Hello from Europe. Here it is very hard to find a full strut assembly. Usualy the suspension components are easy to be found individualy. I know from experience that after market coil springs have a very negative impact on ride confort. I will always throw away the new spring and resuse the used OEM. At 8:25 side by side you can see the old spring has more coils and a biger diameter.
Ray, appreciate your focus on right word choice and utilizing words across the vocab spectrum. You’re the mike rowe of the automotive world and don’t go lowest common denominator. Keep it up and don’t let the proverbial “them” allow you to lose your cool. Keep being an example for others purely through your speech and actions without soapboxing and agenda.
There are many "real Americans" who work hard my friend. It's just the media (seemingly regardless which side of the pond it's on) loves to spin things the way they want
Oh man, my daughter's 2010 CR-V needs all of her strut assemblies done. I've been watching videos to see how to do it and now I have a Ray video to watch, too!
@Ryan Bond as a driver of a 5 ton fuel truck back in the early 80s in the Army, you may keep your bearings! ( mechanic pulled the bearing, driver reloaded the grease into the bearings ) all by hand 3 axles with huge hungry bearings about every three months....
@@Jackhole_Cat I don't think Honda's had to much unwisely engineering going on at the time or ever..its the only Honda I've done with 5 and all they make are unibody vehicles. I've never seen hondas with strut towers ripped out. I prefer Toyota or a bit older chevy over a Honda any day though due to electric parts etc and the finicky fluids some use.
@@Jackhole_Cat there's very little on the CR-V that is unwisely engineered...being owner of a model 1, 2 and 3.. these run > 300k no problem. It's one of the better designed jap SUVs.
All kidding aside, it’s pretty difficult to cross thread standard pitch metric fixings. The fine ones can be tricky, still, but it’s an absolute joy to work on post-imperial machinery, with metric fasteners. Old British stuff was horrible, with all the different thread pitches and mixtures of AF, Whitworth, UNC and UNF often being found on the same car. Nowadays, with the exception of hydraulic lines, which still use BSP, sometimes, I just need to know whether it’s regular or fine thread and I can find a nut or bolt to suit. So much easier! And cross threading is almost a thing of the past! Win/win.
It's very seldom nowadays that I even have to get any of my old SAE tools out. Most of them are clean and don't have much wear, while the metric tools are grease stained and have been beaten to death.
I recall working on hydraulics for construction machinery where we had to be sure to match the right kinds of thread. So much so that when we needed a new hose made at our local shop we had to be sure to bring the old one so they could match the fittings. We only encountered two different types of threads but there are six. Six different "standards" and some of them are close enough to each other that you might not know you're using the wrong one until you've boogered the threads.
Yes. 1/4” npt has 27tpi 1/4” nptf has 27tpi and a tapered threaded section. But even worse, there’s a 1/4” x 28tpi thread that’s pretty common and very easy to confuse with npt. Can’t recall whether that’s a bsp thread, or something else, but all three of those are commonly found on oil galleries, even on otherwise100%metric engines. The tapered one can usually be distinguished by eye, once you know to look for it. But the other two can be difficult, even with a pitch gauge, because you don’t normally have much thread to measure. If I can’t spin it all the way in by hand, I try the other one. I have three old oil light switches, in the different threads, so I can check before I buy.
Here’s the thing, Ray. You are so good at your job and make it look so effortless. It is a good thing that people see you struggle a little now and again. It lets us see that each and every job has the potential to have problems. Always enjoy your videos
I agree... and add: I will pay for extra work but only for sincere problems not (-1-) padding the invoice, or (-2-) recovering from costly past mistakes, or (-3-) incompetence. I actually WOULD pay additional for videos of work on my car.
Ray, I knew that first sway bar link came loose way too easy. The second one made up for it, but here in the rust belt they're all fused with rust. A torch if you have one or PB Blaster if you don't. Once you get past the smell, you've got it licked!
A good add-on sale is camber bolts. They will give the alignment tech an adjustment the factory didn't give him. They are easy to install when you are doing struts, in-expensive, have a good markup, and give a benefit to the customer.
It's nice to see a job go well sometimes. Those swaybar links would get the "no mercy reversy" up north to work the rust out. Actually we'd be lighting up the torch.
The factory sway bar links on Hondas are junk. The ball joint in them pops out so easily and you can't grease them. Replace those asap with aftermarket.
I live in Iowa. Almost every time I've replaced a suspension component on my vehicles that connects to a sway bar I just replace the sway bar so I can cut the old ones out.
*Laughs in Rust Belt Rust* I had to cut my links out on my Cobalt back in the day. There was no chance to unbolt it at all since the head itself had nothing left to grab onto. Good thing I had ordered links with my struts.
I know you don't deal with rust mutch down there, but up in the rust belt we've learned once a nut or bolt stop moving, run it back some to clean out the threads then continue to losten.
I love the Milwaukee impacts. They are so powerful and versatile!!! Excellent job, Ray! I believe the big 1\2" Impact shuts off when the power level is turned down. It prevents you from snapping bolts. 😊
I love working on my Honda’s. So easy for the shade tree mechanic to wrench. Living in Ohio, rust condemns the sway bar end links and I just cut them off and replace with new when I do struts.
I hope "wife unit" got some video of "daughter unit" playing with the vacuum. Your shop is really on a fast track, don't cut corners or quality and the customers will be plentiful, Great vids all of you
Those drop links are always a pain, once they’ve been on a while. If the budget won’t stand replacing them, or they’re hard to source, for any reason, it’s really worth cleaning up the threads with a die, before you start. The little torx, or hex, holes are really only strong enough for installing the nyloc nut. If you introduce a load of dirt and rust, the tool usually isn’t going to be able to hold the stud. If you’re lucky, the hole will round off, but sometimes the tool snaps off in it. Then you’re in a world of pain! Easiest, by far, to budget for replacing them every time, then the only surprise will be a good one, when one opens first time.
But, once the initial tightness is undone, all the force you apply to the nut has to be resisted by the poor little hole in the stud. It makes no difference which you turn. The forces applied are the same and the weakest point is usually going to be the Torx or Allen part of the stud. It’s not intended to be used for disassembly of corroded parts. Its only design brief is to be strong enough to counter hold the stud during assembly, so it needs to be good enough to overcome the nyloc washer in the new nut. That’s it! Once that’s done, the sooner it fails the better, as then you’ll buy a new drop link.
One thing i found useful with a rusted fastener that keep resisting is [lube, which you did], but also "walking it" back and forth, unscrewing and screwing. The rusted part of the thread is full of junk, and screwing an unscrewing [easy with an impact electric drill], will clear the threads. [Often anyway, not always].
Over here in Scotland thats what we call an easy drop link, we either need to cut them off or heat them up so much that it ruins the rubber and grease in the balljoint, oh and thats after snapping various allen key bits on it.
Ray Ray anytime you are going to be doing suspension work on a Honda you should always sell the swaybar links. They're cheap and its so much easier when you can just needlenose vise grip the back of the link to keep it from spinning and smoke the nut loose with your impact then trash it and go back with new ones 😊
When I remove struts I undo the top nuts first then the ones on the bottom makes it easier to remove them.When putting the new one in I align the top holes & then put one bolt in the bottom that way only one person is needed to do the job.Also put weight on the strut before tightening all the bolts/nuts.
Notice the huge difference between the factory spring and the aftermarket. That kinda thing really irritates me because most people are gonna buy them expecting a factory ride when in reality the thinner less coiled aftermarket springs ride like trash generally. A good reason to transplant the factory stuff onto some nice high quality shock or new factory shocks.
I agree. Also those quick strut assemblies use very low quality top mounts. A high likelyhood that this customer will be getting strut noise before long in addition to a ride quality that is poorer than original.
Yeah those links should have a place to put a wrench in the back side to keep them from spinning, I notice most after market links do but most OEM do not. Up north here it’s 50/50 if you are getting them off to reuse or just going to cut them off and replace….
I always do maintenance part replacement in sets. If one goes bad than it is likely the others will also eventually fail. Always do all four brake pads rather than the two that need it.
After you disconnect the sway bar link, if you reattach it to the strut assembly and thread the nut on by two turns, it will hold it in place so the strut won't drop after you remove the mounting nuts off the top of the strut.
Another tip to avoid getting an alighment is to paint mark the shoe cam bolt head at 0 and 90 degrees then reference that to the new strut. Has worked for me every time. I mark both as I never seem to remember which one is cammed.
Oh for drop links undoing like that. Front and rear suspension a week ago on an MX5. If the 8 nuts for drop links, 2 came undone. The rest the allen key part just rounded off.
Every day I look forward to watch a RainMan video. Of all my Subscriptions RainMan is watched 1st. Thank you for in-depth auto repair with Awesome humor. Eye commenter. Click torque set
Ya know, if ya take the NUTS off of the top bolts as the FIRST major step, you can just take apart the bottom end normally without worrying about dropping the strut. THEN, if you reverse all of that, the top will be held in place quite handily so putting those NUTS back on won't be so sketchy.
Upon changing out the 1st set of that style of sway bar link ends, I immediately hated them. Why the need to have atleast 3 times the needed thread length totally escapes my thought process. Plus the almost lack of means to hold onto the stud on some styles.
Good day to you, Ray. Now, I could be wrong, but are you not meant to transfer the strutt top mount, dust cover, over from the old to the new. The one that covers the spring bolt where the bright orange sticker was?
Multiple Choice Question: When you can still see and read the stickers and their part numbers on struts that need to be replaced.., it's a good indication that: (a)The vehicle owner is not the kind of person who waits until parts start falling off before authorizing repairs. (b) The vehicle owner believes in regular maintenance. (c) When it comes to vehicles, the owner fully understands what safety, dependability and reliability means.. (d) The vehicle owner is proactive and sees no sense in being overwhelmed with repair costs involving the use of parts cannons OR (e) all of the above
Lol! I wish it was that easy to get those sway bar link nuts off here in the rusty nort der eh... We usually have to grab the stud behind the mounting bracket with a long nose vise grip then heat it up until it's orange to get those nuts to *maybe* come off... Otherwise... We have to upsell to just replace the links when we change the struts and cut them off from the start...
Went to do my swaybar to frame bushings along with sway links in my 2010 mazda 5 yesterday. Had to cut both links off and broke of both backside bushing clamp bolts in the subframe. If only they would stop runing our planet and our cars with all that salt!
Although the thickness of the new front springs appeared to be the same as the OEMs am I the only one to notice that the replacements seem to have 1/2 to 1 fewer coils/wraps in the spring assembly. Different spring rate? Softer or firmer ride?
Find it hard to believe with those miles having them leaking already. If that’s not a one owner car someone changed the 1st number on the odometer for sure.
I miss my 2010 CRV…..mainly bc it wasn’t a new car and I’d go on trails in NH with it. The oil rings were shot, struts were gone, sway bars links needed replacing and the catalytic converter was gone at 125k miles. I got 5k for it as a trade in for a new car I baby 🤣🤣🤣
I own a Ridgid impact, they put that directional switch in the most inconvenient place. I'm always kicking it into neutral or the wrong direction when working in tight spaces. Otherwise a decent tool.
Ok Ray . I learned years ago when it comes to working on cars. Never say its oh ill be done in no time or thats gonna be easy it wont take but 10 minutes. Cause something would always go wrong and i would end up cussing and fyssing for hours or days until the job is done.
bad memory of my altima front end squeek. took struts out 3 times to de squeel it..honda has a tsb on front end squeek.. but not nissan go figure.. it worked silence is golden..
Something I've found by accident on my Rogue... Double tapping the wiper controller in the single wipe mode (mist?) actually parks the wipers in the vertical position. Makes for easy wiper replacement. Double tap again to park into normal position. ;) Complete accident when I did it the first time. Thought I broke something.
Your new 1/2” impact should go back and exchanged with the M18 fuel mid tq or high tq. That brushed non fuel is ok for hairy homeowner. Other than that good video buddy.
Another good job Ray, but I'm not a fan of them Chines Quick Struts KYB is a better bet we had too many comebacks with failers we no longer recommend them to our customers and will no fit them in our shop the spring rates are different and the ride quality is poor
When I was working at a gas station in the 80's with a back room, like with aluminum wheels, struts weren't super common yet. The official "mechanic" took on a strut job and I helped him compress the springs with an underground hydraulic hoist. The spring slipped and shot across the room. It was so fast that we didn't even see it shoot out. I can't imagine if it would've hit one of us. Talk about sketchy shit.
Yeah, I never witnessed one of those, but my friend at the time did. Now that (most) struts come pre-assembled and pre-compressed, mechanics are much safer.
>Close to CROSS-THREAD! Close only counts in horseshoes, hand grenades, landmines and cross threads. All kidding aside, a stellar production, gentlemen!
Known rusty stud/bolt thread the nut will have to pass over: lube, wire brush, brake clean, lube. Get some of that rust off so it doesn't gall the nut to the stud/bolt. (we hope)
Every time i see you working I think you're living in mechanics paradise, there is no way where I live to replace the struts with out replace the sway bar links, in many cases you have to cut them off 😂 ,salty lands
Hello from Europe. Here it is very hard to find a full strut assembly. Usualy the suspension components are easy to be found individualy. I know from experience that after market coil springs have a very negative impact on ride confort. I will always throw away the new spring and resuse the used OEM. At 8:25 side by side you can see the old spring has more coils and a biger diameter.
Well spotted.
Looks to be missing 1 entire wind which is a massive 25% reduction!
to have a Boss like you is always a pleasure to watch, always joking but getting the Job done ,Thumbs up for all of you !! Keep it Up!!😂
Ray, appreciate your focus on right word choice and utilizing words across the vocab spectrum. You’re the mike rowe of the automotive world and don’t go lowest common denominator. Keep it up and don’t let the proverbial “them” allow you to lose your cool. Keep being an example for others purely through your speech and actions without soapboxing and agenda.
Watching from Scotland, lovely to see real Americans at work, not the rubbish we see on the news ❤
There are many "real Americans" who work hard my friend. It's just the media (seemingly regardless which side of the pond it's on) loves to spin things the way they want
Spread the word.
@@Racingnut24 162 million in fact as of Friday's jobs report. A new record with 29 months straight of positive employment growth.
And of course half that work is done by WIFE UNIT!
There are plenty of hard working people in America, it's the loud ones that don't have anything productive to do.
Oh man, my daughter's 2010 CR-V needs all of her strut assemblies done. I've been watching videos to see how to do it and now I have a Ray video to watch, too!
I’ll trade you the struts for my wheel bearing 😅
@@EmbraceTheSuck as a bearing aficionado, I do love me some bearings.
@@EmbraceTheSuck out of curiosity, what brand of bearings did you buy?
@Ryan Bond as a driver of a 5 ton fuel truck back in the early 80s in the Army, you may keep your bearings! ( mechanic pulled the bearing, driver reloaded the grease into the bearings ) all by hand 3 axles with huge hungry bearings about every three months....
@@bearing_aficionado have not bought any yet. Will most likely buy OEM
5 STUDS! FOR THAT HIGH PERFORMANCE CORNERING!
Yeah I've done 1 set of struts on a crv and still can't imagine why it needs that many.
@@Boga217 Thin, cheap, unwisely engineered metal needs more area of support...
@@Jackhole_Cat I don't think Honda's had to much unwisely engineering going on at the time or ever..its the only Honda I've done with 5 and all they make are unibody vehicles. I've never seen hondas with strut towers ripped out. I prefer Toyota or a bit older chevy over a Honda any day though due to electric parts etc and the finicky fluids some use.
And only 2 studs on the rears.
@@Jackhole_Cat there's very little on the CR-V that is unwisely engineered...being owner of a model 1, 2 and 3.. these run > 300k no problem. It's one of the better designed jap SUVs.
You always do a great job at explaining the procedure of R & R different parts on the vehicle. You are a great commentator.
All kidding aside, it’s pretty difficult to cross thread standard pitch metric fixings. The fine ones can be tricky, still, but it’s an absolute joy to work on post-imperial machinery, with metric fasteners.
Old British stuff was horrible, with all the different thread pitches and mixtures of AF, Whitworth, UNC and UNF often being found on the same car. Nowadays, with the exception of hydraulic lines, which still use BSP, sometimes, I just need to know whether it’s regular or fine thread and I can find a nut or bolt to suit. So much easier! And cross threading is almost a thing of the past! Win/win.
It's very seldom nowadays that I even have to get any of my old SAE tools out. Most of them are clean and don't have much wear, while the metric tools are grease stained and have been beaten to death.
I recall working on hydraulics for construction machinery where we had to be sure to match the right kinds of thread. So much so that when we needed a new hose made at our local shop we had to be sure to bring the old one so they could match the fittings.
We only encountered two different types of threads but there are six. Six different "standards" and some of them are close enough to each other that you might not know you're using the wrong one until you've boogered the threads.
Yes. 1/4” npt has 27tpi
1/4” nptf has 27tpi and a tapered threaded section.
But even worse, there’s a 1/4” x 28tpi thread that’s pretty common and very easy to confuse with npt. Can’t recall whether that’s a bsp thread, or something else, but all three of those are commonly found on oil galleries, even on otherwise100%metric engines. The tapered one can usually be distinguished by eye, once you know to look for it. But the other two can be difficult, even with a pitch gauge, because you don’t normally have much thread to measure. If I can’t spin it all the way in by hand, I try the other one.
I have three old oil light switches, in the different threads, so I can check before I buy.
Here’s the thing, Ray. You are so good at your job and make it look so effortless. It is a good thing that people see you struggle a little now and again. It lets us see that each and every job has the potential to have problems. Always enjoy your videos
I agree... and add: I will pay for extra work but only for sincere problems not (-1-) padding the invoice, or (-2-) recovering from costly past mistakes, or (-3-) incompetence.
I actually WOULD pay additional for videos of work on my car.
Why did you not swap over the dust/water caps from the top of the old front struts to the new ones?
That's the premium package
Sway bar end links with torn boots. Cheap to replace while you’re there and half removed.
Ray, I knew that first sway bar link came loose way too easy. The second one made up for it, but here in the rust belt they're all fused with rust. A torch if you have one or PB Blaster if you don't. Once you get past the smell, you've got it licked!
Good to see you and Troy work together so well.
Was just about to comment on that myself! Great to see/hear a workplace as constructive and happy as this... fantastic culture being created. Love it.
What's a Troy?
Please put a warning in the title.
Cross threading is very disturbing for the faint of heart. Also unsuitable for younger audiences.
I'm so jealous he didn't have to cut that sway bar link off with the torch.
@@loacyric a torch fits where even the smallest grinder does not, it's the bottom of the link that's usually hard to get at.
A good add-on sale is camber bolts. They will give the alignment tech an adjustment the factory didn't give him. They are easy to install when you are doing struts, in-expensive, have a good markup, and give a benefit to the customer.
It's nice to see a job go well sometimes. Those swaybar links would get the "no mercy reversy" up north to work the rust out. Actually we'd be lighting up the torch.
Ah yes, the BlueTip line of wrenches.
The factory sway bar links on Hondas are junk. The ball joint in them pops out so easily and you can't grease them. Replace those asap with aftermarket.
I live in Iowa. Almost every time I've replaced a suspension component on my vehicles that connects to a sway bar I just replace the sway bar so I can cut the old ones out.
*Laughs in Rust Belt Rust* I had to cut my links out on my Cobalt back in the day. There was no chance to unbolt it at all since the head itself had nothing left to grab onto. Good thing I had ordered links with my struts.
I know you don't deal with rust mutch down there, but up in the rust belt we've learned once a nut or bolt stop moving, run it back some to clean out the threads then continue to losten.
I love the Milwaukee impacts. They are so powerful and versatile!!! Excellent job, Ray! I believe the big 1\2" Impact shuts off when the power level is turned down. It prevents you from snapping bolts. 😊
I'm impressed that the zip tie was replaced. Can't imagine any one else would even have that special tie.
Wow, the Honda CR-V 2.4 FWD looks absolutely amazing in this video!
I love working on my Honda’s. So easy for the shade tree mechanic to wrench. Living in Ohio, rust condemns the sway bar end links and I just cut them off and replace with new when I do struts.
I hope "wife unit" got some video of "daughter unit" playing with the vacuum. Your shop is really on a fast track, don't cut corners or quality and the customers will be plentiful, Great vids all of you
It is really handy having troy around
You forgot the rubber or plastic dust cover on the top of the strut !
I came looking for this, I was going to say the same thing.
Good video as always @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Those drop links are always a pain, once they’ve been on a while. If the budget won’t stand replacing them, or they’re hard to source, for any reason, it’s really worth cleaning up the threads with a die, before you start. The little torx, or hex, holes are really only strong enough for installing the nyloc nut. If you introduce a load of dirt and rust, the tool usually isn’t going to be able to hold the stud. If you’re lucky, the hole will round off, but sometimes the tool snaps off in it.
Then you’re in a world of pain!
Easiest, by far, to budget for replacing them every time, then the only surprise will be a good one, when one opens first time.
....and it makes little sense to hold the nut, and turn the stud...it wasn't designed for that, the nut was made to turn, not the stud....
But, once the initial tightness is undone, all the force you apply to the nut has to be resisted by the poor little hole in the stud. It makes no difference which you turn. The forces applied are the same and the weakest point is usually going to be the Torx or Allen part of the stud. It’s not intended to be used for disassembly of corroded parts. Its only design brief is to be strong enough to counter hold the stud during assembly, so it needs to be good enough to overcome the nyloc washer in the new nut. That’s it! Once that’s done, the sooner it fails the better, as then you’ll buy a new drop link.
Rainman Ray's Repairs... As soon as you said it I was like "oh no, you just jinxed yourself". Awesome video!!
One thing i found useful with a rusted fastener that keep resisting is [lube, which you did], but also "walking it" back and forth, unscrewing and screwing. The rusted part of the thread is full of junk, and screwing an unscrewing [easy with an impact electric drill], will clear the threads. [Often anyway, not always].
Over here in Scotland thats what we call an easy drop link, we either need to cut them off or heat them up so much that it ruins the rubber and grease in the balljoint, oh and thats after snapping various allen key bits on it.
strut bearing dust covers? on old units,,,,,,
Ray Ray anytime you are going to be doing suspension work on a Honda you should always sell the swaybar links. They're cheap and its so much easier when you can just needlenose vise grip the back of the link to keep it from spinning and smoke the nut loose with your impact then trash it and go back with new ones 😊
When I remove struts I undo the top nuts first then the ones on the bottom makes it easier to remove them.When putting the new one in I align the top holes & then put one bolt in the bottom that way only one person is needed to do the job.Also put weight on the strut before tightening all the bolts/nuts.
Why didn’t you transfer the rubber top from the old struts to the new ones?
Should Always use New to avoid dreaded ComeBack
he reduced weight to give better mileage. Bonus to good paying customer.
@@forgetfulme1719 If you do that you must leave both off or there will be an imbalance in the weight bias.
@@kenore4003 with those cheap struts bouncing up and down, u will not notice.
@@forgetfulme1719 That wasn’t nice. I asked a serious question, why did have to use my question to be rude? Post your own rude comment next time.
I leanrn a lot about cars watching you Ray, thanks a bunch I mechanic should have been my calling as a young lad now not so young anymore at 58
Notice the huge difference between the factory spring and the aftermarket.
That kinda thing really irritates me because most people are gonna buy them expecting a factory ride when in reality the thinner less coiled aftermarket springs ride like trash generally.
A good reason to transplant the factory stuff onto some nice high quality shock or new factory shocks.
I agree. Also those quick strut assemblies use very low quality top mounts. A high likelyhood that this customer will be getting strut noise before long in addition to a ride quality that is poorer than original.
Couldn't agree more. Springs are totally different. Bought a Branick compressor for my garage on the internets
Most struts are 2 bolts or 4 bolts Crv Are so special with there 5 nuts like it's a Race car😂😂 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Troy laughing at " 12:04 Nuts are gone". It happens to everyone with age Troy, enjoy while you can young man!
Yeah those links should have a place to put a wrench in the back side to keep them from spinning, I notice most after market links do but most OEM do not. Up north here it’s 50/50 if you are getting them off to reuse or just going to cut them off and replace….
I always do maintenance part replacement in sets. If one goes bad than it is likely the others will also eventually fail. Always do all four brake pads rather than the two that need it.
I hope one day to see Ray get his own alignment rack, but it is always a pleasure to watch the master at work.
Mucho dinero $
It will probably never be cost effective for him to get an alignment rack.
For the sway bar hold the middle and turn the bolt instead
After you disconnect the sway bar link, if you reattach it to the strut assembly and thread the nut on by two turns, it will hold it in place so the strut won't drop after you remove the mounting nuts off the top of the strut.
Great suggestion
Another tip to avoid getting an alighment is to paint mark the shoe cam bolt head at 0 and 90 degrees then reference that to the new strut. Has worked for me every time. I mark both as I never seem to remember which one is cammed.
Oh for drop links undoing like that. Front and rear suspension a week ago on an MX5. If the 8 nuts for drop links, 2 came undone. The rest the allen key part just rounded off.
Every day I look forward to watch a RainMan video. Of all my Subscriptions RainMan is watched 1st. Thank you for in-depth auto repair with Awesome humor. Eye commenter. Click torque set
thankyou Ray,nice to see a well maintained vehicle as this one,they usually seem easier to work on IMO,,,have a smashing weekend,,👍👌
Good video Ray. Bit of banter makes the job go better!!
Good to see you and Caster Troy back at work.
you did not transfer the nut protection rubber cover from the old left strut to the new left strut.
Shut up, you MUG!
Ya know, if ya take the NUTS off of the top bolts as the FIRST major step, you can just take apart the bottom end normally without worrying about dropping the strut. THEN, if you reverse all of that, the top will be held in place quite handily so putting those NUTS back on won't be so sketchy.
double teaming the struts like a Boss Team 🥰🥰😋💕
Upon changing out the 1st set of that style of sway bar link ends, I immediately hated them. Why the need to have atleast 3 times the needed thread length totally escapes my thought process. Plus the almost lack of means to hold onto the stud on some styles.
Good day to you, Ray.
Now, I could be wrong, but are you not meant to transfer the strutt top mount, dust cover, over from the old to the new. The one that covers the spring bolt where the bright orange sticker was?
Sway bar links..the flame wrench every time.
Multiple Choice Question:
When you can still see and read the stickers and their part numbers on struts that need to be replaced..,
it's a good indication that:
(a)The vehicle owner is not the kind of person who waits until parts start falling off before authorizing repairs.
(b) The vehicle owner believes in regular maintenance.
(c) When it comes to vehicles, the owner fully understands what safety, dependability and reliability means..
(d) The vehicle owner is proactive and sees no sense in being overwhelmed with repair costs involving the use of parts cannons
OR
(e) all of the above
these ebay special will has 6 months guarantee..
It must be nice not having to cope with rusty fasteners 👍 I’ve never come across struts coming complete with springs 🤔
Good morning Mr Ray hope y'all have a wonderful day
Did you get that broken bolt out of the Subaru engine yet? I have faith in thee Bro!
That ez-out breaking off in there didn't help.I personally use other methods.Have a great t
I'm going to be disappointed if he replaces the engine instead of extracting the broken bolt.
Lol! I wish it was that easy to get those sway bar link nuts off here in the rusty nort der eh... We usually have to grab the stud behind the mounting bracket with a long nose vise grip then heat it up until it's orange to get those nuts to *maybe* come off... Otherwise... We have to upsell to just replace the links when we change the struts and cut them off from the start...
Went to do my swaybar to frame bushings along with sway links in my 2010 mazda 5 yesterday.
Had to cut both links off and broke of both backside bushing clamp bolts in the subframe.
If only they would stop runing our planet and our cars with all that salt!
Although the thickness of the new front springs appeared to be the same as the OEMs am I the only one to notice that the replacements seem to have 1/2 to 1 fewer coils/wraps in the spring assembly. Different spring rate? Softer or firmer ride?
28:42 Very good sir! 👌 To be good so as not to be bad. 🤭 It's good to be good... Good always wins.
Find it hard to believe with those miles having them leaking already. If that’s not a one owner car someone changed the 1st number on the odometer for sure.
Love that "Gravity!"
So glad I felt a disturbance and turned my headphones down...lol
Background conversation. “She likes to vacuum her hair”😂😂😂
Ray every single link i pull is just like that one lol. Grab it with vice grips from behind lol.
I miss my 2010 CRV…..mainly bc it wasn’t a new car and I’d go on trails in NH with it. The oil rings were shot, struts were gone, sway bars links needed replacing and the catalytic converter was gone at 125k miles. I got 5k for it as a trade in for a new car I baby 🤣🤣🤣
I own a Ridgid impact, they put that directional switch in the most inconvenient place. I'm always kicking it into neutral or the wrong direction when working in tight spaces.
Otherwise a decent tool.
Ok Ray . I learned years ago when it comes to working on cars. Never say its oh ill be done in no time or thats gonna be easy it wont take but 10 minutes. Cause something would always go wrong and i would end up cussing and fyssing for hours or days until the job is done.
bad memory of my altima front end squeek. took struts out 3 times to de squeel it..honda has a tsb on front end squeek.. but not nissan go figure.. it worked silence is golden..
We're the rubber top bits transferred, although I believe their job it to hold moisture to facilitate corrosion.
Something I've found by accident on my Rogue... Double tapping the wiper controller in the single wipe mode (mist?) actually parks the wipers in the vertical position. Makes for easy wiper replacement. Double tap again to park into normal position. ;) Complete accident when I did it the first time. Thought I broke something.
VW has "service position"...but if you don't read the manual with the car, one would never know
Your new 1/2” impact should go back and exchanged with the M18 fuel mid tq or high tq. That brushed non fuel is ok for hairy homeowner. Other than that good video buddy.
Nothing like a good 'ol Shop-Vac Shower !
Ray you need some koken nut grips then no pliers or magnet stick needed
Another good job Ray, but I'm not a fan of them Chines Quick Struts KYB is a better bet we had too many comebacks with failers we no longer recommend them to our customers and will no fit them in our shop the spring rates are different and the ride quality is poor
another great vid ray and troy looking for the prop that was removed to another place were it was lost !
I dont think ive ever said it Ray but i love your intro song/graphic design 😂 "eh gravity"
When I was working at a gas station in the 80's with a back room, like with aluminum wheels, struts weren't super common yet. The official "mechanic" took on a strut job and I helped him compress the springs with an underground hydraulic hoist. The spring slipped and shot across the room. It was so fast that we didn't even see it shoot out. I can't imagine if it would've hit one of us. Talk about sketchy shit.
Yeah, I never witnessed one of those, but my friend at the time did.
Now that (most) struts come pre-assembled and pre-compressed, mechanics are much safer.
@@MonkeyJedi99 Yeah. It didn't come as a kit. The just replaced the strut with the original spring.
Good morning Ray
>Close to CROSS-THREAD!
Close only counts in horseshoes, hand grenades, landmines and cross threads. All kidding aside, a stellar production, gentlemen!
the variation I remember was horseshoes, hand grenades, and nukes...
Dolt Ray, You forgot to exchange the top rubber bung for the spring nut dust cap, It happens
Looks like you have a shiny new Milwaukee Impact, makes sense to standardize batteries.
The struggle is real and the cut off wheels are usually not far away. :)
Like it when it reaches ROFL
Ray almost a waste of new struts if you want my opinion, good for another 100k!
That was like NASCAR speed on strut replacement. Wow!
I mentioned in another of your videos. Nylock nuts suck for the next guy on exterior applications 😮 Now your the next guy 😊
In the rust belt we just cut off those sway bar links and install new ones.
Oh yeah? In the rusty rust belt we just cut off the swaybars
Did the rubber cover on top of the old strut need to be removed and replaced on the new strut? If so I didn't see it happen.
also saw that, dust cap was not installed on the new strut
Known rusty stud/bolt thread the nut will have to pass over:
lube, wire brush, brake clean, lube.
Get some of that rust off so it doesn't gall the nut to the stud/bolt. (we hope)
I know where the hood prop rod is... It's wherever you last had it. Glad to be of service.
hmmm didn't see the rubber covers go back on top of struts (8:33)
Dosent look like this crv has the cam bolts for the strut @Rainman Ray's Repairs
The dust boot was clearly ripped open on the left sway bar link.
needs to be replaced, $20 ebay or $100 dealer.
Nothing holds better then a crossthread😂
I'm no fan of Honda, but I must give them Kudo's for providing easy access to the upper strut mounts.
Is this for real? Under 80000 miles that is a possible warranty claim, the struts are supposed to last longer than that.
Keep up the good work Ray.💪
Every time i see you working I think you're living in mechanics paradise, there is no way where I live to replace the struts with out replace the sway bar links, in many cases you have to cut them off 😂 ,salty lands