Annealing 3D Printed Nylon for high temperature resistance? Can it be done?
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- Опубліковано 8 чер 2024
- I have some Carbon Fibre (fiber) Nylon which I need to use in a high temperature (120degC) application, will it be suitable and can it be annealed to improve it?
Links: -
CNC Kitchens video on annealing materials...
• What's the temperature...
A great piece on annealing of Semi-crystaline polymers (which Nylon is)...
www.ptonline.com/blog/post/pa...
More info on specific annealing for Nylon...
rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-a...
Credit for title sequence slooooo-mooooo - Fern Motorsport - Наука та технологія
I print that same SainSmart 25/75 ratio CF Nylon on my Ender 3 Pro.
Micro Swiss all metal hotend, Marlin firmware (max temp set to 315C/ bed max temp set to 110C), 270C nozzle, 60C or 70C glass bed with glue stick, 30 to 40 mm/s print speed, 100% infill, .4 nozzle with .4 line width, .20 layer height, use a raft for easier part removal from the bed, printer is in an enclosure.
Makes beautiful strong parts. Layer adhesion is amazing if the filament is dry and printed at 270C or higher. 260C and below, the layers would just come apart.
Hi Salty steel, thanks for the comment, I have heard a couple of place now this filament likes 270. Anything below 250 and I saw the layer adhesion issues, but because mine is “stock” or at least lightly modded, I don’t know how good it could be at 270degC (and I’d expect the enclosure is making a difference).
To be fair, my Ender is likely to end up with a better board/firmware and in an enclosure so I’ll see the difference eventually!
What type of parts are you making with the filament, I am always interested in functional parts...
@@MakingforMotorsport I've just recently upgraded my Ender 3 Pro to print CF Nylon and I picked up pthe same SainSmart 25% CF Nylon.
I have the soft reflective fabric enclosure and I have an incandescent lightbulb suspended from the top to act as an enclosure heater, and with a temperature tower tested and confirmed, I actually find this stuff prints comfortably at 240~245c. I print [AMERICAN] parts on mine, so I can comfortably attest that it can handle high temperatures and high impact, so far I've been very happy with it.
I would like to ask you what would be the best printer with an enclosure for a budget of up to a thousand. I would prefer to have an enclosure
No idea mate, personally I’d buy a EnderS1 or Prusa and make an enclosure and save 💷💷💷
For a annealing you need to pack the parts in cornstarch and then slowly heat to temp and slowly cool. Corn starch cleans easy and doesn't burn until like 1000 degrees.
These videos were exactly what I needed, thanks! Ordered some carbon filled nylon(Fiberforce Nylforce, what was readily available in Norway), a Micro Swiss all metal hotend, and a glass bed.
Glad they were a help! I saw you using the PETG (which I can never get on with) and thought you needed to know about this stuff!
Just be sure to use some ventilation with that carbon fiber nylon stuff. It is not good for your health having thousands of particles of that stuff floating through air
Im getting an ender 3 se for chirstmas. This video is exactly what I needed as i would like to 3D print my own car parts as well. Thanks for gathering all this data and helping car people out!
Thank you for such a useful video, you got yourself a new subscriber. I had no idea that such high temperature polymers were available for 3D printing, it opens up a huge range of possibilities.
Thanks for the sub and glad you enjoyed it! If anything this is fairly low down the order, I am looking to get hold of some Essentium HTN-CF which is good in this type of test to over 200! (Apparently!) eSun do a similar one also...
i have no idea where this channel has been, but holy shit, i'm here for it now
Cheers buddy! I’ve been away for a while but I am coming back!
wow i wasnt quite expecting the temp. performance that you got. My engine rarely hits an external temp over 100C the coolant runs at about 88C on a hot day. your channel has absolutely changed my diy car experience. I appreciate your documentation and explanation of your efforts towards your car!
Thanks! I was surprised by the temperature resistance aswell! I have run the manifold on the car now and it’s standing up well.... and sounds awesome! Thanks for the comment and it’s great to hear you’re enjoying it!
I use my oven to roast potatoes, And here you are!!!
This video is excellent, keep up the great work!
I really enjoyed this. I appreciate your approach to the testing and how you tried to keep things consistent. Now I know not to bother with annealing Nylon for now
Thanks for the comment, not quite Stefan @CNC Kitchen but I did my best! I would say I will try again with a different type of Nylon and many of the grade have different properties but I don’t see the value with this ePA from Sainsmart 👍
Thank you for making this video series!!!
You’re welcome!
Great channel and video! I am thinking about printing my own inlet for ITBs as well so this was spot on!
Go for it!
Well done very informative. Keep up the great work
Working on an intake duct for my 2014 MBZ C250. I am presently in the process of printing it out of some pa-6 cf. Thank you for making this video, I was questioning whether or not I should anneal my parts.
Cheers for this! Also have a mini but will try this for a Lambretta reed intake manifold. Very usefull info!
Great stuff!! Got my first printer - an Ender 3 Pro - just this past Friday. Now, I just have to climb the Fusion 360 learning curve. Cheers.
A while back I ran model airplanes with rather hefty engines and nylon props. During startup, you would tune the mixture screw while holding the plane straight up at full throttle and get the mixture perfect. What you didn't want was an unseen crack in the prop to let go and spear you with a blade. We annealed new props by placing them in a pot full of boiling water for about an hour. Made them noticeably softer and more flexible and much tougher. I am setting up for nylon, but it is taking some time. I want to make a pressure bottle and hook it up to the compressor and (with the bottle on the far side of the garage) pump it up to max on a hot day and see what happens. I suspect that 3d printed nylon will never be close to injection cast nylon for strength. Each pass of the print head could create a weak spot which could let go under stress. I have do some vacuum manifolds and had to coat them with epoxy to keep them from leaking. I doubt that would be a problem on car manifolds.
I deliberately made the walls thick and I’m not having any problems maintaining vacuum even at temperature so it seems to be working well for now. I had thought of trying to make a 3D printed pressure vessel, it’d be fun watching it go pop!
Thank you for this video, have had the same question of “can i 3d print an intake” for a few weeks, thanks for the answers!
I've printed out a nylon bracket for a HID projector retrofit on my 996. I've not tested it but am aware these get very hot, so glad to see the nylon looks like it's up to it. Nice to print, too. Cool to see some well thought through 3d printing car DIY going on.
They do get hot but normally they have dirty big heat sinks that should draw all the heat out... the nylon looks good with heat short term but longer term material creep is my worry... we’ll see!
Would like to hear how these turn out.
Thank you for this video and all the testing you've done. I'm starting to rebuild the plastic parts in my pop corn popper, not as cool as your mini, but tasty. I know this testing isn't cheap and a bit time consuming. I'm sure this plastic is more robust than whatever the original parts were made of but the high humidity has me curious about how long they will last. if you're interested I'll update you on my progression. Happy printing!!
Cheers mate, let me know about the popcorn maker… pop corn is definitely tastier… is Nylon food safe?
Have you considered trying re-melting packed in powdered salt. I've tried this with a few 100% infill pla parts and it definitely removes the layers and increased overall strength. Effectively your getting a moulded part at 3d printed cost with a little post processing.
I've seen it done on cnc kitchen and a few others but it never seems to be 100% right, I don't think the nylon needs it but it's worth a play with the annealling effect you get from PLA.... maybe I'll give it a go in the future.
U rock man. I'm learn so much in a shot time. Thank you!!
Cheers bud! Glad you enjoyed it!
@@MakingforMotorsport Hey man, I'm in a project with my 1992 suzuki bandit (400cc 4 cylinder, 4 carburators), replacing the old carburators with EFI. I Was trying to make the inyectors bodies in order to fit perfectly into the airbox and admision as well. Do you think that I can print the inyectors bodies in Carbon Fiber nylon? For the mobile parts I'll use a old set of carburators. Thank you!!
@@emilianopustilnik447 hmmm…. It’s worth a try! I’d not thought of printing the actual throttle bodies themselves just because you can buy them relatively cheaply… a couple of things to think about, where the butterfly opens and closes needs to be a smooth area and a lot of ITBs have separate idle circuits but that’s probably too complex to replicate (and you may not need to).
There are lots of things that 3D printing can do where it isn’t the best solution but can still work, it’s a question of how many sacrifices need to be made to make it work.
This is Certainly something which could be worth having a go at, but might fall on the too many compromises side of the line.
If you do it let me know, I’d love to find out how you get on!
@@MakingforMotorsport you are right about the surface around the butterfly, I'll try to insert in that part a perfect tube, made in aluminum, with the exact size an a smooth surface. The other part of the injector body shouldn't be a problem, because only connect the airbox with de butterfly
Interesting, thanks. I'm currently experimenting printing some unavailable electrical connector housings for use on an engine from non CF reinforced nylon. It's stiffness and toughness change quite dramatically (toughness increasing, stiffness decreasing) as is absorbs moisture from the atmosphere in the first few days after printing. The moisture acts as a plasticiser apparenltly. Therefore if you do any further tests, I'd recommend leaving them to absorb moisture naturally for a while first, as this is probably less noticeable with the stiffer CF filled stuff, but will still be happening, and could have a big effect on stiffness in a real works application with a load on it, like cantilevered manifolds. Boiling, as others have suggested can apparently crack some nylon 3d prints - I've not tried it.
Great information Richard, I’ve not printed ordinary nylon yet as I heard CF-Nylon was easier to print. I’ve not noticed a difference in the manifold on the car but that’s the higher unscientific wiggle test.... I do have some other materials to do so this might be worth trying!
Really good info.
Im building a 3.4 v6 and have been thinking about building a new plenum.
Another idea Im contemplating is to use triple weber idf for the engine. In that case I would need to construct a manifold for the carbs.
With this info that would seem doable so thanks!
Once I've done a few more miles with this manifold I'll do abit of round up video....
Thanks for this. I'm making a intake manifold adapter for a boosted car (mazdaspeed3) and I chose CF nylon 6. Max temp it will ever see is ~100C coming from the head. Hopefully it holds 20 psi of boost but it will defiantly handle the temperature. I'm going to Anneal the part around 120C or so just above the temperature its going to see to hopefully prevent creep over time and from the many heat cycles it will see. I added 3mm wall brass bushings where the bolts will be going through the part for extra strength.
I’ve not tried printed manifolds with pressure yet… that pressure acts in all directions so will find the weak spot of the layers lines…. Built it big and strong brother 👍👍👍
This could be just the thing for my A-series/Mikuni semi-downdraught project. One of the many pipeline projects for my clubby estate.
I have thought about an induction manifold for the mini but because of the non-xflow head there will be alot of radiant heat... It's gonna be tricky, maybe doable but there would need to be a fair amount of heat shielding....
Thanks for that test…. I will be buying a roll and doing some testing in the California desert inside a car with a .0125 thick phone/gps/radar detector mounting plate…. Using aluminum since 2015 but the engineers at Mini in the UK have made it difficult for me to use the same mounting spot….. I now need to design a clamping system ….
Hi, so I'm currently in the process of putting some ITB's on a little Nissan truck, and the 3D printed manifold just makes so much sense to me. Only problem being that the motor has intake and exhaust on the same side of the head, in a Ex-In-In-Ex-Ex-In-In-Ex pattern. Do you think the Carbon fibre nylon will stand a chance between the hot headers or would one have to opt out for aluminum or steel? Incredibly informative videos for your side thanks alot.
Boil the parts after printing. It is common with injection molded nylon parts and makes the parts stronger. I few minutes is all that Is needed.
Hi, my tests didn’t really test for strength, but I do really like the nylon filament and I will do more testing in the future, especially strength at temperatures as there is little information on that, boiling will definitely be on the list...
@@MakingforMotorsport Nylon will absorb moisture after it's been printed. It'll make the parts a little more flexible. Not really an issue.
But it absolutely must be dry before printing or the layers won't stick at all.
This gives me all sorts of warm fuzzy feelings about my newest project, I'm making a part for my car that will be under the hood and in contact with coolant potentially at 80-90C. Seeing that your nylon held up great to nearly 200C means I should have no problem. My Nylon does not have Carbon Fiber, I may have to pick some of that eSun filament up though, I'm impressed with your results for sure. I'm also using a heavily modified ender 3, volcano all metal hotend, bltouch, magnetic pei build plate, belt driven dual z leadscrews, etc.
Excited to see someone else doing interesting things that combine 3d printing and automotive hobbies!
That’s a beast of an Ender! I haven’t printed for a while, gotta get back on the horse!
@@MakingforMotorsport I'm very impressed with it, I'm getting an IKEA table to turn into an enclosure as I've started having warping issues because of the cooler temperature in the room where I keep the printer, Hoping that solves my problems. Mostly have printed in PLA up until this project I'm working on now came into my head, so I'm hoping I can get the nylon to behave and print nicely.
@@trythistv I have a lack enclosure, two walls are plasterboard (drywall) with a aluminised insulator inside (reflects light and tidies it up, and two walls are thin acrylic… works wonders, 38degC with no extra heating. Just open the doors for PLA or it is too hot!
@@MakingforMotorsport that's awesome! I was planning on doing some kind of acrylic on one or two, my printer is in a closet so 2 sides are basically against the wall, there is a little access to one side and the front is open, so I'm debating between closing in 3 sides completely and just having the clear front door, but my table isn't coming for another couple days still. I'm excited to hear it works good for you and keeps the temps good, I'm excited for it to arrive now after hearing your success with a very similar setup to mine. Have you seen the hack somebody did with a brass nut or two on a volcano nozzle on traditional hotend for better performance?
Best of luck with it, it’s a useful thing to have! I have seen plenty of people playing with the hotend and lots of hacks, I run out of time really, the printer is a tool for me like a welder, all a means to an end, once I get a setup that works I tend to stop messing around….
You ever try using PC or its blends? Nylon might be more thermally insulative though, not sure. Also covering your print in carbon fiber would help with both strength and preventing delamination or even making smooth inner bores if needed
Have you tested the material for fuel safeness? Great vids, keep up the good work!
Thanks! 👍. Nylon has a good resistance to petroleum according to all the data sheets I looked up, but couldn’t find anything on this particular filament. I have had a bit of a test piece marinating in pure unleaded for about 2 weeks now, gonna leave it another couple and compare, but i and quietly confident🤷🏼😂
@@MakingforMotorsport well then if we "quietly" never hear about it again, we could assume that it didn't end well?
Or will we "Loudly" hear a "Bob's your Uncle" if it's a success?
@@kissmyaskew9844 if it doesn’t work I will loudly profess it a failure as there are loads of people planning this with CF-Nylon. And then it’s onto the next material, but I have run them abit now and all looks good...👍
I'd really like to see the car this is going on. I love to geek out on 3d printers and all stuff tech but I also love engines and mini's
Cool videos. I hope it works x
Can’t agree more... time for some more car stuff! Getting the car running is the next video... fingers crossed!
In the second test you used less load - needs more nuts. Teaching Tech found some filament made specially for underbonnet car parts... worth a look.
Haha! 2,414 and you my friend are the 2nd person to spot it (or at least comment). I did notice when I was uploading but I reasoned it’s not going to change the result, annealing did little for the nylon.
Yeah, Michael used ApolloX by Formfutura but that’s just ASA (a developed ABS), it’s quite good, decent stiffness and temperature resistance (much better than PETG) and it’s easier to print than ABS, I have been playing with a roll for about 2weeks, lots is under the bonnet for lower temp stuff as it’s much cheaper than the CF-Nylon.
But trust me, the CF-Nylon here is head and shoulders above everything else I have tried. I want to get my hands on some eSun HighTemp CF-Nylon.... then it’s polycarbonate! 😁
@@MakingforMotorsport Maybe im just pedantic 😁 I need to print a carb elbow for a project, so this is really helpful stuff. Was your all metal hot end expensive?
Not at all, it was about £18 off eBay and everyone is commenting I should’ve got one from AliExpress for £4 as the quality is better... check out my Ender 3 CF Nylon video. For a carb elbow on atmosphere side I would give that a go with ASA/ABS...
Hi, very nice video! I really enjoyed watching it. I am about to try annealing myself (PA6 with carbon fiber), but a different manufacturer and different printer. I am wondering whether it will be worth trying to put my part in plaster and then setting an even higher temperature. I need a mold to be able to withstand vulcanisation of a few parts, so the temperatures will be around 200 C...
I will not know until I try :-)
Let me know how you get on, I have heard that cornstarch is a good option to maintain shapes…
I've been looking for this for months
I'm doing something very similar to my mini, 1310 A plus block with twin cam BMW K1200rs head and 40mm bike carbs.
People keep telling me on the Group pages that the 3d printed manifold would melt. I think that's rubbish ,All my bikes have 'plastic' inlets and rev a lot higher than car engines,
My main reason for going the 3D print option is because I need to experiment with the runner lengths for optimal performance .
keep it going love the idea.
Hi George, sounds like your mini is a beast! I looked into the K head conversion for my mini before the Vauxhall swap but they were more than I wanted to spend at the time... does it go well???
The next throttle body video I will get into inlet tract length and pulse tuning and I will 3D print the trumpets. Unfortunately, my car isn’t road legal and with lockdown all motorsport is cancelled, first event is May! 😩
@@MakingforMotorsport currently running a Yamaha R1,as you said the twin cam engines don't come cheap
Lockdown has put it on hold,but I trying to cross all my bridges so that when I finally get the long engine back from the builder I can just swop the engines over
Keep the videos coming very interested 👍
Excellent! Sounds like a great car... I don’t know why, but there is something about minis that inspires engine swaps... maybe it’s the challenge?
Really enjoying your vids. Had a look at the comments but could see anyone ask...what is the exact nylon carbon product youre using for your tests. Looks like a winner! Thanks.
Its Sainsmart ePA-CF15. It’s good yeah but I think there are other Nylons out there which are better, I will be trying them out! 👍
From what I've heard annealing helps prevent creep
I see you like the outdated Centigrade, so here are a few more to add to your repertoire.
Distance: Cubit, Fathometer, Pes, Rode, Pole, Perch, Rood, Perches, Chain, Links, Furlong, Pole
Weight: Stone, Troy, Rod
Time: fortnight, Puncti, Minuta, Partes, Momenta
Chain: 66 feet long, and 100 links long
Furlong: 660 feet long, and 40 poles long
Rod: 16.5 feet long, and 25 links long
Square perch: 30.25 square yards
Square rod: 30.25 square yards
Hectare: 100 Ares, 10,000 m², 2 471 Acres
Are you suggesting I should be using Kelvin inside?? Or the far more random Freedom units?
Wow so creative which 3D printer did you use to print those parts ?
For this I used my Creality Ender3 Pro, lightly mod’d, there is another video on my channel on that!
Maybe think about two more parameters when annealing: is the chosen temperature close to the melting point of the plastic? If not, you may not be doing anything to the microstructure. And also think about cooling rate. You can introduce new unwanted stresses into the part if the cooling rate is fast.
Yeah, I don’t think I annealed the Nylon at all because the size didn’t change, but I made sure to just let the part cool with the oven. I’ve got plans to revisit this with new materials and an improved method.
Thanks for the comment! 👍
In your case here, ITB Manifolds, that adding metallic fins to act as heat sinks to draw heat out would work?
Also, I remember from another of your videos in this ITB series, you pointed out a water passage on the head that you were blocking off. Could you not add a passage to circulate coolant to help keep temps in check?
I thought about that, but the head is an outlet of water from the engine so it’s hot, and if the cooling is working well should be about the same temp as the head so it won’t really do much cooling and just adds loads of potential for leaks...
From what you show here i would say that annealed PLA could be used to make functional prototypes before you settle with a definitive design for your engine without wasting the nylon on the discarded designs right?
I don't know if it would resist in contact with the fuel for long periods of time but i guess it should be fine for at least a few runs each to get some data and compare the designs
Your right, annealed PLA would let you run the engine and evaluate, the difficulty is getting to maintain shape accuracy through the annealing process, it’s not something I’ve tried yet but there are plenty of videos out there... I did all the fitment tests in PLA, if I was visiting rolling roads etc then a longer lasting version would greatly help
Great test!
Does anybody if this applies for eSun ePa-CF as well? Is it maybe even the same filament since the name is identical?
All filaments are different but you’d expect similar filaments to behave similarly… so it’d be a good bet it’ll be almost the same or maybe better….
But how strong is the nylon at higher temperatures? Are the nuts a good enough test? What temperatures can you expect to face when you’re out testing?
I don’t have any numbers for “strength loss at elevated temperature” but just getting in the oven at temperature it’s still pretty stiff. I reckon 120degC is the top end of what the engine will get too, but that’s just the mating face to the head, air temp is about 30-40degC
Have you thought about doing any heat cycling tests before you make the itb manifold? I would imagine it’s the only real weak point of the material for that application.
Hi, thanks for watching, it’s a great question and the heat is my only real concern too as I plan to support the ITBs with an ally brace anyway. It was that question why I did this tests and the annealing, I also put them back on my printer with the bed at 110degC with no bad effects but that’s not proper testing.
For the long term I don’t know what to expect but this will maybe have 4 or 5 full heat cycles on a race day and I’m going to tear it down regular to start with and give it a full visual.
It’s an experiment at the moment, just thought it was more interesting that just an aluminium one that everyone has!
@@MakingforMotorsport Ahh a brace for them is a good idea! Might try this with my e30 at home haha. I'm looking forward to the build and the rest of testing. Great content and fully agree its more interesting than the aluminum ones!
Thanks, I am just finishing the 2nd part now, should be on in a couple of hours! An E30?? I had an E30 318iS years ago, absolutely loved it, it had the M42 engine and went like a baby M3! What engine are you running?
@@MakingforMotorsport Awesome! And at the moment just a 325e with the eta motor, but it wont be staying that way for long. Looking to make a budget 2.7i and itbs are on my list. I would've liked to get an M42 for lightness and all, but I think the m20 with some itbs will sound prenominal.
How has this material held up on the car? I am looking at using this for ITB manifolds on my car however I am concerned with temperatures degrading and softening the nylon. I would expect for it to see temperatures around 120C as the coolant gets up to 105C.
So far it’s held up really well, and I tend to see around 90-95 on the outside surface of the head when I measure it….
Did you take a temperature reading from the engine block to see what your running at?
Not at the time of the video, but since the manifolds have been on I have measured and the head runs at the same temp as the water +\- 3degC, so I am not expected it to exceed 110degC max
does annealing it make it more brittle? at room temp how does it compare to regular straight off the printer in regards to tensile strength, layer adhesion,etc?
I’ll be honest I didn’t notice a difference, although i wasn’t testing for that, they seemed just as good after….
If the crystallinity does increase, it may reduce the water absorption and attenuate the change of properties the PA suffers because of moisture 🤔
Hi Santiago, that is a very interesting point and some major Materials Science piece, but on reflection I am not sure I achieved much of a change in crystallinity, as there was little change in the size and properties. Therefore there are 2 options, this blend of Nylon doesn’t respond to annealing or it was already annealed by the heating of the bed and the slow cooling, I prefer option 1.
As for change in properties of “dry” vs “saturated” nylon, that’s something I don’t have a feel for..... might be worth a test!
Awesome! I'm eager to see that test too :D
How are they holding up? I. Looking to bolt up to something that runs from 180-260F for several hours.
Running well… no thermal issues at all… I should say that 260f is beyond what I run to tho…
would an insulating material for the intake gasket be a good option as well?
It would help but then the bolts/studs will act as a thermal bridge straight into the highest stress area of the manifold, so your kind of on a loser
@@MakingforMotorsport A good solution to prevent heat transfer from studs would be PTFE bushings (or other insulating material) pressed into holes on the manifold. would also increase rigidity on those weaker corners.
How well do you think this would work out printing an entire intake manifold
My plan is to make an gm ls intake but am afraid of the pressures and heat
I have printed an intake manifold out of it and plenty of others have too, I don’t know of anyone using it in a boosted application yet…
Plenty of vids around on it (I have a few 😉)
is it just me or did you use different weights on the second test?
on the first there was 3 bolts and on the second only 2
Tom! 5points to you! And your only the 3rd person to notice it!
heat insulation paint? I about to do the same thing but not that part.
Never really thought about it. My initial though is that heat resistant paint will help with radiant heat by reflecting it away, but with a manifold the heat is being conducted through from the head…
what nylon filament do you recommend for making a power steering piece? Also do you have a link to the filament.
Not sure I’d recommend any kind of 3D print for steering... steering and brakes really are safety critical. Which bit are you making?
I can’t put external links here but I got mine from Amazon...
@@MakingforMotorsport It's a simple block off plate, not an actual part of the steering.
@@offensivetomato2294 I had to ask 😂 some people need saving from themselves!
Next question: do you need the carbon fibers since all they are are bits of fiber vs lines
You’d be surprised the difference the CF makes, to the overall stiffness but also printing, regular nylon likes to warp but this is soooo much better! Also, I think the Cf is helping a lot with the higher temps. My favourite filament!
All that said, it doesn’t compare to proper CF tow in a proper matrix and resin like conventional CF, but I’m still glad to have it!
Did you try ceramic dip?
Not yet, 2ndary coatings are on the list to do, but if I can get away without post processing I will…
What a voice
Surely the best test is to put it on the car and try?
Next job on the list!!! (Well, almost...). Press the bell so you get notified of the next video! Thanks for the comment!
Almost scientific except for you used 2 nuts on the samples rather than the 3 nuts before annealing. I know it requires a lot of time but we don't truly know if annealing actually helped with the CF nylon, or if it did how much
10 points to you! 1,458 views and you are the first to notice and comment! I noticed when doing my watch back before making public but decided it wouldn’t change the result much with this test, I would need a lot more load than just 3 nuts to show a result at a lower temp. I learnt the main lesson that it stands up well to the 120degC which I needed.
Tell the truth, I don’t think the was any increase in crystallinity as dimension change is a key indicator and these just didn’t change at all. Makes me wonder if it was annealed during the build plate cool 🤔
I do want to repeat this test but measure the deflection properly with a dti to general a proper curve but other projects are calling. I may return to this in a few months with a better test setup...
Loads between test 1 (3 nuts) and test 2 (2 nuts) are not the same. Results cannot be compared.
Was that a nylon 6 or 12?
ePA, so no particular proprietary blend like Nylon6 or 66 or 12 etc
Didn't watch the video but the answer is no. You need a crystalline plastic like pla for annealing to do anything. Asa or abs are also uninfected by annealing.
Maybe you should watch the video. Nylon is semi-crystalline and many grades react very well to annealing….
Nylon needs to be annealed in a Nitrogen Atmosphere (Air has water in it even at high temps) you can also anneal it in oil also you anneal it for 30min per 1/4" of thickness (little over 6mm) at 375F also when taking out drop temp 50F every half hour.. not every plastic is the same as you are aware, neither is there annealing process!! please stop treating it like PLA
Good knowledge, I like the idea of annealing in oil!
@@MakingforMotorsport understandable, it's easily available. gas annealing is an investment!!! not cheap..!