How to Install LED Lights In Shower Niche --- ACTUAL JOB!!
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- How To Install LED LIGHTS in SHOWER NICHE--with dimmer switch ACTUAL JOB!
In this video, I show exactly how to install a IP65 LED light strip in a large "Infinity" shower niche. Everyone watching this will benefit.
Please do not try this unless you are a qualified electrician. If you are not-- I suggest you share this video link with an electrician, so he can help you with it.
This video shows step by step installation of the wall dimmer switch, the 20W AC/DC transformer, and the wiring and installation of the strip itself.
If you would like to see how the tile work and profile is installed, please watch this video : • How to make a Lighted ...
Please share this video with someone who could use this video in order to help them get what they want out of their life and business.
Keep the Craft alive by sharing this video with someone who might want to get into the building trades! My goal is to be an inspiration to them.
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You can get a stainless steel strip these days that looks like a U shaped tile trim that the led sits in and a frosted plastic strip that covers over it, this gives a very pro install look. On LEDs if the polarity for the DC to them is wrong you don't have to worry about blowing them up as they are a diode and just won't work if you get +v & -v wrong
Can you send a link my chance
Came to say the same. Also love your username lol
At 6:50, 120VAC will not cause interference with low voltage LED lighting. Shielded cable only helps in data transmission or analog signals in high noise environments. Running low voltage DC for LED lighting near 120VAC will have zero effect, the induced currents are far too low to do anything to the LED lighting.
Yup you're correct. Also 12V isn't low voltage, neither is it just low power. You can run several amps and it would be considered high power. signals like LVDS (example hdmi) are considered low voltages. It depends on the rise of falling time of the signals that will impact the adjacent wires or traces. All in all great video with the install though 👌.
Thanks for the good chuckle, there will be some degree of 60Hz noise on the DC line, but meh, for some pesky LED who would care for few hundres millivolts of ac noise.
Do you have links to the products used in this video?
I placed the links and it got deleted by someone
@@derrickd5 hi derrick could you send links agin?
@@DarkWarfreak got them from here. Message them before this link is removed. They will help you on what you need for your project
@@derrickd5 how can I get the link for the led and power supply?
I need the products. Is it possible to please get them? Much appreciated.
What is the model of the transformer and where did you purchase it? Also, did you use IP65 or IP67 LED strip?
Is it necessary to have gfci protection for the niche light? Also could you explain where you hide the 12v electrical box please?
Since is is a 5 year old video, has the installation requirements of the dimmer and transformer ( and location n attic) changed.
Hey Isaac where can I get the transformer?
Homedepot have 120v to 12v driver box for only $38 guys
That double sided tape ain't gonna last
Curious of the failure rate on this method? We love the look, but have concerns about reliability and how often repair/replacement is needed. Anyone have info on this after 12 months? 3 years? longer?
I put in some amazon outdoor lights for someone... lots of them on all their outdoor stairs. Its been 3 years and still working. They thought they had them set to come on at dusk and turn off at dawn with the programmable wifi... but when I came back a year later to do other things, discovered they were just on all the time, just hard to tell during the daytime. lol So they ran for about the first year 24/7 and the next two years on all night every night... and still working.
How does the adhesive hold up through time in that environment?
Most DIY lighting stuff that I have seen for permanent fixture applications such as this use blocks of polished acrylic glued/sealed in place, with the led strip hidden on the other side. The acrylic diffuses the light so it all looks smooth, and also makes it so that the structure can stay in-tact while the led’s can later be replaced if needed. So, in this example, instead of running the led strip through the side of the niche, you would instead put like a 1”x1”x8” polished acrylic block up into the top back of the niche so that the top of the block is sticking up through the niche. You’d then glue/seal it in place. Then you would would stick the led strip to the top of the block so that it is shining down through the block and into the niche. Preferably, there would be an access panel on the other side of the wall to change out the led’s if the ever burn out. Then you would have a permanent and sealed structure in the shower itself, with no electrical components tied to it, while also having it both lighted and accessible for maintenance. The same methodology could be use for other cases as well, such as an acrylic shelf within the niche with the acrylic sticking through the sides of the niche into the wall and the led’s being on both sides shining into the shelf so it has a soft lighted glow, in a lighted acrylic chair rail, etc. Try UA-cam’ing “led acrylic” or something like that for ideas. There’s also fiber optics that some very high end contractors use, with thick fiber optic cords that split into like a hundred that they then place into concrete work, with a thing in the attic that shines light into it through rotating diffuser lenses, so that it looks like stars are twinkling in the concrete when it’s turned on. I watch too much UA-cam lol
I like the ideas you present in your comments. It fuels the imagination. 🤔😁
I also appreciate you sharing your idea. Because i was watching the video and thinking what if the led strip adhesive fails, which is more common problem than a burn out. A clear acrylic strip could potentially be applied after what he did in the video to add security and extra protection, just a thin film of acrylic as you suggested would be sufficient to hold it up in case the led strip wants to fall or rest on something. Probably wouldn't be hard to remove later and his method still works because the wirng is there and is easy to repair or replace going up into the attic or what have you. Yes we definitely watch too much UA-cam
I’m attempting this in our shower, but it is a retrofit job and therefore I bought a waterproof led channel that can be slid in and then use some color matching caulk to “seal” it in place. Then if anything happens to the led strip I can just score the caulk and pull out the channel. Pretty close to being done, but I’m a novice at soldering so having difficulties between working in the shower and the precision needed as I have a rgb strip which requires four wires.
What transformer and led light strip did you use and where did you buy them? I'm looking to do the same thing. Thank you
Thanks for the video. This is so smooth. I was wondering how you recessed the strip right before you showed the Schluter strip.
Super clean finish.
It is a clean finish, one I can be envious of.
Show the strip better
As a retired plumber, leader of industry, historian, and all around badass. You should never do eletrical work in the dark. Nor should you do it without the proper safety attire. Eg goggles, helmet, safety glasses, sunscreen, wet wipes, and steal toed boots. You my friend are putting your life at risk...
Just saying
@@TileCoach I left that out because i figured that went without saying. But yes. Sunblock with a minimum spf of 39 for indoor work and 59 for outdoor work.
Don't forget 2 condoms and mum on speed dial...
those lutron have a adjustment on the side ,for fine tuning the dimmer function ,the instructions tell you about it
How much does that system cost
Absolutely gorgeous... I love your dedication to the profession, one of the most honest attitudes I've seen in tradesmen. Keep up the good work. One day I'll grow a pair, find some time off, and get the funds to redo my bathroom! One day!
Is the Schluter Deco-SG profile height 5/16''? 3/8, 7/16? I am thinking if the tile is 1/4'' thick then the 5/16'' profile is adequate? I take it the width should be 9/16'' and not 5/32" to accomodate the LED strip? Can you share the exact schluter model and specs used? Thanks
I had the same question. Did you ever find out?
I would think they would require a gfci on the supply to that in case of an electrical issue on the transformer.
There probably is GFCI on everything going into that bathroom. The first plug receptical going into any well wired bathroom that has the hot line...used for the whole room is usually a GFCI switch.
All the bathrooms I have remodeled that are 20 years old or newer are already done that way
from one professional to another I love the fact that you are anal about safety and aesthetics and go far and beyond to get the added insurance when it come to peoples lives as well...keep doing what you do.
Anal ?
If you have to tell people you're a professional 😂😂
Question: What exact schluters is needed? I have tried to find the "SG 110 Profile" from Schluters as mentioned on the video, but cannot find it.
Deco SG
@@TileCoach Thank you! But what width? There doesn’t seem to be a standard size…
Great video! 2 Questions... 1. Do you have links to both the lights and Power Supply? 2) If you have multiple locations in the same area can you use the same Power Supply for all of the locations. Thank you.
Does anyone know what products Isaac is using here in this video? Specifically the Strip lighting brand and Transformer brand?
Good idea, illegal execution. There is code for all building materials and methods to install. This install would fall under the NFPA 70 National Electrical Code. Since you published the Vid in 2019 I would say you are under the 2017 Edition. Here are the three Code violations so any one reading this can use there favorite search engine and see it for themselves.
NEC 110.14(B)Soldered splices shall first be spliced or joined so as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder and be soldered.
NEC 410.10 (D) Bathtub and Shower Areas. No parts of Cord-connected luminaries, chain-,or cord-suspended luminaries, lighting track, pendants, or ceiling-suspended (paddle) fans shall be located within a zone measured 900 mm (3ft) horizontally and 2.5 m (8ft) vertically from the top of the bathtub rim or shower stall threshold. This zone is all encompassing and includes the space directly over the tub or shower stall. Luminaries located within the actual outside dimension of the bathtub or shower to a height of 2.5 m (8ft) vertically from the top of the bathtub rim or shower threshold shall be marked for damp locations, or marked for wet locations where subject to shower spray.
NEC 210.8 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel
NEC 210.8 (A) (9) Bathrubs or shower stalls.
To those of you who say the transformer is located in the attic and only low voltage goes into the shower via # AWG 18-2 conducter. At any time the LED driver can fail and cause full voltage to travel down either one of the wires to the LED strip lighting and cause a deadly situation for anyone who is grounded (naked in a wet shower). And no this does not have to trip the breaker. There is a reason For GFCI protection for anywhere you are around water. It is to protect the human being from dangerous events. Not to protect the light in this situation.
I do not recommend getting Electrical advice from anyone other than a Certified and qualified Electrician or Electrical Engineer. Please be safe out there.
Thanks for the Vid. It has really entertained our shop though.
OKay First I am a Qualified Electrician and Can Comment legally and competently on this subject. You can not make either of those statements. No offense. You say above the video is for entertainment and Education. Yet you have no qualifications according to the state of California to make this video or advise the public on electrical installations. And saying talk to a local electrician before you do the work does't release any liabilty to some one who gives you 100% directions to do something. And since you are doing a step by step video, I would definitely say this is advising. Secondly, Underwritten Labatories (UL LISTED Label for united states and Canada) certify what is considered approved electrical connections. I am sorry to say that twisting two wires with your hand is not recognized as mechanically and electrically secure. Putting a crimp on it after twisting would accomplish that though. Its little things like that, that a Qualified person would know. So you say it is fussed at both ends so that means its impossible for 120Volts to get to the strip light (which the code says can't go in a immediate bathtub or shower area). Again I am sorry to tell you that a fuse has nothing to do with Voltage (Electrical potential). It has to do with amps (Electrical Flow). So unless the fuse is fused for .340 amps (340 ma) it will not break the flow at a dangerous level to the human heart. Again this is basic 101 Electrical knowledge.
So why is there a fuse you ask? The LINE fuse is to protect the LED driver from drawing to much amps in the case of a failure and causing to much heat, and then cause a fire. The Secondary fuse is the same principle, to protect the smaller gauge wire and the fixture from becoming to hot and causing a fire. I don't know the Electrical engineer who DESIGNED this (He didn't build it some person in China built it) but I doubt he is a lot smarter than me. I would say we are on equal levels, though I know I am not the smartest person in the world.
One thing to remember Electricity can kill. So if one of your subscribers does this and someone is killed! You are going to be the prosecutes best witness. He just has to play the video for the jury and get someone like me and a code book on the stand and you are Toast!! So as a Tile guy is it worth keeping this video up and possibly injuring someone?
There is a general agreed understanding from the Medical field of how much Amperage (flow) it takes to stop the heart. Example if I am grounded at my feet in a wet shower and 50 Volts AC ( The theory of minimum volts to over come the resistance of average humane beings Skin and penetrate body, thus everything below 50Volts AC is considered low voltage) of electricity at 170 ma touches me anywhere above the chest I am going to have sever pain and my hand will clutch tight, and my heart is in danger of stopping to beat. Anything above that is possibly deadly. 300 ma is a common reference as You are definitely getting to much flow and are dead. Example two if I am in the same wet shower and 240 Volts AC touches me anywhere above the chest but only 10 ma flows it will not stop my heart, but is more than a tingle and may hurt. It is not voltage but amperage that stops the heart. But I am not a MD so here is link to what all Electricians are supposed to be taught first about electricity. www.elcosh.org/document/1624/888/d000543/section2.html
youre right that fixture shouldnt even be in that stall.
Wow, so after all that you decide to prove yourself right by getting a cup of water and testing what YOU THINK I said on a live electric circuit with no GFCI protection!! First I never said Low voltage DC would Electrocute you. I am not going to explain anymore. I am going to stop any communication with you or your channel before you get yourself or someone else seriously injured. For the record I do not agree any unqualified person (as defined by NFPA 70 NEC) to perform, instruct, practice, diagnose or troubleshoot any electrical system.
@@TileCoach They are right about the crimping. Everything else was just fine. As safe as putting a pot light in a shower
Make sure to not put silicone on solder joints as it will oxidize the connections and cause them to fail
This looks amazing. A tip I learned from an old timer is to make the cuts offset on the wire so one long meets a short and the short meets a long so the wires can never touch and are less bulky.
I usually do that on almost all of my projects on auto mode. Even though it may seem like a common sense idea, you'd be surprised how many people don't do it. I learned to do this from a mistake i made when i tried to reuse a computer power supply for another temporary project and when the wires touched it made a huge mess. Thank you for sharing.
I was going to write that :)
WHERE DID YOU GET THE TRANSFORMER FROM??
I'm sold! Working on a remodel and adding a niche. Wife thinks I'm crazy for this extra added cost but I think it's worth it. Thanks for posting this detailed instructional video.
Nice work Isaac, as an engineer I like it when people point out the specs and requirements like the IC ratings, otherwise people will go to Target and buy Christmas LEDS! BTW I'm the same way with the wall plate screws. Good job on accurately sizing the switch box cutout. I find so many contractors who installed switch boxes, and made the box cutout drywall holes too big, now the box tabs have no drywall meat to grab onto. Also if anyone is planning on installing LEDs like this, a word of caution here, make sure your niche back wall was tiled perfect with no lippage. With LEDs shining straight down the back wall of the niche like that, it will shine an ugly spotlight on every flaw and lippage tile you have, creating harsh shadows.
😂😂😂
FYI that is a IP67 LED strip. It's more water resistant than IP65, and is what I would use for the job. You should try digital LEDs sometime and see how RGB affects the outcome.
@@TileCoach This gentleman over here explains the different types of water proofing on the LED strips. If you ordered IP65 and received IP67, you got a good deal. I find that IP67 LEDs are a little more expensive.The IP65 Enclosure - IP rated as "dust tight" and protected against water projected from a nozzle. While the IP 67 Enclosures - IP rated as "dust tight" and protected against immersion.
ua-cam.com/video/-ThivQtw8sU/v-deo.html
not interferance, it will cause induction into the lie, which can be dangerous. especially because your voltage is lower that means the current will be higher causing a larger and stronger faradays grip field across the cable
good work Issac do u have a amazon link for that specific led light? thx in advance
Kind of curious why they’d want the bathroom dimmer in the closet...
This is a nice install. I may try a light on my next shower. Thanks for the idea. One thing I like to do when soldering, I stagger my connections so they do not make the joint fat.
Always
can you share the link of the products you used please? And thanks for this video
You forgot to tape the wire nuts so they dont vibrate loose and short out.
nobody does that, and there are trillions of wire nuts out there
Didnt know Murr had this side gig😂😂
Hahaha
Is it normal in the USA that the hot wire and the switch wire is the same colour? Here in the Netherlands/EU that is a no go.
Fase wire = brown
0 wire = blue
Ground wire = green/yellow
Switch wire is black. Also a non protected groundwire, that wouldnt pass inspection here neither.
Man in need 2 start exporting some nl switches, those u using in the USA ar ugly as hell.
And about the shower, goddamn what an fantastic job i really like watchings ur vids.
Keep up the good work
Greetz from the Netherlands
Hot and switched wires are the same color, yes. Saves on wiring, as plain 2 conductor/1 ground wiring is useful for so many tasks, rather than stocking another type. Bare ground wires are standard.
Use heat gun instead of torch
I would like to know what type of switch you used for that LED PLZ IM WORKING ON MY BATHROOM
How do you wire a dimmer when there is an existing single pole switch for a light and a separate single pole for the attic fan. (2-gang box already)
Why does it need to be that dimmer switch? And why 3-way?
That’s awesome Isaac thanks for sharing. So I just installed one similar, what I did different is this: I pulled power from a GFI outlet (for extra protection) and instead of a regular dimmer switch the LED lights are controlled by a sensor switch that is also dimmable. Lastly I had to put the converter inside a closet because where I live the winters and summers make the temperature in the attic extreme. I am going to try the Schluter trim next time. Thanks for sharing
Does anyone know where I can order this Schluter? Need it today! Contractor is standing by to install. Thank you all.
I'd wire it all up and test it before peeline the adjesive and tucking it into the channel, but thats me.
@tilecoach what is the width of the LED strip and the width of the Schluter SG 110 ? There are different widths for each.
Our county (Beaufort, SC) says we can't do this because it's against code. Do you know how I can convince them otherwise?
Good day, sir. Do you have a link from Amazon where I can purchase the niche led lights?
Where did you get the led light and the dimmer ?
Can you tell me what model of transformer you used? The LED lights i ordered have a female connector and they sent a plug in converter. I want to cut off the plug and use a transformer like you used. Could you tell me what the model number is on the transformer or name of the transformer? I cant seem to find one like you used! Thank you so much!
LED bulb spot,candle,need,welcome connect
Why not use clips instead of solder, and why not just a heat gun or lighter instead of blow torch?
Terrible filming , if you do tutorial bring someone with skils or use tripod . I want to see the actual work not someone`s hand , head or empty space in a bathroom , oh good .
my electrician is a girl she is pritty butch but no gay and even though im in one of the capitals of gay pride she is straight but ya my electrician is a girl..
Now if you got some individually addressable LED strip you could pair it with an arduino flashed with WLED software and then have wifi controllable, dim-able and color adjustable (with custom scenes you could set) niche lighting.
Is the LED profile in front of the wall mosaic or does the mosaic butt up to the bottom?
Do you have to have a dimmer switch to run the led strip or you can use the light switch as well?
Hey my friend where can i get that transformer ?
Thats a BIG niche .u need a motion sensor light switch when ya get in the bathroom..Then you set it ,and forget it, with a little heat under the tile....(From Cont Tile. 20 yr setter..JS) Beautiful work 2
Isaac Ostrom yes Lutron has one. But it has to be a certain model that can handle more than 5 amps
You should stagger the wires so you don’t have a big blob in the center
Isaac. You're a good man paying attention to those screws in a cover plate. Surprisingly it does add to the over all aesthetics.
They are usually oriented vertically, the practical reason (mostly for outdoor installation) being that waterdrops will slide off the screws in stead of getting caught.
@@Null-- well everyone knows that.
one of the first things my j-man taught me when i started. sadly everyone got laid off about 2 years after i started, and i would have to say i have never worked with an electrician that taught me so much and was as good at explaining things as he was. wish i could have stuck with him until i became a journeyman.
Looks good and great idea ... but if this is a genuine site job, those solder joints (especially the one that you couldn't get the heatshrink over!) could have been better. I'd also recommend testing connectivity before insulating and fitting/sealing.
Do you have the link of the
products that you use?
Gr3at video but noticed the other switch was not grounded.
Where can I get RGBW LED STRIPS.
What strip you recommend?
On the wire, staples do not make tight, only loose snug. Can cause wire problems down the road.
Whats the name of the tile edge with the slot for the led strip?
I would like part information so I can order…
where did you buy your IP65 Strips?
That shower looks awesome and with LEDs that just makes it that much better! Great job! Thanks for showing how to correctly install the new drywall switch box. Very good to know info! God bless.
Love! Do you have links for products used in this video?
Is it safe to have the power supply I. The attic?
What strip can I use?
Do you have links to the products used in this video?
This is really helpful for a project I'm working on, thanks for sharing
If I’m NOT using a dimmer switch, what LED output would give a soft, gentle glow? A glaring, bright white light is not my goal for niche illumination. THANK YOU!
ybaB siht od nac I
My apologies if you have already. I didn't go through all 264 comments.
Can you provide a parts list?
Link to buy parts ???
Great looking shower and niche! What was the part # of the strip lighting you used?
Very risky giving half info. DIYers will try this and will need exactly what to use. Great how to though. Anyone trying this though needs to be sure to verify wattage of light strip length. It will not dim correctly if too long and exceeds 20W. Get a transformer that has the required minimum output. Make sure if testing setup, you cut the length you plan to use.
no link address for the LED, no purchase info for power converter, had to pause video to read the specs ..... very unfriendly
You’re killing me. Please please post links!!! These things are very hard to find!
niche is pronounced 'neesh'
Only if you’re a wanker. Pronounced WANG•KR
Hey, how could I install led lights under the bathroom vanity?
Look at the cracked tile while soldering. Bummer. Hope he caught that before the customer did.
It looks like all it was was a shadow.
The transformer box is way off plumb.... Sorry, I'm a bit neurotic when it comes to that shit!
Just the LED lighting, there is a lot time consuming, I would add another $500.00 dollars part and labor. I don't know how much you gonna charge.
How much do you averagely charge for this extra function??
12v makes it very safe. put it on a GFI circuit and this idea becomes 100% cool
Please can you give me part number to product and how far can you run 16g wire, does it have to stranded or solid can you use 18g as well
What kind of transformer did you install there for the LED lights?
Hey guys. How are you all getting away w/the electrical inspector? Ours wanted a UL listing to this and had concerned that the driver was meant for this usage. Thanks in advance!!
Typically, an electrician will take the power from the room that the fixture is being installed in. It is less confusing that way. Additionally, the switch would also be in the same room and not remote, as seen in this video. So why would an electrician prefer to use power from the room that the product is being installed in? Well, its a safety issue. When an LED strip or luminaire, or power plug(aka receptacle) needs service, electricity is actually turned off at the breaker which supplies the power to that room. It may seem like a crazy practice, but electricians practice good habits so we stay in the land of the living.
If I just ran a cheap led light strip around the bathroom you think it'd be safe
often times I twist my wires w pliers, then wire nuts,and then black tape,cant come apart, I've seen connections come apart and wire nuts come off,I even twist the wires together a little,if I have length,
I was thinking the same thing
black tape is completely superfluous. wire nuts don't just come off. any connections you've seen with wire nuts coming off was a bad install to begin with. i do agree that pre-twisting is a good idea, but electricians are divided on this on forums. but i've now migrated to wago lever nuts, so I don't have to worry about that anymore.
@@fd3871 I've seen poor connections ,where nut is loose ,and allows wires to lose contact,
@@sonofthunder. ok, but wire nuts don't just come loose on their own. there is no mechanic in an electrical box that would cause wires or wire nuts to move around and come loose. so it must have been a poor install in the first place.
I have already opened up and trying to get the project done. What Schluter model and what size should I get and where can I get it