Honestly he may be one of the best reviewers period. I would listen to this guy talk about lawn mowers. Super detailed reviews, well structured, always calls out the small details and mentions when he is making a subjective comment, top notch all around.
Impossible on 8020. I used a stubby ball end hex key to mount them normally, that way tt can be done on 8020 but it's very tedius. Really a design oversight by Fanatec in my opinion.
I was researching for hours to find the most info on setting up a new simulator. I stumbled upon SRG and your in depth videos left me satisfied to the point of feeling no need for other reviews! I’ll be upgrading from a G29 to the CSL elite PS4 wheel, these pedals, and SQ V1.5 shifter thanks to these videos!
47:50 Regarding the flex - Even without the load cell brake the whole pedal set tips over even on low brake pressure, if it is not hard mounted to anything. The flex you felt was not the pedal set, it was the twisting of the *single axial mounting position* you used. I can't imagine the amount of torsional force you put your poor pedal frame through. At 43:45 you can see the pedals hanging over the rear edge of the pedal frame - if you'd have moved them forwards a bit and used to rear mounting holes to fasten them down so that they'd be locked not only around the Y axis (the horisontal mounting bar that you can clearly see at 44:00 with the 6 bolts, that had to endure all that torsional force), but the XY plane as well, that would have left no room for flex what so ever. Other than that, great review as always Barry! If you end up trying my solution out, please get back to this comment and let me know if you felt any improvement.
Best, most thorough reviews on youtube. I watched this to try and get an idea of what the extra money is for in the clubsport v3 pedals and this absolutely answered my question. I'm going to save a bit more and get the clubsport ones.
10:55: nylon lock nut or "nylock" nut fyi. at least in Canada.... appreciate the break down, your vids are thorough af and anyone looking to get into sim racing should watch them so thank you!
Great review, but I think the rods are not to link 2 pedals, but 3. Both rods go through 3 pedals, with the spacers between the pedals. This way you won’t get a rod extending from either side, and you could mount the plastic parts back on the left of the clutch and right of the throttle.
I've beaten all my personal record lap times in Assetto Corsa by .500 to a full second since upgrading to these from the logitech g29 pedals. Soooooo much better.
@@reviewforthetube6485 Glad I had to look through comments to get this info. Should have been heavily covered in the video and on fanatecs website. Not just ONE bullet point.
I’m slowly watching your back catalogue of videos. I’m so tempted to upgrade my PlayStation and Logitech setup to a Fanatec and PC setup. I’ve just got to fund it as it isn’t cheap 🤔
A bit late, but: for anyone wondering, no, you cannot change the rubber insert for the gas pedal. Only the clutch one. I tried already and the gas insert I believe is either super glued or a part of the pedal itself. I didn’t try switching the clutch and gas around instead but that likely won’t work as they use their individual connection labeled. Other than that, great video!
The easiest solution I found for the two mounting holes in the squared area under the pedal plate, was to use wing nuts instead of hex nuts and an Allen wrench.
Looking forward to getting my set. Barry did an excellent job with this review. I believe I know what to expect once they arrive. I just may drill some holes for mounting them once I get a rig. Who knows?
These just came in the mail for me today and I'm very excited to finally be upgrading from the stock pedals that come with the tx wheel. Thank you for putting together such a detailed review! I don't think I'll even need the instructions!
@@HowToMission stiffer than I expected but clearly better. My driving noticable improved right away and will only get better with more time. Haven't had time to really get used to them fully yet. I'm sure I will
Great rewiew Barry. Regarding the flex. The reason it flex are the missing bolts in the heel plate. I see all pedals flex when you use the brake. Don't think you would have any when using bolts in the heelplate also. Check your footcam recording. Cheers
I just recieved these and my rig has not arrived yet, so I can't hardmount them. Its really a must. 2 things I dont like. 1. The LC pedal has some clearance from side to side, which make it feel cheap or not properly assembled. 2. I dont like loadcell position because it senses forces different depending on foot placement (high or low). But I think not having them hardmounted is causing inconsistency, as the whole unit moves. So I hope once fixated in a rig my braking movement will be more consistent and therefore eliminate the issue. I mean its likely I won't place my foot higher or lower constantly then. Good review btw!
As you have said, the load cell placement and method of reading flex in the pedal lever results in huge inconsistency with even minor variations in foot placement. I don't think you're going to find suitable improvement once hard mounted either, unfortunately. To me, it was completely unacceptable, and especially so when heel and toe braking. I return them for a refund - it really was very frustrating to drive. I went back to my G27 pedals with a "Nixim" style mod in the brake, and was much better off. Until they fail, I probably won't bother trying to upgrade - I can't believe how durable and good they've been, too. Had them something like 10 years now. Plenty of use, and higher than intended pressure, due to that brake mod. Honestly, I think you should get your money back on these if you can, and get something else.
@@tubefac3 Well at least I'm glad its not just me. Refunding them is not really a option because then the next option would be the HE sprints I guess? Or I mean, that would be the next step up for me, which is not yet where I'm at with simracing.
@@berrydex I understand :-). Though, as mentioned, for what it's worth, I'm much happier with my modified G27 Logitech pedals. The fanatec clubsport V3 seen good and less expensive.... Those protosimtech PT pedals also maybe slightly cheaper. Sim racing often isn't a short term hobby, at least. It's just a shame the cell elite brake sucks! You made a reasonable investment
I've also had that annoying side to side movement in brake pedal, when you press it little bit there's like part of mm in axle play which of course multiply somewhat on pedal's plate height. Anyone found good solution to that? I've tried to found very thin washers to put in there where bolt go through, but it also damn difficult to put there so that they would stay in place when you feed to bolt through. Takin foam out from stack(65, 85, 85, 95, 95, 95) helped too, when pedal is firmer straight away it helps not to notice that sideway paly so easliy.
@@raikkusaatana I removed the foam as well, and there is indeed more tension on pedal now, which eliminates the movement quite a bit. Next issue is the pedal placement, not sure if it's a combination of the simlab rig I use. But angle isn't optimal, already have the pedal tray as low as it can go. Maybe it's the foot rest plate being too high or something. Ah well at least I'm having fun with racing. Pedal upgrade is next.
Another great and clear review. This pedal set was one of the best value for money investments I've done. I will also trial & error with the different 65-85-95 rubbers.
Heads up! If your using this pedal kit Under a desk be ready for some small issues... the carpet catcher doesn’t work and the brake pedal is so stiff it lifts everything off the ground But even with that said I’d buy this kit again all day!
@@fluppy4202 Comfort was alright, I dont drive with shoes on so I did tape a yogamat strip for my heel, but this is a long time ago. Already moved on to HE pros
If you do want to use the rod and spacers to tie the front of the pedals together . Cut a piece of threaded rod long enough to go through all the pedals with a nut on each end ,instead of using two separate bolts .
The one problem I ran into with this load cell is on a PS4, GT Sport does not have a calibration for the pedals. I ended up going back onto my PC and I had already updated the firmware and drivers, but I did not manually calibrate the brake minimum. It really helps on PC and PS4, since I was dragging my brake even using 5 @ 85 and one @ 65 rubber bushings. It really takes the pedals from "competent" to "very good" pedals. Sure there are better ones out there, but these are very good "lower to mid priced" pedals.
Superb review. Got these pedals today switching from sfandard g27 pedals to these. Holy crap what a difference. Only my playseat baseplate bends alot when braking. Now I wish so bad I also had a Fanatec wheelbase and wheel. But its so expensive.
The soft yellow foam is required no matter which durometer bushings are used. "The brake rod takes five pieces of elastomer springs plus the required soft yellow spring." page 18
These are much nicer than the new CSL pedals, thicker aluminum nice paint on all surfaces and bigger pedals. It is pretty shitty that Fanatec has discontinued the load cell for these but I bought them anyways. Plus, if you go on Fantec's pedal forums you will see page after page of people with issues with the new CSLs. Stay away unless you want to roll the dice. There's a reason why these (without the load cell) are $20 more than the CSL (without the load cell) kit... better quality.
Having recently purchased these pedals including the load cell brake kit I have to add some comments about installation/mounting. 1000% if you are mounting these to something flat like a piece of plywood or a metal plate use Cap Head Allen bolts. I mounted these to a piece of plywood for use just on a floor and a future DIY rig is the plan and used regular old hardware store 5/16 bolts/nuts as they didn't have enough of the M8 Cap head hardware and I didn't want to have to wait another couple days to use my new toys. That was a massive mistake. While I was able to get the pedals mounted in the end it was the most massive pain in the a$$ I have had to deal with in a situation like this in a LONG time. There are a number of big problems mounting these to something flat(plywood, MDF, sheet metal, aluminum plate) and that's simply the ability to grab a nut with any kind of wrench or socket from the top of the pedals and the problem he mentioned with the two front mounting holes is even exacerbated if you use regular bolts/nuts. It is nearly impossible to be able to grab hex end of a bolt or the other end(nut) with any kind of wrench/socket in those two holes at the back of the pedals and on the load cell brake pedal it's even more difficult with the bumps holding the rubber compression bumpers in place taking up even more space. Overall I would say the engineering about mounting these pedals was an afterthought at best all around. If you order these pedals make sure you order M8 cap head bolts with the allen key head 100%. At least the back holes on the pedals will be MUCH easier to deal with. The front mounting holes will be a ridiculous pain in the butt no matter what option you choose. The final issue is...plug in the USB or RJ12 plug before mounting them to anything flat(wood/metal) or it will be...again...a huge pain in the butt to try to plug those in under the base plate after mounting the pedals to whatever flat plate you happen to be using. All that being said, for the price, these are some decent pedals. When I can afford them I will likely upgrade to the Heusinkveld Ultimate, but at less than 1/4 the price these have a load cell and are a big step up from the G27 pedals I had been using. I just wish the mounting was easier. It easily took me a good 2 hours and more than a few colorful words to get these mounted to something useful and installed. Just my additional two cents on the mounting of these pedals.
Did you have any problems with shipping? I bought the pedals from Fanatec website but *Endor America LLC* took my payment.🤔 My Fanatec account shows I did not order the item... But Endor LLC took my money.
Thank you for that great video. I love the CSL Elite with the LOADCELL update. I can see in your video that you own an MFG Crosswind for which you have created a dedicated plate. Can you show us how easily you change your simpit to a fly pit with that system ? - I love to create that kind of system - Many thank
Probably the best sim pedal system i've tried I strongly recommend to add that great MOD to the loadcell pedal : Try that you won't regret : www.leboncoin.fr/informatique/1915568006.htm I can help people finding that master piece ! A+
Thanks Mr Roland, i'm currently in the market for a starter pedal set with load cell and your videos are great guides, i would love to see a comparison between pedals in the same price point. I watched the the Thrustmaster T-LCM video and i guess this is the better option!
Great video. I too have the LC pedal set, and love them. I had the Logitech G29 wheel and pedal set. This is a vast upgrade to those. I also had the same problem with my gas pedal pod within 3 months of owning them. I got them when they first came out, Fanatec sent my out a replacement pod right away, easy enough to replace. Other than that initial problem, I would definitely recommend these pedals, especially at this price point, you can't go wrong.
I recently got a set of these pedals. For now I'm using the 65 sure bumpers because they aren't mounted to a stand or rig. That is coming soon. One issue I have with the pedals is, the braking force varies depending on where you press on the brake pedal. If you press lower on the pedal, you will have a tough time reaching 100% brake application. However if you press at the top of the pedal face, hitting 100% brake application is easy. I would like a set of pedals that is measuring the force applied through the elastomer bushings, rather than a set that is looking at how the pedal arm bends. That said, I am getting the hang of the pedals. They are much better than the potentiometer based CSR pedals I replaced them with.
I read this on Reddit as well. Did you ever find a solution or did you get used to it? I don’t get how the load cell is mounted so high, I’d think it wouldn’t do anything up there.
@@rxw5520 I'm use to it, but now the pedals are on place holder status. After I get an Aluminum extrusion rig, I plan on getting a better set of pedals. I'm also now using the 85 shore bumpers.
@@wwjnz9263 yeah I’m just gonna wait. I put a load cell behind my thrustmaster pedals and it picks up the braking force well. Maybe Fanatec will put the load cell between the pedal and bushings next time, and make the pedal stiff. Seems like the common sense design.
@@rxw5520 That is what Fanatec did with the new CSL pedals, but its only 65 shore bumpers. To me, I am starting to see that Fanatec doesn't think things through, or at least; they don't consider things from the users perspective. For example, the way the CSL pedal plate is secured to a rig is kind of wonky. The user has to sandwich spacers in between the pedal deck and the mounting plate; all while having to attach the pedal deck from underneath the rig's mounting plate. Why didn't they design something that can be bolted downward from the top, and the heel plate would be a beauty piece, installed last? It makes no sense to design the CSL's pedals to be mounted like that.
@@wwjnz9263 I actually just noticed the new version of these are metal and have placed the load cell in the proper place. Glad they’ve addressed it. I was googling csl load cell pedals, and for some reason the csl elite lc came up and I didn’t appreciate the difference.
As usual, great thorough review, thank you! My guess is you are an engineer or have an engineering background? You remind me of my brother who is an engineer and has to pull everything apart to see how it works. :) Kudos!!
Really needs bolts on the front as well because pressing the pedals lifts the front of the unit. The lack of bolts in front does create flex. Also with socks only you can feel that rubber gasket under your heal.
Great review, but is there a way to raise the brake pedal further forward than the throttle? Technically, the brake pedal is supposed to be adjusted forward for proper heel/toe, especially if there's a lot of brake pedal travel.
Yes, that's how it is shown in the manual. But not the only way you can do it. I prefer to stagger the supports. That way the rods can support the outside pedal mount flanges for the throttle and the clutch. Each his own...
Here is a good tut from Neils : ua-cam.com/video/b3Ut4R1O-Sw/v-deo.html Make sure you use the USB connection for pedals. Calibrate in the windows game controller utility or DIView. I just went with the base calibration then tuned in which ever game I was playing to my preference. The manual describes the PC calibration process in detail.
Speaking as an owner of these pedals, I absolutely hate that brake pedal. Foot position vertically on the pedal face is more important than the actual pressure you apply with your foot. The major flaw is that it measures the flex halfway up the pedal arm, rather than any sort of single point away from the pedal arm, like the Clubsports or Heusinkvelds. Heck, I preferred my old T3PA's, and would still be using them if I didn't break the throttle spring. This means that any drivers that might reposition their foot will be at a major disadvantage unless they make sure to replace it in *exactly the same* position.
My god...wish I could +1,000 on that. I was SO surprised no one mentioned this in ANY of the reviews. All I saw were raves. Five minutes in to using them, that was the first thing I noticed. The 2 pedal pot setup was fine, and definitely better than the Thrustmaster and Logitech pedals. But the load cell version is WAY too sensitive to foot placement. I was seeing 20-30% differences depending on if I was pressing the very top or the mid/top. I'm told that taking out some of the pedal angle may help, but I'm definitely skeptical of whether it will make any significant change. That said, I'm still significantly faster with these vs. the Logitechs I've had in the past. So it is worth it, but consistency will likely go down by quite some way. If I had it to do all over, I'd opt for the Clubsports.
thank you guys for this info! was about to bite the bullet and buy a pair of these until i read your comments! might go with the clubsport v3's after all.
Great review! Would've been nice to see the potentiometers of the standard pedals to get a mention, it looks like these get the most complaints online that they start to spike etc...didn't really see where these were located exactly, I assume it's a quick and easy replacement if one had to upgrade/replace the pots
these pedals look great, the only downside for me is that they are aligned pretty much leveled and there's no adjustment to bring them to the front/back but without the base they can be mounted anywhere and in whatever position.
I was just looking for this comment. Glad someone mentioned it If anyone is wondering how it's meant to work, the nuts at each end of the bar go against the inside side of each of the outside pedals (not the outside, and definitely not with spacers on the outside)
I think these are great, BUT, i had 2 potentiometers go bad in just 1 year. Support was actually good and they send me new meters pretty fast. Last month though the 3rd one started to act funny and also broke a few days after. So i got fed up and bought the clubsport v3 pedals ;D, which has Hall effect sensors instead of potentiometers. I'm hoping these will last longer. ;)
Like to ask community what bumper strengths do you use . I run mine what he does but I've taken one out so the pedal sits lower and it's easier on my ankle
already done that, the pot is on the way out, have to use contact cleaner on it every time i want to use the pedals, fanatec are sending me out a new pot, hopefully the same wont happen again, also the gear on the pot itself is plastic unfortunately
47:33 I've never used direct USB, what kind of issues are there using it through the wheel base? Is it an input lag issue? Resolution? Just looking for a reason worth rewiring my whole rig to move that one wire. Lol
If there are any plastic parts taking load, the retail price should be low. Once bolted to a frame, the important choice seems to be between flexing and unflexing pedals (in terms of feel). By the time sim players are getting serious, they'll surely break anything flimsy within weeks.
Hey buddy... very nice video... Does this CSL Elite with LC is better than the V3 clubsport pedals??? Is the Ve a good investiment or there will be no such difference or pros bettween V3 and CSL ??
si bought these but there is a huge difference on were you put your foot on the pedal with the brake..everytime i put my foot regular its hard to push when i accidentally miss place and go higher its super easy..how can i fix this? i hate it.
I scanned through to see that surely someone who has used these would notice this! It's.. a MASSIVE problem, I agree entirely. I got them, and returned them promptly. Bad enough with left foot braking cars - completely horrible when trying to heel and toe. Went back to my G27 pedals with a "Nixim" style modification. I don't think there is a "fix" - I believe the "load cell" in this arrangement is measuring flex in the pedal lever. It was never going to work consistently for the application at hand (or rather, foot)
@@bigbaderek1978yeah, neither. still seems like it's going to be victim of the "bending" force it's measuring, which will inherently be massively affected by the amount of leverage -small variations in foot position, big difference in registered load for same perceived driver input/force. I absolutely couldn't stand it. I wish you luck! But...I reckon get rid of 'em ;-)
Hi Derek, I had the same issue. I was using it from a office chair on a wheel stand and that angle really makes this problem noticeable. I was able to fix this using two things. First, I raised and angled the pedals so that the top of the pedal is no longer easily used. I also turned down the force needed for maximum brake, 40-50 on the BRF setting in the wheel's tuning menu. If you aren't using the Fanatec wheel, I think you can update it in the software (for PC use). If raising the pedals isn't available on your setup, the change to the brake force made a huge difference.
I read this and thought, why would you do that, so I sped up the video and I actually spit my drank out laughing because it actually DID make the video shorter and better.
just subscribed to your youtube channel ,thanx for all the in debt revues they are the best iv seen any where.i have a question i have a G 29 set up for the play station 4 GRAND TOURISM SPORT id would like to add the FANATEC CSL ELITE PEDALS with the load cell ,will they work with the g29 steering wheel ?thank you .
Elie the short answer is no, not directly; the longer answer is if you are willing to spend more to buy a DriveHub then yes, you plug both your G29 and these pedals into the DriveHub using USB and then USB out of the DriveHub into your PS4
I sure wish you would show the wiring and how to for the V3 panel set I have CSL elite bass It only has we will direct him assuming that is where you plug though break into?
I am moving between buying the thrustmaster t-lcm and this one. I dont like the thrustmaster Plastic Bit the load cell Looks better on the thrustmaster. What would you prefer to buy?? Greetings from Germany. Liam
What’s the best way to use these? Is stiff (95) better generally? Or is it a personal preference? Cause I’m wondering if the sweet spot is depending on how you sit, your leg ankle etc. what’s the best setup! Maybe the point where you find a good strength maximum but what still comfortable and not too hard. Like feeling the end of the pedal way according to your seating position as I mentioned! What do you think?
Does the advice of connecting the pedals directly with USB still apply, or has the issue with routing them through wheelbase been fixed? And what difference in feel was there exactly? Response time? And thank you for some great reviews, Barry.
Do you try or test this pedals only with gas and brake? Like the original kit standalone? I bought one set without loadcell and they are rubish, absolute sh...t They have a lot of initial dead zone and you can not configurate anything. In Fanatec they explain that in order to work well and get full adjustment we need to buy the loadcell upgrade. Anybody expirience this?
Barry is one of the best Sim racing reviewers on UA-cam, or anywhere. He deserves more subscribers.
Honestly he may be one of the best reviewers period. I would listen to this guy talk about lawn mowers. Super detailed reviews, well structured, always calls out the small details and mentions when he is making a subjective comment, top notch all around.
With that problem accessing the bolt you spoke about. Nut on inside, fasten from outside underneath, no need to drill the top plate
Agreed. Or tighten the nut instead while holding the screw in place. I was surprised how much time he spent on "missing" holes.
maybe some rigs don't offer that option? idk tho
Impossible on 8020. I used a stubby ball end hex key to mount them normally, that way tt can be done on 8020 but it's very tedius. Really a design oversight by Fanatec in my opinion.
This guy! I love how the video is split in segments.
4 years later and Fanatec used your advice for bolting the heel plate. Legend
I was researching for hours to find the most info on setting up a new simulator. I stumbled upon SRG and your in depth videos left me satisfied to the point of feeling no need for other reviews! I’ll be upgrading from a G29 to the CSL elite PS4 wheel, these pedals, and SQ V1.5 shifter thanks to these videos!
Elite ? Or csw 2.5 😏
Anyone know what shifter he is using in this video?
Have had these pedals for a year now, Still love them
47:50 Regarding the flex - Even without the load cell brake the whole pedal set tips over even on low brake pressure, if it is not hard mounted to anything. The flex you felt was not the pedal set, it was the twisting of the *single axial mounting position* you used. I can't imagine the amount of torsional force you put your poor pedal frame through.
At 43:45 you can see the pedals hanging over the rear edge of the pedal frame - if you'd have moved them forwards a bit and used to rear mounting holes to fasten them down so that they'd be locked not only around the Y axis (the horisontal mounting bar that you can clearly see at 44:00 with the 6 bolts, that had to endure all that torsional force), but the XY plane as well, that would have left no room for flex what so ever.
Other than that, great review as always Barry! If you end up trying my solution out, please get back to this comment and let me know if you felt any improvement.
So, if I do hard mount mine to my 80/20 rig this flex won't be an issue? That's my only worry with this pedal set at the moment
Best, most thorough reviews on youtube. I watched this to try and get an idea of what the extra money is for in the clubsport v3 pedals and this absolutely answered my question. I'm going to save a bit more and get the clubsport ones.
This is the best sim racing review channel by a mile. Love your videos.
New intro engine Sound! lovely, Great review as always.
911 rsr ;)
10:55: nylon lock nut or "nylock" nut fyi. at least in Canada....
appreciate the break down, your vids are thorough af and anyone looking to get into sim racing should watch them so thank you!
Great review, but I think the rods are not to link 2 pedals, but 3. Both rods go through 3 pedals, with the spacers between the pedals. This way you won’t get a rod extending from either side, and you could mount the plastic parts back on the left of the clutch and right of the throttle.
Greetings from Great Britain Sir. I love your videos and your lucid, dulcet and smooth tones! You're accent is amazing!
I've beaten all my personal record lap times in Assetto Corsa by .500 to a full second since upgrading to these from the logitech g29 pedals. Soooooo much better.
Did you upgrade the pedals and the wheel or just the pedals?
Can I add to the Thrustmaster 300 wheel ?
@@meeterhead462 If you use PC you can use the USB (which is preferred so you're guaranteed the 16-bit resolution on the brake pedal
@@reviewforthetube6485 Glad I had to look through comments to get this info. Should have been heavily covered in the video and on fanatecs website. Not just ONE bullet point.
I’m slowly watching your back catalogue of videos. I’m so tempted to upgrade my PlayStation and Logitech setup to a Fanatec and PC setup. I’ve just got to fund it as it isn’t cheap 🤔
Do it! If you enjoy sim racing as a hobby you won't regret it.
A bit late, but:
for anyone wondering, no, you cannot change the rubber insert for the gas pedal. Only the clutch one. I tried already and the gas insert I believe is either super glued or a part of the pedal itself.
I didn’t try switching the clutch and gas around instead but that likely won’t work as they use their individual connection labeled.
Other than that, great video!
these are still the best bang for buck pedals out there. I can't really see a need to upgrade them
you deserve 100k+ subs, it'll come .. thanks for another great review
Tempted to buy these pedals so checked this video yet, but the main thing I learnt is that holy shit your heel and toe is insane
Oh hi. Fancy seeing you here...
@@Sweaty__Sheep evening ladies
@@grandassassin24 🤣 nice to see this channel gaining more viewers!
The easiest solution I found for the two mounting holes in the squared area under the pedal plate, was to use wing nuts instead of hex nuts and an Allen wrench.
Looking forward to getting my set. Barry did an excellent job with this review. I believe I know what to expect once they arrive. I just may drill some holes for mounting them once I get a rig. Who knows?
Excellent review again, as usual, Barry. Thank you.
These just came in the mail for me today and I'm very excited to finally be upgrading from the stock pedals that come with the tx wheel. Thank you for putting together such a detailed review! I don't think I'll even need the instructions!
Just ordered mine today. Same set up with the tmx wheel. How do you like it
@@HowToMission stiffer than I expected but clearly better. My driving noticable improved right away and will only get better with more time. Haven't had time to really get used to them fully yet. I'm sure I will
I have had this kit for months and I had no idea that using USB would be a better option. Going to try that immediately. Thanks!
Did you notice any difference when using it with USB on PC?
Thanks for the video, one and a half year later I am going to buy this =)
Great rewiew Barry. Regarding the flex. The reason it flex are the missing bolts in the heel plate. I see all pedals flex when you use the brake. Don't think you would have any when using bolts in the heelplate also. Check your footcam recording. Cheers
I just recieved these and my rig has not arrived yet, so I can't hardmount them. Its really a must. 2 things I dont like. 1. The LC pedal has some clearance from side to side, which make it feel cheap or not properly assembled. 2. I dont like loadcell position because it senses forces different depending on foot placement (high or low). But I think not having them hardmounted is causing inconsistency, as the whole unit moves. So I hope once fixated in a rig my braking movement will be more consistent and therefore eliminate the issue. I mean its likely I won't place my foot higher or lower constantly then. Good review btw!
As you have said, the load cell placement and method of reading flex in the pedal lever results in huge inconsistency with even minor variations in foot placement.
I don't think you're going to find suitable improvement once hard mounted either, unfortunately. To me, it was completely unacceptable, and especially so when heel and toe braking. I return them for a refund - it really was very frustrating to drive.
I went back to my G27 pedals with a "Nixim" style mod in the brake, and was much better off. Until they fail, I probably won't bother trying to upgrade - I can't believe how durable and good they've been, too. Had them something like 10 years now. Plenty of use, and higher than intended pressure, due to that brake mod. Honestly, I think you should get your money back on these if you can, and get something else.
@@tubefac3 Well at least I'm glad its not just me. Refunding them is not really a option because then the next option would be the HE sprints I guess? Or I mean, that would be the next step up for me, which is not yet where I'm at with simracing.
@@berrydex I understand :-). Though, as mentioned, for what it's worth, I'm much happier with my modified G27 Logitech pedals. The fanatec clubsport V3 seen good and less expensive.... Those protosimtech PT pedals also maybe slightly cheaper. Sim racing often isn't a short term hobby, at least. It's just a shame the cell elite brake sucks! You made a reasonable investment
I've also had that annoying side to side movement in brake pedal, when you press it little bit there's like part of mm in axle play
which of course multiply somewhat on pedal's plate height.
Anyone found good solution to that? I've tried to found very thin washers to put in there where bolt go through, but it also damn difficult to put
there so that they would stay in place when you feed to bolt through. Takin foam out from stack(65, 85, 85, 95, 95, 95) helped too, when pedal is
firmer straight away it helps not to notice that sideway paly so easliy.
@@raikkusaatana I removed the foam as well, and there is indeed more tension on pedal now, which eliminates the movement quite a bit. Next issue is the pedal placement, not sure if it's a combination of the simlab rig I use. But angle isn't optimal, already have the pedal tray as low as it can go. Maybe it's the foot rest plate being too high or something. Ah well at least I'm having fun with racing. Pedal upgrade is next.
Loooove the attention to detail in these videos. Superb. Nothing else like them. Keep up the great work, Barry. 👍
Another great and clear review. This pedal set was one of the best value for money investments I've done. I will also trial & error with the different 65-85-95 rubbers.
Tungjatjeta 5
Heads up! If your using this pedal kit Under a desk be ready for some small issues... the carpet catcher doesn’t work and the brake pedal is so stiff it lifts everything off the ground
But even with that said I’d buy this kit again all day!
Update: if you can screw into your floor do it works amazingly!!
Class review Barry. You are my go to source for objective opinion. Keep up the good work.
Every time Barry uses the durometer with the item on top of the blue mat I'm left wondering what the Shore hardness of the mat is....
it doesn't effect the reading, but still a funny comment!
He measures it in his video about Fanatec's brake performance kit.
Not all superheros wear capes. Thanks for your hard work. Very informative.
I have mine mounted also with the 2 holes where your feet rest.
When you do that theres 0 flex not even the slightest.
Fabian van Dooren what about comfort
@@fluppy4202 Comfort was alright, I dont drive with shoes on so I did tape a yogamat strip for my heel, but this is a long time ago.
Already moved on to HE pros
If you do want to use the rod and spacers to tie the front of the pedals together . Cut a piece of threaded rod long enough to go through all the pedals with a nut on each end ,instead of using two separate bolts .
I play video just because to listen the relaxing voice in first place
The one problem I ran into with this load cell is on a PS4, GT Sport does not have a calibration for the pedals. I ended up going back onto my PC and I had already updated the firmware and drivers, but I did not manually calibrate the brake minimum. It really helps on PC and PS4, since I was dragging my brake even using 5 @ 85 and one @ 65 rubber bushings. It really takes the pedals from "competent" to "very good" pedals. Sure there are better ones out there, but these are very good "lower to mid priced" pedals.
Who would thumbs down? The review was flawless.
Thanks for the honest review I have one on the way order not to long-ago for 160 it seem like a decent deal
Great review again Barry, well done! 👍
Very good way to set up the pedals and load cell, bravo & thank you!
Great walkthrough! Thanks for making this.
I love my pair of CSL pedals but the potentiometer's cogwheel is made out of plastic which will tear from the aluminum cogs on the pedal itself
Yes, I had a problem with this straight out of the box.
So what did you do to fix it?
@@Notinserviceij support offered me to buy new pots, but I have since upgraded to other brands.
Superb review. Got these pedals today switching from sfandard g27 pedals to these. Holy crap what a difference. Only my playseat baseplate bends alot when braking. Now I wish so bad I also had a Fanatec wheelbase and wheel. But its so expensive.
The soft yellow foam is required no matter which durometer bushings are used.
"The brake rod takes five pieces of elastomer springs plus the required soft
yellow spring." page 18
These are much nicer than the new CSL pedals, thicker aluminum nice paint on all surfaces and bigger pedals. It is pretty shitty that Fanatec has discontinued the load cell for these but I bought them anyways. Plus, if you go on Fantec's pedal forums you will see page after page of people with issues with the new CSLs. Stay away unless you want to roll the dice. There's a reason why these (without the load cell) are $20 more than the CSL (without the load cell) kit... better quality.
Having recently purchased these pedals including the load cell brake kit I have to add some comments about installation/mounting.
1000% if you are mounting these to something flat like a piece of plywood or a metal plate use Cap Head Allen bolts.
I mounted these to a piece of plywood for use just on a floor and a future DIY rig is the plan and used regular old hardware store 5/16 bolts/nuts as they didn't have enough of the M8 Cap head hardware and I didn't want to have to wait another couple days to use my new toys. That was a massive mistake. While I was able to get the pedals mounted in the end it was the most massive pain in the a$$ I have had to deal with in a situation like this in a LONG time. There are a number of big problems mounting these to something flat(plywood, MDF, sheet metal, aluminum plate) and that's simply the ability to grab a nut with any kind of wrench or socket from the top of the pedals and the problem he mentioned with the two front mounting holes is even exacerbated if you use regular bolts/nuts. It is nearly impossible to be able to grab hex end of a bolt or the other end(nut) with any kind of wrench/socket in those two holes at the back of the pedals and on the load cell brake pedal it's even more difficult with the bumps holding the rubber compression bumpers in place taking up even more space. Overall I would say the engineering about mounting these pedals was an afterthought at best all around. If you order these pedals make sure you order M8 cap head bolts with the allen key head 100%. At least the back holes on the pedals will be MUCH easier to deal with. The front mounting holes will be a ridiculous pain in the butt no matter what option you choose.
The final issue is...plug in the USB or RJ12 plug before mounting them to anything flat(wood/metal) or it will be...again...a huge pain in the butt to try to plug those in under the base plate after mounting the pedals to whatever flat plate you happen to be using.
All that being said, for the price, these are some decent pedals. When I can afford them I will likely upgrade to the Heusinkveld Ultimate, but at less than 1/4 the price these have a load cell and are a big step up from the G27 pedals I had been using. I just wish the mounting was easier. It easily took me a good 2 hours and more than a few colorful words to get these mounted to something useful and installed.
Just my additional two cents on the mounting of these pedals.
Thanks so much for another excellent review
wow, great review again. Thank you for all your time and efforts.
Love your attention to details.
just got these pedals I used the clutch brake pedal as gas and the gas pedal as clutch the spring is stronger and it works fine
Did you have any problems with shipping? I bought the pedals from Fanatec website but *Endor America LLC* took my payment.🤔
My Fanatec account shows I did not order the item... But Endor LLC took my money.
hi barry,please review the fanatec clubsport pedals v3,that would be great thanks!
Great looking pedal set, thank you for the great review Barry.
Another wonderful review Barry. Keep doing you my friend. Best out there in this sector imho. Thanks for the share.
Thank you for that great video. I love the CSL Elite with the LOADCELL update. I can see in your video that you own an MFG Crosswind for which you have created a dedicated plate. Can you show us how easily you change your simpit to a fly pit with that system ? - I love to create that kind of system - Many thank
Probably the best sim pedal system i've tried
I strongly recommend to add that great MOD to the loadcell pedal :
Try that you won't regret :
www.leboncoin.fr/informatique/1915568006.htm
I can help people finding that master piece !
A+
@@mjuloski what?
Thanks Mr Roland, i'm currently in the market for a starter pedal set with load cell and your videos are great guides, i would love to see a comparison between pedals in the same price point. I watched the the Thrustmaster T-LCM video and i guess this is the better option!
Great video. I too have the LC pedal set, and love them. I had the Logitech G29 wheel and pedal set. This is a vast upgrade to those. I also had the same problem with my gas pedal pod within 3 months of owning them. I got them when they first came out, Fanatec sent my out a replacement pod right away, easy enough to replace. Other than that initial problem, I would definitely recommend these pedals, especially at this price point, you can't go wrong.
Best review guy out there imo
I love your videos mate, thanks for the great work.
I recently got a set of these pedals. For now I'm using the 65 sure bumpers because they aren't mounted to a stand or rig. That is coming soon.
One issue I have with the pedals is, the braking force varies depending on where you press on the brake pedal. If you press lower on the pedal, you will have a tough time reaching 100% brake application. However if you press at the top of the pedal face, hitting 100% brake application is easy.
I would like a set of pedals that is measuring the force applied through the elastomer bushings, rather than a set that is looking at how the pedal arm bends.
That said, I am getting the hang of the pedals. They are much better than the potentiometer based CSR pedals I replaced them with.
I read this on Reddit as well. Did you ever find a solution or did you get used to it? I don’t get how the load cell is mounted so high, I’d think it wouldn’t do anything up there.
@@rxw5520 I'm use to it, but now the pedals are on place holder status. After I get an Aluminum extrusion rig, I plan on getting a better set of pedals. I'm also now using the 85 shore bumpers.
@@wwjnz9263 yeah I’m just gonna wait. I put a load cell behind my thrustmaster pedals and it picks up the braking force well. Maybe Fanatec will put the load cell between the pedal and bushings next time, and make the pedal stiff. Seems like the common sense design.
@@rxw5520 That is what Fanatec did with the new CSL pedals, but its only 65 shore bumpers.
To me, I am starting to see that Fanatec doesn't think things through, or at least; they don't consider things from the users perspective.
For example, the way the CSL pedal plate is secured to a rig is kind of wonky. The user has to sandwich spacers in between the pedal deck and the mounting plate; all while having to attach the pedal deck from underneath the rig's mounting plate. Why didn't they design something that can be bolted downward from the top, and the heel plate would be a beauty piece, installed last?
It makes no sense to design the CSL's pedals to be mounted like that.
@@wwjnz9263 I actually just noticed the new version of these are metal and have placed the load cell in the proper place. Glad they’ve addressed it. I was googling csl load cell pedals, and for some reason the csl elite lc came up and I didn’t appreciate the difference.
The peace behind the brake pedal ( what holds the rubber pads) it’s Not made out of metal. Mine broke of . Thanks for nice review
As usual, great thorough review, thank you! My guess is you are an engineer or have an engineering background? You remind me of my brother who is an engineer and has to pull everything apart to see how it works. :) Kudos!!
Really needs bolts on the front as well because pressing the pedals lifts the front of the unit. The lack of bolts in front does create flex. Also with socks only you can feel that rubber gasket under your heal.
I have these and I love them. Maybe one day I'll upgrade to the HE pedals
you have done a lot of these pedals now. It would be work having a video to discuss the various pedals with advantages and disadvantages etc.
I am betting that inside of that HUGE toolbox, there is an allen head socket that will make the old school allen wrench a non-issue.
I would like a much better set of pedals. What is your recommendation? Money is no object. Subscribed!!
Great video, thank you. And really nice driving :)
Great review, but is there a way to raise the brake pedal further forward than the throttle? Technically, the brake pedal is supposed to be adjusted forward for proper heel/toe, especially if there's a lot of brake pedal travel.
the threaded stabilty bars are suppose to go all the way across using both hole sets.
Yes, that's how it is shown in the manual. But not the only way you can do it. I prefer to stagger the supports. That way the rods can support the outside pedal mount flanges for the throttle and the clutch. Each his own...
I would run DIView for initial calibration. Then just calibrate using the in game options when you drive.
Sim Racing Garage what is diview? Is that something to replace the fanatec software?and I was curious about the pressure setting for the load cell
Here is a good tut from Neils : ua-cam.com/video/b3Ut4R1O-Sw/v-deo.html Make sure you use the USB connection for pedals. Calibrate in the windows game controller utility or DIView. I just went with the base calibration then tuned in which ever game I was playing to my preference. The manual describes the PC calibration process in detail.
Sim Racing Garage thanks
Nice review as usual. The bolt in the pedal plate will fit the RSeat pedal plate. You just need to fix in the top and screew from behind.
I've been waiting for this video.
Speaking as an owner of these pedals, I absolutely hate that brake pedal.
Foot position vertically on the pedal face is more important than the actual pressure you apply with your foot.
The major flaw is that it measures the flex halfway up the pedal arm, rather than any sort of single point away from the pedal arm, like the Clubsports or Heusinkvelds.
Heck, I preferred my old T3PA's, and would still be using them if I didn't break the throttle spring.
This means that any drivers that might reposition their foot will be at a major disadvantage unless they make sure to replace it in *exactly the same* position.
My god...wish I could +1,000 on that. I was SO surprised no one mentioned this in ANY of the reviews. All I saw were raves. Five minutes in to using them, that was the first thing I noticed. The 2 pedal pot setup was fine, and definitely better than the Thrustmaster and Logitech pedals. But the load cell version is WAY too sensitive to foot placement. I was seeing 20-30% differences depending on if I was pressing the very top or the mid/top. I'm told that taking out some of the pedal angle may help, but I'm definitely skeptical of whether it will make any significant change.
That said, I'm still significantly faster with these vs. the Logitechs I've had in the past. So it is worth it, but consistency will likely go down by quite some way. If I had it to do all over, I'd opt for the Clubsports.
thank you guys for this info! was about to bite the bullet and buy a pair of these until i read your comments! might go with the clubsport v3's after all.
Great review! Would've been nice to see the potentiometers of the standard pedals to get a mention, it looks like these get the most complaints online that they start to spike etc...didn't really see where these were located exactly, I assume it's a quick and easy replacement if one had to upgrade/replace the pots
Be very careful with the stainless hardware. It can bind up. It happened to me and I was tightening by hand.
Loved your video...the way you explain and wow..can you do video of heal toe tutorial?
17:29 The cog is a rubber construction not full metal.
these pedals look great, the only downside for me is that they are aligned pretty much leveled and there's no adjustment to bring them to the front/back but without the base they can be mounted anywhere and in whatever position.
You put the stabilizing rods in wrong. They are made to have both going through all three...
I know and it pisses me off
I was just looking for this comment. Glad someone mentioned it
If anyone is wondering how it's meant to work, the nuts at each end of the bar go against the inside side of each of the outside pedals (not the outside, and definitely not with spacers on the outside)
Hey Barry, I'm currently using T3PA-PRO pedals with the Ricmotech load cell. Would the CSL Elite with load cell be an upgrade?
Without a doubt
I think these are great, BUT, i had 2 potentiometers go bad in just 1 year. Support was actually good and they send me new meters pretty fast. Last month though the 3rd one started to act funny and also broke a few days after. So i got fed up and bought the clubsport v3 pedals ;D, which has Hall effect sensors instead of potentiometers. I'm hoping these will last longer. ;)
Like to ask community what bumper strengths do you use
. I run mine what he does but I've taken one out so the pedal sits lower and it's easier on my ankle
A just in time for me, my csl gas pedal just recently started to spike and im interested to see the insides
Redeye ROB try blowing with a air spray inside the potentiometer
already done that, the pot is on the way out, have to use contact cleaner on it every time i want to use the pedals, fanatec are sending me out a new pot, hopefully the same wont happen again, also the gear on the pot itself is plastic unfortunately
After about 12 months of use I am having the same issues with my throttle pot
Is it still under warranty baker, they were very quick to sort out a replacement for me, definitely a bit of a problem it seems
I'll have to check and send them a message!
Would love to have these and something like your setup. Very cool but man what should i work to get money for these xD
You look like your absolutely hammering those pedals? They going to need to be quality to last with that kind of a beating lol.
@7 minutes
The bolt goes though the bottom, lots of space for a nut and socket head in that space.
47:33 I've never used direct USB, what kind of issues are there using it through the wheel base? Is it an input lag issue? Resolution? Just looking for a reason worth rewiring my whole rig to move that one wire. Lol
Better resolution on the brake pedal (12bit vs 16bit iirc)
If there are any plastic parts taking load, the retail price should be low. Once bolted to a frame, the important choice seems to be between flexing and unflexing pedals (in terms of feel). By the time sim players are getting serious, they'll surely break anything flimsy within weeks.
Hey buddy... very nice video... Does this CSL Elite with LC is better than the V3 clubsport pedals??? Is the Ve a good investiment or there will be no such difference or pros bettween V3 and CSL ??
si bought these but there is a huge difference on were you put your foot on the pedal with the brake..everytime i put my foot regular its hard to push when i accidentally miss place and go higher its super easy..how can i fix this? i hate it.
I scanned through to see that surely someone who has used these would notice this! It's.. a MASSIVE problem, I agree entirely.
I got them, and returned them promptly. Bad enough with left foot braking cars - completely horrible when trying to heel and toe. Went back to my G27 pedals with a "Nixim" style modification.
I don't think there is a "fix" - I believe the "load cell" in this arrangement is measuring flex in the pedal lever. It was never going to work consistently for the application at hand (or rather, foot)
@@tubefac3I did read that mounting the brake inverted will help but yea I don't have a set-up to do that with
@@bigbaderek1978yeah, neither. still seems like it's going to be victim of the "bending" force it's measuring, which will inherently be massively affected by the amount of leverage -small variations in foot position, big difference in registered load for same perceived driver input/force. I absolutely couldn't stand it. I wish you luck! But...I reckon get rid of 'em ;-)
Same for me !
Hi Derek, I had the same issue. I was using it from a office chair on a wheel stand and that angle really makes this problem noticeable. I was able to fix this using two things. First, I raised and angled the pedals so that the top of the pedal is no longer easily used. I also turned down the force needed for maximum brake, 40-50 on the BRF setting in the wheel's tuning menu. If you aren't using the Fanatec wheel, I think you can update it in the software (for PC use). If raising the pedals isn't available on your setup, the change to the brake force made a huge difference.
Hello mate nice vid! Need some help load cell brake pedal wire split can u change the load cell
Great video! I was able to see this video in 1.50x, much shorter video that way :)
I read this and thought, why would you do that, so I sped up the video and I actually spit my drank out laughing because it actually DID make the video shorter and better.
Ayeeee new intro sound
Love the details on your videos! Are you able to invert them?
just subscribed to your youtube channel ,thanx for all the in debt revues they are the best iv seen any where.i have a question i have a G 29 set up for the play station 4 GRAND TOURISM SPORT id would like to add the FANATEC CSL ELITE PEDALS with the load cell ,will they work with the g29 steering wheel ?thank you .
Elie the short answer is no, not directly; the longer answer is if you are willing to spend more to buy a DriveHub then yes, you plug both your G29 and these pedals into the DriveHub using USB and then USB out of the DriveHub into your PS4
I sure wish you would show the wiring and how to for the V3 panel set I have CSL elite bass It only has we will direct him assuming that is where you plug though break into?
I am moving between buying the thrustmaster t-lcm and this one. I dont like the thrustmaster Plastic Bit the load cell Looks better on the thrustmaster. What would you prefer to buy?? Greetings from Germany. Liam
What’s the best way to use these?
Is stiff (95) better generally? Or is it a personal preference? Cause I’m wondering if the sweet spot is depending on how you sit, your leg ankle etc. what’s the best setup! Maybe the point where you find a good strength maximum but what still comfortable and not too hard. Like feeling the end of the pedal way according to your seating position as I mentioned!
What do you think?
Does the advice of connecting the pedals directly with USB still apply, or has the issue with routing them through wheelbase been fixed?
And what difference in feel was there exactly? Response time?
And thank you for some great reviews, Barry.
You won't notice any difference, if you have a wheelbase just connect them.
Do you try or test this pedals only with gas and brake? Like the original kit standalone?
I bought one set without loadcell and they are rubish, absolute sh...t
They have a lot of initial dead zone and you can not configurate anything.
In Fanatec they explain that in order to work well and get full adjustment we need to buy the loadcell upgrade.
Anybody expirience this?