Wow 9:00 that is really awesome i was trying to think of good ways to strap down armor thats very inclosing. There was no good way to reach the straps ends easily before.
Hi mate, just stumbled across your channel and have already found it to be one of the few solid-gold channels for armouring tips and techniques! Apologies if this is a stupid question, but do you have any advice on replacing straps on brigandines? I need to replace the straps on mine, and am paranoid that the distinctive layered-fabric nature of brig construction may cause some unforseen hurdles I haven't considered, as so far I've only done riveting on belts and plate vambraces and pauldrons, heh. Keep up the awesome content! :D Cheers - Conrad
Conrad, if there's material on the river, or leather you want to preserve, when you remove the rivet by grinding or the such, go slowly with light taps, that way the temperature won't wreck the organic layers. Then when you're replacing the rivet try and find something that holds the rivet but doesn't touch the nice material front, then tap away. If you're really nervous about it,make a small test piece of all the layers and try and see how best to put in the new rivets without marking the front. It takes time, but it can be time well spent. Hope that helps.
Sometime in the future I hope to, need to finish the how to build an arm harness video first (rerebraces next, then I'll have some more time to think of what to do next .. it's on the list though :)
In theory it helps protect the slightly more vulnerable strap end if it's riveted to the outside of the armour. Additionally it offers slightly less of a catch for weapons. You see it a lot in 14th century armour, but it gradually looses its popularity making occasional come backs from time to time.
does the nail have to be a special sort of metal?. I got similar nails like this but made out of steel (I think) and they can't be hammered down like you do here. The nails you use here looks like aluminium?.
Kevin, the nails are made of steel. I used to struggle but a nice heavy object underneath (the anvil) and a reasonably smooth ball peen hammer helps. I find pointed ball peens make it hard wrk. I hope that helps.
Nail quality can be a bit of a lottery. If the shank is too long they can tend to lean over and sometime crack, but if its the shank itself cracking, after you've cut them to the length you want try filing the top flat again (it will likely be a bit pointed from being snipped) this might help a bit. Then hit the rivet square on to spread it a bit then clip around the circumference to get it to bit ... might help. Good luck amigo.
thank you for teaching me all i know about making armor.
Great advice.thanks🇬🇧⚔️
Wow 9:00 that is really awesome i was trying to think of good ways to strap down armor thats very inclosing. There was no good way to reach the straps ends easily before.
Glad it helps. It's a relatively common 14th century practice, at least from what I've seen so far.
Hi mate, just stumbled across your channel and have already found it to be one of the few solid-gold channels for armouring tips and techniques!
Apologies if this is a stupid question, but do you have any advice on replacing straps on brigandines? I need to replace the straps on mine, and am paranoid that the distinctive layered-fabric nature of brig construction may cause some unforseen hurdles I haven't considered, as so far I've only done riveting on belts and plate vambraces and pauldrons, heh.
Keep up the awesome content! :D
Cheers - Conrad
Conrad, if there's material on the river, or leather you want to preserve, when you remove the rivet by grinding or the such, go slowly with light taps, that way the temperature won't wreck the organic layers. Then when you're replacing the rivet try and find something that holds the rivet but doesn't touch the nice material front, then tap away.
If you're really nervous about it,make a small test piece of all the layers and try and see how best to put in the new rivets without marking the front. It takes time, but it can be time well spent.
Hope that helps.
@@GreenleafWorkshop Thanks for the advice, that'll help hugely! :D
Looking forward to you next video.
Thanks, just need to finish the gauntlets I'm making :)
Greenleaf Workshop Could you please do a video on gauntlets if you have the time?
Sometime in the future I hope to, need to finish the how to build an arm harness video first (rerebraces next, then I'll have some more time to think of what to do next .. it's on the list though :)
Whats the advantage of slot and eye? What was it used for?
In theory it helps protect the slightly more vulnerable strap end if it's riveted to the outside of the armour. Additionally it offers slightly less of a catch for weapons. You see it a lot in 14th century armour, but it gradually looses its popularity making occasional come backs from time to time.
does the nail have to be a special sort of metal?. I got similar nails like this but made out of steel (I think) and they can't be hammered down like you do here. The nails you use here looks like aluminium?.
Kevin, the nails are made of steel. I used to struggle but a nice heavy object underneath (the anvil) and a reasonably smooth ball peen hammer helps. I find pointed ball peens make it hard wrk. I hope that helps.
when i make rivets with bigger nails, they sometimes have a tendency to crack, how can i avoid it ?
Nail quality can be a bit of a lottery. If the shank is too long they can tend to lean over and sometime crack, but if its the shank itself cracking, after you've cut them to the length you want try filing the top flat again (it will likely be a bit pointed from being snipped) this might help a bit. Then hit the rivet square on to spread it a bit then clip around the circumference to get it to bit ... might help. Good luck amigo.
Does the weight of the ball peen matter? What would you recommend?