Yes evaporative systems work best in desert areas because there is very less humidity in the Air and the rate of evaporation is very high due to which it produces super cooling
Maintenance in the poultry industry many years, we found 1. Enclose the top cool pad cover/diffuser completely 2. So the spray bar should be spraying upwards under pressure to diffuse on the top cover (We used regular home style pool pumps) 3. Depending on your water quality, one might find cooling efficiency drop due to salts/calcification, might need to add a descaling agent. < we eventually decommissioned the paper style pads for that reason and installed 8"-10" thick black poly cool pads, additionally a small amount of chlorine (pool pills) in the bottom cool pad catch tank prevented algae. About every 6-8 months, we would hi-pressure wash them to remove dust spiders feathers leaves etc the correct method is to wash from inside /the clean side to the outside so not to force junk buildup into the pad core.
Alternative is shade cloth - folded/pleated or hang several curtain layers 1" gap between each, frame the whole curtain border with atomising misting garden sprayers - need several sequential shade cloth curtain layers to capture the water for efficient thermal evaporation - still need a bottom catch tank. this works just as well as commercial pads and easier to maintain.
Shade cloth comes in many weave densities 30-40% would be more suitable to allow for maximum air flow but still capture water molecules for thermal conversion.
After those comments, I did some testing myself and found that just adding 5 layers of shade cloth to the outside of the commercial cool pads (no spaceing between) with minimal intermittent mist sprays, have resulted in significant extra cooling 5-10c - eg 25% ambient humidity 33 Celsius, I'm able to achieve 19c.
@@delicacydelight Hello sir, a few questions please. I like the idea of shading cloths. Based on your experience, does adding layers, like 10 layers instead of 5, increase the efficiency of the cooling process? And why atomising sprayers? Would not be sufficent just water that fills the cloths from the upside? Another question if you please, is it possible to recirculate the water?
@@offlimit88 1. **Efficiency of Adding Layers of Shading Cloths**: Increasing the number of layers of shading cloths can indeed improve the efficiency of the cooling process. This is because each additional layer offers more surface area for water evaporation, which is crucial for enhancing the cooling effect. However, it's essential to consider the balance between added layers and potential diminishing returns. If the weave density or hole size of the shading cloth becomes too restrictive, it may limit airflow and hinder evaporation efficiency. To address this, one approach could be to increase the physical area covered by the shade cloth. For example, if the cooling pads cover an area of 4 square meters, expanding the shade cloth area to 10 square meters would provide more space for air circulation and enhance the cooling potential. It's important to note that the shade cloth primarily serves as a pre-cooler to the cooling pads, enhancing their overall effectiveness in cooling the greenhouse environment. 2. **Atomising Sprayers vs. Water Filling the Cloths**: Atomising sprayers are used instead of simply filling the cloths with water from the top for several reasons: - Atomising sprayers create smaller water droplets, which increases the surface area exposed to the air, leading to faster evaporation and more efficient cooling. - By atomising the water, it can be evenly distributed across the shading cloths, ensuring uniform cooling throughout the greenhouse. - Atomising sprayers allow for finer control over the amount of water dispersed, preventing oversaturation of the cloths, which could lead to dripping and inefficient use of water. 3. **Recirculating Water**: Yes, it is possible to recirculate the water in the evaporative cooling system. Recirculating water can help improve water efficiency and reduce water usage, as well as potentially lower operating costs. However, it's important to monitor water quality and periodically replace or treat the water to prevent the buildup of minerals and contaminants, which could affect the efficiency of the cooling system and potentially cause damage over time. In summary, increasing the number of layers of shading cloths can enhance cooling efficiency, atomising sprayers are preferred for their ability to create smaller droplets and ensure even distribution of water, and recirculating water is a viable option to improve water efficiency in evaporative cooling systems.
I lived and worked for 30+ years in the high desert of California and 'swamp' coolers were pretty much all we needed to use. Electricity was too high to afford for air conditioners. There is a porous cloth available to distribute the water across the top of the pads. Biggest problem we faced was the alkali in the water from the hard minerals from our well. The best we could expect was about 3 years for the pads.
Evaporative cooling systems are used primarily in dry air climates but also work in humidity at a lower rate. This air conditioning method can be found as early at 2000 years ago most likely more. Far as the treatment of the pads is concerned its easy to keep the build up of algae etc by simple chemical processes used in drinking water. Not only that but its used in ventilated areas that the humidity escapes from continuously. If your concern is mineral build up use a water filter system, if your concern is biological build up use the proper water treatment. These coolers are widely used even to this day for air conditioning.
Won't using a UV filter, which is just a shitty UV lamp in a UV transparent and watertight enclosure, in the sump prevent growth of algae? a cyclone filter could take away any solids in the water, but would require figuring out where to place it due to this system being made quite compact in terms of not having a place to put it.
I think you should pin the 8" PVC in place laterally with form stakes on either side of it. You can bailing wire the stakes together, between the pads, for more security. Other than that, nice build. I know you're a data hound, so I'd be curious to see the before and after temps in the greenhouse.
The sump area is buried in ground now (didn't show that part) which holds everything in place. There's enough weight on it where nothing will move. I had to push it around a bit to get everything aligned and had to use a pry-bar just to move it around. Link to the temperature data is at the end of the video in the credits. ;-)
I usually add few drops of anti-fungus, mold and algae to the water to prevent any smells or growth on the fins of the evaporator (those are used in swimming pools, so they are safe) If it is a closed system (the water) you can also add water treatment like few drops of citric acid to prevent calcium from water from clogging the evaporator fins. Few drops of liquid soap makes sure the fins stays clean as well
Getting ready to buy a greenhouse and was wondering about how I needed to do this I can get the system pretty cheap but wasn’t sure how it needed setup thanks for sharing
Perfect, I followed your dome build and built my 36 ft. 8/5 dome 5-6 years ago. With the temp/humidity swings throughout Alaska’s sometimes long days, I have considered doing this very thing. Thanks for all the great info over the last decade or so!
Kudos! This is GREAT my friend. Using it for your crops is a good idea but expensive unless your using free energy. (solar/wind) With free energy, This has incredible possibilities!
I learned a lot... I love this technology. Thank you ancient Egypt and Bigelow for your modernized version! One question if you don't mind-why would a 1 1/2 inch spacing resolve the drip issue? I don't get it. TIA
A friend of mine has a 100 foot greenhouse and has a system like yours.He grows hydroponic tomatoes, uses well water, and has no trouble with his here in NC He has been using it for over 10 years with 0 problems.
A quasi-fix for the spray bar, drill the holes in a partial spiral. standing at the end of the system facing the sump, drill the first hole at approximately 10 o'clock steadily arcing towards top center. to prefect the spacing you could face them all down again to see how far the sump was able to push water to each hole out to the final distance it could reach. divide time by the distance and that number into the arc length of your starting hole to the first top center hole. but thats only if you're like me and will be driven insane by the uneven flow/wear on the cardboard ...edit... thinking on it, you wouldnt even have to redrill a pipe, just add in holes. the extra holes will only reduce the pressure leaving the holes nearest the sump
My mom and stepdad had a swamp cooler in Tucson, AZ. Their walls kept rotted and black mold kept forming. I'm not sure what my stepdad ended up doing but they ended up taking it out.
Arizona has the ideal climate for evaporative cooling... hi temp, low humidity. Sounds like they didn’t open enough doors and windows to keep the air moving through. That’s the biggest problem with lack of performance... ie: user error. And please, don’t ever put chlorine into a cooler for your home! Just make sure to drain all the water out every time you turn it off.
@@axelknutt5065 As I've said, this was my parents. I have no idea exactly what happened as I lived in WA state. It's possible that the person who installed it in their house just didn't know what he was doing. It's unlikely my parents kept their windows closed because they loved the outside air. I know that because when I visited them, they always had their windows opened and this was in the spring.
Are you using well water? I noticed what appears to be formation of minerals on the pads. I have a similar system, but use R-O water because our well water has about 500+ ppm of total dissolved solids and here in the desert, I run the system nearly year around. Get this, my aquaponic sump is 2-55 gallon plastic drums buried. The evap in the greenhouse is fed by the water from my system, and even when it's 105F, the water in my two tanks remains in the mid 70's. If anything, the water is too cold for some of my plants, but the fish like it.
our water is crystal clear. The well is 500' and through solid granite. It will take a while before anything will start to accumulate on them. It's the intake of bugs and pollen that will be the long term problem.
There are additives to keep build up minerals suspended in the water which can be drained off periodically, and cleaners that help remove them, The pads seem to preform better on the second season.
Do you have numbers of before/after with the cooler? How many BTU of cooling does each pad provide? I'm assuming the temp drop is based on ambient temp and humidity.
Great video - been subscribed for ages... have really enjoyed ALL of your videos, very informative! Hi from New Zealand .. Stay safe and stay at home if you can!
@@macclark4112 Yes of course. Floods, hurricane seasons for half of the year, volcanos erupting for months at a time, the extinction and endangerment of species, forrest fires around the globe that extend without end, the polar caps melting and the waters moving closer to the shore eradicating beaches and coast lines because of rising sea levels. The only indoctrinated are those who ignore science and evidence to puppet the lies and conspiracies fed to them by the ignorant, who‘s agendas are motivated by greed, while they illogically cut off their proverbial noses to spite their proverbial faces. It’s very clear who is who.
Will the pads get contaminated with minerals in the water over time, can they be cleaned? I know my home humidifier gets quickly clogged from hard water.
You could have angles the water drip pipe away from the pump so that the water can flow further faster, not much of a incline or decline, all depends how you look at it, from the pump it would be a decline towards the opposite end, I would say no more than a 1/4 to 1/2 inch drop in elevation.
You need to look into getting a 3d printer. It is going to be very helpful. I have hist some road blocks where I am to make it useful yet. But I will be soon. Between having a kid recently and being tin the hospital for a while and the one winter that was so bad my greenhouse collapsed under a heavy snow fall. I have to start over. I was able to save one IBC tote though which saved me a little money. The laptop and all my gear are gone though.
Swamp coolers are a well established technology and the science is not very complicated. The change in temperature will depend on a ton of factors like the temperature and humidity inside and outside of the greenhouse, the amount of water you are pumping through it and the airflow through the corrugations. The video is a really good walk through of the construction for someone who doesn't know where to start. I'm not sure what data you think would be meaningful. But if he took a thermometer and showed you the temperature that would be entirely useless. A walk through of the construction is way more useful.
If you check out his Facebook Page, he has been posting the recent temperature data, and its impressive the impact that it is having. But as mentioned below, Evap Coolers are a pretty standard piece of climate control equipment across the industry. This isn't really a video to prove the technology, it's a fantastic instructional on how to do it yourself, rather than buying a manufactured evap wall.
@@excitedbox5705 Perhaps we shouldn't confuse quantitative with useful. I'm certain you can scrub for data on evaporative cooler panels with its thermodynamic effect in relative structures; nonetheless, there's much value in learning from his component selection, chosen configuration, and troubleshooting process.
would the black of the pads facing the outside heat up and create convection in the wrong direction? I would think you would want a white outside facing pad and a dark inside facing pad so the tendency to produce convection in the direction of the heat would be in your favor. Are you using a fan on the other side of your greenhouse to draw the air in?
they're on the north side so there is no direct sunlight hitting them. The manufacturer says they should face this way to prevent algae from grown on them. I just installed them as told. ;-) There are two 48" fans on the other side of the greenhouse
You are a badazz sir. I really needed this video. Nice to know i dont need the prefab systems. So what about the louvered vents you have. Do you have a good place for those?
the channels go both up and down depending on where you look at the cross section so it doesn't matter which way they go in. Black goes on the outside to help reduce algae
no problem with mold. At the beginning of the season I'll add some bleach to sanitize it. These pads are 5 years old...probably will be ready to replace in a year or two.
So, if you have the space you can cool enough air to cool a whole room? Amazing. Can the air be ducted to other places or it works only in the same room it's on?
depending on your sump size wouldnt you be better off preventing the heat entering in the first place by pumping a stream over the roof of the building/enclosure? You know evaporative coolers dont work in humid environments. When the air becomes saturated evaporation stops. but with your windows open it just ...oh i see it flows through...so you need hot air input for it to work.. so evaporation is going to be high regardless.. so a thin flow of water over the roof would evaporate less theoretically. because it will be running over a cooled surface. a large sump kept underground with radiator like properties will exchange heat into the ground....SHADE..no wait its a green house? needs sun? but kept cool. how about solar panels for shade powering artificial lights? flouro tubes specific sodium phosperous/phosphate or what ever they are....cost? right.. cardboard pvc and some duct tape budget. what are you cooling? (I didnt watch the whole video.)
If the pipe isn't under pressure, you don't need glue, much less the "cleaner." Friction alone is usually enough to hold them together, without leaking.
This looks like the humidifier in my school's BioTrek where they keep alligators and other reptiles as well as tropical plants. Couldn't imagine it would be comfortable for your lungs 😭
So I guess when the manufacturer put on the can that part one is a primer and part two is a rubber cement they do not know what they are talking about .
I don't think he used primer at all. He used cleaner and then cement. And I don't think the cement he used is a rubber cement, but a solvent cement (weld).
Inches ? Who uses inches these days ? Why, it's only the people in Liberia, Myanmar and the USA that do, but they're doing it here on the WORLD WIDE web, even though 96% of the world's population uses the metric system. They should only post on the USA WIDE web, not the WORLD WIDE one.
So you think we should use metrics for the sole reason of "everyone else is doing it ." ? Do you use that reason in other applications in your life also or just this one ? Pretty stupid reason to do anything if you are honest about it .
We Americans are Bi-metric now , we know arithmetic and have tools to adopt to every system when we encounter it , because we were the first melting pot ,
Please educate yourself. The US uses both. We use metric for science/precision and imperial for daily use as it's easier to approximate. Everyone knows how big 1 "foot" is without a ruler. With something like "26 cm", there's no frame of reference. Who the hell knows how big that is? The answer is no one.
Since 53.6% of my views are from the US, I stay with imperial. Next is Canada at 5.4%, UK at 3.1% India at 2.7%. And for a project like this, what difference does it make? This isn't rocket science.
Used one of these with a big fan behind it on a rig in Oman during the summer, working on the drill floor in 45’C....it was a godsend
اخي انت عربي؟؟؟
How it was working when u run a fan behind the rig. Is it perform well or not
@@hamzaaziz2955 very well, made a big difference. The fan was the same size as the radiator
Yes evaporative systems work best in desert areas because there is very less humidity in the Air and the rate of evaporation is very high due to which it produces super cooling
Another great video. Such an underrated channel.
Share it with your friends. ;-)
@@Bigelowbrook Friends?
Maintenance in the poultry industry many years, we found 1. Enclose the top cool pad cover/diffuser completely 2. So the spray bar should be spraying upwards under pressure to diffuse on the top cover (We used regular home style pool pumps) 3. Depending on your water quality, one might find cooling efficiency drop due to salts/calcification, might need to add a descaling agent. < we eventually decommissioned the paper style pads for that reason and installed 8"-10" thick black poly cool pads, additionally a small amount of chlorine (pool pills) in the bottom cool pad catch tank prevented algae. About every 6-8 months, we would hi-pressure wash them to remove dust spiders feathers leaves etc the correct method is to wash from inside /the clean side to the outside so not to force junk buildup into the pad core.
Alternative is shade cloth - folded/pleated or hang several curtain layers 1" gap between each, frame the whole curtain border with atomising misting garden sprayers - need several sequential shade cloth curtain layers to capture the water for efficient thermal evaporation - still need a bottom catch tank. this works just as well as commercial pads and easier to maintain.
Shade cloth comes in many weave densities 30-40% would be more suitable to allow for maximum air flow but still capture water molecules for thermal conversion.
After those comments, I did some testing myself and found that just adding 5 layers of shade cloth to the outside of the commercial cool pads (no spaceing between) with minimal intermittent mist sprays, have resulted in significant extra cooling 5-10c - eg 25% ambient humidity 33 Celsius, I'm able to achieve 19c.
@@delicacydelight Hello sir, a few questions please. I like the idea of shading cloths. Based on your experience, does adding layers, like 10 layers instead of 5, increase the efficiency of the cooling process? And why atomising sprayers? Would not be sufficent just water that fills the cloths from the upside? Another question if you please, is it possible to recirculate the water?
@@offlimit88
1. **Efficiency of Adding Layers of Shading Cloths**:
Increasing the number of layers of shading cloths can indeed improve the efficiency of the cooling process. This is because each additional layer offers more surface area for water evaporation, which is crucial for enhancing the cooling effect. However, it's essential to consider the balance between added layers and potential diminishing returns. If the weave density or hole size of the shading cloth becomes too restrictive, it may limit airflow and hinder evaporation efficiency. To address this, one approach could be to increase the physical area covered by the shade cloth. For example, if the cooling pads cover an area of 4 square meters, expanding the shade cloth area to 10 square meters would provide more space for air circulation and enhance the cooling potential. It's important to note that the shade cloth primarily serves as a pre-cooler to the cooling pads, enhancing their overall effectiveness in cooling the greenhouse environment.
2. **Atomising Sprayers vs. Water Filling the Cloths**:
Atomising sprayers are used instead of simply filling the cloths with water from the top for several reasons:
- Atomising sprayers create smaller water droplets, which increases the surface area exposed to the air, leading to faster evaporation and more efficient cooling.
- By atomising the water, it can be evenly distributed across the shading cloths, ensuring uniform cooling throughout the greenhouse.
- Atomising sprayers allow for finer control over the amount of water dispersed, preventing oversaturation of the cloths, which could lead to dripping and inefficient use of water.
3. **Recirculating Water**:
Yes, it is possible to recirculate the water in the evaporative cooling system. Recirculating water can help improve water efficiency and reduce water usage, as well as potentially lower operating costs. However, it's important to monitor water quality and periodically replace or treat the water to prevent the buildup of minerals and contaminants, which could affect the efficiency of the cooling system and potentially cause damage over time.
In summary, increasing the number of layers of shading cloths can enhance cooling efficiency, atomising sprayers are preferred for their ability to create smaller droplets and ensure even distribution of water, and recirculating water is a viable option to improve water efficiency in evaporative cooling systems.
I lived and worked for 30+ years in the high desert of California and 'swamp' coolers were pretty much all we needed to use. Electricity was too high to afford for air conditioners. There is a porous cloth available to distribute the water across the top of the pads. Biggest problem we faced was the alkali in the water from the hard minerals from our well. The best we could expect was about 3 years for the pads.
Evaporative cooling systems are used primarily in dry air climates but also work in humidity at a lower rate. This air conditioning method can be found as early at 2000 years ago most likely more. Far as the treatment of the pads is concerned its easy to keep the build up of algae etc by simple chemical processes used in drinking water. Not only that but its used in ventilated areas that the humidity escapes from continuously. If your concern is mineral build up use a water filter system, if your concern is biological build up use the proper water treatment. These coolers are widely used even to this day for air conditioning.
Won't using a UV filter, which is just a shitty UV lamp in a UV transparent and watertight enclosure, in the sump prevent growth of algae? a cyclone filter could take away any solids in the water, but would require figuring out where to place it due to this system being made quite compact in terms of not having a place to put it.
20yr master plumber. Instead of cleaner use clear primer it softens the pipe and fitting making assembly much easier. 👍
I think you should pin the 8" PVC in place laterally with form stakes on either side of it. You can bailing wire the stakes together, between the pads, for more security. Other than that, nice build.
I know you're a data hound, so I'd be curious to see the before and after temps in the greenhouse.
The sump area is buried in ground now (didn't show that part) which holds everything in place. There's enough weight on it where nothing will move. I had to push it around a bit to get everything aligned and had to use a pry-bar just to move it around. Link to the temperature data is at the end of the video in the credits. ;-)
I usually add few drops of anti-fungus, mold and algae to the water to prevent any smells or growth on the fins of the evaporator (those are used in swimming pools, so they are safe)
If it is a closed system (the water) you can also add water treatment like few drops of citric acid to prevent calcium from water from clogging the evaporator fins. Few drops of liquid soap makes sure the fins stays clean as well
That was on my mind. Good idea.
0:33 CAD - Crayon Aided Design
PVC primer cleans but more importantly softens the surface of the pipe so the glue gets a better bite.
He said that in the video.
I'd be interested in an efficiency test comparing this to another channels new version of evaporitive cooling AC
That's pretty cool seeing one so big, I've been experimenting with that on a much smaller scale. Thanks for sharing the process!
You really ought to start consulting!!
You are really, really ingenious.
Been watching for years now!
I do, but not for the ag industry....there's no $$$ in it. ;-)
Disappointing.
Getting ready to buy a greenhouse and was wondering about how I needed to do this I can get the system pretty cheap but wasn’t sure how it needed setup thanks for sharing
Perfect, I followed your dome build and built my 36 ft. 8/5 dome 5-6 years ago. With the temp/humidity swings throughout Alaska’s sometimes long days, I have considered doing this very thing. Thanks for all the great info over the last decade or so!
Kudos!
This is GREAT my friend. Using it for your crops is a good idea but expensive unless your using free energy. (solar/wind)
With free energy, This has incredible possibilities!
16:31 - What is that handheld device called? What is it doing to the plastic piece?
It's used to expanded the Pex so it will fit over the barbed fitting. Then it shrinks back down and will never come off.
I learned a lot... I love this technology. Thank you ancient Egypt and Bigelow for your modernized version! One question if you don't mind-why would a 1 1/2 inch spacing resolve the drip issue? I don't get it. TIA
A friend of mine has a 100 foot greenhouse and has a system like yours.He grows hydroponic tomatoes, uses well water, and has no trouble with his here in NC He has been using it for over 10 years with 0 problems.
He is using cardboard?
These kind of systems are ideal for desert areas due to less humidity in the Air
You'll have an easier time getting your pvc together if you chamfer the edge a bit.
Video: Well made, descriptive, clever
My brain: " B i g T o o b s "
I remember changing these things (I call them Cool Cell panels) in our greenhouses we had at my high school.
A quasi-fix for the spray bar, drill the holes in a partial spiral.
standing at the end of the system facing the sump, drill the first hole at approximately 10 o'clock steadily arcing towards top center.
to prefect the spacing you could face them all down again to see how far the sump was able to push water to each hole out to the final distance it could reach. divide time by the distance and that number into the arc length of your starting hole to the first top center hole. but thats only if you're like me and will be driven insane by the uneven flow/wear on the cardboard
...edit...
thinking on it, you wouldnt even have to redrill a pipe, just add in holes. the extra holes will only reduce the pressure leaving the holes nearest the sump
facing the holes up is the best way to do it. As long as the spray bar is level, there is even distribution down the entire length.
I like how the spider says hello at 0:35. :3
My mom and stepdad had a swamp cooler in Tucson, AZ. Their walls kept rotted and black mold kept forming. I'm not sure what my stepdad ended up doing but they ended up taking it out.
the water should be treated with chlorine...they really aren't great for cooling a house...something like a chicken coop or greenhouse is ideal!
Well I think they figured out it was a mistake. This was ten or so years ago. They're both gone now.
Arizona has the ideal climate for evaporative cooling... hi temp, low humidity. Sounds like they didn’t open enough doors and windows to keep the air moving through. That’s the biggest problem with lack of performance... ie: user error. And please, don’t ever put chlorine into a cooler for your home! Just make sure to drain all the water out every time you turn it off.
@@axelknutt5065 As I've said, this was my parents. I have no idea exactly what happened as I lived in WA state. It's possible that the person who installed it in their house just didn't know what he was doing. It's unlikely my parents kept their windows closed because they loved the outside air. I know that because when I visited them, they always had their windows opened and this was in the spring.
Mold is a killer.
Are you using well water? I noticed what appears to be formation of minerals on the pads. I have a similar system, but use R-O water because our well water has about 500+ ppm of total dissolved solids and here in the desert, I run the system nearly year around. Get this, my aquaponic sump is 2-55 gallon plastic drums buried. The evap in the greenhouse is fed by the water from my system, and even when it's 105F, the water in my two tanks remains in the mid 70's. If anything, the water is too cold for some of my plants, but the fish like it.
our water is crystal clear. The well is 500' and through solid granite. It will take a while before anything will start to accumulate on them. It's the intake of bugs and pollen that will be the long term problem.
There are additives to keep build up minerals suspended in the water which can be drained off periodically, and cleaners that help remove them,
The pads seem to preform better on the second season.
I'd like to see some stats. Temps before and after running, inside and outside. I'm crazy impressed. Just want to quantify how well it actually works!
There's a second video that shows this. ;-)
Ok didn't know that. I'll look for it! Thanks
@@craiggreenwood6496 ua-cam.com/video/XbXaj45hiuc/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/m0PiUP29taE/v-deo.html
@@Bigelowbrook Don't know how I missed that. I've now seen it. Incredible! Thanks
Ugh... no before or after temp readings...??? no ROI info...???
watch the second video....link is at the end of this one!
Peace,
Amazing work bro, appreciate you.
Have a great evening.
Do you have numbers of before/after with the cooler? How many BTU of cooling does each pad provide? I'm assuming the temp drop is based on ambient temp and humidity.
0 cooling at 100% humidity
There's a link at the end of the video that shows all the data on how effective it is at different humidity levels.
Great video - been subscribed for ages... have really enjoyed ALL of your videos, very informative! Hi from New Zealand .. Stay safe and stay at home if you can!
Thanks 👍
Amazing. We really need to look backward and modernize old forms of technology to fix all of our climate problems :-)
The only Climate problems we have exist in your mind after Indoctrination has done its work on you.
@@macclark4112 Yes of course. Floods, hurricane seasons for half of the year, volcanos erupting for months at a time, the extinction and endangerment of species, forrest fires around the globe that extend without end, the polar caps melting and the waters moving closer to the shore eradicating beaches and coast lines because of rising sea levels. The only indoctrinated are those who ignore science and evidence to puppet the lies and conspiracies fed to them by the ignorant, who‘s agendas are motivated by greed, while they illogically cut off their proverbial noses to spite their proverbial faces. It’s very clear who is who.
Those man-caused volcanos are a real bitch.
Fantastic and well explained.
Will the pads get contaminated with minerals in the water over time, can they be cleaned? I know my home humidifier gets quickly clogged from hard water.
Yes. Thankfully we have very good water. At some point I will have to replace the pads. If they last for a season, I will be happy.
I'm told running a vinegar/water solution through the system for an hour or two as regular maintenance is pretty effective.
Nice greenhouse walls
You could have angles the water drip pipe away from the pump so that the water can flow further faster, not much of a incline or decline, all depends how you look at it, from the pump it would be a decline towards the opposite end, I would say no more than a 1/4 to 1/2 inch drop in elevation.
some numbers on the results would be great.
There's another video with an update. 👍
Great video, just stumbled on your channel by clicking the wrong thing but so glad i did :), just subscribed.
Awesome! Thank you!
You need to look into getting a 3d printer. It is going to be very helpful. I have hist some road blocks where I am to make it useful yet. But I will be soon. Between having a kid recently and being tin the hospital for a while and the one winter that was so bad my greenhouse collapsed under a heavy snow fall. I have to start over. I was able to save one IBC tote though which saved me a little money. The laptop and all my gear are gone though.
I have three 3D printers, a laser cutter, and CNC cutter. ;-)
Nice work buddy!
Very good work Sir
........so, not a single bit of data on the alteration to the temperature......................................
Yea without some data / measurements this video is not very useful.
Swamp coolers are a well established technology and the science is not very complicated. The change in temperature will depend on a ton of factors like the temperature and humidity inside and outside of the greenhouse, the amount of water you are pumping through it and the airflow through the corrugations. The video is a really good walk through of the construction for someone who doesn't know where to start. I'm not sure what data you think would be meaningful. But if he took a thermometer and showed you the temperature that would be entirely useless. A walk through of the construction is way more useful.
If you check out his Facebook Page, he has been posting the recent temperature data, and its impressive the impact that it is having. But as mentioned below, Evap Coolers are a pretty standard piece of climate control equipment across the industry. This isn't really a video to prove the technology, it's a fantastic instructional on how to do it yourself, rather than buying a manufactured evap wall.
If you stayed to the end of the video, there was a link to the second video with all the data. ;-)
@@excitedbox5705 Perhaps we shouldn't confuse quantitative with useful. I'm certain you can scrub for data on evaporative cooler panels with its thermodynamic effect in relative structures; nonetheless, there's much value in learning from his component selection, chosen configuration, and troubleshooting process.
What's the temp difference with and without starting the water flow.
Please watch the follow-up video. ua-cam.com/video/XbXaj45hiuc/v-deo.html
would the black of the pads facing the outside heat up and create convection in the wrong direction? I would think you would want a white outside facing pad and a dark inside facing pad so the tendency to produce convection in the direction of the heat would be in your favor. Are you using a fan on the other side of your greenhouse to draw the air in?
they're on the north side so there is no direct sunlight hitting them. The manufacturer says they should face this way to prevent algae from grown on them. I just installed them as told. ;-) There are two 48" fans on the other side of the greenhouse
Thank you very Much.
Good job
Mr. Bigelow, my sisters and I hope to build one just like yours. By any chance do you have the supply list ?
Well done
Great job.
What material are those slabs built of?
Ok one question........? How soon til can you start at my house lol?! Great job man!
Aaron from Ocala Florida
You are a badazz sir. I really needed this video. Nice to know i dont need the prefab systems. So what about the louvered vents you have. Do you have a good place for those?
Where do you get those evap pads??
Were I get mine.
www.qcsupply.com/catalogsearch/result?q=evaporative%20cooling
I was surprised that people dont use cleaner!..ive argued and they say the compound they use is so strong it doesnt need it....whatever..
what about fans? Are there any tests for efficiency?
Make a homemade solar pattern to run the pump, then you don't have to ask the question.
nice work!
Neato! Thx for sharing!
Good job
Great Video! Nice engineering on the fly!
This cooling system must not have any holes on the greenhouse, except the fans and the cooling pads.. Right?
there are more fans on the opposite side of the greenhouse to exhaust air
yes. It's a sealed greenhouse. Air is sucked in through these and blown out of the other side with two larger fans.
Good day sir! may I have the list of materials used this project?
Nice project. Can you provide a link to the autofill valve?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FYN7OM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
😲😲 didn't plan before starting the project? 😢😢
When he beat that pipe I thought my phone had switched to Seven Nation Army.
LOL. good song.
@Bigelow Brook Farm Please where I can buy these kody packs? 16:24
Most greenhouse or farm suppliers sell them.
@@Bigelowbrook What is the price per 1m2 please?
turn the pads around, so that the air channel has to run upwards. this will prevent drips flying into the greenhouse.
the channels go both up and down depending on where you look at the cross section so it doesn't matter which way they go in. Black goes on the outside to help reduce algae
Your making the same evap cooler as I have on chicken houses.
Me too,
Used to maintain over three thousand feet of koolcells for a company named foodonics international inc.
Blue 🔵 prints will help a drawing board.
Very Good!!!
How does this system work in regards to mold? Separately, how often would someone have to replace those pads?
no problem with mold. At the beginning of the season I'll add some bleach to sanitize it. These pads are 5 years old...probably will be ready to replace in a year or two.
@@Bigelowbrookyou will run the bleached water through the pads?
How long did this project take you? Also, what is the name of the adaptor you used to expand the ends of the flex hose to add your elbow fittings?
a couple of days because of the time to film it. The expansion tool is common for plummers that use pex tubing.
Pex Expander
Saws All is the best to use on large PVC pipes
Hi William Gates, do you belong Bill Gates.... 😅😅😅
everybody liked that!
Be cool to see a temp differnce.
Link is in the end credits.
Amazing..👍
I know absolutely nothing about this. Is it to cool water or to cool air in the space the wall its at? So cool... 😐 Sorry. Haha
A fan is placed behind the cooling wall and blows air through the wall.
Esteban - It cools the air in the green house. It works well in drier climates.
It for the air.
@@Deezuzjohn Close enough. Technically the fans are on the other side of the greenhouse and are sucking the air through them. ;-)
So, if you have the space you can cool enough air to cool a whole room? Amazing. Can the air be ducted to other places or it works only in the same room it's on?
LOL @ the "little secret" of you using your wife's little digger... just between you and the 100,000 viewers of this video! 😂😮😅😊
depending on your sump size wouldnt you be better off preventing the heat entering in the first place by pumping a stream over the roof of the building/enclosure? You know evaporative coolers dont work in humid environments. When the air becomes saturated evaporation stops. but with your windows open it just ...oh i see it flows through...so you need hot air input for it to work.. so evaporation is going to be high regardless.. so a thin flow of water over the roof would evaporate less theoretically. because it will be running over a cooled surface. a large sump kept underground with radiator like properties will exchange heat into the ground....SHADE..no wait its a green house? needs sun? but kept cool. how about solar panels for shade powering artificial lights? flouro tubes specific sodium phosperous/phosphate or what ever they are....cost? right.. cardboard pvc and some duct tape budget. what are you cooling? (I didnt watch the whole video.)
If the pipe isn't under pressure, you don't need glue, much less the "cleaner." Friction alone is usually enough to hold them together, without leaking.
That is not always true, Water weighs a lot and therefor can push sections open.
Does it really work? Needs blowers or fans?
yes it works. There are two 48" fans that are used to draw air through it.
How many degrees of cooling does your system generally seem to produce?
There's a 2nd video that shows the stats.
@@Bigelowbrook you couldn't even answer? Wow
@@skinebman1 I see a reply!
Whare did you get the pads?
Most greenhouse suppliers will sell them. try Greenhouse Mega Store or FarmTek
If you drill the holes in a quarter spiral each direction starting at the far end and spiral up one quarter each way it may improve the water flow.
there would be enough pressure differential between the top and bottom holes where water would only come out the bottom.
Hi, can you give me a little more info on the type of pump I should get to mirror yours?
I've been using Jebao DC pumps
Thank you. My sisters and I are going to try to make one identical to yours. Your video is great!!!
JOY JOY
What are the pads called?
celdek evaporative pads.
What is spray bar holes diameter ?
I don't recall...probably 1/4"
so how much did it change the temp?
followup videos: ua-cam.com/video/XbXaj45hiuc/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/m0PiUP29taE/v-deo.html
@@Bigelowbrook you did not discuss the temp change in that one, but thanks
Use saltwater and put it in a sauna
What material is the panel?
Cardboard
Your system looks like a giant radiator.
@2:40 That's what she said
This looks like the humidifier in my school's BioTrek where they keep alligators and other reptiles as well as tropical plants. Couldn't imagine it would be comfortable for your lungs 😭
put on a VOC respirator about $50 saves the old brain.
PVC glue and primer is a terrible smell. Can feel my braincells burn smelling it.
The fans were running all the time...nice fresh air! ;-)
Best way to cut pvc is by using an old school hand saw.
my brain says you're correct, my carpel tunnel says no.
How can i get my hands on those pads.?
most greenhouse suppliers have them. Try GreenhouseMegaStore if you want to buy online
But it could waste lots of water.
So I guess when the manufacturer put on the can that part one is a primer and part two is a rubber cement they do not know what they are talking about .
I don't think he used primer at all. He used cleaner and then cement. And I don't think the cement he used is a rubber cement, but a solvent cement (weld).
The primer is actually a cleaner and the cement (glue) is a solvent that melts the PVC and fuses the two together.
Inches ?
Who uses inches these days ?
Why, it's only the people in Liberia, Myanmar and the USA that do, but they're doing it here on the WORLD WIDE web, even though 96% of the world's population uses the metric system.
They should only post on the USA WIDE web, not the WORLD WIDE one.
That made me laugh. I appreciate the metric system, so with US would adopt it.
So you think we should use metrics for the sole reason of "everyone else is doing it ." ? Do you use that reason in other applications in your life also or just this one ? Pretty stupid reason to do anything if you are honest about it .
We Americans are Bi-metric now , we know arithmetic and have tools to adopt to every system when we encounter it , because we were the first melting pot ,
Please educate yourself. The US uses both. We use metric for science/precision and imperial for daily use as it's easier to approximate. Everyone knows how big 1 "foot" is without a ruler. With something like "26 cm", there's no frame of reference. Who the hell knows how big that is? The answer is no one.
Since 53.6% of my views are from the US, I stay with imperial. Next is Canada at 5.4%, UK at 3.1% India at 2.7%. And for a project like this, what difference does it make? This isn't rocket science.
Get an air conditioner....This is nonsense..You people are nuts.
LOL Try running a greenhouse this size using a chiller and you'll be bankrupt in a month.
Yous nuts, clearly have no clue about the cost or equipment to cool a space like that
Using evaporative coolers is standard in tunnels in hot dry climates. Way more cost effective and more lowtech than aiconditioners.