Ivan is the man. He has the Saturn Astra that was driving me nuts. He figured it out! One last hurdle and should be golden! Can't wait to see him again. He listens to you and no judgement!!!!
When Ivan said "I'm going to rev up the engine" I thought, oh Scotty Kilmer would be proud! Haven't had any newer Mitsubishis but had a few older models and all were suuuuuper reliable. Their vans and pickups especially, were right up there with Toyota. Here in New Zealand it was hard to find a second hand one because people would own them until they drove the wheels off!
Owned a year two "Eclipse" clone (Eagle Talon 2.0L) back in the day. Beautiful, fast, never a problem over the years. Until it got rear ended while stopped at a traffic light by a K car wagon driver whose "rear end fell off" after he got new springs and shocks put on it. He had insurance but no licence.
Customer got a good deal there. It's hardly the mechanics fault when malfunctioning system is masking an underlying weakness i.e. coolant system pressure comes back online and the upper rad. tank fails. I know we live in the real world and it can be hard for customers to understand that they need to step up and pay for repairs like this but in this case the work and diag was pretty faultless-different story if a bad call was made or a part was accidentally damaged.
I had one of these and I loved it. All the dashes are like that! Another problem I had was the rear valve cover would not stop leaking oil. I tried to put on a new gasket and found that the used car place used a tube of red RTV and over-tightened the bolts crushing the valve cover. Never could get it to stop leaking. Traded it back in. Mainly because the back end gets squirrely around 120 :)
It’s always a tough sell when the customers car breaks in the service drive. I remember trying to convince one customer who was waiting while I serviced their car that their battery failed and needs replaced. I don’t think they ever believed me:( I never tried to fix a stuck solenoid valve either. Will have to try if I get in a bind.
hey Ivan, wow. rad went boom!? damn! at least its all fixed, i wouldna thought the egr can be removed and cleaned, but you did it while in place. thats new to me! thats great the car runs awesome!! great fix and video!!! many thumbs up!!
That seems to be the weak spot in this kind of radiators. My old Mazda started blowing steam from that place, in traffic lights it looked like the engine room is on fire :D Fixed by replacing the radiator. Later, in one very cold winter, my Nissan radiator had a small leak from the same place, the seam between the radiator core and the plastic top tank. I carefully tightened with pliers those metal clips that hold the top plastic tank and it seemed to fix it, no parts required :D But of course, those clips are aluminium I guess and might snap very easily, then the only fix is replacing the radiator anyway.
My 2003 Ford Focus has 105k miles. Timing belt is original, I'm definitely looking forward to replacing it. Don't want it to break and leave me stranded.
Smashing repair ivan, a nice old car :-D I can understand the owner having a play with the throttle stop adjustment, but i would have checked the state of the throttle butterfly first for caked on muck. (my mates old Beat-My-Wallet was really bad.) I would have still failed with the mitsubishi but it's easy enough to check. Dam egr systems, he could do with having the system cleaned on a regular basis, but humans..... ha ha :-D
That is the weirdest EGR system I have seen for that vintage car ! A combination of old school port vacuum controls and vent solenoid. I would still replace that solenoid.
anonymic79 The 3000gt Vr-4 when it first came out was one of the most technologically advanced cars of its time so idk what your talking about but compared to Mitsubishi’s made today...... yes they are cheap, slow and suck
Very interesting with the WD40 fix. Also as Eric O. would say, idle screw; someone went a meddlin' where they aren't supposed to! Bonus Footage idea would have been a clip of the Wife driving a convertible!
Any time you have a weak pressure cap, you have to expect some or all other parts of the system to fail once you put pressure back. That is how it always is. If you don't have the time or money to deal with more issues, don't go fixing the first issue.
I've been using Continental kits on my '93 Volvo 940. Factory recommends changing every 50k. Nope, not in my world, lol! I went 70k on the last set if I remember right (maybe more), and the bearing in the tensioner was just in the beginning stages of drying out. Good stuff there. 👍
Thank you Ivan. Good job. I thought your bonus footage was going to be the transmission gave out. LOL, you jinxed it. Have a blessed and safe week to you and your family.
Great job Ivan love it. One thing to be mindful of is the rad blow out could be a collateral effect of cooling system taking on pressure. Have not seen part 2. Will watch thanks again
@@lakinnenlako6883 yeah if you're going through all the effort to take the timing cover off you may as well replace everything inside there for peace of mind
Nice one Ivan👍 Freaky how coincidence comes along....Got a driveability diag. to look at on a very similar one tomorrow morning...pre-obd2 - TH/KH Magna/Verada 3.5L/6G74, similar to an Eclipse I think, but we're about 10 years behind (2005-->) in catching up to obd2 standards...no flash codes stored and no accessible live data...gotta go old school on this one🤔 Apparently it only plays up after it warms up, ok at Idle and full throttle, but struggles in the low-mid range....I'll definately check for vac. leaks + EGR probs, and TPS settings etc, but I'm thinking it might be an open loop issue..eg. maybe no 02 sensor function to go into C.L. It could be so many things...ignition issue, MAF, VSS, CTS, ECM, etc etc...wish me luck, it might turn into a good one🤣👍🇦🇺
Back in seventies we would mess with carb adjustments. But don’t on modern cars. I didn’t know you could even do it. On my 2015 Jeep didn’t have any screws I ever noticed. My 2007 Chevy Silverado idle messed up and was EVAC fault.
On some pre drive by wire cars, you can set a base idle speed with an adjustment screw. Typically you need to bridge a wire in the diagnostic socket to tell the ECU that you are performing base idle adjustment so it won’t intervene. When done you remove the wire and the ECU takes over idle control. It should never be used to fix other idle problems, since it may cause all kinds of drivability problems or stalling.
Привет, Иван! Да, мы все ремонтники, ценим старое японское качество! --------------- Наконец-то, в кадр попали кони! Они твои или соседские? Смотрю с интересом, Денис!
An endless supply of fresh corn right on your doorstep can't beat that, better have plenty of butter in stock I love Pennsylvania, as the song goes, those Pennsylvania hills are calling me home those Pennsylvania hills where you're never alone, those Pennsylvania hills are beckoning me, those friendly people with their good old hospitality.
Senor ivan you have that snap on verus down pat. Definitely got your money's worth out of it. Been a loyal follower but would not be able to use that verus full potential . As always muy sweet vieos
I guess like always no good deed goes unpunished. You replaced the broken radiator cap and the radiator couldn’t take the pressure of doing it’s job. 😂
I live in Illinois farm country and my wife has a Porsche Boxster. I've also often wondered if it would fit under one of those crop sprayers. That'd give the person driving it a real scare.
I’ve had serval cars with continental tires on them, they seem to be fairly well made but man they wear out fast. They’re extremely soft but don’t seem to grip well
TO adjust idle fully manual states drive vehicle in reverse for 12 minutes then turn off ignition, then turn on, drive in 1st gear for 7 miles at 4500 RPM, then.... .
Don’t touch idle screws unless you know what the hell youre doing. My father to me when I messed up carb setting on my first car a 65 Buick Skylark. Then he showed me how to do it right!!!! Miss him
Hello Ivan! I watch you all the time and was hoping you could shed some light on an issue i'm having with my 2000 Nissan Xterra. When it is cold, it runs ok and the idle is normal around 750. When it warms up, I get an OL-Fault on FUELSYSA and FUELSYSB is in CL and the idle drops to 500 but doesn't stall out. I had a bad downstream O2 sensor on bank 2 which I replaced with a new one. I checked my fuel pump pressure right after the fuel filter and it was inline with factory specs with key on and when running at idle. When this happens, I'm not getting any DTC's at all. Could this be my EGR or PCV acting up? The intake vacuum at normal idle sits at 7.97in/hg according to the scan tool i'm using. If I increase rpm's the vacuum drops. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
There is the proof that this guy is trouble, screwed with the base idle setting. No wonder this vehicle had other issues later, it's fully self inflicted.
Samuel, both plastic and metal radiator tanks fail, metal is more repairable plastic tends to fail more especially with cheep after market radiators. All aluminum radiators are the best if you can afford them. The cheaper Chinese knock off all aluminum radiators are pretty good.
Plastic radiators, plastic radiator cap parts, plastic EGR switch. Seems to be a common denominator of plastic that causes problems. Likely it's the engineering and plastic blends that are not up to the task.
Some of these imports have strange egr systems. I hate checking out the three and four port vacuum modulators. Following each hose through the maze of pipes to make sure it didn’t get modified or plugged. Nice work on this one Ivan. It makes it harder when there are multiple issues.
Reminded me of my sister's Eclipse GT. Complete (same) Timing kit, valve cover gaskets, all rotors and pads. My brake vid with dumb music and stills, was all I did, and that was years ago... Was a fun project.
I really didn´t understand your test here because at the beginning you tested the egr solenoid and it was good, and then you tested again and it was clogged, I am kind of confused and even I don´t know the purpose of this vacuum control valve at 14:07 and I don´t know how the flow in the solenoid operates, I mean I understood that if there is vacuum from the solenoid to the egr, the egr is closed but if I activate the solenoid there is no more vacuum and the egr opens. correct me if I am wrong, thanks
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics If the broken cap valve piece was rolling around in the top of the radiator, you could be pretty sure it was a case of the cap failing in service. If the broken piece was not there, where could it be? Nowhere else for it to go in the system, pretty impossible to fish out. You could then reasonably deduce that it was removed on purpose when the cap was off the radiator by previous owner or shop to mask the cracked radiator top tank.
Ivan felt sorry for the owner after blowing the budget on a new rad, so he just did a Russian repair on the EGR which should last him/her until they save up for a new one! ;-)
If the vacuum switching valve you replaced was restricted, which with the tests you performed it was made clear that it was, then how come when you initially tested the solenoid before researching how the system works it held vacuum and released it with battery voltage disconnected? Since it was restricted, wouldn’t the solenoid have not been able to leak out the vacuum during the initial test?
I wonder how many gravities a spin after a blow-out would submit the ejecta (driver) to in little convertible like this. Not that the ejecta would care without a seat belt to slow the velocity! Consider it happens at 60mph. Some Abrasions?
Had a 2004 Eclipse - the electrical egr solenoid control valve was intermittent - caused stalling for years before I found it, a week before I sold the car! The resistance of the coil would change with heat - still don't know how. Bad design as the egr was deactivated when the valve was activated...dumb.
Those 3.0 v6 engines were the same or similar in those old caravans I believe. Always saw them smoking out the tailpipe and many many headgasket failures. Believe Chrysler used them in the Sebring before the 2.7. Junk imo
oh man you put on that fancy rad cap and bust the poor guys rad lol. Nothing worse than having ring a customer up with a ever growing list of work that got be done as vehicle more broke than when dropped off until it is lol . least fixing his idle out of good will helped keep customer relations cool and made more good content .
Not to do with this video do you have the Alltel Ultra pro and what do you think seen ScannerDanner Eric O use it don't no you have used it or use it would like your feedback about it if you have any love the channel keep them coming
hey pal happy day ..crazy storm last week lost powere 5 dayes .. gen worked good shop took a tree hit .plow truck squashed .. ..all good ..adapt over come surfive .../thank god 4 hurricane insurance ..
Ivan is the man. He has the Saturn Astra that was driving me nuts. He figured it out! One last hurdle and should be golden! Can't wait to see him again. He listens to you and no judgement!!!!
Can't wait to hear the Astra roar back to life Bill 😁 Another EPIC case study haha
When Ivan said "I'm going to rev up the engine" I thought, oh Scotty Kilmer would be proud!
Haven't had any newer Mitsubishis but had a few older models and all were suuuuuper reliable. Their vans and pickups especially, were right up there with Toyota. Here in New Zealand it was hard to find a second hand one because people would own them until they drove the wheels off!
the newer stuff ain't great .
Owned a year two "Eclipse" clone (Eagle Talon 2.0L) back in the day. Beautiful, fast, never a problem over the years. Until it got rear ended while stopped at a traffic light by a K car wagon driver whose "rear end fell off" after he got new springs and shocks put on it. He had insurance but no licence.
Two cool cars destroyed in one second... 😕
Tried cleaning a vent solenoid once. It worked for about 10 minutes. Replaced it and all was well.
Customer got a good deal there. It's hardly the mechanics fault when malfunctioning system is masking an underlying weakness i.e. coolant system pressure comes back online and the upper rad. tank fails. I know we live in the real world and it can be hard for customers to understand that they need to step up and pay for repairs like this but in this case the work and diag was pretty faultless-different story if a bad call was made or a part was accidentally damaged.
I had one of these and I loved it. All the dashes are like that! Another problem I had was the rear valve cover would not stop leaking oil. I tried to put on a new gasket and found that the used car place used a tube of red RTV and over-tightened the bolts crushing the valve cover. Never could get it to stop leaking. Traded it back in. Mainly because the back end gets squirrely around 120 :)
It’s always a tough sell when the customers car breaks in the service drive. I remember trying to convince one customer who was waiting while I serviced their car that their battery failed and needs replaced. I don’t think they ever believed me:( I never tried to fix a stuck solenoid valve either. Will have to try if I get in a bind.
hey Ivan, wow. rad went boom!? damn! at least its all fixed, i wouldna thought the egr can be removed and cleaned, but you did it while in place. thats new to me! thats great the car runs awesome!! great fix and video!!! many thumbs up!!
That seems to be the weak spot in this kind of radiators. My old Mazda started blowing steam from that place, in traffic lights it looked like the engine room is on fire :D Fixed by replacing the radiator.
Later, in one very cold winter, my Nissan radiator had a small leak from the same place, the seam between the radiator core and the plastic top tank. I carefully tightened with pliers those metal clips that hold the top plastic tank and it seemed to fix it, no parts required :D
But of course, those clips are aluminium I guess and might snap very easily, then the only fix is replacing the radiator anyway.
My 2003 Ford Focus has 105k miles. Timing belt is original, I'm definitely looking forward to replacing it. Don't want it to break and leave me stranded.
Ivan( I got it right this time ) another good fix. Looks like beautiful weather. Hope all is good 😊 Artie
Smashing repair ivan, a nice old car :-D
I can understand the owner having a play with the throttle stop adjustment, but i would have checked the state of the throttle butterfly first for caked on muck. (my mates old Beat-My-Wallet was really bad.)
I would have still failed with the mitsubishi but it's easy enough to check.
Dam egr systems, he could do with having the system cleaned on a regular basis, but humans..... ha ha :-D
That is the weirdest EGR system I have seen for that vintage car ! A combination of old school port vacuum controls and vent solenoid. I would still replace that solenoid.
anonymic79 The 3000gt Vr-4 when it first came out was one of the most technologically advanced cars of its time so idk what your talking about but compared to Mitsubishi’s made today...... yes they are cheap, slow and suck
@@DaytonaBlueHr That EGR system is straight out of the 1970s !
Very interesting with the WD40 fix. Also as Eric O. would say, idle screw; someone went a meddlin' where they aren't supposed to! Bonus Footage idea would have been a clip of the Wife driving a convertible!
He knew the owner had played with it.
Nice method of diagnostic, Ivan. Also beautiful area down there.
Any time you have a weak pressure cap, you have to expect some or all other parts of the system to fail once you put pressure back. That is how it always is. If you don't have the time or money to deal with more issues, don't go fixing the first issue.
Very nicely done diagnosis. You have my admiration.
I've been using Continental kits on my '93 Volvo 940. Factory recommends changing every 50k. Nope, not in my world, lol! I went 70k on the last set if I remember right (maybe more), and the bearing in the tensioner was just in the beginning stages of drying out. Good stuff there. 👍
Thank you Ivan. Good job. I thought your bonus footage was going to be the transmission gave out. LOL, you jinxed it. Have a blessed and safe week to you and your family.
Another great job Ivan.
Always pleasure man, i hope more people like you get born. Great eye.
Great job Ivan love it. One thing to be mindful of is the rad blow out could be a collateral effect of cooling system taking on pressure. Have not seen part 2. Will watch thanks again
Nice diagnosis and NPR fix Ivan. Thanks!
Little voice inside my head saying check the fan before the new radiator blows up
@@lakinnenlako6883 yeah if you're going through all the effort to take the timing cover off you may as well replace everything inside there for peace of mind
Good job Ivan! That is a rarity here in Florida, A Eclipse of that age that is still running...They are known to be very problematic as they age...
Now you did it. You jinxed the transmission!
"sup" to the horses cracked me up
Wife and I just bought our 2nd new Mitsubishi Outlander love Mitsubishi
The poor radiator couldn’t take the pressure of the new cap
Nice one Ivan👍
Freaky how coincidence comes along....Got a driveability diag. to look at on a very similar one tomorrow morning...pre-obd2 - TH/KH Magna/Verada 3.5L/6G74, similar to an Eclipse I think, but we're about 10 years behind (2005-->) in catching up to obd2 standards...no flash codes stored and no accessible live data...gotta go old school on this one🤔
Apparently it only plays up after it warms up, ok at Idle and full throttle, but struggles in the low-mid range....I'll definately check for vac. leaks + EGR probs, and TPS settings etc, but I'm thinking it might be an open loop issue..eg. maybe no 02 sensor function to go into C.L.
It could be so many things...ignition issue, MAF, VSS, CTS, ECM, etc etc...wish me luck, it might turn into a good one🤣👍🇦🇺
Back in seventies we would mess with carb adjustments. But don’t on modern cars. I didn’t know you could even do it. On my 2015 Jeep didn’t have any screws I ever noticed. My 2007 Chevy Silverado idle messed up and was EVAC fault.
On some pre drive by wire cars, you can set a base idle speed with an adjustment screw. Typically you need to bridge a wire in the diagnostic socket to tell the ECU that you are performing base idle adjustment so it won’t intervene. When done you remove the wire and the ECU takes over idle control. It should never be used to fix other idle problems, since it may cause all kinds of drivability problems or stalling.
You look good in a convertible whith your cool man shades.
I had a 2002 Eclipse for a while. That dashboard would crack just looking at it.
nice day for a ride
Привет, Иван! Да, мы все ремонтники, ценим старое японское качество!
---------------
Наконец-то, в кадр попали кони! Они твои или соседские?
Смотрю с интересом, Денис!
An endless supply of fresh corn right on your doorstep can't beat that, better have plenty of butter in stock I love Pennsylvania, as the song goes, those Pennsylvania hills are calling me home those Pennsylvania hills where you're never alone, those Pennsylvania hills are beckoning me, those friendly people with their good old hospitality.
Senor ivan you have that snap on verus down pat. Definitely got your money's worth out of it. Been a loyal follower but would not be able to use that verus full potential . As always muy sweet vieos
Great video! Problem, diagnosis, and fix. Perfect!
I guess like always no good deed goes unpunished. You replaced the broken radiator cap and the radiator couldn’t take the pressure of doing it’s job. 😂
Saw your seat belt light is on.
ha that's a malfunction xD
Bond, Ivan Bond.ejector seat and smoke screen delete.😃WD 4O fog will compete with SMA Brake Kleen.
The parts gods are giving you karma for all those no parts required fixes lol.
Nice job Ivan!
Shit, I've always replaced that, never thought of cleaning that egr solenoid.
We'll see how long it lasts lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics At least they're easy to change and cheap at around 30 bucks once it craps out.
Well, at least the radiator blew out instead of the heater core!
Continental 🤘
Thats a cool car,thx Ivan👍
Great job!
Surprised the driver wasn’t going top down also. 🩳
I live in Illinois farm country and my wife has a Porsche Boxster. I've also often wondered if it would fit under one of those crop sprayers. That'd give the person driving it a real scare.
Continetal is the only brand i mount in cars for a timing job.
Nothing else......never.
I’ve had serval cars with continental tires on them, they seem to be fairly well made but man they wear out fast. They’re extremely soft but don’t seem to grip well
TO adjust idle fully manual states drive vehicle in reverse for 12 minutes then turn off ignition, then turn on, drive in 1st gear for 7 miles at 4500 RPM, then....
.
Don’t touch idle screws unless you know what the hell youre doing. My father to me when I messed up carb setting on my first car a 65 Buick Skylark. Then he showed me how to do it right!!!! Miss him
Love mayhem!
Hello Ivan! I watch you all the time and was hoping you could shed some light on an issue i'm having with my 2000 Nissan Xterra. When it is cold, it runs ok and the idle is normal around 750. When it warms up, I get an OL-Fault on FUELSYSA and FUELSYSB is in CL and the idle drops to 500 but doesn't stall out. I had a bad downstream O2 sensor on bank 2 which I replaced with a new one. I checked my fuel pump pressure right after the fuel filter and it was inline with factory specs with key on and when running at idle. When this happens, I'm not getting any DTC's at all. Could this be my EGR or PCV acting up? The intake vacuum at normal idle sits at 7.97in/hg according to the scan tool i'm using. If I increase rpm's the vacuum drops. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
When the going gets tough, the shirt gets going.
There is the proof that this guy is trouble, screwed with the base idle setting.
No wonder this vehicle had other issues later, it's fully self inflicted.
Samuel, both plastic and metal radiator tanks fail, metal is more repairable plastic tends to fail more especially with cheep after market radiators. All aluminum radiators are the best if you can afford them. The cheaper Chinese knock off all aluminum radiators are pretty good.
customer should be happy radiator went when u had it, and not on the road.
Plastic radiators, plastic radiator cap parts, plastic EGR switch. Seems to be a common denominator of plastic that causes problems. Likely it's the engineering and plastic blends that are not up to the task.
Some of these imports have strange egr systems. I hate checking out the three and four port vacuum modulators. Following each hose through the maze of pipes to make sure it didn’t get modified or plugged.
Nice work on this one Ivan. It makes it harder when there are multiple issues.
Thanks Chad! Yeah all the EGR setups are a bit different. 20 minutes of research 5 minutes of testing 👍🙂
Reminded me of my sister's Eclipse GT. Complete (same) Timing kit, valve cover gaskets, all rotors and pads. My brake vid with dumb music and stills, was all I did, and that was years ago... Was a fun project.
Trans fluid & filter. Put on your seat belt!
I really didn´t understand your test here because at the beginning you tested the egr solenoid and it was good, and then you tested again and it was clogged, I am kind of confused and even I don´t know the purpose of this vacuum control valve at 14:07 and I don´t know how the flow in the solenoid operates, I mean I understood that if there is vacuum from the solenoid to the egr, the egr is closed but if I activate the solenoid there is no more vacuum and the egr opens. correct me if I am wrong, thanks
I’m suspicious of a “broken” radiator cap on a car with a cracked radiator. How Convenient!
Lol radiator was fine until I put that new cap on there and it built up some pressure 🤣
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics If the broken cap valve piece was rolling around in the top of the radiator, you could be pretty sure it was a case of the cap failing in service.
If the broken piece was not there, where could it be? Nowhere else for it to go in the system, pretty impossible to fish out. You could then reasonably deduce that it was removed on purpose when the cap was off the radiator by previous owner or shop to mask the cracked radiator top tank.
Ivan felt sorry for the owner after blowing the budget on a new rad, so he just did a Russian repair on the EGR which should last him/her until they save up for a new one! ;-)
22:15 Ivan going shirtless like Putin. LOL!
To fit under that sprayer F&F style first your floor boards would need to blow out at full throttle 🤣
22:22 best 10 seconds on youtube.
Like #35
Thanks for the video!
If the vacuum switching valve you replaced was restricted, which with the tests you performed it was made clear that it was, then how come when you initially tested the solenoid before researching how the system works it held vacuum and released it with battery voltage disconnected? Since it was restricted, wouldn’t the solenoid have not been able to leak out the vacuum during the initial test?
tail gunnwers poem .ww2 my dads .. 6 mitishuies all set to dive ....blip went a browning then there were 5 ...??????????????????miss my dad .
Find the shoehorn Ivan has Mitsubishi eclipse, very nice job
I wonder how many gravities a spin after a blow-out would submit the ejecta (driver) to in little convertible like this. Not that the ejecta would care without a seat belt to slow the velocity! Consider it happens at 60mph. Some Abrasions?
Had a 2004 Eclipse - the electrical egr solenoid control valve was intermittent - caused stalling for years before I found it, a week before I sold the car! The resistance of the coil would change with heat - still don't know how. Bad design as the egr was deactivated when the valve was activated...dumb.
Those 3.0 v6 engines were the same or similar in those old caravans I believe. Always saw them smoking out the tailpipe and many many headgasket failures. Believe Chrysler used them in the Sebring before the 2.7. Junk imo
Had a 95 Plymouth Voyager never had a problem with it
U DA MAN!
Very pretty horse when you first started the test drive. Is it yours or a ' neigh ' bors? Understand what I did there??
Was going to get a Mitsubishi evolution mr decided to get the 2006 subie sti
Dollars to Donuts someone broke the radator cap to keep the radator from leaking under preasure.
Good
oh man you put on that fancy rad cap and bust the poor guys rad lol.
Nothing worse than having ring a customer up with a ever growing list of work that got be done as vehicle more broke than when dropped off until it is lol .
least fixing his idle out of good will helped keep customer relations cool and made more good content .
Great 👍
Great video Ivan.do they make this Continental timing kit 2006 honda odyssey.
Check out Rockauto!
Not to do with this video do you have the Alltel Ultra pro and what do you think seen ScannerDanner Eric O use it don't no you have used it or use it would like your feedback about it if you have any love the channel keep them coming
No seatbelt!!?😱 Tisk Tisk tisk
I was hoping for a timing belt video since I own one of these cars 😢
Nothing special... Except for the roll pin in the crank pulley LOL
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🙏
iput headers on one of thoses ..was fast
thats not how you clean an egr, you need to overhouled it, take it off clean the deposit then reinstall it again
Can someone explain why a restricted solenoid would cause this
Radiator from Auto Zone? You know better than that
Customer supplied
more ice cream with nuts
Next video. Ring job cause its a Mitsubishi
probably matching blown head gasket, likely why someone ripped the check valve out of the rad cap........ dun dun dun.
I bet that thing needs three new spark plugs in the rear as no one can be bothered to change them
Sorry if I didn't word the word that right
For how long WD 40 IS JUST A TEMP FIX
hey pal happy day ..crazy storm last week lost powere 5 dayes .. gen worked good shop took a tree hit .plow truck squashed .. ..all good ..adapt over come surfive .../thank god 4 hurricane insurance ..
nise he told you he messed with screws