1995-1999 gm suv/truck door lock actuator and interior handle replacement
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- a video showing how to replace an interior door handle and a door lock actuator on a 1999 gmc suburban, this procedure should be good on gm trucks and suv from 1995-1999. UPDATE, DO NOT BUY THE ACTUATOR FROM E BAY THAT I DID. THE 15 $ PART IS JUNK! TAKE YOUR MONEY AND BUY FROM A REPUTABLE SOURCE SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO DO IT TWICE LIKE I DID :)
This was the ONLY video I could find on the internet for the BACK door (not tailgate door). It is a very different setup than the front. THANK YOU sir. Much appreciated .
I'm attempting to do this as I did on the front door...without removing the bracket rivets. It was much easier access on the front, so I'm trying to steel my patience. Wish me luck.
On the fronts, I realized I'd be re-using the OEM brackets already.
I had to use my chainsaw blade file to file out a tiny part of one hole which I hope I can manage inside the back door. If I can just unbolt the actuator, I'd prefer to do that.
I'm disconnecting both rods for easier access. (The door lock rod is a beast!)
And these back doors are tight!
Additionally, my '99 Crew Cab does not have the nice stereo upgrades that the Yukons have. I wanted to add a speaker in the rear doors (which I assume I'll have to also wire from the sail panel speaker feed.)
I was befuddled when I removed the door and there was no speaker hole behind the grill!
I wish you had Flashed the rear side of that plastic panel a bit more.
But I was able to determine that
#1 the speaker does attach to the panel unlike in the front where it attaches to the door metal.
#2 I will have to cut a hole in the door panel to mount the speaker.
I'm still trying to figure out their method of mounting the speaker but I can probably find some info on that elsewhere. I don't have huge confidence in those plastic panels supporting a speaker that vibrates all the time. Maybe I can add some huge washers.
Now, on to Crutchfield to find some Speakers. I'll probably try to match the Polks I put in front last year. They seem to be working well.
Thanks again for the effort brother .
I'm sure putting these videos together is no party. That's why I'm not doing it, though I'd like to.
Update: doing it without removing the rivets was a definite no-go. Found a basic rivet gun at Harbor freight for 4.99.
Once rivets were removed the project went along without too many hiccups.
I still reused the OEM bracket.
Off subject but,
I Researched speakers for the back doors. According to Crutchfield, OEM speakers were never available for the Crew Cab, despite the grills being there.
Looks like they they just used the same door panel from the Suburban where fitment for the doors shows 6 3/4" same as the front. So I just ordered the same Polks for the back .
Interestingly , the Suburban uses a 4x10 pillar speaker and the Crew Cab uses a 4x6.
Went ahead and ordered a pioneer 4-way for that location.
Might as well strip the whole interior whole I'm there.😂
Just had to let you know that I was struggling to get the new actuator in place and then I took a deep breath and turned to you tube. Your video solved my problem. By switching the brackets old to the new it slipped right in. Thanks
awesome! glad it could help, have a good day! thanks for watching!
Thank you so much. Just saved myself a bundle thanks to this vid!!
Thanks for taking the time making this video. I need that tool clip.
your welcome, hope it helps. here is a link to those tools, i got a set just like this from harbor freight
www.harborfreight.com/paneltrim-removal-tool-set-6-pc-63032.html
I had to use my trusty oldest metal trim tool on the door panel.
It just laughed at my plastic set.
Thanks for the video! This will help when I go to do it on my 98 K1500.
your welcome, hope it helps. i get to do mine again because i bought a cheap part. my only suggestion buy a good part from your local gm or napa store. good luck and take care
and if you do not have the clip remover, just use a barbeque fork !!!!
Doing this today. I bought the Dorman from Autozone, came with a lifetime warranty, which I will write on the door's subframe in sharpie. I might even tape the receipt there lol. I have a suspicion the Dorman is just the cheap Ebay one marked up and given a warranty
dorman is sold by a few places not just online, napa and checker actually sell dorman stuff too. Good luck man!
I also pre-ordered the Dorman from Amazon a few days before starting the project. It was more expensive than the off-brands, but my rubber boot was shredded!
I was happy that they not only supplied the plastic boot, but it was much BETTER than the OEM actuator. This was a plus and a minus. The boot was a pain to uninstall and reinstall. But it made mounting to the bracket much easier, especially since the Dormans come with nuts and washers for the Top!
Of course, it's still made in china, so only time will tell if it's truly better.
Thanks for the video and the tip to buy the part from GM or NAPA!!
glad it helped, i don't like doing things twice especially if it's because i bought a cheap part to save a few bucks. good luck and happy new year!
I just replaced the inner door handle and now the truck will lock and I can open the door. Cool. But it won’t unlock now. The cheap replacement won’t let it unlock fully. Works fine without the inner handle hooked up. Could it be that the lock actuator isn’t working as strong as it should? Sucks cause it’s the driver door otherwise I wouldn’t care so much. Thanks for any input!!
Max Jones I'd start by making sure the rods are tracked in the clips correctly and maybe shoot some graphite lube on them. I had one do this to me and that was the issue, the rod needed cleaned and got slightly bent so I had to clean and bend it back. Works good now,. Try that
I had the same issue.
Just be thankful.it's your driver door.the front doors are a ton easier to access than the back !
Lube everything! Except the glass.😜
Is there some reason that you didn't replace the rivets with rivets ?
What size bolts did you use to fasten the actuator to the door?
I hope you still reply, my rod that connects. The lock switch to the door, I think that's what it is, is mangled beyond repair. Is there anyway I can replace the rod? And do you know how it would be done?
yes you can replace those. they clip into a couple different tracks pop them out of the tracks and disconnect them from the latch and the door handle. you might have to take the 3 screws out that hold the door latch into the door itself.
@@snickerstorino I'm not visualizing what you mean by "tracks" that the rod clips into. Maybe I have to get the door apart before I'll understand that....? Good video, some of us need to start at square 1, lol. Hope that nasty cough etc went away!!
Oh yeah, you'll definitely have to remove the door panel to replace the rod(s).
You might be able to shine a flashlight inside with the window down and see the white plastic guides the rods slide thru. That's part of what keeps them from bending. My fronts were not too bad. But I had to (carefully) crowbar the back to pop it out!
Maybe the rona back in 2015
Before it was cool
who is UA-cam not me I'm a UA-camr
didn't need a whole story get to the point man
67z sorry for the lengthy video UA-camr :)
Sorry I didn't mean to be a dick I was just frustrated .I shouldn't have took it out on you . I appreciate your time to make this video .It really helped me out thanks again and sorry my apologies
no worries man, glad it helped. honestly you sounded more like you were joking around versus actually being serious. i have seen much worse so no offense taken ha ha.
Just skip ahead. I did. Better to much info than not enough.