First off, I want to thank you for this video, it has answered so many questions I have had with my home over the last couple of months. Quick question, in the first set of stairs you shown, the set that is perpendicular to the 2x4 Trusses, what if the stair case was in the middle of the basement? Would that then potentially create two load bearing walls? Thank You in Advance!
Have 1989 16” deep floor trusses cantilevered on a interior dropped header and have a structural engineer planning a ceiling flush header. Plan is to cut out beam notches in lower chords, and up the double vertical blocks (no doubler) just below the upper webbing plates. Although the S. Engineer explained the beam can restore lower chord compression, your thoughts on flush beams with a cantilevered application for an above living space. Thank you.
Always check with the manufacture of the floor trusses first. Some like the open web in this video will need to be modified or ordered specifically for cantilevers.
Greg, I have a woodlot here and so my plan is to cut my own 2x4's and build my own trusses. I can't understand why floor trusses always seem to have 2x4's on the flat, rather then having them on edge to provide more strength. Can you fill me in on this? Is there an issue that I am not seeing? Deeper is cheaper is the mantra we learned in carpentry school, so to have the 2" depth on top and bottom rather then the 4" depth seems counter intuitive to me
If the 2x4 are flat let say 8 inch in between, your joist is more similar to a 4*12 solid timber . If you place the 2*4 vertically, seperated by let say 4 inch so that the truss is 12 inch in eight, than the truss will be comparable to a 2*12 solid timber. The physics reason for this is that the tension applied on a floor beam/truss or whatever is on the top inch and bottom inch, in between it only dead weight, no tension force, which is why I joist or I beam or as strong as a rectangular piece os same dimensions
Greg, Great video. Why does the staircase, when perpendicular to the trusses require a load bearing wall when the parallel version does not? Sorry of this is a silly question.
The floor joist are sitting on the load bearing wall. If the floor joist could be supported a different way, then you would need the load bearing wall. When the stairway runs parallel to the floor joist, then you can usually support the few joist using other joist that would be used to create the stairwell or stair opening. I hope it helps.
Greg, I have a floor plan for a pre-cast foundation rectangle basement 28'-0" x 38'-0" -- I want to clear span the foundation with wood floor trusses (28') (I like your videos). My plan has the stairwell near the center of the floor plan and the stair opening is running parallel with the floor trusses. I plan to have it engineered by the truss maker however I just wanted to get your take and idea on how the opening could be framed. Thanks -- Retired Person
It should be similar to the one in this video. You would have a joist or beam that connected to a double joist on both sides or the stairwell and then the smaller joist should connect to the joist or beams.
You might need a ledger built into the block wall and then use hangers or use some type of post and beam set up on the inside. Let me know if this doesn't answer your question and I did put your video suggestion on a list of videos to be made in the future.
OK here is a concern I have -- Does having that square "chase" area in a floor truss have to be in the center of the span? And second does having a large chase rectangle like this make the floor weaker or bounce ?
I know it looks like you could simply put a few blocks in and everything would work out, but I'm not sure if would be that simple and wouldn't suggest doing it without advice from the product manufacturer or structural engineer.
Can u tell me why my floor is bowl shaped being some 1 1/2” low in the center. Built with 2x4 x24” trusses. Upper floor seems to be wavy. What happened to flat floors. Trusses suppose to be the same. Wtf ??
Not always. Sometimes a 2x4 is run horizontally across the top of the joist as a rim joist. If you keep your deck bolts to the top 3" of the floor truss you should hit blocking or the 2x4 rim tho.
@@GregTGolden thanks. I went and found a house still being built by the same builder who did mine. Unfortunately; no rim board, and no block. So when i do my ledger board for deck I'll just have to hit all the trusses.
Greg, I have similar basement rancher with 18” tall trusses spaced 19” OC and I have terrible bounce on the main level of the home. Spanned about 28 ft across. These are designed for long spans but why am I getting so much bounce and how do I stop it?
If I was you, I would contact the product manufacturer if you know who they are. I'm not a structural engineer and don't think I would be able to provide you with much assistance on this one, because I don't know enough about these types of joist structurally. For example, if it was conventional framing with 2 x 12, I might suggest installing a beam in the middle that runs perpendicular to the joist or installing additional joist in between the existing ones.
Great video Greg. Like the 3D model and the different vantage points and explanations provided. Thanks. My stairwell set-up looks similar to that on 7:08 except it uses conventional lumber and there are no metal brackets holding stuff in place...just nails. Just wondering if that makes a difference. Also, I plan on removing a wall where the guy, in the original email, planed on not constructing one. However hesitant, because maybe it's somehow load bearing? It just seems like a lot of weight distribution is going on to be supported by a doubled up floor joice and additional nails. Any help/ guidance would be appreciated and thanks again for the video.
Sorry for the late response, but for some reason your video got sent into spam. I wouldn't worry about adding additional hardware, if the homes been standing for quite some time and there aren't any problems.
Thanks for this video! Very Helpful...I have been searching for information about girders and/or double trusses. I can't seem to find any concise info about their placement when one is making a roofing plan. The only general rule I can find is geared toward a hipped roof. I am drawing a gable roof where the 2nd level is not exactly the same shape as the 1st level, and need some direction on where to put girders for support. (hope this makes sense!! :)) I would love it if you would do a video about that!
Greg, around 6:05, you can see 1 set of full length doublers is supported by 3 2x6's and the other full length doubler is supported by 5. Just wondering why? Would that be a method for spreading out the load more along the existing foundation to avoid pouring the additional footing?
I was trying to provide viewers with a few different ways that it can be framed, but it's always a good idea to fill the area underneath the floor joist with wall studs or posts. For example if I have a 3 1/2 inch wide floor beam then it would be a good idea to install at least two 2 x 4 wall studs or a 4 x 4 post.
love the video and software. i need to know the exact size of the band joist sections. i have to put 2 inch foam board on them. I guess they vary, right? i did one a long time ago and it seems like the height was 12 inches perhaps they were 12 x 15 just from memory
I believe code has a minimum requirement (2 1/4"?) for the amount of the bottom chord of a truss, that must bear on the top plate. These videos show the trusses finishing flush with the outside of the framing, but what it we have a 'balloon' frame or other consideration that would push the truss back to say, half way across the 2x6 top plate? I've always used 2 1/4" but is that documented? Rather than a wood top plate, the truss might be bearing on a Concrete Masonry Unit. (block)
You would need to check with your local building department to verify this information, but most of the time for single-family residential home, the minimum is 36 inches.
I hear from every source how these are specially designed and all, but what exactly goes into designing them? Ex: what calculations or parameters are involved? That's the information a DIY would need to know to do it properly. It's not always feasible to transport these premade if you don't have a long trailer so it's easier to build them on site or even in situ, especially if working alone and can't lift them.
It makes no sense that a floor truss would be fine at a certain span, but questionable if cut to a shorter length where you've maintained the same structural pattern.
@@Heraclitean If you're asking for my opinion, then they are usually designed for a specific length and if modified an any way, then it could cause the product to fail. Maybe you can check with the product manufactures if the word engineer doesn't work for you.
@@gregvancom I'm curious about the engineering logic. "Designed for a specific length" doesn't tell me anything. If I say 4 legs under a table are fine, but adding a 5th under the center might weaken the table, you'd be right to raise an eyebrow, because it doesn't make sense.
@@Heraclitean There is another engineering video that talks about the build of trusses. It's something along the lines of the truss connector plates connecting the components of the truss - and how many notches embedded in the wood is partially or completely dependent on the length of the truss and the other truss connector plates available to spread the weight. So, if you have a truss connector plate at point A notched for a 12' span to distribute the weight, then you cut that 12' span to 10' feet, now the truss connector plate, A, has to bear more weight than it was notched for, as do all the other truss connector plates remaining, and the truss could break at the plate. Every metal plate in a truss is selected and notched based on the expectation that the other boards, plates, and notches will be available to accomodate that weight. As soon as you alter one piece of the design, you throw off the weight distribution for every other piece and weaken the whole thing.
This was super helpful! I appreciate you showing the issues when the stairs are put in different directions to the trusses. 👍🙏🇨🇦
You are so welcome!
Extremely helpful. Thank you very much
You're welcome!
First off, I want to thank you for this video, it has answered so many questions I have had with my home over the last couple of months. Quick question, in the first set of stairs you shown, the set that is perpendicular to the 2x4 Trusses, what if the stair case was in the middle of the basement? Would that then potentially create two load bearing walls? Thank You in Advance!
Have 1989 16” deep floor trusses cantilevered on a interior dropped header and have a structural engineer planning a ceiling flush header. Plan is to cut out beam notches in lower chords, and up the double vertical blocks (no doubler) just below the upper webbing plates. Although the S. Engineer explained the beam can restore lower chord compression, your thoughts on flush beams with a cantilevered application for an above living space. Thank you.
This could be tricky and since I'm not an engineer, I won't be much help. You could always contact a truss manufacture for more information also.
What's a safe span to truss depth ratio? Planning to use light gauge c section steel for joists and rafters.
What if you were building a 2 level house and the stairway wasnt enclosed, but the main floor was on a stem wall instead of slab on grade?
Very helpful thank you!
You're welcome!
what if the stairs are U shape in the the middle of the house? would it still be the same framing method but on all sides of the stairwell?
Most of the time, yes. They use double joist all the way around the stairwell.
Hello good day, luv your informational videos an insight. Can I cantilever a balcony with floor truss ?
Always check with the manufacture of the floor trusses first. Some like the open web in this video will need to be modified or ordered specifically for cantilevers.
Do we need to apply any stair load on the girder truss
Engineering should always be considered.
Greg, I have a woodlot here and so my plan is to cut my own 2x4's and build my own trusses. I can't understand why floor trusses always seem to have 2x4's on the flat, rather then having them on edge to provide more strength. Can you fill me in on this? Is there an issue that I am not seeing? Deeper is cheaper is the mantra we learned in carpentry school, so to have the 2" depth on top and bottom rather then the 4" depth seems counter intuitive to me
If the 2x4 are flat let say 8 inch in between, your joist is more similar to a 4*12 solid timber .
If you place the 2*4 vertically, seperated by let say 4 inch so that the truss is 12 inch in eight, than the truss will be comparable to a 2*12 solid timber.
The physics reason for this is that the tension applied on a floor beam/truss or whatever is on the top inch and bottom inch, in between it only dead weight, no tension force, which is why I joist or I beam or as strong as a rectangular piece os same dimensions
Greg, Great video. Why does the staircase, when perpendicular to the trusses require a load bearing wall when the parallel version does not? Sorry of this is a silly question.
The floor joist are sitting on the load bearing wall. If the floor joist could be supported a different way, then you would need the load bearing wall. When the stairway runs parallel to the floor joist, then you can usually support the few joist using other joist that would be used to create the stairwell or stair opening. I hope it helps.
Interesting, and even though trivial concept, dont cut the truss, I've actually never thought, about the future need to move stairs, etc.
Oh yeah!
Greg, I have a floor plan for a pre-cast foundation rectangle basement 28'-0" x 38'-0" -- I want to clear span the foundation with wood floor trusses (28') (I like your videos). My plan has the stairwell near the center of the floor plan and the stair opening is running parallel with the floor trusses. I plan to have it engineered by the truss maker however I just wanted to get your take and idea on how the opening could be framed. Thanks -- Retired Person
It should be similar to the one in this video. You would have a joist or beam that connected to a double joist on both sides or the stairwell and then the smaller joist should connect to the joist or beams.
Hi nice video, is there any different to install floor truss on block house for a 2 floor ? thanks
You might need a ledger built into the block wall and then use hangers or use some type of post and beam set up on the inside. Let me know if this doesn't answer your question and I did put your video suggestion on a list of videos to be made in the future.
OK here is a concern I have -- Does having that square "chase" area in a floor truss have to be in the center of the span? And second does having a large chase rectangle like this make the floor weaker or bounce ?
As long as they were built that way, then it should be good. If someone removed something, then it could be weaker.
Great Video...Can one retrofit by adding a stairwell to open ceiling basement? You stressed that trusses cannot be cut? Is this possible? How? Thanks
I know it looks like you could simply put a few blocks in and everything would work out, but I'm not sure if would be that simple and wouldn't suggest doing it without advice from the product manufacturer or structural engineer.
You need a plied at plant floor girder truss for the doubler
Can u tell me why my floor is bowl shaped being some 1 1/2” low in the center. Built with 2x4 x24” trusses. Upper floor seems to be wavy. What happened to flat floors. Trusses suppose to be the same. Wtf ??
Not really, because I don't know what's going on. Truss failures like yours can be caused from excessive weight or improperly sized materials.
Great video! Thanks.
Question for anyone that knows; Is there always blocks between the trusses? And can you attach deck ledger to blocks?
Not always. Sometimes a 2x4 is run horizontally across the top of the joist as a rim joist. If you keep your deck bolts to the top 3" of the floor truss you should hit blocking or the 2x4 rim tho.
@@GregTGolden thanks. I went and found a house still being built by the same builder who did mine. Unfortunately; no rim board, and no block. So when i do my ledger board for deck I'll just have to hit all the trusses.
Strictly curiosity,
In your diagram, 16 or 24 oc spacing?
All my designs are 12' spans so tji's are perfect.
But just curious 😊.
👍On presentation.
16 inches
Greg, I have similar basement rancher with 18” tall trusses spaced 19” OC and I have terrible bounce on the main level of the home. Spanned about 28 ft across. These are designed for long spans but why am I getting so much bounce and how do I stop it?
If I was you, I would contact the product manufacturer if you know who they are. I'm not a structural engineer and don't think I would be able to provide you with much assistance on this one, because I don't know enough about these types of joist structurally. For example, if it was conventional framing with 2 x 12, I might suggest installing a beam in the middle that runs perpendicular to the joist or installing additional joist in between the existing ones.
Great video Greg. Like the 3D model and the different vantage points and explanations provided. Thanks. My stairwell set-up looks similar to that on 7:08 except it uses conventional lumber and there are no metal brackets holding stuff in place...just nails. Just wondering if that makes a difference. Also, I plan on removing a wall where the guy, in the original email, planed on not constructing one. However hesitant, because maybe it's somehow load bearing? It just seems like a lot of weight distribution is going on to be supported by a doubled up floor joice and additional nails. Any help/ guidance would be appreciated and thanks again for the video.
Sorry for the late response, but for some reason your video got sent into spam. I wouldn't worry about adding additional hardware, if the homes been standing for quite some time and there aren't any problems.
in this wolrd we need people like you
Thanks for the nice comments, there always appreciated.
Thanks for this video! Very Helpful...I have been searching for information about girders and/or double trusses. I can't seem to find any concise info about their placement when one is making a roofing plan. The only general rule I can find is geared toward a hipped roof. I am drawing a gable roof where the 2nd level is not exactly the same shape as the 1st level, and need some direction on where to put girders for support. (hope this makes sense!! :)) I would love it if you would do a video about that!
You might need to contact a structural engineer for that information.
@@gregvancom Do they need the interior beam wall
Greg, around 6:05, you can see 1 set of full length doublers is supported by 3 2x6's and the other full length doubler is supported by 5. Just wondering why? Would that be a method for spreading out the load more along the existing foundation to avoid pouring the additional footing?
I was trying to provide viewers with a few different ways that it can be framed, but it's always a good idea to fill the area underneath the floor joist with wall studs or posts. For example if I have a 3 1/2 inch wide floor beam then it would be a good idea to install at least two 2 x 4 wall studs or a 4 x 4 post.
Gotcha! Thanks for the explanation and another great video!
You're welcome and thanks for supporting our channel by watching our videos.
love the video and software. i need to know the exact size of the band joist sections. i have to put 2 inch foam board on them. I guess they vary, right? i did one a long time ago and it seems like the height was 12 inches perhaps they were 12 x 15 just from memory
They come in a variety of different sizes, so I don't think I would be able to provide you with what you're looking for.
I believe code has a minimum requirement (2 1/4"?) for the amount of the bottom chord of a truss, that must bear on the top plate. These videos show the trusses finishing flush with the outside of the framing, but what it we have a 'balloon' frame or other consideration that would push the truss back to say, half way across the 2x6 top plate? I've always used 2 1/4" but is that documented? Rather than a wood top plate, the truss might be bearing on a Concrete Masonry Unit. (block)
Check manufacturer documentation
Thank you. Makes a lot of sense.
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
How big does the opening have to be for a stair case.
You would need to check with your local building department to verify this information, but most of the time for single-family residential home, the minimum is 36 inches.
i like your videos they are very very. instructional
thanks greg ! Youre the man !
You're welcome and for the enthusiastic comment.
Don't worry about repeating... go ahead and repeat... people don't listen as well as they think they do... ;-)
Repetition is often the key to learning.
I hear from every source how these are specially designed and all, but what exactly goes into designing them? Ex: what calculations or parameters are involved? That's the information a DIY would need to know to do it properly. It's not always feasible to transport these premade if you don't have a long trailer so it's easier to build them on site or even in situ, especially if working alone and can't lift them.
I don't recommend making your own open web joist.
great video tnkyou very much
It makes no sense that a floor truss would be fine at a certain span, but questionable if cut to a shorter length where you've maintained the same structural pattern.
Check with an engineer before cutting.
@@gregvancom How about address the comment.
@@Heraclitean If you're asking for my opinion, then they are usually designed for a specific length and if modified an any way, then it could cause the product to fail. Maybe you can check with the product manufactures if the word engineer doesn't work for you.
@@gregvancom I'm curious about the engineering logic. "Designed for a specific length" doesn't tell me anything. If I say 4 legs under a table are fine, but adding a 5th under the center might weaken the table, you'd be right to raise an eyebrow, because it doesn't make sense.
@@Heraclitean There is another engineering video that talks about the build of trusses. It's something along the lines of the truss connector plates connecting the components of the truss - and how many notches embedded in the wood is partially or completely dependent on the length of the truss and the other truss connector plates available to spread the weight. So, if you have a truss connector plate at point A notched for a 12' span to distribute the weight, then you cut that 12' span to 10' feet, now the truss connector plate, A, has to bear more weight than it was notched for, as do all the other truss connector plates remaining, and the truss could break at the plate. Every metal plate in a truss is selected and notched based on the expectation that the other boards, plates, and notches will be available to accomodate that weight. As soon as you alter one piece of the design, you throw off the weight distribution for every other piece and weaken the whole thing.
The floor trusses are 4×2 not 2×4
Some are 6x2 or 2x6:)
waoo God bless you
There is NO god, period.
Dareis Nogod that’s kinda uncalled for