The only lacing video so far mentioning both types of rims, and instructing correctly, straight to the point. Took an hour or so to get two wheels done. Learned it for a lifetime! Thank you!
Incredible that you have posted this up, myself like 000's of others did this live, in person, in this very room with this lady - me in January 2011. I've built 000's of wheels commercially since. Thanks!
I want to start building wheels and ordered a Truing stand, spoke wrenches, nipple drivers and a tension meter that have not arrived yet. This week I've watched about 10 hours of wheel building videos when I stumbled upon this one. Watching Teresa lacing up the wheel, I started saying to myself, "why is she doing it that way? Why start with 2 sets of spokes on opposite sides of the wheel from each other?" "Everybody else I've watched so far has done things a little different but nobody I've seen so far has done it like this!" But I continued watching anyway...AND I AM GLAD I DID! Very concise, not to wordy. And the Technique! WOW! WOW! WOW! Teresa, you make it look easy. Then it came to Truing... Everybody else I watched has addressed the Wobble or Lateral Truing first. Teresa started with the Hop or Radial Truing as she increased spoke tension. And she started checking the "Dish" earlier and more frequent throughout the Truing process then I've seen before. Yes I noticed the lack of a Tension Meter and the antiquated Truing Stand. But I think that with as much experience that has been demonstrated in this video it is not needed. I'm going to have to order a dishing tool. Thank you Alf and Teresa
Hello Tyrod2 if you pm me I'll explain the background to the video and the methodology taught at The Bike Inn . I have sent a copy of your comments to Teresa, she is over the moon!
I have seen alot of videos on how to build a wheel I've also done them all that I've seen but I must say Teresa's technique is in my opinion by far the best I've done her technique on my wheel twice and both times came out the best out of all the other techniques out there, her way is different than all the rest maybe that's why I believe it's the best👍👍 two thumbs up for that Ms. Teresa😉
5:12 spokes chaos:wheel is laceing in steps 1/4, first goes inner half of spokes on drive side then inner half of left side, then second half of drive side- outher spokes and then second half of left side, outher spokes, and one error is : on gear/drive side of wheel,first spoke that is right of valve hole must be inside, your is outhside
Hello Makan - Interesting comments. Four lacing patterns are achievable for a semi tangential wheel. Two asymmetric inside and outside spokes being reversed., and two symmetrical two trailing, two leading. Very little advantage can be argued one over the other. All I would suggest is the drive side trailing spoke should be outside thereby helping proved an unshipped chain getting wedged between cassette and spokes.
Good video on the basics of wheel building albeit an old school approach. It intrigues me that no measuring instruments are used e.g. dial indicators for truing and tension meters for spoke tension. Being an engineer I like the idea of meeting tolerances rather than just visual judgement on true and feel or pitch in regard to spoke tension. Dial indicators and tension meters are pretty cheap these days and would be a worthy addition to the wheel builders tool kit. A wheel built with tight tolerances for truing and consistent spoke tension that is not too loose or too tight is ultimately a good wheel that should perform well over the long term.
Dial indicators serve no useful purpose in wheel truing, other than giving you a number to brag about (or charge extra for) for an unloaded wheel, you can get closer than the deflection that actually loading the wheel (getting on your bike) causes with a fixed pointer, you just can't upsell the result based off meaningless numbers. For carbon rims you can get right down to less deflection than the manufacturing tolerances re thickness of the lay up introduces. Tension meters allow inexperienced builders to get consistent results, I guess they have a place as a rough guide, but don't confuse resolution with accuracy, the ones sold to bike mechanics aren't that great as actual measuring instruments, as trying half a dozen of them on the same spoke in the same wheel would tell you.
I agree.. Dial indicators are a useless tool for wheel truing.. A contact point and a white piece of paper to judge the gap is all that is needed.. dishing and truing must be done at the same time.. I have built thousands of wheels and this is my technique.. Tension meters may be useful on carbon rims and high tension low spoke number wheels.. BTW.. the Var spoke wrench she is using is also my favorite..
I've read elsewhere about stressing the wheel after it has been tensioned up so called to pull the hard stainless steel spokes into the softer aluminium hub in order to bed them. Is this something you recommend?
hello, thank you for this wonderful movie in which the steps are shown perfectly. What strikes me is the fact that there is no mention of push and pull spokes. The pull spokes have the head on the inside and they are in the direction of travel. The push spokes have the head on the outside. You always start with the spoke head outwards, but if the first spoke has to come to the right of the valve, the orientation is no longer correct according to the described principle. Do you think that the orientation of the spoke heads does not have much influence on the strength of the wheel? Curious about your thoughts on this topic. Sincerely Ronald
Great video, great method. I really enjoyed watching this, and am going to go and work through this right away. I have a couple of questions: Why would you slacken all the spokes and start again if you overshoot the dish? And, what is the name of your dishing tool? That is a far superior design to the park tool one I have. I really like the way it engages at the hub. Many thanks!
Pero que pasa cuando el cuadro te pide asia dónde jalar más .y si asimétrico.porque me a pasado....ay que buscar a donde te pide .yo trabajo a dónde me pide el cuadro y me a dado resultados.el ensayar es un arte.ok
Pretty amateur lacing though. The hub logo isn't aligned with the valve hole. She had the rim backwards so the logo on the rim can't be read forwards from the drive side. That initial spoke layout scratched the rim too many times.
The only lacing video so far mentioning both types of rims, and instructing correctly, straight to the point. Took an hour or so to get two wheels done. Learned it for a lifetime! Thank you!
Incredible that you have posted this up, myself like 000's of others did this live, in person, in this very room with this lady - me in January 2011. I've built 000's of wheels commercially since. Thanks!
David - We still teach EXACTY(?) the same way!
I want to start building wheels and ordered a Truing stand, spoke wrenches, nipple drivers and a tension meter that have not arrived yet. This week I've watched about 10 hours of wheel building videos when I stumbled upon this one. Watching Teresa lacing up the wheel, I started saying to myself, "why is she doing it that way? Why start with 2 sets of spokes on opposite sides of the wheel from each other?" "Everybody else I've watched so far has done things a little different but nobody I've seen so far has done it like this!" But I continued watching anyway...AND I AM GLAD I DID! Very concise, not to wordy. And the Technique! WOW! WOW! WOW! Teresa, you make it look easy. Then it came to Truing... Everybody else I watched has addressed the Wobble or Lateral Truing first. Teresa started with the Hop or Radial Truing as she increased spoke tension. And she started checking the "Dish" earlier and more frequent throughout the Truing process then I've seen before. Yes I noticed the lack of a Tension Meter and the antiquated Truing Stand. But I think that with as much experience that has been demonstrated in this video it is not needed. I'm going to have to order a dishing tool. Thank you Alf and Teresa
Hello Tyrod2 if you pm me I'll explain the background to the video and the methodology taught at The Bike Inn . I have sent a copy of your comments to Teresa, she is over the moon!
@@joncolborne2145 I would like to know the background to the video and the methodology taught at The Bike Inn, also.
I have seen alot of videos on how to build a wheel I've also done them all that I've seen but I must say Teresa's technique is in my opinion by far the best I've done her technique on my wheel twice and both times came out the best out of all the other techniques out there, her way is different than all the rest maybe that's why I believe it's the best👍👍 two thumbs up for that Ms. Teresa😉
Absolutely the best wheel lacing video I’ve seen. Thank you! Because of your video, I was able to build my first wheel and it turned out beautifully!
a very good instructive video, all steps were easy to understand, well done
Hi t
Excellent video, thank you.
5:12 spokes chaos:wheel is laceing in steps 1/4, first goes inner half of spokes on drive side then inner half of left side, then second half of drive side- outher spokes and then second half of left side, outher spokes, and one error is : on gear/drive side of wheel,first spoke that is right of valve hole must be inside, your is outhside
Hello Makan - Interesting comments. Four lacing patterns are achievable for a semi tangential wheel. Two asymmetric inside and outside spokes being reversed., and two symmetrical two trailing, two leading. Very little advantage can be argued one over the other. All I would suggest is the drive side trailing spoke should be outside thereby helping proved an unshipped chain getting wedged between cassette and spokes.
Good video on the basics of wheel building albeit an old school approach. It intrigues me that no measuring instruments are used e.g. dial indicators for truing and tension meters for spoke tension. Being an engineer I like the idea of meeting tolerances rather than just visual judgement on true and feel or pitch in regard to spoke tension. Dial indicators and tension meters are pretty cheap these days and would be a worthy addition to the wheel builders tool kit. A wheel built with tight tolerances for truing and consistent spoke tension that is not too loose or too tight is ultimately a good wheel that should perform well over the long term.
Dial indicators serve no useful purpose in wheel truing, other than giving you a number to brag about (or charge extra for) for an unloaded wheel, you can get closer than the deflection that actually loading the wheel (getting on your bike) causes with a fixed pointer, you just can't upsell the result based off meaningless numbers. For carbon rims you can get right down to less deflection than the manufacturing tolerances re thickness of the lay up introduces.
Tension meters allow inexperienced builders to get consistent results, I guess they have a place as a rough guide, but don't confuse resolution with accuracy, the ones sold to bike mechanics aren't that great as actual measuring instruments, as trying half a dozen of them on the same spoke in the same wheel would tell you.
I agree.. Dial indicators are a useless tool for wheel truing.. A contact point and a white piece of paper to judge the gap is all that is needed.. dishing and truing must be done at the same time.. I have built thousands of wheels and this is my technique.. Tension meters may be useful on carbon rims and high tension low spoke number wheels.. BTW.. the Var spoke wrench she is using is also my favorite..
Great video by the way what year was this filmed, I can see it’s pretty old.
Very good Theresa I your an excellent teacher and I hope it doesn't become a lost skill
I've read elsewhere about stressing the wheel after it has been tensioned up so called to pull the hard stainless steel spokes into the softer aluminium hub in order to bed them. Is this something you recommend?
hello, thank you for this wonderful movie in which the steps are shown perfectly. What strikes me is the fact that there is no mention of push and pull spokes. The pull spokes have the head on the inside and they are in the direction of travel. The push spokes have the head on the outside. You always start with the spoke head outwards, but if the first spoke has to come to the right of the valve, the orientation is no longer correct according to the described principle. Do you think that the orientation of the spoke heads does not have much influence on the strength of the wheel? Curious about your thoughts on this topic. Sincerely Ronald
very good, I also noted that there was no mention of using a spoke tension meter .
no need, just experience
Great video and thanks!
Hi i need some info.the spoke on the gear side is much shorter than the other side.
wheel building is hard ... d labour mist be as expensive as d wheel itself ❤️👍
Great video, great method. I really enjoyed watching this, and am going to go and work through this right away.
I have a couple of questions:
Why would you slacken all the spokes and start again if you overshoot the dish?
And, what is the name of your dishing tool? That is a far superior design to the park tool one I have. I really like the way it engages at the hub.
Many thanks!
Hozan C-335 Wheel Alignment Dishing Tool
@@deltafour1212 thank you!
@@tawraste You're welcome
High quality rim indeed and a Hope hub!
Pero que pasa cuando el cuadro te pide asia dónde jalar más .y si asimétrico.porque me a pasado....ay que buscar a donde te pide .yo trabajo a dónde me pide el cuadro y me a dado resultados.el ensayar es un arte.ok
Perfect!!
Joss
Nothing wrong with "Old School".
Hozan C-335 Wheel Alignment Dishing Tool
Pretty amateur lacing though. The hub logo isn't aligned with the valve hole. She had the rim backwards so the logo on the rim can't be read forwards from the drive side. That initial spoke layout scratched the rim too many times.
what side ?? this side !! 😂😂👍
LoveIt
I'm a bicycle maintenance specialist. Do you accept me to work with you?
🤣🤣🤣