Regarding your inquiry as to whether your viewership would be interested in the process of producing Bainitic structured blades: YES PLEASE! I am setting up salt bath equipment for that very purpose at this time, and any information you can share would be greatly appreciate.
There are a few distinct advantages to using salts for austenitizing in the knife shop. In the past, the most important to me was the very even heat over long blade lengths. For "longish" blades accurate and precise temperature control is very easy. There are no hot or cold spots in the salts. Larrin mentioned how salt pretty much eliminates scale and decarb. This advantage allows a maker to shape the blade to nearly finished dimensions and grit/finish level. This can be a huge advantage with inlaid and engraved work. A very thin film of salt protects the blade on the way to the quench, but does not slow the quench speed. The salt pot also has greater thermal mass than an open air kiln. The mass of the salt keeps the temperature fluctuations down while adding or removing blades. This makes it easier to heat treat several blades at the same time. As stated in the video, it really all comes down to what you are doing. In my recent research work, we never used the salts for austetitizing. We did use them a couple times to step down during a quench above 1350° F. For my knife and razor work, I haven't used them in over a year, maybe two years. These days, my work revolves around my home smelted steel, with clay controlled hamons. Putting a blade with clay in to a 1475° salt bath is a very bad idea!!! As with most trades and crafts, you choose your tools according to the scope of your work.
I just bought your book last week and I have already read it from front to back. It already has notes written in it that I’ve taken from more in-depth videos like these. Your work is appreciated more than you know.
G'day Larin, I'm eagerly awaiting a delivery from Amazon of your book Knife Engineering and I thoroughly enjoy catching up on episode's of knife steel nerds and I can't thank you enough for making this wonderful resource available to us all. Best wishes from Australia.👍✌️⚒️
Thank you Larin for another great video! Currently about %20 through Knife Engineering and I cannot thank you enough for all the knowledge. It has changed the way I approach knives, sharpening, and gear entirely. Thank you!!
been doing Partial bainites on 52100 for a decade, but as I don't use O1 (like Ray Mears' knife) many in the UK won't go for it as they "don't think it's better than Ray's Knife", but anyways, the only downside is remembering to really clean the blades after the salt bath to prevent a kind of flash rust, then coat in oil...motor bike fork oil, engine oil, gearbox oil, whatever is available in the garage...
Your heat treatment always interested me very much. I have a karambit heat treated by you and finished by Doberman knives and it's one of my most precious knives. BTW, do you know anything about Andy (Doberman knives)?
@@hugofeynman a Legend of a cool guy, but had back injury then a bike/car crash I think...he put out some great work, back in the day of early youtubey knife guys guys like him, Dell Webber and I had a blast doing crazy stuff in the Wild West of the Interweb all before shadow banning and demonetising
Hi Larrin, thanks a lot for this very interesting study, video and article. You need to clone yourself so we can get even more of these! Your contribution to the knife industrie and community is priceless. Thumbs up!
Has been my experience as well when it comes to austenizing. In larger batch volume, I found it to be superior to vacuum furnaces. Really shines when you want to do lots of blades at very high consistency. Thanks for the great video Larrin!
Great job Larrin, thanks for sharing. Always have been interested in salt baths, and it was vey helpful watching your overview. This home shop Harry, will be sticking with my good old air furnace. Looks like the salt bath is awesome for specific things, but the air furnace is definitely more versatile.
I had the amazing bladesmith at jjk customs (Jenn) make one of my own desings in 8670 around 59-61 Rockwell it's a drop point recurve with aggressive angles and a big belly on the tip and my god does that thing just take what ever I've thrown at it it's pretty thick too it's an absolute monster and I love it! P. S. I cut into my index finger and cut through some bone just wiping the blade off and my paper towel slipped was still shaving sharp after wards...
Superb work Larin. I appreciate it greatly! If you should ever do a video or write about Tobias Hangler's fluidized sand bed heat treat method, I'm certain that would also be fascinating.
Fluidized sand is sort of in the middle as it isn’t quite as fast as salt. So from a “mechanisms” standpoint I’m not interested and I probably wouldn’t be the one for talking about building them or operating them.
Thing with the immersion types is that there's a really consistent contact between the steel and the medium, for most of us air is going to be perfectly fine in a controlled furnace but there may be cases if a blade is up a bit close to an element or off to one side in an less than optimal kiln shape that could see hot/cold spotting. Its a world if difference if someone was going from forge heat treatments and I think for knife makers there's a lot of potential still with the salt pot for those 500C+ tempering cycles on some of the tool steels. The lack of scale though I think might mean its worth it to some folks. I think it was Tobias Hagler that was developing some fluidised sand beds treatments with carbides and they seem to be working very well for him and may take higher temps compared to salts
I definitely have had a small salt pot explode on me, it was a homemade propane fired one and from what I can figure there was condensation of water on the small piece of steel. It was scary, but I wasn't hurt. I have heard the myths of fingerprints causing trouble, the sharpie one too, but I am unsure of how much truth there is to that. The benefits of it, IMHO, outweigh the risks, which can be mitigated with some respect and proper PPE
I don't know about a Sharpie. But layout blue will get you. Thermocouple sheath failures can be bad too. Greasy vice-grips dropped in can nearly kill you. Ask me how I know... :O
We used hot salt pots to clean cooled melted polymer from small holes in steel extruder jets. Polymer is heated, extruded, stretched, crimped then cut into hair fine fibers used for Swiffer wipes, diapers, feminine hygiene products, carpet etc.
Are there any advantages to energy consumption, speed of kiln reaching desired temperature, or are both of those equal. I understand that heating the blade stock is quicker with the salt, but what about wait time to get to desired temperatures? I can't find anything on those comparisons. Great vid!
Good to keep in mind that there's no secret ultra special magic pixie dust infused heat treatment.. just far too many mediocre ones! I remember following some rabbit hole person claiming to do some wonky bainite austemper thing to get tough blades at nearly untempered hardness values.. it's probably just total BS. Salt baths do seem awesome if you're doing higher production runs in a bladesmith shop with great consistency. Perhaps you can get more carbon dissolution with less grain growth thanks to the speed, but it's still just a trade of properties here and there. The only interesting thing I could see is if you could "super heat treat" a coupon versus typical heat treatment. One with significant grain reduction steps by fast cycles, salt quench, slight autotemper, double temper.. how much higher toughness over regular textbook heat treatment?
Would heat treating hammer heads still be quicker in salt baths or does the size of the steel being heat treated in the salt bath effect how fast it would come up to temp?
I got a vacuum tube furnace made by across international in an auction for cheap. I was thinking about heat treatment with it. Unfortunately I can’t find any one doing that. Any recommendations? Use Nobel gas for convection heat transfer vs vacuum. Quench with plate vs force air?
Would you expect to lose toughness if you did not quench between heat cycles but rather let it return to pearlite? I am wondering if I am potentially reducing toughness when I normalize after forging at high temperatures by cycling at ~1500 in the forge before grinding and heat treating in an electric furnace.
Yes, potentially. It depends on the carbon and alloy content of the steel. But austenitizing 1% carbon steels from pearlite means high hardness and medium to low toughness is just about your only choice.
Is there any negative effect from sticking the steel in a 100/105 °C overn to off gas any trapped moisture? My intuition would say the temperature is so low that it wouldn't matter
I wanna see what happens when you quench in a 200-225°C salt bath and see what material properties/knife performance you can get out of lower-bainitic (named after the great, American metallurgist Edgar C. Baine) steel! Please, please, please!
Not sure if you have been talking to KKknives at all, but he is getting exceptional toughness and typically 3-5 higher RC's that most would consider safe. And i'm 90% sure he solely uses salt. Theres too small a sample here to really make any definitive statements on.. Would like to see more on salt though.
@@KnifeSteelNerds Not necessary no, but he has shown higher rcs than most, with finer structures than companies like spyderco though... Probably worth speaking to though, I htink anyway.
You should talk to Roman about why he uses salt baths. He uses it for many advantages, but he doesn't always use them. He's talked about it years ago but I can't recall everything discussed due to how long it was, it's better to get from him directly.
Roman of Kase knives learned from Roman Landes. Here's a quote from one of Landes protocols Salt bath will cut the soak time appx. by 1/3 and thus give better aus-grain. The preheating steps will assure the the austenization steps can be done quick. Quicker speed >> smaller grain
I’ve long wanted a salt pot. I’ve also wanted to design and build a deep cryo freezer that the cooling rate can be controlled down to -300 Fahrenheit. I’ve read that the controlled cooling can further reduce retained austenite compared to the standard liquid nitrogen process? Can you speak to that at all?
Retained austenite stabilizes with time so a slower cooling rate would not lead to less retained austenite. It would be like quenching steel slower and expecting higher hardness.
@@KnifeSteelNerds haha of course. I should know that. Writing before being fully awake today! If I remember right, the paper was looking at austenite reversion suppression in high alloy PM steels and how slowing the rate at which the steel returned to room temperature could reduce it. I could be confusing things completely but I believe the research was along those lines?
There are indeed papers claiming a slower cooling rate leads to an improvement of some kind. I’m not a believer. I have a few cryo articles that talk about it.
@@KnifeSteelNerds okay thanks! I believe the juice wasn’t worth the squeeze but the researchers made a solid case that their process did modify the microstructural evolution. Now I need to find that paper and read it again haha! I look forward to your next video!
@@gravytrainoutdoorsI've read papers that have mentioned slow cooling times are beneficial, they even make cryo machines that do slow cooling, so maybe it is a marketing thing. There's some knife makers that swear by slow cryo. I remember makers used to get warping when plunging straight into cryo and now it's standard practice as long as the stress removed prior. Also another paper that showed two days in cryo beneficial. That study was on d2. After 2 days there were no improvements.
I don't think alot of the arm chair blacksmiths know that 2 types of steel that are almost identical with the exception of 0.2% of any single ingredient in the mix and they might as well not even be the same material any more based on there qualities so the way you would screw up the heat treat on one knife is the only way to harden another
🤔...How long does carbon stay in solution after cooling? What were your controls for the triple quench did you let them cool to room temp, go right back in or temper between baths? Side note: What is the rate of Decarburization of common steels at austenitization temperature compared to forging temperatures? (I have been trying to find this for a long time.)
Regarding decarburization: If I’m not mistaken, one of the primary reasons for the use of neutral salt baths is that the steel is in an oxygen free environment that prevents decarburization from happening. I understand that several knife makers bring their knives just short of final finishing prior to heat treatment because salt bath heat treatment has a negligible impact on surface finish.
The carbon stays in solution when you quench it, you let some out during tempering. I triple quenched by quenching not by air cooling, no tempering in between. Decarburization is faster at higher temperatures but the comparison isn’t always perfect because atmospheres can be different (ie a “reducing” atmosphere in the forge).
I still want to see what happens when you take pearlitic (and maybe martensitic) steel, and heat it to right around the temperature it transforms to austenite. I wonder if, 1 you can control hardness with much lower austenitizing temps. 2 if other properties wont be hurt as much.
I did this experiment with 1084 and 52100 in the heat treating in a forge article. I austenitized them right from nonmagnetic in my furnace and measured the as-quenched hardness. 1084 was 66 and 52100 was 67 Rc. So to answer your question it apparently wasn’t possibly to appreciably control the hardness even with lower temperatures.
@@KnifeSteelNerds i still would imagine just going off of nonmagentic is still going to be hotter than the point right around when the phase change starts happening. At least trying to judge it in a forge. I feel like you can pretty easily overshoot it by 10, 20 or even 50 degrees and not realize it. To be clear the temps i'm talking about. Are around 1390. Or so
I'd guess it'd be so-so. It's hardness range is higher than you'd generally want for swords and it's toughness (while fantastic for knives) isn't amazing compared to sword steels at sword hardnesses. That's not even getting into how expensive it would be. If you wanted to do a stainless sword then I might look at a steel like 420 or 12c27.
If any UA-cam channels such as this one, are wondering why their viewership #s have dropped over the next month it is likely due to YT forcing 3 mins of unskippable ads on PC even with with adblock enabled. RIP UA-cam.
@@OUTDOORS55 That's true sometimes, but not always. A lot of videos are paid for with Patreon contributions. Not that I disagree that UA-cam has operating costs that need to be covered.
@OUTDOORS55 The money he makes from ads is miniscule compared to patreon. YT made BILLIONS in profit last year. No ads still = videos. Don't defend bullshit corporate practices.
Regarding your inquiry as to whether your viewership would be interested in the process of producing Bainitic structured blades: YES PLEASE! I am setting up salt bath equipment for that very purpose at this time, and any information you can share would be greatly appreciate.
There are a few distinct advantages to using salts for austenitizing in the knife shop. In the past, the most important to me was the very even heat over long blade lengths. For "longish" blades accurate and precise temperature control is very easy. There are no hot or cold spots in the salts.
Larrin mentioned how salt pretty much eliminates scale and decarb. This advantage allows a maker to shape the blade to nearly finished dimensions and grit/finish level. This can be a huge advantage with inlaid and engraved work. A very thin film of salt protects the blade on the way to the quench, but does not slow the quench speed.
The salt pot also has greater thermal mass than an open air kiln. The mass of the salt keeps the temperature fluctuations down while adding or removing blades. This makes it easier to heat treat several blades at the same time.
As stated in the video, it really all comes down to what you are doing. In my recent research work, we never used the salts for austetitizing. We did use them a couple times to step down during a quench above 1350° F. For my knife and razor work, I haven't used them in over a year, maybe two years. These days, my work revolves around my home smelted steel, with clay controlled hamons. Putting a blade with clay in to a 1475° salt bath is a very bad idea!!! As with most trades and crafts, you choose your tools according to the scope of your work.
Thanks for commenting, Tim!
I just bought your book last week and I have already read it from front to back. It already has notes written in it that I’ve taken from more in-depth videos like these. Your work is appreciated more than you know.
Definitely interested in seeing more salt bath tests for austempering.
G'day Larin, I'm eagerly awaiting a delivery from Amazon of your book Knife Engineering and I thoroughly enjoy catching up on episode's of knife steel nerds and I can't thank you enough for making this wonderful resource available to us all. Best wishes from Australia.👍✌️⚒️
Thank you Larin for another great video! Currently about %20 through Knife Engineering and I cannot thank you enough for all the knowledge. It has changed the way I approach knives, sharpening, and gear entirely. Thank you!!
been doing Partial bainites on 52100 for a decade, but as I don't use O1 (like Ray Mears' knife) many in the UK won't go for it as they "don't think it's better than Ray's Knife", but anyways, the only downside is remembering to really clean the blades after the salt bath to prevent a kind of flash rust, then coat in oil...motor bike fork oil, engine oil, gearbox oil, whatever is available in the garage...
Haven't heard of him but he must be a big deal
Your heat treatment always interested me very much. I have a karambit heat treated by you and finished by Doberman knives and it's one of my most precious knives. BTW, do you know anything about Andy (Doberman knives)?
@@KnifeSteelNerds google Ray Mears, the original Alan Wood knife is the Woodlore,,, crazy money now about £500 for £15 of steel
@@hugofeynman a Legend of a cool guy, but had back injury then a bike/car crash I think...he put out some great work, back in the day of early youtubey knife guys guys like him, Dell Webber and I had a blast doing crazy stuff in the Wild West of the Interweb all before shadow banning and demonetising
@@KnifeSteelNerds Ray Mears is a famous UK bushcraft guy. Or 'bloke' in this case.
Hi Larrin,
thanks a lot for this very interesting study, video and article.
You need to clone yourself so we can get even more of these!
Your contribution to the knife industrie and community is priceless.
Thumbs up!
Has been my experience as well when it comes to austenizing. In larger batch volume, I found it to be superior to vacuum furnaces. Really shines when you want to do lots of blades at very high consistency.
Thanks for the great video Larrin!
Great job Larrin, thanks for sharing. Always have been interested in salt baths, and it was vey helpful watching your overview. This home shop Harry, will be sticking with my good old air furnace. Looks like the salt bath is awesome for specific things, but the air furnace is definitely more versatile.
Great info, thanks Larin
I had the amazing bladesmith at jjk customs (Jenn) make one of my own desings in 8670 around 59-61 Rockwell it's a drop point recurve with aggressive angles and a big belly on the tip and my god does that thing just take what ever I've thrown at it it's pretty thick too it's an absolute monster and I love it! P. S. I cut into my index finger and cut through some bone just wiping the blade off and my paper towel slipped was still shaving sharp after wards...
Fascinating as usual.....👏
Superb work Larin. I appreciate it greatly!
If you should ever do a video or write about Tobias Hangler's fluidized sand bed heat treat method, I'm certain that would also be fascinating.
Fluidized sand is sort of in the middle as it isn’t quite as fast as salt. So from a “mechanisms” standpoint I’m not interested and I probably wouldn’t be the one for talking about building them or operating them.
@@KnifeSteelNerds Thank you for the information.
Thing with the immersion types is that there's a really consistent contact between the steel and the medium, for most of us air is going to be perfectly fine in a controlled furnace but there may be cases if a blade is up a bit close to an element or off to one side in an less than optimal kiln shape that could see hot/cold spotting. Its a world if difference if someone was going from forge heat treatments and I think for knife makers there's a lot of potential still with the salt pot for those 500C+ tempering cycles on some of the tool steels. The lack of scale though I think might mean its worth it to some folks.
I think it was Tobias Hagler that was developing some fluidised sand beds treatments with carbides and they seem to be working very well for him and may take higher temps compared to salts
I definitely have had a small salt pot explode on me, it was a homemade propane fired one and from what I can figure there was condensation of water on the small piece of steel. It was scary, but I wasn't hurt. I have heard the myths of fingerprints causing trouble, the sharpie one too, but I am unsure of how much truth there is to that. The benefits of it, IMHO, outweigh the risks, which can be mitigated with some respect and proper PPE
I don't know about a Sharpie. But layout blue will get you. Thermocouple sheath failures can be bad too. Greasy vice-grips dropped in can nearly kill you. Ask me how I know... :O
We used hot salt pots to clean cooled melted polymer from small holes in steel extruder jets. Polymer is heated, extruded, stretched, crimped then cut into hair fine fibers used for Swiffer wipes, diapers, feminine hygiene products, carpet etc.
I would love to see all this detail on your magnacut. I bet you have it somewhere, but the salt bath is interesting.
Are there any advantages to energy consumption, speed of kiln reaching desired temperature, or are both of those equal. I understand that heating the blade stock is quicker with the salt, but what about wait time to get to desired temperatures? I can't find anything on those comparisons. Great vid!
I guess doing a DET anneal in the salt bath would be nice and quick.
Good to keep in mind that there's no secret ultra special magic pixie dust infused heat treatment.. just far too many mediocre ones!
I remember following some rabbit hole person claiming to do some wonky bainite austemper thing to get tough blades at nearly untempered hardness values.. it's probably just total BS.
Salt baths do seem awesome if you're doing higher production runs in a bladesmith shop with great consistency. Perhaps you can get more carbon dissolution with less grain growth thanks to the speed, but it's still just a trade of properties here and there.
The only interesting thing I could see is if you could "super heat treat" a coupon versus typical heat treatment. One with significant grain reduction steps by fast cycles, salt quench, slight autotemper, double temper.. how much higher toughness over regular textbook heat treatment?
Would heat treating hammer heads still be quicker in salt baths or does the size of the steel being heat treated in the salt bath effect how fast it would come up to temp?
I got a vacuum tube furnace made by across international in an auction for cheap. I was thinking about heat treatment with it. Unfortunately I can’t find any one doing that. Any recommendations? Use Nobel gas for convection heat transfer vs vacuum. Quench with plate vs force air?
Would you expect to lose toughness if you did not quench between heat cycles but rather let it return to pearlite? I am wondering if I am potentially reducing toughness when I normalize after forging at high temperatures by cycling at ~1500 in the forge before grinding and heat treating in an electric furnace.
Yes, potentially. It depends on the carbon and alloy content of the steel. But austenitizing 1% carbon steels from pearlite means high hardness and medium to low toughness is just about your only choice.
Will table salt work?
Is there any negative effect from sticking the steel in a 100/105 °C overn to off gas any trapped moisture? My intuition would say the temperature is so low that it wouldn't matter
That wouldn't be a problem, no.
Plaese do austempering video
I wanna see what happens when you quench in a 200-225°C salt bath and see what material properties/knife performance you can get out of lower-bainitic (named after the great, American metallurgist Edgar C. Baine) steel! Please, please, please!
Not sure if you have been talking to KKknives at all, but he is getting exceptional toughness and typically 3-5 higher RC's that most would consider safe. And i'm 90% sure he solely uses salt.
Theres too small a sample here to really make any definitive statements on..
Would like to see more on salt though.
On two “K’s.” I don’t think he exclusively uses salt but salt is not necessary for high hardness.
@@KnifeSteelNerds Not necessary no, but he has shown higher rcs than most, with finer structures than companies like spyderco though...
Probably worth speaking to though, I htink anyway.
You should talk to Roman about why he uses salt baths. He uses it for many advantages, but he doesn't always use them. He's talked about it years ago but I can't recall everything discussed due to how long it was, it's better to get from him directly.
Roman of Kase knives learned from Roman Landes. Here's a quote from one of Landes protocols
Salt bath will cut the soak time appx. by 1/3 and thus give better aus-grain.
The preheating steps will assure the the austenization steps can be done quick. Quicker speed >> smaller grain
It may be out of context without the full protocol, but you can find it yourself easily by the quote.
I’ve long wanted a salt pot. I’ve also wanted to design and build a deep cryo freezer that the cooling rate can be controlled down to -300 Fahrenheit. I’ve read that the controlled cooling can further reduce retained austenite compared to the standard liquid nitrogen process? Can you speak to that at all?
Retained austenite stabilizes with time so a slower cooling rate would not lead to less retained austenite. It would be like quenching steel slower and expecting higher hardness.
@@KnifeSteelNerds haha of course. I should know that. Writing before being fully awake today! If I remember right, the paper was looking at austenite reversion suppression in high alloy PM steels and how slowing the rate at which the steel returned to room temperature could reduce it. I could be confusing things completely but I believe the research was along those lines?
There are indeed papers claiming a slower cooling rate leads to an improvement of some kind. I’m not a believer. I have a few cryo articles that talk about it.
@@KnifeSteelNerds okay thanks! I believe the juice wasn’t worth the squeeze but the researchers made a solid case that their process did modify the microstructural evolution. Now I need to find that paper and read it again haha! I look forward to your next video!
@@gravytrainoutdoorsI've read papers that have mentioned slow cooling times are beneficial, they even make cryo machines that do slow cooling, so maybe it is a marketing thing. There's some knife makers that swear by slow cryo.
I remember makers used to get warping when plunging straight into cryo and now it's standard practice as long as the stress removed prior.
Also another paper that showed two days in cryo beneficial. That study was on d2. After 2 days there were no improvements.
Won't the steel oxidize as soon as it hits the air when it is covered in salt?
No. The steel is protected by a very thin film of salt.
I don't think alot of the arm chair blacksmiths know that 2 types of steel that are almost identical with the exception of 0.2% of any single ingredient in the mix and they might as well not even be the same material any more based on there qualities so the way you would screw up the heat treat on one knife is the only way to harden another
Can you shape the blade and grind it before the salt bath?
Yes
@@KnifeSteelNerds so it should be a cheaper way to produce.
less grinding time and less wear on grinding wheels
🤔...How long does carbon stay in solution after cooling? What were your controls for the triple quench did you let them cool to room temp, go right back in or temper between baths?
Side note: What is the rate of Decarburization of common steels at austenitization temperature compared to forging temperatures? (I have been trying to find this for a long time.)
Regarding decarburization: If I’m not mistaken, one of the primary reasons for the use of neutral salt baths is that the steel is in an oxygen free environment that prevents decarburization from happening. I understand that several knife makers bring their knives just short of final finishing prior to heat treatment because salt bath heat treatment has a negligible impact on surface finish.
The carbon stays in solution when you quench it, you let some out during tempering. I triple quenched by quenching not by air cooling, no tempering in between. Decarburization is faster at higher temperatures but the comparison isn’t always perfect because atmospheres can be different (ie a “reducing” atmosphere in the forge).
Hey Larin , what do you think of PD #1
It’s the same as CPM CruWear
I still want to see what happens when you take pearlitic (and maybe martensitic) steel, and heat it to right around the temperature it transforms to austenite.
I wonder if, 1 you can control hardness with much lower austenitizing temps.
2 if other properties wont be hurt as much.
I did this experiment with 1084 and 52100 in the heat treating in a forge article. I austenitized them right from nonmagnetic in my furnace and measured the as-quenched hardness. 1084 was 66 and 52100 was 67 Rc. So to answer your question it apparently wasn’t possibly to appreciably control the hardness even with lower temperatures.
@@KnifeSteelNerds i still would imagine just going off of nonmagentic is still going to be hotter than the point right around when the phase change starts happening.
At least trying to judge it in a forge. I feel like you can pretty easily overshoot it by 10, 20 or even 50 degrees and not realize it.
To be clear the temps i'm talking about. Are around 1390. Or so
In my comment I said that portion of the experiment was done with a furnace. The 1084 was quenched from 1385F.
@@KnifeSteelNerds ah. Ok, i guess it never made it into the article.
It is there, look carefully
Unrelated to Salt Pots, How do you think Magnacut would preform as a sword steel?
I'd guess it'd be so-so. It's hardness range is higher than you'd generally want for swords and it's toughness (while fantastic for knives) isn't amazing compared to sword steels at sword hardnesses. That's not even getting into how expensive it would be. If you wanted to do a stainless sword then I might look at a steel like 420 or 12c27.
I can't believe i just watched a 20 minute video on soaking.
I can't even FIND a salt that is rated for stainless steel temps that I can buy.
There are lots of them out there but they are being sold to industry, not tiny amounts to individuals.
@KnifeSteelNerds Yep. Just like you said, I can't buy them.
If you want to see molten salt react with water the Slow Mo Guys just did a short video:
ua-cam.com/video/_ZaLmIh4-Qg/v-deo.html
If any UA-cam channels such as this one, are wondering why their viewership #s have dropped over the next month it is likely due to YT forcing 3 mins of unskippable ads on PC even with with adblock enabled. RIP UA-cam.
If you want youtube to continue, remember where the content comes from. Ads pay for the videos. No ads, no videos.
@@OUTDOORS55 That's true sometimes, but not always. A lot of videos are paid for with Patreon contributions. Not that I disagree that UA-cam has operating costs that need to be covered.
There are ways around it. But I can't say them because they will be censored by the ai.
Haven't had that yet with ublock. Adblock plus has been garbage for ages.
@OUTDOORS55 The money he makes from ads is miniscule compared to patreon. YT made BILLIONS in profit last year. No ads still = videos. Don't defend bullshit corporate practices.