Thanks for stopping by. Don't forget to subscribe here: bit.ly/2VOKOaa , Also be sure to check out my latest vids. Once my doors are finished, we will be moving forward on the 72. We still have alot of metal work to do on the shell of the car. Follow along on this journey with me. Thanks for watching. Russ
Hey thanks a lot for taking the time to make the video I find it extremely informational on the key areas love how you're getting it square and lined up for fitting panels. I am preparing for the same process on my 73 Trans Am I'm very close for proper and Final assembly paint 2 long years but the satisfaction is priceless
It's good to have those fenders on there so you can step back and look at, giving you new inspiration to follow through, which I am sure you have done. Thanks for sharing Russ.
Love 2nd Gen Camaros especially the Z28 one of my favourite cars.... I enjoy watching your vids and I always learn something from you so thank you for posting your work Cheers from Canada
Russ, your right there are tons of adjustments on Sub frame cars, I also found if the sub frame is just a hair out of square with the body when you bolt her up that makes a big difference at the door gaps, I am sure you will get it. Also when you get the inner wells on you may have even more adjustment! Looking good Russ.
Thanks Cary, you are correct. I do plan to test fit the inner fenders too. I almost had them powder coated, but I'm glad I held off. I still plan to, but it will make test fitting alot easier without having to worrry about scratching them.
You're absolutely correct so many people just don't realize if you wanted to come out right you need to go through the steps just like you're doing and if you don't and you skip overlooked items that in the end it clearly does not shine like the rest of the car and you can tell that the time in love put into it did not come from someone what does desire to make it right
Hey buddy I am so thankful for your vid. I was having the same issue with driverside, after a couple days on it i was ready to cry, (but I am man, so i just threw my hammer and started screaming at the car lol I figured it out , usually from worn bushings and mounts, and still being driven, it sags and gains memory so with new bushings... also, check it because of the way the body twist with out sub connectors, not only is that an issue on its own, but combined... So after i shimmed the bushing by a pillar, the fender lined up with little effort... you can adjust the mounts re weld them too..... Also one thing is the hood. measure hood at both ends. then add the gap to it, same gap as with the nose cone lined up to fenders, minus the hood, and make sure the fenders at back of hood have same gap, my hood was 57.5"...
Thanks Erik. Yes these gaps will drive you crazy. I will have to double check my hood gap. 57.5 sounds right. I do have new bushings, but haven't installed the connectors yet. Thanks for watching.
looks real good Russ I am having the same issues with the drivers door gap due to my door having damage about 6 inches back from the front door gap. your on the right track putting the doors on and all but I don't know how important the fender to door gap will be at this point but better safe than sorry later. the second gen Camaros are one of my favorites and the nose of those cars just looks mean
Making some good progress Russ! One thing you probably already checked is the subframe mounting is correct. This will change everything up front if it is not square. Really enjoy your videos.
Thanks Jon, I appreciate the kind words. You are correct. Sam and I double checked the subframe in a couple of locations. Its very close, within a 1/16, if not dead on. I'm planning on pulling the subframe one more time, after the rear of the car is done. Ive got some firewall work to do and there is some rust in the cowl that has to be dealt with. I wont manufacture these gaps until I get this all done. Hopefully after that it goes back on for the last time.
Nice bit of visual progress there Russ. I recently learned something interesting about Factory panel alignment. Where the factory would set the front fenders slightly further out from the door, to reduce buffeting and wind noise. Apparrently common practice on GM stuff so you'll notice a lot of these cars the front fenders tend to want to stick out further than the door. Thats no mistake of your own its just what was deemed acceptable and again to cut down on wind getting caught behind the front leading edge of the door. Thought it was interesting and made a lot of sense. No excuse for us to not bust ass and get em as nice as possible tho. Cheers mate.
Very good observation. I have said that for years. The rejects from the assembly line where shipped off to the parts department. And let the poor guy installing it have to deal with it. Nine times out of ten there is a reason its in a box.
I am digging the 72. You should be able to get the gaps the way you want when you put the skins on the doors. Nice to see it starting to come together.
you're right about those nos fenders, there's a reason why they didn't get used. My next 2nd gen, I will align the old fenders before I tear it down, then if I have trouble, I know the subframe is off.
Yes, this was just a preliminary fit to see where I'm at for skinning the doors which is what I'm still working on. I do plan to manufacturer the gaps with weld/rod before epoxy.
I have an '80 Z-28 and the gaps are a real pain in the butt.The gaps at the bottom of my doors are like 5/8 inch. and that's from the factory so I have my work cut out for me building the bottom gap up with sheet metal....Your door gaps on the bottom looks great I wish mine did.But mine will look great when they're done.
Thanks. These 2nd gens gaps seem to be all over the place. I think my door to rocker gaps are a little large. Not sure yet if I will close them up some. Thanks for watching.
Hey hows it going?Glad i found your channel. Im finally starting my 1972 RS/Z28 clone.I had a real 70 Z28 20years ago and the scumbag city i grew up in stole it.A few years ago when i had the money i finally decided to look for 1 i could afford. Spent 2 years looking.I wanted a 70 like they say people in hell want ice water.It came down to two 72s one was a real RS with no tranny or engnie and the guy was a jackass on top of it.It was the other which is what i wanted anyhow.It had a fire but it didnt get pass the fire wall.It engine has a rod knock.I started it a couple of times using gas can to bypass the gas tank.I have to go under the car to put the th350 in neutral.Dont know if the tranny or rear end work.I got an engine and tranny to go in it.Im trying to fix the rust problem which theres less than i thought.The problem is the last owner put so much body filler and bondo on it.Im having to take it down to bare metal which i didnt want to do but theres no choice.Im waiting for my spray max epoxy primer.Hopefully put it on within the next week.Any advice or suggestions would be much appreciated.Thanks
Great video as always & glad to see you get back on this one sir. Where are you in Wv? I'm in ky on the wv outside mingo co Wv. We do most of our shopping in wv instead of ky because it's so close. Also I just can't remember a video about the history of this car and what it means to you. I know it's been a long project and hope to see it get on the road this year.
Thanks, I'm in VA, about 2 hrs from Bristol, and about 1 hr from WV north and NC south. I doubt it will be on the road this year. Too much metal work to be done. I bought this car a long time ago as a project. Life got in the way and it sat for a long time. I may do a vid on the history of the car as I know it. Thanks for watching.
Good Job Russ. Lots of good info. I have been following asicerik's build. His car is looking good as well. Are you putting in new bolts in your sheetmetal or did you just clean them up. If so, what process did you use to clean them?
Thanks Wes. A little of both. I was missing several items for the car. I purchased what I needed from AMK products. Their parts and quality are spot on. Some of the plastic clips and such, you just have to replace. As for the bolts, I restored alot of them myself. I have a vid on the process here : ua-cam.com/video/iOciisXubsk/v-deo.html . Something I'm finding out is "its good to have a mock up set", even if its just a bolt that has been blasted. That way when you get to final assembly the hardware is fresh looking.
That gap on the drivers side didn't you say the gap was tight at door and quarter ,you have a wide gap at the door and front fender , if you loosen the hinge bolts at the cowl hinge pillar and move both forward toward the front ,you would widen the gap at the quarter to door and make the gap smaller at the front.And yes you are right about GM New old stock fenders they maybe seconds , Take my word for it they can be made to work , I was a Auto body tech for 24yrs ,hopes this helps, and do a cross measurement again after ou have the front end together to check for squareness with a tram gage if you have one.
Len, thanks for the help. I do need to get a tram gauge. I have it close, but it needs some tweaking here and there. I will look at the hinge/cowl adjustments.
Trick loosen the top hinge to cowl lift door and retighten bolts , then loosen the bottom hinge to cowl and let the door settle down to fit door gap ,now the door should be moved forward at the front fender and gap will be smaller. And the rear door gap bigger
Chevy3939 Harvey, On the drivers side is the intake where I pull fresh air into when spraying. I have doors that are closed on the other side. I'm basically working in the area that I sometimes spray. Not the best situation. This is just a hobby for me. I'm in the telecommunications buisness.
Resultados da pesquisa Resultado da tradução Português Inglês amigo qual seria a medida que fez do paralama.. saberia me informar qual seria a media entre a roda dianteira e traseira quando vamos regular o subframe ? friend what would be the measure that made the paralama .. could you tell me what would be the average between the front and rear wheel when we go to regulate the subframe?
they still make the wire rubber u get them for cable and u can get different sizes plus i use to work right next door to a big scrap yard u would s on what i see people scrap cars in perfect condition but the yard don't sell them they only crush them watched a 70 mach 1 get crushed with the bb in it camero's all years of them makes me sick and a lot of them are very good cars to build but i still collect what i can
ps it seems that they all fit this way even from factory u have to wield or grind the gap they never fit right i have one that is all factory and the gap is just like ur car and it was never touched
@@jeffrey4547 Yes, these cars were not like the ones built today. I agree, you have to make the gaps what you want or live with the way they are. Thanks for watching.
Double R Restorations I had a 77 formula firechicken that I wish I still had but recently went up to the 3rd gen and got an 87 Bird. I know not much value there but still like the body lines. it has a 400 SBC in it now 5sp. Should be a fun little cruiser. Hoping anyway haha Your videos are cool. Real nice work! Subscribed. Have a good day.
Thanks for stopping by. Don't forget to subscribe here: bit.ly/2VOKOaa , Also be sure to check out my latest vids. Once my doors are finished, we will be moving forward on the 72. We still have alot of metal work to do on the shell of the car. Follow along on this journey with me. Thanks for watching. Russ
Great advice ! Follow you as I'm restoring my 73z28. Thanks a ton !
Thanks, and thanks for watching
Hey thanks a lot for taking the time to make the video I find it extremely informational on the key areas love how you're getting it square and lined up for fitting panels. I am preparing for the same process on my 73 Trans Am I'm very close for proper and Final assembly paint 2 long years but the satisfaction is priceless
Thanks fire fighter. Yes, lots of work fitting these old panels
It's good to have those fenders on there so you can step back and look at, giving you new inspiration to follow through, which I am sure you have done. Thanks for sharing Russ.
It sure is George. It will be good for it to look like a car again.
Love 2nd Gen Camaros especially the Z28 one of my favourite cars.... I enjoy watching your vids and I always learn something from you so thank you for posting your work Cheers from Canada
69 NovaGuy Thanks, I appreciate it. I should have an update out soon.
Always Educational! Love the details. You're helping me build me confidence. Love the little tricks!
Thanks Mike. You will do great when you get to the body work.
Russ, your right there are tons of adjustments on Sub frame cars, I also found if the sub frame is just a hair out of square with the body when you bolt her up that makes a big difference at the door gaps, I am sure you will get it. Also when you get the inner wells on you may have even more adjustment! Looking good Russ.
Thanks Cary, you are correct. I do plan to test fit the inner fenders too. I almost had them powder coated, but I'm glad I held off. I still plan to, but it will make test fitting alot easier without having to worrry about scratching them.
You're absolutely correct so many people just don't realize if you wanted to come out right you need to go through the steps just like you're doing and if you don't and you skip overlooked items that in the end it clearly does not shine like the rest of the car and you can tell that the time in love put into it did not come from someone what does desire to make it right
Absolutely, definitely takes alot of time. Hoping to get some more garage time soon.
Thanks for the video. Lots of great info and helpful tips.
Manny Escalante Thanks for watching
Really looking forward to this project. Looks great so far. Bring the videos on!
Thanks. Will do. Got a long way to go. I'm going to try to knock out some metal work this year
your working hard and having fun so keep up the good work.
Thanks, and thanks for watching
Hey buddy I am so thankful for your vid. I was having the same issue with driverside, after a couple days on it i was ready to cry, (but I am man, so i just threw my hammer and started screaming at the car lol
I figured it out , usually from worn bushings and mounts, and still being driven, it sags and gains memory so with new bushings... also, check it because of the way the body twist with out sub connectors, not only is that an issue on its own, but combined...
So after i shimmed the bushing by a pillar, the fender lined up with little effort... you can adjust the mounts re weld them too.....
Also one thing is the hood. measure hood at both ends. then add the gap to it, same gap as with the nose cone lined up to fenders, minus the hood, and make sure the fenders at back of hood have same gap, my hood was 57.5"...
Thanks Erik. Yes these gaps will drive you crazy. I will have to double check my hood gap. 57.5 sounds right. I do have new bushings, but haven't installed the connectors yet. Thanks for watching.
looks real good Russ I am having the same issues with the drivers door gap due to my door having damage about 6 inches back from the front door gap. your on the right track putting the doors on and all but I don't know how important the fender to door gap will be at this point but better safe than sorry later. the second gen Camaros are one of my favorites and the nose of those cars just looks mean
Thanks Chris. I agree, it might not be too important at this stage.
I have a 76 rally sport I'm trying to do the fenders and new hood on and its been a hard battle.. I'm located in VA also
It's a balancing act for sure with the sheetmetal and these old Camaros
Wow I'm just lost as to how you guys can do these total builds. Awesome to follow along.
Thanks Steve
Hi Russ. Good to see you back on the 72'. Keep pounding.
Thanks Darryl. I sure will.
Making some good progress Russ! One thing you probably already checked is the subframe mounting is correct. This will change everything up front if it is not square.
Really enjoy your videos.
Thanks Jon, I appreciate the kind words. You are correct. Sam and I double checked the subframe in a couple of locations. Its very close, within a 1/16, if not dead on. I'm planning on pulling the subframe one more time, after the rear of the car is done. Ive got some firewall work to do and there is some rust in the cowl that has to be dealt with. I wont manufacture these gaps until I get this all done. Hopefully after that it goes back on for the last time.
Nice bit of visual progress there Russ. I recently learned something interesting about Factory panel alignment. Where the factory would set the front fenders slightly further out from the door, to reduce buffeting and wind noise. Apparrently common practice on GM stuff so you'll notice a lot of these cars the front fenders tend to want to stick out further than the door. Thats no mistake of your own its just what was deemed acceptable and again to cut down on wind getting caught behind the front leading edge of the door. Thought it was interesting and made a lot of sense. No excuse for us to not bust ass and get em as nice as possible tho. Cheers mate.
Very interesting Sam. Makes sense too. I noticed the spec in the manual has the fender sitting out just a tad than the door. Thanks.
Man its nice to see the fenders on even if its only a temporary lining up.
Very good observation. I have said that for years. The rejects from the assembly line where shipped off to the parts department. And let the poor guy installing it have to deal with it. Nine times out of ten there is a reason its in a box.
I agree. Some of them I have received are good, but alot of them need work. Thanks for watching.
Those body gaps will drive you insane. I do like the gap tool you have though! I need one of those! I've been using paint sticks ;)
Thanks Jay. They will drive you crazy.
Great work brother !!! She's going to be a sweet ride!!! Cheers 🍻
Thanks, and thanks for watching.
I am digging the 72. You should be able to get the gaps the way you want when you put the skins on the doors. Nice to see it starting to come together.
Thanks, it will be a bit of motivation to see it as a car again.
you're right about those nos fenders, there's a reason why they didn't get used. My next 2nd gen, I will align the old fenders before I tear it down, then if I have trouble, I know the subframe is off.
Yes, my passenger side is good, the drivers side is a little off. Thanks for watching
I need floor done in my 72 z28 are you able to do that type of work?
Walter, not at this time I'm not, my day job has us working alot of ot.
@@DoubleRRestorations ok yea it’s busy season for me also at slurry pavers here in Richmond va
your doing it the right way for sure , lots of on and off with the panels for sure
Thanks Roger. Your gap videos are going to help alot.
Alignment is a battle I haven't fought yet. Good luck.
Thanks April. It takes several days, sometimes I just have to take a break and work on a different area.
Do you think that you'll need to lead the edge on the drivers side fender/door to close the gap?
Yes, this was just a preliminary fit to see where I'm at for skinning the doors which is what I'm still working on. I do plan to manufacturer the gaps with weld/rod before epoxy.
Car looks good partially assembled!
Thanks Sam
thanks Russ got mine figured out thanks again for the info and yes win u do the hood that's Gona change thanks two
No problem. Thanks for watching.
I just found your channel. Great job. You’re in SWVA? Went school in Wise, VA. Don’t live far away either. I’ll be following now.
Yes, I'm up towards VA Tech. I have worked alot in Norton and Wise. Thanks for following along.
Wow, is that your home shop? So spotless. I'd like to one day have a garage like yours.
Thanks fg, yes this is my home shop. It has been alot of work, but I really enjoy working in it.
I've seen those red body bushings. Like those because they pop out and you can see right away they been replaced.
I agree. They do stand out.
I have an '80 Z-28 and the gaps are a real pain in the butt.The gaps at the bottom of my doors are like 5/8 inch. and that's from the factory so I have my work cut out for me building the bottom gap up with sheet metal....Your door gaps on the bottom looks great I wish mine did.But mine will look great when they're done.
Thanks. These 2nd gens gaps seem to be all over the place. I think my door to rocker gaps are a little large. Not sure yet if I will close them up some. Thanks for watching.
Hey hows it going?Glad i found your channel. Im finally starting my 1972 RS/Z28 clone.I had a real 70 Z28 20years ago and the scumbag city i grew up in stole it.A few years ago when i had the money i finally decided to look for 1 i could afford. Spent 2 years looking.I wanted a 70 like they say people in hell want ice water.It came down to two 72s one was a real RS with no tranny or engnie and the guy was a jackass on top of it.It was the other which is what i wanted anyhow.It had a fire but it didnt get pass the fire wall.It engine has a rod knock.I started it a couple of times using gas can to bypass the gas tank.I have to go under the car to put the th350 in neutral.Dont know if the tranny or rear end work.I got an engine and tranny to go in it.Im trying to fix the rust problem which theres less than i thought.The problem is the last owner put so much body filler and bondo on it.Im having to take it down to bare metal which i didnt want to do but theres no choice.Im waiting for my spray max epoxy primer.Hopefully put it on within the next week.Any advice or suggestions would be much appreciated.Thanks
Sorry this comment was held for review and i missed it. Did you get your car in epoxy?
great video its coming along very nice
Thanks Rod
Great video as always & glad to see you get back on this one sir. Where are you in Wv? I'm in ky on the wv outside mingo co Wv. We do most of our shopping in wv instead of ky because it's so close. Also I just can't remember a video about the history of this car and what it means to you. I know it's been a long project and hope to see it get on the road this year.
Thanks, I'm in VA, about 2 hrs from Bristol, and about 1 hr from WV north and NC south. I doubt it will be on the road this year. Too much metal work to be done. I bought this car a long time ago as a project. Life got in the way and it sat for a long time. I may do a vid on the history of the car as I know it. Thanks for watching.
Good to see you back on the Camaro buddy! This part sure is fun, right?
Thanks Erik. Yea fun, lol! I'm really hoping the header and hood lines up ok.
Good progress.
Thanks Jo
Good Job Russ. Lots of good info. I have been following asicerik's build. His car is looking good as well. Are you putting in new bolts in your sheetmetal or did you just clean them up. If so, what process did you use to clean them?
Thanks Wes. A little of both. I was missing several items for the car. I purchased what I needed from AMK products. Their parts and quality are spot on. Some of the plastic clips and such, you just have to replace. As for the bolts, I restored alot of them myself. I have a vid on the process here : ua-cam.com/video/iOciisXubsk/v-deo.html . Something I'm finding out is "its good to have a mock up set", even if its just a bolt that has been blasted. That way when you get to final assembly the hardware is fresh looking.
thanks brother.
That gap on the drivers side didn't you say the gap was tight at door and quarter ,you have a wide gap at the door and front fender , if you loosen the hinge bolts at the cowl hinge pillar and move both forward toward the front ,you would widen the gap at the quarter to door and make the gap smaller at the front.And yes you are right about GM New old stock fenders they maybe seconds , Take my word for it they can be made to work , I was a Auto body tech for 24yrs ,hopes this helps, and do a cross measurement again after ou have the front end together to check for squareness with a tram gage if you have one.
Len, thanks for the help. I do need to get a tram gauge. I have it close, but it needs some tweaking here and there. I will look at the hinge/cowl adjustments.
Trick loosen the top hinge to cowl lift door and retighten bolts , then loosen the bottom hinge to cowl and let the door settle down to fit door gap ,now the door should be moved forward at the front fender and gap will be smaller.
And the rear door gap bigger
Great tip, I will definitely try it out. Thanks
Russ do you do this type of work for a living?? Is that a spray both on the drivers side of the car?Thanks Harvey
Chevy3939 Harvey, On the drivers side is the intake where I pull fresh air into when spraying. I have doors that are closed on the other side. I'm basically working in the area that I sometimes spray. Not the best situation. This is just a hobby for me. I'm in the telecommunications buisness.
I would like to talk to you this is my email Harvey.Cross@NewMarket.com
excellent video!
Thanks and thanks for watching.
You know what I'm up to lol This vid is gonna help a lot
Thanks Jeff. It's alot of trial and error on these front end parts.
Resultados da pesquisa
Resultado da tradução
Português
Inglês
amigo qual seria a medida que fez do paralama.. saberia me informar qual seria a media entre a roda dianteira e traseira quando vamos regular o subframe ?
friend what would be the measure that made the paralama .. could you tell me what would be the average between the front and rear wheel when we go to regulate the subframe?
Are you asking what is the wheel base measurement?
Nice work Russ, what kind of paint did you use on the core support?
Thanks Sam. Its actually powder coated semi gloss black. I don't know the powder manufacture. I can find out though.
This is just a test fit, right? Because the inners go on the fender then the fender goes on the car. rock on Double R
terry Yes, just a quick test fit. There will be many more too. Thanks for watching.
Good stuff
Thanks James
Great information
Thanks Cliff
they still make the wire rubber u get them for cable and u can get different sizes plus i use to work right next door to a big scrap yard u would s on what i see people scrap cars in perfect condition but the yard don't sell them they only crush them watched a 70 mach 1 get crushed with the bb in it camero's all years of them makes me sick and a lot of them are very good cars to build but i still collect what i can
ps it seems that they all fit this way even from factory u have to wield or grind the gap they never fit right i have one that is all factory and the gap is just like ur car and it was never touched
That's sad to hear that they crush them.
@@jeffrey4547 Yes, these cars were not like the ones built today. I agree, you have to make the gaps what you want or live with the way they are. Thanks for watching.
makes me wonder how the factory got this shit right
On these cars back then, the gaps were really bad from GM. Nothing like what we are doing today. Thanks for watching.
Double R Restorations I had a 77 formula firechicken that I wish I still had but recently went up to the 3rd gen and got an 87 Bird. I know not much value there but still like the body lines.
it has a 400 SBC in it now 5sp. Should be a fun little cruiser. Hoping anyway haha
Your videos are cool. Real nice work! Subscribed. Have a good day.
batz capo Thanks man. I love the 3rd gens. Started out in an 87 Camaro. They are going up in value. Thanks for watching.