Thanks David I think this will help a lot of people wanting to look for a Triumph in the future. I wish i knew what I know now that I have had mine for 25 years.
Long ago, mid/late '70's , I owned a '67 TR5 PI. My friend liked it so much that he decided to get one too. One day, we went to look at a likely candidate. It looked lovely in Signal Red. We had a brief look around the car, and my friend got to chatting with the owner about how great these cars were, etc, etc. To look busy, I checked some more round the car. I put my hand up under the inside rear of the front wheel arch, towards the flitch panel. When I put my hand on the panel, and pushed slightly on it, the whole thing fell apart, and my hand and half my arm went straight through. Apart from anything else, I didn't think the owner would be too pleased, so when the guy went indoors to get the documents etc, I said to my friend.. " I think we'd better go now, I've just put my hand through this..., " and indicated the new pile of rust that had dropped on the ground. We got into my car and drove rapidly away.
Good instructional walk-thru, Chef. I don't think I've seen this complete of an explanation of the problem areas on the rumph' frames. Thought I'd mention that depending on the damage, a potential buyer could get "under-water" with frame repairs if they take it to a welding shop but as an alternative, complete new frames are available from a few sources. Cheers!
It’s a new to me ingersoll compressor 😉 I’m going to try it out for painting. The larger 60 gallon compressor runs very hot and creates lots of moisture…so much that it freezes up my air dryer…
Couldn't have come across this at a better time! I'm in the market for a TR6 and i've been seeing some forums and discussions about rust, rot, and the general weaknesses of the frame. While i'm looking around, i will keep coming back to this video to make sure i know how to tell the good from the bad (and worse). Keep up the great work from north of the border. BTW, i love your 73.
Excellent video! Bought a 1968 TR5 in 1978 in England. I didn't know much at all about them back then and was taken by the owner. Found out the hard way. Rear diff mount had cracked and worse still was the engine thrust washers had worn and dropped into the sump. I bought a sound short block and fitted it myself and fired it up on the third attempt. Loved that car. Even then it was a head turner. Hankering after another ever since but too many shifty buggers are out there!
For a novice just looking for first time- thank you for showing me in a way that makes sense! I now know what a trailing arm means! So much expertise on these things that I have no clue about!
Excellent video! When I was first shopping for a TR4A, I inspected an IRS car that looked very good. Until I looked under the frame. There were massive rust holes near the trailing arm mounts. I passed on the car (finally getting a solid axle TR4A instead). So frame inspections are critical on these cars!
Love your videos I have had 2 triumphs a tr6 and a gt6 and worked on both of them myself soon hopefully will be getting another thank you and keep up the good work
I was sooo lucky to find my TR6. Total impulse buy, but my quick look under the car found nothing but dry surface rust here and there, and cobwebs. And in the middle, lots of oil LOL! If my Alfa hadn't been in the shop months longer than promised, I might not have bought the TR6. Such a cool car, and stout if you start from a solid example.
Wow I did not know this company made such weak frames. Very disappointing. Great video and such an eye opener. Still love the look of the car and may buy one someday. A friend owned a new one in 1976 and it was so fun to ride in. Fond memories.
I think every vehicle built ( even today) have some kind of issues that the engineers overlooked when designing/building. If you are buying one, try and buy from an area that is warm and dry like California or Arizona etc…I purchased my 73 TR6 from Alamo, California and imported it up to Canada for example.
Hey Chef - if you're not an expert, you're doing a pretty fair job of sounding like one..:-) .. It occured to me that if you are inspecting any old TR (4, 4A, 250 or 6) chassis - particularly on a car that doesn't have receipts for a chassis repair job or hasn't been otherwise restored - and it has been conveniently painted up and has nice new stoneguard all over it, it would probably save you a lot of anguish and expense if you either had it professionally checked over or walked away.. You can hide a lot of very expensive damage behind some really cheap bondo and paint...
An indicator of frame problems on a TR6 would be door gaps. I just inspected a TR6 offered for sale as "restored" that had compromised door gaps. The front gap of both doors was 3/16ths of an inch.. top to bottom. The rear of both doors was was over 1/2 inch at the top and 3/16ths " at the bottom. No way to stretch a door.. had to be in the frame. Likely from a rear end collision .. or long time storage with doors off and no braces. I delclined the opportunity to dismantle the car and fix it.
@@cheftush The "restoration" of this car did not include "body" off. There were other indicators that this was a car that had 20 years of inelegant repairs, not a "restoration".
Howdy! As always I love your content. Did you see I got hacked and lost all of my years of content? I'd hate for that to happen to you or any of our kind so keep safe on passwords. I'm trying to rebuild, and I know it happens. As always I learn from your videos. Bobby
Good stuff...I guess, lol. Now you have me worried about the condition of mine. Are you going to repair this one? If so, video would be great! Thanks, Tush Meister.
Thank you, Chef!!! Chances are, after half a century, most TR restorations will need to be done with body off I've seen endless "classic" used car dealers featuring TR6's at concourse prices ($40k+) with immaculate undercoating everywhere, including the trailing arms Underside appearing to be a unibody
Wish I had this video when I bought my tr6 - you may have mentioned in a previous video,where are the correct spots on the frame for jack stands - thanks
Me too Al…I bought my first TR6 about 30 years ago and didn’t inspect the frame for damage and paid the price! For jackstand placement here is what I do. At the front, I will place jackstands at the rear bolt up location for the front lower control arms. At the rear, I’ll position stands in the area between where the two differential carriers are located. I wouldn’t position stands any further back than where the rear differential carrier meets the frame at the sides. As always, I suggest to use a couple of safety stands just shy of touching the frame rails somewhere in the center of the car on the outside frame rails. I also leave my jacks ( I use two matching ones to jack up the car) just shy of touching the frame rails …on opposite sides of the car..one at the front and one at the rear. May sound like overkill, but if I am getting under the car I’d rather be safe than sorry.
@@cheftush Good advice. Last year here in Oregon, a car fell on it's owner and he was very lucky someone in the street was able to call 911 then rush over to help him. He was only using the jack, and it collapsed.
Good information David thanks for sharing. Would that frame belong to Les and if so when is that resto planned to start? Thanks again for all of your great videos.
Hi Michael, yes it does belong to Les. This frame is on its way to another Triumph owner to be repaired. Les has 2 other frames to work with on his restoration. I don’t expect we will see much progress on Les’s car for the foreseeable future….
Chef Tush is an expert. He is just modest. I think the reinforcing gussets for the front suspension came in on the 1972. But the rear transmission mount changed on the 73 when they went to the J-type Overdrive.
Exceptional video, thank you!!! Watch this video before you buy a TR6!!!
Thanks David I think this will help a lot of people wanting to look for a Triumph in the future. I wish i knew what I know now that I have had mine for 25 years.
Long ago, mid/late '70's , I owned a '67 TR5 PI. My friend liked it so much that he decided to get one too. One day, we went to look at a likely candidate. It looked lovely in Signal Red. We had a brief look around the car, and my friend got to chatting with the owner about how great these cars were, etc, etc. To look busy, I checked some more round the car. I put my hand up under the inside rear of the front wheel arch, towards the flitch panel. When I put my hand on the panel, and pushed slightly on it, the whole thing fell apart, and my hand and half my arm went straight through. Apart from anything else, I didn't think the owner would be too pleased, so when the guy went indoors to get the documents etc, I said to my friend.. " I think we'd better go now, I've just put my hand through this..., " and indicated the new pile of rust that had dropped on the ground. We got into my car and drove rapidly away.
Yes, they can be pretty Rusty!
I wish I had you with me when I looked at mine! See my post above for details.
Good instructional walk-thru, Chef. I don't think I've seen this complete of an explanation of the problem areas on the rumph' frames. Thought I'd mention that depending on the damage, a potential buyer could get "under-water" with frame repairs if they take it to a welding shop but as an alternative, complete new frames are available from a few sources. Cheers!
Yes, I should have mentioned the RATCO option! You are correct. I’ll put it in the description field at least. Thanks for the input.
Not a triumph expert,,,,,just play one on UA-cam 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 you are a wealth of knowledge sir
Is that a new ingersoll rand compressor??
It’s a new to me ingersoll compressor 😉 I’m going to try it out for painting. The larger 60 gallon compressor runs very hot and creates lots of moisture…so much that it freezes up my air dryer…
You and Elin are the experts🏁👍
Couldn't have come across this at a better time! I'm in the market for a TR6 and i've been seeing some forums and discussions about rust, rot, and the general weaknesses of the frame. While i'm looking around, i will keep coming back to this video to make sure i know how to tell the good from the bad (and worse). Keep up the great work from north of the border. BTW, i love your 73.
Thanks Russ, good luck with your search.
Brilliant video! I'm going to look at 2 TR6's tomorrow, I feel much more confident now!
Good luck Ted.
Excellent video!
Bought a 1968 TR5 in 1978 in England. I didn't know much at all about them back then and was taken by the owner. Found out the hard way. Rear diff mount had cracked and worse still was the engine thrust washers had worn and dropped into the sump. I bought a sound short block and fitted it myself and fired it up on the third attempt.
Loved that car. Even then it was a head turner. Hankering after another ever since but too many shifty buggers are out there!
For a novice just looking for first time- thank you for showing me in a way that makes sense! I now know what a trailing arm means! So much expertise on these things that I have no clue about!
My pleasure Robert.
Well done Chef in the true spirit of helpful Public Broadcasting. as always buyer beware.
Excellent video! When I was first shopping for a TR4A, I inspected an IRS car that looked very good. Until I looked under the frame. There were massive rust holes near the trailing arm mounts. I passed on the car (finally getting a solid axle TR4A instead). So frame inspections are critical on these cars!
Thanks for the excellent discussion on the frame. It's good to let people know what they can get into if they are not aware of the pitfalls.
Love your videos I have had 2 triumphs a tr6 and a gt6 and worked on both of them myself soon hopefully will be getting another thank you and keep up the good work
Great information David. Thank you
Thanks for the detailed tour.
Ready to be resurrected 😉
I was sooo lucky to find my TR6. Total impulse buy, but my quick look under the car found nothing but dry surface rust here and there, and cobwebs. And in the middle, lots of oil LOL! If my Alfa hadn't been in the shop months longer than promised, I might not have bought the TR6. Such a cool car, and stout if you start from a solid example.
As thanks Tush for the great details. This will come in handy when I get to the 72 TR6.
Really excellent advice David. I just wish I had seen this eight years ago!
Nicely done Chef! Thank you for sharing this!
Nicely explained David, well done very informative. Kind regards, Richard.
Thanks Chef. A well thought out video. Very informative for a classic newbie such as myself.
Your Welcome Tom.
Great video. A public service announcement if I've ever seen one.
Great video. Must have missed it when you first downloaded it. Lots of good info!
Thank You Dennis.
Thank you for sharing this important video !
Hi Dave, great info, but super scary if you’re looking to buy 😂😂🤪
Nice info. I think I’ll do something like this when I get the DeLorean off its frame.
Wow I did not know this company made such weak frames. Very disappointing. Great video and such an eye opener. Still love the look of the car and may buy one someday. A friend owned a new one in 1976 and it was so fun to ride in. Fond memories.
I think every vehicle built ( even today) have some kind of issues that the engineers overlooked when designing/building. If you are buying one, try and buy from an area that is warm and dry like California or Arizona etc…I purchased my 73 TR6 from Alamo, California and imported it up to Canada for example.
Modern cars last in average 10, so these tr many over 50 is incredible. In reality it’s not a lot to fix them up for another 50 years
Thanks for the overview! Man, some of those factory welds are awful......
Hey Chef - if you're not an expert, you're doing a pretty fair job of sounding like one..:-) .. It occured to me that if you are inspecting any old TR (4, 4A, 250 or 6) chassis - particularly on a car that doesn't have receipts for a chassis repair job or hasn't been otherwise restored - and it has been conveniently painted up and has nice new stoneguard all over it, it would probably save you a lot of anguish and expense if you either had it professionally checked over or walked away.. You can hide a lot of very expensive damage behind some really cheap bondo and paint...
An indicator of frame problems on a TR6 would be door gaps.
I just inspected a TR6 offered for sale as "restored" that had compromised door gaps.
The front gap of both doors was 3/16ths of an inch.. top to bottom. The rear of both doors was was over 1/2 inch at the top and 3/16ths " at the bottom. No way to stretch a door.. had to be in the frame. Likely from a rear end collision .. or long time storage with doors off and no braces. I delclined the opportunity to dismantle the car and fix it.
It can be Jeff but quite a few times it can be to improper shimming and panel fitting after a restoration or repair as well.
@@cheftush The "restoration" of this car did not include "body" off. There were other indicators that this was a car that had 20 years of inelegant repairs, not a "restoration".
Howdy! As always I love your content. Did you see I got hacked and lost all of my years of content? I'd hate for that to happen to you or any of our kind so keep safe on passwords. I'm trying to rebuild, and I know it happens. As always I learn from your videos. Bobby
Im a member of the TR REGISTER. I recommend any Tr fan to join
Hi Andy, I visit the TR Register Forum and have contributed to some discussions there.
Good stuff...I guess, lol. Now you have me worried about the condition of mine. Are you going to repair this one? If so, video would be great! Thanks, Tush Meister.
This one is going to help out another TR6 owner who will repair it. I’ll be sure to video the next time I work on one.
That was really interesting and I have a TR4!
Thank you, Chef!!!
Chances are, after half a century, most TR restorations will need to be done with body off
I've seen endless "classic" used car dealers featuring TR6's at concourse prices ($40k+) with immaculate undercoating everywhere, including the trailing arms
Underside appearing to be a unibody
thanks a lot, very interesting
the best frame to show the weak areas
Terrific video. Thank you!!
Thanks Matt
Wish I had this video when I bought my tr6 - you may have mentioned in a previous video,where are the correct spots on the frame for jack stands - thanks
Me too Al…I bought my first TR6 about 30 years ago and didn’t inspect the frame for damage and paid the price! For jackstand placement here is what I do. At the front, I will place jackstands at the rear bolt up location for the front lower control arms. At the rear, I’ll position stands in the area between where the two differential carriers are located. I wouldn’t position stands any further back than where the rear differential carrier meets the frame at the sides. As always, I suggest to use a couple of safety stands just shy of touching the frame rails somewhere in the center of the car on the outside frame rails. I also leave my jacks ( I use two matching ones to jack up the car) just shy of touching the frame rails …on opposite sides of the car..one at the front and one at the rear. May sound like overkill, but if I am getting under the car I’d rather be safe than sorry.
@@cheftush Good advice. Last year here in Oregon, a car fell on it's owner and he was very lucky someone in the street was able to call 911 then rush over to help him. He was only using the jack, and it collapsed.
@@jamcdona I couldn’t imagine a worse way to go
@@cheftush I know, right? Especially if no one was around. Ranks up there with being in a submarine at crush depth, for me...
Good information David thanks for sharing. Would that frame belong to Les and if so when is that resto planned to start? Thanks again for all of your great videos.
Hi Michael, yes it does belong to Les. This frame is on its way to another Triumph owner to be repaired. Les has 2 other frames to work with on his restoration. I don’t expect we will see much progress on Les’s car for the foreseeable future….
@@cheftush thanks for the prompt response looking forward to more videos
What does irs stand for?
Independent rear suspension
TR4A were IRS in some cases. Very similar to the TR250 and TR6. Early TR4's were solid rear axle. Much nicer ride with IRS
first!!
"Not a TR expert" - really? Chef if you're not an expert on TRs then the rest of us have no chance!
If your not a Triumph expert Then none exist.
Chef Tush is an expert. He is just modest. I think the reinforcing gussets for the front suspension came in on the 1972. But the rear transmission mount changed on the 73 when they went to the J-type Overdrive.