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Hay Electronoobs. I am waiting for 4 month when U make a clear and very Detailed video oven building a reflow oven!! Plese bro! Make one with regular home oven.there are someone make a very good looking open source reflow oven (ua-cam.com/video/BncBolIe5Jo/v-deo.html) .U can make that!!🙂 I am waiting for U bro!
@Elektronoobs, i maybe got a great idea for laser cutting pcb's, but i need this reflow heater wich i don't have. maybe you can test this and have a 5.000.000 view video... i think it must be possible to cut the outline of pcb traces with a 20W/5,5W diode laser with heat assist. heat the pcb to a few hundred degrees C so we need less laser power. i have seen people succeed engraving pcb (cutting the copper away what was not a trace) like butter with the use of a 30W fiber laser. so i think this might be possible, but lack this heater. will you test this? if you succeed your'e the first one!
@@omniyambot9876 Any exposed metal has the potential to become live under a fault condition. The heater is connected to the live and neutral, any breakdown in the insulation has the potential to make the heat bed become live. Earthing the heat plate ensures that if this should happen the current will flow to earth either blowing the fuse or tripping the main circuit breaker, protecting the user. In the uk class 1 products need to have an earth, I.e any electrical item that has exposed metal parts that could potentially become live. Hope this helps, all the best!
@@paulmathison2906 Yes. You WANT live to short to earth all by itself rather than short through someone to earth :) Flipping off the breaker is better than flipping off someone's heart.
Nice little hot plate. I agree with all the others about adding a 3-prong cord, fuse and grounding the hotplate for safety! I added a second mode for doing low temp solder (138C) and it all works great. Thanks for the great idea.
Excellent project! Might I suggest adding a mode for a fixed temperature. This could be useful if you want to replace a broken mobile phone screen and need to heat it to soften up the glue. I will definitely be building this.
Believe it or not, I use a 3d printer bed, Arduino tempt control and then cover the phone to do exactly this. Pretty much the best setup I have ever used, even works better than a couple of commercial systems built to purpose I have used.
If i were you, I wouldn't build it. This project has so many dangerous mistakes (some people have already reported them but this guy doesn't say anything about that). First, if you work with AC, please ground every metal component. Also, if you are working with heaters and solid state relays put a thermal fuse as that kind of relays fail closed so you could end up burning your house. Last, ABS starts deforming at ~100°C so that housing will last next to nothing
Put a glass Pyrex bowl (upside down) over the plate and PCB, that removes all the instability of room air currents and you will get more reliable and repeatable soldering. It also means you can use less total heat under the PCB so less chance of PCB burn and de-lamination problems.
@@miscluke8445 yeah and for really small PCBs you can even use a drinking glass, or a screwtop glass jar etc. They are heat proof enough for PCB temperatures.
Great project, however I strongly recommend anyone who wants to build it to implement at least a minimum of safety features found in any consumer product to reduce the chance of electrocution or fire (grounding of all exposed metal parts, one or more fuses to account for common errors, galvanic isolation between Arduino and 220 V net (depending on how much you trust the isolation of the SSR), adding clearance and creepage distance between 220V and 5V net on the prototype board (ideally splitting the board and have a few millimeter air gap), properly mounting 220V lines (I wouldn't trust hot glue with my live), add some electrical isolation between temperature probe and heat plate (not needed when plate is grounded) .... Maybe implementing all of this is overkill but at the very least please ground the metal parts, this increases the safety significantly.
This is why laymen should NEVER build projects involving mains electricity, especially devices containing heating elements. Because a layman does not have any knowledge of the dangers and risks associated with mains electricity.
Not only the serious safety issues. But other issues are that the PWM Minimum duty cycle goes too low for the zero crossing SSR to function properly. and the MAIN Issue is those hotplates wont achieve the temperature delta needed for a proper (or any) reflow profile at 120V (US power). a power series resistor *could solve this?
Great project! The only thing I’d do differently is using a grounded power cord and hook up the ground lead to the metal frame. This will ensure user’s safety when placing and removing boards from the heating surface.
Interesting Project! However, I would suggest that you use the glass transition temperature instead of the printing temperature when choosing a material for the case. The glass transition temperature is the temperature at which the material starts to soften and loose it´s strength, while at the printing temperature the material is already so soft that it can easily flow through the printer nozzle. For ABS the glass transition temperature is already at ~105°C, so I would be a bit careful when leaving the heater on for extended periods of time, as the radinant heat from the heater could soften the plastic around the top of the case where your metal plate is screwed in. To avoid the metal plate from falling and shorting out your circuit board I would maybe consider adding some way of supporting it from the bottom.
My thoughts exactly, probably some dedicated 3D printing material would be better - still, not many of them can wistand up to ~170°C, but, surprisingly wood is a nice alternative because it's ignition point is somewhere between 200-260°C and it is an easy material to work with ... the problem now is when it reaches this temparature range it will ignite, not melt.
All projects with heaters should include a one-time or resettable thermal cut-off, such as a normally-closed, manual-reset temperature switch attached to the heater and in series with its power circuit. This is *especially* true when using solid-state relays, which tend to fail closed and must have backup cut-offs to avoid runaway. Mechanical relays are noisier and less durable, but they are safer as they tend to fail in the open position.
I work as industrial maintenence and this is absolutely true. 99% when i had to replace mechanical coil relay it failed in open position. 100% of times i needed to replace dead SSR it failed in closed position.
Yes, run the heater power through a 300c thermal fuse that is taped/thermal conductive silicone to the bottom of the heat plate. [300c is well high enough to melt the solder but just under the ability to ignite combustibles]
I agree with all these safety suggestions, but as long as you never leave it unattended, and simply unplug it when you're not actually using it, I think you'll be ok. Just one other thing: my younger brother, who was living at home with parents at the time, burned the parent's house almost completely down because he left an old, badly wired soldering iron on, unattended. He's always been very careless though... But it just goes to show what can happen when safety features are not built in. On another topic, I really like this project and could use one myself! My problems are as follows: in the house that we are now living, we have no space for our belongings, and it's very crowded and chaotic. I had to leave my shop at the previous house because it was too far to move, and we don't even have a yard large enough for it even if we could've moved it. My "workbench" is a small piece of plywood on top of a file cabinet, barely room to solder! It's next to my desk in the "office," with barely enough floor space to even get to the desk & "work bench." The space problem is also why I've never had a 3D printer. If I move enough stuff out of the garage into the driveway (I have to move my truck first, since the driveway is so short), I can use my drill press. Everything is such a pain, to try to get anything done. These days I mostly watch other ppl build stuff, I can only work on my projects on paper or in my head! I haven't looked yet to see if you've shared your files for the 3D parts, but maybe I can find someone to print the parts for me, cuz I like your design! As far as the schematic, I can work that out myself, depending on the parts I find. I only need 120VAC for power, and I would likely use a different microprocessor. (I rarely use Arduino.) Anyway, thanks for sharing everything, it's a great idea and you showed how easily it can be implemented--all you need is a 3D printer and basic tools! ( And I guess you have to know what you're doing, lol, which I'm good on!) Keep up the good work! >>Jeffro
Neat build. As others mentioned, the glass transition temperature, i.e. the point where the plastic softens, is the crucial parameter to consider. PLA, ABS etc. can be successfully annealed to push the threshold higher, particularly improving PLA, so that would be an option if it proved necessary.
Love the shirt! One thing to keep in mind is that cheap Chinese reflow plates can be bought cheaply from china and often are hard to beat. Still, this is a really cool project and can be really useful for smaller PCBs where you do not need a big bulky device.
The plastic pipes welding machine that use the plumbers is an excellent temperature adjustable heating plate with flat surface that can do reballing bga or prebaking,led strips repair,soldering pcb and of course can do the job that is intended for.
these are the kinds of dyi stuff that i have zero use for and i know i wont ever make it but i still love watching these videos and learning how to make them xD
Excellent !! Have you read my mind !?? I just buy a hot plate on Aliexpress last week to do that 😄 thank you ! As a result, I just going to follow your project, it's very cool 👏👏👍
Nice project! Might I add a few suggestion... Ground wire Fuse Use the same pcb for buttons instead of using 3d printed so little lest plastic wast and you can drill holes. I'll might do this project
I have not seen it mentioned in the video or in the comments, but I have used the same hotplate (and a smaller version about half size) with just a power switch. It uses a PTC heater so the resistance (and power) drops as it heats up. If I remember correctly, I think mine self regulates at 260C so keeping power on is not as terrible as the hot iron version. I believe it will still get to operating temp at 110v but will just take longer to get there.
Are you not having a problem with the triac in the SSR staying on untill every zero crossing on the AC power signal? Basically making the SSR send full power to the heater almost all the time regardless of your PWM signal since the AC is 50hz and the arduino PWM is 490hz?
@@thenextproblem8001 mocking really slow PWM in software seems to help, this gives the SSR enough time to turn off for somewhat accurate results. Otherwise you might want to use zero cross detection like electronoob did in one of his other PID heater videos. Good luck :)
lcd.init(); //Init the LCD lcd.backlight(); //Activate backlight //lcd.noBacklight(); //Deactivate Backlight //Mode 0 is with SSR OFF (we can selcet mode with buttons) if(running_mode == 0){ digitalWrite(SSR, LOW);
Awesome little project. IMO a hot plate is a must even if one has a reflow oven, especially for reworking. Currently I'm designing a single board computer for an embedded biopotential logger. I think this project will be useful if I want to assemble the board myself. Now, if only the ICdemic would cease, so that I can source my parts.
Thanks for the nice hot plate project! You treated the metal plate as though it were a common item like screws and nuts, but actually this item may be the most difficult for many users to find as they can't simply buy it from AE. It would have been helpful to have explained where you got the plate from or where other builders might find something similar.
Amazing project.. I wanted to own one of these but they were too damn expensive.. but now I can build my own.. Thinking of making a custom PCB and adding a few headers to make the wiring a bit better and probably some fuses as well. Thanks a bunch..
the PWM deals with ramping the temp. both up and down it should be noted the SSR is a triac circuit and any on/off change will take a 1/2 cycle of the AC so 0 cross detection is automatic.
5:56 One correction here. Maybe it "melts" around 230C but its "glass transition" (point where it becomes soft) is way lower, around 105C. So I'm not sure if this was a good idea to make case of ABS so close to that heating plate.
There are a lot of things wrong with these stupid projects. Hotplates are super cheap on aliexpress. No need to reinvent the wheel. The uploader doesn't read any comments anyway; he just cares about the yt money
I love you channel a lot! Great ideas - great work - great results. I follow it because I want to learn more EE knowledge. Since I am an mechanical designer (automotive) I guess you know I would design the housing a slightly different way. If you interested in I could support with this king of simple mechanical concepts. Kind regards from Austria
Quite nice. The only change I would make (now that you've done all the hard work), is to add at least one red LED on each side of the hot plate, and set the to flash when the temp is over 90C. I know when I print PETG and the bed is 100C, that sucker is hot when I take it off the printer, so I'd say anything over 90C would need a warning of some sort to say, DON'T TOUCH ME! That shouldn't be too hard to add to your design. Given how good it is now, adding something like this would be a breeze!
@@steveharper2857 I guess it's up to each person. I take the print bed off my printer at 60 C and have no issues. But then again, my laptop gets up to 45 C and it's too hot. Maybe just make it a setting as well?
I love the way you engineer things from the ground up, I do the very same thing. I think Edison or Tesla would love having you help them in the lab. Sometimes I get stumped on a project , it would be great if you were around to add some advice.
Interesting idea. A couple of remarks; the hot plate screws would look nicer if flush with the plate itself, not only for aesthetic reasons but also functionality. Dealing with hot stuff, you don't want your PCB's to bump into anything and get burned by accident. The cables inside could be tidier, but I get that you aren't selling the product, and you want it up and running asap. Using thermal paste could help with the heat transfer and the PID control if you want to go that extra mile. Personally, I would have gone for a generic metal case instead of the plastic one, just because I don't know at what point the plastic could release some harmful vapours even if it doesn't melt. Also, the display could benefit from being backlit. Overall, a job well executed, please take these remarks as suggestions for a possible iteration. I will actually take some inspiration from your design and make my own, alongside with a Ferric Chloride warmed tub for PCB prototyping and a fume extractor, so it all becomes a unified workstation. Again, great job. Hope to see some more of your creations.
You should definitely earth the hot plate because it is using mains voltage. You are only relying on the insulation of a few dollar plate....This is lethal this way....
Neat idea of using a teeny heating module like that! But still the issue is it needs mains voltage to work. I would like you to try a "portable" heater that could run on batteries (maybe for v3?). That could be done, as you can buy "cartridge heater" very cheap (kind of cylindrical heating elements running on 12V, 40W) inserted into an aluminium block as a heat sink and plate. The rest of the control circuit design would remain same, except the heater would use a MOSFET instead of an SSR. That would be very interesting to make!
You can get comparable 12 or 24V heating plates on ali as well. An aluminium block has too high inertia to run a proper temperture ramp, same problem as with the iron in the first version.
@@Makatea agreed, but the plate would be ~1cm thick. Also, a CPU heatsink can be used with a fan to cool it down in that reflow stage, which can be temperature controlled
@@narayanbandodker5482 Feel free to complicate your life and build a version 2 once you see in practice that you can't get a proper ramp if the heated mass is too big.
Its a very good project, but the problem is that without a 3D printer, the difficulty skyrockets to LUMBERJACK level. 😂 Btw, it works really well. Good Job! Remember to add a fuse and the ground wire to the metal plate for safety reasons. Of course the wire on the plate must be connected with a screw, otherwise the solder would melt.
Thanks for video. 2 comments: 1) The 2A Relay might be to weak. The plate draws more at startup, then less when its heated. Its been mentioned by some of the reviwers at aliexpress who bought hot paltes 2) How did you calculate the PID values, i always struggle with those values to get a stable system
Hello, I'm glad I came across Your site a few months ago! As I use SMD components intensively, I decided to make two of Your projects: Reflow Hot Plate - V2 and Automatic solder paste dispenser. I have some questions about Reflow hot plate: With the parameters given in the program, the maximum temperature is around 200 degrees Celsius. As I use solder paste with a melting temperature of 230 degrees Celsius, it is necessary to change the parameters in the program. I changed the reflow_setpoint = 250 but the temperature was max 218 degrees. Which parameters and to which value should be changed in order to obtain a higher temperature? How did you determine the values of the PID controller in the program? Thanks in advance and regards. Nesa
You didn't mention the dimensions of the plate and if the relay is high level or low level, neater in this videos nor in your article. Would you please add this information pls
So I have ordered all the parts from Ali using your links, payed the money for all the parts. Then I went to download the code... and wow you are begging for continuous support to provide the code. It is OK, the only problem is that it was not mentioned before. So what else can I do after having ordered all the parts? I MUST became a supporter. Nice trick!
@@ELECTRONOOBS Hmmm then it was my fault. I just used the link above and ended up in a registration form to support your projects. I must check it again. Sorry about my previous comment. And thank you for the nice projects!
@@kivancsifi no worries, I don't share anything with only payment. Support is only if you want and enjoy my work. On the tutorial page you can find the code, parts, schematic, etc.. All for free ;)
Nice project, I was thinking of building something similar. The only thing I am skeptical about ist the insulation. You did not specify what exactly you are using, but if it is something like cale wool, it would be a very bad idea to blow air through it, is the fibers will be blown into the air. If it is something different, could you please let me know what it is?
I think it is a ceramic fibre insulation blanket. If you look at toaster oven reflow builds you will see the same stuff used. You can get it from eBay or amazon. Wear gloves though. I am building a reflow oven but this looks great for quick proto boards.
I definitely would not buy insulation material from aliexpress that made out of fiber material as in China they still use asbestos and it simply does not worth the risk whether it would contain any or not.
This has me thinking of putting some wires our of my 3d printer, hook up additional heating elements to a metal plate and then use the 3D printer's circuitry to set the plate temp while the thermisters watch for temperature regulation. Then just switch the wires back when done.
Hello, thank you a lot for all of your videos ! I'm sorry but I can't find an aluminium grid with this size, where did you find yours ? And about the solder plate, did you drill the hole to put a bigger screws ? Thanks again !
Very nice project... although I am a little surprised that it works that well (positively surprised of course). The SSR that you use is the OMRON G3MB-202P, which very ubiquitous on Aliexpress and everywhere. However, its has a (simple) zero-crossover controlled thyristor inside, so this type of SSR cannot be used to precisely control the output power (that's why the G3MB-202P cannot be used to make dimmers for lamps, which would require phase-angle control very precise control -> G3MB-202PL). The zero-crossover only lets you control ON-OFF and waits for the voltage to cross 0V. The amount of ON-OFFs control the power. But in your video it seems to have good control of the temperature control.
Thanks for the great videos. I have never solder components like this I will give it a try. In the parts description the soldering paste is missing. What soldering paste do you use? where could we buy it?
Bro, tuve la misma idea hace un tiempo gracias a tu video de la plancha.. Muchas gracias por esta gran calidad de contenido..!! Espero que sigas creciendo cada vez más..!! PD: Quisiera saber si en algún momento harás algún video referente al cálculo de PID.
Nice concept, I bought my heating plate a little bit larger and noticed that it's bended slightly by manufactering process I think. So the pcb does not completely touches the heating plate and solderpaste is therefore not evenly soldered. Did you have the same problem?
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Hay Electronoobs. I am waiting for 4 month when U make a clear and very Detailed video oven building a reflow oven!!
Plese bro!
Make one with regular home oven.there are someone make a very good looking open source reflow oven (ua-cam.com/video/BncBolIe5Jo/v-deo.html) .U can make that!!🙂
I am waiting for U bro!
can it go up to 500 degrees
does anyone know where i can get the metal plate and cotton insulation for this project? Please
@Elektronoobs, i maybe got a great idea for laser cutting pcb's, but i need this reflow heater wich i don't have. maybe you can test this and have a 5.000.000 view video...
i think it must be possible to cut the outline of pcb traces with a 20W/5,5W diode laser with heat assist. heat the pcb to a few hundred degrees C so we need less laser power.
i have seen people succeed engraving pcb (cutting the copper away what was not a trace) like butter with the use of a 30W fiber laser. so i think this might be possible, but lack this heater. will you test this? if you succeed your'e the first one!
It may be an idea to add a mains fuse for safety as well as earth the heat plate, otherwise a great project. Thanks for sharing!
Why earth?
@@omniyambot9876
Any exposed metal has the potential to become live under a fault condition. The heater is connected to the live and neutral, any breakdown in the insulation has the potential to make the heat bed become live. Earthing the heat plate ensures that if this should happen the current will flow to earth either blowing the fuse or tripping the main circuit breaker, protecting the user. In the uk class 1 products need to have an earth, I.e any electrical item that has exposed metal parts that could potentially become live. Hope this helps, all the best!
@@paulmathison2906 thank you my master!
@@paulmathison2906 Yes. You WANT live to short to earth all by itself rather than short through someone to earth :) Flipping off the breaker is better than flipping off someone's heart.
@@paulmathison2906 use a trenntrafo
You need to connect a ground wire to the hot plate because it is made of metal! Good project👍👍👍
The plate is already grounded bc the connecting wire's ground is already connected to it
@@joran4612 Yes, but the plug is not grounded so the plate ground is not connected to the socket ground
Nice little hot plate. I agree with all the others about adding a 3-prong cord, fuse and grounding the hotplate for safety! I added a second mode for doing low temp solder (138C) and it all works great. Thanks for the great idea.
Can you upload the code for low temp solder?
Excellent project!
Might I suggest adding a mode for a fixed temperature. This could be useful if you want to replace a broken mobile phone screen and need to heat it to soften up the glue.
I will definitely be building this.
Believe it or not, I use a 3d printer bed, Arduino tempt control and then cover the phone to do exactly this. Pretty much the best setup I have ever used, even works better than a couple of commercial systems built to purpose I have used.
If i were you, I wouldn't build it. This project has so many dangerous mistakes (some people have already reported them but this guy doesn't say anything about that). First, if you work with AC, please ground every metal component. Also, if you are working with heaters and solid state relays put a thermal fuse as that kind of relays fail closed so you could end up burning your house. Last, ABS starts deforming at ~100°C so that housing will last next to nothing
Put a glass Pyrex bowl (upside down) over the plate and PCB, that removes all the instability of room air currents and you will get more reliable and repeatable soldering.
It also means you can use less total heat under the PCB so less chance of PCB burn and de-lamination problems.
Brilliant! A simple and elegant idea to cover up the hot plate with a square Pyrex bowl! 👍
@@miscluke8445 yeah and for really small PCBs you can even use a drinking glass, or a screwtop glass jar etc. They are heat proof enough for PCB temperatures.
@@wizrom3046 Yeah, and make sure to wear an oven mitt when you remove the pyrex jar, lol! (Speaking of safety...)
Great project, however I strongly recommend anyone who wants to build it to implement at least a minimum of safety features found in any consumer product to reduce the chance of electrocution or fire (grounding of all exposed metal parts, one or more fuses to account for common errors, galvanic isolation between Arduino and 220 V net (depending on how much you trust the isolation of the SSR), adding clearance and creepage distance between 220V and 5V net on the prototype board (ideally splitting the board and have a few millimeter air gap), properly mounting 220V lines (I wouldn't trust hot glue with my live), add some electrical isolation between temperature probe and heat plate (not needed when plate is grounded) ....
Maybe implementing all of this is overkill but at the very least please ground the metal parts, this increases the safety significantly.
This is why laymen should NEVER build projects involving mains electricity, especially devices containing heating elements.
Because a layman does not have any knowledge of the dangers and risks associated with mains electricity.
Not only the serious safety issues. But other issues are that the PWM Minimum duty cycle goes too low for the zero crossing SSR to function properly. and the MAIN Issue is those hotplates wont achieve the temperature delta needed for a proper (or any) reflow profile at 120V (US power). a power series resistor *could solve this?
@@williamgates97 Ah. So those plates can't be used on 110/120?
Great project! The only thing I’d do differently is using a grounded power cord and hook up the ground lead to the metal frame. This will ensure user’s safety when placing and removing boards from the heating surface.
And will also help protect boards from ESD damage.
Hadn't thought of that. It's aluminum though. Should be alright because it's aluminum, right?
Interesting Project! However, I would suggest that you use the glass transition temperature instead of the printing temperature when choosing a material for the case. The glass transition temperature is the temperature at which the material starts to soften and loose it´s strength, while at the printing temperature the material is already so soft that it can easily flow through the printer nozzle. For ABS the glass transition temperature is already at ~105°C, so I would be a bit careful when leaving the heater on for extended periods of time, as the radinant heat from the heater could soften the plastic around the top of the case where your metal plate is screwed in. To avoid the metal plate from falling and shorting out your circuit board I would maybe consider adding some way of supporting it from the bottom.
My thoughts exactly, probably some dedicated 3D printing material would be better - still, not many of them can wistand up to ~170°C, but, surprisingly wood is a nice alternative because it's ignition point is somewhere between 200-260°C and it is an easy material to work with ... the problem now is when it reaches this temparature range it will ignite, not melt.
All projects with heaters should include a one-time or resettable thermal cut-off, such as a normally-closed, manual-reset temperature switch attached to the heater and in series with its power circuit. This is *especially* true when using solid-state relays, which tend to fail closed and must have backup cut-offs to avoid runaway. Mechanical relays are noisier and less durable, but they are safer as they tend to fail in the open position.
I work as industrial maintenence and this is absolutely true. 99% when i had to replace mechanical coil relay it failed in open position. 100% of times i needed to replace dead SSR it failed in closed position.
Yes, run the heater power through a 300c thermal fuse that is taped/thermal conductive silicone to the bottom of the heat plate.
[300c is well high enough to melt the solder but just under the ability to ignite combustibles]
I think since he uses PTC heater then he wouldn't face thermal runaway
If this thing runs away I suggest unplugging it lol it’s not hot enough or permanent enough to really be that dangerous, of course burns are possible
I agree with all these safety suggestions, but as long as you never leave it unattended, and simply unplug it when you're not actually using it, I think you'll be ok. Just one other thing: my younger brother, who was living at home with parents at the time, burned the parent's house almost completely down because he left an old, badly wired soldering iron on, unattended. He's always been very careless though... But it just goes to show what can happen when safety features are not built in.
On another topic, I really like this project and could use one myself! My problems are as follows: in the house that we are now living, we have no space for our belongings, and it's very crowded and chaotic. I had to leave my shop at the previous house because it was too far to move, and we don't even have a yard large enough for it even if we could've moved it. My "workbench" is a small piece of plywood on top of a file cabinet, barely room to solder! It's next to my desk in the "office," with barely enough floor space to even get to the desk & "work bench."
The space problem is also why I've never had a 3D printer. If I move enough stuff out of the garage into the driveway (I have to move my truck first, since the driveway is so short), I can use my drill press. Everything is such a pain, to try to get anything done. These days I mostly watch other ppl build stuff, I can only work on my projects on paper or in my head!
I haven't looked yet to see if you've shared your files for the 3D parts, but maybe I can find someone to print the parts for me, cuz I like your design! As far as the schematic, I can work that out myself, depending on the parts I find. I only need 120VAC for power, and I would likely use a different microprocessor. (I rarely use Arduino.)
Anyway, thanks for sharing everything, it's a great idea and you showed how easily it can be implemented--all you need is a 3D printer and basic tools! ( And I guess you have to know what you're doing, lol, which I'm good on!)
Keep up the good work!
>>Jeffro
Neat build. As others mentioned, the glass transition temperature, i.e. the point where the plastic softens, is the crucial parameter to consider. PLA, ABS etc. can be successfully annealed to push the threshold higher, particularly improving PLA, so that would be an option if it proved necessary.
Love the shirt! One thing to keep in mind is that cheap Chinese reflow plates can be bought cheaply from china and often are hard to beat. Still, this is a really cool project and can be really useful for smaller PCBs where you do not need a big bulky device.
That is one of those plates. Basically he added some electronics so it has a reflow curve
The plastic pipes welding machine that use the plumbers is an excellent temperature adjustable heating plate with flat surface that can do reballing bga or prebaking,led strips repair,soldering pcb and of course can do the job that is intended for.
Reflow hot plate version 2. This looks awesome. 🤩🤩 Keep it up.
I really like this idea over a reflow oven for prototyping PCB's.
these are the kinds of dyi stuff that i have zero use for and i know i wont ever make it but i still love watching these videos and learning how to make them xD
Thank you man, I will definitely build this. I have just a little amount of smd projects and this thing is a good start befor buying a pricey one
Excellent !! Have you read my mind !?? I just buy a hot plate on Aliexpress last week to do that 😄 thank you ! As a result, I just going to follow your project, it's very cool 👏👏👍
Another great video! I really enjoyed watching this build. You even threw in a short thermistor tutorial! Thanks for sharing.
Nice project! Might I add a few suggestion...
Ground wire
Fuse
Use the same pcb for buttons instead of using 3d printed so little lest plastic wast and you can drill holes. I'll might do this project
Hard work and efforts in this project payed off
Very thorough exploration of device's capabilities.
I have not seen it mentioned in the video or in the comments, but I have used the same hotplate (and a smaller version about half size) with just a power switch. It uses a PTC heater so the resistance (and power) drops as it heats up. If I remember correctly, I think mine self regulates at 260C so keeping power on is not as terrible as the hot iron version. I believe it will still get to operating temp at 110v but will just take longer to get there.
You are magican ! Cheers from Poland brother !!!!
Are you not having a problem with the triac in the SSR staying on untill every zero crossing on the AC power signal? Basically making the SSR send full power to the heater almost all the time regardless of your PWM signal since the AC is 50hz and the arduino PWM is 490hz?
Hey man i came cross with the same problem. SSR is never off. Do you find a solution for that
@@thenextproblem8001 mocking really slow PWM in software seems to help, this gives the SSR enough time to turn off for somewhat accurate results. Otherwise you might want to use zero cross detection like electronoob did in one of his other PID heater videos. Good luck :)
@@Chewduh_ thanks for the tip👌
Paul can u elaborate more on this for me.. how do I mock slow pwm in software to get ssr to shut off long enough.
lcd.init(); //Init the LCD lcd.backlight(); //Activate backlight
//lcd.noBacklight(); //Deactivate Backlight
//Mode 0 is with SSR OFF (we can selcet mode with buttons)
if(running_mode == 0){
digitalWrite(SSR, LOW);
These guides are thorough and easy to understand, thank you.
Awesome little project. IMO a hot plate is a must even if one has a reflow oven, especially for reworking. Currently I'm designing a single board computer for an embedded biopotential logger. I think this project will be useful if I want to assemble the board myself. Now, if only the ICdemic would cease, so that I can source my parts.
Perhaps for safety should ground the heating plate? Otherwise nice work!
Yes, thank you! I will do that!
AMAZING , A PROFEESIONAL
even though I don't use SMD components yet (I am a bit old fashioned) this is a great project
Thanks for the nice hot plate project! You treated the metal plate as though it were a common item like screws and nuts, but actually this item may be the most difficult for many users to find as they can't simply buy it from AE. It would have been helpful to have explained where you got the plate from or where other builders might find something similar.
Hi Rob, do u know where i can get the plate?
@@dave25702 he said he got it from AliExpress
You can find these ptc plates on Amazon too.
Amazing project! Just built and works perfectly! Thanks for sharing!
would be cool to see you make a custom PCB for this instead of breadboarding it
Bravissimo, è un progetto molto molto bello, semplice e soprattutto utilissimo, grazie.
Amazing project.. I wanted to own one of these but they were too damn expensive.. but now I can build my own..
Thinking of making a custom PCB and adding a few headers to make the wiring a bit better and probably some fuses as well.
Thanks a bunch..
Excellent project 👍
What is the PWM for? The heater is AC and you can't use PWM on AC without 0V cross detection and probably a TRIAC instead a SSR.
the PWM deals with ramping the temp. both up and down
it should be noted the SSR is a triac circuit and any on/off change will take a 1/2 cycle of the AC so 0 cross detection is automatic.
5:56 One correction here. Maybe it "melts" around 230C but its "glass transition" (point where it becomes soft) is way lower, around 105C. So I'm not sure if this was a good idea to make case of ABS so close to that heating plate.
There are a lot of things wrong with these stupid projects. Hotplates are super cheap on aliexpress. No need to reinvent the wheel. The uploader doesn't read any comments anyway; he just cares about the yt money
I love you channel a lot! Great ideas - great work - great results. I follow it because I want to learn more EE knowledge.
Since I am an mechanical designer (automotive) I guess you know I would design the housing a slightly different way. If you interested in I could support with this king of simple mechanical concepts.
Kind regards from Austria
Quite nice. The only change I would make (now that you've done all the hard work), is to add at least one red LED on each side of the hot plate, and set the to flash when the temp is over 90C. I know when I print PETG and the bed is 100C, that sucker is hot when I take it off the printer, so I'd say anything over 90C would need a warning of some sort to say, DON'T TOUCH ME! That shouldn't be too hard to add to your design. Given how good it is now, adding something like this would be a breeze!
That's a cool idea!
50C would be even more sensible.
@@steveharper2857 I guess it's up to each person. I take the print bed off my printer at 60 C and have no issues. But then again, my laptop gets up to 45 C and it's too hot. Maybe just make it a setting as well?
Great looking beard! good video as well, keep up the good work!
Ouu, good timed, just brought one of these plates.
I love the way you engineer things from the ground up, I do the very same thing. I think Edison or Tesla would love having you help them in the lab. Sometimes I get stumped on a project , it would be great if you were around to add some advice.
Nice newly revise soldering plate
Interesting idea. A couple of remarks; the hot plate screws would look nicer if flush with the plate itself, not only for aesthetic reasons but also functionality. Dealing with hot stuff, you don't want your PCB's to bump into anything and get burned by accident. The cables inside could be tidier, but I get that you aren't selling the product, and you want it up and running asap. Using thermal paste could help with the heat transfer and the PID control if you want to go that extra mile. Personally, I would have gone for a generic metal case instead of the plastic one, just because I don't know at what point the plastic could release some harmful vapours even if it doesn't melt. Also, the display could benefit from being backlit. Overall, a job well executed, please take these remarks as suggestions for a possible iteration. I will actually take some inspiration from your design and make my own, alongside with a Ferric Chloride warmed tub for PCB prototyping and a fume extractor, so it all becomes a unified workstation. Again, great job. Hope to see some more of your creations.
You should definitely earth the hot plate because it is using mains voltage. You are only relying on the insulation of a few dollar plate....This is lethal this way....
Neat idea of using a teeny heating module like that! But still the issue is it needs mains voltage to work. I would like you to try a "portable" heater that could run on batteries (maybe for v3?). That could be done, as you can buy "cartridge heater" very cheap (kind of cylindrical heating elements running on 12V, 40W) inserted into an aluminium block as a heat sink and plate. The rest of the control circuit design would remain same, except the heater would use a MOSFET instead of an SSR. That would be very interesting to make!
You can get comparable 12 or 24V heating plates on ali as well.
An aluminium block has too high inertia to run a proper temperture ramp, same problem as with the iron in the first version.
@@Makatea agreed, but the plate would be ~1cm thick. Also, a CPU heatsink can be used with a fan to cool it down in that reflow stage, which can be temperature controlled
@@narayanbandodker5482 Feel free to complicate your life and build a version 2 once you see in practice that you can't get a proper ramp if the heated mass is too big.
I made one for myself and it works well. Thanks a lot !
Its a very good project, but the problem is that without a 3D printer, the difficulty skyrockets to LUMBERJACK level. 😂
Btw, it works really well. Good Job!
Remember to add a fuse and the ground wire to the metal plate for safety reasons. Of course the wire on the plate must be connected with a screw, otherwise the solder would melt.
Excellent project!! Excelente proyecto, saludos desde buenos aires, argentina.
Brilliant. Everything very good and professional 👏🔥. I will avoid “mode” and I will use temp degree or maybe with a more precise name.
Loved your project
you deserve more subs than you have
How many watts minimum through such a hotplate straight from a bench PSU to get the plate to 200C?
Great project - well done :)
Another great project. I really like this one. Thanks.
Like always awsome video!
Great project as always!
He probado con la plancha de la ropa, pero esta versión me la hago. Gracias por tu curro
Thanks for video.
2 comments:
1) The 2A Relay might be to weak. The plate draws more at startup, then less when its heated. Its been mentioned by some of the reviwers at aliexpress who bought hot paltes
2) How did you calculate the PID values, i always struggle with those values to get a stable system
Keep it up buddy ur rocking it..
awesome!! totally a project I want to do sometime, great video!!
You could add a similar sized metal plate next to the hot one to give the PCBs a place to let them cool down.
❤️ from India
Me to
Hello,
I'm glad I came across Your site a few months ago! As I use SMD components intensively, I decided to make two of Your projects: Reflow Hot Plate - V2 and Automatic solder paste dispenser. I have some questions about Reflow hot plate:
With the parameters given in the program, the maximum temperature is around 200 degrees Celsius. As I use solder paste with a melting temperature of 230 degrees Celsius, it is necessary to change the parameters in the program. I changed the reflow_setpoint = 250 but the temperature was max 218 degrees. Which parameters and to which value should be changed in order to obtain a higher temperature? How did you determine the values of the PID controller in the program? Thanks in advance and regards. Nesa
Thanks for your excellent project I am a student naw electronic feelt. Thanks
Weldone buddy👏👏👏👏
Nice project, well done!
You didn't mention the dimensions of the plate and if the relay is high level or low level, neater in this videos nor in your article. Would you please add this information pls
Very nice project! I am interested to try and make one for myself.
Nice! Also some great suggestions from the comments.
Excellent project, thank you for sharing.
Hello, Love your videos, one suggestion, audio of the videos is low, if possible slidely amplifying the audio.
Good work 👍👌👌
So I have ordered all the parts from Ali using your links, payed the money for all the parts. Then I went to download the code... and wow you are begging for continuous support to provide the code. It is OK, the only problem is that it was not mentioned before. So what else can I do after having ordered all the parts? I MUST became a supporter. Nice trick!
What? The code is shared for free! All my codes are free!
@@ELECTRONOOBS Hmmm then it was my fault. I just used the link above and ended up in a registration form to support your projects. I must check it again. Sorry about my previous comment. And thank you for the nice projects!
@@kivancsifi no worries, I don't share anything with only payment. Support is only if you want and enjoy my work. On the tutorial page you can find the code, parts, schematic, etc.. All for free ;)
Will putting 12V though the 5v regulator on the nano cause enough heat to damage the nano over time in an enclosed container?
nice build, good project :)
Nice design!
Beautiful project
Great project, well done
Nice project, I was thinking of building something similar.
The only thing I am skeptical about ist the insulation. You did not specify what exactly you are using, but if it is something like cale wool, it would be a very bad idea to blow air through it, is the fibers will be blown into the air. If it is something different, could you please let me know what it is?
I think it is a ceramic fibre insulation blanket. If you look at toaster oven reflow builds you will see the same stuff used. You can get it from eBay or amazon. Wear gloves though. I am building a reflow oven but this looks great for quick proto boards.
I definitely would not buy insulation material from aliexpress that made out of fiber material as in China they still use asbestos and it simply does not worth the risk whether it would contain any or not.
Would a US 120v option be possible or would it not have enough power to get hot enough? Would love one of these.
You should use a radiant heat source instead.
Cheap radiant hot plate is perfect for that.
And then you could add a precise heat control if needed.
Well done!
Great project 👍
Impressive! 👍😊
This has me thinking of putting some wires our of my 3d printer, hook up additional heating elements to a metal plate and then use the 3D printer's circuitry to set the plate temp while the thermisters watch for temperature regulation. Then just switch the wires back when done.
Why do you use solid state relays whille you can use triacs which are much cheaper. Is it possible to use two triacs in parallel for higher currents?
Hello, thank you a lot for all of your videos !
I'm sorry but I can't find an aluminium grid with this size, where did you find yours ?
And about the solder plate, did you drill the hole to put a bigger screws ?
Thanks again !
Very great project!!
Wow! Very good video
Very nice project... although I am a little surprised that it works that well (positively surprised of course). The SSR that you use is the OMRON G3MB-202P, which very ubiquitous on Aliexpress and everywhere. However, its has a (simple) zero-crossover controlled thyristor inside, so this type of SSR cannot be used to precisely control the output power (that's why the G3MB-202P cannot be used to make dimmers for lamps, which would require phase-angle control very precise control -> G3MB-202PL). The zero-crossover only lets you control ON-OFF and waits for the voltage to cross 0V. The amount of ON-OFFs control the power. But in your video it seems to have good control of the temperature control.
Banana for scale. Nice ;)
Great project! What are the dimensions of the hot plate? I live in the US and would prefer a 110V plate.
According to the product page, the 400W plate is 120*70MM.
this hot plate can run on 110v and 220v
Thanks for the great videos. I have never solder components like this I will give it a try. In the parts description the soldering paste is missing. What soldering paste do you use? where could we buy it?
Great project!
Bro, tuve la misma idea hace un tiempo gracias a tu video de la plancha.. Muchas gracias por esta gran calidad de contenido..!! Espero que sigas creciendo cada vez más..!!
PD: Quisiera saber si en algún momento harás algún video referente al cálculo de PID.
excellent project build.
Nice concept, I bought my heating plate a little bit larger and noticed that it's bended slightly by manufactering process I think.
So the pcb does not completely touches the heating plate and solderpaste is therefore not evenly soldered.
Did you have the same problem?
Awesome, mate