This is a good video. But numerous comments were made over the years something like "but where do you hook up the wires inside?". Here's some really simple directions. If running DC (not DCC) then you will hook up to track voltage. But LEDs are bipolar unlike an incandescent bulb so if you just did that the LED would light up for loco travel in one direction only. You need to add a bridge rectifier between the track and the LED. Connect the positive output of the rectifier to the red wires and the negative to the black wires. Don't forget the resistors. Google it. If using DCC the red wire of all of the LEDs connects to the positive/common/blue wire or terminal on the decoder. The black wire of the forward headlight connects to the white wire on the decoder and the black wire of the rear headlight connects to the yellow wire on the decoder. Some decoders have built in resistors. Read the decoder manual.
Kick-Ass video!! I've been killing myself using fiber optics. That can be a pain bending and heating. Awesome how-to video!! I'm getting started on my locomotives soon as my leds come in!!!
Good demo, but the inner wiring is important. They got pre soldered resistors on LED's now. The red wire/w resistor to the power/red and the black to the ground, usually the front truck of the engine or frame. Different resistors will give you brighter or lower intensity light or color, fun to work with and the results very satisfying.
Greetings Spazman, just watched your video on the install of LED's into the CN loco. This is very good and straight forward. I watched NSmodeler also and you two have the best instructions on "How-To". I've subscribed to your channel and can't wait to see more of what you have to offer the modeling world. Thanks D. Muse (WTCMRR)
Burlington Northern Modeler I don't think they're ignorant per say, a lot of people don't understand wiring and that's fine. I just never got around to making the second video, and should do that soon.
That was splendid, NICE, I know my SD 80s and SD 90s Kato locos have a long plastic bar that the lights run thru. I thought that was wired, anyways great video THANKS FOR THIS WITH ME 👌✌️👍💯
Great video! I'm not very well versed in "UA-cam" and I'd like to know how to view your follow up video on installing the controllers and speakers. Thank you.
Great video. Thanks. Now, I'm trying unsuccessfully to find your followup video on Installing the LokSound Select Direct and Speaker (as mentioned at the end of this video). Did you not make a video in the end? -Chris
I'm trying to use LEDs with a Tsunami 1 decoder for the headlights. The output of this decoder's F0 solder tabs are 1.5 volts. My LEDs will not illuminate when connected to these solder pads on the board, however they illuminate fine using an external 1.5 DC power source on the workbench, as you demonstrate in this video. The solder tabs on the board are indeed "hot" at 1.5 volts when FO is cycled, front and rear. I am aware of correct polarity for the LEDs. Why will the LEDs not light from the decoder board? Many thanks.
The LED's will not work at 1.5v. The power in the video is supplied by 2 AA batteries in series, making 3v. The Tsunami decoder should have a 12v output available; use this, along with a 2.2k ohm resistor.
@@MotownModels Thank you so much for your reply. My LEDs will light just fine at 1.5 volts from a DC powerpack I have on my workbench. This is why I don't understand why they won't light being fed by the 1.5 volts available at the decoder's headlight pads. And yes, I agree that it's odd the Tsunami only delivers 1.5 volts (confirmed by my VOM) - it's an early 2012 Tsunami designed for Athearn locos originally fitted with 1.5 grain of rice lamps. As an experiment I connected my LED directly to the decoder's outputs with no resistor in series. This should have immediately fried my LED. The LED did not get zapped, proving to me there's only 1.5 volts at the decoder's output. Any further expertise from you wold be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
@@davidhughes4448 I will investigate a bit more and let you know. In the mean time, send me an email at tom@motownmodels.com , and we can continue the conversation there.
Hi. I have a question for you . I installed a led light on a ho locomotive, it works well when moving forward and goes out when reversing (normal) but it flashes...why? THANKS
Can you tell me about installing LEDs in a Rivarossi locomotive circa 1975....That's right, a locomotive whose power feeds through the tender, that's over forty years old. I have a few, actually. I want to convert them, but need to consult an expert first. So here I am. Can you tell me what I need to do? Cheers!
I was a bit alarmed when you said wire them in parallel and not in series. If they "never" burn out, then chances are you won't have a problem. My understanding is when one of the bulbs does fail, all the amps going through the resistor and then split up "evenly" across both LEDs not burning them both out. With one bulb down, everything will go across the remaining LED. My reading of LEDs is always put them in series so when one fails, the other LEDs are protected from excessive current. My decoder (digitrex) has 12v out of the decoder for these kinds of applications (why you need the resistor). The fear of having that much current going across the remaining LED should be noted. The "best practice" for wiring LEDs is "always" in series. Also, wiring them in parallel does not allow you to "blink" your ditch lights as you come to a road crossing or other area where you are to give greater warning to silly humans that a locomotive is about to wreck your day. Even in series you cannot do alternate blink the lights. This makes connecting them to the decoder that much more interesting.
@@mtler8609In case someone stumbles across this old thread I will correct your post. The voltage drop across a white LED is approximately 3 volts. If you place more than one in parallel the drop across the group is still 3 volts. Let's say you use a 1K resistor as I do and the supply voltage is 14 volts. Then the drop across the resistor is 14 -3 = 11 volts. By ohms law the current through the resistor is then 11/1000 =11 ma. Since the parallel group of LEDs is in series with the resistor the same current flows through the LED group but is divided (hopefully equally) amongst each. So each LED gets 5.5 ma. If one burns out the other now gets 11 ma which will not harm it. It is better to run the LEDs in series so that each gets exactly the same current. In this example 2 LEDs in series will have a 6 volt drop. Thus the voltage across the resistor would be 14 - 6= 8 volts and the current would thus be 8 ma flowing through both LEDs. So in this example you would actually get more brightness using the series circuit. If one burns out both would go dark. LEDs rarely fail however.
My issue I've ordered plenty of LEDs. I have at least 100 locos desiels and steam. Now. My issue is. These LEDs only work 1 way. Haven't upgraded to dcc yet. Have I MRC commander and the 2000 to make the set. I noticed when I hooked up the LEDs that they only work when going in one direction. Forward. I switch over to reverse they shut off. I'm not much of an electronic genius. I started soldering car stereo amps. Replacing mosfets. Now trains. So what would I do to change this would I have to put additional lights just for the back or reverse?
If not using dcc. You hook them up accordingly to the power on the motor. But I noticed that you only get power going in forward shut off in reverse. Haven't figured it out yet. How to keep lights on when switching direction.
Also don't know if you know. But tin wires first with soldier. That way you use as little heat as possible to join them together and it won't melt any plastic in progress.
@@johnramirez5996 A bridge rectifier will fix the directional issue. There is a video covering that on UA-cam. I watched it yesterday, but I don't remember who posted it.
@@petehorton7419 Thanx. Figured it out. Also been buying and building cpl DCC. Found a digitrax controller cheap. Less than $80 in box. Wish I had a whole room. Lol. Just went for walk in GR Mich and bought another train w/caboose. A d d.and a d.h.d. gets the best of me again.lol.
My big question is this. I always thought L.E.D. bulbs are polarized. Are these bulbs polorized? If so they should only work when the train runs in one direction. As soon as you reverse direction you are reversing polarity of the track.
Yes, LEDs only work with the current going in one direction (that's the "diode" part of "light-emitting diode"). Presumably, the DCC decoder always sends the current te same way.
Hey. Great video. May I ask about the second wagon pulled by the CP 9542 ? Which type of wagon is it (perhaps for cars transportation?) and in H0 scale by which firm is made? Thanks a lot.
Depends on what you're wiring the lights to. If you're running normal DC, yes. If you have a DCC decoder without built in resistors, yes. If the decoder you're using has resistors built in, just use those.
You can get them for $3 on eBay for 10 or 20 depending on who has them. Pre wired with resistor. I use the same ones to wire my bridge like the bridge in Nashville going down town to printers alley. You can't miss this beautiful structure coming down I-65 after you pass Titans stadium
what about all the excess wiring , where in the loco do you put that , also I did not see a resistor installed. a 3 volt led will not last long when the loco is going around the track. and where on the loco did you connect the wires to. you just had the wires connected to a power source outside the loco to show the lights working. you only showed half of the procedure. thumbs down. I changed the lights on two dc locos to led s and there are a few sizes and different mcd values to consider .
0011clem raptor That completely depends on what power source you're using. Your setup will be different if you're running a specific kind of decoder, straight DC, etc. Of course a resistor has to be soldered on. What's an MCD value?
mcd = milllicandela , light intensity .. over here you can get a few different mcd values of LED s . I am using a 5mm white 5000 mcd for the headlight , and a red 5 mmm 3800 mcd for the taillight. both with resistors of course.
Nice video, but you pronounce the name of the decoder with a long "O" as in the word "low". It's a decoder to make the sound of a "locomotive" (as in steam), not the sound of a "locker" (as in gym).
Not 100% informative except for the making the led with lense part. These will need to be wired into the decoder aux power and will require a resistor to be placed in the wire circuit ( I place mine at the start of the series). Alternatively you can buy a decoder that actually has places for the leads to these various lights already built in and can then be assigned to a function button on your DCC controller (Best and easiest method as the resistance is usually already built into the decoder for this, but do confirm that it does).
You solder the wires and... you're done?!?!?! Thumbs down for a partial video explanation! First part--GREAT! And it's been 3 yrs since you posted this... and you haven't 'finished' it? C'mon!
@@MotownModels There doesn't need to be a "Part 2". You just need to "revise and complete" the original. And, I am not the only person who gave you high marks for the beginning but were disappointed with how you left stuff out. Suit yourself...
Guess that is not honest, because your video is not about ANY, but DCC only. Try do the same for DC Locomotive, it would be much harder not to damage LED.
@@MotownModels that works with DCC perfectly, with DC mode that could be a problem because motor work easily broke LED after some time... This problem is well known more than 15 years.
@@Alexander_Sth I don't understand. How can a motor break an LED? You're just applying a voltage to an LED, it's even more simple than DCC. Manufacturers use LED's in quite literally all new model trains being made today, and they last longer than bulbs.
@@MotownModels I guess because motor produce reverse pulsations from motor coils, also perhaps because motor can work as generator (back-EMF). Also, you change polarity which LED doesn’t like. All of that usually take care DCC decoder, but with DC you need to take care with yourself. Otherwise, while motor running LED could flicker or even get damage. You can look theme: “Directional lighting using LED's and DC- is it possible?” “LEDs in DC Locomotives” “LED Lok-Fahrlicht wechselseitig flackert“ Take a look there: “reverse voltages” “I would still put a "normal" diode in series if doing this as the PIV (Peak Inverse Voltage) ie the maximum reverse voltage the LED can stop is not great on most LEDs and they can get degraded and/or fail.” The problem that many modelers make a lot of idea how to save LED with diodes, capacitor and so on, but for 20 years yet I didn’t see one common standard variant for that. "Manufacturers use LED's in quite literally all new model trains" Yes they are, but we need to see which components they use in motherboard of DC locomotive for them.
Good solution to the wiring issues is to use a 21-pin Decoder of your choice and a Decoder Buddy. It was made for Spazman’s Atlas locomotive with QSI frustration decoder but will fit into a lot of locomotives that are being upgraded or updated. It comes with resistors for LEDs, and there are models for bulbs and locomotives with resistors already installed in line. The Decoder Buddy is a versatile socket for your 21-pin Decoder. It has soldering pads on the motherboard for both pairs of track wires, speakers on either end, motor, and stay alive of your choice. It has a detachable small connector board for 8 matched identical lighting outputs. Take a look at www.nixtrainz.com for more information.
This is a good video. But numerous comments were made over the years something like "but where do you hook up the wires inside?". Here's some really simple directions.
If running DC (not DCC) then you will hook up to track voltage. But LEDs are bipolar unlike an incandescent bulb so if you just did that the LED would light up for loco travel in one direction only. You need to add a bridge rectifier between the track and the LED. Connect the positive output of the rectifier to the red wires and the negative to the black wires. Don't forget the resistors. Google it.
If using DCC the red wire of all of the LEDs connects to the positive/common/blue wire or terminal on the decoder. The black wire of the forward headlight connects to the white wire on the decoder and the black wire of the rear headlight connects to the yellow wire on the decoder. Some decoders have built in resistors. Read the decoder manual.
Yea to be fair it's half a video. Would be good to see how to power them once inside the loco.
@b9y Im thinking maybe a mini lip battery inside? Maybe he hooked them up to a DCC decoder.
Kick-Ass video!! I've been killing myself using fiber optics. That can be a pain bending and heating. Awesome how-to video!! I'm getting started on my locomotives soon as my leds come in!!!
great video how did you power them in the engine thanks
These leds are cheaper then the ones I used. Bought some of them and will try it out! Thanks for the great vid!
Thanks for watching!
Good demo, but the inner wiring is important. They got pre soldered resistors on LED's now. The red wire/w resistor to the power/red and the black to the ground, usually the front truck of the engine or frame. Different resistors will give you brighter or lower intensity light or color, fun to work with and the results very satisfying.
Greetings Spazman, just watched your video on the install of LED's into the CN loco. This is very good and straight forward. I watched NSmodeler also and you two have the best instructions on "How-To". I've subscribed to your channel and can't wait to see more of what you have to offer the modeling world. Thanks D. Muse (WTCMRR)
Thanks a lot Dave! Much appreciated.
Thanks! Love the intro, very different and amazing. Great install video as well!
I do this to all my DCC installs now. Thank you for this great video. So many ignorant comments of people who can't figure out how to do basic wiring.
Burlington Northern Modeler I don't think they're ignorant per say, a lot of people don't understand wiring and that's fine. I just never got around to making the second video, and should do that soon.
Thank uou for the tip on installing LEDs with lens. I would really like this better if you added links to all the parts you used. Thanks again.
Can you explain where to weld LED on the motherboard . Thank you very much my friend I like your video
Awesome spazman! Thanks for the VERY useful how-to's....great techniques!
great instructional video. Some cool ideas I hadn't thought of.
Thanks!
That was splendid, NICE, I know my SD 80s and SD 90s Kato locos have a long plastic bar that the lights run thru. I thought that was wired, anyways great video THANKS FOR THIS WITH ME 👌✌️👍💯
Great video! I'm not very well versed in "UA-cam" and I'd like to know how to view your follow up video on installing the controllers and speakers. Thank you.
What a great video! Well made and very educational thank you
Thanks for posting, funny as all this time Ive tried my best to keep any CA off the LED.
Seems to be just fine gluing it directly to the lens.
WCR
Yup it comes out fine! If you use accelerator, you don't get any bad effects (like crazing/turning white).
Great video. It looks pretty simple.
Yeah, it really is!
Thanks that was amazing and looks not too hard. Working on a UP SD40-2 and about to get to those, bought some LEDs on ebay but they were much larger.
Yup it's really easy. Thanks!
what are the ends of the wire connected to under the shell of locomotive
Great video. Thanks.
Now, I'm trying unsuccessfully to find your followup video on Installing the LokSound Select Direct and Speaker (as mentioned at the end of this video). Did you not make a video in the end? -Chris
Are different colored class lights available for these installations ? Great tutorial
Well done
Look awesome! Nice work! Braedan
Thanks Braedan!
Great video my friend.
Thanks Chris!
Really cool any tips on marker lights on steam locos and I will be converting all my locos with those lights and lenses XD
Unless you can fit these nano LED's in there, I'd use fiber optics. I may have to make a video like that!
Thanks appreciate the feedback
Must be a Union Man didn't show unhooking and taking the old ones off or hooking the new ones up in which would have helpful for the new guys.
Essentially done? So you must run around the track with your engine while holding the wires to batteries.
haha!....some info missing there huh..tht was funny
I'm trying to use LEDs with a Tsunami 1 decoder for the headlights. The output of this decoder's F0 solder tabs are 1.5 volts. My LEDs will not illuminate when connected to these solder pads on the board, however they illuminate fine using an external 1.5 DC power source on the workbench, as you demonstrate in this video. The solder tabs on the board are indeed "hot" at 1.5 volts when FO is cycled, front and rear. I am aware of correct polarity for the LEDs. Why will the LEDs not light from the decoder board? Many thanks.
The LED's will not work at 1.5v. The power in the video is supplied by 2 AA batteries in series, making 3v. The Tsunami decoder should have a 12v output available; use this, along with a 2.2k ohm resistor.
@@MotownModels Thank you so much for your reply. My LEDs will light just fine at 1.5 volts from a DC powerpack I have on my workbench. This is why I don't understand why they won't light being fed by the 1.5 volts available at the decoder's headlight pads. And yes, I agree that it's odd the Tsunami only delivers 1.5 volts (confirmed by my VOM) - it's an early 2012 Tsunami designed for Athearn locos originally fitted with 1.5 grain of rice lamps. As an experiment I connected my LED directly to the decoder's outputs with no resistor in series. This should have immediately fried my LED. The LED did not get zapped, proving to me there's only 1.5 volts at the decoder's output.
Any further expertise from you wold be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
@@davidhughes4448 I will investigate a bit more and let you know. In the mean time, send me an email at tom@motownmodels.com , and we can continue the conversation there.
Nice!
Wish the shells on my Atlas came off that easy.....
Soo...what are the resistors for? My train uses 0-12v so wont this make them not last forever? I will trade the intro for how you wired them up.
thanks my friend!!!!
Great video! Which LEDs did you order off eBay?
link is in the video description. Thanks!
im really liking this vid as im using the same LEDs in some O & Ho scale equipment,, but my only question is; how do you strip the insulation?
Awesome intro! Great video!
Thanks!
Got resistors with the led, you never used them, what did you hook the led to as a power source.
Were these LED bulbs preresisted?
Hi. I have a question for you . I installed a led light on a ho locomotive, it works well when moving forward and goes out when reversing (normal) but it flashes...why? THANKS
I don't know, that's not enough information to really have a proper diagnosis. DCC?
Amazing video!! What was the song throughout the video?
Resistor? Did the decoder pull down the voltage and amperage enough to preclude the need for a resistor?
you need a resistor with LED's, most white LED's run at 3V
@@MotownModels thanks, I likely missed that in the video.
So, how do you power them in a DC locomotive?
What color do you use for headlights?
No explanation for how to power or wire them?
Can you tell me about installing LEDs in a Rivarossi locomotive circa 1975....That's right, a locomotive whose power feeds through the tender, that's over forty years old. I have a few, actually. I want to convert them, but need to consult an expert first. So here I am. Can you tell me what I need to do? Cheers!
Would these be good for steam locos too?
Those 1/4 or 1/2 Watt resistors bro? How many OHMs? Thanks for your help.
They're 1/4 Watt, 2K (2000). If you use more than 2 in parallel you may have to go to a 1K.
Thank you. 2K-Wow. I use 1K for LEDs on DC locos and seems to be the same brightness.
I was a bit alarmed when you said wire them in parallel and not in series. If they "never" burn out, then chances are you won't have a problem. My understanding is when one of the bulbs does fail, all the amps going through the resistor and then split up "evenly" across both LEDs not burning them both out. With one bulb down, everything will go across the remaining LED.
My reading of LEDs is always put them in series so when one fails, the other LEDs are protected from excessive current. My decoder (digitrex) has 12v out of the decoder for these kinds of applications (why you need the resistor). The fear of having that much current going across the remaining LED should be noted. The "best practice" for wiring LEDs is "always" in series.
Also, wiring them in parallel does not allow you to "blink" your ditch lights as you come to a road crossing or other area where you are to give greater warning to silly humans that a locomotive is about to wreck your day. Even in series you cannot do alternate blink the lights. This makes connecting them to the decoder that much more interesting.
@@mtler8609In case someone stumbles across this old thread I will correct your post. The voltage drop across a white LED is approximately 3 volts. If you place more than one in parallel the drop across the group is still 3 volts. Let's say you use a 1K resistor as I do and the supply voltage is 14 volts. Then the drop across the resistor is 14 -3 = 11 volts. By ohms law the current through the resistor is then 11/1000 =11 ma. Since the parallel group of LEDs is in series with the resistor the same current flows through the LED group but is divided (hopefully equally) amongst each. So each LED gets 5.5 ma. If one burns out the other now gets 11 ma which will not harm it. It is better to run the LEDs in series so that each gets exactly the same current. In this example 2 LEDs in series will have a 6 volt drop. Thus the voltage across the resistor would be 14 - 6= 8 volts and the current would thus be 8 ma flowing through both LEDs. So in this example you would actually get more brightness using the series circuit. If one burns out both would go dark. LEDs rarely fail however.
My issue I've ordered plenty of LEDs. I have at least 100 locos desiels and steam. Now. My issue is. These LEDs only work 1 way. Haven't upgraded to dcc yet. Have I MRC commander and the 2000 to make the set. I noticed when I hooked up the LEDs that they only work when going in one direction. Forward. I switch over to reverse they shut off. I'm not much of an electronic genius. I started soldering car stereo amps. Replacing mosfets. Now trains. So what would I do to change this would I have to put additional lights just for the back or reverse?
How did you wire those batteries to test the LEDs
How do you attach the wires to the engine to make the lights come on.
I'm new at this. Where do you connect the wires after you twisted them together?
If not using dcc. You hook them up accordingly to the power on the motor. But I noticed that you only get power going in forward shut off in reverse. Haven't figured it out yet. How to keep lights on when switching direction.
Also don't know if you know. But tin wires first with soldier. That way you use as little heat as possible to join them together and it won't melt any plastic in progress.
@@johnramirez5996 A bridge rectifier will fix the directional issue. There is a video covering that on UA-cam. I watched it yesterday, but I don't remember who posted it.
@@petehorton7419 Thanx. Figured it out. Also been buying and building cpl DCC. Found a digitrax controller cheap. Less than $80 in box. Wish I had a whole room. Lol. Just went for walk in GR Mich and bought another train w/caboose. A d d.and a d.h.d. gets the best of me again.lol.
noice vid man...
Thanks!
What no diodes? The wiring instructions are where on this video?
Thx
Is there a video on how to install a LED red light for The Polar Express Train observation train?
Would I be able to do this with an old model train? (it's over 10 years)
Matthew Yakimowsky Yes
Lmao love the intro, that earned my sub!
Nice intro
My big question is this. I always thought L.E.D. bulbs are polarized. Are these bulbs polorized? If so they should only work when the train runs in one direction. As soon as you reverse direction you are reversing polarity of the track.
Yes, LEDs only work with the current going in one direction (that's the "diode" part of "light-emitting diode"). Presumably, the DCC decoder always sends the current te same way.
I made a really bad mistake when wiring up a sound decoder to the lights and I didn't have resistors and all the lights blew out.
Hi, what kind of glue are you using?? thanks.
I use medium thickness CA (super glue) for just about everything.
Hey. Great video. May I ask about the second wagon pulled by the CP 9542 ? Which type of wagon is it (perhaps for cars transportation?) and in H0 scale by which firm is made? Thanks a lot.
Yes, it's an autorack. Lots of manufacturers make HO-scale models of them.
How do you make directional lighting
where did you get your pin vise set?
Kyle Christopherson Just my local hobby shop.
what model is the 4623? nice intro!
It's a Kaslo Shops Dash 8-40CM, I have a video of it on the channel.
A M No, it is not.
what is it?
great video, who's the intro music from?
Oh, and how did you wire the leds inside the model, etc. otherwise this video is useless to beginners.
Do you not need the resistors?
Depends on what you're wiring the lights to. If you're running normal DC, yes. If you have a DCC decoder without built in resistors, yes. If the decoder you're using has resistors built in, just use those.
Thanks
what's the voltage for Engine Leds???
JD fanatic Most LED's. including these, operate off 3V. Use a 2000 ohm resistor if you're using them in a locomotive.
spazman13579 Thank u sir
What’s the intro song
What is the name of the LEDs ?
You can get them for $3 on eBay for 10 or 20 depending on who has them. Pre wired with resistor. I use the same ones to wire my bridge like the bridge in Nashville going down town to printers alley. You can't miss this beautiful structure coming down I-65 after you pass Titans stadium
where do you get the 341 lenses?
you can buy the LED's pre assembled here www.motownmodels.com/shop/nano-leds
Bit useless since you didnt show how to actually wire them up.
Captaintoast12321 you're a piece of toast you have no hands to wire anything
Riiiight.
WHAT!?!?!?!?!?!?
how do I know if my decoder has resistors?
Were did you get the train and the other material ?
how about the hookup ?
You should change the cp plow to yellow and black to match 777 after it was repainted
what about all the excess wiring , where in the loco do you put that , also I did not see a resistor installed. a 3 volt led will not last long when the loco is going around the track. and where on the loco did you connect the wires to. you just had the wires connected to a power source outside the loco to show the lights working. you only showed half of the procedure. thumbs down. I changed the lights on two dc locos to led s and there are a few sizes and different mcd values to consider .
0011clem raptor That completely depends on what power source you're using. Your setup will be different if you're running a specific kind of decoder, straight DC, etc. Of course a resistor has to be soldered on. What's an MCD value?
mcd = milllicandela , light intensity .. over here you can get a few different mcd values of LED s . I am using a 5mm white 5000 mcd for the headlight , and a red 5 mmm 3800 mcd for the taillight. both with resistors of course.
Maybe you should do a video. Gotta be better than BIG Al Mayo's...
A bit useless without showing where the 6 lights get their power on the loco
Henry Dunsmore It's not that hard to do some research and figure out how to connect them to a decoder
Nice video, but you pronounce the name of the decoder with a long "O" as in the word "low". It's a decoder to make the sound of a "locomotive" (as in steam), not the sound of a "locker" (as in gym).
George W. Meyer I literally had no idea the pronunciation of the word "decoder" would entice someone to make a comment
George I have no idea what you're fucking saying to be fair.
I mean he pronounced it correctly so...yea.
YOU DIDNT SAY WHAT BRAND OF LED YOU USED, I CANT FIND ANYTHING!!!
RJ Productions AAAAHHHHHHH
Not 100% informative except for the making the led with lense part. These will need to be wired into the decoder aux power and will require a resistor to be placed in the wire circuit ( I place mine at the start of the series). Alternatively you can buy a decoder that actually has places for the leads to these various lights already built in and can then be assigned to a function button on your DCC controller (Best and easiest method as the resistance is usually already built into the decoder for this, but do confirm that it does).
You solder the wires and... you're done?!?!?! Thumbs down for a partial video explanation! First part--GREAT! And it's been 3 yrs since you posted this... and you haven't 'finished' it?
C'mon!
redbarnz due to your comment I will never upload the second part
@@MotownModels There doesn't need to be a "Part 2". You just need to "revise and complete" the original. And, I am not the only person who gave you high marks for the beginning but were disappointed with how you left stuff out. Suit yourself...
Lose the music. Its annoying and too loud when you are speaking.
cjdarts you're adopted
Guess that is not honest, because your video is not about ANY, but DCC only. Try do the same for DC Locomotive, it would be much harder not to damage LED.
Not sure why you mean? Using a resistor you're not going to damage anything.
@@MotownModels that works with DCC perfectly, with DC mode that could be a problem because motor work easily broke LED after some time... This problem is well known more than 15 years.
@@Alexander_Sth I don't understand. How can a motor break an LED? You're just applying a voltage to an LED, it's even more simple than DCC. Manufacturers use LED's in quite literally all new model trains being made today, and they last longer than bulbs.
@@MotownModels I guess because motor produce reverse pulsations from motor coils, also perhaps because motor can work as generator (back-EMF). Also, you change polarity which LED doesn’t like. All of that usually take care DCC decoder, but with DC you need to take care with yourself. Otherwise, while motor running LED could flicker or even get damage.
You can look theme:
“Directional lighting using LED's and DC- is it possible?”
“LEDs in DC Locomotives”
“LED Lok-Fahrlicht wechselseitig flackert“
Take a look there:
“reverse voltages”
“I would still put a "normal" diode in series if doing this as the PIV (Peak Inverse Voltage) ie the maximum reverse voltage the LED can stop is not great on most LEDs and they can get degraded and/or fail.”
The problem that many modelers make a lot of idea how to save LED with diodes, capacitor and so on, but for 20 years yet I didn’t see one common standard variant for that.
"Manufacturers use LED's in quite literally all new model trains"
Yes they are, but we need to see which components they use in motherboard of DC locomotive for them.
@@Alexander_Sth you obviously know about electronics then. You know how to wire them.
Lose the music...
2011Maynard no
WHY WHY WHY??????? Talking over non needed music is a dorks quest. SMFH
Wolfchacer What the hell are you even talking about?
Good solution to the wiring issues is to use a 21-pin Decoder of your choice and a Decoder Buddy. It was made for
Spazman’s Atlas locomotive with QSI frustration decoder but will fit into a lot of locomotives that are being upgraded or updated. It comes with resistors for LEDs, and there are models for bulbs and locomotives with resistors already installed in line. The Decoder Buddy is a versatile socket for your 21-pin Decoder. It has soldering pads on the motherboard for both pairs of track wires, speakers on either end, motor, and stay alive of your choice. It has a detachable small connector board for 8 matched identical lighting outputs. Take a look at www.nixtrainz.com for more information.
Well done.
What type of C.A. glue do you use?
What song did you use for the intro?