No, it will NOT inevitably leave scratches behind. At least not on my Audi RS3's hard paint. It's all a question of sensitivity and proper technique. For example, I'm using good old classic Optimum ONR with dilution between 1: 14 and 1: 16 spraying it on my paint and also a certain amount on a fluffy 40x40cm polish towel and after waiting for 30 seconds I just clean it carefully with almost ZERO pressure, changing the towel side when it shows dirt. For my compact 5 cylinder rocket I need 2 or 3 (max.) towels. Each section followed directly by a soft drying towel. Easy. No scratches so far after 12 months.
Just a note to anyone watching that's new to detailing, this is Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax not to be confused with their original formula Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine which is blue not green. You can Google the differences. Another great to the point video VPUK 👍
I get way less damage from rinseless than soap + water. It's a night and day difference, which is why I threw away my soap. With the original formula ONR, any residual polymers left behind are easily removed with Paint Prep. Not 100%, but ONR wash & wax leaves a more robust protection behind. Ech2o is a really nice product though. Just about everything I've used from CarPro (and Optimum for that matter) has been excellent.
Echo is my favorite detailing product. Use it once every 1-2 weeks with super plush towels as a gentle waterless wash rather than full washes. Have UK 3.0 on my car. Find it is not necessary to do full washes that often anymore because the car doesn't get that dirty except for the spring (pollen) and winter (road salt). I do not notice any change in hydrophobics. And swirling is minimal because hardly any buffing is required. I find applying something like reload or even elixir is more prone to lead to swirls because of how much buffing is required.
HeavyProfessor - Totally agree! In any walk of life you will find stand out products and for us Ech2O is one of those products! Similar to you we use Ech2O to wash our ceramic coated vehicles with great results and minimal defects! You will find the Hydrophobics very similar to UK 3.0 as they both utilise the same SiO2 just in slightly different formats for each dedicated products requirements. Detailers top tip - CarPro products (which we love) tend to be dust magnets especially with pollen! After using Ech2O try finishing it off with Kamikaze Collection OverCoat 3.1 diluting it 1:10 as a detailing spray! It removes any Ech2O residues and leaves awesome gloss! This will change hydrophobics slightly (not less just different) but you won’t be disappointed! Thanks for watching and make sure you check out the rest of the channel. If you’ve not subscribed on Instagram or UA-cam please do! Thanks 🙏🏽👍🏽🚗
Very nice informative video! Thank you! The demonstration validates my decision last week to buy a liter of ECH2O. The bonnet did look clean in the beginning, but the after-wash showed the distinct difference between the clean and the dirty. Can you do a video(s) for CarPro Reload and Elixir, two other Car Pro products that I also bought last week? Thanks again!
Dean Bush - Thank you for your kind comments! Ech2o is awesome! The gloss and cleaning power is just unreal! One of our favourite/go-to detailing products! We have recently released a video showcasing ReLoad - jump onto the channel and check it out as well as our other content! A future video in the pipeline is the comparison between Reload and a secret “detailers blend” detailing spray we use instead of EliXir. Please make sure you subscribe if you’ve not already done so, and thanks again! 👍🏽🙏🏽🚗
In about a month's time I will have my car detailed and coated with CarPro Cquartz Professional. A professional detailer will be doing the job. You mentioned that the CarPro Ech2o could mask the performance of the original coating. Why would CarPro have a product that could compromise the performance of another of its products? In my case, CQPRO and Ech2o. I always do rinseless washes because my car is mostly undercover and at worse, may have some road grime, dust and some water marks. I don't use hand mitts but I do use quality microfibre towels, always wiping with the clean part of the towel. I do a pre-wash with a pressure washer to remove and soften any dirt. I've used this method on my 2018 RS Megane and I found it quite quick with minimal swirl marks. I have a Scangrip pen that I use every now and again to check. I think I will continue using FEYNLAB PURE RINSELESS. It leaves nothing behind and is probably one of the best rinseless washes out there. I also only use DI water in the bucket when I do rinseless washes.
AMGPower - You’ve hit the nail on the head of one of the subjects we mention in a few of our videos ... that of ‘layering’. Whatever protection product is the last product you use is what will provide the protection characteristics! You have to remember that not everyone will use Ech2o on a ceramic coated vehicle and Ech2o is a waterless/rinseless wash in its own right - it is not a coating specific wash and is designed to wash and protect in one go. But as mentioned above, and in a few of our videos if it’s used on any existing protective coating it will leave behind its own layer of protection. You are doing the right thing - and what we advise others who have a ceramic coating - that if you want to maintain the protective characteristics of the protective coating you apply then use a waterless/rinseless product which leaves nothing behind. You may find it interesting to watch our “The truth about ceramic coats’ video as well ... just make sure you have some time 👍🏽 Thanks for watching ... and if you’ve not already subscribed please make sure you do. Thanks 👍🏽🙏🏽
There will be no scratches if use right technique and enough of pre-soaking. Also using the right wash media and the right pressure plays role.. also the paint itself. It all depends.
Thanks for the nice demonstration. I am a bit concerned on the “layering” you mentioned. My car has some water spots, will both of these products trap the water spots and make them harder to remove?
lukewatson7 - Thank you for your kind words. Much appreciated. One of the most underrated and un-spoken truths in detailing is that of layering. To answer your question - yes! They will coat the water spots and make them harder to remove! However, as is the case with most waterless/rinseless products the layer left behind will be fairly minimal and will only last a few weeks. Therefore with the correct water-spot removal product the waters-pots shouldn’t be too hard to remove as the protective layer should be removed fairly easily. Although, we would recommend removing the water spots first. It will therefore require less scrubbing and therefore damage your clearcoat less. Thanks for watching, please check out the rest of the channel, please subscribe on Instagram and UA-cam! 👍🏽🙏🏽🚗
Jonathan - Firstly thanks for watching! Great question - 300gsm+ will be fine! Long pile cloths are kinder to surfaces and have longer threads to retain dirt however they are more likely to retain dirt if not rinsed thoroughly between each wipe! Shorter pile cloths will clog a lot quicker but generally rinse out easier! When doing a rinseless/waterless wash (like most things in detailing) is mainly about using common sense! If your vehicle is dirty then opt to use long pile cloths! If it’s not that dirty then short pile is the way to go! For info our preference is short pile - hope this helps! If you’ve not already done so check out the rest of the channel & subscribe 👍🏽🙏🏽🚗
But if we pre rinse car by pressure washer and pre soaking car by rinseless via pump spray first and then using bucket method do you think will be safe ?
MAXIMILAN2QAT - The more pre-wash steps you take prior to any contact wash whether that’s waterless, rinseless or standard will make the contact stage ‘safer’ - it’s all about using the right products, steps and ultimately some common sense! “Any contact with paint is bad contact” - and ultimately at some stage you will introduce defects to painted surfaces! It’s all about minimising this as much as possible! Hard truth unfortunately - thanks for watching! If you’ve not subscribed on Instagram and UA-cam please make sure you do! Don’t forget to check out the rest of the channel! Thanks 👍🏽🙏🏽
Khrystian Aravena - Thank You for your kind words! That’s an easy answer - CarPro Ech2O all the way! It’s cleans so well and leaves behind gloss that is just unbelievable which lasts a few weeks before your next easy wash! Thanks for watching and subscribing. Hope you find our other videos useful too 👍🏽🙏🏽
@@VProjectUKDetailing iam planning to get the carpro ech20, car would be 10 years old, brown Honda civic, should I used any other product before or after use, thanks
Naveen Shindhe - Before use just make sure any excessive dirt, bugs, traffic film etc are rinsed off. If your vehicle is not that dirty you can go straight into CarPro Ech2o! Dilute Ech2o between 1-10 or 1-15. We generally use 1-15. After use top up the results with CarPro EliXir! We are pretty sure you’ll be more than happy with the results! Thanks for watching and if you’ve not subscribed on UA-cam & Instagram please make sure you do! Thanks 👍🏽🙏🏽
bodstrup - Thank you for watching & your kind words. In our earlier videos we used a lot of ‘hands’ but responding to feedback we have reduced this in our newer content. If you’ve not already done so please check out the rest of the channel & subscribe! Thanks 👍🏽🙏🏽🚗
Jim Jumbo - In our opinion the best waterless/rinseless wash. Easy to use, economical, very good surfactants that actually clean and leaves behind a nice layer of SiO2 for some outstanding gloss and Hydrophobics without smearing. Works great on all surfaces. The only thing to consider - and something we mention in several of our videos - is ‘layering’. As this will leave behind its own layer of protection it will ‘cover’ whatever it is applied to. If you have any form of protection which you want to maintain and not ‘cover’ then this may not be suitable! Thanks for watching and if you’ve not subscribed please do! Thanks 🙏🏽👍🏽
drtassos - Firstly we would say that Ech2o is one of our go to Rinseless/Waterless washes. The reason for this is that it has great cleaning power, great lubrication, is great for uses in all types of weather conditions, and leaves behind a layer of modified SiO2 that provides gloss which needs to be seen to be believed. So to answer your question - as a professional grade product yes even at those high dilutions it will still mask your LSP to some degree, but we would suggest that it will not mask it much due to the high dilutions. The main element of your question is more around the fact you are trying to establish what waterless/rinseless product you can use which will clean but not mask your LSP? The answer to that question is Feynlab Pure Rinseless. It has immense cleaning power but is not as user friendly as Ech2o. It is also a pure cleaning product so will not leave anything behind whatsoever! As a warning though … it is so concentrated that it easily removes waxes/sealants - and in the case of your LSP it will easily “kill” the hydrophobics. This is explained in our “ceramic” video so if you’ve not seen it watch it. It explains a lot of things that will just be too much to type. Unfortunately we have not produced videos for a few months but we will soon be releasing new videos and one video will showcase “Feynlab Pure Rinseless”, and another video will showcase “Kamikaze Collection OverCoat vs CarPro ReLoad”. Also - this is just for info - there is no need to use both OverCoat & Cosmic Spritz! They both serve the same purpose and you are just wasting product/money! Obviously it’s totally your choice to use anything you want so this is just to help you! Out of the two we would opt to use just OverCoat as your LSP. Thanks for watching and if you’ve not checked out the rest of the channel please make sure you do. As mentioned new videos should start to be released again soon. If you’ve not subscribed on Instagram and/or UA-cam please make sure you do! Thanks 👍🏽🙏🏽🚗
@@VProjectUKDetailing Thanks for replying, just have subscribed. The other two pure rinseless that i know are Meguiars D114 and McKees N914. Have you any experience with them? (I own D114 but haven't tried it yet)
drtassos - Thanks for the subscription! Helps grow the channel 🤗. D114 is good, but Feynlab is by far stronger so really depends on which you prefer! Feynlab will be explained in more detail in a future video on the channel. We’ll be honest and say we have no experience with the McKees! 👍🏽
MAXIMILAN2QAT - No paint protection will stop scratching. The only protection which provides any ‘real’ paint protection is a GOOD ceramic coating which usually provides 1-2 microns of coating. The coating can still be scratched but it’s the coating which gets scratched and not your paint! Once the coating is approaching it’s lifespan it can then be removed and a fresh coat re-applied and your paint will still be in tact ! 👍🏽😎🚗
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Sound of your videos are in mono. Only coming out the left speaker.
No, it will NOT inevitably leave scratches behind. At least not on my Audi RS3's hard paint. It's all a question of sensitivity and proper technique. For example, I'm using good old classic Optimum ONR with dilution between 1: 14 and 1: 16 spraying it on my paint and also a certain amount on a fluffy 40x40cm polish towel and after waiting for 30 seconds I just clean it carefully with almost ZERO pressure, changing the towel side when it shows dirt. For my compact 5 cylinder rocket I need 2 or 3 (max.) towels. Each section followed directly by a soft drying towel. Easy.
No scratches so far after 12 months.
So, do you still use ONR on your Audi A3 ?
Just a note to anyone watching that's new to detailing, this is Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax not to be confused with their original formula Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine which is blue not green. You can Google the differences. Another great to the point video VPUK 👍
Blue - contains inorganic synthetic polymers which provide the protection ... Green - contains Organic Carnauba wax which provides the protection 👍🏽🤓
I get way less damage from rinseless than soap + water. It's a night and day difference, which is why I threw away my soap.
With the original formula ONR, any residual polymers left behind are easily removed with Paint Prep. Not 100%, but ONR wash & wax leaves a more robust protection behind.
Ech2o is a really nice product though. Just about everything I've used from CarPro (and Optimum for that matter) has been excellent.
I experience exactly the opposite. I find soap + water more safe on a dirty car.
Echo is my favorite detailing product. Use it once every 1-2 weeks with super plush towels as a gentle waterless wash rather than full washes. Have UK 3.0 on my car. Find it is not necessary to do full washes that often anymore because the car doesn't get that dirty except for the spring (pollen) and winter (road salt). I do not notice any change in hydrophobics. And swirling is minimal because hardly any buffing is required. I find applying something like reload or even elixir is more prone to lead to swirls because of how much buffing is required.
HeavyProfessor - Totally agree! In any walk of life you will find stand out products and for us Ech2O is one of those products! Similar to you we use Ech2O to wash our ceramic coated vehicles with great results and minimal defects! You will find the Hydrophobics very similar to UK 3.0 as they both utilise the same SiO2 just in slightly different formats for each dedicated products requirements. Detailers top tip - CarPro products (which we love) tend to be dust magnets especially with pollen! After using Ech2O try finishing it off with Kamikaze Collection OverCoat 3.1 diluting it 1:10 as a detailing spray! It removes any Ech2O residues and leaves awesome gloss! This will change hydrophobics slightly (not less just different) but you won’t be disappointed! Thanks for watching and make sure you check out the rest of the channel. If you’ve not subscribed on Instagram or UA-cam please do! Thanks 🙏🏽👍🏽🚗
Very nice informative video! Thank you! The demonstration validates my decision last week to buy a liter of ECH2O. The bonnet did look clean in the beginning, but the after-wash showed the distinct difference between the clean and the dirty. Can you do a video(s) for CarPro Reload and Elixir, two other Car Pro products that I also bought last week? Thanks again!
Dean Bush - Thank you for your kind comments! Ech2o is awesome! The gloss and cleaning power is just unreal! One of our favourite/go-to detailing products! We have recently released a video showcasing ReLoad - jump onto the channel and check it out as well as our other content! A future video in the pipeline is the comparison between Reload and a secret “detailers blend” detailing spray we use instead of EliXir. Please make sure you subscribe if you’ve not already done so, and thanks again! 👍🏽🙏🏽🚗
This is Jamaica loved the video good job 👏👏👏👏
Thank you so much 🤗
In about a month's time I will have my car detailed and coated with CarPro Cquartz Professional. A professional detailer will be doing the job. You mentioned that the CarPro Ech2o could mask the performance of the original coating. Why would CarPro have a product that could compromise the performance of another of its products? In my case, CQPRO and Ech2o. I always do rinseless washes because my car is mostly undercover and at worse, may have some road grime, dust and some water marks. I don't use hand mitts but I do use quality microfibre towels, always wiping with the clean part of the towel. I do a pre-wash with a pressure washer to remove and soften any dirt. I've used this method on my 2018 RS Megane and I found it quite quick with minimal swirl marks. I have a Scangrip pen that I use every now and again to check. I think I will continue using FEYNLAB PURE RINSELESS. It leaves nothing behind and is probably one of the best rinseless washes out there. I also only use DI water in the bucket when I do rinseless washes.
AMGPower - You’ve hit the nail on the head of one of the subjects we mention in a few of our videos ... that of ‘layering’. Whatever protection product is the last product you use is what will provide the protection characteristics! You have to remember that not everyone will use Ech2o on a ceramic coated vehicle and Ech2o is a waterless/rinseless wash in its own right - it is not a coating specific wash and is designed to wash and protect in one go. But as mentioned above, and in a few of our videos if it’s used on any existing protective coating it will leave behind its own layer of protection. You are doing the right thing - and what we advise others who have a ceramic coating - that if you want to maintain the protective characteristics of the protective coating you apply then use a waterless/rinseless product which leaves nothing behind. You may find it interesting to watch our “The truth about ceramic coats’ video as well ... just make sure you have some time 👍🏽 Thanks for watching ... and if you’ve not already subscribed please make sure you do. Thanks 👍🏽🙏🏽
There will be no scratches if use right technique and enough of pre-soaking. Also using the right wash media and the right pressure plays role.. also the paint itself. It all depends.
Thanks for the nice demonstration. I am a bit concerned on the “layering” you mentioned. My car has some water spots, will both of these products trap the water spots and make them harder to remove?
lukewatson7 - Thank you for your kind words. Much appreciated. One of the most underrated and un-spoken truths in detailing is that of layering. To answer your question - yes! They will coat the water spots and make them harder to remove! However, as is the case with most waterless/rinseless products the layer left behind will be fairly minimal and will only last a few weeks. Therefore with the correct water-spot removal product the waters-pots shouldn’t be too hard to remove as the protective layer should be removed fairly easily. Although, we would recommend removing the water spots first. It will therefore require less scrubbing and therefore damage your clearcoat less. Thanks for watching, please check out the rest of the channel, please subscribe on Instagram and UA-cam! 👍🏽🙏🏽🚗
Hello, If I may ask.
What gsm of mf that suit for waterlees and no rinse, and is it short ile or long pile?
Jonathan - Firstly thanks for watching! Great question - 300gsm+ will be fine! Long pile cloths are kinder to surfaces and have longer threads to retain dirt however they are more likely to retain dirt if not rinsed thoroughly between each wipe! Shorter pile cloths will clog a lot quicker but generally rinse out easier! When doing a rinseless/waterless wash (like most things in detailing) is mainly about using common sense! If your vehicle is dirty then opt to use long pile cloths! If it’s not that dirty then short pile is the way to go! For info our preference is short pile - hope this helps! If you’ve not already done so check out the rest of the channel & subscribe 👍🏽🙏🏽🚗
@@VProjectUKDetailing Ok noted, Thank you VPUK for the reply.
But if we pre rinse car by pressure washer and pre soaking car by rinseless via pump spray first and then using bucket method do you think will be safe ?
MAXIMILAN2QAT - The more pre-wash steps you take prior to any contact wash whether that’s waterless, rinseless or standard will make the contact stage ‘safer’ - it’s all about using the right products, steps and ultimately some common sense! “Any contact with paint is bad contact” - and ultimately at some stage you will introduce defects to painted surfaces! It’s all about minimising this as much as possible! Hard truth unfortunately - thanks for watching! If you’ve not subscribed on Instagram and UA-cam please make sure you do! Don’t forget to check out the rest of the channel! Thanks 👍🏽🙏🏽
@@VProjectUKDetailing Follow you in Instagram now 👍Thank you
This is how I'm thinking doing it
Amazing vid man, which one gave you the most gloss and which one lasted tbe longest?
Khrystian Aravena - Thank You for your kind words! That’s an easy answer - CarPro Ech2O all the way! It’s cleans so well and leaves behind gloss that is just unbelievable which lasts a few weeks before your next easy wash! Thanks for watching and subscribing. Hope you find our other videos useful too 👍🏽🙏🏽
@@VProjectUKDetailing iam planning to get the carpro ech20, car would be 10 years old, brown Honda civic, should I used any other product before or after use, thanks
Naveen Shindhe - Before use just make sure any excessive dirt, bugs, traffic film etc are rinsed off. If your vehicle is not that dirty you can go straight into CarPro Ech2o! Dilute Ech2o between 1-10 or 1-15. We generally use 1-15. After use top up the results with CarPro EliXir! We are pretty sure you’ll be more than happy with the results! Thanks for watching and if you’ve not subscribed on UA-cam & Instagram please make sure you do! Thanks 👍🏽🙏🏽
good description of the products, but I think you should keep your hands out of the screen - looks very odd in the end
bodstrup - Thank you for watching & your kind words. In our earlier videos we used a lot of ‘hands’ but responding to feedback we have reduced this in our newer content. If you’ve not already done so please check out the rest of the channel & subscribe! Thanks 👍🏽🙏🏽🚗
Do you think about Carpro Waterless?
Jim Jumbo - In our opinion the best waterless/rinseless wash. Easy to use, economical, very good surfactants that actually clean and leaves behind a nice layer of SiO2 for some outstanding gloss and Hydrophobics without smearing. Works great on all surfaces. The only thing to consider - and something we mention in several of our videos - is ‘layering’. As this will leave behind its own layer of protection it will ‘cover’ whatever it is applied to. If you have any form of protection which you want to maintain and not ‘cover’ then this may not be suitable! Thanks for watching and if you’ve not subscribed please do! Thanks 🙏🏽👍🏽
At 1:100 (as pre wash) and 1:200 (in the bucket) do you think Ech2o affects/mask LSP? (currently Overcoat topped with Cosmic spritz)
drtassos - Firstly we would say that Ech2o is one of our go to Rinseless/Waterless washes. The reason for this is that it has great cleaning power, great lubrication, is great for uses in all types of weather conditions, and leaves behind a layer of modified SiO2 that provides gloss which needs to be seen to be believed. So to answer your question - as a professional grade product yes even at those high dilutions it will still mask your LSP to some degree, but we would suggest that it will not mask it much due to the high dilutions. The main element of your question is more around the fact you are trying to establish what waterless/rinseless product you can use which will clean but not mask your LSP? The answer to that question is Feynlab Pure Rinseless. It has immense cleaning power but is not as user friendly as Ech2o. It is also a pure cleaning product so will not leave anything behind whatsoever! As a warning though … it is so concentrated that it easily removes waxes/sealants - and in the case of your LSP it will easily “kill” the hydrophobics. This is explained in our “ceramic” video so if you’ve not seen it watch it. It explains a lot of things that will just be too much to type. Unfortunately we have not produced videos for a few months but we will soon be releasing new videos and one video will showcase “Feynlab Pure Rinseless”, and another video will showcase “Kamikaze Collection OverCoat vs CarPro ReLoad”. Also - this is just for info - there is no need to use both OverCoat & Cosmic Spritz! They both serve the same purpose and you are just wasting product/money! Obviously it’s totally your choice to use anything you want so this is just to help you! Out of the two we would opt to use just OverCoat as your LSP. Thanks for watching and if you’ve not checked out the rest of the channel please make sure you do. As mentioned new videos should start to be released again soon. If you’ve not subscribed on Instagram and/or UA-cam please make sure you do! Thanks 👍🏽🙏🏽🚗
@@VProjectUKDetailing Thanks for replying, just have subscribed. The other two pure rinseless that i know are Meguiars D114 and McKees N914. Have you any experience with them? (I own D114 but haven't tried it yet)
drtassos - Thanks for the subscription! Helps grow the channel 🤗. D114 is good, but Feynlab is by far stronger so really depends on which you prefer! Feynlab will be explained in more detail in a future video on the channel. We’ll be honest and say we have no experience with the McKees! 👍🏽
Yes , this is the hard truth .
only if you're an id iot and too stupid to do it right.
Maybe if the car is heavy coated x2 or x3 by lsp wax , sealant or ceramic coating will help to minimize scratches
MAXIMILAN2QAT - No paint protection will stop scratching. The only protection which provides any ‘real’ paint protection is a GOOD ceramic coating which usually provides 1-2 microns of coating. The coating can still be scratched but it’s the coating which gets scratched and not your paint! Once the coating is approaching it’s lifespan it can then be removed and a fresh coat re-applied and your paint will still be in tact ! 👍🏽😎🚗