As an ex mechanic, and a Nissan hater, I fuckin love your brutal honesty. Cussing out engineers, calling a piece of shit a piece of shit, etc, etc. I love it !! Keep up the the good work !! Nissan = JUNK.
Wow that's amazing. I've been seeing more and more videos online about people talking specifically about Nissan and other manufacturers in their brake pads wearing out really quickly. I think there's something going on but I'm glad you had some good mileage out of your brakes.
Well as an owner of a 2019 QX60 with 84k kilometres, I can confirm that the original front brakes are still there, but I will be replacing soon as the inner pads are down to 4mm thickness. Interesting is that I already replaced the rear pads and rotors at 52k kilometres, these cars have a rear bias for braking to minimize front end dive in city stop & go driving. So many cars are set up this same way. I live in SW Ontario with all the salt and sand that nobody really wants for 5 months per year. I do Krown every 18 months, we'll see how it holds up. To the design of the Nissan rear brakes, yes this is not optimum but other brands have their own special designs that would provoke you to swear, but I think you enjoy this form of colourful expression? VW Passat, Ford Flex being my own experience with stuck wind-back caliper pistons despite careful lubrications. I worked in the metal stampings area of the Automotive Industry for most of my career, I can tell you that very few OEM design their own braking systems. They buy from Tier 1 vendors that offer complete systems that include all 4 corners with integration of ABS/AWD/Traction Control/Autonomous Braking etc. That the suspension system vendor and the brake system vendor didn't meet to prevent problems is 100% Nissans fault. Start your swearing. BTW, the torque for the front caliper bracket bolts is 92 foot pounds, but 107 is okayish because you slather on all that copper antisieze. Fun video.
I'm amazed that you got that much because I'm seeing more Nissan products with the same issue. But amazing to hear that you got a normal amount of mileage out of your brakes. I really do appreciate the comment, I know that many Automotive manufacturers use many different vendors for all sorts of different stuff but you are 100% right it is the manufacturer's fault for not having all of these vendors talk lol. As for the torque I use a stupid program called shopkey which if you've ever used it you will know how ridiculous it can be. Generally it is a pain in the ass to find the specs and unfortunately they are wrong from time to time but this is a specification that I got for the application that I had but thank you for the information. I'm glad you found the video entertaining. Check out some of my other videos and don't forget to hit that subscribe button.
Thank you unfortunately my friend I don't know. What you can do is ask the dealership. Most times there's not much of a change so I would assume it is the same however I'm not 100% sure.
Great video! I changed the rear pads on my QX60 at about 40K but did not replace the rotors - big mistake! Approx 5K on the new pads and they’ve developed a horrible grinding noise at very low speed. The disks also look like the ones you just replaced. Shocked that they are so corroded with mileage of less than 50K. Looks like I’ll have to do a full replacement now (pads and rotors).
I noticed that a lot of Manufacturers are getting cheaper with regards to the material they are using for brakes. I had a Volkswagen with less than 30,000 km that was in way worse shape. I'm kind of surprised at the results I'm seeing in the market. Good luck thanks for watching.
Is there anyway without a scan tool to do the rear brakes on an Infinity QX50 2020? Thanks. Just wondering if there was a certain sequence for the E Brake switch in the vehicle to back the breakout to do the rear brakes.
Some manufacturers early on did have certain sequences you could follow in order to put it in service mode however I am unaware of any with regards to the infinity and most newer Vehicles unfortunately do require a scan tool. The good news is a lot of relatively cheap scan tools are available on the market that do that service however it can be a nightmare sometimes finding the right one that might work for you. Yeah unfortunately cars are getting overly complicated for no real good reason and this is the result. Good luck my friend.
@@JimmysAutoClinic Got ya. Thanks I appreciate the reply. I guess I’ll check out some scan tools and go from there. They sure don’t want people working on their own shit anymore huh? 🤝
You did not change the brake fluid. I would argue you should do this at the same time as long as you can break the bleed(s) open. Otherwise, a very good video and i smiled at a few of your jokes. I will post my rotor comments after I do the brakes this weekend. At 52,000 miles with the OEM pads and rotors, I bought high end aftermarket replacements and was suppressed to see the OEM products be so cheap. Again, nice job on this video.
Hey my friend. Thank you for the compliment. The reason why we did not bleed the brakes is specifically because this is the least vehicle and the customer did not want to spend any more money than needed to perform any repairs on the vehicle. Just the bare minimum is what he wanted because he was already pretty irritated that he had to do breaks so early on.
Will be performing front brake replacement on this vehicle in a week.......it has a indicator on the computer that informed customer that brakes were getting low ....do I need to reset this service notification message?
Unfortunately my vehicle did not have a indicator. So I'm not sure if it actually needs to be reset or not. Most times indicators for braking systems don't need to be reset and are a replaceable brake pad wear sensor like the german-style wear sensors that just pop into place. And of course once you connect the new one it resets the system or break the circuit which takes away the light. But it may need to be reset and if it does you can definitely find that information out through the dealership by using the VIN number. I hope this helps you out. Good luck with the brake job.
@@JimmysAutoClinic Im a former mechanic who does this on the side......help out those who can't afford the rising shop rates......and I have access to service bulletins, etc so that the job can get done right.....thank you for your advice----always appreciated!!!👍👍👍
Great video with great detail on how things should be done while servicing and replacing brakes and rotors !! I'm at that point to replace my rear rotors and pads!! Obviously Ceramic pads and coated rotors will be purchased!! But brand wise , what do you recommend?
Hey Nic thank you so much for the comment. Most coded rotors that I purchase are generally just a Chinese brand they go by many different names such as Geotech but they're basically all the same. The rotors are decent quality and the coating is a full coating which is good. Make sure whatever rotary you get it is fully coated a lot of the quote on quote coated rotors only coat the top hat and the exterior of the brake rotor which will still cause it to rust premature. So as long as they're fully coated you should be okay in terms of pads if you're in the states I used to use Bendix all the time they were fairly good but I haven't used them in quite a long time if you're not in the states and you're in Canada Bosch pads are what I use and none of my customers have had any complaints. There are many other good brands but the Bosch stuff is what we use and we are happy with it. And if you're going to purchase brake grease. Don't get the clean flow stuff it stinks. I used to use the Bendix but they stopped selling it here in Canada and unfortunately I don't have much Intel on any other brake greases but as long as it is fully synthetic brake Grease with a high temperature reading you should be good to go. Good luck my friend
@@JimmysAutoClinic Thanks for getting back to me, ill definitely take your recommendations for Bosch pads !! Now you opened a can of worms when it comes to lubricants lol I was told not to use that purple Silicone lubricant on any sliding pins for the calipers ! But use the Kleen clear synthetic lubricant and only use the purple lubricant for the pads and caliper hardware as you did in the video !!
I've been using the synthetic brake grease on the sliders for quite a while. Usually they don't really dry up past 4 to 5-year mark realistically it doesn't matter what color as long as you use something that is designated as brake Grease you should be good to go. I hope everything goes well with the replacement. If you have any questions you feel free to reach out.
I drive a 2017 Infiniti Q60 S coupe, 31,000 miles. My Infiniti dealer just quoted me $650 to lubricate my four calipers. The brakes have developed a small squeak. Is that a good price?
So the pricing really depends on two factors. The location you are in and what the general rate of Labor is per hour in your area. In the Toronto region most premium dealerships are up at around $175 an hour. Generally if you're just lubricating the calipers at the very most you would be charged an hour per axle so 2 hours in total. So in my opinion of course without knowing the price I feel that it's a bit high. Of course if you are in the Toronto area I wouldn't mind helping you out.
Sorry my friend. If you can send me a timestamp maybe I can take a look but this car is gone back to the dealership and I don't know what the story is with it now. But the customer has a new Infiniti.
Okay so I just assumed it was the front rotors that was causing the vibration on my qx60 is there a way to be sure of that? Within 1000 miles I've replaced the front pads also. Back pads no so now it's really got me wondering 😔 sigh
Yes there are ways to check. Are you feeling the vibration when you step on the brakes only? Also when you feel the vibration is your steering wheel shaking? The best way to check would be to put the vehicle on a hoist pull the wheels off make sure the rotors are clamped down securely to the hub and then perform what is called a runout test with a dial gauge.
@@JimmysAutoClinic It's my ole' lady's car and I am by no means a mechanic so I doubt I could do the gauge test lol. I have driven the car once and I'm at work now I might have to drive again this evening to verify. She said " I feel it more in the steering than in the pedal or seat, but it doesn't visibly move but you can feel it". From when I drove it that I remember also.
Now is the vibration happening when the brakes are applied only or is it happening constantly. It sounds like you may have potentially a unbalanced rim and tire. But there are many things that can cause an annoying vibration. The best thing that's going to help me help you is telling me exactly when it happens how you can recreate it and if it started occurring after a repair or alteration to the car was done
It sounds like you have warped rotors. Most likely though if the rotors are of good quality and have been replaced recently I would make sure to go over everything so that you know there's no dirt or crap in between the rotor and the Hub. That can also cause this sort of situation. Or you can take it to a local mechanic for them to do a run out test. And if you bought the parts from a reputable parts store you should be able to claim warranty for the rotors and replace them.
As an ex mechanic, and a Nissan hater, I fuckin love your brutal honesty. Cussing out engineers, calling a piece of shit a piece of shit, etc, etc. I love it !! Keep up the the good work !! Nissan = JUNK.
Great video. Very informative. Love the added comedy 👍🏻
Thank you very much for nice job❤
Thank you for the awesome video
Glad you enjoyed it :-).
Very informative and enjoyed your vid. 👍🏼
Thank you for the comment :-).
Just did mine thnks to this video, mine had 98k miles and the rotors were not like this and yes it had the original ones nissan
Wow that's amazing. I've been seeing more and more videos online about people talking specifically about Nissan and other manufacturers in their brake pads wearing out really quickly. I think there's something going on but I'm glad you had some good mileage out of your brakes.
Excellent. Thanks.
Well as an owner of a 2019 QX60 with 84k kilometres, I can confirm that the original front brakes are still there, but I will be replacing soon as the inner pads are down to 4mm thickness. Interesting is that I already replaced the rear pads and rotors at 52k kilometres, these cars have a rear bias for braking to minimize front end dive in city stop & go driving. So many cars are set up this same way.
I live in SW Ontario with all the salt and sand that nobody really wants for 5 months per year. I do Krown every 18 months, we'll see how it holds up.
To the design of the Nissan rear brakes, yes this is not optimum but other brands have their own special designs that would provoke you to swear, but I think you enjoy this form of colourful expression? VW Passat, Ford Flex being my own experience with stuck wind-back caliper pistons despite careful lubrications. I worked in the metal stampings area of the Automotive Industry for most of my career, I can tell you that very few OEM design their own braking systems. They buy from Tier 1 vendors that offer complete systems that include all 4 corners with integration of ABS/AWD/Traction Control/Autonomous Braking etc. That the suspension system vendor and the brake system vendor didn't meet to prevent problems is 100% Nissans fault. Start your swearing.
BTW, the torque for the front caliper bracket bolts is 92 foot pounds, but 107 is okayish because you slather on all that copper antisieze. Fun video.
I'm amazed that you got that much because I'm seeing more Nissan products with the same issue. But amazing to hear that you got a normal amount of mileage out of your brakes. I really do appreciate the comment, I know that many Automotive manufacturers use many different vendors for all sorts of different stuff but you are 100% right it is the manufacturer's fault for not having all of these vendors talk lol. As for the torque I use a stupid program called shopkey which if you've ever used it you will know how ridiculous it can be. Generally it is a pain in the ass to find the specs and unfortunately they are wrong from time to time but this is a specification that I got for the application that I had but thank you for the information. I'm glad you found the video entertaining. Check out some of my other videos and don't forget to hit that subscribe button.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 I understand your frustration. I'm in the same predicament
Great job,-- Question,, would this be the same for a 2020 QX 60 3.5 Lux as well?
Thank you unfortunately my friend I don't know. What you can do is ask the dealership. Most times there's not much of a change so I would assume it is the same however I'm not 100% sure.
lmaooo last few mins are golden lol Great vid
Great video! I changed the rear pads on my QX60 at about 40K but did not replace the rotors - big mistake! Approx 5K on the new pads and they’ve developed a horrible grinding noise at very low speed. The disks also look like the ones you just replaced. Shocked that they are so corroded with mileage of less than 50K. Looks like I’ll have to do a full replacement now (pads and rotors).
I noticed that a lot of Manufacturers are getting cheaper with regards to the material they are using for brakes. I had a Volkswagen with less than 30,000 km that was in way worse shape. I'm kind of surprised at the results I'm seeing in the market. Good luck thanks for watching.
What are the best brand of brake pads and rotors for a 2019 Infiniti Qx60
Hey my friend, generally what I recommend is Akibono rotors and pads. I also use Bosch pads quite a bit they are really good as well.
Is there anyway without a scan tool to do the rear brakes on an Infinity QX50 2020? Thanks. Just wondering if there was a certain sequence for the E Brake switch in the vehicle to back the breakout to do the rear brakes.
Some manufacturers early on did have certain sequences you could follow in order to put it in service mode however I am unaware of any with regards to the infinity and most newer Vehicles unfortunately do require a scan tool. The good news is a lot of relatively cheap scan tools are available on the market that do that service however it can be a nightmare sometimes finding the right one that might work for you. Yeah unfortunately cars are getting overly complicated for no real good reason and this is the result. Good luck my friend.
@@JimmysAutoClinic Got ya. Thanks I appreciate the reply. I guess I’ll check out some scan tools and go from there. They sure don’t want people working on their own shit anymore huh? 🤝
You did not change the brake fluid. I would argue you should do this at the same time as long as you can break the bleed(s) open. Otherwise, a very good video and i smiled at a few of your jokes.
I will post my rotor comments after I do the brakes this weekend. At 52,000 miles with the OEM pads and rotors, I bought high end aftermarket replacements and was suppressed to see the OEM products be so cheap. Again, nice job on this video.
Hey my friend. Thank you for the compliment. The reason why we did not bleed the brakes is specifically because this is the least vehicle and the customer did not want to spend any more money than needed to perform any repairs on the vehicle. Just the bare minimum is what he wanted because he was already pretty irritated that he had to do breaks so early on.
LOL---great job!
Will be performing front brake replacement on this vehicle in a week.......it has a indicator on the computer that informed customer that brakes were getting low ....do I need to reset this service notification message?
Unfortunately my vehicle did not have a indicator. So I'm not sure if it actually needs to be reset or not. Most times indicators for braking systems don't need to be reset and are a replaceable brake pad wear sensor like the german-style wear sensors that just pop into place. And of course once you connect the new one it resets the system or break the circuit which takes away the light. But it may need to be reset and if it does you can definitely find that information out through the dealership by using the VIN number. I hope this helps you out. Good luck with the brake job.
@@JimmysAutoClinic Im a former mechanic who does this on the side......help out those who can't afford the rising shop rates......and I have access to service bulletins, etc so that the job can get done right.....thank you for your advice----always appreciated!!!👍👍👍
Great video with great detail on how things should be done while servicing and replacing brakes and rotors !!
I'm at that point to replace my rear rotors and pads!!
Obviously Ceramic pads and coated rotors will be purchased!!
But brand wise , what do you recommend?
Hey Nic thank you so much for the comment. Most coded rotors that I purchase are generally just a Chinese brand they go by many different names such as Geotech but they're basically all the same. The rotors are decent quality and the coating is a full coating which is good. Make sure whatever rotary you get it is fully coated a lot of the quote on quote coated rotors only coat the top hat and the exterior of the brake rotor which will still cause it to rust premature. So as long as they're fully coated you should be okay in terms of pads if you're in the states I used to use Bendix all the time they were fairly good but I haven't used them in quite a long time if you're not in the states and you're in Canada Bosch pads are what I use and none of my customers have had any complaints. There are many other good brands but the Bosch stuff is what we use and we are happy with it. And if you're going to purchase brake grease. Don't get the clean flow stuff it stinks. I used to use the Bendix but they stopped selling it here in Canada and unfortunately I don't have much Intel on any other brake greases but as long as it is fully synthetic brake Grease with a high temperature reading you should be good to go. Good luck my friend
@@JimmysAutoClinic
Thanks for getting back to me, ill definitely take your recommendations for Bosch pads !!
Now you opened a can of worms when it comes to lubricants lol
I was told not to use that purple Silicone lubricant on any sliding pins for the calipers !
But use the Kleen clear synthetic lubricant and only use the purple lubricant for the pads and caliper hardware as you did in the video !!
I've been using the synthetic brake grease on the sliders for quite a while. Usually they don't really dry up past 4 to 5-year mark realistically it doesn't matter what color as long as you use something that is designated as brake Grease you should be good to go. I hope everything goes well with the replacement. If you have any questions you feel free to reach out.
I drive a 2017 Infiniti Q60 S coupe, 31,000 miles. My Infiniti dealer just quoted me $650 to lubricate my four calipers. The brakes have developed a small squeak. Is that a good price?
So the pricing really depends on two factors. The location you are in and what the general rate of Labor is per hour in your area. In the Toronto region most premium dealerships are up at around $175 an hour. Generally if you're just lubricating the calipers at the very most you would be charged an hour per axle so 2 hours in total. So in my opinion of course without knowing the price I feel that it's a bit high. Of course if you are in the Toronto area I wouldn't mind helping you out.
@@JimmysAutoClinic ... Thank you! Buffalo, N.Y.
What about the cracked rear strut support on the drivers side
Sorry my friend. If you can send me a timestamp maybe I can take a look but this car is gone back to the dealership and I don't know what the story is with it now. But the customer has a new Infiniti.
Okay so I just assumed it was the front rotors that was causing the vibration on my qx60 is there a way to be sure of that? Within 1000 miles I've replaced the front pads also. Back pads no so now it's really got me wondering 😔 sigh
Yes there are ways to check. Are you feeling the vibration when you step on the brakes only? Also when you feel the vibration is your steering wheel shaking? The best way to check would be to put the vehicle on a hoist pull the wheels off make sure the rotors are clamped down securely to the hub and then perform what is called a runout test with a dial gauge.
@@JimmysAutoClinic It's my ole' lady's car and I am by no means a mechanic so I doubt I could do the gauge test lol. I have driven the car once and I'm at work now I might have to drive again this evening to verify. She said " I feel it more in the steering than in the pedal or seat, but it doesn't visibly move but you can feel it". From when I drove it that I remember also.
Now is the vibration happening when the brakes are applied only or is it happening constantly. It sounds like you may have potentially a unbalanced rim and tire. But there are many things that can cause an annoying vibration. The best thing that's going to help me help you is telling me exactly when it happens how you can recreate it and if it started occurring after a repair or alteration to the car was done
@@JimmysAutoClinic its when the brakes are hit, and it is felt more when trying slow down fast from high speeds.
It sounds like you have warped rotors. Most likely though if the rotors are of good quality and have been replaced recently I would make sure to go over everything so that you know there's no dirt or crap in between the rotor and the Hub. That can also cause this sort of situation. Or you can take it to a local mechanic for them to do a run out test. And if you bought the parts from a reputable parts store you should be able to claim warranty for the rotors and replace them.