@@emmavik-fredriksson640 Maybe add blocks under the lid at each edge to prevent the lid sliding free of the magnets, but the idea of using strong rare earth magnets is a genius one.
You could use larger hinges that pivot further back- that way when you open the lid the pivot point will be further back and shouldn't hit the top of the legs
Just watched this as I was shopping for hinges for a piano bench I've been building out of solid maple so that I can play duets with my daughter. Needless to say, it's a labor of love, and seeing the problem with the hinges on your bench saved mine. Thank you!
Could maybe pop some trim on the underside of the lid so it fits snug. Like a jewelry box. But not essential if you don't need the storage. So.....sod it and put your feet up!
I can’t offer any advice because I’m a complete beginner but I just wanted to Thank You for your videos. Through you very generously sharing your knowledge, tips and advice, I’ve found my confidence to use power tools and get creative. I’ve fallen in love with woodworking and your videos have helped heal my depression and anxiety. Thank You so much. You’re bloody amazing! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
So much better than it ending up in tip mate and matches really well with your chair and decor. How about removing the hinges and placing a wooden rim around the inside of lid so that it's a push fit, like the little trinket boxes 🤔 hopefully you get what I'm trying to explain 😏 cheers Karl
Had the exact same idea. No hinges, and lid stays safely in its place :) Probably a 3 minute job for you and a couple of the pieces from the scrape draw well utilised :)
My first thought was adding some small battens to the underside of the lid, so it locates securely and lifts off. Or how about some parliament hinges? Something like 76597 from toolstation
The Dylan seal of approval. With the corners on the upholstery: I usually make a cut in the fabric in line with the corner, which allows more room to manoeuvre, pull the fabric over to one side, staple, then start on the other side of the corner, pulling the fabric over for folding into a pleat. I end up cutting a rectangle of fabric away so it doesn’t bunch up in the corner and finish with the pleat. Wish I’d never started this explanation, as it’s so hard to explain! Think John Orchard’s trim suggestion is a good one for the lid. Cheers
Sweet Dylan 💕 I would have put an inner frame of wood, you know like some boxes are made. The frame make the lid stay put but it will be easy to pull off when needed. I hope you get what I'm trying to explain, English is my second language 😛
I would personally make a small frame on the underside of the lid so it would be a tight fit lid. All my timber gets delivered on monday for my workshop and I just received my epdm roof so I cant wait to start building it 😁😁
Very nice job on that stool. What a great find! I'd agree with others who have said to make the lid into a fitted box lid type thing and skip the hinges entirely. And very nice shot of Mr. Dylan lounging on his yellow stool against that gorgeous green wall.
A 10 minute lesson from Jay Blades on upholstery corners and you could transform both pieces. And you can’t beat a Parker Knoll wood frame chair - always buy them when you see them. Good work as always
I love this video! I like how you find things and help them have a new purpose, rather than just buying a cheap product that isn't well made. Really enjoy all your videos =)
Nice result 👍🏻 well done. When I cant get hinges to play for lids and stuff I’ve used rare earth magnets to have a lift on lift off lid. it works quite neatly.
A set of cleats around the inside of the lid for a tight fit might do it. If you wanted to keep to hinges they are available with various geometries to throw the door / lid away from the closure surface - like your kitchen cupboards. Try a search on offset hinges. And thanks for your content, always valuable. And well done for supporting Leo's one handed challenge. Respect!
My Parker Knoll Armchair restoration video: ua-cam.com/video/uC7PlS2DHSU/v-deo.html My Card Scraper Sharpening video: ua-cam.com/video/h-KYqsAPMqk/v-deo.html MY TOOLS: For links to the tools I use, plus some of my favourite consumables, finishes and more see links below. As an Amazon Associate I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases: UK affiliate store: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/ragnbonebrown US affiliate store: www.amazon.com/shop/ragnbonebrown HELP SUPPORT THE CHANNEL: Support with Patreon: www.patreon.com/ragnbonebrown Support with PayPal paypal.me/ragnbonebrown SHOP: Etsy: www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KeithBrownMaker teespring.com/stores/rag-n-bone-brown-merch LINKS: Website: www.ragnbonebrown.com Facebook: facebook.com/ragnbonebrown Instagram: @ragnbonebrown Twitter: twitter.com/ragnbonebrown Email: ragnbonebrown@gmail.com Second UA-cam Channel (non woodwork videos): ua-cam.com/users/keefykeef
....thank you for brightening my day with another great refinishing project! Such fun watching you work and your explanation about what you're doing and why...
When pulling upholstery into a cushion, you are doing it right to start in the center, but if you keep turning it and adding staples one or two to a side, instead of stapling across a whole side at one. So center on on four sides, then one to left and right, rotate to next side and do one to left and right, and keep going until you just have the four corners to do. That will really help pull the fabric more evenly, wear more evenly, and look better.
Excellent save, you could make a thin walled box that attaches to the underside of the lid that fits snuggly into the bottom which hold the top in place, then you could even lift it off and use it on your lap as a lap pad or desk of sorts? Maybe....just a thought.
Lose the lid , put a draw in from the side where the hinges were , use the piece of wood your remove for the draw front , I think for you it's a quick and easy alteration, hope you like the idea , great vid
Nice little makeover project. Thanks for sharing. The heating tip for stubborn nails is perfect. Never seen/heard that before. Maybe it helps when you round over the bottom side of the lid on the back to prevent it from rubbing the upper part of the apron of the stool.
I vote for rosewood and the create a snug inner rim jewelry box idea (that several of your readers suggested. It should be easy to repair the former hinge cut-outs with dutchmen repairs.
I love recycling of this stool. One thing you can do is maybe turn that into a secret drawer? The space is empty anyway, and I think if you just made a small drawer and used a rail as the face then it would work out pretty well. Maybe even add like a fun secret way to open it like with a magnet or a push-release.
The "big secret" is you use wider hinges that cover the full span of the overhang so that the pin lines up with the edge of the top. That way when you raise it, it stays clear of the apron and the top of the legs.
Looking good, a dowel in each corner, and an oversized hole in the lid to make for easy alignment,don't tell the Mrs you don't this then you can have a hidi hole 👍👍
Another great restoration (I said on the chair video that I didn't much like the colour but I admit it's now growing on me now ;) ) Regarding the lid, I think I've seen these stools like this with a metal retaining device that just doesn't let them open all the way up, maybe because they were made only to keep small amounts of piano music inside. I think it was a kind of elongated metal loop that had a pin in the loop fixing it with a recess allowing it to fold into the rail when it closed and that came out when the lid opened, but only so far. I saw what I thought would have been part of this kind of mechanism on one of the sides, although I didn't see the recess on the matching side. I hope I've explained it well enough and please forgive me if I've got it wrong, as the stools I'm thinking of were in my primary school, many years ago.
Couple of comments that one or two may have mentioned already. To overcome lid opening a small concave cut out where the lid fouls the leg is the best option to overcome the problem. True it would only open 90 degrees, but that is better than 0 degrees. Maybe it would have been easier to remove varnish etc before re-assembly thus avoiding the problem up against leg shoulder. I agree with a previous comment that it is Afrormosia (currently Cities listed ) so forget about trying to get any unless you can find some second hand. Good video and just shows what can be done with minimum outlay. Stay safe
If you get your hands on some free drawer slides you can actually use a couple of those and slide the lid horizontally. That is of course if they have no play in them so they do not make rattling noises when in use. Different type of hinge - one with an angle that lifts the lid up and then backwards. Magnets + guide blocks to keep the lid in place. Some sort of swivel mount (center or corner) to slide the lid sideways. I have no idea what it's called in English, but we call it a "kulesneppert" in Norwegian - a pair of those should work very nicely; probably one of the best solutions to the "problem". Locks quite good, takes care of sideways movement (mounted at a 90 degree angle), quite sturdy and not too hard to fit.
Love the renovation, no-one likes brown wood these days & so much gets scrapped or burned. Even worse chalk painted! A bit of chamfer relief at the top of the legs & underside of the seat might do the trick, but the seat wasn't designed to rotate more than 90°, so a small chain or restraint to stop it might do the trick. (The brass loop bracket on the frame is a give away) The screw holes might need drilling out and a dowel insert as the threads are likely stripped. I noticed a mix of slot & pozi screw heads, someone fixed it before!
Nice restoration job. I would like to keep the lid removable; someone will find the perfect items to store inside... just tack little strips to form a lip inside to register the lid against the aprons. Making the inner lid into a wooden tray when turned upside down is also very popular nowadays.
My suggestion for the hinges: Take an angle grinder and shorten the hinges. Than put them in the corner on the legs. So the pivot point in further back. No need for ordering parts.
I'd say just heavily chamfer the top side of the legs. No need to plane off the entire sides. I've seen it quite a few times for these kinds of constructions.
Another really nice restoration Keith - god knows why people think its a good idea to pin mortise and tenon joints - the amount of pieces I've broken trying to get them out! For the hinge, the first thing I thought of was to screw a couple of strips of timber to the top that fit inside the bottom opening. This would allow you to easily take it on and off, without any movement (hope that makes sense!)
To use the hinges just put a piece of 1/4" thick by 1" or 3/8's high trim against the rail, all the way around. You already cut the legs so you are not hurting anything by adding a trim. Attach your hinges and a small swing latch on the front to tie the sides together.
Nice job Keith! You might consider putting a slight bevel on the top of the back legs to give you clearance or notch out the frame of the top where the legs interfere.
you might want to use some rare earth magnets to hold the top in place. Then with a few of alignment pins (nail with head cut off and rounded) would also act as a mechanical support for lateral movement when you put feet on top, push stool from side to stop the lid /top from slipping.
You could use a surface mount lift off (overlay style) cabinet hinge sometimes called a chest hinge or a pivot hinge either exposed or internal all of these just move the pivot point as part of the design geometry so the top has enough lift during operation to clear.
If you simply attached blocks to the underside of the lid to sit snugly inside the apron and eliminate the hinges, then the lid can be fully lifted off and replaced and you have that small added but if storage but keep the original look.
Try some inset hinges like used in kitchen cupboards maybe? Or instead of hinges. Add a lip to the underneath of the top so that it turns into a removable lid if that makes sense?
One idea would be to mount blocks on the underside of the top that match the internals corners of the bottom, that way you would use it a loose top which would be secured in place by the blocks?
Take the hinges out, fill the housings and use magnets instead so it just lifts off. Maybe a small batten on the underside of the lid to locate it and stop it sliding off when you put your feet up
Put some hinges that have the leafs a bit deeper, from the barrel pivot point to the outside edge, so the pivot is more outside of the edge of the legs
The wood is mahogany. To get around the hinge problem raise the hinges higher by placing a strip of wood under the hinges and putting a couple of clear rubber bumper pads/ feet/stops on the front the same thickness as the wood you use at the back. This way it clears the stool. I think the stool legs cracked because the top was overextended you need stronger hinges. 🙂
re: the lid. You can create a skirt that runs around the parameter on the top and then just slot it into the bottom. You don't have to do the whole inside lip with the square parts of the legs jutting upwards into the cavity, you could just do the long flat sides and make it a bit tight so that it doesn't want to pull out easily.
Hi Keith,another piece of unwanted junk saved and given a new lease of life,it was a good vidio wich I enjoyed,with regards to the problem of the hinged lid there is a simple solution,all you need to do is chisel away the material on the lid which comes into contact with the legs,it only amounts to the depth of how much the leg protrudes from the apron,problem solved,all done it would not be noticed,take care and stay healthy .
What about a couple of dowels glued in the base and corresponding holes in the lid? Not a hinge but would prevent the top sliding about and still keep the storage.
I have funny feeling at some point the rubber pads on top of the legs were lost and the previous owner rebated the hinges so top would would sit flat! you might need to adjust screw holes on the lid if you go with my rubber pad recommendation
looks like iroko to me. Hard as nails, partly due to the tendency to draw sand up from the roots. Used to be known as poor mans teak but not as durable or pretty. Parliament style hinges would fix the hinge issue - they are deeper so the pivot point is further away and lifts the lid/door clear of the frame. Usually used for doors with deep recesses or where you want 180 degree opening. Failing that a little chamfer on the top of the legs but that would be noticeable. Thanks for posting.
Stick the off cuts from each leg to each corner of the lid in such a way to hold it in place when fitted - similar to the other suggestions of using battens, hope this makes sense to everyone 😁
Another Great project and video Keith. Out of interest why didn’t you remove the finish while you had everything disassembled? I always find it such a pain removing finish from those difficult corners and would think it’s far easier when apart if you are taking that step.
Maybe a frame that is attached to the underside of the lid and fits into the base would work? Even adding 4 narrow strips that are not joined at the corners would keep the lid secure.
How about those friction lid supports you see in toy chests that prevent the lid from slamming. You can adjust them so they hold the lid at an angle where it’s not opening all the way back. OR remove the hinges and make the top removable like you see with storage cubes.
Hi Keith, when getting glue into thin cracks, I've found a thin artists pallet knife to be indispensable. You might have found the finishing easier if you'd done it before the glue up. Especially, the apron rails. Also, the timber looks like it might be Sapele ( a type of mahogany). You said you thought it might be Rosewood, if so, be especially careful with the dust ( a bit late now I know).
I like the idea of adding wood to make a push on lid... but if it doesn't need be so air tight you could use a piece of wood on the top of each hinge that raises the lid and do the same on the front... or add a full lip all the way around either way, lifting the lid to clear the hinges
What about using some good sized dowels that are glued into the top of the legs which then fit into a hole in the top so the top can be taken on and off but still solid enough to be used as a foot stool 😊
Nice looking job. Only comments would be: 1. Why not scrape the legs and apron whilst they were apart before regluing ads you would get a cleaner removal? 2. Rather than hinge the lid, fix thing batten all around (except at the legs) the lid to hold the lid in place from side to side movement in much the same way as you would if you were making a box with a completely removable lid. Either that, (my preference) or use kitchen cabinet hinges.
Perhaps you could pop a strip of similar wood 2-3mm thick , on top of the existing frame (or on the underside of the lid). This should give enough clearance for the lid to open without looking too much different to the original?
Route a slot on the underside of the lid where it comes into contact with the legs when opening the lid. This gives the leg corner a place to go rather than pushing back against the lid.
Could you not have cut an angle (a big chamfer) on those back legs?
Use magnets in the top of the legs to make the life removable
J_B_Woodwork i was just about yo make the same comment 😊
That's so easy and brilliant!
@@emmavik-fredriksson640 Maybe add blocks under the lid at each edge to prevent the lid sliding free of the magnets, but the idea of using strong rare earth magnets is a genius one.
Rubber pads is all you need on top of all 4 legs
You could use larger hinges that pivot further back- that way when you open the lid the pivot point will be further back and shouldn't hit the top of the legs
Just watched this as I was shopping for hinges for a piano bench I've been building out of solid maple so that I can play duets with my daughter. Needless to say, it's a labor of love, and seeing the problem with the hinges on your bench saved mine. Thank you!
Playing duets with your daughter! That’s one of the sweetest things I’ve ever heard. Man I hope it turned out well!
Could maybe pop some trim on the underside of the lid so it fits snug. Like a jewelry box. But not essential if you don't need the storage. So.....sod it and put your feet up!
👍 cheers, I will 😀
Yes. Perfect solution. And although you don't need the storage, you still have access
I was hoping someone else had the same idea of skipping the hinge and just making it open by being lifted off.
@@RagnBoneBrown Yes exactly. but maybe also mortise in some strong rare-earth magnets also to help hold it in place? Hmm....
I should have read this comment this is what I was trying to say...
I can’t offer any advice because I’m a complete beginner but I just wanted to Thank You for your videos. Through you very generously sharing your knowledge, tips and advice, I’ve found my confidence to use power tools and get creative. I’ve fallen in love with woodworking and your videos have helped heal my depression and anxiety. Thank You so much. You’re bloody amazing! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you!
So much better than it ending up in tip mate and matches really well with your chair and decor. How about removing the hinges and placing a wooden rim around the inside of lid so that it's a push fit, like the little trinket boxes 🤔 hopefully you get what I'm trying to explain 😏 cheers Karl
That's a good idea!! Cheers Karl, I hadn't thought of that 👍
Had the exact same idea. No hinges, and lid stays safely in its place :) Probably a 3 minute job for you and a couple of the pieces from the scrape draw well utilised :)
Oops, didn’t see this comment, but essentially this is what I also tried to suggest
My first thought was adding some small battens to the underside of the lid, so it locates securely and lifts off.
Or how about some parliament hinges? Something like 76597 from toolstation
Wow! I am impressed with how quickly I got that like button. It was like as soon as I saw the kitty, it was knee-jerk. He just looked so fluffy.😍
'Now I can get those loose legs apart' 😂😂. Excellent.
Cranked hinges may give you the extra clearance you need. Nice project, it's good to see old furniture re used or re purposed.
Yeah magnets !!!! Nice work on restoring the bench/stool and matching it to the chair !!!
Nice work; it's always good to see what would have been firewood rescued and restored back to a nice looking and useable piece of furniture
Great to see the stool get a new lease of life 👍
What a beautiful footstool or, perhaps, cat throne. Nicely done!
The Dylan seal of approval. With the corners on the upholstery: I usually make a cut in the fabric in line with the corner, which allows more room to manoeuvre, pull the fabric over to one side, staple, then start on the other side of the corner, pulling the fabric over for folding into a pleat. I end up cutting a rectangle of fabric away so it doesn’t bunch up in the corner and finish with the pleat. Wish I’d never started this explanation, as it’s so hard to explain! Think John Orchard’s trim suggestion is a good one for the lid. Cheers
I think I understand what you mean. I'll try that next time! 👍 Thanks Mandy
Sweet Dylan 💕 I would have put an inner frame of wood, you know like some boxes are made. The frame make the lid stay put but it will be easy to pull off when needed. I hope you get what I'm trying to explain, English is my second language 😛
Like in the corners, yes!
That is my thought too. Even just 4 strips that do not have to accomodate the corners.
You did a marvelous job upholstering both the chair and footstool.
I may repolster my dining chair some day, your videos are a good inspiration with lots of good tips to do this :) thank you
I would personally make a small frame on the underside of the lid so it would be a tight fit lid. All my timber gets delivered on monday for my workshop and I just received my epdm roof so I cant wait to start building it 😁😁
Ha, exactally what i thought so it just lifts on and off.
Very nice job on that stool. What a great find! I'd agree with others who have said to make the lid into a fitted box lid type thing and skip the hinges entirely.
And very nice shot of Mr. Dylan lounging on his yellow stool against that gorgeous green wall.
A 10 minute lesson from Jay Blades on upholstery corners and you could transform both pieces. And you can’t beat a Parker Knoll wood frame chair - always buy them when you see them. Good work as always
But Jay Blades would have painted one leg white, he likes an odd look!!
I love this video! I like how you find things and help them have a new purpose, rather than just buying a cheap product that isn't well made. Really enjoy all your videos =)
Nice result 👍🏻 well done. When I cant get hinges to play for lids and stuff I’ve used rare earth magnets to have a lift on lift off lid. it works quite neatly.
I really love your restoration projects. It's a great job !
A set of cleats around the inside of the lid for a tight fit might do it. If you wanted to keep to hinges they are available with various geometries to throw the door / lid away from the closure surface - like your kitchen cupboards. Try a search on offset hinges. And thanks for your content, always valuable. And well done for supporting Leo's one handed challenge. Respect!
My Parker Knoll Armchair restoration video: ua-cam.com/video/uC7PlS2DHSU/v-deo.html
My Card Scraper Sharpening video: ua-cam.com/video/h-KYqsAPMqk/v-deo.html
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Could you cut a small rebate in the underside of the lid at each side to clear the legs?
Maybe just chamfer the top of the legs under the lid at the hinge side?
The stool is missing rubber pads on all 4 legs! You might have to adjust the screw holes on lid for the hinges
Gotta work on the upholstery skills . Great work on everything else though
....thank you for brightening my day with another great refinishing project! Such fun watching you work and your explanation about what you're doing and why...
6 months to dry out. You poms really have rubbish weather 😂😂 great work mate
When pulling upholstery into a cushion, you are doing it right to start in the center, but if you keep turning it and adding staples one or two to a side, instead of stapling across a whole side at one. So center on on four sides, then one to left and right, rotate to next side and do one to left and right, and keep going until you just have the four corners to do. That will really help pull the fabric more evenly, wear more evenly, and look better.
Great find , and awesome repurpose. 👍🏽
Excellent save, you could make a thin walled box that attaches to the underside of the lid that fits snuggly into the bottom which hold the top in place, then you could even lift it off and use it on your lap as a lap pad or desk of sorts? Maybe....just a thought.
Lose the lid , put a draw in from the side where the hinges were , use the piece of wood your remove for the draw front , I think for you it's a quick and easy alteration, hope you like the idea , great vid
Nice little makeover project. Thanks for sharing. The heating tip for stubborn nails is perfect. Never seen/heard that before.
Maybe it helps when you round over the bottom side of the lid on the back to prevent it from rubbing the upper part of the apron of the stool.
Love doing furniture restores.
Nice video again Keith they look well together
I vote for rosewood and the create a snug inner rim jewelry box idea (that several of your readers suggested. It should be easy to repair the former hinge cut-outs with dutchmen repairs.
I love recycling of this stool. One thing you can do is maybe turn that into a secret drawer? The space is empty anyway, and I think if you just made a small drawer and used a rail as the face then it would work out pretty well. Maybe even add like a fun secret way to open it like with a magnet or a push-release.
Pure alchemy, well done.
The "big secret" is you use wider hinges that cover the full span of the overhang so that the pin lines up with the edge of the top. That way when you raise it, it stays clear of the apron and the top of the legs.
great video and great project turned out really good
Looking good, a dowel in each corner, and an oversized hole in the lid to make for easy alignment,don't tell the Mrs you don't this then you can have a hidi hole 👍👍
Another great furniture makeover Keith, cheers from Argentina!
Thank you!
Another great restoration (I said on the chair video that I didn't much like the colour but I admit it's now growing on me now ;) ) Regarding the lid, I think I've seen these stools like this with a metal retaining device that just doesn't let them open all the way up, maybe because they were made only to keep small amounts of piano music inside. I think it was a kind of elongated metal loop that had a pin in the loop fixing it with a recess allowing it to fold into the rail when it closed and that came out when the lid opened, but only so far. I saw what I thought would have been part of this kind of mechanism on one of the sides, although I didn't see the recess on the matching side. I hope I've explained it well enough and please forgive me if I've got it wrong, as the stools I'm thinking of were in my primary school, many years ago.
thank you! I understand
Blimey, I started refurbing an identical stool today!
Mine someone had used a silicone mastic to fix a couple of the joints.
Couple of comments that one or two may have mentioned already. To overcome lid opening a small concave cut out where the lid fouls the leg is the best option to overcome the problem. True it would only open 90 degrees, but that is better than 0 degrees. Maybe it would have been easier to remove varnish etc before re-assembly thus avoiding the problem up against leg shoulder. I agree with a previous comment that it is Afrormosia (currently Cities listed ) so forget about trying to get any unless you can find some second hand. Good video and just shows what can be done with minimum outlay. Stay safe
A suggestion add an internal c shape matched on the seat so you generate a sliding top. Good video.
If you get your hands on some free drawer slides you can actually use a couple of those and slide the lid horizontally. That is of course if they have no play in them so they do not make rattling noises when in use.
Different type of hinge - one with an angle that lifts the lid up and then backwards.
Magnets + guide blocks to keep the lid in place.
Some sort of swivel mount (center or corner) to slide the lid sideways.
I have no idea what it's called in English, but we call it a "kulesneppert" in Norwegian - a pair of those should work very nicely; probably one of the best solutions to the "problem". Locks quite good, takes care of sideways movement (mounted at a 90 degree angle), quite sturdy and not too hard to fit.
Good job, it looks really nice
Love the renovation, no-one likes brown wood these days & so much gets scrapped or burned. Even worse chalk painted!
A bit of chamfer relief at the top of the legs & underside of the seat might do the trick, but the seat wasn't designed to rotate more than 90°, so a small chain or restraint to stop it might do the trick. (The brass loop bracket on the frame is a give away)
The screw holes might need drilling out and a dowel insert as the threads are likely stripped. I noticed a mix of slot & pozi screw heads, someone fixed it before!
Nice restoration job. I would like to keep the lid removable; someone will find the perfect items to store inside... just tack little strips to form a lip inside to register the lid against the aprons. Making the inner lid into a wooden tray when turned upside down is also very popular nowadays.
Dylan models the stool perfectly!
Nice job Blofeld 👍🏻
My suggestion for the hinges: Take an angle grinder and shorten the hinges. Than put them in the corner on the legs. So the pivot point in further back. No need for ordering parts.
I'd say just heavily chamfer the top side of the legs. No need to plane off the entire sides. I've seen it quite a few times for these kinds of constructions.
Yes and chamfer the underside of the top/lid
My thoughts exactly !
Agreed
Best solution. By far. Exactly what i came to suggest.
All you need is rubber pads on top of all the legs!
Another really nice restoration Keith - god knows why people think its a good idea to pin mortise and tenon joints - the amount of pieces I've broken trying to get them out! For the hinge, the first thing I thought of was to screw a couple of strips of timber to the top that fit inside the bottom opening. This would allow you to easily take it on and off, without any movement (hope that makes sense!)
yeah it's quite annoying, it's like they didn't trust the glue to do it's job! cheers, yeah that makes sense 👍
To use the hinges just put a piece of 1/4" thick by 1" or 3/8's high trim against the rail, all the way around. You already cut the legs so you are not hurting anything by adding a trim. Attach your hinges and a small swing latch on the front to tie the sides together.
Nice job Keith! You might consider putting a slight bevel on the top of the back legs to give you clearance or notch out the frame of the top where the legs interfere.
Great project, Keith!
Excellent work. Dylan is a big fan obviously. Perhaps magnets to hold the lid down?
You could attach the top with some velcro in the corners,you can then still use the storage.
Amazing work.
Maybe a drawer and the top fixed ?
Instead of using hinges, you can also use 2 strips of leather as hinges like a suitcase.
you might want to use some rare earth magnets to hold the top in place. Then with a few of alignment pins (nail with head cut off and rounded) would also act as a mechanical support for lateral movement when you put feet on top, push stool from side to stop the lid /top from slipping.
That wood looks like either sapele or teak, good restoration by the way 👍
Great project!
You could use a surface mount lift off (overlay style) cabinet hinge sometimes called a chest hinge or a pivot hinge either exposed or internal all of these just move the pivot point as part of the design geometry so the top has enough lift during operation to clear.
Hi Keith. Maybe some rebate on the top of the back. So the lid would open. Nice project for 50p.
Just looks wonderful !!😊
If you simply attached blocks to the underside of the lid to sit snugly inside the apron and eliminate the hinges, then the lid can be fully lifted off and replaced and you have that small added but if storage but keep the original look.
Try some inset hinges like used in kitchen cupboards maybe? Or instead of hinges. Add a lip to the underneath of the top so that it turns into a removable lid if that makes sense?
One idea would be to mount blocks on the underside of the top that match the internals corners of the bottom, that way you would use it a loose top which would be secured in place by the blocks?
Skip the hinges, I've just built a mantel piece for my fire place, I've put removable front panels on the cloums using magnetic cabinet latches,
Take the hinges out, fill the housings and use magnets instead so it just lifts off. Maybe a small batten on the underside of the lid to locate it and stop it sliding off when you put your feet up
Great video and great work again Keith love your videos , really inspiring , i love how honest and natural you are . Keep up the good work buddy :)
Put some hinges that have the leafs a bit deeper, from the barrel pivot point to the outside edge, so the pivot is more outside of the edge of the legs
The wood is mahogany.
To get around the hinge problem raise the hinges higher by placing a strip of wood under the hinges and putting a couple of clear rubber bumper pads/ feet/stops on the front the same thickness as the wood you use at the back. This way it clears the stool. I think the stool legs cracked because the top was overextended you need stronger hinges. 🙂
re: the lid. You can create a skirt that runs around the parameter on the top and then just slot it into the bottom. You don't have to do the whole inside lip with the square parts of the legs jutting upwards into the cavity, you could just do the long flat sides and make it a bit tight so that it doesn't want to pull out easily.
Hi Keith,another piece of unwanted junk saved and given a new lease of life,it was a good vidio wich I enjoyed,with regards to the problem of the hinged lid there is a simple solution,all you need to do is chisel away the material on the lid which comes into contact with the legs,it only amounts to the depth of how much the leg protrudes from the apron,problem solved,all done it would not be noticed,take care and stay healthy .
Thanks Colin
What about a couple of dowels glued in the base and corresponding holes in the lid? Not a hinge but would prevent the top sliding about and still keep the storage.
Good idea with the strop compound on the cloth!
cheers John
Nice restoration.
Hi... One possibility is to use bowl hinges, they are not very expensive and you could give it a space that affects the base.
You could attach a wood strip flange along the frame of the lid and eliminate the hinges altogether. Lift the lid on and off.
I have funny feeling at some point the rubber pads on top of the legs were lost and the previous owner rebated the hinges so top would would sit flat! you might need to adjust screw holes on the lid if you go with my rubber pad recommendation
looks like iroko to me. Hard as nails, partly due to the tendency to draw sand up from the roots. Used to be known as poor mans teak but not as durable or pretty. Parliament style hinges would fix the hinge issue - they are deeper so the pivot point is further away and lifts the lid/door clear of the frame. Usually used for doors with deep recesses or where you want 180 degree opening. Failing that a little chamfer on the top of the legs but that would be noticeable. Thanks for posting.
Stick the off cuts from each leg to each corner of the lid in such a way to hold it in place when fitted - similar to the other suggestions of using battens, hope this makes sense to everyone 😁
Another Great project and video Keith. Out of interest why didn’t you remove the finish while you had everything disassembled? I always find it such a pain removing finish from those difficult corners and would think it’s far easier when apart if you are taking that step.
I would try bigger hinges. If you fit them to the same rebates then the pivot point will be proud of the edge of the rail.
Maybe a frame that is attached to the underside of the lid and fits into the base would work? Even adding 4 narrow strips that are not joined at the corners would keep the lid secure.
How about those friction lid supports you see in toy chests that prevent the lid from slamming. You can adjust them so they hold the lid at an angle where it’s not opening all the way back. OR remove the hinges and make the top removable like you see with storage cubes.
It was strangely satisfying seeing that nail come out....
I recently made a footrest for my rocking chair modeled off this vid!
Forget the hinges, just make some wooden inner guides and have it open like a box
Great job, Mr Brown. Top five Rag n Bone vid!
Hi Keith, when getting glue into thin cracks, I've found a thin artists pallet knife to be indispensable. You might have found the finishing easier if you'd done it before the glue up. Especially, the apron rails. Also, the timber looks like it might be Sapele ( a type of mahogany). You said you thought it might be Rosewood, if so, be especially careful with the dust ( a bit late now I know).
I like the idea of adding wood to make a push on lid... but if it doesn't need be so air tight you could use a piece of wood on the top of each hinge that raises the lid and do the same on the front... or add a full lip all the way around either way, lifting the lid to clear the hinges
What about using some good sized dowels that are glued into the top of the legs which then fit into a hole in the top so the top can be taken on and off but still solid enough to be used as a foot stool 😊
Nice looking job. Only comments would be:
1. Why not scrape the legs and apron whilst they were apart before regluing ads you would get a cleaner removal?
2. Rather than hinge the lid, fix thing batten all around (except at the legs) the lid to hold the lid in place from side to side movement in much the same way as you would if you were making a box with a completely removable lid. Either that, (my preference) or use kitchen cabinet hinges.
Perhaps you could pop a strip of similar wood 2-3mm thick , on top of the existing frame (or on the underside of the lid). This should give enough clearance for the lid to open without looking too much different to the original?
Route a slot on the underside of the lid where it comes into contact with the legs when opening the lid. This gives the leg corner a place to go rather than pushing back against the lid.
That's the best option, I think.