Floor Trusses VS. Floor Joists | Building Science w/ Kurt: Episode 2
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- When do you use floor Trusses vs Joists? What are the differences between the two and how does each home build determine which one to use?
In this episode of Building Science, Kurt examines two separate homes and explains the decisions behind each method.
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another minor consideration is that the deeper the floor structure, the higher the floor vibration frequency, which is desirable because most people find a floor vibration frequency of 7-10 Hz to be annoying. In general a stiffer floor will produce a higher vibration frequency. To prevent callbacks about floor vibration, some rules of thumb are: 1) use a live load of at least 40 psf in calculations 2) increase joist/truss depth by one size 3) glue and screw the sheathing. In floor trusses using strongbacks is important. For TJIs it's trickier, and you probably need to specifically ask the manufacturer how to prevent floor vibration
paraphrased from: Beyond Code: Preventing Floor Vibration
by Frank Woeste, P. E., and Dan Dolan, P. E.
Thanks for the information. Good stuff to know for those of us looking to build.
You got it --- thanks for checking it out!
I recently bought a newly constructed home. The second floor of the house has squeaking sound, they told me it is normal and it may reduce once furniture is on the floor. They have used open web truss joist. I find the sound very annoying, is there a way to reduce it. Builder tried multiple time and saying all is good and this cannot be perfect. Floor is little bouncy too.
I wish I could see more home construction or renovation videos discussing trusses. My house is all trusses, and I feel like the joist videos are not applicable to me. It's hard to know if i can trust what's reliable and what's not in converting to trusses.
What method would you suggest to reinforce an open web truss to support weight pulling down? For example, hanging a swing or workout equipment from the truss in the basement.
My floor joist over the crawl space run east to west. The floor joist above the first floor run north to south. The floor joist in the attic run north to west. I want to remove a wall on the right side of my first floor, how do I determine if it’s load bearing? It was previously two side by side closets. Above it is my son’s closet.
Difficult to assess with that info . Might seem easy ,A knowledgeable engineers needs to examine the entirety to determine loads . I don't know how many times I had a homeowner tell me that she they want a new room or opening and tell me " Well all you gotta do " loads ,spans mechanicals need someone to put eyes on
My house was built in 1993. It's a 1900 square foot ranch. On the main level the open Kitchen / Dining / Living room is about 1/2 of that level. The basement has a family room that is also open front to back making it about 30 x 25. To accomplish this they used scissor floor joists like in the first house you showed but the rest of the house has a center support and standard joists. There is about a 1" sag, maybe a little less, on the scissor floor v.s the standard floor. Therefore a slight "ramp" in the middle of the kitchen. Is this common? Should I worry about it?
Yes, I would be concerned! It is not likely safety hazard, but I would definitely have a reputable contractor in your area take a look at it.
I will be building a 3 story multi family apartment building . Contemplating what is the better option ?
Floor Trusses
Informative video.. . I'm a truss designer it's a pleasure if I can help in any case of trusses designing
Who's the idiot that stapled the pex to the underside of the secondfloor subfloor? What if in the future a new home owner decides to put hard wood flooring or does some other remodeling and shoots/screws through one of those pex pipes..
😂. Sadly stuff like that is all too common. I’ve always laugh when i see AC lineset running underneath roof sheathing or up walls
Thanks for the comment Dan! The pex tubing in this video is the in-floor heat system, it is common practice to attach it to the underside of the subfloor to get the best heat transfer, though you are correct in that it is more prone to getting hit by a fastener.
The PEX under the sub-floor is radiant heating. But you are right, they are going to have a mighty wet first floor if they ever install hardwoods upstairs. It’s just more modern day short-sighted thinking. Don’t plan for the future. Also, they have radiant heating AND forced air systems. Lets go ahead and install a mini-split while we’re at it…
It's the engineering schools fault that they no longer teach how to build properly but to build for the maximum return of profit!!!
30 ft spans and all that sounds cool, but to me that all means nothing if I can feel the floor bounce with 15 lb dog trotting through the house while I’m sitting on the couch.
You sure it's ONLY a 15 pound dog??? 😂 Doesn't seem to me that a 15 pound dog could do that much, compared to dog of 60-100 pounds. Do you live in a mobile home?
Yep! My little wiener dogs make my floor bounce.
Is the on center of the floor truss 24 inches?
My open floor trusses are sagging 1.75” from the kitchen island with two open concept rooms upstairs and down. Tile has not cracked, for some reason. Feel so defeated.
Ouch. I really feel like the proper engineering and design is not typically done to account for the massive weight of a kitchen island. I recently toured a $700k new build and I could feel the floor sinking around the island. And that was without four stools and four people eating at the island - that could easily be a total of 2500 lbs! I think the orientation of the island is an important consideration as well because that affects how many trusses are supporting the weight.
Ductless Mini Splits!
I've seen a few builders that built their own homes with floor trusses, almost all of them say the floors are "bouncy". I would really like to use them for my basement, since I want to put a home theater in it, but not at the cost of a bouncy floor..
Use some extra blocking
Put strongbacks in the system and increase the depth by one size over what you need for a 40 psf load, and it shouldn't bounce
@@tubulartuberSo you're saying the you have to upgrade the floor system to get acceptable performance... Floor trusses are a scam.
@@Rew123 this method applies for any beam whether they are trusses, I-Joists, solid lumber, LVLs, steel I-beams, etc. go one or two sizes up in depth from what is typically specified and it shouldn't bounce. the deeper the floor structure, the higher the floor vibration frequency, which is desirable because most people find a floor vibration frequency of 7-10 Hz to be annoying. In general a stiffer floor will produce a higher vibration frequency. To prevent callbacks about floor vibration, some rules of thumb are: 1) use a live load of at least 40 psf in calculations 2) increase joist/truss depth by one size 3) glue and screw the sheathing. In floor trusses using strongbacks is important. For TJIs it's trickier, and you probably need to specifically ask the manufacturer how to prevent floor vibration
it's physics, not product-related
I think trusses are garbage to be completely honest. At least if they're the minimum spec, something like L/240. That's 1" of sag in the middle of a 20' span! Plus the bounce people complain about. I do like how open they are which allows the trades to do their thing.
I think the optimal floor probably uses 2x4 trusses, but the maximum span is limited and it's nice and stiff at L/720.
Man I just cant see how these houses are ever going to last. They really just seem like crap to me. Thats speaking as a builder with almost 50 years experience now. I work on old homes. The wood is vastly better. You can just see it plain as day: tight grain, fewer knots, thicker wood. Sure this spiffy new house will have lots of eye candy in it. Fancy appliances, lots of tile. But all the interior trim will be mdf. That shit is absolute crap. One dose of water and its done. The exterior wood is generally all fingerjointed. That stuff comes apart after 25 years. Don’t let the wood products industry tell you about “renewable”. Its not the same materials as 75 years ago. Yes modern homes are bolted down to the foundation, and may have more insulation, but those are things you can do to an older home. Can you just see fire raging through this truss system? I watch a lot of structure fire videos. Seems like the new houses go up pretty fast with all the glues and plastics.
Thanks for the comment Pandejo! What you say is true in some respects, but most homeowners are not able or willing to spend the extra money on old growth timber, tile roofs, exterior stone etc. At J&RS we try to recommend the best materials, but ultimately it is up to the homeowner.
@@jrsbuild based fucking response 🤣🤣🤣💀💀
I kinda wanna use steel trusses.
And steal framing
We'd love to find a project with steel!
J&RS, where are you guys located?
@@clydecox2108 Duluth, MN
Cool I'll be moving to Illinois, probably in the spring.
This was completely useless.. maybe you should include some numbers next time so we understand when using a truss vs a joist is necessary.
Truss lawsuits coming major collapse
This house is a death trap if catches fire. All lightweight construction homes are death traps and firefighter killers and should be banned in every country across the world. Fire Safety should be rule number one in all home construction and firefighters should have more input and final say so when it comes to home construction building materials because their lives on the line for each house fire they respond to and all lightweight construction homes should have warning signs on them and firefighters are not obligated or legally or morally required to enter the home to look for survivors and also require these style of lightweight construction homes to have full fire suppression systems built into the home to make these home built to code.