TR6 - Rotten Frame Repair - part1 - Trailing Arm Support
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- Опубліковано 10 лют 2025
- The frame is a very weak spot for our 50 years old cars and especially the trailing arm supports. I made a jig years ago to help me in positioning the repair sections. Let me show it how I use it.
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I don’t even need to do a frame repair but I watched the whole thing…fascinating! Thanks!
I remember that jig. This was a very interesting and useful video for rescuing the frame of almost any classical (British) car. Thanks Elin!
Long videos are good. Keep up the great uploads
I like the long videos. Thanks for all the details. Great job!
Dear Elin, I had the same gaps of the arm for my TR4a , thanks for all the great and funny video's :)
cheers, Michael
Great job Charles, from Houston, Texas
Great video! I like the length of it just fine. I’m thankful that I don’t have to do this to my Spitfire but really enjoyed watching anyway.
I liked the length and detail of this video Elin from start to finish.
Great video! Hey, the longer the better. Thanks
Some years ago I did the same repair on a Tr6. Interestingly I ran into EXACTLY the same minor discrepancies with the fitment of the trailng arm supports as you have. I also remedied the gaps the same way as you have.
As it was a one off repair I didn't make a jig but used a template and reference marks scribed on the chassis along with other careful measurements which I maintained . It all worked out well. The correct wheel alignment was achieved with no problems.
Good to watch how you tackled the job, very intersting. Your understanding and knowledge shows through.
thanks Elin. Very instructive. Both you and the Chef are very good MIG welders. Something for me to aim for. John in Manitoba.
Really useful video, please keep doing these detailed repairs.
great video Elin ! The two inner rails are a different box section size by Design to the two outer rails , this is why you have an 1/8th (top and bottom) of a difference which is correct.
Hi Elin! I am happy that you are back at work. At the moment I am enjoying a cup of coffee in a Rusty Beauties mug while wearing my Rusty Beauties t-shirt.
I think your on the right track with your portable jig. Do think you might want to tie to the opposite side (using three points to keep the location of the trailing arm frame that you're replacing. Good your maintaining the geometry on one side, but another arm to the other side should insure the repair semirical to the frame centerline. Still a whole lot better it than it was for sure.
never had electric saws in my day what a great investment in time and money. Hacksaw and junior saw was all I had, I was a lot stronger in the 70's
Looking good!
Love the jig. Nice.
Nice work Elin! I wish my frame had been better. The car had been in a garage with a gravel floor (very damp). The whole bottom of the frame was in the same condition as the trailing arm supports on the frame in your video. I couldn't find a replacement so I ended up buying a RATCO frame. I'm still working on the body so I can't comment on the frame other than it's very nice looking and appears to be very sturdy.
Thanks for thinking about us the viewers. It was a great video and as you mention the pieces used to be too long. When I took my first side off I had to measure the distance to the holes on the opposite side because the new one was way to long and with the jig I couldn't get it in far enough to even estimate what to cut off where. I had to cut both ends bit by bit until it slipped in and the mounting holes matched. Second side was way easier. That jig work really well. I didn't trust my ability to weld the frame at that point and hired a mobile welder who was impressed with the jig and the way we ensured the parts were in exactly the right place. Thanks and Take care.
Back to the grind after a vacation is always hard. Maybe a plasma cutter would be something to get into tighter spots. I have been looking into the 4 in 1 units that are Mig - tig - stick - Plasma but just the plasma cutting units are fairly cheep. Great video!!
Nice to bring back the jig. I need to get to my replacement frame which needs the same repairs. I was thinking of how many videos I would need to scan to find your original video on the frame jig. Back then I thought it was genius.
Hello Elin, about the fact that the two center portion of the frame are 1/8 lower than the outside portion, it is normal because the center portion are thinner by around 3/16 compare to the exterior portion. I suppose that the reason for it because the interior section of the frame need to be inserted into the exterior members at their end.
Very nice work
Love the longer videos
Excellent video again Elin, also looking forward to part 2. I purchase one of the differential pins from TRGB my spitfire one of the pins the threaded part has been sheared off. So watching this being done correctly. I remember you doing the reinforcing repair previously.
Very interesting video. I can see the value of making jigs to ensure proper alignment of parts. Never thought about using a needle scaler to clean parts. Can’t wait to see you attack the TR3 in a similar way.
Great and very informative video Elin.. Hope you enjoyed your holiday break as it's well & truly back to the grindstone with this frame. You illustrate perfectly here the value of having a jig for this type of work. Looking forward to part 2 ..
Good work my friend always enjoy your videos. Cheers.
Rust needle scaler reminds me of my dentist. Ow. Nice job.
Glad to see you came home to work again! With both you and David gone I was quite bored so I did some work on my own TR6. I suppose I got very lucky when I found a frame several years ago, I did not need much work at all.
Nice job. I'm a few days from doing one in my shop as well. It's nice to see other ideas.
TR-6 AKA rust bucket. The replacement parts look thinner than the og’s, but still better than the rusted junk.
Nice job but did you paint/ rust treatment inside the box section before welding. And it would be nice to see what size Mig wire you use ? 👍
Haha finger in 😂, thx for a good long video
Great job Elin. Quick question, do you own a finger belt sander? I have an air-powered 10mm one, which is OK, but knocks the hell out of the compressor, so I bought a 12mm electric one. It is vari-speed, and was only about £50 here in the UK, and it is the best £50 I have ever spent. You could have got inside that box section no problem, and the quality of finished welds is just perfect, particularly plug welds. I use 60 grit Zirconium belts by the way.
It's never too long Elin thank's :-) Can you touch a word about wich product to inject in chassis? Only wax or "anti-rust - waterwash - wax"?
"I cut this bracket twice and it's still too short."
Very nice work. Amazes me how these old frames turn to swiss cheese. So... Honestly - is there any aspect of Triumph repair/restoration you are unwilling to tackle? 🙂...Other than the machine shop tasks you are unequipped to do, of course.
Do you treat the insides of those sections at all?
Silly question: do you remove the paint before welding? I can't tell from here but it kinda looks like you don't.
The customer will still have sooooo much work grinding, painting and waxing the frame. We did a lot of repair work on a Land Rover Series frame and we spent so, SO many hours just grinding the old paint and rust and dirt off...
Having used needle scalers a lot I couldn't believe you could stand it with no ear protection! It's painfully loud for me!
What kind of car is the gray primer one in the background? On the left-hand side of the shop?
It is a 1972 Triumph GT6. There is a playlist on my channel about it.
@@RustyBeauties Awesome.
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Welcome home Elin, was that Thailand in you holiday video?
Anyway, missed your videos, lets get crackalacking
What kind of fish do you catch in the garage pond? Do they eat packing papers??
I don’t think there is anyone in the states that would take on such a difficult job you need to clone yourself in order to do all your jobs
English cars were not very precise. A friend of mine restored a Morgan, and had to make new doors. I will just make both sides at the same time, he thought, and copy the measurements from one side to the other. Turns out that one door was half an inch longer, than the other! Also, aftermarket panels/repair pieces are not always very precise, so you have double up on possibilities of errors.
I think the video should be like 2 hours long and get the whole thing done good job. E
Zoom zoom 😊
The rotten TR6 frame is a real problem. You're never going to get your money back. You can get whole new frames. Never get out of the boat unless you're going all the way.
Complain about long videos? Free tutorials from a pro and that's a complaint? Good grief!
I realize that this frame is better than the taco frame, but when do you decide to give up and look for a donor frame?
That frame is crack-a-lacking! Does anyone make new ones?
Has matter of fact there is. A company called RATCO offer a complete new upgraded chassis that addresses the known weak points. It also offers other products for the TR cars.
Ah, the joys of reproduction parts.