NOW THIS IS WHAT A CUSTOM KEYBOARD LOOKS LIKE ...GREAT JOB MAN ...I ALSO WANNA THANK MYSELF CAUSE I NEVER KNEW THAT THE KNOWLEDGE OF 3D MODELLING IN BLENDER AND ARDUINO WOULD HELP ME THIS MUCH, I ALSO LEARNT SOME NEW THINGS TODAY LIKE YOU CAN DESIGN YOUR KEYBOARD LAYOUT IN SUCH WAY ON AN WEBSITE, WHAT YOU DID IN THE BEGINNING. GREAT JOB MAN.
You know, until now I never thought to move the normal numbers keys row as a numpad.. The only time I ever use the number row really is for games that use those numbers, but generally only to about 5 and those can be remapped to something else. Great idea on that piece.
I modeled my own case and did this project from scratch, did the firmware manually too since the firmware builder is too outdated. There is only one question i have before assembling everything, i don't have the CC pins on my usb type-c board, only data -/+, ground and VCC pins. I'll see if it works but other than that it went really smooth! Thanks for the amazing tutorial.
This has been very educational and has given me hope that its possible to make my own keyboard design. Thanks so much! Btw I use Harimau tactile switches and Kailh Silent Midnight Pro Tactile switches.
Thanks a ton for the awesome video! Following your video step by step to create my own custom keyboard! Just had a question, at 16:18, how did you expose the wire right where you want the connections to be made? I can't find any way on how to do it.
I stripped the wire by heating up the insulation with my soldering iron when it begins to melt, I pull it apart to expose the wire. I found this method to be faster, just don't breathe in the plastic fumes. I have another video about a 3D printed keyboard where I mention this technique. If your wire has very heat resistant insulation, you will need to strip the wires using a blade or wire cutters.
@MadModLabs Thanks for the quick reply! I tried burning the insulator myself but it just turned into a black blob of melted plastic. Could you please link me to the video where you talk about the technique? Also, what would I be looking for if I wanted to get the same wires as the ones you used?
Here is the video link with the timecode where I mentioned soldering the columns: ua-cam.com/video/iOeYkLlq9Ds/v-deo.html The wire that I use is cheap, solid-core, 24 AWG. This is pretty close to what I use: amzn.to/3zkCKrk You could probably use magnet wire too. This type of wire is really easy to solder because the insulation melts away easily: amzn.to/4gqyE1s
The keyboard firmware builder needs to be updated for the RP2040 processor. The RPi Pico and clones are fast becoming a popular keyboard controller. If you use the pico w, it should be possible to mod the firmware to connect wirelessly via bluetooth now that the bluetooth libraries have been released for the RP2040 SDK. There is also a Micro Python clone of QMK as well.
Would it be possible to create some sort of small wire channel in the 3D print for the column cables? I’d bet it would help with the build and make everything easier and neater. Thanks for the video!
I used to make kb like this 3 years ago. and its great for starters. But the moment i started using qmk for my boards it worked great! I manage to use NKRO among other functions.
Very interesting video! I don't think I'll ever do a keyboard like that myself, but I have a ton of respect for anyone who does 🙂 On the topic of switches, I use Gateron Oil Kings in my main boards, and Akko Jelly Blacks in my travel board.
Great resource. I think I'll start with a numpad so I don't screw up a huge design on my first go. What do you think about PCBs and/or plates? Is there any benefit to using a support plate like you designed and a PCB under the switches? Or does the PCB replace the plate entirely?
Most keyboards have a plate and a PCB. The PCB's main purpose is to connect the switch matrix electrically. Using a plate and PCB together will help the keyboard stay rigid, even though some keyboards have a small amount of flex. It is possible to make a keyboard with no plate at all. I would want to use a thick PCB to make sure the keyboard is not flexible.
Fascinating and informative video! Thank you! If you don't mind me asking, what was the approximate cost of the materials you used? I have built two keyboards using PCB and I'm wondering if hand wiring is significantly cheaper. Thanks again!
I use repurposed cherry browns (pre-hyperglide like 92-95yr model) and lube them. Ordering some akko jelly lavenders soon and some good quality cap from KBFfans. Probably the WOBs
Since we are already consulting PCB-Way, could you make a video how to design a circuitboars that makes the keys hotswapable, or is that too expensive for a DIY project? Great video by the way!^^
Hello! This is an amazing video, I have been inspired to buil one of your keyboard. This will be my first keyboard project. I was wondering if you could do a 4x4 or 5x5 macropad?
@@calyx0 I'm glad you will be building a keyboard. Macropads are pretty simple. I have built a few different size keyboards and macro pads. Please check them out on my Printables page. www.printables.com/@MadModLabs
For a small, portable keyboard, I would reduce the width of Tab, Caps, and Left Shift. Same for Backspace, \, Enter and Right Shift. That alone requires a custom PCB, and we haven't even talked about switches and keycaps.
Thanks for the Video. You've just answered the one question I've had, and been looking for for the last 2 days.. Ie how does the firmware know how the switches know are wired to the controller.
What is the type of wire you used? looks like it has intermittent soldering points? (the colour change) is this right? not the same as your link? maybe im wrong. can you pls elaborate?
@@federicoroldan1441 I just used some recycled wire. It is old twisted pair wire like the wire that is inside an Ethernet or phone cable. The colored marks on the wire do not correlate with soldering points. It is just color-coded wire. I try to use recycled materials when I can to avoid creating waste.
I need to find a good tutorial that explains how to choose the controller board. But your tutorial is amazing!!! I am still stuck with gateron brown switches.
The biggest factor for me when choosing a controller board is the number of usable pins. I like to keep the matrix wiring simple when possible so more pins Is usually better until the size becomes a problem. Some controllers are better for for special features like wireless connections or backlighting but I usually try to keep the build simple and keep costs low. Thanks for watching!
Great Video! I am just getting into this topic myself and learned alot. Ill get on trying this myself and see whether I get anywhere with that! Do you maybe have a discord for people to discuss? Id love to learn some more, i.e. how to make an self-made RGB board with that method!
Is there any noticeable latency or anything doing this? I was always warned not to use arduino for a keyboard like this? I'm wondering if I was just misinformed.
I can't notice any latency. I'm not sure how it would compare to a top-shelf gaming keyboard. If you are unsure of using Arduino, you could build the same keyboard with a different controller. A friend of mine recently built a 3D printed keyboard and used a Raspberry Pi Pico as the controller.
I was always trying to do something like this. Are there any communities that you recommend which can help me? Also, because this is 3d printed I was wondering if I could get this machined in acrylic or other materials on PCB way.
I would say UA-cam is the best place to learn 3D modeling. There are lots of really good tutorials available for free. I am not really active in any mechanical keyboard communities but if you want to learn how to program a keyboard, the QMK discord is probably a good place to look.
Hi i just want to ask how do you know what type of switch you are using ? I'm planning to make a keyboard with the leobog ash v3 switch but i don't know what type of hole will fit
LEBOG ash wood will fit in a Cherry MX plate. The switches themselves are very similar to switches manufactured by Otemu. Most switches will fit in a MX plate. If you plan on using a PCB make sure it is compatible with Otemu/Akko switches.
Fusion 360 is not bad bad, but there was an update not too long ago that gimped exporting and that made it less interesting for me. There are alternatives, one of which is SolidEdge Community Edition. It has other limits on it, but it works better for me.
SolidEdge is great! Recently, I have been trying out OnShape and it looks promising. It is cloudy based, so you can run it on pretty much any computer.
Question: When using the arduino as your controller for the custom keyboard, - does such keyboard end up having any issues with simultaneous keys pressed (imagine Ctrl+Shift+Alt+C as example)? This would literally be a showstopper for me to refuse the idea (need big combos to work in IDEs).
I tested this just now. The keyboard recognizes up to 9 simultaneous keystrokes when using the modifier keys like Ctrl+Shift+Alt. If you frequently use big key combos, writing your own firmware is the perfect opportunity to simplify them. You could assign them all on a function layer or even build a keyboard with a built-in "macropad" that could input your key combos with one keystroke.
Hey there, I've been following these steps to make a keyboard of my own for a while and I've somehow gotten it to work almost perfectly Every key works except for one single column, which I've discovered that the moment the keyboard's plugged in, every key in it from first to last fires once until the last key, which then repeats its signal until any other key is pressed. Pressing any of keys in the one column doesn't output anything afterwards I'm not sure if you'd be able to help with this issue as I'm using the Teensy++ 2.0 and not the Teensy 2.0 but I hope you can! Thanks
@@Flippr it sounds like that column is shorting out to ground somewhere. First I would check all the diodes and make sure they are all going the same direction. Next I would check the column wire. Make sure the insulation is not melting off anywhere that would allow the wire to contact another column or row. Also check the solder points on the teensy and make sure they are not bridged together. If that column happens to be connected to pin D6 on the teensy 2.0++ you could try moving it to another pin and editing the firmware accordingly. On the Teensy 2.0++ this pin is also used by the onboard LED. I have had unusual behavior using this pin on some teensy clones. Lastly, you could test each switch in the column individually. It's unlikely to cause the entire row to fail but it's worth checking especially if your switches have been disassembled for lubricating.
@@MadModLabs I just so happen to have it on D6 ;-; I'll try to switch it to another pin the next time I'm able to, unless if there's a way I can easily update the code through the site as moving the wire to another pin may be difficult for me to do
How about creating a Commodore 64 keyboard (like the one you have on your background) with the correct layout for CBM (duh!) and some space leftover space to accommodate a raspberry pi to be able to use the awesome BMC64 project (Bare Metal Commodore 64). Thanks for the video!
20% is enough. Increasing the infill density and wall thickness will change the weight and sound of the finished product slightly. So feel free to experiment.
Hi! - It is very interesting - why work on keyboard starts from very not basic and pretty complex thing? First quetion that appear while you look at typing - what for you nee to hold palms upper than keyaboard while you use fingers? Actually it is logistics connected primitive AI task - how to simplify logistics in connection with context, as it prolongs solutions with new possibilities. The very simple answer to this question - keaboard surface and keys must lay lower than support for wrists, in some area much lower than border of keyaboard. Kinda in pit. In this case your wrists are fixed and fingers, and only, perform job. - Now you can type faster, brain and some muscles are relaxed and free of tasks. But what are the pluses? Borders you receive can be used easily, with low level of mistakes for computer management, like brigthness etc changes, and it is quite natural thing as these functions and its physical realizaion are different. Borders are connection between objects. After it you have ability to add commonly used functions like language change, layout change. You can place it on border going in pit but with something prolonging keyaboard surface to it. Thus you have mixed intermediate functionality, not that separate. It gives another plus current computers don`t have - accented simple tuning. Like changing contrast of text on screen. And so on. It can be done by software. Text, photos, browser prompt for addresses.... And a lot of other different types of interface controls, elements, you can change, copy, delete by pretty simple easy for brain direct clicking by fingers that you move shortly. Next thing you understand - there are some outer devices. Lamp. Teapot. Car. And area outer than border is quite interesting for it. You make some pit - and you got it. But it is not magic of real conduction between separate object with jump of differences. But your design have all possibilities for it already. Switch on teapot. Press on connection "beyween pits" and use numbers or arrows for setting up temperatue or speed of boiling. Teapot can be powered by valuable power tuning, just like your keyaboard... ;-) Switch on lights in room or in house. You don`t need addiotional house management devices any more. As next thing such solution brings - ability to connect base pit to any software pit. You need to establish remote link to some device by clicking some "remote connected surface string" either line outer of bounderies. You can do it in library, bar, train, airplane... In connection to devices around your place... - Yo can pay by it. Ask driver of bus or airplane through specific dialog programs and devices. By clicking several buttons. This is the magic of conduction. - It brings speed and profit growth ,simplifying everything same type. But not simply. With tremendous growth of comfort. And opening new possibilities. Of super magic... 😏 It gives ability to make simple "going-through" communication and function activating. - What can you do with teapot? Well, - teapot can be located under some lamp. Near some refrigerator. So you can use arrows to access it through teapot you use very often, as compared to them. Number of devices can be pretty big. You can use direction for direct connection, or use some menu with names you open by "Show next devices" functionality. Thus it gives ability to reach any detail in any mechanism from any place... In simple comfortable way. Time, cost expenses. collision expenses of performing all of these functionalities with other users - interesting topic. Just like energy etc expenses. But it is not end. You can put automation on these connections. - Like adding same type activating of same or different objects by "glueing connection strings either functions". Turn on lamp on teapot and lamp in place you store broad. It looks like magic. In direct meaning. You can execute teapot and start warming up of car. Or say something to car of your neigbour and not known person blocking your one. Through your car. 😏
Hey man, Im already working on mine and here are two questions that came up: 1 - What to do when the number of columns and rows are greater than the number of pins on the board? 2 - Is it possible to use arduino pro mini instead of teeny? its kindda cheapper down here in brazil thx man
You can use an Arduino for a smaller keyboard builds. They have less pins than the teensy. If you're building a large keyboard you probably want to get a Teensy 2.0 ++. amzn.to/3EfUFi5 The Teensy 2.0 ++ is an awesome controller with lots of pins and it is pretty easy to work with. There's also a way to do this with a Raspberry pi Pico but the firmware creation is completely different than the way demonstrated in this video.
I know you commented this awhile ago, but your keyboard wiring matrix doesn't need to follow the exact rows and columns you have. If you have a 48 key keyboard, for example, if you use a 4x12 matrix, that uses 16 pins. However if you consider you can create groups keys (from a wiring standpoint) into smaller or larger groups, you could create a matrix of 7x7 totalling a maximum of 49 keys (the last 'row' of this wiring would only have 6 keys, to bring back down to 48 actual keys). This arrangement would only need 14 pins. Another example is a 5x12 keyboard - 17 pins needed for a matrix that matches the physical layout, or use an 6x10 matrix only requiring 16 pins. The keyboard shown in the vid needs ~62 switches. If you use a 4x17 matrix, that's 21 pins. However, you can use a 7x9 matrix for 63 possible switchs using only 16 pins. Make sense?
I tried downloading the personal use Fusion 360 and that didn't work so I've had to resort to using FreeCAD which works SO DIFFERENTLY to Fusion360 that I basically have to skip the modelling part of this tutorial and have to hope someone has a FreeCAD tutorial of a similar project.
NOW THIS IS WHAT A CUSTOM KEYBOARD LOOKS LIKE ...GREAT JOB MAN ...I ALSO WANNA THANK MYSELF CAUSE I NEVER KNEW THAT THE KNOWLEDGE OF 3D MODELLING IN BLENDER AND ARDUINO WOULD HELP ME THIS MUCH, I ALSO LEARNT SOME NEW THINGS TODAY LIKE YOU CAN DESIGN YOUR KEYBOARD LAYOUT IN SUCH WAY ON AN WEBSITE, WHAT YOU DID IN THE BEGINNING. GREAT JOB MAN.
man this channel is pure gold... u deserve more views mannn
Thank you for watching!
This was fantastic. Thank you! But you went thru all that work and still kept the top row staggered >_
Bro what a speed-run to build keyboard loved this so much.
You know, until now I never thought to move the normal numbers keys row as a numpad.. The only time I ever use the number row really is for games that use those numbers, but generally only to about 5 and those can be remapped to something else.
Great idea on that piece.
you're a GOD. Very well done, the information density is nuts and super high quality
Very useful video, thanks. Any information on how to add Bluetooth and 2.4 GHz support?
Your a natural tutor, great work
Thanks for watching!
S O M A N Y T H A N K S
I was looking tutorials for doing this and you explained it so easy!
Thanks for watching!
Best keyboard build ever!!
This was just what I was looking for! Thank you so much.
I modeled my own case and did this project from scratch, did the firmware manually too since the firmware builder is too outdated. There is only one question i have before assembling everything, i don't have the CC pins on my usb type-c board, only data -/+, ground and VCC pins. I'll see if it works but other than that it went really smooth! Thanks for the amazing tutorial.
It works wihout those pins, i've been using this keyboard about 1.5 months now and it's great!!!
Looks like I found another fun project to do
Thanks for watching. I hope your keyboard turns out awesome!
Excellent and very informative
Great video! I was looking for a tutorial and this was perfect.
This has been very educational and has given me hope that its possible to make my own keyboard design. Thanks so much!
Btw I use Harimau tactile switches and Kailh Silent Midnight Pro Tactile switches.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks a ton for the awesome video! Following your video step by step to create my own custom keyboard!
Just had a question, at 16:18, how did you expose the wire right where you want the connections to be made? I can't find any way on how to do it.
I stripped the wire by heating up the insulation with my soldering iron when it begins to melt, I pull it apart to expose the wire. I found this method to be faster, just don't breathe in the plastic fumes. I have another video about a 3D printed keyboard where I mention this technique. If your wire has very heat resistant insulation, you will need to strip the wires using a blade or wire cutters.
@MadModLabs Thanks for the quick reply! I tried burning the insulator myself but it just turned into a black blob of melted plastic. Could you please link me to the video where you talk about the technique? Also, what would I be looking for if I wanted to get the same wires as the ones you used?
Here is the video link with the timecode where I mentioned soldering the columns: ua-cam.com/video/iOeYkLlq9Ds/v-deo.html
The wire that I use is cheap, solid-core, 24 AWG. This is pretty close to what I use: amzn.to/3zkCKrk
You could probably use magnet wire too. This type of wire is really easy to solder because the insulation melts away easily: amzn.to/4gqyE1s
@@MadModLabs Thank you so much! I can finally finish this project!
The keyboard firmware builder needs to be updated for the RP2040 processor. The RPi Pico and clones are fast becoming a popular keyboard controller. If you use the pico w, it should be possible to mod the firmware to connect wirelessly via bluetooth now that the bluetooth libraries have been released for the RP2040 SDK. There is also a Micro Python clone of QMK as well.
KBfirmware is EOL as stated at the bottom of the page- Sadly, no more updates will come to it. It is over 7 years old and painfully out of date
Would it be possible to create some sort of small wire channel in the 3D print for the column cables? I’d bet it would help with the build and make everything easier and neater. Thanks for the video!
I used to make kb like this 3 years ago. and its great for starters. But the moment i started using qmk for my boards it worked great! I manage to use NKRO among other functions.
Hey man great video, what was the price like for the entire build?
Very interesting video! I don't think I'll ever do a keyboard like that myself, but I have a ton of respect for anyone who does 🙂
On the topic of switches, I use Gateron Oil Kings in my main boards, and Akko Jelly Blacks in my travel board.
Great resource. I think I'll start with a numpad so I don't screw up a huge design on my first go.
What do you think about PCBs and/or plates? Is there any benefit to using a support plate like you designed and a PCB under the switches? Or does the PCB replace the plate entirely?
Most keyboards have a plate and a PCB. The PCB's main purpose is to connect the switch matrix electrically. Using a plate and PCB together will help the keyboard stay rigid, even though some keyboards have a small amount of flex. It is possible to make a keyboard with no plate at all. I would want to use a thick PCB to make sure the keyboard is not flexible.
Fascinating and informative video! Thank you! If you don't mind me asking, what was the approximate cost of the materials you used? I have built two keyboards using PCB and I'm wondering if hand wiring is significantly cheaper. Thanks again!
What a great project! How about adding backlight;
This was incredibly helpful!
Thanks for watching!
@@MadModLabs i am about to make a southpaw 75% with a low profile. All thanks to this video.
@@gilgabro420 Awesome! Can't wait to see it!
Can you do a video on building a custom zmk firmware with bluetooth please? Wanting to learn how to write new firmware from scratch 😅
I use repurposed cherry browns (pre-hyperglide like 92-95yr model) and lube them. Ordering some akko jelly lavenders soon and some good quality cap from KBFfans. Probably the WOBs
omg this custom keyboard is my dream keyboard!
So simple and helpful! Thx a lot. Oh and like the layout!!
Since we are already consulting PCB-Way, could you make a video how to design a circuitboars that makes the keys hotswapable, or is that too expensive for a DIY project?
Great video by the way!^^
It wouldnt really be alot more expensive, for about $20 maybe you can get the hot swap sockets and ordering a pcb is $10 - $20 too
Thanks for this great guide! Will definitely try this
super helpful.
Thank you for watching!
Hello! This is an amazing video, I have been inspired to buil one of your keyboard. This will be my first keyboard project.
I was wondering if you could do a 4x4 or 5x5 macropad?
@@calyx0 I'm glad you will be building a keyboard. Macropads are pretty simple. I have built a few different size keyboards and macro pads. Please check them out on my Printables page. www.printables.com/@MadModLabs
For a small, portable keyboard, I would reduce the width of Tab, Caps, and Left Shift. Same for Backspace, \, Enter and Right Shift.
That alone requires a custom PCB, and we haven't even talked about switches and keycaps.
Thanks for the Video. You've just answered the one question I've had, and been looking for for the last 2 days.. Ie how does the firmware know how the switches know are wired to the controller.
Conheci agora já virei fã... show... show... show parabéns.....
What is the type of wire you used? looks like it has intermittent soldering points? (the colour change) is this right? not the same as your link? maybe im wrong. can you pls elaborate?
@@federicoroldan1441 I just used some recycled wire. It is old twisted pair wire like the wire that is inside an Ethernet or phone cable. The colored marks on the wire do not correlate with soldering points. It is just color-coded wire. I try to use recycled materials when I can to avoid creating waste.
Really cool video. Can you make a video guide on designing wireless keyboard pcb with modules, like e73 nrf52840 or something similar?
Very useful indeed 👍Thanks
I need to find a good tutorial that explains how to choose the controller board. But your tutorial is amazing!!! I am still stuck with gateron brown switches.
The biggest factor for me when choosing a controller board is the number of usable pins. I like to keep the matrix wiring simple when possible so more pins Is usually better until the size becomes a problem. Some controllers are better for for special features like wireless connections or backlighting but I usually try to keep the build simple and keep costs low. Thanks for watching!
@@MadModLabs Thanks a lot for the answer!
Great Video!
I am just getting into this topic myself and learned alot. Ill get on trying this myself and see whether I get anywhere with that!
Do you maybe have a discord for people to discuss? Id love to learn some more, i.e. how to make an self-made RGB board with that method!
Here is a link to the discord. Fair warning, it's not very active. Most of the people here are my friends from The Twitch stream. discord.gg/tYMTA2Bb
@@MadModLabs appreciate the link!
Is there any noticeable latency or anything doing this? I was always warned not to use arduino for a keyboard like this? I'm wondering if I was just misinformed.
I can't notice any latency. I'm not sure how it would compare to a top-shelf gaming keyboard. If you are unsure of using Arduino, you could build the same keyboard with a different controller. A friend of mine recently built a 3D printed keyboard and used a Raspberry Pi Pico as the controller.
bro that was awesome
I was always trying to do something like this. Are there any communities that you recommend which can help me? Also, because this is 3d printed I was wondering if I could get this machined in acrylic or other materials on PCB way.
I would say UA-cam is the best place to learn 3D modeling. There are lots of really good tutorials available for free. I am not really active in any mechanical keyboard communities but if you want to learn how to program a keyboard, the QMK discord is probably a good place to look.
@@MadModLabs for my second question, can I use the same 3d model for machining in other materials than 3d printing? Like acrylic.
@@akshatdev3596 for CNC machining, you will probably need to use the STL file to create a .STEP file first.
@@MadModLabs thank you again :)
hey where can I get that keyboard at 14 seconds?
Ill be re-watching this many times as i try to make my own lmao, hopefully i retain information
@@ninjameep8616 Good luck! Let me know if you have any questions.
This is awesome!
thank you so much for the video
How to modfiy this to have a volume knob and be wireless?
Hi i just want to ask how do you know what type of switch you are using ? I'm planning to make a keyboard with the leobog ash v3 switch but i don't know what type of hole will fit
LEBOG ash wood will fit in a Cherry MX plate. The switches themselves are very similar to switches manufactured by Otemu. Most switches will fit in a MX plate. If you plan on using a PCB make sure it is compatible with Otemu/Akko switches.
Fusion 360 is not bad bad, but there was an update not too long ago that gimped exporting and that made it less interesting for me.
There are alternatives, one of which is SolidEdge Community Edition. It has other limits on it, but it works better for me.
SolidEdge is great! Recently, I have been trying out OnShape and it looks promising. It is cloudy based, so you can run it on pretty much any computer.
Question:
When using the arduino as your controller for the custom keyboard, - does such keyboard end up having any issues with simultaneous keys pressed (imagine Ctrl+Shift+Alt+C as example)? This would literally be a showstopper for me to refuse the idea (need big combos to work in IDEs).
I tested this just now. The keyboard recognizes up to 9 simultaneous keystrokes when using the modifier keys like Ctrl+Shift+Alt. If you frequently use big key combos, writing your own firmware is the perfect opportunity to simplify them. You could assign them all on a function layer or even build a keyboard with a built-in "macropad" that could input your key combos with one keystroke.
18 by 4 can be wired for example as a 9 by 8, in that case you would only need 17 pins instead of 22.
Hey there, I've been following these steps to make a keyboard of my own for a while and I've somehow gotten it to work almost perfectly
Every key works except for one single column, which I've discovered that the moment the keyboard's plugged in, every key in it from first to last fires once until the last key, which then repeats its signal until any other key is pressed. Pressing any of keys in the one column doesn't output anything afterwards
I'm not sure if you'd be able to help with this issue as I'm using the Teensy++ 2.0 and not the Teensy 2.0 but I hope you can! Thanks
@@Flippr it sounds like that column is shorting out to ground somewhere. First I would check all the diodes and make sure they are all going the same direction. Next I would check the column wire. Make sure the insulation is not melting off anywhere that would allow the wire to contact another column or row. Also check the solder points on the teensy and make sure they are not bridged together. If that column happens to be connected to pin D6 on the teensy 2.0++ you could try moving it to another pin and editing the firmware accordingly. On the Teensy 2.0++ this pin is also used by the onboard LED. I have had unusual behavior using this pin on some teensy clones. Lastly, you could test each switch in the column individually. It's unlikely to cause the entire row to fail but it's worth checking especially if your switches have been disassembled for lubricating.
@@MadModLabs I just so happen to have it on D6 ;-;
I'll try to switch it to another pin the next time I'm able to, unless if there's a way I can easily update the code through the site as moving the wire to another pin may be difficult for me to do
How about creating a Commodore 64 keyboard (like the one you have on your background) with the correct layout for CBM (duh!) and some space leftover space to accommodate a raspberry pi to be able to use the awesome BMC64 project (Bare Metal Commodore 64). Thanks for the video!
How much infill did you use for the keyboard
20% is enough. Increasing the infill density and wall thickness will change the weight and sound of the finished product slightly. So feel free to experiment.
@@MadModLabs thanks you so much for the answer
Amazing content, love the video, keep it up!! :)
Thank you for watching!
Suggestion: please show how to make a keyboard for UMPC (Jornada, Sony UX series, etc) and handheld pocket device.
this is it this is it!
Hi!
- It is very interesting - why work on keyboard starts from very not basic and pretty complex thing?
First quetion that appear while you look at typing - what for you nee to hold palms upper than keyaboard while you use fingers? Actually it is logistics connected primitive AI task - how to simplify logistics in connection with context, as it prolongs solutions with new possibilities.
The very simple answer to this question - keaboard surface and keys must lay lower than support for wrists, in some area much lower than border of keyaboard. Kinda in pit. In this case your wrists are fixed and fingers, and only, perform job.
- Now you can type faster, brain and some muscles are relaxed and free of tasks. But what are the pluses?
Borders you receive can be used easily, with low level of mistakes for computer management, like brigthness etc changes, and it is quite natural thing as these functions and its physical realizaion are different. Borders are connection between objects.
After it you have ability to add commonly used functions like language change, layout change. You can place it on border going in pit but with something prolonging keyaboard surface to it. Thus you have mixed intermediate functionality, not that separate. It gives another plus current computers don`t have - accented simple tuning. Like changing contrast of text on screen. And so on. It can be done by software. Text, photos, browser prompt for addresses.... And a lot of other different types of interface controls, elements, you can change, copy, delete by pretty simple easy for brain direct clicking by fingers that you move shortly.
Next thing you understand - there are some outer devices. Lamp. Teapot. Car. And area outer than border is quite interesting for it. You make some pit - and you got it. But it is not magic of real conduction between separate object with jump of differences. But your design have all possibilities for it already. Switch on teapot. Press on connection "beyween pits" and use numbers or arrows for setting up temperatue or speed of boiling. Teapot can be powered by valuable power tuning, just like your keyaboard... ;-) Switch on lights in room or in house. You don`t need addiotional house management devices any more. As next thing such solution brings - ability to connect base pit to any software pit. You need to establish remote link to some device by clicking some "remote connected surface string" either line outer of bounderies.
You can do it in library, bar, train, airplane... In connection to devices around your place...
- Yo can pay by it. Ask driver of bus or airplane through specific dialog programs and devices.
By clicking several buttons. This is the magic of conduction.
- It brings speed and profit growth ,simplifying everything same type. But not simply. With tremendous growth of comfort. And opening new possibilities. Of super magic... 😏
It gives ability to make simple "going-through" communication and function activating.
- What can you do with teapot?
Well, - teapot can be located under some lamp. Near some refrigerator. So you can use arrows to access it through teapot you use very often, as compared to them. Number of devices can be pretty big. You can use direction for direct connection, or use some menu with names you open by "Show next devices" functionality. Thus it gives ability to reach any detail in any mechanism from any place... In simple comfortable way. Time, cost expenses. collision expenses of performing all of these functionalities with other users - interesting topic. Just like energy etc expenses.
But it is not end. You can put automation on these connections.
- Like adding same type activating of same or different objects by "glueing connection strings either functions". Turn on lamp on teapot and lamp in place you store broad. It looks like magic. In direct meaning. You can execute teapot and start warming up of car. Or say something to car of your neigbour and not known person blocking your one. Through your car. 😏
Hey man, Im already working on mine and here are two questions that came up:
1 - What to do when the number of columns and rows are greater than the number of pins on the board?
2 - Is it possible to use arduino pro mini instead of teeny? its kindda cheapper down here in brazil
thx man
You can use an Arduino for a smaller keyboard builds. They have less pins than the teensy. If you're building a large keyboard you probably want to get a Teensy 2.0 ++. amzn.to/3EfUFi5 The Teensy 2.0 ++ is an awesome controller with lots of pins and it is pretty easy to work with. There's also a way to do this with a Raspberry pi Pico but the firmware creation is completely different than the way demonstrated in this video.
@@MadModLabs thx alottt
I know you commented this awhile ago, but your keyboard wiring matrix doesn't need to follow the exact rows and columns you have. If you have a 48 key keyboard, for example, if you use a 4x12 matrix, that uses 16 pins. However if you consider you can create groups keys (from a wiring standpoint) into smaller or larger groups, you could create a matrix of 7x7 totalling a maximum of 49 keys (the last 'row' of this wiring would only have 6 keys, to bring back down to 48 actual keys). This arrangement would only need 14 pins.
Another example is a 5x12 keyboard - 17 pins needed for a matrix that matches the physical layout, or use an 6x10 matrix only requiring 16 pins.
The keyboard shown in the vid needs ~62 switches. If you use a 4x17 matrix, that's 21 pins. However, you can use a 7x9 matrix for 63 possible switchs using only 16 pins.
Make sense?
Anyone know what keyboard/caps set that is in the background at 1:52?
Nice content
"Have some patience with yourself."
I refuse. Respectfully.
tysm bro
when i try import the dxf into fusion 360 it comes up with an error "the selected dxf file does not contain units information
Make sure you have the units set to "millimeters" in the insert dxf menu.
I tried downloading the personal use Fusion 360 and that didn't work so I've had to resort to using FreeCAD which works SO DIFFERENTLY to Fusion360 that I basically have to skip the modelling part of this tutorial and have to hope someone has a FreeCAD tutorial of a similar project.
Right thumbing the space... what sort of travesty is this?
Right thumb gang rise up 🤣
i thought this was normal , ive been doing it all my life 😭😭
Isn’t this the norm?
you look AND sound like the mustard guy on tiktok... i cant see past it. great videos. i just can NOT SEE PAST IT. DAMNIT.
My old new Amiga 1200 will get a new keyboard
The sound is awful, but shoutout for the video in general. Is it possible to create a hotswap custom board instead of wiring and soldering?
"Oh crap, there's an emergency! I better shut this game down quick! I'll just press Alt+F..... oh."
Haha! Fn+Esc makes a pretty good alternative to Alt+F4. It just depends on what you set in the firmware. Thanks for watching!
-wanna design a keyboard?!
*I watched a video
- ... ... ... nope
*Promosm* 😍
Thank you!