Electronoobs please check text instructions, and correct the errors on all pages, for example on the third page there is an error after we soldered DC-DC at 5V. Thanks this project 👋
I would definitely support the Kickstarter! This would be a great way to start learning about embedded electronics and I'd end up with a very useful tool
if you are planning to sell it like a kits, it would be great if you can choose in two versions: with soldered SMDs and clean boards without any components.
Now I'm not normally one to comment but you've taught me so much in my time following you. I'm always too financially insecure to sign up for regular payments like Patreon but if I could help you go commercial and make a real living out of what you love then I'd gladly get on board (hehe, puns) with a Kickstarter. All the best buddy, thanks heaps for all the education
You really need to make a kickstarter, that will help people to learn electronics and it’s nice thing to have. Ps: for the kit, add more resistors/caps than needed, just if fail ;)
Make a version 3.1, use the solder pour under the MOSFET to dissipate the heat thruout the board, it makes a good heatsink It's a very cool design and setup! Keep em coming!!!!
I'd totally support the Kickstarter, as long as you change out the mini USB connector for a DC jack or something. Mini USB cables are usually not designed to carry more than 1 amp with its puny wires, so you'd overload the wires. Other than that, it's a great project!
Hi found some problem with the soldering gun, that you may overlooked .If you keep long enough without going on sleep mode the temperature is rising rising slowly and the gun is overheating, glowing red.I found the problem is with the shottky diode there should be in place a 5V zener diode.Otherwise the high voltage(18-20V)is going on the input of the op-amp and this will stop sensing the changing temperature.
Fantastic work, dude!!! Really, really nice! 😃 To be honest, I wouldn't be getting it now because I don't have a soldering station yet, only soldering iron... But once I get one, that would be fantastic! 😃
First of all replace the input jack, maybe a smaller version of v2. I don't know what is the point of that motion sensor, I would replace it with a power on/off button. The last problem is the case, make it round or people will get frustrated when using it and test it under extreme conditions to see if that 3d printed case can handle the heat (if you plan on selling them I think you should use a molding injection with some plastic that is more resistant to heat). A reverse polarity protection would be welcome too if you plan to make it as a kit. In rest great work and thanks for sharing schematics with us.
If you use a atmega32u4 you can flash an Arduino Leonardo bootloader and do programming over the USB port with no external programmer needed. That would also allow easy programming with the Arduino IDE which would be great if you sell this as a DIY kit!
I would really love to see a kickstarter for the kit, but if you do so please make the user program the microcontroller as it would be a very good oportunity to learn how a microcontroller works. Saludos desde Argentina
Just use preflashed atmega, I’ve built the v2 of the soldering iron, and flashing it was horrible (destroyed pads, bridged atmega pins, needed to remove the big atmega from the arduino uno) Ps: I done everything of this for destroying it with 19v (by touching buck) two days later 😭
I am in for the kickstarter. The reason I like this one implemented this ways is you can make small tweaks to the Arduino sketch. I would like to buy 2 or 3 of them.
Great job man, I would just dump the 16Mhz crystal all together, and change voltage converter to 3.3v instead of 5v - then you could burn bare minimum 8Mhz bootloader on your board and save some small amount of space (and few components) ;) following for version 4 :) cheers!
just getting a more modern chip like the STM32 or the cheap AVR Dx series can raise both the bit depth and speed of the internal ADC and the frequency limit of the internal oscillator without compromising the Arduino compatibility.
advise, use a injection molded case instead of 3d printed part, it will make the kit more professional and not like a prototype, and give a rubber grip
That's good work. I like the improvements since V1 very much, especially the vibration sensor. I think the next Version should take some notes from the TS80 but improve on others: 1. USB-C with PD (instead of QC3.0) (There are PD Triggers to "force" 20V per USB, more than enough power) 2. The Case should be a little rounder arround the edges. Then you could use a Power Bank or phone charger for the iron and your phone, your laptop, everything
Why don't you remove pull down resistors and use internal pullups for switches and tilt sensor? It would save some space. And also you could use 7805 voltage regulator in to252 housing instead of step down. It's smaller and cheaper. Also, M7 diode is too weak, it's 1A and you're pulling over 2A at 19V. I'm building one for myself and did the above things and everything works fine. Also added inpult voltage measuring, just wanted to see how my power supply works.
Have you considered using the soldering tip clips used in the cheap t12 handles that are found on aliexpress, etc.? That would make the design thinner if you invested the time to design a fitting pcb...
If you really insist in not doing a proper thermocouple conversion with cold junction temperature compensation you can at least use MATLAB to make a proper log regression or polynomial approximation instead of using excel and two linears.
Dave EEVBlog received this in his mail package for #1254 and hated it. His big point of contention was that there is no insertion stop for the cartridge so it slips right past the contacts, and not much to guide it in general. Minor ones was the bad fitting of the top plate making it prone to bow and slightly wonky seeming temperature control, but that was probably just hysteresis logic or something.
Yeah as Dave said it's way easier and reliable to make its own DIY station than a pen soldering iron. Though the mecanical parts aren't the only weaknesses of this design.
Excellent! video man and great product. Is there a reason why you used a P-CH fet? A N-Ch fet would be more efficient as they can be found with much lower ON resistance. Thus cooler running so could have saved from needing the small heat sink.
IMO you can use for example stm with dfu bootloader for flashing fw without ftdi while powering from PC usb port. I think price for mcu would be lower than ATmega. Well it is just quick though I am not sure if it will be easy to implement from hw side.
I would prefer if it was powered via a micro usb connector at 5v. That would make it easy to power using any usb power bank, not many people carry around a 5s lipo or a 20v supply.
just use 18650 in 4s, get a boost converter to make it 24v, and you can powered it from there, or you can use 6s and get protection board and balance charging board combo for cheap on ebay or amazon
This is a practical limit of micro usb. The connector is limited to 1.8 amps, so not even 10 watts at 5V. This would obviously cripple the iron. He could add support for QC modes that use higher voltages, but that makes things more complicated and you might as well use USB-C.
nobodybodybody no, using fastcharge for delivering 20v with mini usb is really simple, need to see the datasheet from a website, but as I know it’s just bridging 5v data+ and data- (not really sure anymore)
@@alexandrebaux4042 It's a little more complicated than that. You can signal higher-current than the default 500 mA with combinations of bridging lines and some resistors I believe, but the non-standard modes that give you a higher voltage like QC3 all require an active negotiation process between the device and charger IIRC.
nobodybodybody thanks for the info, but are you sure? I’m not QC expert and I trust you completely but I’ve seen this article: www.instructables.com/id/QC-30-Trigger/ and they grab 12v from the charger with just resistors and capacitors. As you know more than me on this, could you tell me if this work/don’t work please?
I'm all for people learning how to work with electronics, but besides the charming DIY-ness, whats the advantage if this design over the ts100 that you link in the description?
That's quite a big mosfet for 20v 2A. There's so8 or smaller packages that would barely get warm at that amperage. even a mosfet with 50mohm rdson would only put out .2 watts at 2 amps. so with a huge mosfet like that its its either the gate not being driven at the correct voltage or its just a really shitty one =/
Maybe next one would be powered with USB PD 100w 20v/5A? That would be perfect soldering iron, but implementing usb pd and finding the tip with the right resistance wouldn't be that easy.
The small size if the buck converter is nice, but last time I tried a similar looking one it had quite bad power usage without a load, it was pulling 0.5W without anything connected to it, which made it actually warm up a bit. How's the performance on this one? Also, it might be cool to look into making an STM32 version, since you get a 12bit ADC which is way faster. If you use the STM32F103 you can probably use the same code as you just compile it with STM32duino, unless you maybe did AVR register manipulation, but the STM is so fast that you might not even need to do that.
I like this project much but I really think misusing Usb Mini Port for 20V is not a great idea because some idiot will plug the modified power supply into a random 5v device. Wouldn’t it be possible to use usb c as the ts80 does?
Michael Bernhardt It is possible to use usb C, but it would be necessary to add components to switch from 5v profile to 20v profile: bigger pcb and more expensive to do (sorry for my english)
Michael Bernhardt I think it would be easyer to hack qualcomm 3 usb fastcharge because it is compatible with mini usb and don’t need aditionnal components (from what I know, simple resistor can do the job, no need to modifiy the pcb) and it can deliver 20v
Nice! For the next version maybe look into implementing USB PD, which can supply a whole *100W* at 20V! (where the T12 uses 70W at 24V) Check out the "FUSB302" IC, seems like a simple way to implement Power Delivery. I saw a nice prototyping breakout board for it. I bet it would work wonders! Looks like it only needs the usual simple support passives, but it has no QFP package option, just BGA *(oof)* and QFN (not too bad). Or USB Quick Charge like the TS80, but that can "only" deliver 18W, however there are Arduino libraries to control it without any external hardware
I'd like to see a good project for an analog T12 soldering station for the work bench that uses a conventional linear supply. I do electronic repairs on older audio equipment, guitar amps, synthesizers with thru-hole PCBs and point-to-point wiring etc. I want to reach and turn a dial when I need more heat. Not press buttons. I don't believe precise temperature to the degree is necessary for soldering. Maybe just index lines around a dial which can be roughly calibrated.
I've already seen an OSHW project like this but AFAIR with conventional +/- buttons. Though implementing a rotary encoder instead or a multipositions dial selector with fixed programmed temp settings is really not complicated.
yeah it definitely looks like one. It's not even being discrete about it. Everyone, just spend the $75 or so and buy a TS100, and a used 19v-20v 45-60watt laptop power supply with a matching barrel plug. and this custom firmware github.com/Ralim/ts100/releases
How much are you drawing from the 5V rail? The voltage converter is efficient but a linear regulator can be smaller.... Although a 15V drop might create some problematic heat if you more than several 10's of milliamps.
I like it, except case :). BTW you can input code for 3 clicks button to lock both buttons. It is helpful function in case you press from mistake buttons during use.
Want to help my workshop: www.patreon.com/ELECTRONOOBS
Thank you so much!
Great brother but $3or$4 I buy a new one 😁
Great work ,,,, please continue high amp ESC project
Electronoobs please check text instructions, and correct the errors on all pages, for example on the third page there is an error after we soldered DC-DC at 5V. Thanks this project 👋
@@sdqf Hi. Thanks. I don't really understand where is the error?
Kickstarter please!!
Seems the kickstarter is the best way to go it will help many people get started into electronics and produce something of value at the end.
This would be a perfect project for a kickstarter. Go for it hombre!
I would definitely support the Kickstarter! This would be a great way to start learning about embedded electronics and I'd end up with a very useful tool
Beautiful design and shown in a very structured way, I would like to support your project.
if you are planning to sell it like a kits, it would be great if you can choose in two versions: with soldered SMDs and clean boards without any components.
yes.
Yes it will be great
Now I'm not normally one to comment but you've taught me so much in my time following you. I'm always too financially insecure to sign up for regular payments like Patreon but if I could help you go commercial and make a real living out of what you love then I'd gladly get on board (hehe, puns) with a Kickstarter. All the best buddy, thanks heaps for all the education
You really need to make a kickstarter, that will help people to learn electronics and it’s nice thing to have.
Ps: for the kit, add more resistors/caps than needed, just if fail ;)
I would for sure support a kickstarter! Building it and programming would be a lot of fun. Plus a very nice portable iron at the end for field work!
I would not use a mini USB connector, not everybody have a plug and it's not designed for handling high voltages
Yes, will support the Kickstarter! Awesome
I would totally support your Kickstarter
I've enjoyed watching the iterations of this iron, I'd get a KS Kit.
yep make kickstarter asap
I wish I can do all of this, but I'll still support your channel for being awesome. Keep up the great work.
Make a version 3.1, use the solder pour under the MOSFET to dissipate the heat thruout the board, it makes a good heatsink
It's a very cool design and setup!
Keep em coming!!!!
Thankfully it's the last one
Electronoobs always rocks.. Thanks sir
I would love to support you on Kickstarter... You deserve it!
I'd totally support the Kickstarter, as long as you change out the mini USB connector for a DC jack or something. Mini USB cables are usually not designed to carry more than 1 amp with its puny wires, so you'd overload the wires. Other than that, it's a great project!
Nice imprument and beautiful project demonstration
Great work my friend! a lot improvements
Hi found some problem with the soldering gun, that you may overlooked .If you keep long enough without going on sleep mode the temperature is rising rising slowly and the gun is overheating, glowing red.I found the problem is with the shottky diode there should be in place a 5V zener diode.Otherwise the high voltage(18-20V)is going on the input of the op-amp and this will stop sensing the changing temperature.
Just WOW. Keep up good work. Greetings from Poland.
I like the kickstarter camp idea 💡👍
Fantastic work, dude!!! Really, really nice! 😃
To be honest, I wouldn't be getting it now because I don't have a soldering station yet, only soldering iron... But once I get one, that would be fantastic! 😃
Great Job once again. Just a sugestion, change the usb port to type C
Very nice prjcet, from the start to this last version!! :) i will for sure support you if needed in a kickstarter campaign!!
Excellent Bro, Go For It in Kick Starter...
Great work... Please continue ESC project
I would buy this in a kit in a heartbeat.
First of all replace the input jack, maybe a smaller version of v2. I don't know what is the point of that motion sensor, I would replace it with a power on/off button. The last problem is the case, make it round or people will get frustrated when using it and test it under extreme conditions to see if that 3d printed case can handle the heat (if you plan on selling them I think you should use a molding injection with some plastic that is more resistant to heat). A reverse polarity protection would be welcome too if you plan to make it as a kit. In rest great work and thanks for sharing schematics with us.
Thank you for all the tips!
If you use a atmega32u4 you can flash an Arduino Leonardo bootloader and do programming over the USB port with no external programmer needed. That would also allow easy programming with the Arduino IDE which would be great if you sell this as a DIY kit!
I might get the kit if there was a version with all components soldered to the board. I just have no experience soldering tiny parts.
Sure the MOSFET becomes hot since it is not totally ON. You have to use MOSFET Bootstrapping and a MOSFET that has very low RDS on
I would really love to see a kickstarter for the kit, but if you do so please make the user program the microcontroller as it would be a very good oportunity to learn how a microcontroller works.
Saludos desde Argentina
Just use preflashed atmega, I’ve built the v2 of the soldering iron, and flashing it was horrible (destroyed pads, bridged atmega pins, needed to remove the big atmega from the arduino uno)
Ps: I done everything of this for destroying it with 19v (by touching buck) two days later 😭
kindly use "micro USB" or "USB Type C" female.
and kindly add "min" words in sleep mod setting.
Thank you. for teacher for information. I am from LAOS PDR
I am in for the kickstarter. The reason I like this one implemented this ways is you can make small tweaks to the Arduino sketch. I would like to buy 2 or 3 of them.
It's a pleasure see this kind of projects. Could you make a weather station using arduino?
there are hundreds on utube
I want to buy this one.. so good!!
Great job man, I would just dump the 16Mhz crystal all together, and change voltage converter to 3.3v instead of 5v - then you could burn bare minimum 8Mhz bootloader on your board and save some small amount of space (and few components) ;)
following for version 4 :) cheers!
I did the same. Do you know how the temperature is measured? There is no temperature sensor on the board?
just getting a more modern chip like the STM32 or the cheap AVR Dx series can raise both the bit depth and speed of the internal ADC and the frequency limit of the internal oscillator without compromising the Arduino compatibility.
Excellent item
I loved it.. I support kick starter
I think your blockbuster video is fantastic.
Fantastic!! and very clever , I would like to support your project.
advise, use a injection molded case instead of 3d printed part, it will make the kit more professional and not like a prototype, and give a rubber grip
can we use another usb to ttl for upload the program ?
That's good work. I like the improvements since V1 very much, especially the vibration sensor.
I think the next Version should take some notes from the TS80 but improve on others:
1. USB-C with PD (instead of QC3.0) (There are PD Triggers to "force" 20V per USB, more than enough power)
2. The Case should be a little rounder arround the edges.
Then you could use a Power Bank or phone charger for the iron and your phone, your laptop, everything
Why don't you remove pull down resistors and use internal pullups for switches and tilt sensor? It would save some space. And also you could use 7805 voltage regulator in to252 housing instead of step down. It's smaller and cheaper.
Also, M7 diode is too weak, it's 1A and you're pulling over 2A at 19V.
I'm building one for myself and did the above things and everything works fine. Also added inpult voltage measuring, just wanted to see how my power supply works.
I wanna buy one pls put this on kickstarter 👍👍👍 but could you one that comes folded? For people who dont have hot blower machine ?
Have you considered using the soldering tip clips used in the cheap t12 handles that are found on aliexpress, etc.? That would make the design thinner if you invested the time to design a fitting pcb...
excellent as always, me encantaría ver un video que diseñes un código propio de PID...
This time the banana was really helpful. And oh yes the kickstarter would be very interesting indeed
If you really insist in not doing a proper thermocouple conversion with cold junction temperature compensation you can at least use MATLAB to make a proper log regression or polynomial approximation instead of using excel and two linears.
Smart guy. Loving the channel..
its a great idea but should be budget friendly
uttham rcks made the v2 for $30
This Kickstarter iron needs another to make this one .
Dave EEVBlog received this in his mail package for #1254 and hated it. His big point of contention was that there is no insertion stop for the cartridge so it slips right past the contacts, and not much to guide it in general. Minor ones was the bad fitting of the top plate making it prone to bow and slightly wonky seeming temperature control, but that was probably just hysteresis logic or something.
Yeah as Dave said it's way easier and reliable to make its own DIY station than a pen soldering iron. Though the mecanical parts aren't the only weaknesses of this design.
Love it, gonna order one soon, love your videos
Excellent! video man and great product. Is there a reason why you used a P-CH fet? A N-Ch fet would be more efficient as they can be found with much lower ON resistance. Thus cooler running so could have saved from needing the small heat sink.
IMO you can use for example stm with dfu bootloader for flashing fw without ftdi while powering from PC usb port. I think price for mcu would be lower than ATmega. Well it is just quick though I am not sure if it will be easy to implement from hw side.
You're awesome bro!
nice work , i love it
I would prefer if it was powered via a micro usb connector at 5v. That would make it easy to power using any usb power bank, not many people carry around a 5s lipo or a 20v supply.
just use 18650 in 4s, get a boost converter to make it 24v, and you can powered it from there, or you can use 6s and get protection board and balance charging board combo for cheap on ebay or amazon
This is a practical limit of micro usb. The connector is limited to 1.8 amps, so not even 10 watts at 5V. This would obviously cripple the iron. He could add support for QC modes that use higher voltages, but that makes things more complicated and you might as well use USB-C.
nobodybodybody no, using fastcharge for delivering 20v with mini usb is really simple, need to see the datasheet from a website, but as I know it’s just bridging 5v data+ and data- (not really sure anymore)
@@alexandrebaux4042 It's a little more complicated than that. You can signal higher-current than the default 500 mA with combinations of bridging lines and some resistors I believe, but the non-standard modes that give you a higher voltage like QC3 all require an active negotiation process between the device and charger IIRC.
nobodybodybody thanks for the info, but are you sure? I’m not QC expert and I trust you completely but I’ve seen this article: www.instructables.com/id/QC-30-Trigger/ and they grab 12v from the charger with just resistors and capacitors. As you know more than me on this, could you tell me if this work/don’t work please?
I'm all for people learning how to work with electronics, but besides the charming DIY-ness, whats the advantage if this design over the ts100 that you link in the description?
That's quite a big mosfet for 20v 2A. There's so8 or smaller packages that would barely get warm at that amperage. even a mosfet with 50mohm rdson would only put out .2 watts at 2 amps. so with a huge mosfet like that its its either the gate not being driven at the correct voltage or its just a really shitty one =/
Maybe next one would be powered with USB PD 100w 20v/5A?
That would be perfect soldering iron, but implementing usb pd and finding the tip with the right resistance wouldn't be that easy.
The small size if the buck converter is nice, but last time I tried a similar looking one it had quite bad power usage without a load, it was pulling 0.5W without anything connected to it, which made it actually warm up a bit. How's the performance on this one?
Also, it might be cool to look into making an STM32 version, since you get a 12bit ADC which is way faster. If you use the STM32F103 you can probably use the same code as you just compile it with STM32duino, unless you maybe did AVR register manipulation, but the STM is so fast that you might not even need to do that.
Просто нет слов, красавчик!
Very nice ! but why not 7805 regulator IC ?
If the price is right, I would totally support the Kickstarter
I like this project much but I really think misusing Usb Mini Port for 20V is not a great idea because some idiot will plug the modified power supply into a random 5v device. Wouldn’t it be possible to use usb c as the ts80 does?
True. After more tests, I realized nthe DC plug from version 2 is still the best option. Thanks!
Michael Bernhardt It is possible to use usb C, but it would be necessary to add components to switch from 5v profile to 20v profile: bigger pcb and more expensive to do (sorry for my english)
Alexandre Baux yes i know. But maybe one could figure out what to send over the data lines and use the armega for it? Not sure if possible.
Michael Bernhardt I think it would be easyer to hack qualcomm 3 usb fastcharge because it is compatible with mini usb and don’t need aditionnal components (from what I know, simple resistor can do the job, no need to modifiy the pcb) and it can deliver 20v
Really inspiring work 😊😊
Hi, I think this is the time for you to make the 4th version of this. Using USB type C and power delivery would be interesting
please do a kickstarter i love this project
Wow anather great project this one I will.make
Looks quite good, just the case should be a bit more smooth. Tell me, when you are on version 15 ;-)
Nice! For the next version maybe look into implementing USB PD, which can supply a whole *100W* at 20V! (where the T12 uses 70W at 24V)
Check out the "FUSB302" IC, seems like a simple way to implement Power Delivery. I saw a nice prototyping breakout board for it. I bet it would work wonders!
Looks like it only needs the usual simple support passives, but it has no QFP package option, just BGA *(oof)* and QFN (not too bad).
Or USB Quick Charge like the TS80, but that can "only" deliver 18W, however there are Arduino libraries to control it without any external hardware
make sure it works with hakko tips and grips and you will have a winner thats better than the ts100
I'd like to see a good project for an analog T12 soldering station for the work bench that uses a conventional linear supply. I do electronic repairs on older audio equipment, guitar amps, synthesizers with thru-hole PCBs and point-to-point wiring etc. I want to reach and turn a dial when I need more heat. Not press buttons. I don't believe precise temperature to the degree is necessary for soldering. Maybe just index lines around a dial which can be roughly calibrated.
I've already seen an OSHW project like this but AFAIR with conventional +/- buttons. Though implementing a rotary encoder instead or a multipositions dial selector with fixed programmed temp settings is really not complicated.
Very good) You make a grate work to create this solder) i like it.
what about using type c plug
Yes we need Kickstarter
💯
Good work :)
You can use smaller chip for smalle board so you can put battery in
Is this just a ts100 clone?
yeah it definitely looks like one. It's not even being discrete about it.
Everyone, just spend the $75 or so and buy a TS100, and a used 19v-20v 45-60watt laptop power supply with a matching barrel plug. and this custom firmware
github.com/Ralim/ts100/releases
Great work 👍❤️
Hello, could you share, szema, progivka and printed plpta milking repetitions, I really liked your project , the soldering iron turned out just super
Really useful thank you so much !!
Great Video..Can you explain about the Thermocouple used in T-12 Tip With heater..which type of Thermocouple used? K or C or J.....
i feel you can do the kickstarter it will help alot
good
When is kickstarter? Really would like to buy the assembled version.
Really late, but I would definitely be interested in a kickstarter for this!
good job man, but do you want to add a battery module and c245 tips support?
How much are you drawing from the 5V rail? The voltage converter is efficient but a linear regulator can be smaller.... Although a 15V drop might create some problematic heat if you more than several 10's of milliamps.
Add some idle sensor, for extend battery and battery level monitor
How to get that iron?
I like it, except case :). BTW you can input code for 3 clicks button to lock both buttons. It is helpful function in case you press from mistake buttons during use.