1 - Yes, that's the factory brace 2 - That's the AST (Air separation tank). It's a Pettit racing one. It's not necessary and I've been running without one for years. The easiest way to bleed the system is to remove the top coolant tube behind the throttle body (highest point). 3 - The Greddy intake elbow lets you run more intercooler piping o ptions. The stock plastic one is pretty limited. 4 - That's a non resonated midpipe. The stock cat gets air pumped in to it during warmup to help burn fuel & oil in order to reduce emissions. The extra tubes on the midpipe are to connect to the air pump on the engine. They are there so the car doesn't throw codes and the like. 5 - Koyo Rad is great. V-mount is great. A lot of people flip their Koyo rad to go v-mount. That way, it requires minimal work to fit the water necks. 6 - Stock fans are awesome. Everyone runs them. Most aftermarket options are junk compared to the OEM fans. They also fit the Koyo rad perfectly.
Stock fans need better relays. The pack of 4 on the right side are probably melted. The tube by the exhaust goes to the air pump to heat the cat. The wire is for an exhaust over temp sensor.
If they do want to upgrade the fans, the RX8 Series 2 fan motors and blades are a direct drop replacement. Not huge upgrade but worth it if you already in there. Just did this on my FD.
That is the factory strut brace. Really keen to see one of your clean builds on this. Definitely do a bridge port, don't do a rocket bunny kit and spend every minute loving your incredibly beautiful and unique car!
@@howzertech2222 They are not using the car as a daily driver, they're using it as a performance orientated street car with a rough power goal of around 400whp. A Bridgeport for their scenario is the right way to go.
Mark Gibbons you don’t need a Bridgeport to make 350-400whp. It’s just reduces reliability, low end torque and fuel economy. A small street port with the 7670 will do them just fine. Ask me how I know.
2:43 Air Separation Tank ... there is a lot of debate on the forums over removing it or keeping it. Those who keep one usually upgrade to an aftermarket one.
Downpipe looks like an HKS downpipe. A pretty popular choice. I have one on my FD. I have been waiting for this series.... I hope you guys go into a lot of detail... Draw it out.... I need quality FD content....
I knowwww we need many cars to be brought back, just like with video games we need remastered versions. They could put different motors but keep the rest the same. I would want to see fd3s,fc3s,dc2 and many more remade.
I wish they could do like a Heritage Edition or something, a limited run of a (few 😉) thousand units sold in conjunction with the new RX that they’re still cooking up, if they are.. sell the two with the same engines and update a few safety features and BOOM! A masterpiece 🙏🏼
Been waiting for this project! I just picked up an FD last year and can’t wait to see how you build it to get some ideas from you guys. Also, glad you’re sticking with rotary power.
The brace is part of the R1 package patch on the air shroud is because they deleted the stock air box and air duct that crosses over and connects there. The patch is to direct air better to the SMIC
This rotary guy is happy. If you're looking to overhaul the suspension (pillowballs usually need replacement on these higher mileage examples) J-Auto offers them along with pretty much every bushing you'll need!
Awesome timing, I just got my black RHD FD on Saturday. I'm not doing a race build, just going OEM+, but I'm really excited to see what you guys do with this thing.
The air separator tank (ast) is a factory fitted piece, but is plastic and always crack. Yours is just an aftermarket replacement. Bridgeport’s are loud, cranky and will change the way the car drives a lot. I’d leave the ports standard or an extend port and that’s it. I try to discourage cars I build for customers from going turbo Bridgeport. Check for cracks in the power plant frame as they are known to crack, and reinforce it, as well as the diff case and secondary trans mount if you intend on putting power through it. Gears and Gasoline and now you guys... wonder who else will build an FD next ! Look forward to the build.
AST is the tank.. air separation tank.. should be self explanatory but yes it does separate the air cause the Radiator it very low. R1, at least in USA, was for 1993 year. R2, in USA, was for 1994-1995. I have an R1 and it comes with dual oil coolers, better shocks, no sunroof, suede seats, no rear wiper blade. I do know that Japanese models options can be slightly different. Stock fans are pretty good. Replace with an N flow Koyo in my opinion and go shrouded V mount.
twin turbo setup is actuated on an rpm basis. the intake runners are actuated on throttle position, secondaries come in around 30%. depending on the ecu setup the secondary injectors come on at a pre determined duty cycle. the pipe attached to the exhaust is for the A.I.R. system. if you are interested in an alternative intercooler setup to a v-mount check out the pettit cool charge III system.
FD owner since 2000: 1) The turbos are the same size. One is not larger than the other. 2) Yes, that looks like an HKS downpipe. I have a less rusty one in my garage I need to get rid of, too. The other manufacturers did not do a cast head/stock turbo flange like that. 3) Touring/PEP/PEG package only got one oil cooler. R1/R2 gets the dual oil coolers, strut brace, different shocks, non-sunroof car.
I used to be a strict purist when it comes to keeping the 13b in here, but a powerful naturally aspirated K24 does sound amazing in an FD. 230whp and 2450lbs sounds possible and most excellent
Remove the headlight covers if you're gonna work over the engine for a long time, even a small amount of weight will snap the mounting tabs if you lean your hand on them.
The car seems to have usual mods to the exhaust, 3" downpipe, mid pipe and cat back with filters. I bet this is why it blew if it wasn't tuned for those modifications. The factory ECU isn't able to adjust to more than one or two flow mods max, say an intake and a cat back only.
R1/R2 strut tower brace The intake is a petit racing intake Overflow tank is an air separation tank. It clears aeration and some folks eliminate it but no need really The intake manifold gets changed because it cracks and the inside isn’t smooth You do have a 99 plus turbo outlet pipe. The stock one has a rubber connector but yours has a bolt together piece. That’s a win. Mine blew off and landed up spraying oil onto the turbo from the intake.. Twin oil cooler is R1. Which makes me think this is a 93. That “egr”pipe is actually where the air pump injects air to pass us spec emissions. It flows into the cat. You can remove the air pump that’s in front of the turbo at the top. It isn’t pumping anywhere.
The air tank is needed on stock RX7 if the car is tracked... Stock FD RX7 end up spilling their coolant everywhere without them when you park it after a few hard laps... That prevents it. All the stock FD I've brought to the track ended up doing it when this wasn't installed.
God Bless you guys for keeping the Rotary!!! that is the way is supposed to be.... not gonna lie I was worried you were gonna swap it for something els..... glad you cleared that out right at the beggining. Rotary FTW!!
Now this is a different build and going to be very interesting. Rotary and RX-7s are awesome and can't wait for the next episode! If I've missed it, can you tell me where you get these cars and what do you do to them after you finish them?
Watching them do this fills me with a sense of dread given how little they know about a FD. I will second what Howzer said about the Koyo Rad being the goto with stock fans. Also, temp gauge and boost control are the best initial mods for the car. The factory temp gauge is not very good at warning you ahead of time of rising temps. Also, if you track this, get a fuel tank baffle at least. I would recommend a surge tank though. Just grabbed the Radium unit for mine.
Definitely going single turbo (deleting rat's nest). I bet the engine is good and the turbos leaking oil is the main problem. Do a compression test. The exhaust maybe full hks but i didnt see the muffler. Its an R1 model dual oil coolers no sunroof upgraded suspension package
That dude is hilarious. Hes way more focused on trying to make his cars faster by mods/weight loss than actual seat time and how to actually drive the car faster.
@@TforTouge Its just funny to me that hes so obsessed with shedding weight off of the civic to gain a faster time when he should be focusing more on seat time. Those pro/pro am dudes who ran his car before the weight shedding showed you can obtain a fast time without any extra mods.
Kidkato I mean it seems he’s getting a good amount of seat time at Gridlife although I feel like Gridlife is more for people who have had a good amount of track days under their belt. He’s got that sweet UA-cam $ so why not spend it on optimizing the car right?
@@TforTouge I dont know im just old fashioned. I believe that if youre good at something your skills should heavily outweigh the equipment/tools you use.
Can’t wait to see more content on this FD. You might want to keep it black. Since the color black was a more desirable color to have for the FD model. Well in the U.S. market and your home town of Canada 🇨🇦
Excited to see what kind of number you guys put down with the EFR 7670 setup, I have a EFR 8374 and absolutely love it. Go V-mount for extra coolness factor (puns intended) :D
I made 350 whp on the stock air box (which your car doesn't have) with the tiny intake tubes and tracked the car 4 years that way on twins. I don't think the size of the hoses are that restrictive and neither is the factory plastic throttle body elbow. Remember, you have two intake pipes going to two turbos separately. More than enough flow. People get rid of the plastic intake elbow because they want bling polished chrome elbows. The twin turbos max out at about 350whp reliably with a better intercooler and water injection. It's their manifold design that is the key restriction from pushing them harder than 15-16 PSI. After that you don't really make much more power. Just a ton of heat that without a lot of water injection just kills them quickly.
Nice this will be a great build with the 7670. I am about to do a 8374 IWG with the turblown manifold. Before I start I need to figure out what intercooler/radiator to do. I'm thinking v mount... off the shelf is expensive for anything good so looks like a custom job with good quality core is the go with my alloy radiator flipped. Interested to see what you guys do. My greddy elbow arrived today will make life easier over the stock plastic one. I'm sure they are good if you were using an upgraded stock mount.. Cheers
Custom V mount will cost you not too far off an off-the-shelf unit FYI. Make sure you port the internal wastegate or you will forever have boost control and spike issues. The IWG is often too small at lower boost levels to prevent spike or creep.
@@cib2413 hey man hows it going? I'm in Aus so not many options. Any decent kit from overseas is like 4 grand+ by the time I get it here. I can order a plazmaman core (made in aus) drawn to my specs with custom end tanks for 1300. I can do the rest of the fabrication at home so I'm not too concerned I will blow the budget. I don't plan on running low boost. If I encounter spikes or creep there are other ways to control it other than porting the WG.
@@rynorx7 Ok, fair enough. If you have your own fab skills you'll save a lot. I don't so I was commenting on the fact that when I got custom cores priced up with the brackets and pipework by a shop it was basically the same to just buy a Greddy V Mount kit which was only a couple hundred extra.
Oh wow, never seen the stock Turbo setup on an FD before, that looks mental... Looking forward to the build! Hoping that it somehow escalates into a 4-Rotor NA JGTC replica build buuuut you know :P
1 - Yes, that's the factory brace
2 - That's the AST (Air separation tank). It's a Pettit racing one. It's not necessary and I've been running without one for years. The easiest way to bleed the system is to remove the top coolant tube behind the throttle body (highest point).
3 - The Greddy intake elbow lets you run more intercooler piping o ptions. The stock plastic one is pretty limited.
4 - That's a non resonated midpipe. The stock cat gets air pumped in to it during warmup to help burn fuel & oil in order to reduce emissions. The extra tubes on the midpipe are to connect to the air pump on the engine. They are there so the car doesn't throw codes and the like.
5 - Koyo Rad is great. V-mount is great. A lot of people flip their Koyo rad to go v-mount. That way, it requires minimal work to fit the water necks.
6 - Stock fans are awesome. Everyone runs them. Most aftermarket options are junk compared to the OEM fans. They also fit the Koyo rad perfectly.
You should add, go single, twin are a pain in the ass to get them running right
@@eddierotary They are going single and showed their new efr setup at the end.
Stock fans need better relays. The pack of 4 on the right side are probably melted.
The tube by the exhaust goes to the air pump to heat the cat. The wire is for an exhaust over temp sensor.
Howzer Tech, thanks for all your videos, they helped me a lot with my FD. =)
If they do want to upgrade the fans, the RX8 Series 2 fan motors and blades are a direct drop replacement. Not huge upgrade but worth it if you already in there. Just did this on my FD.
That is the factory strut brace. Really keen to see one of your clean builds on this.
Definitely do a bridge port, don't do a rocket bunny kit and spend every minute loving your incredibly beautiful and unique car!
Bridgeport is stupid. I have one, lol. A small/medium street port is what DP & PT should do for their efr setup.
@@howzertech2222 They are not using the car as a daily driver, they're using it as a performance orientated street car with a rough power goal of around 400whp.
A Bridgeport for their scenario is the right way to go.
@@MarkGibbons You keep doing you.
Mark Gibbons you don’t need a Bridgeport to make 350-400whp. It’s just reduces reliability, low end torque and fuel economy. A small street port with the 7670 will do them just fine. Ask me how I know.
@@s13brian I don't know Brian, how?
Let's ignore the fact that I own a performance workshop specialising in rotaries and I personally have an FD SP.
I am expecting a Ken cameo, do not disappoint the OG fans
2:43 Air Separation Tank ... there is a lot of debate on the forums over removing it or keeping it. Those who keep one usually upgrade to an aftermarket one.
Downpipe looks like an HKS downpipe. A pretty popular choice. I have one on my FD. I have been waiting for this series.... I hope you guys go into a lot of detail... Draw it out.... I need quality FD content....
Thank you for not swapping the engine !
I believe some models, but not all, were born with that brace. They are pretty rare.
I wish Mazda would make this car again.
Would take them alotttt of money just to get it emission compliant
True
RX-8 has left the chat
I knowwww we need many cars to be brought back, just like with video games we need remastered versions. They could put different motors but keep the rest the same. I would want to see fd3s,fc3s,dc2 and many more remade.
I wish they could do like a Heritage Edition or something, a limited run of a (few 😉) thousand units sold in conjunction with the new RX that they’re still cooking up, if they are.. sell the two with the same engines and update a few safety features and BOOM! A masterpiece 🙏🏼
I'm so keen for this build boys!!
Been waiting for this project! I just picked up an FD last year and can’t wait to see how you build it to get some ideas from you guys. Also, glad you’re sticking with rotary power.
How about that skid factory shirt😍🇦🇺
Love it! My two favourite channels having a lil crossover moment there
For a split second I thought the title meant Ken was back, aww. Gonna watch anyway because Speed Academy is GREAT!
The brace is part of the R1 package
patch on the air shroud is because they deleted the stock air box and air duct that crosses over and connects there. The patch is to direct air better to the SMIC
Excited to see this series! We had success with the borgwarner 7670 and were able to make 400whp with our S4 FC!! Good luck and Have Fun!!
One of my favorite parts of watching you guys start a new project.
I'm learning so much from just the comments! Love seeing knowledgeable rotary guys!
This rotary guy is happy. If you're looking to overhaul the suspension (pillowballs usually need replacement on these higher mileage examples) J-Auto offers them along with pretty much every bushing you'll need!
Awesome timing, I just got my black RHD FD on Saturday. I'm not doing a race build, just going OEM+, but I'm really excited to see what you guys do with this thing.
The air separator tank (ast) is a factory fitted piece, but is plastic and always crack. Yours is just an aftermarket replacement. Bridgeport’s are loud, cranky and will change the way the car drives a lot. I’d leave the ports standard or an extend port and that’s it. I try to discourage cars I build for customers from going turbo Bridgeport. Check for cracks in the power plant frame as they are known to crack, and reinforce it, as well as the diff case and secondary trans mount if you intend on putting power through it. Gears and Gasoline and now you guys... wonder who else will build an FD next ! Look forward to the build.
I can't wait to see the tear-down of this motor
AST is the tank.. air separation tank.. should be self explanatory but yes it does separate the air cause the Radiator it very low.
R1, at least in USA, was for 1993 year. R2, in USA, was for 1994-1995.
I have an R1 and it comes with dual oil coolers, better shocks, no sunroof, suede seats, no rear wiper blade.
I do know that Japanese models options can be slightly different.
Stock fans are pretty good. Replace with an N flow Koyo in my opinion and go shrouded V mount.
twin turbo setup is actuated on an rpm basis. the intake runners are actuated on throttle position, secondaries come in around 30%. depending on the ecu setup the secondary injectors come on at a pre determined duty cycle. the pipe attached to the exhaust is for the A.I.R. system.
if you are interested in an alternative intercooler setup to a v-mount check out the pettit cool charge III system.
2:50 is the AST, you can get a simple cap for the coolant overflow and route it to the overflow tank in the wheel well. Easy delete.
Digging the lack of timelapse. It's def a welcome change. Excited to keep up with this project.
FD owner since 2000:
1) The turbos are the same size. One is not larger than the other.
2) Yes, that looks like an HKS downpipe. I have a less rusty one in my garage I need to get rid of, too. The other manufacturers did not do a cast head/stock turbo flange like that.
3) Touring/PEP/PEG package only got one oil cooler. R1/R2 gets the dual oil coolers, strut brace, different shocks, non-sunroof car.
I used to be a strict purist when it comes to keeping the 13b in here, but a powerful naturally aspirated K24 does sound amazing in an FD. 230whp and 2450lbs sounds possible and most excellent
Remove the headlight covers if you're gonna work over the engine for a long time, even a small amount of weight will snap the mounting tabs if you lean your hand on them.
No way! Rotary work has begun!
The car seems to have usual mods to the exhaust, 3" downpipe, mid pipe and cat back with filters. I bet this is why it blew if it wasn't tuned for those modifications. The factory ECU isn't able to adjust to more than one or two flow mods max, say an intake and a cat back only.
So excited you guys are working on a Rotary. DP it must have taken a lot of convincing bc I know PT hates rotaries!
I like that you are repping The Skid Factory. That's a great channel too!
0:26 "No we're not going to swap a v8 in there, no we're not going to K-swap it" shots fired!!!! lol
that is a factory tower bar. looking forward to another FD build after Pete's.
R1/R2 strut tower brace
The intake is a petit racing intake
Overflow tank is an air separation tank. It clears aeration and some folks eliminate it but no need really
The intake manifold gets changed because it cracks and the inside isn’t smooth
You do have a 99 plus turbo outlet pipe. The stock one has a rubber connector but yours has a bolt together piece. That’s a win. Mine blew off and landed up spraying oil onto the turbo from the intake..
Twin oil cooler is R1. Which makes me think this is a 93.
That “egr”pipe is actually where the air pump injects air to pass us spec emissions. It flows into the cat. You can remove the air pump that’s in front of the turbo at the top. It isn’t pumping anywhere.
The air tank is needed on stock RX7 if the car is tracked... Stock FD RX7 end up spilling their coolant everywhere without them when you park it after a few hard laps... That prevents it. All the stock FD I've brought to the track ended up doing it when this wasn't installed.
Very excited for this build! It’s gonna be a ripper with that EFR setup! Great video as always, guys.
God Bless you guys for keeping the Rotary!!! that is the way is supposed to be.... not gonna lie I was worried you were gonna swap it for something els..... glad you cleared that out right at the beggining. Rotary FTW!!
Yes! Excited for this project!
So stoked. You guys are awesome and can't wait to see how the fd comes out
I'm glad you guys are doing this I'm excited to learn more about rotary stuff!
Now this is a different build and going to be very interesting. Rotary and RX-7s are awesome and can't wait for the next episode! If I've missed it, can you tell me where you get these cars and what do you do to them after you finish them?
Looking forward to the rests of this series.
So excited for this car and build process. Should be an entertaining fight against an S15.
Watching them do this fills me with a sense of dread given how little they know about a FD. I will second what Howzer said about the Koyo Rad being the goto with stock fans. Also, temp gauge and boost control are the best initial mods for the car. The factory temp gauge is not very good at warning you ahead of time of rising temps. Also, if you track this, get a fuel tank baffle at least. I would recommend a surge tank though. Just grabbed the Radium unit for mine.
You boys just keep on giving. Thanks for all the amazing projects.
That riveted patch on the duct is because the stock setup has a cover that redirects airdrop that hole to the intake.
Is it possible the strut brace is rubbing because the motor mounts are weak allowing excessive motor movement.
really cool video. i love the way you guys set these videos up and go thru everything.
Skid Factory represent!!!
You guys should join the rx7 pages on Facebook, so much information on there for you guys on your new build.
Honestly, that blue color of the front bumper is really nice.. Should keep it that colour or somewhere in the vicinity
So excited for this build
Definitely going single turbo (deleting rat's nest). I bet the engine is good and the turbos leaking oil is the main problem. Do a compression test. The exhaust maybe full hks but i didnt see the muffler. Its an R1 model dual oil coolers no sunroof upgraded suspension package
Wooo rotary. Lookind forward to this series aye! That oem blue is a brilliant colour 👀
Good stuff boys, cant wait to see this build
That's a factory R1 strut bar 1:22
Is this a new build? I'm hyped regardless 😁
Is that a twin scroll turbo you got?
Beautiful E28 in the back 😍😍 Someone should snap it up if it's not already gone. I can only wish. Freude Am Fahren !
where did you buy the manifold ?
Forge makes a good aftermarket BPV with stiffer spring rate for the Borg Warner turbo 👀
I like the FD and FC Mazda RX-7 so much more than a RX-8.
No love for the fb?
Purge Trooper, hmm good point. Even the RX-7 FB is better than a RX-8.
Dreamy it’s a classic
I can already say that I love this build haha
Planning a track battle with short Ben's k swapped rx7? 😁
That dude is hilarious. Hes way more focused on trying to make his cars faster by mods/weight loss than actual seat time and how to actually drive the car faster.
Kidkato Kswapping an RX7 🤮
@@TforTouge Its just funny to me that hes so obsessed with shedding weight off of the civic to gain a faster time when he should be focusing more on seat time. Those pro/pro am dudes who ran his car before the weight shedding showed you can obtain a fast time without any extra mods.
Kidkato I mean it seems he’s getting a good amount of seat time at Gridlife although I feel like Gridlife is more for people who have had a good amount of track days under their belt. He’s got that sweet UA-cam $ so why not spend it on optimizing the car right?
@@TforTouge I dont know im just old fashioned. I believe that if youre good at something your skills should heavily outweigh the equipment/tools you use.
Cheap RX7 + rebuilt engine = good investment ☺
Loving the Skid Factory shirt 🏭
Veilside fortune kit?
Nice little friendly jab at Gears and Gasoline there with the K swap comment haha
Man this motor seems super complicated! I'm interested to learn as I see this series!! Sick single set up tho!!!
Yes it’s Factory strut bar !!
YES! So keen for this build.
Can’t wait to see more content on this FD. You might want to keep it black. Since the color black was a more desirable color to have for the FD model. Well in the U.S. market and your home town of Canada 🇨🇦
How much you want for your rear-diff and your front upper a-arms?
Excited to see what kind of number you guys put down with the EFR 7670 setup, I have a EFR 8374 and absolutely love it. Go V-mount for extra coolness factor (puns intended) :D
Super excited for this series! I love me some rotary content.
What market does the RX7 Episode come from?
Can't wait to see how this car turns out! Loooove fds
you guys should do a Veilside Fotune body kit on the RX7. It is the best looking body kit ever made.
A lot of RX7 guys use the stock fans they are very powerful.
What’s the deal with the lambo?
YESSS EFR IWG TURBO KIT LETS GOOO
Time to bring Ken back! 🤘🤘🤘
I made 350 whp on the stock air box (which your car doesn't have) with the tiny intake tubes and tracked the car 4 years that way on twins. I don't think the size of the hoses are that restrictive and neither is the factory plastic throttle body elbow. Remember, you have two intake pipes going to two turbos separately. More than enough flow. People get rid of the plastic intake elbow because they want bling polished chrome elbows. The twin turbos max out at about 350whp reliably with a better intercooler and water injection. It's their manifold design that is the key restriction from pushing them harder than 15-16 PSI. After that you don't really make much more power. Just a ton of heat that without a lot of water injection just kills them quickly.
For the love god, please go V-Mount with a Turblown turbo kit!
Nice this will be a great build with the 7670. I am about to do a 8374 IWG with the turblown manifold. Before I start I need to figure out what intercooler/radiator to do. I'm thinking v mount... off the shelf is expensive for anything good so looks like a custom job with good quality core is the go with my alloy radiator flipped. Interested to see what you guys do. My greddy elbow arrived today will make life easier over the stock plastic one. I'm sure they are good if you were using an upgraded stock mount..
Cheers
Custom V mount will cost you not too far off an off-the-shelf unit FYI. Make sure you port the internal wastegate or you will forever have boost control and spike issues. The IWG is often too small at lower boost levels to prevent spike or creep.
@@cib2413 hey man hows it going? I'm in Aus so not many options. Any decent kit from overseas is like 4 grand+ by the time I get it here. I can order a plazmaman core (made in aus) drawn to my specs with custom end tanks for 1300. I can do the rest of the fabrication at home so I'm not too concerned I will blow the budget. I don't plan on running low boost. If I encounter spikes or creep there are other ways to control it other than porting the WG.
@@rynorx7 Ok, fair enough. If you have your own fab skills you'll save a lot. I don't so I was commenting on the fact that when I got custom cores priced up with the brackets and pipework by a shop it was basically the same to just buy a Greddy V Mount kit which was only a couple hundred extra.
for sure, another solid build
Oh wow, never seen the stock Turbo setup on an FD before, that looks mental...
Looking forward to the build! Hoping that it somehow escalates into a 4-Rotor NA JGTC replica build buuuut you know :P
Things I know about the FD RX-7:
1) Rotary engine makes cool sounds, lots of power, bring spare fuel.
2) Damn that looks cool.
Nice skid factory shirt dave.
I'm here since the first rotary (Ken's) in that cold shop
Looking forward to this video series. Do you think the 3 dislikes are from people trying to sell their LS engine swaps?
Will we see this build series continue???
SUUUUUUUPER PUMPED FOR ROTARY CONTENT!!!
Is that a e28 in the back❤😍?
I hope you do a left hand drive swap to this car.
Awesome!!!! Im biased but I do love Rotaries !!!! Cant wait to see more boys!
Yes standard strut brace.
this is the content i've been waiting for! liked before the video even started lol
This build is gunna be great! 🙌🏼🙌🏼
does it have the regular mazda logo in the front and the "toilet bowl" in the back?
I'm excited for this one!