Homemade Reflow HOT Plate - Version 2 | Low Cost
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- Опубліковано 30 тра 2024
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🔥I've made another PID Reflow Hot Plate but this time uisng a cheap aluminum heating plate. We can use the LCD to see the values, control power with a solid state relay and read the temperature witha thermistor.
🔀LINKS
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Tutorial website: electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_...
3D STL Parts: / 57427023
Code: / 57427023
Part List: electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_...
Schematic: electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_...
How to measure a Thermistor: electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_t...
True/False T-Shirt: teespring.com/es/it-s-funny-b...
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00:00 Intro
02:07 New heating plate
03:50 What we need?
07:36 Assemble
11:45 How to read a Thermistor
12:48 Assemble & Code
15:38 Tests & Results
18:09 Thank You
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#Arduino
#reflow
#homemade - Наука та технологія
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Hay Electronoobs. I am waiting for 4 month when U make a clear and very Detailed video oven building a reflow oven!!
Plese bro!
Make one with regular home oven.there are someone make a very good looking open source reflow oven (ua-cam.com/video/BncBolIe5Jo/v-deo.html) .U can make that!!🙂
I am waiting for U bro!
can it go up to 500 degrees
does anyone know where i can get the metal plate and cotton insulation for this project? Please
@Elektronoobs, i maybe got a great idea for laser cutting pcb's, but i need this reflow heater wich i don't have. maybe you can test this and have a 5.000.000 view video...
i think it must be possible to cut the outline of pcb traces with a 20W/5,5W diode laser with heat assist. heat the pcb to a few hundred degrees C so we need less laser power.
i have seen people succeed engraving pcb (cutting the copper away what was not a trace) like butter with the use of a 30W fiber laser. so i think this might be possible, but lack this heater. will you test this? if you succeed your'e the first one!
It may be an idea to add a mains fuse for safety as well as earth the heat plate, otherwise a great project. Thanks for sharing!
Why earth?
@@omniyambot9876
Any exposed metal has the potential to become live under a fault condition. The heater is connected to the live and neutral, any breakdown in the insulation has the potential to make the heat bed become live. Earthing the heat plate ensures that if this should happen the current will flow to earth either blowing the fuse or tripping the main circuit breaker, protecting the user. In the uk class 1 products need to have an earth, I.e any electrical item that has exposed metal parts that could potentially become live. Hope this helps, all the best!
@@paulmathison2906 thank you my master!
@@paulmathison2906 Yes. You WANT live to short to earth all by itself rather than short through someone to earth :) Flipping off the breaker is better than flipping off someone's heart.
@@paulmathison2906 use a trenntrafo
All projects with heaters should include a one-time or resettable thermal cut-off, such as a normally-closed, manual-reset temperature switch attached to the heater and in series with its power circuit. This is *especially* true when using solid-state relays, which tend to fail closed and must have backup cut-offs to avoid runaway. Mechanical relays are noisier and less durable, but they are safer as they tend to fail in the open position.
I work as industrial maintenence and this is absolutely true. 99% when i had to replace mechanical coil relay it failed in open position. 100% of times i needed to replace dead SSR it failed in closed position.
Yes, run the heater power through a 300c thermal fuse that is taped/thermal conductive silicone to the bottom of the heat plate.
[300c is well high enough to melt the solder but just under the ability to ignite combustibles]
I think since he uses PTC heater then he wouldn't face thermal runaway
If this thing runs away I suggest unplugging it lol it’s not hot enough or permanent enough to really be that dangerous, of course burns are possible
I agree with all these safety suggestions, but as long as you never leave it unattended, and simply unplug it when you're not actually using it, I think you'll be ok. Just one other thing: my younger brother, who was living at home with parents at the time, burned the parent's house almost completely down because he left an old, badly wired soldering iron on, unattended. He's always been very careless though... But it just goes to show what can happen when safety features are not built in.
On another topic, I really like this project and could use one myself! My problems are as follows: in the house that we are now living, we have no space for our belongings, and it's very crowded and chaotic. I had to leave my shop at the previous house because it was too far to move, and we don't even have a yard large enough for it even if we could've moved it. My "workbench" is a small piece of plywood on top of a file cabinet, barely room to solder! It's next to my desk in the "office," with barely enough floor space to even get to the desk & "work bench."
The space problem is also why I've never had a 3D printer. If I move enough stuff out of the garage into the driveway (I have to move my truck first, since the driveway is so short), I can use my drill press. Everything is such a pain, to try to get anything done. These days I mostly watch other ppl build stuff, I can only work on my projects on paper or in my head!
I haven't looked yet to see if you've shared your files for the 3D parts, but maybe I can find someone to print the parts for me, cuz I like your design! As far as the schematic, I can work that out myself, depending on the parts I find. I only need 120VAC for power, and I would likely use a different microprocessor. (I rarely use Arduino.)
Anyway, thanks for sharing everything, it's a great idea and you showed how easily it can be implemented--all you need is a 3D printer and basic tools! ( And I guess you have to know what you're doing, lol, which I'm good on!)
Keep up the good work!
>>Jeffro
Great project, however I strongly recommend anyone who wants to build it to implement at least a minimum of safety features found in any consumer product to reduce the chance of electrocution or fire (grounding of all exposed metal parts, one or more fuses to account for common errors, galvanic isolation between Arduino and 220 V net (depending on how much you trust the isolation of the SSR), adding clearance and creepage distance between 220V and 5V net on the prototype board (ideally splitting the board and have a few millimeter air gap), properly mounting 220V lines (I wouldn't trust hot glue with my live), add some electrical isolation between temperature probe and heat plate (not needed when plate is grounded) ....
Maybe implementing all of this is overkill but at the very least please ground the metal parts, this increases the safety significantly.
This is why laymen should NEVER build projects involving mains electricity, especially devices containing heating elements.
Because a layman does not have any knowledge of the dangers and risks associated with mains electricity.
Not only the serious safety issues. But other issues are that the PWM Minimum duty cycle goes too low for the zero crossing SSR to function properly. and the MAIN Issue is those hotplates wont achieve the temperature delta needed for a proper (or any) reflow profile at 120V (US power). a power series resistor *could solve this?
@@williamgates97 Ah. So those plates can't be used on 110/120?
Interesting Project! However, I would suggest that you use the glass transition temperature instead of the printing temperature when choosing a material for the case. The glass transition temperature is the temperature at which the material starts to soften and loose it´s strength, while at the printing temperature the material is already so soft that it can easily flow through the printer nozzle. For ABS the glass transition temperature is already at ~105°C, so I would be a bit careful when leaving the heater on for extended periods of time, as the radinant heat from the heater could soften the plastic around the top of the case where your metal plate is screwed in. To avoid the metal plate from falling and shorting out your circuit board I would maybe consider adding some way of supporting it from the bottom.
My thoughts exactly, probably some dedicated 3D printing material would be better - still, not many of them can wistand up to ~170°C, but, surprisingly wood is a nice alternative because it's ignition point is somewhere between 200-260°C and it is an easy material to work with ... the problem now is when it reaches this temparature range it will ignite, not melt.
Put a glass Pyrex bowl (upside down) over the plate and PCB, that removes all the instability of room air currents and you will get more reliable and repeatable soldering.
It also means you can use less total heat under the PCB so less chance of PCB burn and de-lamination problems.
Brilliant! A simple and elegant idea to cover up the hot plate with a square Pyrex bowl! 👍
@@miscluke8445 yeah and for really small PCBs you can even use a drinking glass, or a screwtop glass jar etc. They are heat proof enough for PCB temperatures.
@@wizrom3046 Yeah, and make sure to wear an oven mitt when you remove the pyrex jar, lol! (Speaking of safety...)
You need to connect a ground wire to the hot plate because it is made of metal! Good project👍👍👍
The plate is already grounded bc the connecting wire's ground is already connected to it
@@joran4612 Yes, but the plug is not grounded so the plate ground is not connected to the socket ground
Another great video! I really enjoyed watching this build. You even threw in a short thermistor tutorial! Thanks for sharing.
Neat build. As others mentioned, the glass transition temperature, i.e. the point where the plastic softens, is the crucial parameter to consider. PLA, ABS etc. can be successfully annealed to push the threshold higher, particularly improving PLA, so that would be an option if it proved necessary.
I really like this idea over a reflow oven for prototyping PCB's.
These guides are thorough and easy to understand, thank you.
Excellent project!
Might I suggest adding a mode for a fixed temperature. This could be useful if you want to replace a broken mobile phone screen and need to heat it to soften up the glue.
I will definitely be building this.
Believe it or not, I use a 3d printer bed, Arduino tempt control and then cover the phone to do exactly this. Pretty much the best setup I have ever used, even works better than a couple of commercial systems built to purpose I have used.
If i were you, I wouldn't build it. This project has so many dangerous mistakes (some people have already reported them but this guy doesn't say anything about that). First, if you work with AC, please ground every metal component. Also, if you are working with heaters and solid state relays put a thermal fuse as that kind of relays fail closed so you could end up burning your house. Last, ABS starts deforming at ~100°C so that housing will last next to nothing
Reflow hot plate version 2. This looks awesome. 🤩🤩 Keep it up.
Hard work and efforts in this project payed off
Nice little hot plate. I agree with all the others about adding a 3-prong cord, fuse and grounding the hotplate for safety! I added a second mode for doing low temp solder (138C) and it all works great. Thanks for the great idea.
Can you upload the code for low temp solder?
Thank you man, I will definitely build this. I have just a little amount of smd projects and this thing is a good start befor buying a pricey one
Amazing project! Just built and works perfectly! Thanks for sharing!
Very thorough exploration of device's capabilities.
I have not seen it mentioned in the video or in the comments, but I have used the same hotplate (and a smaller version about half size) with just a power switch. It uses a PTC heater so the resistance (and power) drops as it heats up. If I remember correctly, I think mine self regulates at 260C so keeping power on is not as terrible as the hot iron version. I believe it will still get to operating temp at 110v but will just take longer to get there.
The plastic pipes welding machine that use the plumbers is an excellent temperature adjustable heating plate with flat surface that can do reballing bga or prebaking,led strips repair,soldering pcb and of course can do the job that is intended for.
Awesome little project. IMO a hot plate is a must even if one has a reflow oven, especially for reworking. Currently I'm designing a single board computer for an embedded biopotential logger. I think this project will be useful if I want to assemble the board myself. Now, if only the ICdemic would cease, so that I can source my parts.
these are the kinds of dyi stuff that i have zero use for and i know i wont ever make it but i still love watching these videos and learning how to make them xD
Great project! The only thing I’d do differently is using a grounded power cord and hook up the ground lead to the metal frame. This will ensure user’s safety when placing and removing boards from the heating surface.
And will also help protect boards from ESD damage.
Hadn't thought of that. It's aluminum though. Should be alright because it's aluminum, right?
You are magican ! Cheers from Poland brother !!!!
Excellent !! Have you read my mind !?? I just buy a hot plate on Aliexpress last week to do that 😄 thank you ! As a result, I just going to follow your project, it's very cool 👏👏👍
Nice project! Might I add a few suggestion...
Ground wire
Fuse
Use the same pcb for buttons instead of using 3d printed so little lest plastic wast and you can drill holes. I'll might do this project
I love the way you engineer things from the ground up, I do the very same thing. I think Edison or Tesla would love having you help them in the lab. Sometimes I get stumped on a project , it would be great if you were around to add some advice.
Bravissimo, è un progetto molto molto bello, semplice e soprattutto utilissimo, grazie.
I made one for myself and it works well. Thanks a lot !
Love the shirt! One thing to keep in mind is that cheap Chinese reflow plates can be bought cheaply from china and often are hard to beat. Still, this is a really cool project and can be really useful for smaller PCBs where you do not need a big bulky device.
That is one of those plates. Basically he added some electronics so it has a reflow curve
Great project as always!
Another great project. I really like this one. Thanks.
Amazing project.. I wanted to own one of these but they were too damn expensive.. but now I can build my own..
Thinking of making a custom PCB and adding a few headers to make the wiring a bit better and probably some fuses as well.
Thanks a bunch..
Excellent project!! Excelente proyecto, saludos desde buenos aires, argentina.
I love you channel a lot! Great ideas - great work - great results. I follow it because I want to learn more EE knowledge.
Since I am an mechanical designer (automotive) I guess you know I would design the housing a slightly different way. If you interested in I could support with this king of simple mechanical concepts.
Kind regards from Austria
Loved your project
Great looking beard! good video as well, keep up the good work!
Great project - well done :)
Like always awsome video!
Nice project, well done!
Excellent project, thank you for sharing.
Excellent project 👍
awesome!! totally a project I want to do sometime, great video!!
A very creative project. Great!
Perhaps for safety should ground the heating plate? Otherwise nice work!
Yes, thank you! I will do that!
Great project, well done
This is an interesting project. Thanks for the video.
Very nice project! I am interested to try and make one for myself.
Nice newly revise soldering plate
Keep it up buddy ur rocking it..
Beautiful project
Brilliant. Everything very good and professional 👏🔥. I will avoid “mode” and I will use temp degree or maybe with a more precise name.
even though I don't use SMD components yet (I am a bit old fashioned) this is a great project
AMAZING , A PROFEESIONAL
TY for the idea. While trying to adapt this project for my needs, I actually stumbled upon some stuff, maybe it could be helpful to sb :
a) regarding protection : the often mentioned grounding of the plate : complete nonsense, as the plate is aluminium and non-conductive.
b) ssr protection and runaway protection would be a great idea though (required !!). Runaway protection and "ssr dying in open state"-protection can be done with a 280°/300° thermal fuse
c) the way you are trying to pwm the hot plate does not work at all. Why ? Because:
The SSR has a defined signal level and is much too slow to react the way you suppose it to react. It will basically just be switched on full power all the time until the thermistor reaches the desired target temp with your code. What is required here is not a pwm heater control, but a full on/off duty cycle control mechanism.
PWM means "pulse-width-modulation". Think of it as switch being switched sooo fast, it results in a very high frequent pulse. If you are e.g. having a pulse of 50% ON and 50% OFF state of a 5V based pin - this will result in 2.5V pulsed modulated voltage. So, if you are doing e.g. a PWM of 70% on an arduino analog pin, you will get a pulse modulated output of 70% of 5V = 3.5V.
3.5V will be recognized as signal high => ssr switches on (100%, not 70%). If you`re using a low level input SSR things are just the opposite way, with same problem.
What is required here, is a very simple on/off duty cycle instead, that switches the SSR with a very slow frequency, eg. 1Hz.
I am doing a follow up on your project right now, with few changes :
- improve i2c circuit of your example (I know myself, that it works like you did in your schematics, but "better" i2c circuit is done with 2 pullup resistors, eg. 4.7kOhms to 5V and the SDA& SCL pins of both master and slave I2C connected to the other end of the resistor.
- replace buttons with rotary encoder and menu based control
- add i2c eeprom to save temp curves
- add wemos d1 mini clone with esp-link as wifi bridge (allow remote control & remote flashing of both the Nano & the Wemos D1) - the nano is being used as kind of an "analog slave" to provide more analog pins with 5V and operate completely independent from wifi (to not introduce connection based issues during heating process etc). All heater controls is done using the actual Nano circuit only - the nano does not rely on wifi being established during active processes.
- improve heater code
- basic idea stays the same though and the wemos d1 mini and the rotary & the eeprom are really cheap additions.
as soon as I am done, I will be glad to send you some notes & pictures, if desired.
excellent project build.
Interesting idea. A couple of remarks; the hot plate screws would look nicer if flush with the plate itself, not only for aesthetic reasons but also functionality. Dealing with hot stuff, you don't want your PCB's to bump into anything and get burned by accident. The cables inside could be tidier, but I get that you aren't selling the product, and you want it up and running asap. Using thermal paste could help with the heat transfer and the PID control if you want to go that extra mile. Personally, I would have gone for a generic metal case instead of the plastic one, just because I don't know at what point the plastic could release some harmful vapours even if it doesn't melt. Also, the display could benefit from being backlit. Overall, a job well executed, please take these remarks as suggestions for a possible iteration. I will actually take some inspiration from your design and make my own, alongside with a Ferric Chloride warmed tub for PCB prototyping and a fume extractor, so it all becomes a unified workstation. Again, great job. Hope to see some more of your creations.
nice build, good project :)
would be cool to see you make a custom PCB for this instead of breadboarding it
Ouu, good timed, just brought one of these plates.
Great project!!!
Very great project!!
Love it ! 👌
Thanks for the nice hot plate project! You treated the metal plate as though it were a common item like screws and nuts, but actually this item may be the most difficult for many users to find as they can't simply buy it from AE. It would have been helpful to have explained where you got the plate from or where other builders might find something similar.
Hi Rob, do u know where i can get the plate?
@@dave25702 he said he got it from AliExpress
You can find these ptc plates on Amazon too.
Bro, tuve la misma idea hace un tiempo gracias a tu video de la plancha.. Muchas gracias por esta gran calidad de contenido..!! Espero que sigas creciendo cada vez más..!!
PD: Quisiera saber si en algún momento harás algún video referente al cálculo de PID.
Great project 👍
Nice design!
Lovely project.
Well done!
Wow! Very good video
Weldone buddy👏👏👏👏
Excelente bro!
Thanks for the great videos. I have never solder components like this I will give it a try. In the parts description the soldering paste is missing. What soldering paste do you use? where could we buy it?
Excellent job ,
This is great! I had to do an ergodox keyboard with surface mount diodes by hand and this would have made that way faster. Can we also expect to see this reflow its own custom PCB?
Good work 👍👌👌
Great work
Love it!!
Impressive! 👍😊
Thanks for your excellent project I am a student naw electronic feelt. Thanks
He probado con la plancha de la ropa, pero esta versión me la hago. Gracias por tu curro
Gracias por compartir, en Mexico, el estándar es 110v, sería muy complicado hacer la conversión del proyecto a este voltaje?
Very nice project... although I am a little surprised that it works that well (positively surprised of course). The SSR that you use is the OMRON G3MB-202P, which very ubiquitous on Aliexpress and everywhere. However, its has a (simple) zero-crossover controlled thyristor inside, so this type of SSR cannot be used to precisely control the output power (that's why the G3MB-202P cannot be used to make dimmers for lamps, which would require phase-angle control very precise control -> G3MB-202PL). The zero-crossover only lets you control ON-OFF and waits for the voltage to cross 0V. The amount of ON-OFFs control the power. But in your video it seems to have good control of the temperature control.
Awesome, mate
awsome. keep going
Nice! Also some great suggestions from the comments.
Hello, thank you a lot for all of your videos !
I'm sorry but I can't find an aluminium grid with this size, where did you find yours ?
And about the solder plate, did you drill the hole to put a bigger screws ?
Thanks again !
Nice project
Very cool !
You should definitely earth the hot plate because it is using mains voltage. You are only relying on the insulation of a few dollar plate....This is lethal this way....
Great video
Thanks for video.
2 comments:
1) The 2A Relay might be to weak. The plate draws more at startup, then less when its heated. Its been mentioned by some of the reviwers at aliexpress who bought hot paltes
2) How did you calculate the PID values, i always struggle with those values to get a stable system
Thank you for sharing the source
Will putting 12V though the 5v regulator on the nano cause enough heat to damage the nano over time in an enclosed container?
Would a US 120v option be possible or would it not have enough power to get hot enough? Would love one of these.
Nice concept, I bought my heating plate a little bit larger and noticed that it's bended slightly by manufactering process I think.
So the pcb does not completely touches the heating plate and solderpaste is therefore not evenly soldered.
Did you have the same problem?
5:56 One correction here. Maybe it "melts" around 230C but its "glass transition" (point where it becomes soft) is way lower, around 105C. So I'm not sure if this was a good idea to make case of ABS so close to that heating plate.
There are a lot of things wrong with these stupid projects. Hotplates are super cheap on aliexpress. No need to reinvent the wheel. The uploader doesn't read any comments anyway; he just cares about the yt money
Could you please make a video comparing the cost and benefits to do the same project manually components assembly in your lab vs PCB+ PCBA for prototypes in PCB way? I hope that make sense
Excellent !
Thanks for the tutorial, I just make this one for me and I already order the heating plate, and at the beginning it reach 500W. Does the 2A ssr can handle it?