Prado 120 Adventures Ep11: Wheel Bearing and Brake Pad Replacement
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- A quick tutorial video showing you how to change out your front wheel bearings on a Toyota Landcruiser Prado 120 series. While its all apart, I also put on some new brake rotors/discs as my old ones were beginning to corrode and not work as well.
I also show you how to change out the front brake pads, a very easy job to do.
Disclaimer: I am not a qualified motor vehicle mechanic. What I show in these videos is how I tackle mechanical jobs at home in my own driveway with limited tools, equipment, knowledge and budget. If you are unsure of how your vehicle operates and what is required for maintenance and/or modification, please seek out advice from a qualified mechanic or engineer.
![How to change rear brake pads / rear brake pad set on TOYOTA LAND CRUISER PRADO 3 (J120) [AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bNu-M2s9I34/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to change rear brake pads / rear brake pad set on TOYOTA LAND CRUISER PRADO 3 (J120) [AUTODOC]](/img/tr.png)
Nice job with the tools specified at the beginning, very helpful. I watched it as a memory jogger before helping a friend, who will be coming over shortly. All the details a first timer could want.
Thanks mate, glad to hear it helped!
Thanks just ordered some new rotors and hub assemblies- 319,000 km and don't think bearings ever replaced
Its a worth while job to do!
Thanks Todd, good to know these things before I start the job, great help
Another top video Todd! Thanks for spending time to explain things as you go! 👍🏼
Hey mate. Just wanna say, this video saved my life. Just changed my fronts over the Chrissy break before a trip up north and all the mechanics were on holiday. Thanks for the step by step! Hope to meet you on the tracks here in Perth!
Great to hear mate, cheers for the feedback!
Thanks for this video. Very helpful to change my hub/bearing today 👍
Glad it helped. Cheers!
Top man Todd, another very informative vid and you're a Mighty Car Mods fan, even better :-)
Great vid. Man that breaker bar be tough 😳
Felt like it was going to snap, but it always holds it together!
Thank's Todd, another very helpful video. Cheers!
I own a 07 FJ Cruiser. But underneath is about the same as the Prado Thanks for the video. 👋
Thanks for watching! Yeah the FJ cruiser, N70 Hilux, Prado 120 and Lexus GX470 all share the same front chassis pretty much, so knowing how to do one job on your car means you know how to do it on these others too.
Great video mate and btw those ebay ones popped up again so snatched them up lol
Thanks very much, great video. Concise and to the point. A great help. Does the axle require greasing.
Cheers mate, really appreciate it.
Not in the rear diff, no. It's submerged in diff oil.
Hey Todd! Just wanting to know where abouts you ordered the wheel bearing assembly from? Trying to look everywhere but can't find a whole kit. Love the vidoes!
Hey William, just from ebay mate, I think mine were through PartsOnline from memory. Cheers for the feedback!
Huge help Toddy, Thanks mate - also, if you dont mind, how much did you fork out for the replacement assembly?
Thanks mate, the wheel bearing assembly was from ebay for around $120. The exact listing isn't there anymore but there are other options on there for a similar price.
Thanks Tod, just did mine today. The Axle nuts and bearing nuts where a b****
Yeah they can be on there bloody tight if corrosion has set in!
Todd, as always - great video. One question though, shouldn’t the spring in calliper fit on the bottom pin?
Thanks mate, really appreciate your kind words!
In terms of the spring, the advice I've been given is it doesn't matter. Its job is just to keep the pads apart when you take your foot off the brake pedal, and orientating it up or down doesn't change its capacity to operate. I chose to use them on the top pins as it has less chance of catching grass or sticks as I drive, as gravity will help keep things out.
Hope that makes sense.
Hey mate I’m doing the same with mine today just wondering how you hold the pistons in before slipping the new pads in? Love ya channel too mate it’s awesome
Hi mate,
If you push the pistons into the calipers they should stay there. If not, you can loosen the bleed nipple on top of the caliper to release fluid pressure a bit when the pistons move in, which should help keep them there. Use a 10mm ring spanner to just crack the nipple. Make sure to tighten it back up again afterwards to avoid needing to bleed the brakes
Hey mate. I know it’s an old video of your channel but happened to be really handy for me. And I was wondering where did you get your calipers and bearings from?
Hi Yohan, thanks for you comment!
I just got them through Ebay. Just be sure to find a reputable seller first.
Awesome video, thanks for posting. Where did you buy the bearings from?
Thanks Tim, I got the bearing and hub assembly from eBay
Hi mate! Thanks for this video. Question with Break caliper. When you replace it, do you have to drain break fluid? Can you please show or tell us around unbolting break fluid pipes? Thanks
When removing the brake caliper, yes you will need to undo the steel brake line going into the caliper. A 10mm open ended spanner will work fine, but a 10mm Crows Foot socket or brake line spanner is highly recommended if they are done up really tight.
Best thing to do is clamp the rubber brake line just up from that particular caliper, with a rag around the rubber line then a set of vice grips or brake line clamps, in order to block off the line. Then undo the 10mm nut holding the steel brake line onto the caliper.
Good Video, why dont you use for the brakes the anti noise lubricant on the outside of the brakepads? Its good and protect your Brake cylinders. I use the Brembo brakepads.. they bite very good 😊 european Version 😃 greetings from germany
Hello from Australia!
What anti-noise lubricant do you use? I'm not very familiar with those products. Do they make much of a difference?
@@offroadcrusader yes its much better , no noises on the Breaks , it protect from rust and its good for the break cylinders , i use liqui molly with the name " Bremsen Service paste " all good mechanics use it in germany 😊 i dont know if you have it in australia, but if you use google and UA-cam you will find Videos and pictures of that product greetings from germany
Tks mate
Hi Todd, just one question mate, does the shaft bearing nut need to be tightened to a torque setting
Hi mate, yeah officially is 294Nm
Good job, due on my old girl very soon too.
What brand is the hubs? How reliable is it?
Hey Todd,
How are these eBay bearings and hub assemblies holding up? I'd much prefer to save the money over genuine ones if they are still fairing you well!
Theyre going well thanks, I abuse mine pretty heavily and now that I know how to change them easily, I don't mind saving money on parts like this.
If it was a part which is hard to change or was expensive, I may look more into the high quality options. But for now, I'm happy to put the savings into more fuel to go on more adventures!
Hi Todd,
Do you have any videos showing thermostat replacement?
Hi Adam, no I don't as of yet, but I will be replacing my radiator at some stage soon so I'll make sure to include a thermostat replacement as well.
What brand is the wheelbaring hub?
Was a generic brand from ebay
Is this the same for 150 series ? Glad I watched before heading home without a 35mm Socket 👍
I couldn't tell you for certain, but I would strongly think so. A lot of the front end is the same between 120 and 150 models, though there are a few small differences.
It was pretty much the same , hardest thing was getting the dust cover off , confirmed 35mm socket for 150series as well . My hubkit had no oring which is a bit slack as it is the only part missing to do the job , took about 2 beers per side for hubs/ rotors /pads 👍
Hi Todd looked on EBay for wheel hubs any one you recommend with good bearings in the hubs not a lot of difference in prices but so much cheaper than genuine, cheers Alan
Hi Alan, I'd suggest having a look through the descriptions and pictures of each wheel bearing and hub listed, to see if they are able to produce any named brands. Otherwise a safe bet would be to choose the item with the most number of sales. Poor quality items don't last long as a single listing.
Todd Lauren
Thanks Todd will have a look seems plenty to choose from Toyota are bloody expensive.
Enjoy your videos keep them coming, Alan.
Hi Todd, thinking about buying the same rotors and brake pads, what are your thoughts on them so far, would you recommend? Cheers Alister
Hi mate, yeah really happy with them, have had no dramas and it still pulls the heavy bugger of a rig to a stop really well.
Great video Todd, what are those callipers you replace with?
Hi mate, they are just a caliper off of ebay. There weren't too many options for the drivers side caliper on there, but heaps for the passengers side. Don't know why.
what is the torque on the drive shaft nut the 36 mm one
Nice vid! Any particular grease to go around the hub seal?
Hi mate, in reality any grease will work fine around the hub seal as temperature and pressure aren't really a factor here. I just use CV grease as I already have heaps in the shed haha.
Todd do you have a video of how you trimmed down the rear bumper bar
Sorry, no I don't. But I just marked a line along the back of the bumper, in the indented groove, around the side to meet with where the top of the factory mudflaps go. Then cut the line with a jigsaw and covered the exposed edge with some pinchweld.
How much does your 120 weigh?
Around 2.9t
@@offroadcrusader Thanks
Pads where bendix. What kind of rotar did you go for? And caliper replacement too?
The rotors are a slotted and dimpled type from eBay, can't remember the brand sorry. Yes replaced the caliper on the driver side too as I had two pistons close to seizing and decided to replace this caliper now with new pistons, seals and o-rings and rebuild the old caliper for use later if needed.
Where is your hand break???