As people have commented. When I did the multi channel xlr, the individual channel wires would normally be longer. When shooting the video I cut them a little shorted the keep the entire wire snake in the frame of the camera. The process is as shown in the video correct just remove more outer jacket of the multi channel snake if you are doing a 8 channel snake.
Excellent tutorial the only thing I do different is tin the shield, the whole way down to the base where it comes out of the outer jacket so you cannot possibly have a wire break and short. It also makes the shield stronger to strain relief it.
Memories of my youth. You forgot the zeroeth step which is to make sure your fanout leads are long enough to reach where they have to go! Made THAT mistake one time. Thankfully easy to remedy.
Thanks for this great series. I am doing some XLR wallplates so this has been very helpful. It's been a long time since I have had to do much soldering.
Thank you for this video, I normally purchase my cables from Worlds Best Cables on Amazon, but they have few of the Mogami XLR cables I prefer in stock, the 2549 wire with the Nuetrik Gold connectors. Parts Express has the connectors for a few dollars each, and I have roughly 100 foot of the Mogami wire/cable from a previous purchase of a few extended cables that I never used. I have not soldered in years, many years, and bought the NovelLife soldering iron, looks like a cool little unit, and the Kesel solder, along with a few other bits you showed. I'm $300 deep into all of it, but with what I want to do, this bit of kit should pay for itself in short order. Again, thank you for this video.
I always tie pin 1 to ground (by splitting the drain/shield in half) curious to see your grounding video. I also use 2 small zipties on the end of the multi-pair jacket then add adhesive lined shrink tube over that. Keeps the jacket from working it's way down over time (probably not a huge factor in a studio, but in the field it helps a lot)
you shouldn't bond the shield to the ground of the connector for audio. You should keep all of the grounds from interacting until they reach their final destination. That way if there's something else weird on a panel, or the rack rails themselves, then you won't run into problems with that. You want to have a single grounding point.
I prefer to not use shrink. If the wiring is clean and tight I don't believe it has any benefit. It also makes it harder to inspect and see bad solder joints or broken wires. I do use shrink on individual wires in dense connectors like db-25, elco or DL.
Unfortunately right now I don't have the time to make this specific video. Combo jacks don't come in a cable mount to my knowledge, so it would be a little funky. I do see them sold online. If you make one it would be the same as wiring the female XLR but you would add a small jumper between tip of the 1/4 inch combo and pin 2 of the xlr combo, and ring of the 1/4 to pin 3. Hope this helps.
where can we get that teflon tubing from? what diameter should i look for? the link for the the shrink is an assortment.. do you know the 2x diameters i should get for the xlr snake? amazing video tutorial ny the way! cheers
In Truth it depends. Like I said I rarely do it for reasons explained below. I sometimes do it in the hopes of improving RF rejection in microphone cables. If that were the application I would tie pin 1 to the case on both ends.
Why would a company solder the ground to the shell? Does doing this cause any issues? Would cutting the connection between the ground and the shield cause any issues?
I've been too busy to complete my grounding video, I hope to soon. Wiring the xlr shell to the ground/shield is a reasonable approach to wiring, but I don't do it for two reasons. If I am using the cable to connect a line level piece of gear to a patch panel which has the ground/ shield lifted I won't want the ground/ shield to be connected at BOTH ends. Tying the metal shell to the ground/shield will bypass this and possibly cause ground loops. Not connecting the shield to the case usually has little downside as the metal xlr shell will usually grounded by the metal / metal contact of the device or microphone you are plugging into. If you look closely at quality xlr connectors, there will be a small area that is NOT painted to enable this ground contact to the device contact.
Unless you are familiar with SMT, removing and replacing components can be difficult. An experienced tech can locate a defective op amp or component but removing and replacing it can be time consuming. You may find an online video to help. Most Behringer equipment requires complete module or PCB replacement. Only because it's cheaper to do than spend time diagnosing and component level servicing. But obtaining modules and parts from Behringer is next to impossible. One thing you need to determine is when a XLR input fails, check to see of the line input of that channel still functions. I've had several behringer mixers, when a channel fails I can still make use the that channel's line input. Sending Behringer equipment to an authorized service tech may not be worth your while or budget. I am a tech and don't waste efforts with products that are made and priced to be disposable.
I don't quite understand why the standard XLR cable has a copper shield that you do not remove, and the Mogami snake you did remove it. I understand the drain wire is the ground. But I don't understand why the design of that mogami cable is so that there is 4 total wires..... Could you explain?
In a balanced connector you need 3 connections. Plus Minus and Shield or ground. The first cable I need to connect all three. In the later smaller mogami cable there is Plus, Minus, Shield, AND a drain wire. The drain wire in not insulated so it is in contact with the shield copper inside the cable. Electrically the copper shield and the drain wire are connected and the same. I remove the shield on the mogami and use only the drain wire simply for neatness. I find neat connections fail less and are easier to repair if need be. There was no drain wire on the first microphone cable I used so I had to use the copper shield. As well the video showed how to wire either type of cable so it would help the viewer in either case.
Thank you for the great videos. When you were soldering the 8 wire audio snake at the end of the video is there a reason that the ends of the snake were relatively short? I've often seen audio snakes with more length where the cables split off in order to have more length to work with.
I think the reason the cables wound up being so short is because I was trying to keep all my work in the camera frame so they came out shorter than you would normally make them. 12 to 24 in would probably be the normal amount of exposed individual channels you would have depending on the need
That's a good question normally I would. Though if there wasn't a good strain relief on the connector or a boot I might use the whole shield to make it stronger
These are for the back of a patch bay, i opted for rean connectors for the TRS plugs to save abit of coin. These wont seen constant plugging/unplugging so i may be good with the drain! Will test it out! Btw thanks for you vids, made 5 dsub connectors yesterday!
I have noticed that some snake cables have different colors cables for each individual mic cable. What are general rules for hot and cold? Thanks for the video!
In general the clear or black wire is low or cold. The more vibrant color is usually hot (often red) Some cables follow the resistor color code. Black=0, Brown=1, Red=2, Orange=3, Yellow=4, Green=5, blue=6, violet=7, Grey=8, white=9
Where can I find the pro XLR snake wire? I am trying to wire a small studio but I can only find the snakes or the cables but not the actual bulk wire. Thanks.
I have a question, a bit mysterious, I have a rode ntg3 and it has a bit of hiss. I have two cables, one soldered the three pins as in the video and the other cable only two, pin 1 and 3. and the mic makes a little less hiss. why will it be? for what is this? thank you
I can only assume the mic is running unbalanced and the noise is half, but the level of the audio is also half. So even though you hear less noise the signal to noise is not improved.
The first single pair cable didn't have a drain wire just the shield. If it had a drain wire I would have used it. I find putting shrink over a twisted shield cumbersome and not as neat usually. Others will disagree. So the choice is yours.
@@biasedaudio Yes I realize the first one was a shield. just curious why the need to "insulate" the drain but not the shield. So, from your reply I take it it's really just a choice. No real "technical" benefit ? I only ask because I have seen it done both ways but found it curious that you chose the way you did. Thanks much! great vids.
So, I’ve noticed some multi-core have an additional Drain wire running through the multi-core. If I’m making line level looms to connect equipment within a rack unit, what do I do with this common drain wire???
Often I see that extra drain in foil shield multi pair. I usually do not use it, but if you are using a multichannel connector like a Dsub or Elco you could connect it to the metal cover. But I don't think I ever have.
People have differing opinions on this issue. I don't because the XLR Shell is often connected to ground by the chassis of the device that it is connected to anyway. Sometimes If i plug into a wall panel or a device with a ground lift I don't want the shield ground connected to prevent a ground loop. If Pin 1 were soldered to the shell that would bypass the ground lift switch in many devices.
Thank you for that great video! I really appreciate that! I just ordered my Gotham GAC 4/1 wires and I’ll be getting them in the next couple of days. In the meantime I noticed an extra tab on the back of where the three connector/tubs are. Do I use some of the shielding wire to attach it to that forth tab, or do I not solder anything to it? I’m only asking because I noticed that you did not. On some of the connectors that were pre-wired, I noticed that some of the shielding wire was not only welded to the grounding connector/tub, but was also welded to the tab. Again, if I don’t need to connect it then I won’t. Let me know what you can please. Again thank you for your help.
For microphone use you can tie Pin 1 to that ground tab. I often don't for reasons I have stated in other Reponses. Interesting enough Gotham (Neumann USA) used to make cable that had a separate wire to carry the ground the Shield went to the Tab and the ground went to Pin 1. In theory it was great, but in practice I saw little difference.
Yes assuming it is a balanced signal, wire hot and ground (shield) to the TS connector and all three to the XLR and the trs. Assuming none of the devices has a input or output transformer
@@biasedaudio I have ordered both ! Do you like the one you mentioned better than the 2552 since it has that extra layer of stuff (it looks like white nylon and some paper I think …
Thanks for video. I have a question, i heard cardas audio or mundorf tin for soldering. Is it really make different for noise and sound quality for recording?
I've worked in dozens of professional recording studios over the past few decades and none of them have ever used these two types of solder to my knowledge. Most have used common Kester brand.
Unfortunately I have no idea what the wiring should be for that cable. There are good RJ11 videos on youtube. My experience uses a phone patch device. I'll bet if you search the internet you can find the wiring.
The extra tab can be used to connect ground to the metal shell of the connector. I usually do not use it and will explain further in my "grounding" video.
Are you referring to the outdated use of XLR connections used on Shure speaker columns? EAW used a similar connector but could not be confused for an XLR. If you insist on using XLR for speaker lines, XLR are underrated for such use, follow the wiring arrangement of the speaker cabinet's XLR. Or upgrade to SPKON connectors.
What part # Mogami cable did you use? What temp do you solder at? Where did you find the nylon tubing to cover the drain wire? Please revise your parts list to cover all tools and parts used in your videos so we can find the right items. Thanks, Jon
The Mogami cable is 2932, 8 pair Mogami 2552 single channel . My temp was about 650 F, Teflon tubing is hard to find , I spec oversize to make it easier to put on cable, this is 20 Gauge. Expensive. Alpha TFT-200-20 www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/alpha-wire/TFT20020-NA005/3844137
Shielding can work if connected to ground at one end , on a balanced line level signal. I'll go into more detail when I add my grounding episode hopefully soon
Hmmm. Is it shielded audio cable? Usually a 3 conductor isn't shielded and not suitable for low level audio if so. Also sometimes there is a clear spacer that doesn't actually contain a copper core, this is usually digital audio cable
Since balanced lines work the way they do... although it's sometimes referred to as hot and cold, in reality they are in and out of phase. There is certainly no 'common' in a balanced line.
As true as that may be that doesn't stop professional audio companies from using that exact terminology look at the back of a UREI LA-3a . So like it or not it is a common (excuse the pun) usage in pro audio.
@@biasedaudio WOW... I have never heard of UREI despite working in pro audio for 47 years. The LA-3a was designed when I was at primary school and when I looked at the back panel I had no idea how to connect it up, in part because of the COM/+- designators which are just plain wrong. Apparently it's just a limiter with soft knee. The first limiters I used were feed-forward limiters (at the BBC) rather than feed-back limiters since that reduced the breathing sound of feed-back limiters on fast attacks. Looking at the circuit of the LA-3a I cannot see where they come up with the COM/+- designators.
@@biasedaudio BTW the reason I found your video is I was looking for a video to send to folk who don't know how to solder XLR connectors so they could learn. You missed out heat shrink but then although I was always taught to use head shrink (or Hellerman sleeves) I rarely bother myself now. But worth a mention.
Thank you again!!! When i cut them in the vise it kinda smushed the drain wire and when it’s smushed the Teflon tube won’t go on so I think I need to cut more flush
@biasedaudio Really looking forward to that. I have a hard time differentiating the different concepts of ground/shield/drain between the electronics world and the mains electric world. The terminology throws me off.
I did verify not in the US. Even the dictionaries list to pronunciation. Without the L first, and with the L "British" Second.You say tomato I say tomato.
As people have commented. When I did the multi channel xlr, the individual channel wires would normally be longer. When shooting the video I cut them a little shorted the keep the entire wire snake in the frame of the camera. The process is as shown in the video correct just remove more outer jacket of the multi channel snake if you are doing a 8 channel snake.
That was super helpful and I’ve been doing audio for over 20 years, it’s great to have a refresher vid.
Excellent tutorial video, the 2932 looks quite challenging to assemble.
Excellent tutorial the only thing I do different is tin the shield, the whole way down to the base where it comes out of the outer jacket so you cannot possibly have a wire break and short. It also makes the shield stronger to strain relief it.
Roger great to see your name! How you are well. Yup that makes sense. For all those seeing this post Roger knows his stuff.
Memories of my youth. You forgot the zeroeth step which is to make sure your fanout leads are long enough to reach where they have to go! Made THAT mistake one time. Thankfully easy to remedy.
Good point!
2:33 ok my friend, that, is a neat and great trick. Excellent video all over, that is a great take-away. Thanks.
Thank you!
I have the Dymo 4200 labeler as well. I have the printable heat-shrink for it. It is slick and pro.
Great instructional series! Wish these videos existing when I was learning the ropes!
Coming from the TRS video, that vice is good, man! don't give in to pressure! \m/
Thanks for this great series. I am doing some XLR wallplates so this has been very helpful. It's been a long time since I have had to do much soldering.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this video, I normally purchase my cables from Worlds Best Cables on Amazon, but they have few of the Mogami XLR cables I prefer in stock, the 2549 wire with the Nuetrik Gold connectors. Parts Express has the connectors for a few dollars each, and I have roughly 100 foot of the Mogami wire/cable from a previous purchase of a few extended cables that I never used. I have not soldered in years, many years, and bought the NovelLife soldering iron, looks like a cool little unit, and the Kesel solder, along with a few other bits you showed. I'm $300 deep into all of it, but with what I want to do, this bit of kit should pay for itself in short order. Again, thank you for this video.
Super professional job and education. Thanks from far far away 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Nice tutorial it helps a lot how to solder the proper way
Many thanks, your videos have been very helpful
I always tie pin 1 to ground (by splitting the drain/shield in half) curious to see your grounding video. I also use 2 small zipties on the end of the multi-pair jacket then add adhesive lined shrink tube over that. Keeps the jacket from working it's way down over time (probably not a huge factor in a studio, but in the field it helps a lot)
you shouldn't bond the shield to the ground of the connector for audio. You should keep all of the grounds from interacting until they reach their final destination. That way if there's something else weird on a panel, or the rack rails themselves, then you won't run into problems with that. You want to have a single grounding point.
thank you, you show me how it is done properly. One thing, should I put Heating shrink tubing for each 3 wire once soldered? I got some from HF.
I prefer to not use shrink. If the wiring is clean and tight I don't believe it has any benefit. It also makes it harder to inspect and see bad solder joints or broken wires. I do use shrink on individual wires in dense connectors like db-25, elco or DL.
Truly great job
Thank You!
Is it possible to make or convert a female xlr cable or adapter to a combo jack? If possible could you show a video of doing such?
Unfortunately right now I don't have the time to make this specific video. Combo jacks don't come in a cable mount to my knowledge, so it would be a little funky. I do see them sold online. If you make one it would be the same as wiring the female XLR but you would add a small jumper between tip of the 1/4 inch combo and pin 2 of the xlr combo, and ring of the 1/4 to pin 3. Hope this helps.
To my British English speaking ears your accent sounds like John McEnroe so I guess you may hail from the same state? Great video by the way 😊
Ah we all sound alike :)
Incredible ❤
Thanks for this video sir!
Skills !! I like the trimming after tinning!
Thank you!
where can we get that teflon tubing from? what diameter should i look for? the link for the the shrink is an assortment.. do you know the 2x diameters i should get for the xlr snake? amazing video tutorial ny the way! cheers
Try redco for Teflon, I suggest 20 gauge. Offhand I don't recall the diameter for the snake
@@biasedaudio Thanks!
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. For heat shrinking, is that a domestic hair drier you are using? Cheers, Pete, from Bonnie Scotland.
outstanding work!
In the electrician book they are called ungrounded ,grounding, & grounded.
In being not.
Ing meaning common
Ed meaning after
If one end of the xlr connection has a wire from pin 1 to the casing, does the other end also needs a ground?
In Truth it depends. Like I said I rarely do it for reasons explained below. I sometimes do it in the hopes of improving RF rejection in microphone cables. If that were the application I would tie pin 1 to the case on both ends.
Hi, Does it matter if a couple of strands break off from the red or white ?? Does it affect the quality?
Depends on the wire. Generally no. Wont affect the audio quality, but it could be more prone to breakage.
Why would a company solder the ground to the shell? Does doing this cause any issues? Would cutting the connection between the ground and the shield cause any issues?
I've been too busy to complete my grounding video, I hope to soon. Wiring the xlr shell to the ground/shield is a reasonable approach to wiring, but I don't do it for two reasons. If I am using the cable to connect a line level piece of gear to a patch panel which has the ground/ shield lifted I won't want the ground/ shield to be connected at BOTH ends. Tying the metal shell to the ground/shield will bypass this and possibly cause ground loops. Not connecting the shield to the case usually has little downside as the metal xlr shell will usually grounded by the metal / metal contact of the device or microphone you are plugging into. If you look closely at quality xlr connectors, there will be a small area that is NOT painted to enable this ground contact to the device contact.
Great stuff! Do you have a video showing how to trouble shoot an XLR input on a mixer. I have two dead channels on my Behringer EuroPower PmX 2000.
Unless you are familiar with SMT, removing and replacing components can be difficult. An experienced tech can locate a defective op amp or component but removing and replacing it can be time consuming. You may find an online video to help. Most Behringer equipment requires complete module or PCB replacement. Only because it's cheaper to do than spend time diagnosing and component level servicing. But obtaining modules and parts from Behringer is next to impossible. One thing you need to determine is when a XLR input fails, check to see of the line input of that channel still functions. I've had several behringer mixers, when a channel fails I can still make use the that channel's line input. Sending Behringer equipment to an authorized service tech may not be worth your while or budget. I am a tech and don't waste efforts with products that are made and priced to be disposable.
I don't quite understand why the standard XLR cable has a copper shield that you do not remove, and the Mogami snake you did remove it. I understand the drain wire is the ground. But I don't understand why the design of that mogami cable is so that there is 4 total wires..... Could you explain?
In a balanced connector you need 3 connections. Plus Minus and Shield or ground. The first cable I need to connect all three. In the later smaller mogami cable there is Plus, Minus, Shield, AND a drain wire. The drain wire in not insulated so it is in contact with the shield copper inside the cable. Electrically the copper shield and the drain wire are connected and the same. I remove the shield on the mogami and use only the drain wire simply for neatness. I find neat connections fail less and are easier to repair if need be. There was no drain wire on the first microphone cable I used so I had to use the copper shield. As well the video showed how to wire either type of cable so it would help the viewer in either case.
Thank you for the great videos. When you were soldering the 8 wire audio snake at the end of the video is there a reason that the ends of the snake were relatively short? I've often seen audio snakes with more length where the cables split off in order to have more length to work with.
I think the reason the cables wound up being so short is because I was trying to keep all my work in the camera frame so they came out shorter than you would normally make them. 12 to 24 in would probably be the normal amount of exposed individual channels you would have depending on the need
For the 8 channel snake it would be same idea for a TRS connector as well? Snip the copper shielding and use the drain wire? Thanks
That's a good question normally I would.
That's a good question normally I would.
That's a good question normally I would. Though if there wasn't a good strain relief on the connector or a boot I might use the whole shield to make it stronger
These are for the back of a patch bay, i opted for rean connectors for the TRS plugs to save abit of coin. These wont seen constant plugging/unplugging so i may be good with the drain! Will test it out! Btw thanks for you vids, made 5 dsub connectors yesterday!
I have noticed that some snake cables have different colors cables for each individual mic cable. What are general rules for hot and cold?
Thanks for the video!
In general the clear or black wire is low or cold. The more vibrant color is usually hot (often red) Some cables follow the resistor color code. Black=0, Brown=1, Red=2, Orange=3, Yellow=4, Green=5, blue=6, violet=7, Grey=8, white=9
Is it bad that I wrapped the copper shield around the ground wire before soldering? Will it make a big difference?
Nope, that is ok.
Thanks for the video! what size is the Teflon tubing?
I like to run the gauge of the Teflon slightly larger than the wire so I believe that's 20 gauge
Where can I find the pro XLR snake wire? I am trying to wire a small studio but I can only find the snakes or the cables but not the actual bulk wire. Thanks.
Redco.com
I have a question, a bit mysterious, I have a rode ntg3 and it has a bit of hiss. I have two cables, one soldered the three pins as in the video and the other cable only two, pin 1 and 3. and the mic makes a little less hiss. why will it be? for what is this? thank you
I can only assume the mic is running unbalanced and the noise is half, but the level of the audio is also half. So even though you hear less noise the signal to noise is not improved.
Why do you add the tubing /heatshrink over the drain wire but on the first connector you just twisted the shield and left it un-insulated ? Thanks!
The first single pair cable didn't have a drain wire just the shield. If it had a drain wire I would have used it. I find putting shrink over a twisted shield cumbersome and not as neat usually. Others will disagree. So the choice is yours.
@@biasedaudio Yes I realize the first one was a shield. just curious why the need to "insulate" the drain but not the shield. So, from your reply I take it it's really just a choice. No real "technical" benefit ? I only ask because I have seen it done both ways but found it curious that you chose the way you did. Thanks much! great vids.
good video
Thanks
Where do you get the clear capillary tubing you put over the drain wire?
You can Google PTFE tubing, here is one source I trust. www.redco.com/PTFE-Tubing-Insulation/
I have a SM7B I need to solder. Issue is the colors are clear, gray and black. Not sure what numbers they need to be soldered too.
Don't know, but if you google SM7B schematic it should show the connections.
So, I’ve noticed some multi-core have an additional Drain wire running through the multi-core. If I’m making line level looms to connect equipment within a rack unit, what do I do with this common drain wire???
Often I see that extra drain in foil shield multi pair. I usually do not use it, but if you are using a multichannel connector like a Dsub or Elco you could connect it to the metal cover. But I don't think I ever have.
@@biasedaudio amazing. Thank you for the response. Finally I can ignore the additional drain wire without feeling I’m missing something!
great video : ) why don't you solder pin 1 to the chasie to ground it?
People have differing opinions on this issue. I don't because the XLR Shell is often connected to ground by the chassis of the device that it is connected to anyway. Sometimes If i plug into a wall panel or a device with a ground lift I don't want the shield ground connected to prevent a ground loop. If Pin 1 were soldered to the shell that would bypass the ground lift switch in many devices.
Thank you for that great video! I really appreciate that! I just ordered my Gotham GAC 4/1 wires and I’ll be getting them in the next couple of days. In the meantime I noticed an extra tab on the back of where the three connector/tubs are. Do I use some of the shielding wire to attach it to that forth tab, or do I not solder anything to it? I’m only asking because I noticed that you did not. On some of the connectors that were pre-wired, I noticed that some of the shielding wire was not only welded to the grounding connector/tub, but was also welded to the tab. Again, if I don’t need to connect it then I won’t. Let me know what you can please. Again thank you for your help.
For microphone use you can tie Pin 1 to that ground tab. I often don't for reasons I have stated in other Reponses. Interesting enough Gotham (Neumann USA) used to make cable that had a separate wire to carry the ground the Shield went to the Tab and the ground went to Pin 1. In theory it was great, but in practice I saw little difference.
@@biasedaudio thanks for the input and will just stick to soldering them the way you taught. It’s easier anyway.
(QUESTION) is it possible to wire in a Y connection 1/4" mono & 1/4" TRS TO XLR
Yes assuming it is a balanced signal, wire hot and ground (shield) to the TS connector and all three to the XLR and the trs. Assuming none of the devices has a input or output transformer
are you sure its not mogami 2552? the one you mention in the comments looks like it has another layer of white insulation... thank you
You might be correct
@@biasedaudio I have ordered both ! Do you like the one you mentioned better than the 2552 since it has that extra layer of stuff (it looks like white nylon and some paper I think …
I have a 3 pin mini xlr connector with an optional housing ground pin. What is that for?
@biasedaudio hey man love your videos. I was wondering what size is the Teflon tubing you use on that Mogami snake cable.
20 gauge
Thanks for video. I have a question, i heard cardas audio or mundorf tin for soldering. Is it really make different for noise and sound quality for recording?
I've worked in dozens of professional recording studios over the past few decades and none of them have ever used these two types of solder to my knowledge. Most have used common Kester brand.
@biasedaudio copy that, kester thanks for info. Back to my curiosity, is it really affecting noise and sound quality sir?
@@muhammadfebriansyah1647 In my personal opinion there is no benefit. I'm sure others will disagree.
@@biasedaudio thank you sir😁🙏
Can you help me te Creat RJ11 to XLR Male ? It was use for radio station receive call and output to mixer.
Unfortunately I have no idea what the wiring should be for that cable. There are good RJ11 videos on youtube. My experience uses a phone patch device. I'll bet if you search the internet you can find the wiring.
What type of soldering wire would you recommend for making xlr cables?
check my how to solder video, I discuss solder in that one. But buy a name brand which ever type you choose.
Die video! What's the fourth connector for? Thanks!
The extra tab can be used to connect ground to the metal shell of the connector. I usually do not use it and will explain further in my "grounding" video.
how to connect regular speaker cable to 3pin xlr? because usually speaker cable has plus and minius only. not ground.
Are you referring to the outdated use of XLR connections used on Shure speaker columns? EAW used a similar connector but could not be confused for an XLR. If you insist on using XLR for speaker lines, XLR are underrated for such use, follow the wiring arrangement of the speaker cabinet's XLR. Or upgrade to SPKON connectors.
What part # Mogami cable did you use? What temp do you solder at? Where did you find the nylon tubing to cover the drain wire? Please revise your parts list to cover all tools and parts used in your videos so we can find the right items. Thanks, Jon
The Mogami cable is 2932, 8 pair Mogami 2552 single channel . My temp was about 650 F, Teflon tubing is hard to find , I spec oversize to make it easier to put on cable, this is 20 Gauge. Expensive. Alpha TFT-200-20 www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/alpha-wire/TFT20020-NA005/3844137
I bough this exact link and it seems too small. are you sure this is the right size ? I’ve got .032 (.81MM ID).
seems like .036 or .04 would work better… but I just want to check.
What solder do you recommend for projects like this?
I discuss the different soldering option in my basic soldering video.
Will shielding work without connecting it to ground? Why do you leave it disconected?
Shielding can work if connected to ground at one end , on a balanced line level signal. I'll go into more detail when I add my grounding episode hopefully soon
@@biasedaudio Thanks for answer!
Where i this promised video on grounding - interested in why you only grounded one of the pairs?
Adam got distracted with some family issues, finishing up a video on Dsub connectors then I hope to have grounding video in early Jan
@@biasedaudio A grounding video sound awesome!
Great video! What do you do if you have a black wire as well as a red and clear wire? Thanks
Hmmm. Is it shielded audio cable? Usually a 3 conductor isn't shielded and not suitable for low level audio if so. Also sometimes there is a clear spacer that doesn't actually contain a copper core, this is usually digital audio cable
What type of solder are you using and the diameter? Thanks!
I believe it is Kester "44" .031 inches
Use 63/37. It's a lot better than 60/40.
So if I put the ground and drain together that’s not good?
Its fine, I find using just the drain a little neater
Since balanced lines work the way they do... although it's sometimes referred to as hot and cold, in reality they are in and out of phase. There is certainly no 'common' in a balanced line.
As true as that may be that doesn't stop professional audio companies from using that exact terminology look at the back of a UREI LA-3a . So like it or not it is a common (excuse the pun) usage in pro audio.
@@biasedaudio WOW... I have never heard of UREI despite working in pro audio for 47 years. The LA-3a was designed when I was at primary school and when I looked at the back panel I had no idea how to connect it up, in part because of the COM/+- designators which are just plain wrong. Apparently it's just a limiter with soft knee. The first limiters I used were feed-forward limiters (at the BBC) rather than feed-back limiters since that reduced the breathing sound of feed-back limiters on fast attacks. Looking at the circuit of the LA-3a I cannot see where they come up with the COM/+- designators.
@@biasedaudio BTW the reason I found your video is I was looking for a video to send to folk who don't know how to solder XLR connectors so they could learn. You missed out heat shrink but then although I was always taught to use head shrink (or Hellerman sleeves) I rarely bother myself now. But worth a mention.
what wire cutters are you using? thank you
amzn.to/3FQoPbz
Thank you again!!! When i cut them in the vise it kinda smushed the drain wire and when it’s smushed the Teflon tube won’t go on so I think I need to cut more flush
Best off the Best
Thanks brother
No problem
@13:50 you say you'd do a grounding video. Did that ever happen?
I was about to to post a story regarding the delay. I'm finishing up balanced and unbalanced circuits, which is a prerequisite for the grounding
@biasedaudio
Really looking forward to that. I have a hard time differentiating the different concepts of ground/shield/drain between the electronics world and the mains electric world. The terminology throws me off.
GOOd
How is anyone gonna use a snake with 2” leads?
🙏🙏
I forgot the little plastic shield 😩
Darn!
1:14
The best tip from a professional. Use high quality heatshrink. Ensure you have the casing on first and pronounce the word solder not soder
I did verify not in the US. Even the dictionaries list to pronunciation. Without the L first, and with the L "British" Second.You say tomato I say tomato.
Need those Audio Grade Silver Solder?
Why do you yanks say hot and cold? Isn’t it positive and negative lol
I believe I use both terms.
thanks , what temperature used the tool
It depends on what type of solder, and how good your iron is. I discuss it in my how to solder video.