I 3D Printed a Custom Keyboard... (So you don't have to)
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- How to 3d print a mechanical keyboard -3d printed custom keyboard that thocks!
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Owo
Fr
3d print keycaps
I think the issues you were having may be due to moist filament or even wrong filament type, like ABS or PETG printed on PLA settings
Poison dart frog V2?
wow hipyo im so proud of you thank you for struggling and wasting over 30 dollars of fillament great work hipyo
@Remon Pel especially when you factor the multi hundred dollar printer itself
I wish they could have a printer that just
Worked
No troubleshooting or anything,
Just one that works
@@n0raaFTW I think that would be incredibly difficult to do since there are so many factors, especially if you start messing with different type of filament. You also have to consider humidity and the bed material etc. There are things that can help like auto bed levelling and antivibration measures but it will never just work every time
@@ravioli0239 that's why I'm wishin that it exists
@@n0raaFTW makes 0 sense that that would exist. Never will either. Too many factors to control. We can't even do printing on paper with the ease and reliability you want.
I looked at this comment the same axact second he said it in the video, that was amazing 😂😂
Gotta love the life of a UA-camr. "I got this very expensive thing for free and don't know how to use it. I probably won't learn how to use it because I'm not super interested in it. "
On God
There are different ways you could have approached this, but for someone who isn't as experienced with 3D printing, you did well.
@@bwloawesome besides of course printing things correctly, to size and with good tight tolerances, to join parts if it's pla cyanocrilate will bond those parts perfectly and then going in with a layer of THIN 3d pen printing to seal the gap (as hipyo did, but beter :P).
However, there's an extra step to smooth things out if you wanna go the extra mile, which is using a wood burner or a soldering iron with a big flat tip to literally melt the seams away (can also work for layer lines). That technique is mostly used for 3d pen printing. Then of course a lot of sanding to smooth things out even more and if the plastic changes color because of the sanding (it's common) some people had luck with heating the plastic with hot air again to restore the melted look.
The fact he used Marble PLA was great because it really helps to hide a lot of the layer lines inconsistencies and issues really well, any filament with extra particulates like those will help to 'make it look like it's super bonded'.
Your z-height looked a bit too high on there, but overall, super solid work. Especially considering you're not super versed in 3D printing. The hardest part is starting and not knowing what you don't know or how to ask. One cool thing you could have done was use the 3D pen to fill in the seam and then take a soldering iron with a flat tip to melt the plastic into the seam and then sanded it smooth. That's what I do to bond stuff together when I don't want to use glue or get rid of seam lines.
Пластик тоже разный бывает. У меня принтер с белым пластиком оставляет иногда небольшие зазоры рядом со стенкой
the fumes go hard
I have printed multiple keyboard and I love them all. 3D printed plates are flexy and soft too, i have replaced some plates with printed ones in some of my other keyboards. I have even designed my own top mounted tkl to print and its one of my favorite boards.
Any plans to open source the plates? I kinda wanna try 3D printed plates lol
@@noisehero4409 I only have self-designed plate files for the BOX75 and the FK680 (and my own boards) and they are all for my preferred layout. Sometimes keyboard designers will release plate files (or just you have to ask them).
@@ZeroZeroOne__ You should make a video!
Overall, it came out great. Parts warping can usually be solved by increasing the bed temperature a bit (i usually do 60-65 deg C for PLA) and for parts that take up a large surface area on the print bed I usually raft them in the slicer (where the print is on a "raft" of material). Now the 2 parts being floppy is simply just a matter of tolerancing your design to tailor the 3d printer, since not every printer is super precise and exact and tolerances vary from printer to printer. Not to mention that plastics shrink as they cool down. The more you'll print the more you'll get familiar with everything! If ya got any questions feel free to ask.
So do you have to wait for it to cool down before taking the thing out?
@@cyrussoh1608 You can take it out as soon as it finishes, but it's harder to do so. I've never used glue on my 3D printer before, so I can't speak for everyone, but as it cools down, the print should be easier to peel from the printer bed. Most of the times it releases itself from the bed.
Thanks
Indeed, overall a good result. Floppiness could be helped by going with *super-tight* tolerances (so far as to need some sanding to fit nicely). It'd also make the seam a fair bit less visible to begin with.
I second the bed temps. I always used lower temps on my anycubic i3 mega, and had a bunch of issues. But since I’ve started using bambulab its stock settings use around 65c for the bed and like 220c or something for the nozzle. It works so much more consistently from my experience
You did a very good job for your first official print, sometimes prints just don't go as planned, and you pushed through. Good job.
yo hipyo, thank you for preventing me from buying a 3d printer. youve saved me easily thousands of dollars at this point from saying "so you dont have to"
Fr
A good 3d printer is just a few hundred
@@StoatCS2 are you trying to say ender 5 is a bad 3d printer?
at the end 3d printer is a hobby product instead of a consumer product like your ordinary printer, you'll save money and peace of mind by just printing stuff with a service *cough* pcbway *cough*
@@tandyo at the end no one asked you lol
Good job Nola. You're doing great, Nola. Keep it up.
nola ♥️
I was actually planning to print out a keyboard design, so I'm curious on how this will turn out.
And I have a budget keyboard I recently got as my 'experimental' for tinkering. Going to be lubing up switches and doing some foam treatment for the first time.
Hola Hipyo, Your filament had absorbed too much moisture and needs to be dried. The water in it is turning to steam in the hotend preventing bed and layer adhesion. Also, cyanoacrylate (regular superglue) bonds PLA really well 👍🏼
I 3d printed a 30% case for a co worker. Real excited to see what he does with it. Thanks for the fun video brother!
There is a flowchart out there that you can follow. I've been doing it so long now that troubleshooting solutions are baked into my brain, but it does exist somewhere. At first your issue was clearly that your nozzle was too far from the bed. However, the warping has to do with the part cooling down too quickly. That might have to do with not setting your extruder to the appropriate temperature. But most likely your print bed was not hot enough. You can check your filament role for the temperature ranges of both.
Also, keep in mind that filament absorbs moisture. So, when storing it. Be mindful of the fact that if you don't dry it out before using it again. You'll run into an entire new set of problems.
Wow hipyo I'm so proud of you thank you for struggling and wasting over 30 dollars of filament, great work hipyo!
I'm so proud of you Hipyo! 3d printing is hard, you did it!
So for a first FDM project it turned out good. Good Luck on your 3D Printed journey and as a keyboard youtube you should definitely 3d print more keyboard stuff
3d printer here. If that marble filament was new and out of the box and the rest had been sitting, you were probably dealing with filament that had hydrated, filament needs to be dehydrated from time to time since it absorbs moisture.
Wow Hipyo, I'm so proud of you! Thank you for struggling and wast...err...testing over 30 dollars of filament. You're a inspiration to the 3D printing community and make it look so easy.
That's pretty good, especially for someone inexperienced with 3d printing. That pen for fusing and then sanding down the joins is super common.
Bro thanks for getting me into this hobby, kind of expensive but one that fits me perfectly! Great content man keep it up!
Great job man!
I'm so happy you did this. I've been looking to 3d print my own case for a while now and was really hoping you would do this. I will be doing this exact build for my next board.
Hipyo, I'd love to see you print, build, and learn to use a dactyl manuform ❤
thats actually a really good print for your first time!
I recommend getting a powder coated/textured PEI sheet for your Ender 5 S1. Much better than the PC coated sheet included with your printer.
If your bed is not too dirty, the problem is always bed leveling. If you think it's not bed leveling, you are wrong and it's the bed leveling :) Glue sticks and the like are not required, at least not for PLA(and make it more difficult to keep the bed clean). The main problem is that usually we are told to use the "paper method". It sucks since paper easily deforms and bends and it's not always at the correct thickness to begin with.
So:
(1) Get a feeler gauge. It's way more accurate than paper. You want your nozzle to squish the filament slightly, but you don't want it to smear it, or to be so close that it will not be able to extrude properly.
(2) Make sure, when you are leveling, that the bed is *heated*. Thermal expansion will ruin your leveling if you are trying to do it when cold. Ideally your hotend will be heated too (but be careful!)
(3) Your bed may be warped no matter what you do. Changing to a glass surface should help in those cases.
(4) Not applicable for the Ender5, but I guess many people trying this will have the Ender 3 and clones. For Ender3 bedslingers, the gantry may be crooked as it is only supported on one side. The bed leveling (actually tramming) should account for this, but make sure you remember that when you are measuring.
The ender 5 seems to have a different but not entirely dissimilar problem with its bed supports. I have seen some prints that claim to help with the issue(struts). Can't comment further on that as I don't own one.
If your budget allows, get a printer with auto bed leveling(or upgrade yours, it's cheap). It won't fix the problem if you are dropping filament from orbit but, if you are reasonably close to level, it will correct the remaining issues.
It is unclear why the marble filament performed so much better. Maybe it's just "thicker" due to all the added particles and bridged the remaining gaps?
I entirely blame you, for my new unfound obsession with keyboards, and with THOCK
Don't use glue, just clean the print bed properly with 99% isopropyl alcohol and ensure there are no draughts blowing near the printer (that's usually what causes warping).
100%. If you apply gluestick at all it should just be for specific filaments that stick too well or in a very very thin layer
ikr, printing stright on glass is way more effcetive than many people claims
@@ushiocheng Textured pei is my go to but glass works fine.
Cleaning with soap and water is typically more effective as isopropanol isn't that great at dissolving oily residue being a mostly polar solvent and most of what is going to be on there is fingerprints.
Yeah, with PLA and TPU, just having a clean glass surface is often enough for proper adhesion. Looks like it could be a Z offset issue, issues with leveling or first layer height. For PETG and ABS I'll usually use hairspray, which is very easy to apply. With glue you have to be careful to not use too much, as it can make a huge mess and not work as well if you used just a thin uniform layer. Also worth noticing is that not all gluesticks are the same. Where I live, there's only one brand/model that works well for 3D printing, most others will just make a mess and not help at all with adhesion.
See the thing is if your first layer prints in the air that kind of proves that your bed is in fact NOT leveled correctly... :)
can't wait for a blender tutorial creator to reach out and do a collab video where you learn modeling so you can make your own case based on your favorite keeb.
Hipyo (3D print farm owner here) get a glass plate for the ender and a can of 3D lac. Creality even sells a plate for the ender 5. And in the footage it looks like the file might not be flat on the bed in the slicer. I suggest you download and use prusa slicer because it has a put side flat on buildplate feature to prevent this. Also every filament has its own sweetspot temperature and the print breaking up suggests your temp was bit too low.
Good job, Nola! You're doing great!
Good job Nola!
And thank you for this, Hipyo!!
Good job Nola. You're doing great Nola. Keep it up.
Custom colours with the printing!
For 3D printing I recommend using painters tape instead of glue on the plate.
This looks sick! I’m just wondering, what marble pla filament was that? I’d love to order some for myself!
Honestly this turned out pretty good, I actually did this already and my print came out awesome because I was able to print it in one piece. I have a tall delta 3d printer and was able to just barely squeeze in a 60% keyboard frame. I printed mine with a pla wood-infused filament and sanded it down and the texture and look is awesome. Your method however (splitting up the keyboard into pieces) was the one thing I wanted to avoid at all cost because yeah it kinda sucks. Overall great work and the sound profile is really great as well! (Also P.S. a wood-burner is also a great alternative to "glue/melt" printed pieces together)
Looking forward to a keyboard with 3D printed housing, but also 3D printed keycaps and dampening, which you can get the effect from using hexagon shapes to produce a fabric-like affect
It's great looking, thank you for doing it as I'm planning to do my own as well here soon and was using this video as reference.
Good job bud! You will learn some tricks along the way but that was a great start to 3D printing.
@HipyoTech I think this is a cool start buddy. What about keycaps for a next project? Definitely however you need to print a replica of Nola for sure.
I think 3D printing some artisan keycaps or would be cool, the stem tolerance seems difficult tho.
A thin, hollow structure inside the keyboard would be very interesting to amplify resonance like a drum. If you leave it open top you could put shrink wrap over it for a unique sound
Finally happy to see Hipyo use Osume keycaps! My personal favorite!
Good job Nola, you're doing a great job Nola. Keep it up.
Ok working with an ender as a full 3dprinting noob, hats off. They are very cpapble machines but theres a WHOLE bunch of what you need to do to make them work right. I'm like 90% sure it was temps. The lack of extrusion quality and TERRIBLE layer adhesion indicates you were not printing hot enough. Teaching Tech, Makers Muse, 3-d Printing Nerd ect all have great guides on how to dial in new printers.
I have learned after many crappy 3D printers that if you like 3D design and actually PRINTING things, get a Prusa. They're not the fastest or fanciest or have any super fancy brag-worth features, but what they do have is bulletproof reliability and many many many years of research and pedigree and userbase behind them. I went through several printers before I just broke down and bought a Prusa. The other printers were like what you experienced, lots of struggling, guessing why X wasn't working, stuff breaking or acting funny. The Prusa just works! Get a Prusa if you like just printing stuff. Get a cheaper printer if you like tinkering.
3d printing has quite a steep learning curve. But thats what the community is for.
yoooo the modded 3d version does sound soo good yoo
good job nola you're doing great nola keep it up
The reason that your prints were failing might be because you had a partial clog in your hotend. At 1:54, there's a lot of gaps in the extrusion and it doesn't look like enough material was being pushed out. At 3:33, you mentioned that it suddenly started working again. Sometimes partial clogs can fix themselves just by pushing more material through the hotend. However do NOT rely on this method to clear your hotend if it clogs. You'll have to learn to disassemble the hotend and clear clogs out manually or at the very least use a nylon cleaning filament.
Good job Nola! Great job Nola! You're doing great! Keep being adorable!
that cookies and cream texture makes me want to eat this keyboard
This would be interesting. Now my printer won’t collect dust
Maybe take a look at the sick68 :)
Hey Hipyo, a few things to note from the footage regarding printing: Make sure your bed is leveled correctly, if you dont have an ABL probe (auto bed leveling probe) then grab a thickness gauge (pretty cheap) and set you bed to be about .07mm from the nozzle (about the thickness of a standard sticky note). This should give you a nice first layer and is the first step towards successful printing. Next there is a technique for preventing curling on the corners called "mouse ears" and I highly suggest them for prints with sharp corners or large flat printing areas. Pusaslicer makes them really easy but you can make them in most other slicers too. Finally I suggest checking your room temperature, if the room is dramatically lower than the temp as you're printing it can exacerbate the conditions which cause print curling in the first place. My printer is an Ender 6 so its not dramatically different than yours in a number of ways and touching these things up got my printer going perfectly almost every time when I was struggling. Also clean your build plate, you shouldn't need anywhere near that much glue, too much can actually get in the way. Try using a little isopropyl to thin and evenly spread the glue rather than globbing it on across the whole bed.
I really want to see that plant collection 😮
I’d love to see you get and struggle with a resin printer for making some novelty keycaps
This could be really good on a bigger printer and tighter nosel for less print lines.......in love the sound good job hipyo
That's pretty amazing! Good job! Now, for your next print, try a Gundam...
Good job Nola!
Good job Nola!
Good job Nola!
Why not build the keyboard as two separate halves? You know what I think i'll try that, back in the day I sawed my keyboard in half for ergonomics but it was ugly and junky. I think i'm gonna try it again now that 3d printing is a thing.
Should use a solid piece of aluminum on the back screwed in corners would look clean
Dude my bet is that you need to put isopropyl alcohol on the print bed, every time you do a new print. marble filament might have had a better ability to stick than the rest of them, and because it wasn’t cleaned with isopropyl alcohol the rest of the filament separated.
Hi Hipyo i also experience the same issues as yours with my ender 3 s1 pro , your nozzle is way to high from the bed , you need to adjust your z offset after leveling (because leveling doesnt do anything with z offset), your first layer shouldn't have gaps and also the warping issues is because you have problem with layer adhesion (might also the temp too high but PLA doesnt have warping issues) , you shouldnt put any glue on your ender 5 s1 bed , because it comes with PEI Plate . in short you should clean your plate first and then change z offset (search google whats the correct z offset should look like ) i'm pretty sure it fix most of your problem
Good Job Nola!
Should try printing one with like 80-100% infill should change the sound quite a bit
Good job Nola 👍
Wow Hipyo, I'm so proud of you. Thank you for working hard* and using* over 30 dollars of filament. Great work Hipyo!
Good job, Nola. Your doing great, Nola, keep it up.
Good job Nola 😍
GOOD JOB NOLA!!!!
"budget" printers are *horrible* for beginners who aren't 3D printing enthusiasts and don't already know what they're getting into. Especially Creality. Prusa and Bambu Lab are really the way to go.
first layer sharp corners are a nightmare if you don't know what you're doing.
Good job Nola 😀
wow Hipyo I'm so proud of you thank you for struggling and wasting over 30 dollars of filament great work Hipyo. Congrats on the 3d printed keyboard. I 3d printed a case for my split keyboard, and it was a fun project. In the earlier portion of printing what are the; bed temp, nozzle temp, flow rate, print speed, and material?
"Good job Nola, keep it up Nola!" :P
3d print some cool unique Keycaps xD
good job nola! keep it up nola! also very cool keyboard! 3D printers can be so silly and finicky
Arguably you should have made a printer specific design like the manuform, but nice
Good job nola
good job nola
Nola, good job. Good job Nola.
If it printed fine by just changing the filament, your problem may have something to do with the temperature or print speed.
wow Hipyo im so proud of you thank you for struggling and wasting over 30 dollars of filament great work Hipyo
"nola don't snort the cocaine hunny" -hipyo
Hipyo maybe u should 3d print space between pcb and keyboard to make it sound better hopefully
LESS KEEBS. MORE KADELI.
wow hipyo im so proud of you thank you for struggling and wasting over 30 dollars of fillament great work hipyo
.
.
Also the kb sounds really goooood omg
wow hipyo im so proud of you thank you for struggling and wasting over 30 dollars of fillament great work hipyo
I was looking for a cheap upgrade to my cheap (free w/purchase cyberpowerpc skorpion K2) keyboard when I came across your videos. Even though the build stuff goes way over my head, you make very entertaining content, and I binged so many videos! I would love if you can make a compilation of just sound tests for ASMR videos because your builds are so lovely. Also, I am curious about what you think of the Phantom+ Elite keyboard that comes with everything pre-lubed for $79, and what mods you think it could use!
As someone who 3D prints a bit, that case did come out quite nicely. I might build my first keyboard this way because of you :)
i need to see the plant collection so bad
Good job, Nola
My face when you stream Hipyo's new song :o kadelimusic.com/burn
Fr fr
Ive never had luck with matte filaments
Looks like mainly a shitload of extrusion issues, likely from a partially clogged nozzle, which managed to resolve itself after so many filament swaps
You somehow printed square frame? Now it's very important to share it with the world and make a video with clickbait header.