Agreed! I like seeing your process. Of course you would be opening yourself up to everyone telling you what you should have tried, which could be annoying for you. I'll keep watching either way.
Make the video even if it fails! Your well thought through failures are better than many others' successes. We enjoy watching you work and seeing your thought processes.
"I don't know if there will be a video" Next month I made a dishwasher motor powered, hopperfed resawing fileserver that does my taxes. Plans will be available shortly.
04:17 - Anyone with kids has an endless supply of those yogurt/applesauce/fruit-blend caps! If it's half as dangerous as your giant blower last year, it'll be a joy to watch.
Even if the hopper fed shooter doesn't work, I for one would still enjoy a video about the attempt, the build, and the problems with it. You wouldn't have to put it on your main channel either.
As much as I love the big bandsaw and other tool builds, I love the zany inventions even more. Can't wait to see a catapult video whether it's a success or a failure
I’d really like to see a video on that launcher gizmo, even if the project turns out to be a failure. I love seeing your clever design and especially your solutions for any problems you encounter.
Matthias, you can reuse bandsaw blades in a bow saw for pruning. We did this many times at work for cutting Scotch Bright scrubbing pads to 1/4 the size. It also works on cutting other things as well. Nice idea using plastic caps for your catapult. There's never enough things we can do to reuse things. Far too much stuff goes in the trash or gets scrapped.
Taxes? TAXES!! Damn I knew there was something else I should have been doing besides watching you make bandsaws and cut wood. On the other hand, since I've spent most of my time watching you make bandsaws and cut wood, I haven't made enough money to worry about taxes. So . . . MAKE ANOTHER BANDSAW!!
Matthias: One of the videos I watched suggested that bandsaw blade 'drift' was related to how a flat belt tracks on a crowned pulley. If you adjust the blade so the teeth are at the top of the crown, the blade doesn't wander nearly as much. Hard to do with a resaw blade, but you might investigate this with narrower blades. I'm sure there are lots of band saw users who would like to know if this is the trick they've been looking for.
I cut the bandsaw blade to length. Than i grind a 20° angle and hard solder it. It is for mine metal band saw. And it is stronger than the original weld. Now i buying the blades on roll and that is way cheaper. By the way I love your video's!!
I do this, too. You need to use "hard silver solder," preferably with 50% silver content. This melts just about when the steel starts to glow red, and it's much stronger than electrical/plumbing lead solder. J.P. Since the weld area reaches red hot, this rehardens the blade. Afterwards, it is beneficial to temper it with your torch. Sand a shiny spot and play the torch over the weld area. The instant the spot starts to darken straw/blue, remove the flame. And it's done. I know your blades work fine without doing this. But if you use them long enough to where they eventually break, guess where that will happen. Unless you tempered it accidentally while grinding down the joint, the blade will eventually have a fatigue failure... not on your braze joint, but the steel right next to it! J.P. Question for you. I do this with wood blades, and it's ridiculously cheap. But I have checked prices of bimetal blade coils stock. And it seems to be the same cost or in many cases MORE expensive than buying individual blades? Coils of bimetal blade are several hundreds to thousands $$$s?
I use Rothenberger Rolet 602 messing hardsoldeer/brass hard solder Its a low melt brass solder. I also have made a fixture of an angle iron too keep the blade straight. It's safes me about a 400,- euro. The roll i buy are about a 100 meters for 150,- euro. I don't now the brand i buy it by a local shop it comes probably out of China. And yes i temper the blades, the blade's that brake are the pre welded blade's. Now i am soldering the blades they don't brake anymore.
Cool. In the US, I can't find 100 FOOT coils of bimetal blade for less than $400. Even the exact same size of blades that are used on portabands. Buying individual portaband premade blades is cheaper!!! Crazy, right? I know you can braze steel with some brass alloys, too. I'm sorry that I said "you need hard silver solder." I should not have been so exclusive of other methods. In the US "silver solder" without qualification means lead and tin solder with 2% silver, which won't do the job, here. I meant to differentiate that, but it came out wrong. Thanks for that info! I bet anything the pre-welded blades that break at the weld, it's because they don't temper them afterward. In the US, it is taught everywhere on the free internet that you just "anneal" the blade after welding it. By heating it red hot, then letting it cool "slowly" like in 20 seconds of pulsing the button. And because it's now "annealed," and annealed metal is dead soft according to wikipedia, you of course don't need to temper it after. Haha. This would be true if the weld area was truly annealed (but if it were truly annealed, the blade would brake in minutes, anyway, lol.) I bet if you take this brand of blade and temper it yourself, then they won't break, anymore! It's people looking stuff up on YT to learn to do their jobs! It's weird how dumb we are, here. Some PERSONALITY gets popular, then people instantly copy his info and videos as if it's the truth of god. And popularity and view count trumps correct information. We Americans are stupid. We consider truth flexible, and popularity is what counts. More popular = more true.
It’s surreal seeing Matthias with grey and thinning hair in HD after watching him for nearly a decade. I’m getting old too. I guess we all are. Hope we all have something to show for it at the end.
Hola Mathias, ruegote responder: compras esas hojas de sierra ¿de una sola pieza? (No escucho el golpe de choque que produce la soldadura contra la madera) Poseo una de fabricación rusa y tengo que encargarlas a la medida. Esto es mi pasatiempo. Gracias, Él Sublime sea con usted.
Can you perhaps illustrate in a video (as done before) the difference between resaw blades and normal bandsaw blades ? -what gives them the advantage of resawing along the grain direction ? Thanks again for always great vids, cheers, Brian
Well two factors...wide blades, for stability (straighter cuts), also providing strength for high tension, and low tooth count, to clear the sawdust from such a wide cut without filling the gullet.
Hahahahaha! Matthias you make me laugh like crazy. If ever I saw a finger-chopper...works pretty good though. One day we'll see you fit a chainsaw blade onto a bandsaw AND make it work.
Please make the video even if it doesn't work out. When you see only successful videos on youtube it's discouraging when you're met with setbacks and failure. To see folks like you (objectively a better woodworker than I am) fail or miss the mark helps to reinforce that it happens to everyone and it should be a learning experience.
Re: "Irregular" teeth: I've started watching another channel that mostly deals with computer hardware, and during the last year he'd bought a 3D printer and had the brilliant idea of making custom fan blades for his PC fans. He then opened up an email address for his fans to send in blade designs, and it turns out that the quieter ones have different blade gaps. Makes me wonder if this should be more common.
I'm sorry to say that when I built my bandsaw, I did not put the guard around the blade by the switch and very nearly lost my thumb to a 4 TPI resaw blade. Through a great deal of luck, a fantastic surgeon and a lot of rehab, I have almost full motion back 2 years later. Matthias designs excellent bandsaws, but they have no respect for idiots like me who do not put the guards in place.
Ouch. I read somewhere's that as metal cutting bandsaw speeds have increased significantly for cutting aluminum (they're using 3500 fpm, now, just like the big woodsaws), manufacturers and companies have to provide more warnings and training due to how fast that cuts flesh and bone. Metal workers are used to much slower speeds on their vertical saws. I think the old Doalls only go up to around 1000.
Please make a video about reducing the noice from tablesaws and bandsaws. I would like to know how to sound isolate them. Noice is a big problem in every workshop. Thanks
Guten tag Mathias: do you have Suggestion how to make (cheap) crown on flat aluminum bandsaw wheels? Originally there was a thin cork with crown glued on, but all fell off. I don’t want to take the wheels off either. What would you do?
My favorite channel, Matthias, please make more videos building wooden machines. Your work is inspiring and entrepreneurial, I made 6 machines watching your projects. I couldn't buy your files because I don't have a credit card. Congratulations. From Brazil.
This blade is the same exact thickness as the typical 1/4" bandsaw blade. He flashes the specs on screen at some point. So as long as the saw doesn't run rougher (bigger vibrations = higher peaks on the tension = faster fatigue), it should last as long as any other blade before fatigue failure. Timberwolf is one of the few suppliers who offer a 3/4" blade at 0.025" thick. Most 3/4" blades are 0.032" or 0.042" thick. I know this because I have already done the research. I have a Timberwolf 3/4" blade, 3 TPI, 0.025" thick. When I put it on my 14" Rikon, it causes the cut direction to shift severely clockwise, just like this. Too much tension for my saw, for my taste! I stick with 1/2" 3 TPI.
Completely predictable that the saw cuts more clockwise, now. Whenever you increase the blade tension, it bends the saw frame more, and the wheels get canted a bit. In this case, you increased the height, which makes the frame bend more. The top axle has more leverage to bend the frame. The kicker here, is that when the frame bends more, the wheels point more towards each other. And the blade tracks more forwards. So you adjust the top wheel tracking knob to keep the blade centered on the top wheel. But the bottom wheel is fixed, so the blade is running closer to the front on the bottom wheel. Because of the curvature of the wheels this twists the blade ever so slightly from top to bottom. Therefore, trying to get the fence perfectly square and thinking it's "done" is no longer possible. The direction the blade will cut is going to vary slightly according to the thickness of the cut! You added adjustment screws on your newest designs for just this issue. When checking alignment of the blade, it's helpful to use a magnet and a straight piece of steel. E.g. a short section of bandsaw blade is perfect for this. But be sure to spin the wheel and check the blade at several locations. Due to welds rarely being perfect, checking one spot can give you a very false reading. With the magnet trick you just spin the wheel in the regular direction of cutting, so your magnet pointer stays flat against the table insert as you spin it!
@@matthiaswandel Well, I have a 14" Rikon. And I have a 3/4" Timberwolf blade. And when I put it on the saw, the cut direction deviates clockwise pretty severly, just like yours did. The blade also shifts to the right about 1/8" in the insert, due to the increase in tension. Because of this extra bending of the frame, the blade runs way forward on the bottom wheel. Unless you adjust the bottom wheel to compensate. Because of the curvature of the wheels, running the blade too far out of symmetry it does put a slight twist on the blade. You can see it if you use a straight edge. But due to kerf width and if you run your guides tight, anyhow, it's pretty much negligible. But if you're anal enough, you will notice these things. I'm a big fan of you Matthias. Sorry to upset you. You know it all, and everyone else only learns from you. Of course you are the smartest man in the world and I'm just the asshole trying to teach michael jordan how to tie his shoes! Edit: as opposed to a 1/2" blade. When I change to a 1/4" blade, the cut direction shifts slightly CCW, and the blade will track farther back on the bottom wheel. Because of these nuances, I just keep it tuned for 1/2" blade, and this is part of the reason I bought a second small bansdsaw last year. I notice the exact same changes when changing blade thickness/size on the small saw. Thicker blade and higher tension moves the cut direction CW, and moves the blade forward on the bottom wheel. I keep the small saw tuned to 1/4" 0.025" blade. I am upvoting your reply, cuz you're the best, and I'm just glad you read my post! I'm used to being insulted by John Heisz for pointing out some issues with his ideas. Getting insulted by Matthias is so much better.
I don't have a table saw, and I have historically made extensive use of a bandsaw sled. It has to be well aligned to work, so I notice these things. Also I notice when the blade shifts over to the right due to higher tension and chews out a bigger slot in my sled. It took years to notice and put it all together, cuz I'm not that smart. But now I know, I am careful with my refurbished sled to keep it tight like a virgin.
I sure hope he doesn't have an accident, just to get some use out of a $30.00 mistake/freebie blade. If you can't throw that away, better to buy some hard silver solder yah. Or build a new bandsaw to fit that blade!
@@mildyproductive9726 In my estimation an accident is quite a bit more likely with all the guards off and the upper wheel not secured than if he goofs the brazing. Either silicon bronze or good high temp silver solder, like that used for carbide tooling, are very easy to use. Plenty of good UA-cam tutorials on the subject. The hardest part is getting the blade lap ground right and straight. All well within his skill set I'm sure.
@@SuperAWaC I was thinking of making ome. Have you made one? Do you find ac is ok or you need a diode? What voltage secondary, 3-4v? How many watts, ~500-700 ok? Lower power for annealimg? Tnx.
@@SuperAWaC I've tried welding them. Unless you have a dedicated blade welder then good luck. The tools you need to braze a blade are a lot more general purpose. Personally I don't have the space in my shop to even store a bandsaw blade welder. Let alone the interest in investing the money to purchase one. For the few times a year I'd use it. The tools to braze a blade I already have though.
@@SuperAWaC that's great. It runs on single phase power too? I have never seen a band saw getting scrapped. There are not many machine tools in my neck of the woods. No one is throwing anything out either.
Post the video even if it fails. Love all your explanations
Agreed! I like seeing your process. Of course you would be opening yourself up to everyone telling you what you should have tried, which could be annoying for you. I'll keep watching either way.
Make the video even if it fails! Your well thought through failures are better than many others' successes. We enjoy watching you work and seeing your thought processes.
"I don't know if there will be a video"
Next month
I made a dishwasher motor powered, hopperfed resawing fileserver that does my taxes. Plans will be available shortly.
LMAO!
Bandsaw blade salesman: Hey look who just ordered a blade, let's send him the wrong size and see what he comes up with!
Thousands of dollars of free advertising!
04:17 - Anyone with kids has an endless supply of those yogurt/applesauce/fruit-blend caps! If it's half as dangerous as your giant blower last year, it'll be a joy to watch.
Even if the hopper fed shooter doesn't work, I for one would still enjoy a video about the attempt, the build, and the problems with it. You wouldn't have to put it on your main channel either.
As much as I love the big bandsaw and other tool builds, I love the zany inventions even more. Can't wait to see a catapult video whether it's a success or a failure
really really hopeful for a video! I love "Wandel makes Weapons" videos! When the squirrel uprising begins, we need to be prepared!
It's already started at my house. The bird's seeds don't last 2 hours. There will be a device to discourage them, but not on a Matthias level.
I’d really like to see a video on that launcher gizmo, even if the project turns out to be a failure. I love seeing your clever design and especially your solutions for any problems you encounter.
Matthias, you can reuse bandsaw blades in a bow saw for pruning. We did this many times at work for cutting Scotch Bright scrubbing pads to 1/4 the size. It also works on cutting other things as well.
Nice idea using plastic caps for your catapult. There's never enough things we can do to reuse things. Far too much stuff goes in the trash or gets scrapped.
That bandsaw blade cuts beautifully! It was the wrong size, but I loved how it sounded when cutting :-)
Taxes? TAXES!! Damn I knew there was something else I should have been doing besides watching you make bandsaws and cut wood. On the other hand, since I've spent most of my time watching you make bandsaws and cut wood, I haven't made enough money to worry about taxes. So . . . MAKE ANOTHER BANDSAW!!
For us computer inclined, a video about rebuilding your web server and file server would be interesting.
Thanks soooo very much Matthias, for the test and and presentation of the blade. I appreciate your experience. Cheers Jerry
I learn a lot from your videos please keep them coming!
Cuts like butter. Really nice blade.
High volume manufacturing hopper feeders sometimes are really interesting. They are mesmerizing to watch. That and the shooter you make will be fun.
That blade cuts through wood like butter , wow
Pretty impressive, Matthias!!! Fantastic blade! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Matthias: One of the videos I watched suggested that bandsaw blade 'drift' was related to how a flat belt tracks on a crowned pulley. If you adjust the blade so the teeth are at the top of the crown, the blade doesn't wander nearly as much. Hard to do with a resaw blade, but you might investigate this with narrower blades. I'm sure there are lots of band saw users who would like to know if this is the trick they've been looking for.
that's a great performing blade, glad you were able to make use of it.
Something so satisfying about sawing a log into usable boards lol
When I first saw the "hopperfed" thing, I thought, "He's going to build a TINY bandsaw!"
I cut the bandsaw blade to length. Than i grind a 20° angle and hard solder it.
It is for mine metal band saw. And it is stronger than the original weld. Now i buying the blades on roll and that is way cheaper.
By the way I love your video's!!
What kind of solder? Silver or?
I do this, too. You need to use "hard silver solder," preferably with 50% silver content. This melts just about when the steel starts to glow red, and it's much stronger than electrical/plumbing lead solder.
J.P. Since the weld area reaches red hot, this rehardens the blade. Afterwards, it is beneficial to temper it with your torch. Sand a shiny spot and play the torch over the weld area. The instant the spot starts to darken straw/blue, remove the flame. And it's done. I know your blades work fine without doing this. But if you use them long enough to where they eventually break, guess where that will happen. Unless you tempered it accidentally while grinding down the joint, the blade will eventually have a fatigue failure... not on your braze joint, but the steel right next to it!
J.P. Question for you. I do this with wood blades, and it's ridiculously cheap. But I have checked prices of bimetal blade coils stock. And it seems to be the same cost or in many cases MORE expensive than buying individual blades? Coils of bimetal blade are several hundreds to thousands $$$s?
I use Rothenberger Rolet 602 messing hardsoldeer/brass hard solder
Its a low melt brass solder. I also have made a fixture of an angle iron too keep the blade straight. It's safes me about a 400,- euro. The roll i buy are about a 100 meters for 150,- euro. I don't now the brand i buy it by a local shop it comes probably out of China. And yes i temper the blades, the blade's that brake are the pre welded blade's. Now i am soldering the blades they don't brake anymore.
Cool. In the US, I can't find 100 FOOT coils of bimetal blade for less than $400. Even the exact same size of blades that are used on portabands. Buying individual portaband premade blades is cheaper!!! Crazy, right?
I know you can braze steel with some brass alloys, too. I'm sorry that I said "you need hard silver solder." I should not have been so exclusive of other methods. In the US "silver solder" without qualification means lead and tin solder with 2% silver, which won't do the job, here. I meant to differentiate that, but it came out wrong. Thanks for that info!
I bet anything the pre-welded blades that break at the weld, it's because they don't temper them afterward. In the US, it is taught everywhere on the free internet that you just "anneal" the blade after welding it. By heating it red hot, then letting it cool "slowly" like in 20 seconds of pulsing the button. And because it's now "annealed," and annealed metal is dead soft according to wikipedia, you of course don't need to temper it after. Haha. This would be true if the weld area was truly annealed (but if it were truly annealed, the blade would brake in minutes, anyway, lol.) I bet if you take this brand of blade and temper it yourself, then they won't break, anymore! It's people looking stuff up on YT to learn to do their jobs!
It's weird how dumb we are, here. Some PERSONALITY gets popular, then people instantly copy his info and videos as if it's the truth of god. And popularity and view count trumps correct information. We Americans are stupid. We consider truth flexible, and popularity is what counts. More popular = more true.
It’s surreal seeing Matthias with grey and thinning hair in HD after watching him for nearly a decade. I’m getting old too. I guess we all are. Hope we all have something to show for it at the end.
Wow, even with the compression on the video that cut looks really great
I shiver when I see those plastic tops....after three kids I bet I've seen a million of them over the years!
Always enjoy your videos, possibly because you seem to enjoy them, too. Thanks!
LONG LIVE THE GEEKS! Rock on man!
Thanks for sharing the tips!
Thank you for the knowledge. I am from Indonesia
Glad you were spared from having to build a whole new band saw to fit that blade!
Hola Mathias, ruegote responder: compras esas hojas de sierra ¿de una sola pieza? (No escucho el golpe de choque que produce la soldadura contra la madera) Poseo una de fabricación rusa y tengo que encargarlas a la medida. Esto es mi pasatiempo. Gracias, Él Sublime sea con usted.
Even if you fail, it will be a great video. I think the fails teach more than the successes.
For orienting the caps, a vibratory bowl would be a good solution. Might be interesting to see if one could be made out of wood.
Can you perhaps illustrate in a video (as done before) the difference between resaw blades and normal bandsaw blades ? -what gives them the advantage of resawing along the grain direction ? Thanks again for always great vids, cheers, Brian
Well two factors...wide blades, for stability (straighter cuts), also providing strength for high tension, and low tooth count, to clear the sawdust from such a wide cut without filling the gullet.
Hahahahaha! Matthias you make me laugh like crazy. If ever I saw a finger-chopper...works pretty good though. One day we'll see you fit a chainsaw blade onto a bandsaw AND make it work.
Please make the video even if it doesn't work out. When you see only successful videos on youtube it's discouraging when you're met with setbacks and failure. To see folks like you (objectively a better woodworker than I am) fail or miss the mark helps to reinforce that it happens to everyone and it should be a learning experience.
Re: "Irregular" teeth:
I've started watching another channel that mostly deals with computer hardware, and during the last year he'd bought a 3D printer and had the brilliant idea of making custom fan blades for his PC fans. He then opened up an email address for his fans to send in blade designs, and it turns out that the quieter ones have different blade gaps.
Makes me wonder if this should be more common.
That is cool you can cut up firewood sized pieces into workable lumber. For making bird houses it would be great!!
If at first (or second or third or ...), you don’t succeed, you do eventually. Thanks for the video!
Post a video even if you fail. I'm sure lots of us would still love to see it.
I took a look at your site and I'm wondering if you've ever considered using css grid for layout
As a suggestion, get in touch with Martin from Wintergatan, I think he could use some of your help to complete his marble machine
I did find some comments from Matthias below the wintergatan videos. So I am quite sure they are in touch in some way.
I'm sorry to say that when I built my bandsaw, I did not put the guard around the blade by the switch and very nearly lost my thumb to a 4 TPI resaw blade. Through a great deal of luck, a fantastic surgeon and a lot of rehab, I have almost full motion back 2 years later. Matthias designs excellent bandsaws, but they have no respect for idiots like me who do not put the guards in place.
Ouch. I read somewhere's that as metal cutting bandsaw speeds have increased significantly for cutting aluminum (they're using 3500 fpm, now, just like the big woodsaws), manufacturers and companies have to provide more warnings and training due to how fast that cuts flesh and bone. Metal workers are used to much slower speeds on their vertical saws. I think the old Doalls only go up to around 1000.
Are the big wheels in the band saw convex? Is that all you need to keep the band stable?
I am sure there isn't a large demand for this but I would love to see an overview of your web server upgrades.
Looks like a lot of fun!
Please make a video about reducing the noice from tablesaws and bandsaws. I would like to know how to sound isolate them. Noice is a big problem in every workshop. Thanks
I love a good contraption.
I hope your new toy works! Would love to see a video on it
Show the video even if the launcher doesn’t work.
How about design build + plans for a drum sander?
Guten tag Mathias: do you have Suggestion how to make (cheap) crown on flat aluminum bandsaw wheels? Originally there was a thin cork with crown glued on, but all fell off. I don’t want to take the wheels off either. What would you do?
electrical tape, overlapped the right way to form a crown
@@matthiaswandel got it! Appreciate your Antwort
My favorite channel, Matthias, please make more videos building wooden machines. Your work is inspiring and entrepreneurial, I made 6 machines watching your projects. I couldn't buy your files because I don't have a credit card. Congratulations. From Brazil.
Interesting. So you have your own server for your website? So you post videos to YT and let them deal with that end and you deal with the articles?
firewood to furniture. Great. thanks again.
it is possible to shorten blades on your own. Grinder and silver solder. much like the splice in the curtain rod
I do that. A dremel and silver solder works too.
Will the tighter radius cause the blade to fail at some point in the future?
This blade is the same exact thickness as the typical 1/4" bandsaw blade. He flashes the specs on screen at some point. So as long as the saw doesn't run rougher (bigger vibrations = higher peaks on the tension = faster fatigue), it should last as long as any other blade before fatigue failure. Timberwolf is one of the few suppliers who offer a 3/4" blade at 0.025" thick. Most 3/4" blades are 0.032" or 0.042" thick.
I know this because I have already done the research. I have a Timberwolf 3/4" blade, 3 TPI, 0.025" thick. When I put it on my 14" Rikon, it causes the cut direction to shift severely clockwise, just like this. Too much tension for my saw, for my taste! I stick with 1/2" 3 TPI.
wait, will there be a matthias wandel/joel sprague collaboration for something to shoot those things? i wouldnt be able to stand it.
any use you can find for those awful pouch caps is a good one. SO MANY POUCH CAPS!
Brave to stand in front of it uncovered
Wondering if they used my chinese measuring tape, with inches scale 1.5 times longer than it should be...
How long until the Wandel Modular Bandsaw™ goes on sale?
Eres un máquina! Haciendo máquinas.
Could u maybe experiment with a wooden grassmower? Like wooden blades and wooden frame?
Wish you had a video on your file server and computer parts!
Completely predictable that the saw cuts more clockwise, now. Whenever you increase the blade tension, it bends the saw frame more, and the wheels get canted a bit. In this case, you increased the height, which makes the frame bend more. The top axle has more leverage to bend the frame.
The kicker here, is that when the frame bends more, the wheels point more towards each other. And the blade tracks more forwards. So you adjust the top wheel tracking knob to keep the blade centered on the top wheel. But the bottom wheel is fixed, so the blade is running closer to the front on the bottom wheel. Because of the curvature of the wheels this twists the blade ever so slightly from top to bottom.
Therefore, trying to get the fence perfectly square and thinking it's "done" is no longer possible. The direction the blade will cut is going to vary slightly according to the thickness of the cut! You added adjustment screws on your newest designs for just this issue.
When checking alignment of the blade, it's helpful to use a magnet and a straight piece of steel. E.g. a short section of bandsaw blade is perfect for this. But be sure to spin the wheel and check the blade at several locations. Due to welds rarely being perfect, checking one spot can give you a very false reading. With the magnet trick you just spin the wheel in the regular direction of cutting, so your magnet pointer stays flat against the table insert as you spin it!
you don’t have a bandsaw
@@matthiaswandel Well, I have a 14" Rikon. And I have a 3/4" Timberwolf blade. And when I put it on the saw, the cut direction deviates clockwise pretty severly, just like yours did. The blade also shifts to the right about 1/8" in the insert, due to the increase in tension.
Because of this extra bending of the frame, the blade runs way forward on the bottom wheel. Unless you adjust the bottom wheel to compensate. Because of the curvature of the wheels, running the blade too far out of symmetry it does put a slight twist on the blade. You can see it if you use a straight edge. But due to kerf width and if you run your guides tight, anyhow, it's pretty much negligible. But if you're anal enough, you will notice these things.
I'm a big fan of you Matthias. Sorry to upset you. You know it all, and everyone else only learns from you. Of course you are the smartest man in the world and I'm just the asshole trying to teach michael jordan how to tie his shoes!
Edit: as opposed to a 1/2" blade. When I change to a 1/4" blade, the cut direction shifts slightly CCW, and the blade will track farther back on the bottom wheel. Because of these nuances, I just keep it tuned for 1/2" blade, and this is part of the reason I bought a second small bansdsaw last year. I notice the exact same changes when changing blade thickness/size on the small saw. Thicker blade and higher tension moves the cut direction CW, and moves the blade forward on the bottom wheel. I keep the small saw tuned to 1/4" 0.025" blade.
I am upvoting your reply, cuz you're the best, and I'm just glad you read my post! I'm used to being insulted by John Heisz for pointing out some issues with his ideas. Getting insulted by Matthias is so much better.
I don't have a table saw, and I have historically made extensive use of a bandsaw sled. It has to be well aligned to work, so I notice these things. Also I notice when the blade shifts over to the right due to higher tension and chews out a bigger slot in my sled. It took years to notice and put it all together, cuz I'm not that smart. But now I know, I am careful with my refurbished sled to keep it tight like a virgin.
Seems interesting that thing
Where is the wooden transformer from the preview picture?
Careful, kids! Hoppering fruit pouch caps can be dangerous. ;)
Like 3 good jobs brother
Now that you have this blade, the only solution is to build another bandsaw in the correct size to use the blade
Or buy/build a blade cutter/welder :)
@@VAXHeadroom But he'd have to figure out how to make one completely out of wood, first.
Next: A Bandsaw with multiple blades for even faster resawing.
Love this
Crap, you reminded me that I haven't done my taxes yet.
Whats the difference between sawing and resawing?
If that hopper fed cap shooter fails, the hivemind will surely be of mild use or at least provide ideas.
Tig weld it?
Those (what hopper will shoot) look like caps from baby food pouches :P
How is everyone doing?
fine thank you
We don't care if that thing doesn't work, we want to see it's video anyway!
Finally off Apache 2.2 then?
Says 2.4.18 now...
You should get a masters in wood sowing
Im sure you can competently cut and braze that blade to proper length and get those guards back in place. :)
I sure hope he doesn't have an accident, just to get some use out of a $30.00 mistake/freebie blade. If you can't throw that away, better to buy some hard silver solder yah. Or build a new bandsaw to fit that blade!
@@mildyproductive9726 In my estimation an accident is quite a bit more likely with all the guards off and the upper wheel not secured than if he goofs the brazing. Either silicon bronze or good high temp silver solder, like that used for carbide tooling, are very easy to use. Plenty of good UA-cam tutorials on the subject. The hardest part is getting the blade lap ground right and straight. All well within his skill set I'm sure.
When will you build a woodmill saw out of wood? :)
Pretty sure "reasaw" is a typo?
👍👍👍
So that's how you do it now. Fix the bandsaw to the blade length 👀
Muito bom Mathias, Brasil te assistindo
Nice!!
Matthias needs to learn how to braze his own blades. It's not hard. Then he can just buy 100 foot rolls of blade and make any size he wants.
Or a simple blade welder that does all the hard work for you.
@@SuperAWaC I was thinking of making ome. Have you made one? Do you find ac is ok or you need a diode? What voltage secondary, 3-4v? How many watts, ~500-700 ok? Lower power for annealimg? Tnx.
@@SuperAWaC I've tried welding them. Unless you have a dedicated blade welder then good luck. The tools you need to braze a blade are a lot more general purpose. Personally I don't have the space in my shop to even store a bandsaw blade welder. Let alone the interest in investing the money to purchase one. For the few times a year I'd use it. The tools to braze a blade I already have though.
@@1pcfred I just scavenged one built in to an old Do-All saw that was getting scrapped. It doesn't take up much space at all.
@@SuperAWaC that's great. It runs on single phase power too? I have never seen a band saw getting scrapped. There are not many machine tools in my neck of the woods. No one is throwing anything out either.
👍
Now, build another bandsaw based on this blade.
I believe fail vids make the same ad revenue as win vids.
wow, i wouldn't touch this bandsaw with how you loosely stacked the tension piece on top of it. i am such a coward :D
I wanna see how this guy does taxes- no, not personal info, just process
Who has two thumbs and doesn't use a push stick? You do... for now.
Astuces un génie
you need more DIW woodworking videos like you did back in the day. some of your crazy router tools are too out of touch with the average woodworker.