For those who are skeptical of the general principle of the system, this is not actually a new design but is a slight variation of a very effective form of passive cooling that has been in use in larger structures in desert climates for centuries or even millennia. The scale of the system is different. For instance, the underground pipe would normally be more of a tunnel and the inlet would normally be situated atop a high structure such as a tower or turret, not close to the ground. The system outlet would also be situated up high. Concerns about insect intrusion are valid but I've never understood why you couldn't just cover the inlet with filter material and grating. Desert climates tend to be more arid but the aforementioned tunnels often have significant quantities of water inside of them that has condensed and settled out of the air and mold doesn't seem to be a problem for some reason. Interesting concept.
Remove the humidity at one point by angling the Air pipe to a point prior to it going into the building and collecting it there and remove it by pipe out. By creating a hot chimney you move a lot more air humid or not. If you place a desiccant at the front of the Air pipe that allows the Sun or some other heated surface to evaporate the now hotter less moisture dense air into the pipe you can eliminate the moist condensate issue almost entirely.
If you cool the air below the dew point moisture will condense in the pipe. The air is full of various spores which will love the dark, cool and moist environment inside this pipe. In order to move air with the least resistance, the pipe will need to be larger and will need something to cause turbulence for the best heat transfer. You also need a structure that is sealed well enough to develop enough stack effect and enough Vacuum to draw air thru this pipe instead of thru every leak in the envelope. IMO, a far better way to do this is to bury water pipe in the ground and circulate water thru it to chill the water and run it thru a fan-coil/radiator. Any condensation will occur at the radiator where it can be dealt with. You can also circulate room air thru it for increased cooling and better climate control. A little more expensive and complex, but all commonly available components…
Absolutely true. Beneath the ground, the inside of that pipe will be nasty inside of a year. And the stench and humidity would make the house unlivable.
Great comment, deserve 100 tumbs up! Nobody thinks holistic, as air quality is not just temperature, but humidity and polution. I have personaly experiances some inovative heating and ventilation design where air becomes so dry that after night throat gets bone-dry and burns like hell...
I found this video the shortest with schematic and drawings very interesting thank you. I read this very high scoring reaction and of course it is possible especially down in the ground it could be a like or when filling in the hole the pipe can break and then the soil can contact the air directly and from that it will grow probably something. We need to remind ourselves that we live in buildings where are ventilation is sucked out or Brett blown in by ducting. Saying that the ducting is self cleaning and needs maintenance once in 10 years etc. I changed the layout of my building and clean the ducting inside the house after 28 years for the first time. Despite all these years of negligence there was almost no just and certainly no spider in place it was quite clean. I saw it by the expected inspection with the endoscope and before and after I couldn’t tell the difference. The ducting was off as zinked metal. If someone has problems or hesitation a copper pipe will always be bacterial disinfectant like other materials like linseed oil hardened or liquid. So when you have these plans you can also drain your pipes in line to boil on the inside and spray them. So whether solution or just go with it and air filtering system is just very simple to install every engine manufacturer has their own spare parts and you just get a fair filter and the ducting around it and you have your own filter so I don’t know if you need to worry about moles and that kind of thing. It’s an open system where wind blows through and where this occurs moist will tend to reparate and like in my ducting I never saw anything like moist or water anywhere and this after 28 years heavily intensively using the section of the ventilation system while cooking. Especially in dry air zones it’s not a problem but when you’re in a moist area like an Asian Philippines or Vietnam than that could be different than our filtering system is maybe in place.
Hi, here, in France, we call this a 'puit provencal' or ''puit canadien' (puits= well). We use it since...; roman times. Used in persic golf since... long times, I saw the heat system in ancient korea is similar. The tunnel have to have a of 5°(+-) gradient to allow water and vapor to flow out of the tunnel in order to avoid bacteria or fungus. Tunnel, best build in ... 'terra cotta'. No radon, no infiltration, no bad smells. Concrete has radon isssu. Metal will be 'eaten' in less than a year, PVC can break, develop bateria, bad smells. Best to have the fan in the house, in basement for maintenance. Not necessary to dig 4 meter, it can be effective with 2 meter start (remember, gradient is needed). The size have to be calculated between heat exchange effectiveness air air flow ( to avoid issue and to heat/cool the building with efficientcy). Here, i saw the system connected to 'heatpump'. it used as a pre treatment of the air (air is already cooled a little in summer, and, already warm in winter, so the sytem have to spend less energy to warm/cool the building.
My uncle, a civil engineer, set up a system at his home in Kansas that was essentially the same. He put it in in 1948 and it still was working flawlessly at his death in 1999. He kept his house at 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit year round without a furnace or air conditioner just a small fan governed by the thermostat.
@@saifulhelmi7944 From what I remember he had a gooseneck pipe coming out of the ground about 5 feet tall with a heavy screen covering the opening. Inside the basement the had a receiver box on the end of the pipe with another screen and a heavy furnace filter that filled the box in front of the squirrel cage fan that fed the breeze into the duct work. I'm not sure how effective it was with mold but he and my aunt seemed pretty healthy. I would imagine he changed the filters pretty often. I never noticed the "storm sewer smell" that regular pipes always had. It didn't have any water infiltration. He didn't use the outside and inline structures shown in the diagram, just a 10 inch (I think) steel pipe that was welded together as it was laid below the frost line and snaked back and forth under the back yard making, I think, 3 loops between the wall of the basement and the gooseneck stand pipe. I'm pretty sure it was laid on a 4 foot wide and 4 foot deep bed of gravel with the same amount over it then backfilled. I was born 3 years after he installed it so I'm not certain of the details, but I asked him about it some.
I saw a similar device in service at Sion National Park in Utah some years back. I am glad to learn how it works and impressed at it's simplicity and efficiency.
I first saw this system in about 1973 in Texas. They used concrete pipe and the constant air flow kept the air dry. I would put gravel under it and a french drain. The one I saw was 150' long and about 15' about 36" in diameter.
Rodale's New Shelter Magazine introduced "cooling tubes" for homes back in the early 80's. I remember they spotlighted a home around the Atlanta, GA area. The concern about Legionnaires' disease turned interest away from cooling tubes for passive home cooling. They also had solar chimneys in their design. Great magazine ahead of its time.
Thank you. There are some posts that mention ,what I consider to be important issues, mold, and flooding even radon gas. But interesting idea and nice to see some innovation.
this principle had been used for centuries in the city of Yazd in Iran and actually uses the wind to move the (hot) air coming from the desert surrounding the city to below the house for cooling and then back up to the rooms now cooled. this system is entirely passive and surprisingly efficient. When I was there the temperature outside was very hot but in the houses it was very fresh and pleasant. I am still surprised that it took so long to adopt it in the western countries.
If you can't put a meter on it. We don't want it. Capitalism at its finest. The goal is to keep you a slave. There was a time when houses were built with whole house fans that only needed to be run for about twenty minutes in the morning and in the evening.🤷🏿♂️
Looks promising. I would suggest raising the opening to much higher. So the air coming in isn't so hot or dusty to begin with. More heat and particles will be closer to the ground. Heat rises of course but will disperse as it rises.
When I was a kid, a friend lived in an underground house, and it was very cool in the summer, and warm in the winter. Why we still keep building up, rather than down is beyond me.
It is cheaper initially to build above ground, but the benefits of earth sheltered homes are worth it in the long run. But it is difficult to get mortgages, and that keeps the majority of people out of the market. That is why we built our home ourselves in the Ozarks. It gets natural light from mostly south facing windows. We use that front area as an "orangery" to grow food indoors, all year. The living area gets natural light when needed. I prefer to enjoy natural light outdoors and enjoy LED lighting indoors while cooking, reading, and working anyway.
I also want to know what kind construction should be used to secure the air duct far below the ground, at least it should be able to withstand earth deformation when there are earthquake or flood...
Clearly approach to reduce cooling! Brilliant cooling example! Great way how to stric temperature control. This is objectivity approach underground with influence of water but with respect to both natural and mechanical cooling is ONE OF THE MOST REFRESHONG AND WORTHWHILE FEATURES that I have seen to be ptojected nowdays. Comprehensive approach 🤩
You can build a pond/natural pool, raise salmon in it, etc, and install geothermal under that, and the water would keep it a constant temp of deep enough
The concern I heard of (in Florida specifically) was a concept for the sanitation of the underground pipes. I recommended an RC at the time. That could scrub, and merit UV light.
Try a closed system. One that recirculates the air from within the structure trough the underground heat exchanger with a regulated opening to introduce fresh air...
I think this is good for a dry climate building, yet I have a concern about fungus, dirt and condensation within the airline. Could water cooling be applied with the same principle?
Interesting and thanks. Another way of saying the same thing is looking into just where or how deep the frost line is in your locality. For those that are interested, there are some sorts of Stirling Engines that will work on temperature differentials of 5 or so degrees C or less. Maybe charge up your cellphone?
The earth is not 24C, it is more like 15C at that depth.If you have a well or even city water. Just run you tap water for 5 minutes and measure the temp of the water. That will give the temp of the ground.
Mold, mildew fungus...all require an organic food source to become a problem. If the pipe is made of plastic, or some other non porous material, there will be nothing for the mold to live on. The pipe also needs a slight down hill slope towards the entry to allow condensed water to drain out.
Street T at the far downhill side. Open with a stainless 1/4" screen to a gravel pack on the one side for condensation drain, the intake air assembly on the other and, of course, the tube to the house air handler on the third. I'd be sure to size it so a plumbing snake or maybe a chimney brush can be traversed, or even leave behind a poly rope to use to swab.
plastic is carbon & hydrogen.... it can grow mold. plastic is actually a very good thermal insulator... so using plastic would require you to upsize your system or you just defeated the functionality of it.
A simple rain cap for rain, a series of filters such as found in your current HVAC system for insects, If your intake is raised high enough...there won't be any rodents and even those would have to get by the filter system....add in some 1/4" stainless mesh... As for mold, mildew or what have you, a scheduled maintenance using a swab would go very far to stop or better prevent any such. I'd size it for a chimney brush AND leave behind a poly rope to use to swab with. Probably a little bleach on the swab and you are good.
What about radon? I have a vented pipe from under my foundation that goes up above my roof line with a 24/7 fan running to exhaust radon. Is radon not an issue in other parts of the world? I live in north east USA.
A thin plastic layer STOPS the influx of radon gas. Vapor barrier. Care must be taken during construction to not puncture but it's really easy to avoid. Look up Radon Block.
So you say the underground temperature remains constant, do you really assert that the temp will remain cool and constant when you start pulling warm air through it.
As others have mentioned, this would only work in low humidity environments. Water would build up in the tube, so I would Andre the piping to allow it to drain, and install solar powered uv lights to kill mold and bacteria. Would also put hepa filters and a controller to control a damper and only alllow this to open and run when external conditions are right. It would be like an economizer sequence for air handling equipment
This technique are not applicable in all places around the world but in the tropical country I think it is one of the best thing to do to maintain cold temperature inside the house.
Years ago a building in Australia had this but they included water in the channel so effectively it became an evaporative air conditioner (with the ground air being several degrees cooler).
i'm a builder and I went out to observe a little subdivision being built with this principal's almost 30 years ago in Iowa. I thought it was a brilliant idea at the time. With subsequent follow-up it turned out it was picking up radon and I think it even killed a few people. It was built with the best intentions the builder himself was a really good builder. I've never thought of that but it pumped radon into these houses
🎉 it was a feast to watch your solutions and make it so clear and simple decided that other so I stored it all my own playlist hopefully others will find it too to expand your viewers and thanks for all the work.
so if going to the trouble of digging that deep and setting up that much infrastructure, why not just use a normal heat pump system that can be a closed system and able to operate in more extreme environments?
It isnt rocket science. LOL Rent a backhoe, or ditch witch, trench your back yard Lay a 12" CVPC pipe and go with the flow. Worry about mold and legionnaires disease later.
Looks good on paper. But ever think about how you're supposed to keep the darn think free from dirt and dry leaves and burrowing pests like rats etc? It'll going to get clogged up faster than arteries on a McDonald's diet
The tunnel shouldn’t be very long, just an ordinary waterproof ceramic pipe would do. Plastic isn’t a good heating conductor so it wouldn’t be good, metal is but it could rust. The tunnel should have a service port inside the home, where you can service the ventilation fan and filters. It would be nice if it also had a filter on the other side. A nice option would also be a drainage system on both openings in the house and outside, so if insects or something else goes into the system to nest you can fill it up with high concentrations of chlorine and water for a day or two to eliminate them, then drain it away. You should also have a valve inside the house to close it so the chlorine doesn’t get in the home when you do it. This would also come in handy in winter.
And if water was to make its way into the pipe stopping the airflow would be costly. Not including the mold it would leave behind if you were able to drain the water.
In the U.S. mold can be a problem. I think here, users of this geothermal concept circulate water and then use water to air exchangers. I have only seen this on online forums
In Houston this summer we have had very few days below 100 and humidity around 60%. When the temperature drops to around 90, the humidity is closer to 85%. Without removing the moisture from the air, it feels very uncomfortable. My AC runs way to much during the day and can only drop my humidity to 60%, maybe 56% on a good day. This would not solve out problem
Its not good to directly have under ground air due to radio active radiation and humidity. We need heat exchanger to cool indoor air. Or we can use this air for airconditioner out door unit.
For those who are skeptical of the general principle of the system, this is not actually a new design but is a slight variation of a very effective form of passive cooling that has been in use in larger structures in desert climates for centuries or even millennia.
The scale of the system is different. For instance, the underground pipe would normally be more of a tunnel and the inlet would normally be situated atop a high structure such as a tower or turret, not close to the ground. The system outlet would also be situated up high.
Concerns about insect intrusion are valid but I've never understood why you couldn't just cover the inlet with filter material and grating.
Desert climates tend to be more arid but the aforementioned tunnels often have significant quantities of water inside of them that has condensed and settled out of the air and mold doesn't seem to be a problem for some reason.
Interesting concept.
Even termites use the same general principles to air-condition their mounds.
Yes, the yakhehals of the Middle East have used this principle for 2,000 years. That how it work! 😊
No mold because of very low humidity in the desert
Remove the humidity at one point by angling the Air pipe to a point prior to it going into the building and collecting it there and remove it by pipe out. By creating a hot chimney you move a lot more air humid or not. If you place a desiccant at the front of the Air pipe that allows the Sun or some other heated surface to evaporate the now hotter less moisture dense air into the pipe you can eliminate the moist condensate issue almost entirely.
Radon, hellow
Great idea to have music louder than the narration ! Genius !
I turned off the sound and used sub titles. That volume issue really is odd.
Yeah I agree, I noticed one time the music subsided slightly then when the talking began the music got louder. I got nothing from the words
Why do people always do this, no music is best, youtube already has music videos!
😂😂😂😂
If you cool the air below the dew point moisture will condense in the pipe. The air is full of various spores which will love the dark, cool and moist environment inside this pipe. In order to move air with the least resistance, the pipe will need to be larger and will need something to cause turbulence for the best heat transfer. You also need a structure that is sealed well enough to develop enough stack effect and enough Vacuum to draw air thru this pipe instead of thru every leak in the envelope. IMO, a far better way to do this is to bury water pipe in the ground and circulate water thru it to chill the water and run it thru a fan-coil/radiator. Any condensation will occur at the radiator where it can be dealt with. You can also circulate room air thru it for increased cooling and better climate control. A little more expensive and complex, but all commonly available components…
True, mycotoxins are not to be messed with.
your comment deserves more thumbs up than the video itself. geothermal sounds way better to me
Absolutely true. Beneath the ground, the inside of that pipe will be nasty inside of a year. And the stench and humidity would make the house unlivable.
Great comment, deserve 100 tumbs up! Nobody thinks holistic, as air quality is not just temperature, but humidity and polution. I have personaly experiances some inovative heating and ventilation design where air becomes so dry that after night throat gets bone-dry and burns like hell...
I found this video the shortest with schematic and drawings very interesting thank you. I read this very high scoring reaction and of course it is possible especially down in the ground it could be a like or when filling in the hole the pipe can break and then the soil can contact the air directly and from that it will grow probably something. We need to remind ourselves that we live in buildings where are ventilation is sucked out or Brett blown in by ducting. Saying that the ducting is self cleaning and needs maintenance once in 10 years etc. I changed the layout of my building and clean the ducting inside the house after 28 years for the first time. Despite all these years of negligence there was almost no just and certainly no spider in place it was quite clean. I saw it by the expected inspection with the endoscope and before and after I couldn’t tell the difference. The ducting was off as zinked metal. If someone has problems or hesitation a copper pipe will always be bacterial disinfectant like other materials like linseed oil hardened or liquid. So when you have these plans you can also drain your pipes in line to boil on the inside and spray them. So whether solution or just go with it and air filtering system is just very simple to install every engine manufacturer has their own spare parts and you just get a fair filter and the ducting around it and you have your own filter so I don’t know if you need to worry about moles and that kind of thing. It’s an open system where wind blows through and where this occurs moist will tend to reparate and like in my ducting I never saw anything like moist or water anywhere and this after 28 years heavily intensively using the section of the ventilation system while cooking. Especially in dry air zones it’s not a problem but when you’re in a moist area like an Asian Philippines or Vietnam than that could be different than our filtering system is maybe in place.
Hi, here, in France, we call this a 'puit provencal' or ''puit canadien' (puits= well). We use it since...; roman times. Used in persic golf since... long times, I saw the heat system in ancient korea is similar. The tunnel have to have a of 5°(+-) gradient to allow water and vapor to flow out of the tunnel in order to avoid bacteria or fungus. Tunnel, best build in ... 'terra cotta'. No radon, no infiltration, no bad smells. Concrete has radon isssu. Metal will be 'eaten' in less than a year, PVC can break, develop bateria, bad smells. Best to have the fan in the house, in basement for maintenance. Not necessary to dig 4 meter, it can be effective with 2 meter start (remember, gradient is needed). The size have to be calculated between heat exchange effectiveness air air flow ( to avoid issue and to heat/cool the building with efficientcy).
Here, i saw the system connected to 'heatpump'. it used as a pre treatment of the air (air is already cooled a little in summer, and, already warm in winter, so the sytem have to spend less energy to warm/cool the building.
My uncle, a civil engineer, set up a system at his home in Kansas that was essentially the same. He put it in in 1948 and it still was working flawlessly at his death in 1999. He kept his house at 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit year round without a furnace or air conditioner just a small fan governed by the thermostat.
How about the safety. Since this system have probability being infested by any pest, animal
@@saifulhelmi7944 From what I remember he had a gooseneck pipe coming out of the ground about 5 feet tall with a heavy screen covering the opening. Inside the basement the had a receiver box on the end of the pipe with another screen and a heavy furnace filter that filled the box in front of the squirrel cage fan that fed the breeze into the duct work. I'm not sure how effective it was with mold but he and my aunt seemed pretty healthy. I would imagine he changed the filters pretty often. I never noticed the "storm sewer smell" that regular pipes always had. It didn't have any water infiltration. He didn't use the outside and inline structures shown in the diagram, just a 10 inch (I think) steel pipe that was welded together as it was laid below the frost line and snaked back and forth under the back yard making, I think, 3 loops between the wall of the basement and the gooseneck stand pipe. I'm pretty sure it was laid on a 4 foot wide and 4 foot deep bed of gravel with the same amount over it then backfilled. I was born 3 years after he installed it so I'm not certain of the details, but I asked him about it some.
Wow your uncle is a legend. RIP❤
I live in a commi block in Bulgaria built in about 1978. It has this system. I have not used AC or heating in the 5 years I have lived here
@@saifulhelmi7944
No pests or animals infest this system.
Thank you that's interesting, managed to hear most of your lines in spite of the too loud music.
I saw a similar device in service at Sion National Park in Utah some years back. I am glad to learn how it works and impressed at it's simplicity and efficiency.
Zion.
This tech has been used for centuries and works amazingly well. It is a form of geothermal heating and cooling.
I first saw this system in about 1973 in Texas. They used concrete pipe and the constant air flow kept the air dry. I would put gravel under it and a french drain. The one I saw was 150' long and about 15' about 36" in diameter.
.... so it was a giant upfront cost in comparison to a standard AC.
Rodale's New Shelter Magazine introduced "cooling tubes" for homes back in the early 80's. I remember they spotlighted a home around the Atlanta, GA area. The concern about Legionnaires' disease turned interest away from cooling tubes for passive home cooling. They also had solar chimneys in their design. Great magazine ahead of its time.
Thank you. There are some posts that mention ,what I consider to be important issues, mold, and flooding even radon gas. But interesting idea and nice to see some innovation.
this principle had been used for centuries in the city of Yazd in Iran and actually uses the wind to move the (hot) air coming from the desert surrounding the city to below the house for cooling and then back up to the rooms now cooled. this system is entirely passive and surprisingly efficient. When I was there the temperature outside was very hot but in the houses it was very fresh and pleasant. I am still surprised that it took so long to adopt it in the western countries.
Maybe coz Western countries tend to be less arid than Iran?
@@nunyabiznes33 maybe, but still quite hot in summer, and if wind is not there it is easy to force air with an impeller (that can be solar powered)
@@nunyabiznes33 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
western whatt?? you probably have all your mind filled with millenial mediterranean levant crap like this "invention".
If you can't put a meter on it. We don't want it.
Capitalism at its finest. The goal is to keep you a slave.
There was a time when houses were built with whole house fans that only needed to be run for about twenty minutes in the morning and in the evening.🤷🏿♂️
Marty from homestead rescue has proved that this type of A/C really does work!
He used a 12v muffin fan to move the air through and lots of PVC pipe.
Looks promising. I would suggest raising the opening to much higher. So the air coming in isn't so hot or dusty to begin with. More heat and particles will be closer to the ground. Heat rises of course but will disperse as it rises.
When I was a kid, a friend lived in an underground house, and it was very cool in the summer, and warm in the winter.
Why we still keep building up, rather than down is beyond me.
cheaper? natural light?
@@williansouza8724 aeration?
It is cheaper initially to build above ground, but the benefits of earth sheltered homes are worth it in the long run. But it is difficult to get mortgages, and that keeps the majority of people out of the market.
That is why we built our home ourselves in the Ozarks. It gets natural light from mostly south facing windows. We use that front area as an "orangery" to grow food indoors, all year. The living area gets natural light when needed. I prefer to enjoy natural light outdoors and enjoy LED lighting indoors while cooking, reading, and working anyway.
I live in an area with a lot of radon gas problems, here people question building down as foolish. What is ideal on one location is unwise in another.
@@keithlightminder3005 I believe that is common all over, and the radon has to be planned for and steps taken to reduce the infiltration.
How do you keep mold from growing in the damp underground tube?
yeah I want to know too
Constant air Flow. No mold. Only a little condenswater. Need a Niveau, away from the house.👍🇩🇪
@@RickySupriyadi Yeah...me ,too. Look up 'duct contamination'. Can you say "Legionnaires Disease?"
I also want to know what kind construction should be used to secure the air duct far below the ground, at least it should be able to withstand earth deformation when there are earthquake or flood...
@@thomasschafer7268 Not according to info I ran across about 5 decades ago, mold is a big problem because of the condensate you mention.
I switch on subtitles and that works well. The idea is brilliant
You should take whoever mixed the audio for this presentation behind the woodshed and SCREAM in his ears. What. The. Hell. Was he thinking?
Clearly approach to reduce cooling! Brilliant cooling example! Great way how to stric temperature control. This is objectivity approach underground with influence of water but with respect to both natural and mechanical cooling is ONE OF THE MOST REFRESHONG AND WORTHWHILE FEATURES that I have seen to be ptojected nowdays. Comprehensive approach 🤩
You can build a pond/natural pool, raise salmon in it, etc, and install geothermal under that, and the water would keep it a constant temp of deep enough
Si se perfora la pipa o conducto en la base para que la condensacion de el agua sea absorbida por la tierra..?
The concern I heard of (in Florida specifically) was a concept for the sanitation of the underground pipes. I recommended an RC at the time. That could scrub, and merit UV light.
Try a closed system.
One that recirculates the air from within the structure trough the underground heat exchanger with a regulated opening to introduce fresh air...
Could the pipes be set in a water cistern under the home?
I think I experience this now. I have an enclosed crawlspace and my house stays cool in summer even with little or no AC.
I think this is good for a dry climate building, yet I have a concern about fungus, dirt and condensation within the airline. Could water cooling be applied with the same principle?
Closed loop water cooling.
dont worry you can grow mushrooms inside and place a fungus air filter in your batcave
I've seen similar designs but not quite like this. How do you deal with mold, mildew and bacteria that may find a home in the tunnels?
What causes the colder heavier air to rise into the warmer house? In my house cold air stays in basement.
Interesting and thanks. Another way of saying the same thing is looking into just where or how deep the frost line is in your locality. For those that are interested, there are some sorts of Stirling Engines that will work on temperature differentials of 5 or so degrees C or less. Maybe charge up your cellphone?
How will I clean the pipes?
Finally some one had common sense. And we could use river , lake ocean or buried water tank too
The earth is not 24C, it is more like 15C at that depth.If you have a well or even city water. Just run you tap water for 5 minutes and measure the temp of the water. That will give the temp of the ground.
Mold, mildew fungus...all require an organic food source to become a problem.
If the pipe is made of plastic, or some other non porous material, there will be nothing for the mold to live on.
The pipe also needs a slight down hill slope towards the entry to allow condensed water to drain out.
Street T at the far downhill side. Open with a stainless 1/4" screen to a gravel pack on the one side for condensation drain, the intake air assembly on the other and, of course, the tube to the house air handler on the third. I'd be sure to size it so a plumbing snake or maybe a chimney brush can be traversed, or even leave behind a poly rope to use to swab.
plastic is carbon & hydrogen.... it can grow mold.
plastic is actually a very good thermal insulator... so using plastic would require you to upsize your system or you just defeated the functionality of it.
...and pipes remain clean and healthy in such dark and wet environment. Legionela hazard?
how much pipe is needed to cool the air?? like 50ft or something?
this would be a good challenge. but how do you keep away rain, condensation, molds, and rats?
you could use an industrial dehumidifier to remove the the water first, purify it...and use it for drinking water. get 2 use's out of it
A simple rain cap for rain, a series of filters such as found in your current HVAC system for insects, If your intake is raised high enough...there won't be any rodents and even those would have to get by the filter system....add in some 1/4" stainless mesh...
As for mold, mildew or what have you, a scheduled maintenance using a swab would go very far to stop or better prevent any such. I'd size it for a chimney brush AND leave behind a poly rope to use to swab with. Probably a little bleach on the swab and you are good.
everything is very good. I have not found the answer to the question: how is load-bearing capacity ensured?
Can i buried the tunnel under water or under the soil beneath a pond?
WHY IS YOR BACKGROUND MUSIC SO LOUD? I JUST STOPPED LISTENING TO YOUR PRESENTATION AND LEAVE
WHAT DID YOU SAY? I can’t hear your comment over the background music.
Totally agree. Very irritating . Pls stop the unnessery music
i turn the audio of...
@@TheClasax then you can’t hear the narrative.
@@MattnUska but I can see clearly what you think about the tech
What about radon? I have a vented pipe from under my foundation that goes up above my roof line with a 24/7 fan running to exhaust radon. Is radon not an issue in other parts of the world? I live in north east USA.
A thin plastic layer STOPS the influx of radon gas. Vapor barrier. Care must be taken during construction to not puncture but it's really easy to avoid. Look up Radon Block.
So you say the underground temperature remains constant, do you really assert that the temp will remain cool and constant when you start pulling warm air through it.
As others have mentioned, this would only work in low humidity environments. Water would build up in the tube, so I would Andre the piping to allow it to drain, and install solar powered uv lights to kill mold and bacteria. Would also put hepa filters and a controller to control a damper and only alllow this to open and run when external conditions are right. It would be like an economizer sequence for air handling equipment
how do you clean after a long of use?
humidity problems?
A very interesting video that would be much better without that ugly annoying background music. You could at least tone down the music a little.
what i do concerning are the Radon gas from the soil induces in the living area , not the best ideas to me
Any technical references please? Something that can be used for putting together a detailed design? thank you
What about keeping critters out?
This technique are not applicable in all places around the world but in the tropical country I think it is one of the best thing to do to maintain cold temperature inside the house.
Will it improves the moisture if we put a blower in the air inlet??
The music was too load, unneeded. I had to turn it off, turn on subtitles. The Persians solved this problem 2000 years ago.
It seems it would be more efficient to recirculate the air that has already been cooled or heated.
Years ago a building in Australia had this but they included water in the channel so effectively it became an evaporative air conditioner (with the ground air being several degrees cooler).
What happens to water discharge due to condensation?
i'm a builder and I went out to observe a little subdivision being built with this principal's almost 30 years ago in Iowa. I thought it was a brilliant idea at the time. With subsequent follow-up it turned out it was picking up radon and I think it even killed a few people. It was built with the best intentions the builder himself was a really good builder. I've never thought of that but it pumped radon into these houses
That's terrible but Yeah, I guess this isn't a good idea in just any place.
what is a radon?
@@rizkyadiyanto7922 www.epa.gov/radon/what-radon
@@rizkyadiyanto7922 what is a search engine?
Uranium gas...causes cancer
just how are you going to do the maintenance...cleaning... insects...rats or miice...snake etc
Could the air intake work more efficently if the vent were solar powered with an fan ?.
Gerard.
This is interesting and actually very effective
sir it is good. india will be number one scientific and technical content creator sir
Great idea except for mold and condensation.
you could use an industrial dehumidifier to remove the the water first, purify it...and use it for drinking water. get 2 use's out of it
This would seem to make sense for an HRV intake in extremely cold climates- take in 55 degree air vs -20
How do you prevent condensation?
Rat and ant would love this tunnel❤😂
So tell me about Radon Gas
What about radon?
Tôi thích nội dung này.
🎉 it was a feast to watch your solutions and make it so clear and simple decided that other so I stored it all my own playlist hopefully others will find it too to expand your viewers and thanks for all the work.
Great information, thanks 👍😅
Excelente para grandes propiedades, ramchos, universidades, cerradas etc...
Does it invite any intruder inside likeninsects mice ,and snakes?..
Mold in tunnel?
Metal exchanges energy better than pvc. Metal performs cool to heat transfer better than pvc. I think metal would be more efficient.
copper is best...PVC is cheaper.
@@gothboschincarnate3931 if your gonna use pvc.... just shitcan the system
I wonder how the air quality is. Can you say Radon?
What about the risk of the corrosion with the tube if we use galv pipe?
ou could use an industrial dehumidifier to remove the the water first, purify it...and use it for drinking water. get 2 use's out of it
Can is use this system in 8-25% humidity with 45°-48°c temp??? I am from india's dry Hottest climate??
Radon probems, what's solution?
I never searched for this UA-cam just put this in my search history
is it passive?
so if going to the trouble of digging that deep and setting up that much infrastructure, why not just use a normal heat pump system that can be a closed system and able to operate in more extreme environments?
What about Radon?
Where can I get MUCH more information about this? I want to have this in my house. Thanks
Look into Burjeel cooling towers instead.
In germany the Name is "Erdwärmetauscher"
It isnt rocket science. LOL Rent a backhoe, or ditch witch, trench your back yard Lay a 12" CVPC pipe and go with the flow. Worry about mold and legionnaires disease later.
Looks good on paper. But ever think about how you're supposed to keep the darn think free from dirt and dry leaves and burrowing pests like rats etc? It'll going to get clogged up faster than arteries on a McDonald's diet
There's this thing called a screen... Or grate... or mesh...
You’re right...so that will be your job to figure out 😊.
ส่วนเรื่องโฮมทูปนี่ไม่รู้เขาหวงหรือเปล่า พอไปคิดไปทำตามหาว่าไปละเมิดลิขสิทธิ์เขาอีก
เป็นว่าต้องปรับปรุ่งเพิ่มตรง อาศัยหลักการ ลมร้อนย่อมลอยขึ้นที่สูงกว่า ต้องทำท่อลมร้อนลอยขึ้นที่สูงและเกิดแรงดูดลมเย็นใต้ดิน 24องศาเซลเซียส นับว่าจะประหยัดพลังงานมาก
กับอีกอย่างใช้ต้นไม่ที่ไอ้สัตวชิรามาโค่นต้นไม้รอบบ้านผม
รากไม้ก็รับน้ำใต้ดิน24องศาเช่นกัน และค่อยๆคลายไอชื้นปกคลุมรอบบ้านไว้ทั้งวันและใบไม้ยังพลางแสงลดความร้อนด้วย
ผ่านไปสิบปีเราตัดต้นไม่มาทำบ้านได้ด้วย ผลไม้ใช้บริโภค ใบไม้ทำปุ๋ย นี่เป็นวิถีของธรรมชาติ
แต่ความชื้นสัมพัทธ์ของสิ่งแวดล้อมในย่านที่จะทำให้ร่มเย็นสำคัญ ต้องสร้างผืนป่ารอบล้อมด้วย ต้องมีแหล่งน้ำขนาดใหญ่รองรับด้วย และจำนวนผู้บริโภคต้องไม่ปล่อยของเสียคือมลพิษเกินอัตราที่ระบบในพื้นที่นั้นจะรับได้ สิ่งนี้คือวิชา สุขาภิบาล ที่ผมเคยไปเรียนกับบในหลวงภูมิพลสิบห้าปีที่แล้ว
good one easy to undestand endeed
Oui. Mais que faites-VOUS de l’eau boueuse dans les canalisations ?😲🤔
my great gramps house still has one of these set up, been there for about 60 years
Nah. Those are insignificant "savings" for an expensive infrastructure.
The tunnel shouldn’t be very long, just an ordinary waterproof ceramic pipe would do.
Plastic isn’t a good heating conductor so it wouldn’t be good, metal is but it could rust.
The tunnel should have a service port inside the home, where you can service the ventilation fan and filters.
It would be nice if it also had a filter on the other side.
A nice option would also be a drainage system on both openings in the house and outside, so if insects or something else goes into the system to nest you can fill it up with high concentrations of chlorine and water for a day or two to eliminate them, then drain it away. You should also have a valve inside the house to close it so the chlorine doesn’t get in the home when you do it.
This would also come in handy in winter.
And if water was to make its way into the pipe stopping the airflow would be costly. Not including the mold it would leave behind if you were able to drain the water.
In the U.S. mold can be a problem. I think here, users of this geothermal concept circulate water and then use water to air exchangers. I have only seen this on online forums
In Houston this summer we have had very few days below 100 and humidity around 60%. When the temperature drops to around 90, the humidity is closer to 85%. Without removing the moisture from the air, it feels very uncomfortable. My AC runs way to much during the day and can only drop my humidity to 60%, maybe 56% on a good day. This would not solve out problem
At 0:32, reduces consumption of what by 15%? And "how it work_s_".
Its not good to directly have under ground air due to radio active radiation and humidity. We need heat exchanger to cool indoor air. Or we can use this air for airconditioner out door unit.
This is how a ground source aka geothermal heat pump works. But sealed though and it uses a fluid not air.
It's also very effective at adding mold and mildew to your environment when the humidity in your air condenses in the tube
Channel name checks out
Thank you for the informative video.
Without the superfluous, distracting, annoying music it would be even better!
This is smart!
That will NOT work here in Florida in the summer, its hell here. Thank goodness for the 5 months of cooler weather now.
The best air tunnel is the one that is submerged in subterranean water and with a type of aluminum honeycomb to better cool the air.