He needs to be an honorary you tube instructor. His attention to detail. His even keel manner to which he instructs. He reminds me of Wilson from home improvement. A plethora of knowledge. Inspires a person to learn.
Pay attention where he puts the Allen wrench, THAT IS THE KEY OF GETTING IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. And I wanna say thanks for this video it was a big help.
I just picked up a 2012 Nissan Altima 3.5 with the solenoid A code p0746 instead of buying just the solenoid I ordered a new valve body and will be replacing it in a week this video was helpful thank you so much
The Allen wrench tip ! Didn’t know and haven’t seen that tip before....had valve body out twice trying to figure why it wasn’t shifting...then I found your video... 3rd times a charm ,A huge THANK YOU !
Thank you. I've been searching for a step by step video. I appreciate you taking your time to explain everything. I need to replace my control solenoid. Now I know what to do.
Thanks for the video. I just did this job on my sisters 2007 Nissan, would not have done it if it was not for your video. Like I said before, I got the same codes and the transmission went into limp mode, Took it to a shop and they could not figure it out and sent us to a transmission shop, they too did not know what the problem was as they are new to CVT, but curiously the shop I had just come from sent me to them with a paper copy of the Nissan bulletin stating that the Valve body should be replaced with those codes and symptoms. But the Trans shop said they think it is an electrical issue not a transmission issue after keeping it overnight and said we should take it to an electrical shop. So I said FK it, Studied the service bulletin and found your video and decided to try it out. The refurbished assembly I found on ebay was like $150 and it already had all the parts, Rods/spring/sensor etc so I did not have to move anything from the old CVT assembly to the new one. Your video saved me from screwing things up primary with the info on what bolts to remove to get the unit out (I would have been pulling all kinds of bolts out and made a mess) and how to use the Allen wrench to hold the rod in position while installing. The 2 most helpful points. I also did not need to remove the electrical bracket at all. My fluid looked like motor oil and stunk the whole garage up, it was pretty burnt (luckily it looks like no damage to the rest of the CVT). Got that all put back in no problem. But to keep this problem from coming back in the future I also installed an external cooler (small radiator) to keep the fluid temp from going into meltdown again. I have been driving the car around town the last couple days to see if any issues come up before taking it on the longer commute to work (leaks/error codes - check engine light/ trans acting weird etc). error codes were erased and no code has returned as of yet and the trans seems to be functioning like a new car at this point. A day of work and maybe $300 total in parts and fluid. I can not imagine what a shop would have charged me to do the same job including parts considering I also installed a new block cooler with bypass to the new external cooler. I will start driving it to work tonight and report back in a week or two. Thanks again for the video and the replies to some of my questions, you were a huge help.
@@chinogodinez Pretty easy to install. I took out the top bolts that hold the radiator to the frame so I could lay it back a bit to give me room to work. Just pick the spot on the front of your existing radiator that you think eill get the best air flow and leaves a little room to rout your hoses for it and then you just mount by putting plastic stick like zip tie kind of things through/between the fins of the cooler and radiator. Easy. you will also need to replace the existing block mounted cooler with one that has the ports to allow the fluid to flow to the external cooler. as for the fluid, I just put the recomended ammount and idled the engine for a while through all gears then just checked the fluid level and added a little at a time till id was at proper lvl, I think it only took like an extra half qt. also check it daily for a couple days as the air works its way out and to watch for any leaks from any of the connections. To be safe I doubled up hose clamps on all the connections. so far no leaks and no issues, but the car has been mostly driven in the early morning or evening, no long distance drives in the hottest part of the day to really test the system out in the conditions it failed at.
I ended up with two of these Nissans. A 14 Altima and a 18 Rogue. So far no issues. I’m going to have my fluid changed every 50k and Hope for the best.
definately best one i've found thanks. Son and i doing same on 06' maxima; after 2-6 weeks of waiting for a new(supposedly) valve body off Amazon. Great directions.
Here is my experience: I purchased a 2015 Nissan Murano new in July 2015. We had transmission issues starting week 1! Hesitation and then over acceleration were addressed with multiple software tweaks but never corrected the issue. My CVT transmission failed and was replaced under warranty by Nissan in June 2019 at 52,000 miles. Today 11-29-21, at 62,100 miles, my transmission failed again due to the transmission oil/cooler/radiator assembly failing to cause the cooling fluid and the transmission fluid to mix, resulting in having to replace the Transmission, Radiator, and associated assemblies for a cost to me of approximately $6,700! Based on my research, this is a known issue with Nissan CVTs but was only partially addressed in the Class Action lawsuit because individual owners had to personally sue Nissan and their vehicle models and years were the only ones included in the extended warranty. How a judge does not include all Nissan vehicles with the CVT is beyond me especially when my dealership was replacing three a week when my 2015 Murano's CVT was replaced. All my service was completed at the dealership and we never prevent any work from being done when required. The only upside is Nissan is paying for 80% of the repair but I am still paying out of pocket on something I believe should be fully covered. If I had an Altima with the same issue it would be covered under the class action suit extended warranty coverage but the same CVT with known issues in another Nissan model is not covered!
P0845 is a circuit code though, not a performance code. I have fixed these by changing the wiring harness bolted to the valve body for the solenoids. The wire was broken right where it went to the solenoid connector and if you pull it slightly it will come apart because its just held there by the insulation. Never listen to anything nissan says about CVT's. Their fix for everything is to replace the cvt.
Gr8 vid, I am one of the lucky ones, I don’t have a CVT. I have a older 2001 Nissan Maxima, 203k miles It did have P0744 code. And shifting and driving. Badly, almost impossible to drive. Drained fluid, it came out black/brown, no metallic tint or metal shavings. About 1gal came out. I added a little over qts of ATF (valvoline max life synthetic ATF and 1 bottle of Lucus transmission fix). I also cleared the code Drove it 70 miles and the code came back but it was driving a lot better. Continued to drive it 300 miles later it was say 70% better, Shifting from 1->2 had some issues but all other shifts were smooth and mostly on time. 600 miles later it was even better 900 miles later it was almost back to normal. I cleared the code , and saw it was a little over full of ATF, so I pumped out some ATF to bring to right level. Check engine light hasn’t come back And it’s shifting consistently now, though the 1->2 shift sometimes happens a little over 3000 rpm. Only time will tell if this has resolved the issue. It is what it is, it’s old (19), high mileage car(203k) Living on lift support , runs smoothly now and shifting ok now as well. It leaks oil from rear mail seal that is tool costly to repair. It’s now my son’s first car. Hopefully he will get some years out of it. Maybe another 30-50k miles AT-205 and high mileage oil seem to help. I may drain ATF again sooner to get out more of the old fluid. A drain only gets out maybe 45% of ATF .
Just a heads up- the 'sensor" that looks like a black box on the side of the valve body is the slave ROM. It communicates with the TCM (transmission computer) to provide info about the valve body, etc. USUALLY a reman valve body will come with its own ROM. Didn't know anybody sold them reman'd without their own rom. If you put this car back together and you have weird error codes & weird performance (ESPECIALLY P17F), it's possibly related to this rom. One option is to force the TCM to relearn. Can be done w/ a consult-II/consult-III or some other scanners. Old valve bodies, maybe not as crucial, but on later models (post 2012?), it can be a big deal.
Thanks your car guy Managed to swap the solenoids with salvage one's but didn't work, code still on hoping to get a new ones instead of wreck yard and try to see. With Nissan sentra 2008, you have to unbolt every bolt on the valve body to drop it, just note it if you are trying on this car.
So sisters 2007 started acting up coming home from a couple hundred mile trip. Loud whine, speedometer stopped working and car was running in a lower gear and would not upshift. Took to a basic repair shop and they gave us a print out of that bulletin after doing basic diagnostics, told us codes were transmission related, We do have 2 of the codes listed. 840 and 845. They recommended a local transmission shop. We drove it to that shop (the car now running normally, weird) I have had it on short trips in town and it runs fine, but have not had it on the hwy, I thought it might be a PCM issue. The trans shop kept it for a day and told us they do not think it is the transmission but rather an electrical issue and recommended taking it to an electrical shop. What? They did admit they are new to CVT and do not quite understand them yet. But if the first shop found the bulletin saying if you have those codes then a valve body replacement is needed, why would a transmission shop ignore that and think it is not the valve body and think it is electrical issue? Do you think the shop is wrong? I did not notice the bulletin in our paperwork till after going back through it after watching your video. I offered the paperwork at the time to the trans shop but they did not seem to want it, just wrote down the codes. I plan on heading back over to the transmission shop later this week and ask them why they believe the issue is electrical and not a valve body issue. But just curious what you think. I will be looking for a different trans shop or maybe even the dealer. I am not really set up to do it myself being at an apartment complex. Also, is it common for the transmission to act up and then act normal with valve body issues?
John Norris the car in this video started having the same symptoms that you described and did it intermittently for several months before it was brought to me for repair. Many people will look at the codes and assume that it is a wiring issue which is partially true as the wiring and sensors that are part of the valve body are what is causing the issue. When your car sets the codes the transmission goes into limp mode. This is when it feels like it is running in a lower gear. Many times after you shut it off and restart it the codes will clear and it will drive normally. If the codes are cleared it will drive normally until it sets the code again. Many transmission shops only focus on mechanical failures and don’t do anything with the electrical part of the transmission.
At 8:30 inserting the Allen to lock in the shifter rod, I've followed another video that has has it coming in from a bolt hole closer to the valve. This has not worked me, I'm going to try your process and lock in form the pre-drilled factory hole
J V how were you able to know you missed I’m putting mine back on also I put 2 new stepper motors into it but still throws the p1774 and I have a feeling maybe I’m missing where that piece connects
Thanks for the good straight forward advice. I own a mechanic shop and this is a lot simpler than I thought it might me. You gave me the courage to NOT send this out to my rebuilder.
@@YourCarGuyDR I am desperate hoping you can help me. Just helped my friend but a new car she's a single mother and asked me to go to look at the car with her! Was running great til about 2 weeks later when we went to get it inspected. She spent all her money and now it's showing a p0840 (fluid press sensor /switch a) p0746 (pc solenoid A) . 08 sentra. Sometimes will drive fine other times erratic shifts loss of power etc. I know it's not my fault but I feel very guilty since I test drove it. Will changing the valve body help or should I just give up and try to help her get another car?
@@a1aexpressautoshipping389 I understand the situation you are in. Without being able to diagnose it myself and based on a good description from you I believe that changing the valve body should fix it. It is a known issue on these cars and the symptoms sound like it is going into limp mode from the bad solenoids. Make sure to check the wiring harness going to the transmission first for any damage or corrosion.
@@YourCarGuyDR you are amazing, that gave me the motivation to move forward and attempt this fix!! I will keep you updated parts should be arriving Sunday! Is there anyway I can pay you for your time to give me some more advice on this matter over the phone or email?
I just wanted to say thank you for saving me $3000. This is the single most helpful video I have found on this topic. Nissan quoted me $3000 to replaced the transmission and the techs said that the valve body couldn’t be replaced. I bought a valve body at a junk yard for $50 and now my car is fixed! If I could I would buy you a beer man 👍🏻👍🏻 I would also add one thing, while removing the bolts on the valve body number them with a sharpie so you know which bolts go where. Saved me a lot of headache
iam_andy I had codes P1778 which was for the stepper motor but I replaced the entire valve body since I had to remove it anyways to replace the stepper motor
When i removed my valve body to replace my stepper motor 2 small filters and some metal balls fell out not sure where theu go now so now i want to get another valve body
@Don Williams Talking about the solenoids you bought from china; did it include all solenoids assembly without that metal component of the valve body? Prior to getting this solenoids which trouble codes were you having ? Trying to nail down my problem.
Hi Sir I have followed the same steps in the video with my 2018 nissan sentra and even get the new valve body from the place you recommended (Sunbeltvalvebody) now the car won't be shifting and I get more codes. Can you please help me with that case? Thank you
I have a 2009 Altima and the battery died I got a boost off and after that the car would go up to 3rd gear and I’ll only b going 50 miles an hour. after driving it for so long it lose speed n I’ll have to shut it off, let it cool off and go again the codes came up p0776 p0774. What could this be? I change speed sensor and checked the fuse. The key logo has also popped up on the dash.
Marquisha Johnson the key logo usually means a low battery in the key fob or an issue with the security system. The other codes could be just an issue with the low battery or low voltage. I would have them cleared and drive it to see if they come back.
I replaced my stepper motor because I was getting p1778 code followed your steps for taking out the valve body but when I pulled out the Allen wrench I heard a "tink" noise was that the arm setting in place or did I miss the pin completely? And if I missed it what can I do to not miss it again?
kwu559 it’s nearly impossible to tell if it is in without driving it. The spring that is in the center of that pivot arm should keep it tight against your Allen wrench and as long as that was in place you should be good.
Yes. These are adaptive transmissions which means your computer takes into account your driving habits, fluid temperature, pressures, and everything going on inside your transmission and uses that info to dial in your shifting. When replacing any solenoids, sensors, valve bodies, rebuilds, ANYTHING in the transmission, you need to relearn the TCM so it can adjust for the new parts.
Sure maybe a temp sensor won’t be a big deal but relearning it won’t cause issues. You can burn out a transmission very quickly without the relearn process.
What is the name of the "rod" at 7:25?? I need to order a new one because the old one is scratched and not moving with the spring - it's sticking! Thanks
I don't know what the first transmission codes were we had it put on the machine at the dealership after we put this one in and these codes came up the car drives but the rpm gauge goes up between 4-5 and after it gets warm it looses power and won't go any faster than about 30 mph with your foot on the way to the floor
Another question for everyone here. In researching for my 06' Maxima; I found that there were 3 different models by a "serial/part #)?? I think they were Marked T1, T5 & T7. I first saw it on Rock Auto for like $900; then i saw same thing on ebay for $133-250(But you can't trust anything on ebay anymore, & some feedback said stuff was bad" and pretty much saw same thing on Amazon for
Thank you for posting this video it’s great information. I have a question. I have a 2008 Nissan Sentra 2.0 cut transmission. While driving on the freeway it lost power it went from 60 mph to 40 mph, I made home but I notice that the vehicle wasn’t moving forward only backward, I put a scanner and read code P1777 and code P0845, I changed the stepper motor and after I changed the car now move for forward but not backward and here and then while driving it makes some sort of pull abd feel like it want to get stuck, so what do think my mechanic did wrong when he changed the stepper motor? I scanned again abd keep reading the same codes. Help please. Thank you
I have an 08 Rogue with code P0845 and drives likes it’s in limp mode. Check engine light is on. We put a rebuilt valve body in it. The check engine light went off and it went back to driving with full power, for about 150 miles. Then check engine light came back on and it was throwing a code that the torque converter was not locking up. Put another valve body in it. Check engine light back on, driving in limp mode and it’s throwing the P0845 code again. Did we get 2 bad valve bodies in a row? The local transmission shops here aren’t helpful. They don’t told me it’s a junk transmission and they don’t work on them.
I replaced the valve body inside the 2010 Sentra and the transmission speed sensor at the front of the engine. Do I need to have it reprogrammed to the tcm on that year model? Or should it move because it still will not move.
Great Video! I am changing the valve body on a 2013 Maxima and it doesn't have the keyhole for hex. I installed it back up making sure to line it back up with the ratio control lever but now the car won't move. It shifts through the gears fine but will not move at all? Would that mean that piece on the ratio valve is not aligned properly? Any help would be great.
Hi just seeing your comment, I was wondering if you figured it out with your 2013 maxima as I'm having transmission issues with the same model right now. Scared to replace the valve body and it needing to be programmed like some are saying.
@@annw84 The ratio control valve was not lined up properly. It's hard to keep it lined up and keeping the module from dropping. You definitely need 2 people.
@@malcolmtaite ok thanks for letting me know, I'm really trying to keep from having to go to dealership and them trying to say replace the whole transmission. I'm so bummed that we have do deal with these trans issues at all, it sucks!
@@YourCarGuyDR So you mean you can just get any one from the wreck yard but the one with latest update; how do you even know its has a latest update on it ?
Nana Osei I would not recommend getting one from the wrecking yard. I would go with a good remanufactured one from a reputable builder like Sunbelt Valve Bodies.
Nana Osei this code can be caused by a wiring issue, however Nissan has identified that they have solenoids that are failing and thus issued the TSB (technical service bulletin) to replace the valve body with one that has been update. The update could mean that they have changed the design of a solenoid to improve function or reliability or it could even be that the solenoids are made by a different manufacturer with better quality controls.
My valve body came with a side sensor. can i just plug the harness onto it or I must used the old one from bad valve body? Am concerned new sensor may require programming. Thanks
@@YourCarGuyDR my service light came on i had a test done at auto zone it came back as the transmission speed sensor got it put on but the light is still on now they’re saying it’s the fluid pressure sensor which have something dealing with the CVT and gonna charge me $800 to fix it cause they have to go inside the transmission. i’m so lost i have no one to help me it’s so stressful
@@drekoo2071 the pressure sensor is inside on the valve body. The valve body has to be removed to change the sensor. You can watch the video and see how this is done.
Great video I just ordered my valve body for my Nissan quest Did you have to program the new valve body? I’ve been told to install new valve body but reuse old wiring harness
On the valve body can you point to me which one is the line pressure solenoid please.. I have my valve body out but don't know which one I'm taking out. They all look like same
Thank you so much! After changing the valve body do I need to drive the car for awhile to erase the code? Or do I need a OBD II Code Reader to erase the code? Thanks again!
Not same vehicle, but same maker of transmission for my mini SUV. My cvt makes a whine noise and overheats on long trips and doesn't shift gears as fast as it used to. 165k miles on it. I'm wondering if the fluid and or pump is bad or replacing the vavle body and filter may solve some of my issues. Any thoughts or advice troubleshooting wise? Thanks for the video!
Is the transmission pressure fluid sensor A&B circuit located inside the valve body are Nissan has the same code for the B circuit and had one for A circuit as well
I have 2008 Nissan Altima 2.5 s cvt transmission it when in to limpmode or safe mode now it runs in high RPM and feel like it doesn't have power I change out two sensors but still doesn't drive t well and when at stop light it takes awhile to get up to speed
@@YourCarGuyDR it doesn't have power when I push on the gas pedal barely got it back home it would get about 10 mph before it would stay in 1st gear at 4500 to 5000 RPM got the codes says B circuit and the last time it said A&B circuit
No Love a couple of things could be going on. You may need a complete valve body. Also if when you took it out the range lever didn’t get into the right place (the part where you use the Allen wrench to hold it in place) it can cause this.
Do you know if i replace my transmission if i need the dealership to reprogram it? I have this same code remaining after i replaced the valve body with your video.
So today I my new step motor came in I did every step even with the Allen wrench this was my 4th time doing this and now the car won’t even shift gears anymore , everything is plugged up and screws are in and everything I need some help bd what do you think I should do now ?
@@YourCarGuyDR one last question so I don’t know if it’s the valve body this is the same valve body I used before the process I just switched step motors in the valve u think the valve could of went bad while I was changing the step motor ? Because I didn’t have problems shifting gears until I switched step motors
@@_papa._popa._71 if the issue didn’t happen until switching the stepper motor I would walk back through and make sure that every step is correct. Make sure the spring under the plunger for the arm that connects to the stepper motor didn’t fall out. Basically make sure everything is correct.
@@YourCarGuyDR yeah I payed attention took the screws out made sure the spring was in the thing and made sure the the new step motors was in good one arm facing up on down inside the step motor with the Allen wrench in keeping it from popping back up then putting it back in all the electrical cords where in put the bolts back in and the oil filter and the thing with the 14mm bolt on it in but all bolts in gasket and oil pan back at the bottom and boom after doing all this it wouldn’t change gears I see a lot of ppl say they had this problem after changing step motors idk what I could have missed but I watched the video numerous of time even watched it as I did and spend 4 days doing this I did it 10 hrs one day then when it whimsy shift I got back out there for 7 hrs then after that I tired again it took 5 hrs then I assumed maybe I recieved a bad step motor tries it again and no luck 😭 it was shifting gears before I switched step motors maybe I need another transmission??
@@_papa._popa._71 it is possible that the pump in the transmission had failed and that may have been the original issue. It could have been producing just enough pressure. Then after draining the fluid it wasn’t able to pull it up to provide pressure.
@YourCarGuyDR great video, a few questions, are there torque specs for the valve body bolts and pan bolts, also will changing the valve body resolve a p1778 code for stepper motor, or should i just change the stepper motor by itself?
@@YourCarGuyDR hey I have a question, the black sensor thing you are talking about, is that the brain that is connected to the certain vehicle? After you put the new valve body in, did it work automatically, like plug and play or did you have to take it to the dealership to have it reprogrammed or anything? Thanks for the response and help
@@YourCarGuyDR @YourCarGuyDR hey I have a question, the black sensor thing you are talking about, is that the brain that is connected to the certain vehicle? After you put the new valve body in, did it work automatically, like plug and play or did you have to take it to the dealership to have it reprogrammed or anything? Thanks for the response and help
Do I have to reprogram the transmission afterwards or is it just “plug and play” because I reaplaced and the code clears then comes back(p1778 and p1777).
besides reset of the code after install of valve body, is there anything else that needs to be don e. i have the nissan maxima 07 that needs to replace.
Hi Sir, I was wondering why does a key light cut on in my 07 Altima while driving? And I just replaced my valve body today. Smh A key light will pop on in the left corner by the rpms and when the key light cuts on the car will start jerking the speedometer will drop to 0 the rpms will go to 3000 and the car will loose gas and slowly come to a stop while driving.
Your Car Guy DR Wow, thank you for getting back to me so fast I’ll be sure to do that, before I would have to repeat the whole process. Thank you so much! I’ll be sure to let you know how everything turns out🤙🏾
Your Car Guy DR Hello again sir, just wanted to let you know I did a code reading, and I got the P1178. Which I believe that is the stepper motor, so I believe when I went to place everything in my skinny screwdriver fell out the port-hole before hand and I just didn’t notice it. So, if the weather permits hopefully I’ll be able to backtrack and follow all of the steps again… Thank you again, greatly appreciate it take good care and stay safe out there!💯%☝🏾🙏🏾🤙🏾
I know this is old, but I figured I would give it a shot. Is there any chance that transmission fluid can drip into the electrical connectors after they are taken apart and cause problems?
@@YourCarGuyDR Thank you for the quick reply. I did the repair as in the video, but now I'm having some electrical problems. As soon as I hit 35 and the gears change, the speedometer stops working and some lights come up on the dash. I'm going to redo the repair and change the fluid and filter. Any ideas of something I can look out for?
@@YourCarGuyDR Thank you for the suggestion. I replaced that and unfortunately that didn't fix the problem. I will double check the wiring and make sure that everything is securely fastened together. If that doesnt work, I figure that I have an internal problem.
@@scotttaylor4341 check the external connections and make sure they are clean. There were also some nissans that had issues with the connections in the dash cluster.
This is one of the best videos on Valve body Replacement, if not the best one! Well done!
He needs to be an honorary you tube instructor. His attention to detail. His even keel manner to which he instructs. He reminds me of Wilson from home improvement. A plethora of knowledge. Inspires a person to learn.
Taylaen you make me blush.
@@YourCarGuyDR great video, I had a question though, are there torque specs for the valve body bolts and the pan bolts, thanks for your help
@@doja-3652 yes, I have the torque specs in the video description.
Pay attention where he puts the Allen wrench, THAT IS THE KEY OF GETTING IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. And I wanna say thanks for this video it was a big help.
I just picked up a 2012 Nissan Altima 3.5 with the solenoid A code p0746 instead of buying just the solenoid I ordered a new valve body and will be replacing it in a week this video was helpful thank you so much
I had the same code and when I replaced it with a new valve body the car getting worst and gets more codes.
How did you solve it @@taroukkkkkkkkk
I can not tell you how much I appreciate this video. Thank you so much sir!
The Allen wrench tip ! Didn’t know and haven’t seen that tip before....had valve body out twice trying to figure why it wasn’t shifting...then I found your video... 3rd times a charm ,A huge THANK YOU !
2112cptmorgan glad it helped.
If I did not get this in right place would it make my car not shift only have reverse and low
The best video I've watched on this subject this issue thus far. Well explanatory on step by step move to get it done. Good job
I got a p0850 or p0845 similar codes… I replaced the valve body and it worked.
I watched more then 20 video about stepper motor this is Excellent video with specific information. You are the best...
Amen, amen and AMEN!
Thank you. I've been searching for a step by step video. I appreciate you taking your time to explain everything. I need to replace my control solenoid. Now I know what to do.
found this vid after finding a loose cylinder ring during reassembly. hoping it’s the shift rod bushing you mentioned. thanks for the detailed video!!
Replaced 8 parts on the valve body and needed help with understanding a few bolts and this video helped with that thanks
Worked on a 2012 Nissan Sentra 2.0 same valve body. This video helped a lot thank you!
Thanks for the video. I just did this job on my sisters 2007 Nissan, would not have done it if it was not for your video. Like I said before, I got the same codes and the transmission went into limp mode, Took it to a shop and they could not figure it out and sent us to a transmission shop, they too did not know what the problem was as they are new to CVT, but curiously the shop I had just come from sent me to them with a paper copy of the Nissan bulletin stating that the Valve body should be replaced with those codes and symptoms. But the Trans shop said they think it is an electrical issue not a transmission issue after keeping it overnight and said we should take it to an electrical shop. So I said FK it, Studied the service bulletin and found your video and decided to try it out. The refurbished assembly I found on ebay was like $150 and it already had all the parts, Rods/spring/sensor etc so I did not have to move anything from the old CVT assembly to the new one. Your video saved me from screwing things up primary with the info on what bolts to remove to get the unit out (I would have been pulling all kinds of bolts out and made a mess) and how to use the Allen wrench to hold the rod in position while installing. The 2 most helpful points. I also did not need to remove the electrical bracket at all.
My fluid looked like motor oil and stunk the whole garage up, it was pretty burnt (luckily it looks like no damage to the rest of the CVT).
Got that all put back in no problem. But to keep this problem from coming back in the future I also installed an external cooler (small radiator) to keep the fluid temp from going into meltdown again.
I have been driving the car around town the last couple days to see if any issues come up before taking it on the longer commute to work (leaks/error codes - check engine light/ trans acting weird etc). error codes were erased and no code has returned as of yet and the trans seems to be functioning like a new car at this point. A day of work and maybe $300 total in parts and fluid. I can not imagine what a shop would have charged me to do the same job including parts considering I also installed a new block cooler with bypass to the new external cooler.
I will start driving it to work tonight and report back in a week or two.
Thanks again for the video and the replies to some of my questions, you were a huge help.
John Norris I am so glad to hear the video was helpful.
@@YourCarGuyDR month and a half in an no issues or codes yet.
John Norris that’s awesome.
The external cooler difficult to install? How did you figure how much more trabsmission oil to add with the cooler?
@@chinogodinez Pretty easy to install. I took out the top bolts that hold the radiator to the frame so I could lay it back a bit to give me room to work. Just pick the spot on the front of your existing radiator that you think eill get the best air flow and leaves a little room to rout your hoses for it and then you just mount by putting plastic stick like zip tie kind of things through/between the fins of the cooler and radiator. Easy. you will also need to replace the existing block mounted cooler with one that has the ports to allow the fluid to flow to the external cooler. as for the fluid, I just put the recomended ammount and idled the engine for a while through all gears then just checked the fluid level and added a little at a time till id was at proper lvl, I think it only took like an extra half qt. also check it daily for a couple days as the air works its way out and to watch for any leaks from any of the connections. To be safe I doubled up hose clamps on all the connections. so far no leaks and no issues, but the car has been mostly driven in the early morning or evening, no long distance drives in the hottest part of the day to really test the system out in the conditions it failed at.
I ended up with two of these Nissans. A 14 Altima and a 18 Rogue. So far no issues. I’m going to have my fluid changed every 50k and Hope for the best.
Do it atleast every 30k
definately best one i've found thanks. Son and i doing same on 06' maxima; after 2-6 weeks of waiting for a new(supposedly) valve body off Amazon. Great directions.
Here is my experience: I purchased a 2015 Nissan Murano new in July 2015. We had transmission issues starting week 1! Hesitation and then over acceleration were addressed with multiple software tweaks but never corrected the issue. My CVT transmission failed and was replaced under warranty by Nissan in June 2019 at 52,000 miles. Today 11-29-21, at 62,100 miles, my transmission failed again due to the transmission oil/cooler/radiator assembly failing to cause the cooling fluid and the transmission fluid to mix, resulting in having to replace the Transmission, Radiator, and associated assemblies for a cost to me of approximately $6,700! Based on my research, this is a known issue with Nissan CVTs but was only partially addressed in the Class Action lawsuit because individual owners had to personally sue Nissan and their vehicle models and years were the only ones included in the extended warranty. How a judge does not include all Nissan vehicles with the CVT is beyond me especially when my dealership was replacing three a week when my 2015 Murano's CVT was replaced. All my service was completed at the dealership and we never prevent any work from being done when required. The only upside is Nissan is paying for 80% of the repair but I am still paying out of pocket on something I believe should be fully covered. If I had an Altima with the same issue it would be covered under the class action suit extended warranty coverage but the same CVT with known issues in another Nissan model is not covered!
Man thank u for the video. Very informative and really broke it down without being annoying and saying useless things.
Thanks for this video. Simple + Straight forward + I tried it out and was indeed a Solution
thank you very much. was looking everywhere for a simple video for nissan rogue and this is basically the same. U da man!
Great Video. Thanks again for helping me out. You do a great job explaining and showing everything.
P0845 is a circuit code though, not a performance code. I have fixed these by changing the wiring harness bolted to the valve body for the solenoids. The wire was broken right where it went to the solenoid connector and if you pull it slightly it will come apart because its just held there by the insulation.
Never listen to anything nissan says about CVT's. Their fix for everything is to replace the cvt.
Gr8 vid, I am one of the lucky ones, I don’t have a CVT. I have a older 2001 Nissan Maxima, 203k miles
It did have P0744 code. And shifting and driving. Badly, almost impossible to drive. Drained fluid, it came out black/brown, no metallic tint or metal shavings. About 1gal came out. I added a little over qts of ATF (valvoline max life synthetic ATF and 1 bottle of Lucus transmission fix). I also cleared the code
Drove it 70 miles and the code came back but it was driving a lot better.
Continued to drive it
300 miles later it was say 70% better, Shifting from 1->2 had some issues but all other shifts were smooth and mostly on time.
600 miles later it was even better
900 miles later it was almost back to normal.
I cleared the code , and saw it was a little over full of ATF, so I pumped out some ATF to bring to right level.
Check engine light hasn’t come back
And it’s shifting consistently now, though the 1->2 shift sometimes happens a little over 3000 rpm.
Only time will tell if this has resolved the issue.
It is what it is, it’s old (19), high mileage car(203k)
Living on lift support , runs smoothly now and shifting ok now as well.
It leaks oil from rear mail seal that is tool costly to repair. It’s now my son’s first car. Hopefully he will get some years out of it. Maybe another 30-50k miles
AT-205 and high mileage oil seem to help.
I may drain ATF again sooner to get out more of the old fluid. A drain only gets out maybe 45% of ATF .
D Fields yes the converter ends up holding a significant amount of fluid when draining.
Short and sweet definitely the best video on the subject thanks from New York. 👍🏻
BLOODY AWESOME VIDEO, you saved my butt. Thank you, I could hug you.
Just a heads up- the 'sensor" that looks like a black box on the side of the valve body is the slave ROM. It communicates with the TCM (transmission computer) to provide info about the valve body, etc. USUALLY a reman valve body will come with its own ROM. Didn't know anybody sold them reman'd without their own rom.
If you put this car back together and you have weird error codes & weird performance (ESPECIALLY P17F), it's possibly related to this rom. One option is to force the TCM to relearn. Can be done w/ a consult-II/consult-III or some other scanners. Old valve bodies, maybe not as crucial, but on later models (post 2012?), it can be a big deal.
perfect! you are perfect! nobody on you tube has the quality of how to explain things! two thumbs way up for you my friend!!🏎🏎🏎🏎🏎🏎
Thanks your car guy
Managed to swap the solenoids with salvage one's but didn't work, code still on
hoping to get a new ones instead of wreck yard and try to see.
With Nissan sentra 2008, you have to unbolt every bolt on the valve body to drop it, just note it if you are trying on this car.
I'm about to start this nightmare I'll let you know how it goes thank you for the
Video was fantastic! Great details on how to do it.
So sisters 2007 started acting up coming home from a couple hundred mile trip. Loud whine, speedometer stopped working and car was running in a lower gear and would not upshift. Took to a basic repair shop and they gave us a print out of that bulletin after doing basic diagnostics, told us codes were transmission related, We do have 2 of the codes listed. 840 and 845. They recommended a local transmission shop. We drove it to that shop (the car now running normally, weird) I have had it on short trips in town and it runs fine, but have not had it on the hwy, I thought it might be a PCM issue. The trans shop kept it for a day and told us they do not think it is the transmission but rather an electrical issue and recommended taking it to an electrical shop. What? They did admit they are new to CVT and do not quite understand them yet. But if the first shop found the bulletin saying if you have those codes then a valve body replacement is needed, why would a transmission shop ignore that and think it is not the valve body and think it is electrical issue? Do you think the shop is wrong? I did not notice the bulletin in our paperwork till after going back through it after watching your video. I offered the paperwork at the time to the trans shop but they did not seem to want it, just wrote down the codes. I plan on heading back over to the transmission shop later this week and ask them why they believe the issue is electrical and not a valve body issue. But just curious what you think. I will be looking for a different trans shop or maybe even the dealer. I am not really set up to do it myself being at an apartment complex. Also, is it common for the transmission to act up and then act normal with valve body issues?
John Norris the car in this video started having the same symptoms that you described and did it intermittently for several months before it was brought to me for repair. Many people will look at the codes and assume that it is a wiring issue which is partially true as the wiring and sensors that are part of the valve body are what is causing the issue. When your car sets the codes the transmission goes into limp mode. This is when it feels like it is running in a lower gear. Many times after you shut it off and restart it the codes will clear and it will drive normally. If the codes are cleared it will drive normally until it sets the code again. Many transmission shops only focus on mechanical failures and don’t do anything with the electrical part of the transmission.
At 8:30 inserting the Allen to lock in the shifter rod, I've followed another video that has has it coming in from a bolt hole closer to the valve. This has not worked me, I'm going to try your process and lock in form the pre-drilled factory hole
J V it should work well for you.
@@YourCarGuyDR Thanks for the verification, I'm gonna take it apart (for the 4th time now) crossing my fingers this time
J V hopefully this is the last time you have to take it apart.
@@YourCarGuyDR Your instructions were right on! I hate when other people put out misinformation. Thanks again
J V how were you able to know you missed I’m putting mine back on also I put 2 new stepper motors into it but still throws the p1774 and I have a feeling maybe I’m missing where that piece connects
Thanks for the good straight forward advice. I own a mechanic shop and this is a lot simpler than I thought it might me. You gave me the courage to NOT send this out to my rebuilder.
Ara Shahbandeh glad to hear it.
@@YourCarGuyDR I am desperate hoping you can help me. Just helped my friend but a new car she's a single mother and asked me to go to look at the car with her! Was running great til about 2 weeks later when we went to get it inspected. She spent all her money and now it's showing a p0840 (fluid press sensor /switch a) p0746 (pc solenoid A) . 08 sentra. Sometimes will drive fine other times erratic shifts loss of power etc. I know it's not my fault but I feel very guilty since I test drove it. Will changing the valve body help or should I just give up and try to help her get another car?
@@a1aexpressautoshipping389 I understand the situation you are in. Without being able to diagnose it myself and based on a good description from you I believe that changing the valve body should fix it. It is a known issue on these cars and the symptoms sound like it is going into limp mode from the bad solenoids. Make sure to check the wiring harness going to the transmission first for any damage or corrosion.
@@YourCarGuyDR you are amazing, that gave me the motivation to move forward and attempt this fix!! I will keep you updated parts should be arriving Sunday! Is there anyway I can pay you for your time to give me some more advice on this matter over the phone or email?
@@a1aexpressautoshipping389 just reach out if you need more advice.
I just wanted to say thank you for saving me $3000. This is the single most helpful video I have found on this topic. Nissan quoted me $3000 to replaced the transmission and the techs said that the valve body couldn’t be replaced. I bought a valve body at a junk yard for $50 and now my car is fixed! If I could I would buy you a beer man 👍🏻👍🏻 I would also add one thing, while removing the bolts on the valve body number them with a sharpie so you know which bolts go where. Saved me a lot of headache
What codes was your car throwing when this happened, if you don’t mind me asking.
iam_andy I had codes P1778 which was for the stepper motor but I replaced the entire valve body since I had to remove it anyways to replace the stepper motor
iam_andy I also have a video on my channel showing the symptoms I was having
My car was throwing a P1778 as well. Nissan quoted me $3800 to change the whole transmission. I'll change out my valve body and hope that works!
D Hill did it work?
Great video, easy to understand and follow. Well done!!! You should be on motor trend!🥇
When i removed my valve body to replace my stepper motor 2 small filters and some metal balls fell out not sure where theu go now so now i want to get another valve body
that is a check ball
@Don Williams Still acting up that way or you fixed em?
@Don Williams Talking about the solenoids you bought from china; did it include all solenoids assembly without that metal component of the valve body? Prior to getting this solenoids which trouble codes were you having ?
Trying to nail down my problem.
Love the video. This really help me out. Now all I gotta do is get my money together and fixed my late wife's car 💪🤦♂️😪🤗
Thank you very much for your guidance and excellent instructions
Great job on the video, your voice is perfect for this
Allan wrench reinstall OMG life saver, much love
Subbed as well because unlike some UA-cam mechanics you actually do the work.
Travis Vaughan thank you
Your Car Guy DR I don’t have to reprogram anything when I replace the valve body do i
Travis Vaughan correct it does not need to be reprogrammed.
Your Car Guy DR ty for the info and video my toy car is a Lexus IS300 2jzge hope you make some vids on that car
Thank you so much for this video. Very clear and easy to understand. Great job, thank you
Fantastic video and personality! Need to get you some ramps instead of stands though. Excellent video, you obviously know what your doing!
Thank you I love you for making this video having problems with my versa
VERY thorough, and easy to understand. A+
Thanks for the video you help me so much and save me lots of money thanks again
Hi Sir
I have followed the same steps in the video with my 2018 nissan sentra and even get the new valve body from the place you recommended (Sunbeltvalvebody) now the car won't be shifting and I get more codes. Can you please help me with that case?
Thank you
Make sure that the range lever is in place. It can easily slip out when you are installing the valve body.
@@YourCarGuyDR I'm a DIY, not a professional mechanic so can you help me show where precisely in my Valve body(JF015E)?Thank You
I watched the video again and my Valve Body is way different from the one in the video.
Mine is JF015E for 2018 Nissan Sentra SV
Great informative video. Thank you for your time and energy.
I have a 2009 Altima and the battery died I got a boost off and after that the car would go up to 3rd gear and I’ll only b going 50 miles an hour. after driving it for so long it lose speed n I’ll have to shut it off, let it cool off and go again the codes came up p0776 p0774. What could this be? I change speed sensor and checked the fuse. The key logo has also popped up on the dash.
Marquisha Johnson the key logo usually means a low battery in the key fob or an issue with the security system. The other codes could be just an issue with the low battery or low voltage. I would have them cleared and drive it to see if they come back.
I got a p0744 on my nissan juke and im going to be doing this to see if itbqill get rid of the code
Did it work ?
I replaced my stepper motor because I was getting p1778 code followed your steps for taking out the valve body but when I pulled out the Allen wrench I heard a "tink" noise was that the arm setting in place or did I miss the pin completely? And if I missed it what can I do to not miss it again?
kwu559 it’s nearly impossible to tell if it is in without driving it. The spring that is in the center of that pivot arm should keep it tight against your Allen wrench and as long as that was in place you should be good.
How did it go with this issue? You solved it? If yes how
Great Video! Is there any reprogramming involved in replacing the valve body?
CEONTHEMAKING no programming is required.
@@YourCarGuyDR Thank you!
Is programming necessary for replacing a stepper motor on a Nissan Altima 2012
Yes. These are adaptive transmissions which means your computer takes into account your driving habits, fluid temperature, pressures, and everything going on inside your transmission and uses that info to dial in your shifting. When replacing any solenoids, sensors, valve bodies, rebuilds, ANYTHING in the transmission, you need to relearn the TCM so it can adjust for the new parts.
Sure maybe a temp sensor won’t be a big deal but relearning it won’t cause issues. You can burn out a transmission very quickly without the relearn process.
What is the name of the "rod" at 7:25?? I need to order a new one because the old one is scratched and not moving with the spring - it's sticking! Thanks
That rod is for range control. Not sure the exact name but using range control you should be able to find it.
I need a short video on replacing step motor for a. 2006 Nissan Maxima sll
I don't know what the first transmission codes were we had it put on the machine at the dealership after we put this one in and these codes came up the car drives but the rpm gauge goes up between 4-5 and after it gets warm it looses power and won't go any faster than about 30 mph with your foot on the way to the floor
Tracy Curry that definitely sounds like you need the valve body. Those were the same symptoms as the car in the video.
Ok thank you very much for that info
Will i need to get it programmed or just unhook the battery
Tracy Curry unhook the battery and it will be fine.
Ok one more question after its done and we hooked the battery back up how long do we need to let it set before driving
Another question for everyone here. In researching for my 06' Maxima; I found that there were 3 different models by a "serial/part #)?? I think they were Marked T1, T5 & T7.
I first saw it on Rock Auto for like $900; then i saw same thing on ebay for $133-250(But you can't trust anything on ebay anymore, & some feedback said stuff was bad" and pretty much saw same thing on Amazon for
Michael Smith you can also check with Sunbelt valve bodies out of Florida. They do a great job and have a great price.
@@YourCarGuyDR OK i'll check them out. I already bought the T7 from Amazon. Thought it would be quick but its the 2-6 week deal. Still check though.
If the switch in does not connect to the transmission will it not shift gears
Before tearing apart your trans change the fluid first, if problem still exists recycle the new fluid after you fix the problem.
Thank you for posting this video it’s great information. I have a question. I have a 2008 Nissan Sentra 2.0 cut transmission. While driving on the freeway it lost power it went from 60 mph to 40 mph, I made home but I notice that the vehicle wasn’t moving forward only backward, I put a scanner and read code P1777 and code P0845, I changed the stepper motor and after I changed the car now move for forward but not backward and here and then while driving it makes some sort of pull abd feel like it want to get stuck, so what do think my mechanic did wrong when he changed the stepper motor? I scanned again abd keep reading the same codes. Help please. Thank you
Just ordered valve body got it today about to change just wondering if I need to program anything if I’m only changing the valve body
Why did you get the same code?
Thank you so much I try to insert the stepper motor arm and missed 4 time thank you
You have a subscriber for life!
Bro thank you so much god bless you , you save me a lot money with you’re tutorial
I just got the body valve and about to start fixing my Sentra 14 , how to I reprogram after plugging in the electrical?
No reprogramming is necessary.
Great video, but you skipped the most important part. How do do place the shift rod back into place
I have an 08 Rogue with code P0845 and drives likes it’s in limp mode. Check engine light is on. We put a rebuilt valve body in it. The check engine light went off and it went back to driving with full power, for about 150 miles. Then check engine light came back on and it was throwing a code that the torque converter was not locking up. Put another valve body in it. Check engine light back on, driving in limp mode and it’s throwing the P0845 code again.
Did we get 2 bad valve bodies in a row?
The local transmission shops here aren’t helpful. They don’t told me it’s a junk transmission and they don’t work on them.
How was the first one rebuilt?
Software or mechanical
I replaced the valve body inside the 2010 Sentra and the transmission speed sensor at the front of the engine. Do I need to have it reprogrammed to the tcm on that year model? Or should it move because it still will not move.
Great Video! I am changing the valve body on a 2013 Maxima and it doesn't have the keyhole for hex. I installed it back up making sure to line it back up with the ratio control lever but now the car won't move. It shifts through the gears fine but will not move at all? Would that mean that piece on the ratio valve is not aligned properly? Any help would be great.
Most likely it is not aligned.
Hi just seeing your comment, I was wondering if you figured it out with your 2013 maxima as I'm having transmission issues with the same model right now. Scared to replace the valve body and it needing to be programmed like some are saying.
@@annw84 The ratio control valve was not lined up properly. It's hard to keep it lined up and keeping the module from dropping. You definitely need 2 people.
@@malcolmtaite ok thanks for letting me know, I'm really trying to keep from having to go to dealership and them trying to say replace the whole transmission. I'm so bummed that we have do deal with these trans issues at all, it sucks!
I have a 08 altima with P0746. I plan on replacing the valve body instead of worrying about which solenoid is solenoid A. Smart move?
Kito Ranks yes. You will get all of the solenoids. Just make sure you get one that has the latest updates.
@@YourCarGuyDR So you mean you can just get any one from the wreck yard but the one with latest update; how do you even know its has a latest update on it ?
Nana Osei I would not recommend getting one from the wrecking yard. I would go with a good remanufactured one from a reputable builder like Sunbelt Valve Bodies.
@@YourCarGuyDR When this trouble code or fault occur, does this mean the solenoid are bad or they just need an update for them to function properly?
Nana Osei this code can be caused by a wiring issue, however Nissan has identified that they have solenoids that are failing and thus issued the TSB (technical service bulletin) to replace the valve body with one that has been update. The update could mean that they have changed the design of a solenoid to improve function or reliability or it could even be that the solenoids are made by a different manufacturer with better quality controls.
My valve body came with a side sensor. can i just plug the harness onto it or I must used the old one from bad valve body? Am concerned new sensor may require programming.
Thanks
You can just plug in the new sensor. No programming required.
i replaced my valve body in my 2010 rogue and its still not shifting out of first reverse works great but just wont shift
Are these the same symptoms that you had before replacing the valve body?
When reinstalling the shift lever 11:27...is it suppose to connect to the piece and be loose or tight? I figure loose so the car can change gears.
The nut holding the shift lever arm on should be tight.
@@YourCarGuyDR Thank you. 😁
that amazing how electrical wire inside oil pan
Use Nissan fluid only. Flush it at Valvoline every 60-80,000 miles. Bring your Nissan original fluid! My one has 300,000 miles and still works.
when changing a transmission fluid pressure sensor switch B do you have to remove the whole transmission out?
No, the sensor should be on the valve body.
@@YourCarGuyDR my service light came on i had a test done at auto zone it came back as the transmission speed sensor got it put on but the light is still on now they’re saying it’s the fluid pressure sensor which have something dealing with the CVT and gonna charge me $800 to fix it cause they have to go inside the transmission. i’m so lost i have no one to help me it’s so stressful
@@drekoo2071 the pressure sensor is inside on the valve body. The valve body has to be removed to change the sensor. You can watch the video and see how this is done.
@@YourCarGuyDR ok, what’s the difference between the value body & cvt transmission
@@drekoo2071 the CVT transmission is the complete transmission assembly. The valve body is a part inside the transmission.
Great video I just ordered my valve body for my Nissan quest Did you have to program the new valve body? I’ve been told to install new valve body but reuse old wiring harness
No programming was required.
Would you know if the 2008 Sentra has the same Valve body?
Is the spring connected to the stepper motor supposed to be stiff? Mine wasn't and the p1778 code returned.
On the valve body can you point to me which one is the line pressure solenoid please.. I have my valve body out but don't know which one I'm taking out. They all look like same
Whats the torque on the bolts?
What happened to the Allen wrench that you used to hold that rod?
You pull it out once the valve body is bolted in place. Make sure you install it from the underside.
Thank you so much! After changing the valve body do I need to drive the car for awhile to erase the code? Or do I need a OBD II Code Reader to erase the code? Thanks again!
You need to clear the code to get the transmission out of limp mode. This can be done by disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes.
@@YourCarGuyDR Thank you very much!
Is this a JF011E VALVE BODY my jeep patriot one looks similar but I could be wrong
Very good video and very helpful thank you
Not same vehicle, but same maker of transmission for my mini SUV. My cvt makes a whine noise and overheats on long trips and doesn't shift gears as fast as it used to. 165k miles on it.
I'm wondering if the fluid and or pump is bad or replacing the vavle body and filter may solve some of my issues. Any thoughts or advice troubleshooting wise? Thanks for the video!
Andrew McRobb I would start with a fluid and filter change. See what that does before changing anything else.
@@YourCarGuyDR Thanks! I'll give it a shot, and check back at some point. Looking forward for more videos!
Is the transmission pressure fluid sensor A&B circuit located inside the valve body are Nissan has the same code for the B circuit and had one for A circuit as well
No Love when you buy the valve body you do get the sensors and solenoids with it. They can be replaced separately as well.
I have 2008 Nissan Altima 2.5 s cvt transmission it when in to limpmode or safe mode now it runs in high RPM and feel like it doesn't have power I change out two sensors but still doesn't drive t well and when at stop light it takes awhile to get up to speed
No Love when you are doing 60mph what rpm is your motor at?
@@YourCarGuyDR it doesn't have power when I push on the gas pedal barely got it back home it would get about 10 mph before it would stay in 1st gear at 4500 to 5000 RPM got the codes says B circuit and the last time it said A&B circuit
No Love a couple of things could be going on. You may need a complete valve body. Also if when you took it out the range lever didn’t get into the right place (the part where you use the Allen wrench to hold it in place) it can cause this.
Do you know if i replace my transmission if i need the dealership to reprogram it? I have this same code remaining after i replaced the valve body with your video.
Thank you for this video. I did the job as you did but I have a question. Did you have to reprogram the transmission to accept the valve body?
No, you do not need to reprogram the transmission.
@@YourCarGuyDR thank you. I'm getting so many different answers. my issue wasn't corrected so I think ill have to replace the transmission.
@@YourCarGuyDR what year was yours?
If you use a new rom from a new valve body, do you have to reprogram it? I seen you used the old one. @@YourCarGuyDR
So today I my new step motor came in I did every step even with the Allen wrench this was my 4th time doing this and now the car won’t even shift gears anymore , everything is plugged up and screws are in and everything I need some help bd what do you think I should do now ?
Testing the fluid pressure would be the next step. It is possible that there is something wrong with the new valve body.
@@YourCarGuyDR one last question so I don’t know if it’s the valve body this is the same valve body I used before the process I just switched step motors in the valve u think the valve could of went bad while I was changing the step motor ? Because I didn’t have problems shifting gears until I switched step motors
@@_papa._popa._71 if the issue didn’t happen until switching the stepper motor I would walk back through and make sure that every step is correct. Make sure the spring under the plunger for the arm that connects to the stepper motor didn’t fall out. Basically make sure everything is correct.
@@YourCarGuyDR yeah I payed attention took the screws out made sure the spring was in the thing and made sure the the new step motors was in good one arm facing up on down inside the step motor with the Allen wrench in keeping it from popping back up then putting it back in all the electrical cords where in put the bolts back in and the oil filter and the thing with the 14mm bolt on it in but all bolts in gasket and oil pan back at the bottom and boom after doing all this it wouldn’t change gears I see a lot of ppl say they had this problem after changing step motors idk what I could have missed but I watched the video numerous of time even watched it as I did and spend 4 days doing this I did it 10 hrs one day then when it whimsy shift I got back out there for 7 hrs then after that I tired again it took 5 hrs then I assumed maybe I recieved a bad step motor tries it again and no luck 😭 it was shifting gears before I switched step motors maybe I need another transmission??
@@_papa._popa._71 it is possible that the pump in the transmission had failed and that may have been the original issue. It could have been producing just enough pressure. Then after draining the fluid it wasn’t able to pull it up to provide pressure.
@YourCarGuyDR great video, a few questions, are there torque specs for the valve body bolts and pan bolts, also will changing the valve body resolve a p1778 code for stepper motor, or should i just change the stepper motor by itself?
If the stepper motor is your only code then you can just replace the stepper motor.
@@YourCarGuyDR hey I have a question, the black sensor thing you are talking about, is that the brain that is connected to the certain vehicle? After you put the new valve body in, did it work automatically, like plug and play or did you have to take it to the dealership to have it reprogrammed or anything? Thanks for the response and help
@@YourCarGuyDR @YourCarGuyDR hey I have a question, the black sensor thing you are talking about, is that the brain that is connected to the certain vehicle? After you put the new valve body in, did it work automatically, like plug and play or did you have to take it to the dealership to have it reprogrammed or anything? Thanks for the response and help
@@doja-3652 no programming was required.
Nice video! Curious, did you have to relearn the tcm/trans or relearn the gear ratio?
No relearn was required.
Do I have to reprogram the transmission afterwards or is it just “plug and play” because I reaplaced and the code clears then comes back(p1778 and p1777).
So newer models like a 2012 you have to reprogram it at the dealership?
besides reset of the code after install of valve body, is there anything else that needs to be don e. i have the nissan maxima 07 that needs to replace.
That’s it. Just reset the code and add the new fluid.
Hi Sir, I was wondering why does a key light cut on in my 07 Altima while driving? And I just replaced my valve body today. Smh
A key light will pop on in the left corner by the rpms and when the key light cuts on the car will start jerking the speedometer will drop to 0 the rpms will go to 3000 and the car will loose gas and slowly come to a stop while driving.
Ase Mosley many times it means that the car is not receiving the signal from the key. Sometimes changing the battery in your key may help.
Your Car Guy DR Wow, thank you for getting back to me so fast I’ll be sure to do that, before I would have to repeat the whole process. Thank you so much! I’ll be sure to let you know how everything turns out🤙🏾
Your Car Guy DR Hello again sir, just wanted to let you know I did a code reading, and I got the P1178. Which I believe that is the stepper motor, so I believe when I went to place everything in my skinny screwdriver fell out the port-hole before hand and I just didn’t notice it. So, if the weather permits hopefully I’ll be able to backtrack and follow all of the steps again… Thank you again, greatly appreciate it take good care and stay safe out there!💯%☝🏾🙏🏾🤙🏾
Ase Mosley yep if the stepper lever isn’t in place you will have plenty of issues.
Your Car Guy DR Welp, I got rained out today, but tomorrow should be outstanding and I’ll give it a shot🤙🏾
Hello sir I really appreciate this video one question is this valve body same as a 2010 Nissan Altima?? Let me know asap please and Thankyou.🙏🏿
I need a diagram that shows how to replace all 8 transmission solenoid s in limbo these are for a2006 Nissan maxima 3.5sl
So you can actually change the solenoids cause that’s the problem I have on my 3.5 coupe..
For 2008
Yes you can.
I know this is old, but I figured I would give it a shot. Is there any chance that transmission fluid can drip into the electrical connectors after they are taken apart and cause problems?
Not really on the internal connections.
@@YourCarGuyDR Thank you for the quick reply. I did the repair as in the video, but now I'm having some electrical problems. As soon as I hit 35 and the gears change, the speedometer stops working and some lights come up on the dash. I'm going to redo the repair and change the fluid and filter. Any ideas of something I can look out for?
@@scotttaylor4341 check the speed sensor in the transmission.
@@YourCarGuyDR Thank you for the suggestion. I replaced that and unfortunately that didn't fix the problem. I will double check the wiring and make sure that everything is securely fastened together. If that doesnt work, I figure that I have an internal problem.
@@scotttaylor4341 check the external connections and make sure they are clean. There were also some nissans that had issues with the connections in the dash cluster.
Does the valve body need to be program to car
No it does not.