Good list, thank you! One of my goals when I started LF was--and still is--to become more intentional about my photography. 2 years into this journey and I find that my notebook is the most important tool I have after the camera itself, anyway. I use it before, during, and after making the photo. It did take me a while to sort out what and how I needed to record the info that works for me.
Agree with all those. #11 number dark slides so you track them through your notes to nega #12 Decide whether the side with the raised dots on is exposed or ready to shoot and stick with that system. Don't listen to how anyone else does it because they will confuse you!
Most, that I have seen, say that the white, silver, one with the bumps, is the unexposed film and that the black side indicates the film is exposed. I adopt the opposite convention. To me, the black side that is smooth, indicates that the film has been in darkness since it's manufacture. The white or silver side with the bumps, indicates that the film has been bombarded with light and the bumps indicate that the film is textured by an image, rather than smooth by being unexposed.
Thank you so much for this great video! I am just starting LF. My dad has a 5x7 camera from the 1970s and my great-grandfather's 4x5 wooden camera from 1910. I am allowed to use both and I am excited to learn LF. I have been shooting 35mm for ages, digital for some years now and MF also for a while. I think everything you said is very valuable. Most rules fit well for 35mm and MF too. I always take notes about developing and lessons learned there as well.
I wish I'd known that I would never be satisfied with scanning negatives and just gone right to contact printing. I also wish I'd had a more realistic outlook on how much total weight of gear I would be comfortable hauling around.
I'm going to confess to you that when your video popped up on UA-cam. I read the title and said "nah". It was only after getting your email that I decided to watch. I'm glad I did. I've been doing this for almost 50 years so I could identify with this list and agree with your list. In my case too often I ignored these caveats only to pay the price later. If I would have followed them things would have been better. I would love to see you dedicate a video for each of these topics.
Excellent advice, they could post that on the wall of any photo school as well another point would be, did you load film? Like the point about the four exposures.
I just developed some film yesterday, and spilled the stop-bath all over the floor in the dark. Lessons? 1) Keep extra chemicals. 2) Know your darkroom well. 3)Don't leave developing tanks near the edges of the counter, where you can bump in to them
Great video. I think you really hit the nail on the head. But you forgot GAS, that is one you really don't know about when you start. Keep up the good work Tim.
I would also add to your statements that it's "all about the light" great pictures, on the whole, have great light, take your example of Ansel Adams picture, Moonrise, Hernandez, what drew him to that capture, I would say it was the light, so add that to your list, PS you sp445 is a great 4x5 tank, love it.
Thanks for this as a old film guy getting back to slowing down I have your tank and have moved to a area on septic do you know of a good and safe way for disposal of chemicals thanks for any help 😎
Ken, our former chemist advised us not to worry about used B&W chemicals in our septic tank. (Color chemicals I dispose of in town.) Some people will try to reclaim the silver in the fix; guess it depends on how much fix you've got.
#5 is the best to me, when I started using LF in the 90s, I tried all kinds of films ... eventually settled on one, HP5+ for me ... good mix of speed and at 4x5 not so grainy!!!
You can get a perfectly useful shutter speed checker on ebay for under $100. Pretty much all large-format shutters are well used now, and it's pretty surprising how wrong some of them are..... as much as 2 stops in some cases. But they're consistently wrong, so if you know what speed they really are it's easy to deal with. And there's no such thing as a five-hundredth of a second. More like 1/280.
@@scottparis6355 I'd say "mostly" consistent. They do vary with temperature and how often they're used. I always fire the shutter 3 times before taking the photo.
Thanks, that's some nice advise. But I don't understand #4 about "box speed". Are you saying, when I use Tri-X 320 for example, I have to set my meter at 160 ASA and not 320 ASA?
Yes, that's what he meant. There are ways to test film and your processing process to find out what the film speed FOR YOU but that's a whole different topic.
Regarding writing everything down, we could never find a notebook we liked, so we designed one: shop.stearmanpress.com/blogs/news/the-ultimate-photographers-logbook
Neither! With most films and most developers, you'll need to de-rate the film to get decent shadow detail. The exception is with our new SP-Ultra 4LF developer: you can shoot at over box speed. Details on our website.
Wise words, must get a notepad, I think someone mentioned an app for this on another UA-cam channel. By the way I have one of your tanks which so far works flawlessly for me, I appreciate the fact it does uses only 500 ml of chemicals.
Yes there are 4 “exposures” #1 “In the camera” I have solved exposure by using B or T and slower speed film #2 “In the tank” is the fixed process, which all the variable the others orbit #3 “In the enlarger “ I can adjust the exposure based on final results #4 “In the tray” I adjust based on my preference With the first 2 of the 4 under control, I have freedom. Poorly exposed/processed film cannot be saved.
I'll add my advice: Don't be afraid to look stupid and ask for advice. You'll be surprised when a LF superstar responds with good advice and a flood of knowledge after your novice dumb question.
Reciprocity failure and bellow factor !!! Two thinks that's messed up your first large format film . Using your digital camera to determining exposures - perfect digital image . Develope your 8x10 negative - shit ! - almost no image ! That ASA 400 film only ASA 100 ??? Shit ! Next load - developed - shit ! Worst ! And you're realized the film is beckvord in the holder .🙂
Good list, thank you! One of my goals when I started LF was--and still is--to become more intentional about my photography. 2 years into this journey and I find that my notebook is the most important tool I have after the camera itself, anyway.
I use it before, during, and after making the photo. It did take me a while to sort out what and how I needed to record the info that works for me.
Brilliant advice, engagingly given.
Agree with all those.
#11 number dark slides so you track them through your notes to nega
#12 Decide whether the side with the raised dots on is exposed or ready to shoot and stick with that system. Don't listen to how anyone else does it because they will confuse you!
numbering is the only way you will know which used holder you have that has the light leak. great advice!
Most, that I have seen, say that the white, silver, one with the bumps, is the unexposed film and that the black side indicates the film is exposed. I adopt the opposite convention. To me, the black side that is smooth, indicates that the film has been in darkness since it's manufacture. The white or silver side with the bumps, indicates that the film has been bombarded with light and the bumps indicate that the film is textured by an image, rather than smooth by being unexposed.
Great video. Thinking about returning to 4x5 after 20 year break. Again great advice!
Thank you so much for this great video! I am just starting LF. My dad has a 5x7 camera from the 1970s and my great-grandfather's 4x5 wooden camera from 1910. I am allowed to use both and I am excited to learn LF. I have been shooting 35mm for ages, digital for some years now and MF also for a while. I think everything you said is very valuable. Most rules fit well for 35mm and MF too. I always take notes about developing and lessons learned there as well.
All good points, especially practice. I've gone digital with note-taking though, I dictate to my phone and transcribe later!
Right on sir brilliant content we all thank keep shooting peace.
I wish I'd known that I would never be satisfied with scanning negatives and just gone right to contact printing. I also wish I'd had a more realistic outlook on how much total weight of gear I would be comfortable hauling around.
Tim Klein’s 10 commandments 🙂 Great to see an improved sound and video that serve your very good content.
Not sure what changed on the sound. Might have been getting noise from a LED light that wasn't turned on this time.
Tim Klein how do you edit your video?
@@toulcaz31 adobe elements
I'm going to confess to you that when your video popped up on UA-cam. I read the title and said "nah". It was only after getting your email that I decided to watch. I'm glad I did. I've been doing this for almost 50 years so I could identify with this list and agree with your list. In my case too often I ignored these caveats only to pay the price later. If I would have followed them things would have been better. I would love to see you dedicate a video for each of these topics.
Thanks Tim Klein (Dutch ancestors?), especially that part about a notebook. I have one, but "forget" to write down the facts ...
"Klein" is my pen name, (my mother was a Kleinsasser, Austrian background.)
Excellent advice, they could post that on the wall of any photo school as well another point would be, did you load film? Like the point about the four exposures.
I just developed some film yesterday, and spilled the stop-bath all over the floor in the dark. Lessons?
1) Keep extra chemicals.
2) Know your darkroom well.
3)Don't leave developing tanks near the edges of the counter, where you can bump in to them
Great video. I think you really hit the nail on the head. But you forgot GAS, that is one you really don't know about when you start. Keep up the good work Tim.
GAS such a serious condition that probably requires its own video. We actually had a comment about it in the notes, but I missed it during filming.
Practice and consistency! that's a great video, Tim... as your SP-810. That's a awesome tool
I would also add to your statements that it's "all about the light" great pictures, on the whole, have great light, take your example of Ansel Adams picture, Moonrise, Hernandez, what drew him to that capture, I would say it was the light, so add that to your list, PS you sp445 is a great 4x5 tank, love it.
Excellent non opinionated but practical advise that is impervious to reasoned criticisms.
Thanks for this as a old film guy getting back to slowing down I have your tank and have moved to a area on septic do you know of a good and safe way for disposal of chemicals thanks for any help 😎
Ken, our former chemist advised us not to worry about used B&W chemicals in our septic tank. (Color chemicals I dispose of in town.) Some people will try to reclaim the silver in the fix; guess it depends on how much fix you've got.
well said
#5 is the best to me, when I started using LF in the 90s, I tried all kinds of films ... eventually settled on one, HP5+ for me ... good mix of speed and at 4x5 not so grainy!!!
Is there an accurate way to check shutter speed that doesn't involve buying special equipment?
We're experimenting with some ideas. We'll let everyone know if we get something to work.
@@timklein185 Thxs
You can get a perfectly useful shutter speed checker on ebay for under $100.
Pretty much all large-format shutters are well used now, and it's pretty surprising how wrong some of them are..... as much as 2 stops in some cases. But they're consistently wrong, so if you know what speed they really are it's easy to deal with.
And there's no such thing as a five-hundredth of a second. More like 1/280.
@@scottparis6355 I'd say "mostly" consistent. They do vary with temperature and how often they're used. I always fire the shutter 3 times before taking the photo.
@@timklein185 Yes. I should have said "IF they're consistently wrong." Thanks.
And "yes" to firing several times before shooting.
Thanks, that's some nice advise. But I don't understand #4 about "box speed". Are you saying, when I use Tri-X 320 for example, I have to set my meter at 160 ASA and not 320 ASA?
Yes, that's what he meant. There are ways to test film and your processing process to find out what the film speed FOR YOU but that's a whole different topic.
Perfect, absolutely agree with you
Regarding writing everything down, we could never find a notebook we liked, so we designed one: shop.stearmanpress.com/blogs/news/the-ultimate-photographers-logbook
No. 4 do you mean push the film or pull it?
Neither! With most films and most developers, you'll need to de-rate the film to get decent shadow detail. The exception is with our new SP-Ultra 4LF developer: you can shoot at over box speed. Details on our website.
@@timklein185 I don't know what de rating is. It sounds made up. Do you mean shoot at speed and push/pull or push/pull film and dev at box speed?
@@pass-my-test Most photographers "derate" the manufacturer's box speed: I usually shoot ISO 200 film at ISO 100.
@@timklein185 you mean pulling. I don't know where you got de rating from.
@@timklein185 analoguewonderland.co.uk/blogs/film-photography-blog/what-is-pushing-and-pulling-film?gclid=Cj0KCQiA2af-BRDzARIsAIVQUOcZwS_dNg8eZ3UV84Jw_WLAoO-0VItfUt5Wr7zEaBRqHLBsej8igzAaApitEALw_wcB
Re: developer recipes and film speed...it's all a compromise between film speed, grain, sharpness, cost, , etc. As you said - personal choices.
Great video! If you can make a video about exposure will be appreciated.Thanks.!
Which exposure? The one before you click the shutter or the four afterwards? Maybe it all fits into one video?
Tim Klein Thank you for your response, if you could start with the exposure before you click the shutter. Thanks a lot!
Wise words, must get a notepad, I think someone mentioned an app for this on another UA-cam channel. By the way I have one of your tanks which so far works flawlessly for me, I appreciate the fact it does uses only 500 ml of chemicals.
I find that a notebook is easier to use in the field but whatever works.
Yes there are 4 “exposures”
#1 “In the camera” I have solved exposure by using B or T and slower speed film
#2 “In the tank” is the fixed process, which all the variable the others orbit
#3 “In the enlarger “ I can adjust the exposure based on final results
#4 “In the tray” I adjust based on my preference
With the first 2 of the 4 under control, I have freedom. Poorly exposed/processed film cannot be saved.
Starts at 2:00
I'll add my advice: Don't be afraid to look stupid and ask for advice. You'll be surprised when a LF superstar responds with good advice and a flood of knowledge after your novice dumb question.
Recondo school grad day in the Nam. practice
Reciprocity failure and bellow factor !!!
Two thinks that's messed up your first large format film .
Using your digital camera to determining exposures - perfect digital image .
Develope your 8x10 negative - shit ! - almost no image !
That ASA 400 film only ASA 100 ??? Shit !
Next load - developed - shit ! Worst !
And you're realized the film is beckvord in the holder .🙂
My right ear is so lonely
Wow, Sherlock figuring out the world.