This is a business where years of experience teaches you mistakes and ways to visualize what will happen. A good understanding of the unique properties of the tree (wood), that you are working with is also important. What wood hinges, what woods break quickly etc. knowing your wood lets you work the wood with an expectation rather than a guess.
EasyOff oven cleaner will clean the bar and chain, but it also strips all the oil from the chain. Spray it on, let it set 10 minutes and wash off with water. Re-oil chain before continuing.
@@arboristBlairGlenn -- You had to do so much work -- evaluate the situation, build that A frame, remove the parts of the tree that were resting on or hanging over the house, then remove parts of the trunk that threatened the deck, removing the A frame in order to cut up the remainder of the trunk -- and the wood was like concrete (as oak often is). It was like removing a ship from inside a bottle. What an ordeal. But patience and persistence wins. 👍
Great job blair and jorge 👏 👍 im bet you're sure glad thats a wrap on this 1 😅 thanks for the video 📹 have a pleasant weekend my friend take care...Benny from southern California !
Live oaks are amazing. I loved having them around when I lived in Texas. That’s a huge pile of BTUs for the homeowner to burn through. If you timed the swings just right, you could have left them with some venison, too.
@@arboristBlairGlenn it may take some time people will see that your life as a tree person is amazing and you are very real about your work in arbor culture
Pretty much anything on a bar I deal with is pine related, so no help from me on buildup removal. Other than probably getting a painters razor blade window scraper, that would take it off pretty quick.
Excellent content as always! I can't believe the new chain got buggered up that much from a few cuts on the live oak, ouch, sorry about the metal. Maybe try a flat razor blade tool for the bar, the one that is used for scraping paint off window edges? That A frame is pretty sweet trick, i love all tour strategies and creative thinking on this job
Wax/resin based "gunk" dissolves in polar solvents like ethanol or acetone. Lignin gunk dissolves in 1%-4% Caustic soda in hot water. Please remember gloves and glasses, preferably a face shield & a butchers plastic apron for the caustic, in both cases. And have a plan on how to flush your eyes or skin in a second if you use Caustic.
Have you tried anything containing orange oil to clean the bar? It's just a guess, but orange oil seems to be pretty effective for removing different kinds of build-up. As far as mechanical removal, maybe a wire brush on your drill? I don't know if you'd risk damaging the bar or chain that way, though...
@@arboristBlairGlenn I would be inclined to try this one. I use sap zappr, which is available through most arb suppliers. It may be something that you need to leave on it for a minute or so before trying to clean it.
Maybe you could use a thin metal, sharp, 1 inch spackle knife to scrape off the gunked up bar? Spraying it first with some solvent and letting it sit for five minutes before scraping would also help.
Bar oil is just canola oil with an additive to make the oil stickier to "keep the chain in the bar" according to manufacturers. I don't like all the gunk it attracts to the bar either. I purchase plain canola oil in bulk from Costco and use it in all my chainsaws. Stihl 462, 201, and 161T. Been doing this for over 5 years and never had a problem and a much cleaner bar and chain.
My only guess on the saw buildup would be to use the same liquid cleaner that they recommend for cleaning woodworking blades of the sap buildup...problem is that is not as fast acting as the scraping, so you may just want to get a 'junk/beat up' carbide scraper like we use for paint/glue cleanup on woodworking to see if that helps scrape it off the saw faster...obviously as I am sure you know (but others reading may not), don't push hard enough to scrape off the blade paint/metal, but that might work faster to clean up the surface residue than a pocket knife. Were the bees honey bees? or one of the other bee types? Also, I know for woodworking, they make the more expensive carbide tooth bandsaw blades for doing bandsaw cuts (either on the sawmills or home shop), do they make carbide tip chainsaw blades? I am guessing they would, but since those would be much harder to field sharpen...would not be what you want to use normally. Maybe it would be worth keeping one in the truck in case you know you have a tree with metal in, and only use it then. Regardless, this was a fun series to watch. :)
Thanks for commenting Joesph. Honey bees yes. Carbide chains are available but expensive and a bear to sharpen. Most pros don’t use them because a really sharp chain is so much better than just a “pretty sharp” chain. I often touch up my chain a few times a day when cutting big wood.
Spray-on oven cleaner might take that buildup off the bar, but would it be worth it considering how fast you can remove it with just a razor scraper? Never worked with wood like that, so take that thinking for what it's worth! Looks like you managed well, and I like the idea of that a-frame. I'll have to remember that.
I explained why. The tearing bark directs the piece and allows the saw to be extracted before the piece moves off. From a ladder, very awkward to work.
Not readily available at the job site but I imagine boiling water will likely soften it at home. Problem is, it repeatedly gums up every hour or so of use.
@@arboristBlairGlenn I suppose I don’t know the difference . I’ve found WD removes real difficult sap. Sounds like you’ve tried it. I’ll hunt for a live oak and make sure I know the difference in those that I have milled. I’ve been following your for a long time your always inspiring.
Glenn you are a very smart man, thanks for your knowledge you share
There will be critics to these methods but I try to explain our reasons
This is a business where years of experience teaches you mistakes and ways to visualize what will happen. A good understanding of the unique properties of the tree (wood), that you are working with is also important. What wood hinges, what woods break quickly etc. knowing your wood lets you work the wood with an expectation rather than a guess.
EasyOff oven cleaner will clean the bar and chain, but it also strips all the oil from the chain. Spray it on, let it set 10 minutes and wash off with water. Re-oil chain before continuing.
I have done it at home but maybe I need to remember to take a can to the job site with an oil can
Easy off works great, but be careful, that stuff will eat right through your cornea if you get it in your eyes.
That guy on the Porta Wrap was great 👍. Make sure you keep him around. 😜✌️
Yeah but can I afford him?
I'm amazed that you finished this job before winter.
Sarcasm?
@@arboristBlairGlenn -- You had to do so much work -- evaluate the situation, build that A frame, remove the parts of the tree that were resting on or hanging over the house, then remove parts of the trunk that threatened the deck, removing the A frame in order to cut up the remainder of the trunk -- and the wood was like concrete (as oak often is). It was like removing a ship from inside a bottle. What an ordeal. But patience and persistence wins. 👍
The density of that wood was amazing, great work on that HUGE job!
Bet you're glad that job is done! What a beast!
New photo? Wow
Great job blair and jorge 👏 👍 im bet you're sure glad thats a wrap on this 1 😅 thanks for the video 📹 have a pleasant weekend my friend take care...Benny from southern California !
I think this whole series could be a help of a new or young climber.
Fascinating, educational and extremely enjoyable. Thanks again from the UK! 🤗
Glad you enjoyed this
2:05 had me slightly worried that the tear out would snap the rope.
Needed the tear to direct
Live oaks are amazing. I loved having them around when I lived in Texas. That’s a huge pile of BTUs for the homeowner to burn through. If you timed the swings just right, you could have left them with some venison, too.
Got a buddy spitting the mountain of wood for them now
End of a fascinating job. Enjoyed this series!
Thanks for watching them all
Just my opinion, this whole job was beautifully documented
Joe
Thanks. Surprised it didn’t get more views but there you go, the new UA-cam prevails !!
@@arboristBlairGlenn it may take some time people will see that your life as a tree person is amazing and you are very real about your work in arbor culture
Pretty much anything on a bar I deal with is pine related, so no help from me on buildup removal. Other than probably getting a painters razor blade window scraper, that would take it off pretty quick.
Pine, ugh
That oak varnish is water soluble. We used to keep a bucket of water handy and a stiff bristle brush to clean the bar and chain periodically.
Maybe the brush is key
Never heard it called “oak varnish” before. That is a good term for it. Just Live Oaks.
Excellent content as always! I can't believe the new chain got buggered up that much from a few cuts on the live oak, ouch, sorry about the metal. Maybe try a flat razor blade tool for the bar, the one that is used for scraping paint off window edges? That A frame is pretty sweet trick, i love all tour strategies and creative thinking on this job
Thank you
Wax/resin based "gunk" dissolves in polar solvents like ethanol or acetone. Lignin gunk dissolves in 1%-4% Caustic soda in hot water. Please remember gloves and glasses, preferably a face shield & a butchers plastic apron for the caustic, in both cases. And have a plan on how to flush your eyes or skin in a second if you use Caustic.
Not going to do that at the job site but thanks. You have a good understanding of chemistry.
Have you tried anything containing orange oil to clean the bar? It's just a guess, but orange oil seems to be pretty effective for removing different kinds of build-up. As far as mechanical removal, maybe a wire brush on your drill? I don't know if you'd risk damaging the bar or chain that way, though...
Mechanical removal works but I need to find a solvent
@@arboristBlairGlenn I would be inclined to try this one. I use sap zappr, which is available through most arb suppliers. It may be something that you need to leave on it for a minute or so before trying to clean it.
@@matiascamprubi-soms7719 I will try it
Remember your oven cleaner trick? Maybe an abrasive cleaner like Ajax would work. Either way, nicely done!
After the job, that works but during the day? Maybe?
Maybe you could use a thin metal, sharp, 1 inch spackle knife to scrape off the gunked up bar? Spraying it first with some solvent and letting it sit for five minutes before scraping would also help.
Good idea
Bar oil is just canola oil with an additive to make the oil stickier to "keep the chain in the bar" according to manufacturers. I don't like all the gunk it attracts to the bar either. I purchase plain canola oil in bulk from Costco and use it in all my chainsaws. Stihl 462, 201, and 161T. Been doing this for over 5 years and never had a problem and a much cleaner bar and chain.
Really? I might just try that. Better price?
Very intresting!
Glad you enjoyed this
No sorry, i saw another Video.
Best regardes from germany!
My only guess on the saw buildup would be to use the same liquid cleaner that they recommend for cleaning woodworking blades of the sap buildup...problem is that is not as fast acting as the scraping, so you may just want to get a 'junk/beat up' carbide scraper like we use for paint/glue cleanup on woodworking to see if that helps scrape it off the saw faster...obviously as I am sure you know (but others reading may not), don't push hard enough to scrape off the blade paint/metal, but that might work faster to clean up the surface residue than a pocket knife. Were the bees honey bees? or one of the other bee types? Also, I know for woodworking, they make the more expensive carbide tooth bandsaw blades for doing bandsaw cuts (either on the sawmills or home shop), do they make carbide tip chainsaw blades? I am guessing they would, but since those would be much harder to field sharpen...would not be what you want to use normally. Maybe it would be worth keeping one in the truck in case you know you have a tree with metal in, and only use it then. Regardless, this was a fun series to watch. :)
Thanks for commenting Joesph. Honey bees yes. Carbide chains are available but expensive and a bear to sharpen. Most pros don’t use them because a really sharp chain is so much better than just a “pretty sharp” chain. I often touch up my chain a few times a day when cutting big wood.
Spray-on oven cleaner might take that buildup off the bar, but would it be worth it considering how fast you can remove it with just a razor scraper? Never worked with wood like that, so take that thinking for what it's worth! Looks like you managed well, and I like the idea of that a-frame. I'll have to remember that.
It does work but I do that at home. Build up happens too fast at the job site
Maybe waxing the bar with some furniture polish spray would make the gunk easier to remove?
I tried that yesterday! Need to do it right before cutting live oak to see if it helps.
Love live oaks.
A lot of them around here.
Have you ever tried Gumout Carb Cleaner. I use it on my bars to clean sap and other build up on the bar.
I will give it a try. Got some in the shop now.
@@arboristBlairGlenn let me know if it works for you
try using eucalyptus oil as a cleaner it mite brake down the resin
I am not sure what the substance is that only seems to come from Coast Live Oak
(Quercus agrifolia). It gums up the chain too.
Acetone for removing that buildup on the bar?
Maybe. I’m hoping for a comment of someone who has successfully found the right solvent.
Knot that!
The full chisel metal detector 🫤. Weekend chain reconditioning coming.👋
Yup
Carbide scraper
Would that go any faster than a regular scraper?
Adjustment to bar oiler? Needs more oil??
Not about the oil volume. It’s from the live oak
No undercut?
I explained why. The tearing bark directs the piece and allows the saw to be extracted before the piece moves off. From a ladder, very awkward to work.
Hot water by any chance? )
Not readily available at the job site but I imagine boiling water will likely soften it at home. Problem is, it repeatedly gums up every hour or so of use.
Or tagline?
Using the tearing bark to get it going in the right direction. Did not want a tagline
WD40 cleans pretty good
You have tried in on live Oak build up?
@@arboristBlairGlenn I suppose I don’t know the difference . I’ve found WD removes real difficult sap. Sounds like you’ve tried it. I’ll hunt for a live oak and make sure I know the difference in those that I have milled. I’ve been following your for a long time your always inspiring.
@@eldoradowoodcrafthobbies3888 woodworkingbyour business? What do you sell?
Turpentine?
Tried it. Helps but not a solvent for this type of oak gunk. For pine, yes