It's amazing how hard it is for us model lighting newbies to find basic info on how to light our first models! This series is fantastic! Thanks so much for providing these great tutorials.
Remembering 25 years ago, my best friends for lighting models were Radio Shack and a good calculator. Now everything is much, much easier. Not simple, but easier. Very good and enjoyable video, watching part 2 after this.
What a wonderful rabbit hole to fall into. Looked into lighting models over a decade ago, was a pain sourcing the parts back then but coming back to it now it's so accessible wow I've so many models I wanna light up now. That 3v option with those nano leds is perfect for 28mm scale things. Thank you
Thanks for watching, I appreciate your kind words and glad you found my video useful. The guys at modeltrainsoftware are also very helpful if you have further questions. Thanks
I just lit my old Seaquest DSV submarine model using a 9V battery connection. I had the model for years. I managed to put in the white bow searchlights and drill holes into the forward starboard and Port sides for portholes. The white LED lighting looks great in those sections. However, I also put in red lights on either side of the center vehicle hanger bubble, as well as a blue light in the engine area,. Those are not working. I discovered that a wire had severed during reassembly (yes, I tested the wires before reassembly, worked perfectly). But, with just the white lights lighting up the bow headlights, stern, and port sides, it looks pretty good and impressive. I'll have to again disassemble the modelget to repair/re-do red and blue lights for the engine and the vehicle bubble area another time. Putting the lights in, that took 12 hours!
@@InterstellarModeler I meant to stay, you gave me the incentive for this! From your Seaview video. It also gave me the idea about using a 9-volt battery, hidden in the stern. I thought about using outlet power and was rigging it up so, but I figured why complicate the matter, make it as simple as possible. I think I can do a rig to outlet power later on, if I wish.
Of course, now all kinds of small L.E.D.s are available as party effects, set into clear unscrewable housings that use included remote controls to turn on, change color, fade, etc., and are crazy cheap. (try to find a U.S. distributor, though, as an order from China for a 10 bucks set can take months) What I'm looking for now is the smallest sets available, since the L.E.D.'s have to house circuitry, and batteries. Right now I'm surround by some pretty small clear little domes about an inch in diameter and have a height of 3/4". A set of ten with a remote is less than 20 bucks. If I can find a set that has sizes half that size, I'm king. July 2020.
sclogse1 the smallest I’m aware of are SMDs which can be connected to small boards that can be set up for various effects. Check out my NOMAD build, all done with SMDs. I would also check out EvanDesigns.com who have a good assortment of SMDs and can also help you custom make stuff for you. Thanks for watching
This is a really excellent video !! The perfect video for beginners to take the first steps , so many videos begin by assuming that you already know the lingo . Keep up the great videos !!
To avoid a mistake I sometimes make, remember to slip a piece of shrink wrap over the wire BEFORE soldering, and one plenty large enough to accommodate the bulge of solder.
Great info. Been working on a small lighting project for a model myself and found a method to splice wires together without soldering. The resin glue called Bondic will seal twisted wires and prevents shorts because it does not conduct electricity. The resin instant hardens with UV light supplied with the glue. After using the glue I then shrink wrap the connection.
Thanks for your kind response ! The problem is that I am denied anything about electricity; you're right you would want a video too long !!! Thanks again and congratulations again !!!
Thanks for the LED supply link! I’m building a diorama of the tank battle in “Fury”, and they actually have a “fire” kit! Great videos and outstanding models BTW!!!
Wow this video is awesome. I've been looking for a video like this for along time. I know absolutely nothing about it but just received a wealth of info from u. Going to watch part 2 now. Hope there are more to follow. Thanks a ton for doing this type of video(s)/series.
Thanks for watching and for your kind comments. Doing tutorials can be a challenge. It's sometimes hard to know what exactly people would find helpful. Let me know if you have any specific questions. Thanks again.
yes, lighting used to be very hard as LEDs were expensive and they only had green and red (then later yellow and orange), they were large. They had seed lighting, which was small bulbs. Fiber optics was not available and then was available and expensive. and yes, it has gotten better and more options!
Thank you for these videos! What gauge wire do you use? And where can you get that thin "magnetic" wire I keep hearing about. Google searches aren't finding it for me.
Hi Leelan...I'm actually not sure what gauge wire all the prewired LEDs come with but they are all the same. As for the magnetic wire, I can only find it at modeltrainsoftware. The separate colors are out of stock last time I looked but the do sell red/black magnetic wire intertwined.
Thank you for your kind comment. Recording every single step would result in very long videos so I try to abbreviate when I can. Let me know if you have any specific questions. Thanks
can you please answer one question ( the ones with the transistor included *can you soder them in a row IE 5 to 10* on the positve and negative side for the battery pack .)
You're welcome and thanks for watching. Parts 2 and 3 will be up shortly. Let me know if you have any specific questions. I've hopefully provided some useful info.
David and Shelly at Evan Designs/Modeltrainsoftware.com are great to deal with. I've ordered LEDs from them on Thursday and they were in my mailbox Saturday!
You're welcome. Not sure I can really help on that one. If you still have questions, see if the folks at Evandesigns have any suggestions. They're formerly known as modeltrainsoftware
It’s really impress what you did it !thanks so much for sharing your time and your perfect imagination to do that if you don’t mind do you know where I can buy those kind of lights so I can do by myself here?
Hi! I'm coming from your phaser rifle video and looking to enhance my model with nice lighting. At 4:34 in this video, the banner reads that a resistor for chip-size lights can handle 12v, but at 4:48 you say it can handle only 9v. Can you help clarify here?
Yeah sorry about that. I started posting links in my later videos. Most of the products here can be found at evandesigns.com formerly Modeltrainsoftware.com. Same company just a name change. Thanks for watching
Hi my friend I'm struggling with lighting for my Stargate diorama. I'm trying to light up the gate with 7 I think there pico leds I have. Now I want a 9volt battery to power it, but do I need a resistor or resisters to the leds and what size resistor I can't find this information anywhere. Plz help
The easiest way to do this is to order the Pico LEDs prewired with a resistor if you want to avoid calculations. Otherwise I'd advising contact the guys at modeltrainsoftware.com and they'd be able to help you. I'm not sure what voltage is for those pico SMDs and dont want to give you a wrong answer
Hay I have a question for you that you can help me with, let’s just say that you are using 5 micro leds (that are prewired with resister) that each led required 3v what type of battery you should recommend me that I can use for them
if you’re referring to the smaller SMDs it’s been my experience that they can only take a max of 3V unless wired to a resistor. A 3v can certainly work but if you want them brighter you’ll have to go higher and thus will need the appropriate resistor. The guys at modeltrainsoftware can provide u with more advice and sell prewired SMDs if you dont want to deal with attaching resistors. Hope that helps
Interstellar Modeler thanks and also I relized that I have a 1 green micro 3volts, 2 red smd 2 volts and 4 white micro led 3 volts and I want to use is a 9 volt battery can I used that battery or can I use like a coin battery to power them up?
@@AngelHernandez-dz9jd Most SMDs and smaller LEDs can only take up to 3V (coin sized) unless they're wired to a resistor. Otherwise they'll quickly burn out with a 9V or higher. Hope that helps.
The chip lights can be ordered from modeltrainsoftware.com while the flickering LEDs can be found on Ebay. Just make sure you get them with prewired resistors. Also if you scroll through my videos you'll see I have a Viper build. You might find them helpful. Thanks for watching.
'' I want them to be self sufficient enough that I wont need to rely on an outlet'....hmm.....you are talking to me like I know exactly what that means, so in that short space of time, you've lost me....so what is meant by 'an outlet?'....
Sorry about the confusion. I was referring to an electrical outlet. An alternative power source you can use for lighting models is a wall electrical outlet which requires hooking up to an adapter transformer. What I meant here was that I didn't want to have to run over to a wall outlet each time I turned on the lights. My models are displayed on shelves and occasionally I'll turn them on for friends who are visiting. It's nice to be able to just flip the switch to do so without having to take it to a wall outlet. Depending on the build, a 9V battery won't last all day but it's more than enough to show off the lights. The disadvantage is at a model show when you'd like to have it lit throughout the day but since that's a rare occasion, I typically wire my lights up to a battery that's enclosed within the stand.
The larger LEDs that are pre-wired typically come with 26 gauge. The smaller SMDs can vary. At EvanDesigns they can come with 28 AwgKynar and others with thin magnet wire. Hope that helps. Here's a link to wire one can buy: evandesigns.com/products/kynar-hook-up-wire
4 years later and this video is still relevant. thanks for posting
Glad you found it useful, thanks for the comment and for watching
for me as well, thank you very much! Greetings from Germany.
5*
It's amazing how hard it is for us model lighting newbies to find basic info on how to light our first models! This series is fantastic! Thanks so much for providing these great tutorials.
You're welcome. Thanks for taking the time to leave your kind comment.
Evans Design is another great place to get lights! They’re very helpful and will walk you through everything! Great video! 👍🙋♂️🖖🏻
Totally agree. Thanks for watching
Cheers bud. Your video was the first to point me in the right direction regarding (dollhouse) lighting. Pre-wired it is then.
Thansk John, glad it helped
Remembering 25 years ago, my best friends for lighting models were Radio Shack and a good calculator. Now everything is much, much easier. Not simple, but easier.
Very good and enjoyable video, watching part 2 after this.
Thank you.
What a wonderful rabbit hole to fall into. Looked into lighting models over a decade ago, was a pain sourcing the parts back then but coming back to it now it's so accessible wow I've so many models I wanna light up now. That 3v option with those nano leds is perfect for 28mm scale things. Thank you
Thanks for watching, I appreciate your kind words and glad you found my video useful. The guys at modeltrainsoftware are also very helpful if you have further questions. Thanks
I just lit my old Seaquest DSV submarine model using a 9V battery connection. I had the model for years. I managed to put in the white bow searchlights and drill holes into the forward starboard and Port sides for portholes. The white LED lighting looks great in those sections. However, I also put in red lights on either side of the center vehicle hanger bubble, as well as a blue light in the engine area,. Those are not working. I discovered that a wire had severed during reassembly (yes, I tested the wires before reassembly, worked perfectly). But, with just the white lights lighting up the bow headlights, stern, and port sides, it looks pretty good and impressive. I'll have to again disassemble the modelget to repair/re-do red and blue lights for the engine and the vehicle bubble area another time. Putting the lights in, that took 12 hours!
the Seaview definitely looks awesome when lit that way. Send pics of the model if you get the chance. ISMslideshow@gmail
@@InterstellarModeler I meant to stay, you gave me the incentive for this! From your Seaview video. It also gave me the idea about using a 9-volt battery, hidden in the stern. I thought about using outlet power and was rigging it up so, but I figured why complicate the matter, make it as simple as possible. I think I can do a rig to outlet power later on, if I wish.
This was super helpful! Thank you for taking the time to upload.
You’re welcome, glad you found it helpful. Appreciate the kind words too
hey Pal, thanks for all the videos and effort you put into them. They are all really really helpful, especially to beginners like me.
Of course, now all kinds of small L.E.D.s are available as party effects, set into clear unscrewable housings that use included remote controls to turn on, change color, fade, etc., and are crazy cheap. (try to find a U.S. distributor, though, as an order from China for a 10 bucks set can take months) What I'm looking for now is the smallest sets available, since the L.E.D.'s have to house circuitry, and batteries. Right now I'm surround by some pretty small clear little domes about an inch in diameter and have a height of 3/4". A set of ten with a remote is less than 20 bucks. If I can find a set that has sizes half that size, I'm king. July 2020.
sclogse1 the smallest I’m aware of are SMDs which can be connected to small boards that can be set up for various effects. Check out my NOMAD build, all done with SMDs. I would also check out EvanDesigns.com who have a good assortment of SMDs and can also help you custom make stuff for you. Thanks for watching
0:46 the dineyland moonliner! awesome!
thanks for watching
This is a really excellent video !! The perfect video for beginners to take the first steps , so many videos begin by assuming that you already know the lingo . Keep up the great videos !!
Thank you
I just found your channel. You, sir, are very helpful and have a new subscriber.
Thank you very much Codey. I'm glad you found this helpful. Appreciate the compliment
To avoid a mistake I sometimes make, remember to slip a piece of shrink wrap over the wire BEFORE soldering, and one plenty large enough to accommodate the bulge of solder.
great tip, thanks
Great overview video!! Really appreciate the info
You’re welcome
This was excellent! Thank you for sharing. I've been looking for a comprehensive Led tutorial that covers the basics.
Russell Gosselin you’re very welcome. Glad you found it helpful
Great info. Been working on a small lighting project for a model myself and found a method to splice wires together without soldering. The resin glue called Bondic will seal twisted wires and prevents shorts because it does not conduct electricity. The resin instant hardens with UV light supplied with the glue. After using the glue I then shrink wrap the connection.
nice....I'll check it out
Thanks for your kind response ! The problem is that I am denied anything about electricity; you're right you would want a video too long !!! Thanks again and congratulations again !!!
1.8mm diode with fiberoptic plastic and a lense works as well also.
thanks
Thanks for the LED supply link!
I’m building a diorama of the tank battle in “Fury”, and they actually have a “fire” kit!
Great videos and outstanding models BTW!!!
Thanks for the comments. Glad you found these videos helpful. Would love to see pics of your finished diorama. Have a great day
Wow this video is awesome. I've been looking for a video like this for along time. I know absolutely nothing about it but just received a wealth of info from u. Going to watch part 2 now. Hope there are more to follow. Thanks a ton for doing this type of video(s)/series.
Thanks for watching and for your kind comments. Doing tutorials can be a challenge. It's sometimes hard to know what exactly people would find helpful. Let me know if you have any specific questions. Thanks again.
Exactly what I needed for a Zoom sculpt and print I'm working on.
New sub.
Awesome! Thank you!
yes, lighting used to be very hard as LEDs were expensive and they only had green and red (then later yellow and orange), they were large. They had seed lighting, which was small bulbs. Fiber optics was not available and then was available and expensive. and yes, it has gotten better and more options!
And thank goodness too. Opens up the door to so many possibilities. Thanks Brett
Greta video.. nice and clear. Thanks
very useful, awesome video, Thanks Oggie
Considering that I'm getting ready to start the MPC 22" Eagle Transporter, this tutorial couldn't have come along at a better time! LOL!
great amazing video
Thanks for the visit
Nicely done, sir! I am really looking forward to the next segments of this tutorial.
Thank you for these videos! What gauge wire do you use? And where can you get that thin "magnetic" wire I keep hearing about. Google searches aren't finding it for me.
Hi Leelan...I'm actually not sure what gauge wire all the prewired LEDs come with but they are all the same. As for the magnetic wire, I can only find it at modeltrainsoftware. The separate colors are out of stock last time I looked but the do sell red/black magnetic wire intertwined.
congratulations for your work !!! But can not you see step by step the work done on the BattleStar Galactica Viper?
Thank you for your kind comment. Recording every single step would result in very long videos so I try to abbreviate when I can. Let me know if you have any specific questions. Thanks
can you please answer one question ( the ones with the transistor included *can you soder them in a row IE 5 to 10* on the positve and negative side for the battery pack .)
Yes.
I've been looking for a video like this for some time now. Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome and thanks for watching. Parts 2 and 3 will be up shortly. Let me know if you have any specific questions. I've hopefully provided some useful info.
What are the White Small switches called , Thanx for sharing
They can be found on Modeltrainsoftware.com and are labeled "Microswitches". Here's the link: www.modeltrainsoftware.com/mosu2.html
those are the microswitches
Interstellar Modeler Thax , will purchase some they look very good
David and Shelly at Evan Designs/Modeltrainsoftware.com are great to deal with. I've ordered LEDs from them on Thursday and they were in my mailbox Saturday!
So talented!!!
thank u
Hey thanks for taking the time to produce a quality tutorial.
You're welcome, glad you found it helpful. Thank you for watching and for leaving your kind comment.
Thanks for sharing
You’re welcome
Great video! TY!
You’re welcome, thanks for watching
Fabulous thanks!
Glad you liked it, thanks for watching
Im building gundam model kits and leds kits for those are alil pricey but i only have acouple MG and acouple RG. This was a good video thanks !!
glad you got something out of it, thanks
Wow this was really simple! thanks im only 12 but still got this
Rip Aidan awesome....I appreciate your comment thank you
Thanks dude! I’m trying to make a car showroom diorama in 1:24 scale. And I don’t know how to do lightbars
You're welcome. Not sure I can really help on that one. If you still have questions, see if the folks at Evandesigns have any suggestions. They're formerly known as modeltrainsoftware
It’s really impress what you did it !thanks so much for sharing your time and your perfect imagination to do that if you don’t mind do you know where I can buy those kind of lights so I can do by myself here?
I buy most of my LEDs from modeltrainsoftware.com. They're great with answering your questions too. Thank you for your kind comment and for watching
Hi! I'm coming from your phaser rifle video and looking to enhance my model with nice lighting. At 4:34 in this video, the banner reads that a resistor for chip-size lights can handle 12v, but at 4:48 you say it can handle only 9v. Can you help clarify here?
The resistor is rated up to 12V. I only used a 9V. Sorry for the confusion
Very helpful👍👍
excellent video
Great video
Thank you.
great part 1 thank u
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@maxasmr4348 you’re welcome
thank you
You're welcome, thanks for the comment
y u no post links to the sites where you get your items?
ok fine. I'll do it myself.
Yeah sorry about that. I started posting links in my later videos. Most of the products here can be found at evandesigns.com formerly Modeltrainsoftware.com. Same company just a name change. Thanks for watching
why is this in animated comics list lmao
Hmm interesting….well thanks for taking a peek anyway 😊
Where do I find those 'solderless connectors? Thx. Great stuff.
Thanks for watching......Try culttvman.com
Hi my friend I'm struggling with lighting for my Stargate diorama. I'm trying to light up the gate with 7 I think there pico leds I have. Now I want a 9volt battery to power it, but do I need a resistor or resisters to the leds and what size resistor I can't find this information anywhere. Plz help
The easiest way to do this is to order the Pico LEDs prewired with a resistor if you want to avoid calculations. Otherwise I'd advising contact the guys at modeltrainsoftware.com and they'd be able to help you. I'm not sure what voltage is for those pico SMDs and dont want to give you a wrong answer
Nice tutorial my friend :)
Wair did you say got your leds at?
A variety of sources available; evandesigns.com, hdamodelworx, culttvman, ebay. 👍
Where did you get the 3V wiring kit?
evandesigns.com.....formerly known as modeltrainsoftware.com
@@InterstellarModeler
Thank you!
Hay I have a question for you that you can help me with, let’s just say that you are using 5 micro leds (that are prewired with resister) that each led required 3v what type of battery you should recommend me that I can use for them
if you’re referring to the smaller SMDs it’s been my experience that they can only take a max of 3V unless wired to a resistor. A 3v can certainly work but if you want them brighter you’ll have to go higher and thus will need the appropriate resistor. The guys at modeltrainsoftware can provide u with more advice and sell prewired SMDs if you dont want to deal with attaching resistors. Hope that helps
Interstellar Modeler thanks and also I relized that I have a 1 green micro 3volts, 2 red smd 2 volts and 4 white micro led 3 volts and I want to use is a 9 volt battery can I used that battery or can I use like a coin battery to power them up?
@@AngelHernandez-dz9jd Most SMDs and smaller LEDs can only take up to 3V (coin sized) unless they're wired to a resistor. Otherwise they'll quickly burn out with a 9V or higher. Hope that helps.
Interstellar Modeler ok thanks I’ll try it out
@@AngelHernandez-dz9jd Sounds good Angel
are there any (no need to solder) Led light kits?
Yes....there are solder free options. Here's a link you can browse through
www.culttvmanshop.com/EasyLED_c_181.html
I have a colonial viper kit to build what LED lights do u recommend I use
I would recommend 3 chip lights for the cockpit, 3mm flickering cool white LEDs for the engines (1 for each engine).
Interstellar Modeler thanks very much bro
Who can i order the lights from
The chip lights can be ordered from modeltrainsoftware.com while the flickering LEDs can be found on Ebay. Just make sure you get them with prewired resistors. Also if you scroll through my videos you'll see I have a Viper build. You might find them helpful. Thanks for watching.
Thanks very much I appreciate it
aaand start! 1:01
thx
'' I want them to be self sufficient enough that I wont need to rely on an outlet'....hmm.....you are talking to me like I know exactly what that means, so in that short space of time, you've lost me....so what is meant by 'an outlet?'....
Sorry about the confusion. I was referring to an electrical outlet. An alternative power source you can use for lighting models is a wall electrical outlet which requires hooking up to an adapter transformer. What I meant here was that I didn't want to have to run over to a wall outlet each time I turned on the lights. My models are displayed on shelves and occasionally I'll turn them on for friends who are visiting. It's nice to be able to just flip the switch to do so without having to take it to a wall outlet. Depending on the build, a 9V battery won't last all day but it's more than enough to show off the lights. The disadvantage is at a model show when you'd like to have it lit throughout the day but since that's a rare occasion, I typically wire my lights up to a battery that's enclosed within the stand.
Do you have a Instagram or email I have a few questions
Interstellarmodeler@gmail
What’s the standard gauge of wires used here?
The larger LEDs that are pre-wired typically come with 26 gauge. The smaller SMDs can vary. At EvanDesigns they can come with 28 AwgKynar and others with thin magnet wire. Hope that helps. Here's a link to wire one can buy: evandesigns.com/products/kynar-hook-up-wire