Thanks for checking out the video. You will love your PantoRouter since it is such a versatile machine. I had to refer back to this video for some recent drawers that I made.
Excellent explanation! The boxes look extremely strong and besides providing wrack resistance, this method creates a box that can’t twist either. Marking the up/out&in of the components was a good move. Anyway, thanks a ton.
I’m new to the Pantorouter, I’ve been struggling to do dove tails. This video is probably the best I’ve seen so far but one thing that I can’t get is when he cuts the pins. He mentioned that he adjusted the height, that’s a key point on getting tight fits but I don’t think he showed it here. How do you adjust the height on the template board to get tight pins? Great video though
Thanks for your compliment, Gaston and also for your excellent question. You are correct that the fit of the dovetails is entirely done by adjusting the width of the pins. You are also correct that changing the height of the template holder changes the width of the pins and thus is used to get a perfect fit. My approach is to pencil in the pins from the tails as I show at about 7:00 into the video. From there, I adjust the template holder height while moving the router up and down against one of the dovetail templates (the router is off at this point) until I get close to the line. I then start making test cuts and refine the height of the template holder until the fit is perfect. I suspect your question is about how I make small adjustments to the height of the template holder. If so, I find the best way is with the template holder micro-adjuster which is sold by PantoRouter. Before I had this, I would mostly eyeball the movement of the template holder and it didn't take many test cuts to get it dialed in. Does this answer your question?
Thank you for taking the time to respond, yes it does but if you ever do another video I would appreciate if you can show it, also do you use the 10 mm bearing for the entire process? Thank you.
@@gaston188 Hi Gaston - I don't recall which bearing I used to rout the pins. Several different bearing sizes may work for the pins - I chose by using the pencil lines transferred from the tails until it looked like I was close to the line. I think it will make more sense once you do some test cuts
Excellent video. I was hoping I could ask how you dialled the cut of your bottom piece so well so that your dovetails still lined up beautifully and squared up in those grooves in the sides. Was there a little room in the depth of the groove or was there a method to make the grooves and the width of the bottom perfect? Thanks David. Big fan of your channel.
Hi Jason and thanks for your feedback. I'm not clear on your question so please feel free to ask more. I dry fit the drawer and then measured the width for the bottom and cut it about 1/32" undersize. The depth of the bottom is not critical since it is not trapped in a groove.
@@davidbedrosian1567 thanks so much for replying - The undersizing by 1/32 is exactly what I was curious about - Sorry for my long winded confusing wording lol.
@@jasondarr1238 I'm glad that makes sense. Don't hesitate to reach out with any other questions. If you are on Instagram, you can find a lot more of my content @BedrosianWoodworks
I didn't get any blowout on the outside of the tail boards which is what really counts. That's probably because the outside was up and I could start the cut slowly. I got a small amount of blowout on a few of the tails on the inside but it was minimal. The pins were perfect. Thanks for watching and I'm glad the video was useful
This was a great video. You’re a good teacher. I’m awaiting my pantorouter and I’ll be referencing this video a lot.
Thanks for checking out the video. You will love your PantoRouter since it is such a versatile machine. I had to refer back to this video for some recent drawers that I made.
Great job walking through the process!
Thanks Kevin
Excellent explanation! The boxes look extremely strong and besides providing wrack resistance, this method creates a box that can’t twist either. Marking the up/out&in of the components was a good move. Anyway, thanks a ton.
Thanks Ramon. Your excellent videos were a great help and inspiration. Cheers
I’m new to the Pantorouter, I’ve been struggling to do dove tails. This video is probably the best I’ve seen so far but one thing that I can’t get is when he cuts the pins. He mentioned that he adjusted the height, that’s a key point on getting tight fits but I don’t think he showed it here. How do you adjust the height on the template board to get tight pins? Great video though
Thanks for your compliment, Gaston and also for your excellent question. You are correct that the fit of the dovetails is entirely done by adjusting the width of the pins. You are also correct that changing the height of the template holder changes the width of the pins and thus is used to get a perfect fit. My approach is to pencil in the pins from the tails as I show at about 7:00 into the video. From there, I adjust the template holder height while moving the router up and down against one of the dovetail templates (the router is off at this point) until I get close to the line. I then start making test cuts and refine the height of the template holder until the fit is perfect. I suspect your question is about how I make small adjustments to the height of the template holder. If so, I find the best way is with the template holder micro-adjuster which is sold by PantoRouter. Before I had this, I would mostly eyeball the movement of the template holder and it didn't take many test cuts to get it dialed in. Does this answer your question?
Thank you for taking the time to respond, yes it does but if you ever do another video I would appreciate if you can show it, also do you use the 10 mm bearing for the entire process? Thank you.
@@gaston188 Hi Gaston - I don't recall which bearing I used to rout the pins. Several different bearing sizes may work for the pins - I chose by using the pencil lines transferred from the tails until it looked like I was close to the line. I think it will make more sense once you do some test cuts
Nice Video!
Thanks!
Merci pour cette vidéo. Superbe travail et explications.
Merci Joel
Excellent video. I was hoping I could ask how you dialled the cut of your bottom piece so well so that your dovetails still lined up beautifully and squared up in those grooves in the sides. Was there a little room in the depth of the groove or was there a method to make the grooves and the width of the bottom perfect? Thanks David. Big fan of your channel.
Hi Jason and thanks for your feedback. I'm not clear on your question so please feel free to ask more. I dry fit the drawer and then measured the width for the bottom and cut it about 1/32" undersize. The depth of the bottom is not critical since it is not trapped in a groove.
@@davidbedrosian1567 thanks so much for replying - The undersizing by 1/32 is exactly what I was curious about - Sorry for my long winded confusing wording lol.
@@jasondarr1238 I'm glad that makes sense. Don't hesitate to reach out with any other questions. If you are on Instagram, you can find a lot more of my content @BedrosianWoodworks
Great tutorial David, did you get any blowout when routing the dovetails?
I didn't get any blowout on the outside of the tail boards which is what really counts. That's probably because the outside was up and I could start the cut slowly. I got a small amount of blowout on a few of the tails on the inside but it was minimal. The pins were perfect. Thanks for watching and I'm glad the video was useful