10L MIC, SENHEISSER SHOTGUN MIC,
NEEWER LED PANELS, GVM COLOUR PANELS, Valoi 360 Film Holder System for scanes, Zeapon Micro 2 Motor Slider,
Editing - FCP, PHOTOSHOP, LIGHTROOM,
ABOUT MY VIDEOS
If my videos inspire, create ideas and help others in film photography and darkroom work then it's worth making them.
I always welcome comments that are useful towards the video subject that will help others understand the process within.
Keep shooting and thanks for watching.
MUSIC CREDITING
UA-cam Studio Music - Навчання та стиль
It was interesting watching how you got your eye in over the course of the day!
If I understand you right these photos are basically what they look like without any of your magic. Roger you also have a great taste in music.
Great work and tips, Roger. Yep , Fomapan is my fav KB
Love it! Great video :)
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks Matthew.
I sympathize with you, I’m at that age where everything is wearing out, spreading out or falling out. Thanks for the great videos!
The sun is your enemy when you are photographing in the forest. Good Video, both entertaining and educational! Thank-you.
Ortho seems like a great choice for woodland, especially in harsh light
It is a nice film and renders in a different way than regular pan film. Nice to try and settle if you like the looks. Anything Orange or Red in the woodland would render darker.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss a predominantly pine woodland (orange) renders darker, which makes for better contrast and a more pleasing aesthetic 🙂
You are a great photographer...
Cheers Carmine
Man, that rotary finder for the ETRS is slick!! What a great comparison of 5 films!! Thanks for all your hard work in making this video!!
Loved that you compared all of these films with different prices. Goes to show that even the cheapest of films can keep up and produce stunning results!! Well done as always Roger 👏🏻
I really enjoyed this one thank you. Next time, how about comparing some ISO 400 films?
I did while back Rupert not in the woods though
For decades I'am a woodlands photographer . The best results I had with Delta 100 developed in Rodinal 1+50 14 minutes and of course a yellow 2 filter to lower the contrast and to lift up the green tint . Now I will start up a infrared project with my rangefinders the Contax IIIA and the big Godzilla Laika the Mamiya Press Universal and RB67 back . The infrared results with the Contax IIIA looked very good on the Rollei Superpan 200 . Warning , forest in infrared are addictive ...... Peter .
Thanks Peter
For someone who doesn't like woodland photography, you have done very well, Roger. FWIW, I have never had any problem with Fomapan 100, it has always been the 200 that has suffered from emulsion problems, and as recently as last week the FP4 Plus with the dreaded ' snow flake ' fault. I shot a roll of the Ortho 80 a couple of months ago, using my Pentax 67 and the results were really nice. It is a tricky film to filter too. I would have put a bet on the Acros to be the best emulsion. I always used to rate it @ iso 64, but with XTol you would expect it to have a slight speed boost to 80 or even 100, I am surprised that the negs were a bit on the thin and contrasty side, though I have not tried the V2 of this emulsion. The original was an OrthoPanchromatic emulsion with a pronounced dip in the Cyan region of its spectral response curve. One of the reasons that it produced the skies so well with even light filtering. Perhaps things have changed in its 2nd reincarnation. Thank you Rog.
Thanks Lensman
I can recommend to try Rollei Infrared film for woodland photography. Use a 720nm filter and expose it at iso 20. If you plan to develop it in XTOL try a pre-soak (otherwise the film might come out blank!) then develop it for 12 minutes.
Cheers Stefan. I have yet to venture into IR.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I can recommend trying infrared photography. The season is perfect now and it's unclear, how long these films will be still available. Medium format rangefinder cameras such as the Mamiya 7II or a Fuji GW690 and the Rollei Infrared film work best for IR photography.
I really like the way the Ilford delta came out. Slightly lower contrast to the other films but the way it behaves in the highlights is beautiful.
Great video.
Hope your frozen shoulder gets better. I had one for six months. Painful. But it will heal in time. I found swimming in the sea helped.
Like the midtones/greys of the Delta and FP4-Plus.
Welcome to old age Rog!!! Fun shots as usual, it's been overcast here in the US for every day I can go out and shoot!!!
Always the way Brian!
I know the feeling Roger I ache from head to foot most days lol 😂 but nice to see the Bronny out I shall be with mine this week I have most of the films you tested really useful information thanks makes my selection easier
I will confess that I have never had an issue with Formapan. I often shoot it at 400 and then stand development it in HC110. It comes out looking beautiful and actually lower grain than Formapan 400. Gotten to really enjoy Formapan 100 and it has been consistent for me.
Formapan is my go to film as well I like it, I use Rodinal and Pyro 510, mostly stand development.
I'm afraid of fomapan. Because of scratches and light. How long it takes to be master in using fomapan?
For me the only advantage to shoot Foma 400 rather than Foma 100 is the extended colour sensitivity in the reds.
I mainly shoot Foma 400 at 250 EI (daylight) or 200 (winter or blue hour or insides) and I'm getting really nice results (Rodinal or XTol).
Loved this video. I hope your shoulder is feeling better.
Thanks 👍
Med advice. Get your shoulder imaged. I thought mine would heal with time and therapy and it only got worse. Imaging showed it was bone to bone and in 2 weeks I go in for a shoulder replacement. Not saying yours is the same problem but best with it.
Oh no 😵💫
Hi Roger
Thanks for the video, I was having a little chuckle with you, my right knee is my problem and once I am down getting up is painful. You inspired me to try black and white woodland with my Bronica ETRSI, thanks mate
Andrew - Ottawa Canada
Dang I have trouble getting through a few shots at a time in the woods, but you did 5 rolls! Great job Boss!
Good to see you're using a recorder. Another "word to the wise" is to keep one or more cheap ready-reader glasses in your camera bag(s) so there's always a pair for those 'forgotten-specs' emergencies - yes it's happened to me often and can spoil a shoot.
Another enjoyable video 😃. I really liked the results you got with the Fomapan. 👍
I did too Miles
I shoot Foma 100 pretty much exclusively and it is fantastic in low light to bright overcast overcast.
Love to see the Bronica again! I'm dying to get a metered prism for my ETRSi but might as as well buy a Sekonic. Acros is usually very dense even at 200 in my limited experience, surprised to see Delta do better. I am always amazed how much detail you can get out of Foma considering how thin the negs always seem to be. I lately pull my Foma, but it never seems to get any denser
I had frozen shoulder several years ago. A couple months of physical therapy cured it completely. Hope yours does OK.
Thanks Mark
I was surprised, but not by how these films came out, but by how many of your highlights seemed to be blooming. Maybe something is starting to grow in that lens? Anyway, if you ever want to extend your woodland film test, I'd suggest you go with Rollei RPX 25 (but NOT the 100 or 400, these are completely different!) or Superpan 200. Something that sees a bit into the IR. You might like how it makes the fresh growth come alive in certain lighting conditions.
Very nice and relaxing walkabout with you, thanks mate.
Have you tried Harman direct positive paper with your large format?
Hey Jason. I've never tried that mate
Hi, your shoulder will get better in time& try a support for Knee. I think it should be Marmite format, not medium format !. I have tried many & seem to get much better results on 35mm , you can get complete control of depth of field & through the lens metering , also sharp cheap lenses, win win win. Very inspiring vids.
Great video. I too am long sighted (and long in the tooth) Check out Thin Optics reading glasses. So small I keep a pair of pince nez in my wallet so I am never without. Cheers
Been shooting fp4 a lot and love the results when stand developing with rodinal 1+100. Also tried sfx200 and used IR filter and it was pretty nice too.
I'm not sure if you have the exchangable cartridges or not for your camera, but I would like to see comparison shots between ortho 80 and a panchromatic film to see how much the sand and logs are subdued.
The sand didn't react as I thought it would. Probably more brown than orange
I was really interested to see how the ortho film fared. A few months ago I picked up a 100' roll of Kodak ortho film for lithography that expired in 1979 and I've gotten some really cool results. I may give the Ilford ortho a try when I use up my Kodak.
It is a lovely film and gives a different look on most scenes. I did think the sandy ground would have rendered darker but maybe it wasn't as orange as I thought.
Kodalith Ortho? I used to mix POTA developer to use Kodak Tech Pan. The stuff would give a pictorial result with Kodalith. At between 3 and 6 ASA.
@@NJPurling The film I have is rated at 12 ASA. My camera only goes to 25!
Great vid, I was wondering about your camera. In the description you have it listed as an ETRS, however in the video the images look like 6X4.5's and also I noticed you were pulling out a darkslide plate, is your camera perhaps an ETRSi? Speaking of which, on the 6X6 ETRS do they make film masks for the it? I looked on BandH for some and couldn't come up with anything. Also, what are your thoughts on the Neopan Across II, is it worth the extra moola and how does it compare with Ilford's new Kentmere 100...apart from cost? Cheers!
No it is a ETRS. The Acros is a nice film! FP4 is cheaper.
Fuji Acros is the best by far. Ilford Delta 100 is a close second but much worse reciprocity than Acros and Tmax 100. Kodak Tmax 100 is my favorite it has much better contrast with very good reciprocity. Acros is very spendy
Is Across made by Ilford Harmann for Fujifilm?
Harman
Thanks again for this excellent and funny video. My mostly used film is the Kodak tmax 400, but because of the price I am looking for cheaper stock. For my 35 film I have tried agfaphoto400. I heard this is the same as kenteren 400. For me the film lacks contrast. Maybe I will shoot the remaining film on iso 200. Do you have any experience with agfaphoto400?
I've used the agfa apx 400 for some years... It came out a bit thin with ilfosol 3... But I got good prints in my darkroom nonetheless... Nowadays I develop it with ID-11 and it comes out with more contrast but it's not a big deal... I think it's a good film, at least in my experience developing and printing some photos...
@@tonyparatore888 there seem to be 2 types of film: the older Agfa apx 400, and the Agfa photo apx 400. I refer to the latter one. And you? I developed in kodak Tmax
@@marikapi01 well, yes... The latest one of course... Here in Italy it costs about 6€... I buy it in packs of 10... I've even pushed it to ISO 800 with good results... I've even pushed it to 1600, but it seems to have lost some shadow detail... But I'll know more when I print some of the 1600 pushed negatives...
@@marikapi01 maybe you should not use Kodak Tmax developer for the agfa... Tmax is for film with tgrain structure...
@@tonyparatore888 we only use tmax at the academy where I do my photography course. At home I use HC110. Would that work any better with Agfaphoto?
Off topic question.... do you have any tips or tricks for loading 120 film onto a Paterson reel in a dark bag? My first two attempts have been utter failure due to the film getting tacky due to my sweaty hands and humidity in the bag. I used a trick to get the film to start loading onto the reel but the film simply stops moving through the reel because it becomes so tacky. I did not have this problem with 35mm using the same reel and bag. Should I just take the time and light proof a bathroom or closet and ditch the bag?
What I do Mike is take the film off the backing paper first. Then I flap over the sticky tape nice and tight. And I use that to thread onto the reel. Obviously it's going to be a bit tighter than the other end of the film without the tape but once you get it through the ridge on the reel it ratchets on fine after that. Also I've noticed some of these Patterson reels I have seem to wear out! I don't know why or how but I have a couple that just won't take a 120 without a fight, and a couple that do so with ease. The ones that I have to fight with I don't use for 120.
120 can be tricky on certain reels - best advice: go slow and careful - never panic, you can always "feel" your way around a problem. If an old reel is starting to cinch the film, I find gently pulling the reels apart slightly can help. Also, large changing bags are much better to avoid feeling cramped and keeping the film off surfaces. If damp hands continue to be a problem, maybe put a microfibre cloth in there to wipe your hands on.
Err hmm, @5:55 I only talk to myself because I am the only intelligent person around here worth talking to.