Fantastic breakdown and images! I manage a rental house and was trying to explain to a client last week what the difference between the Proii and ProiiD when they specifically asked for the D when they didn't need a digital back. After I asked if she was planning on using a digital back, she had no clue what that was or why someone would ever want to use it. Word for word her response was "why would someone want to shoot digital on a film camera?" after I explained what it was. That gave me a good laugh. As a sidenote, I have seen a massive increase in people requesting the GFX Fujis lately. Larger format digital on the rise!
Great video! Here is a tip I have learned for using leaf shutters with digital backs, that should work with the RZ as well I think: One option for shooting with the leaf shutter (for instance if you need to sync with a flash) is to set the IQ4 electronic shutter to a very long exposure (such as several seconds), and then firing the shutter of the RZ normally, as if a film back was mounted. Since the leaf shutter is closed before and after exposure, the long exposure on the digital back will have no effect on exposure, as long as the RZ shutter time is shorter than the E-shutter of the digital back. A workflow would look like: 1) start a longer E-shutter exposure from the digital back (for instance 5 seconds) 2) quickly fire the RZ shutter (for instance 1/400s) before the E-shutter finishes 3) the digital back will capture a (5) second exposure, but it will only have been exposed to light for (1/400s), so it will match the exposure set on the RZ instead of on the digital back. The consequence is that the EXIF data will be wrong for shutter speed unfortunately. But on the pro side, you can then use the leaf shutter for flash or to avoid a rolling shutter effect. Hope this helps!
Indeed Oscar, this will work well here! Great option if you wanna go for the leaf shutter, as you said, for avoiding rolling shutter effects or for flash sync. I will include this comment in the infobox below the video, thanks for sharing with the community.
The sharpness is dependent on using the ring to adjust the floating element. The lens is focused with the rack and pinion and then you transfer the information from the focussing rack onto the focus ring on the lens. The floating element flattens the focus field of the lens.
Hi Christopher, this information is very important which i never understood correctly. But before I ask you, I think the 50mm lens used in this video has not floating element. Could you please confirm? Thank you so much.
Thank you so very much Matt for again letting me vicariously experience your photographic adventures. You showed absolutely amazing details, especially in your panorama stitched images at the end. I admire you.
This is the first time I see an IQ4 in an RZ. I may go down that route for mine, trying patiently to find the adapters. As I have an IQ4, I have exactly the same issue and will have to use the procedure you describe. Re the Mamiya lenses, the performance of the 75 is remarkable. I have a 50 shift (in their 6x4.5 range) and it resolves very well in the Leica S2 but is somewhat wanting with the S3. Some Mamiya lenses are definitely not as good as their Leica or Schneider counterparts. If I remember well, Phase got updated versions of some of their Blue Ring lenses when they launched the IQ4, probably for the same reason. Very useful video!
I've got the exact same setup, but with an older IQ180. For viewfinder focus, I use the "E" focusing screen with a clear 645 frame overlay. The "E" screen is rare as hens' teeth to find on eBay. But it has 3 focus aids: the standard matte, a prism outer circle, and a horizontal rangefinder inner circle. Once the rangefinder circle shows alignment, you know the focus is dead on. I find that the RZ67 lenses can easily resolve up to the limits of the IQ180. I'm glad to see that they are also holding up at 150MP as well. The large (film) image circle of these lenses means the 645 sensor is sitting in the sweet spot, with practically no falloff.
Ditto! I have the IQ180 on my RZ as well. Are you using the Mamiya HX701 adapter? I'm still looking for an affordable one (like not $2,000 bucks!) For the time being I'm making do with a cheap LensMod adapter.
@@torrolfjohansen Yes, I’m using the 701 and it works perfectly. It’s like the IQ180 and the 701 were made for each other. Prices on the 701 are unreal nowadays.
The ULD 50mm is the best lens I ever used on GFX 50s. It is tack sharp wide open, even with 12mm shift using Hartblei RBZ-S adapter. It can be achieved by Floating System adjustment. I think it is impossible to correct it visually, but the pixel peaking plus zooming tool on digital screen make it perfectly (controlling the red dots saturation in the corners). The image circle of this lens is about 100 mm allowing to stitch the 57x84mm sensor size image. At 20 mm shift one should shoot at f11 to ensure the sharp corners.
The Mamiya had some really top shelf glass at the time. The very best were its APO lenses. The Mamiya Telephoto 210mm f/4.5 APO Lens for the RZ series was the top one IIRC. I hope you can find a good example and test it as it should be superb.
You can actually use the Pro ii with digital backs also with the cable connecting the back to the lens and it fact the shutter is way more responsive with the non-D model. The D has an inherent shutter lag causing you to miss the moment you actually wanted.
You keep amazing me (us) with your "Dr. Frankenstein" setups. Totally LOVE it. Now at 20:50 you do a manual focus. Just a moment before you see the green focus peeking lighting but when you focus and the magnification jumps in you don't see the focus peeking lighting up anymore (since you moved focus back and forth crossing the in focus area on the face). Is that normal ?? Anyways , loved the video. Thanks for sharing. Have a great weekend !!!
And please check out the comment from "Oscar B" which I included now in the infobox below the video, he pointed out a great way to shoot this combo with leaf shutter instead with e-shutter on the IQ4. I included it in the infobox now so that people can easier find Oscar's suggestion - which works in my opinion. Maybe I will even demonstrate this in a subsequent video.
I have the RZ67 Proii D as well with the old P+65 back. I was also told by Phase One it was not possible to use the new backs, but you have literally changed everything for me. Thank you so much👍
IS the IQ4 connected via the 701 plate? if so then is the IQ4 Hassleblad V fit?? I have the proud and the 701plate with a p65+ looking to upgrade but I'm not sure which back will still fit the 701 plate. thanks in advance
What a shame that there isn't solid integration between the camera and back. How much compensation do you need to do with a back that's closer to the 6x4.5 format than the 6x7 of the RZ?
Thanks for the detailed review of the RZ. I was wondering if you, or anyone else in the comment section, know whether or not an adapter for the 110mm f/2.8 to work on an RB67. Regarding the 50mm lens, I have always had issues with mine on the RB67 with sharpness on the edges.
Digital backs Leaf 80 Credo, Leaf Aptus - II an Mamiya ZD can directly connect to Mamiya 67RZIID without any additional parts of gear no has to need any adapters
I love this video. Spent years looking around for old systems to digitise with backs. I use a GFX100S for all of my commercial/fast paced work but am longing for a slower paced high quality beast. This setup looks very promising. Thanks for sharing!
So to properly use a digital back with the HX701 adapter and RZ67 Pro IID one needs an IQ3, 2, or 1. I suppose the IQ3 100MP would be best for this then, although the IQ1 100MP or IQ3 80MP (if one prefers CCD sensors) would also be good choices.
Yes indeed - the new platform of the IQ4 does no longer natively support the RZ67 Pro IID although, as demonstrated in the video, you can nevertheless combine and shoot them.
You should try using CaptureOne to observe Phase One's true RAW images. They designed their own software to process their RAW images best. Lightroom does not show the full potential and sharpness compared to Capture One's RAW processing engine, my friend.
@@mathphotographer ah I see, it would be great to see how it turns out if you’re showing the images are processed on CaptureOne instead of LR in this video.
I need to pass ... not getting my hands on these at this point in time, sorry. But the Mamiya 110mm f/2.8 review will come, we have this lens here in the studio. What likely will also come in the course of the year is shooting Mamiya 645 lenses on the Fuji GFX cameras :)
I have the Mamiya 50mm f/4.5 ULD, and I use it on a GFX100s with the Cambo Actus. My experience is that the lens needs to be stopped down to f/8 for good sharpness in the central two-thirds of the frame, and f/11 for good sharpness to the corners and when shifted. Are you correctly setting the floating element to the focal distance, as this could account for the poor performance you are seeing? Otherwise, I would have to conclude that you have a bad copy of the lens, as mine is far sharper. The GFX100s has the same pixel pitch as the IQ4, so my findings should be relevant.
Thank you very much. I did set the FLE to the right setting so maybe I have a not so optimal unit here ... let's see, I will go out and shoot the lens again. Thanks for sharing your experience, much appreciated.
The lens is already tack sharp in the corners if wide open and unshifted.I managed to stitch 12mm shifted images shot wide open, each time adjusting the sharpness in the corners using pixel peaking with zooming tool. One should correctly adjust the floating system ring until the red dots are saturated.
Hi Matt, Thanks for great review. Can you test your Mamaiya kit with your Hasselblad 50c ii back , as is more affordable for us poorer photographer😀. I was thinking using Silvestri adapter with my Mamaiya RZ67 proII (not ProD) which you have to use a cable to connect the back to lens.The Mamaiya adapter just cost too much. Thank You
Where do you post your pictures? I always see you with the most top notched equipment but you only show the results on the video, don't you have an Instagram or something similar???
I separate my photography business from UA-cam ... YT is fun, business is business. Maybe some time in the future I connect the two. I sell photo prints exclusively in my network of clients and this is a discrete business for wealthy lovers of photography :) I am intentionally not on IG, TikTok or other platforms at this point in time. Might change in the future but for now I am ok with the status quo. Its the network to clients that generates income, not social media.
@@gusatvoschiavon Thank you very much, I highly value and appreciate your interest in my work. As said, I might show more in the future and even connect YT with my other activities when the time is right :)
Yes - I still use this setup, actually I use my digital backs on various classic cameras. I might come up with another video in the course of the year on this topic.
Yes you can with the correct adapter which will need some small modification. You will also need to use synch cables in order to synch the lens shutter with the digital back. For sure it works with up to IQ 1 series backs. I do not know if is also possible with IQ 2 series and above. Also Leaf Aptus and Mamiya Leaf backs can be used
Yes , you can adapt RZ for digital backs. In fact RZ is very versatile because it will (with apporopriate adapters) take Hasselblad V mount as well as Mamiya 645 (M Mount) backs. I use phase one P25 (V mount) on my RZ body, There are hundreds of those in second hand markets. Just look on ebay , prices range from 200 to 400 pounds, let me know if you need to know more.
Correct - the GFX cameras get the same job done with similar quality and an easier workflow but with a smaller sensor and in some shooting scenes this can matter :)
A normal 50mm lens for the RB or RZ 67 is a difficult lens . The 65 mm KL or the ML is much better . Try to find the ULD 50mm for the RZ 67 and test it first . They say it is a improved 50mm suoer wideangle lens for the RZ 67 . This ULD 50mm sadly never came for the RB 67 ,,,,,,
@@rotfai45mm you write "Try to find the ULD 50mm for the RZ 67 and test it first ." He found this particular lens and tested it on RZ 67 as well. What is your point with RB 67 then?
As ever, and out of respect for your tenacity, I watched your video from end-to-end. I use RZ67 glass on my FF Nikon Z7ii but for what? At least for three years and for random stuff: eg, a bug on a leaf, or a panorama. Just like that, in a few seconds of twisting a ring. So who cares about uncropped MF? And meanwhile we have a stacked cmos coming out (maybe) on eg the Nikon Z8? What the hell..! It’s a rabbit hole, that no doubt, you as an independent, professional photographer (who needs to match clients’ expectations though consistency, productivity and reliability)…you needn’t go down! But you may or indeed have? There’s loads more out there. Perhaps try Soviet MF glass…or projector lenses. Or just two bladed trash glass. It’s all fun and maybe less HCB and more Julia Margaret Cameron?
Thinking about your message, I was asking the question you suggest, which is "Why?" shooting exotic lenses or using exotic gear if with a Nikon Z9 and the available Nikkor-Z lenses you can get any photographic job done without the flavor of "exotic equipment". I think this is a justified question and I understand why you raise that question. So I thought about it and here is my short conclusion what drives me personally to try these combos out: there is strong curiosity inside myself, trying out new things. There is fascination by older lenses like the Mamiya 75mm you saw in the video and fascination by older film cameras like the Mamiya RZ67 or the Hasselblad 500 series. There is technical interest to get it to work. And a desire to understand how it works. And yes, it might look like a waste of time and resources but there also comes deep satisfaction with it and the positive flow if you get it to work. I can only speak for myself but these are the drivers and the motivation behind it :)
You purchase the IQ4 typically together with a Phase One camera body, either the XF or the XT body. The bundle (without lens) is about USD 50k if your purchase it new. If you go for 2nd hand it is much more affordable.
Fantastic breakdown and images! I manage a rental house and was trying to explain to a client last week what the difference between the Proii and ProiiD when they specifically asked for the D when they didn't need a digital back. After I asked if she was planning on using a digital back, she had no clue what that was or why someone would ever want to use it. Word for word her response was "why would someone want to shoot digital on a film camera?" after I explained what it was. That gave me a good laugh.
As a sidenote, I have seen a massive increase in people requesting the GFX Fujis lately. Larger format digital on the rise!
Great video! Here is a tip I have learned for using leaf shutters with digital backs, that should work with the RZ as well I think:
One option for shooting with the leaf shutter (for instance if you need to sync with a flash) is to set the IQ4 electronic shutter to a very long exposure (such as several seconds), and then firing the shutter of the RZ normally, as if a film back was mounted. Since the leaf shutter is closed before and after exposure, the long exposure on the digital back will have no effect on exposure, as long as the RZ shutter time is shorter than the E-shutter of the digital back. A workflow would look like:
1) start a longer E-shutter exposure from the digital back (for instance 5 seconds)
2) quickly fire the RZ shutter (for instance 1/400s) before the E-shutter finishes
3) the digital back will capture a (5) second exposure, but it will only have been exposed to light for (1/400s), so it will match the exposure set on the RZ instead of on the digital back.
The consequence is that the EXIF data will be wrong for shutter speed unfortunately. But on the pro side, you can then use the leaf shutter for flash or to avoid a rolling shutter effect.
Hope this helps!
Great! Many thanks!
Indeed Oscar, this will work well here! Great option if you wanna go for the leaf shutter, as you said, for avoiding rolling shutter effects or for flash sync. I will include this comment in the infobox below the video, thanks for sharing with the community.
So photography smart, you must be related to Oskar Barnack with a small change in name hehehehe
Thank you so much. I owned a RZ in 1984, this bought back some wonderful memories.
Glad to hear that the video resonates :)
The sharpness is dependent on using the ring to adjust the floating element. The lens is focused with the rack and pinion and then you transfer the information from the focussing rack onto the focus ring on the lens. The floating element flattens the focus field of the lens.
Hi Christopher, this information is very important which i never understood correctly. But before I ask you, I think the 50mm lens used in this video has not floating element. Could you please confirm? Thank you so much.
@@estudio_peso Both the 50mm and the 75mm are floating versions visible at 21:34 and forward.
Thank you so very much Matt for again letting me vicariously experience your photographic adventures. You showed absolutely amazing details, especially in your panorama stitched images at the end. I admire you.
Thanks Barry, your kind words make my day
This is the first time I see an IQ4 in an RZ. I may go down that route for mine, trying patiently to find the adapters. As I have an IQ4, I have exactly the same issue and will have to use the procedure you describe. Re the Mamiya lenses, the performance of the 75 is remarkable. I have a 50 shift (in their 6x4.5 range) and it resolves very well in the Leica S2 but is somewhat wanting with the S3. Some Mamiya lenses are definitely not as good as their Leica or Schneider counterparts. If I remember well, Phase got updated versions of some of their Blue Ring lenses when they launched the IQ4, probably for the same reason. Very useful video!
Hi are the lenses usable on rb67 and vice versa,and are the film backs interchangeable between the systems.
I've got the exact same setup, but with an older IQ180. For viewfinder focus, I use the "E" focusing screen with a clear 645 frame overlay. The "E" screen is rare as hens' teeth to find on eBay. But it has 3 focus aids: the standard matte, a prism outer circle, and a horizontal rangefinder inner circle. Once the rangefinder circle shows alignment, you know the focus is dead on. I find that the RZ67 lenses can easily resolve up to the limits of the IQ180. I'm glad to see that they are also holding up at 150MP as well. The large (film) image circle of these lenses means the 645 sensor is sitting in the sweet spot, with practically no falloff.
Ditto! I have the IQ180 on my RZ as well. Are you using the Mamiya HX701 adapter? I'm still looking for an affordable one (like not $2,000 bucks!) For the time being I'm making do with a cheap LensMod adapter.
@@torrolfjohansen Yes, I’m using the 701 and it works perfectly. It’s like the IQ180 and the 701 were made for each other. Prices on the 701 are unreal nowadays.
would this fit on the 645E?i read for others like 645 AFD Pro it fit..but I dont know why it not fit on the 645E..
The ULD 50mm is the best lens I ever used on GFX 50s. It is tack sharp wide open, even with 12mm shift using Hartblei RBZ-S adapter. It can be achieved by Floating System adjustment. I think it is impossible to correct it visually, but the pixel peaking plus zooming tool on digital screen make it perfectly (controlling the red dots saturation in the corners).
The image circle of this lens is about 100 mm allowing to stitch the 57x84mm sensor size image. At 20 mm shift one should shoot at f11 to ensure the sharp corners.
Great work!
Wonderful, very informative video. Thank you so much!
The Mamiya had some really top shelf glass at the time. The very best were its APO lenses. The Mamiya Telephoto 210mm f/4.5 APO Lens for the RZ series was the top one IIRC. I hope you can find a good example and test it as it should be superb.
Thanks - will watch out for it :)
You can actually use the Pro ii with digital backs also with the cable connecting the back to the lens and it fact the shutter is way more responsive with the non-D model. The D has an inherent shutter lag causing you to miss the moment you actually wanted.
Thanks for sharing, Peter, appreciated.
do you need an adapter plate or just the back and the cable?
@@isiahwarren_707 you need an adapter, most likely. I even think you need one o IID
@@isiahwarren_707 you need the adapter plate also
@@isiahwarren_707 no neef an adapter plate on Leaf Credo and Aptus
Lots of fancy toys to play around with! Great video.
You keep amazing me (us) with your "Dr. Frankenstein" setups.
Totally LOVE it.
Now at 20:50 you do a manual focus.
Just a moment before you see the green focus peeking lighting but when you focus and the magnification jumps in you don't see the focus peeking lighting up anymore (since you moved focus back and forth crossing the in focus area on the face).
Is that normal ??
Anyways , loved the video.
Thanks for sharing.
Have a great weekend !!!
Thanks RS - this combo is sometimes laggy :)
Have a happy weekend too :)
And please check out the comment from "Oscar B" which I included now in the infobox below the video, he pointed out a great way to shoot this combo with leaf shutter instead with e-shutter on the IQ4. I included it in the infobox now so that people can easier find Oscar's suggestion - which works in my opinion. Maybe I will even demonstrate this in a subsequent video.
@@mathphotographer Must be related to Oskar Barnack, he had some smart ideas too ;-)
I have the RZ67 Proii D as well with the old P+65 back. I was also told by Phase One it was not possible to use the new backs, but you have literally changed everything for me. Thank you so much👍
You are very welcome :)
Adapters are available new from the UK. Also works with non D if One can find the right cable.
The first brand new "RZ67 Mod. 1" had massive film overlapping problems! The new RZ 67 Mod. 1 was impossible to use properly!
IS the IQ4 connected via the 701 plate? if so then is the IQ4 Hassleblad V fit?? I have the proud and the 701plate with a p65+ looking to upgrade but I'm not sure which back will still fit the 701 plate. thanks in advance
what adapter you use to attach the back?would that fit on the 645E?i cant find a lot on this except that it works with 645Pro and some Hasselblatts..
What a shame that there isn't solid integration between the camera and back.
How much compensation do you need to do with a back that's closer to the 6x4.5 format than the 6x7 of the RZ?
Thanks for the detailed review of the RZ. I was wondering if you, or anyone else in the comment section, know whether or not an adapter for the 110mm f/2.8 to work on an RB67. Regarding the 50mm lens, I have always had issues with mine on the RB67 with sharpness on the edges.
Thanks for posting the question, hopefully someone can comment. I have no experience with the RB67 at this point in time.
The RB67 50mm is a different optical design to the RZ67 50mm ULD version.
@@Bayonet1809 right. I only mentioned it because of the question he raised in the video regarding sharpness.
The 110 isn’t compatible with the RB cause it has electronic shutter control, there’s no way to adapt RZ lenses to RB bodys
Could it work if you use the Novoflex clamp for keeping the aperture always open?
The clamp (made by Hartblei and used by Novoflex) is rather for the stopping down of aperture while the shutter is cocked.
Digital backs Leaf 80 Credo, Leaf Aptus - II an Mamiya ZD can directly connect to Mamiya 67RZIID without any additional parts of gear no has to need any adapters
Nice job, please let me know when you get to shoot with the 110 mm thanks for sharing
I love this video. Spent years looking around for old systems to digitise with backs. I use a GFX100S for all of my commercial/fast paced work but am longing for a slower paced high quality beast. This setup looks very promising. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for this! Do you know what other backs that can use the full sensor size while shooting on this body?
So to properly use a digital back with the HX701 adapter and RZ67 Pro IID one needs an IQ3, 2, or 1. I suppose the IQ3 100MP would be best for this then, although the IQ1 100MP or IQ3 80MP (if one prefers CCD sensors) would also be good choices.
Yes indeed - the new platform of the IQ4 does no longer natively support the RZ67 Pro IID although, as demonstrated in the video, you can nevertheless combine and shoot them.
Leaf Credo 80 and Aptus-II and Mamiya ZD backs can work without this adapter plate HX701, would't them?
so technically this could work with the RZ67 and RZ67 II right?
I have access to digital back. Just need the adaptator for the rz67 pro II. Any help to get one? What prices?? Merci
Great stuff! Congrats! Similar to mine, except 2 little things I have made myself..
Hi,
Will the adapter works for RB67 pro SD?
You should try using CaptureOne to observe Phase One's true RAW images. They designed their own software to process their RAW images best. Lightroom does not show the full potential and sharpness compared to Capture One's RAW processing engine, my friend.
Agree - I actually use CO23 most of the time for my Phase One images.
And also for my GFX images frequently ...
@@mathphotographer ah I see, it would be great to see how it turns out if you’re showing the images are processed on CaptureOne instead of LR in this video.
Thank you so much for the detail in this video.
Glad it was helpful!
Odd - was looking to pick up a Mamiya Sekor Z 75 mm f/3.5 L lens, but they are really hard to find... why is that?
Does it exist? To my knowledge there is the only Mamiya 75/3.5 from K/L series for RB cameras. With floating system.
Spanned, mich würde der Vergleich zu dem normalen Blau Ring Objektiven interessieren.
I would be interested in your views on the Mamiya RZ67 75mm f/4.5W Shift, and their APO telephoto lenses if you ever get hold of any of them.
I need to pass ... not getting my hands on these at this point in time, sorry. But the Mamiya 110mm f/2.8 review will come, we have this lens here in the studio. What likely will also come in the course of the year is shooting Mamiya 645 lenses on the Fuji GFX cameras :)
@@mathphotographer i would Love to see the 110mm video when ready, thanks.
What is the exact difference in the D Version? Don't the digital backs also work with the normal rz67?
they do. I have a IQ250 with a RZ Pro.
I have the Mamiya 50mm f/4.5 ULD, and I use it on a GFX100s with the Cambo Actus. My experience is that the lens needs to be stopped down to f/8 for good sharpness in the central two-thirds of the frame, and f/11 for good sharpness to the corners and when shifted. Are you correctly setting the floating element to the focal distance, as this could account for the poor performance you are seeing? Otherwise, I would have to conclude that you have a bad copy of the lens, as mine is far sharper. The GFX100s has the same pixel pitch as the IQ4, so my findings should be relevant.
Thank you very much. I did set the FLE to the right setting so maybe I have a not so optimal unit here ... let's see, I will go out and shoot the lens again. Thanks for sharing your experience, much appreciated.
Is the blue ring the Floating Elements you mention?@@mathphotographer
The lens is already tack sharp in the corners if wide open and unshifted.I managed to stitch 12mm shifted images shot wide open, each time adjusting the sharpness in the corners using pixel peaking with zooming tool. One should correctly adjust the floating system ring until the red dots are saturated.
今から40年以上前、二十歳代に
マガジン2台
レンズ4本で使っていました
懐かしいです
このカメラと伴にあちらこちらと旅行をしました
It is a look back in history :) And a still very much enjoyable camera these days!
Hi Matt, Thanks for great review. Can you test your Mamaiya kit with your Hasselblad 50c ii back , as is more affordable for us poorer photographer😀. I was thinking using Silvestri adapter with my Mamaiya RZ67 proII (not ProD) which you have to use a cable to connect the back to lens.The Mamaiya adapter just cost too much.
Thank You
Happy to look into it, thanks Tony.
With RZ Pro and Pro II , you still need a sync cable between lens and back. The fixed cable from adapter goes into the front port of RZ body.
Where do you post your pictures? I always see you with the most top notched equipment but you only show the results on the video, don't you have an Instagram or something similar???
I separate my photography business from UA-cam ... YT is fun, business is business. Maybe some time in the future I connect the two. I sell photo prints exclusively in my network of clients and this is a discrete business for wealthy lovers of photography :) I am intentionally not on IG, TikTok or other platforms at this point in time. Might change in the future but for now I am ok with the status quo. Its the network to clients that generates income, not social media.
@@mathphotographer i just wanted to see more of your work
@@gusatvoschiavon Thank you very much, I highly value and appreciate your interest in my work. As said, I might show more in the future and even connect YT with my other activities when the time is right :)
Are you still using this setup? Do you have anymore thoughts on it?
Yes - I still use this setup, actually I use my digital backs on various classic cameras. I might come up with another video in the course of the year on this topic.
@@mathphotographer Interesting. I was looking into it, but the shutter solutions are less than ideal for me. Thanks for the informative video!
Any idea if/how it works with the normal RZ Pro I?
it does.
Hi
I own the regular RZ not the D version, can I still use it with your configuration?
Not sure and have not tried ... the "D" stands for "digital" and means the obvious, namely that it works fine with digital backs.
Yes you can with the correct adapter which will need some small modification. You will also need to use synch cables in order to synch the lens shutter with the digital back. For sure it works with up to IQ 1 series backs. I do not know if is also possible with IQ 2 series and above. Also Leaf Aptus and Mamiya Leaf backs can be used
Wow, I wasn't aware that the mamiya rz67 had a digital back compatible version.
Here it is :)
They all do - you just need adapters and cables
@@pdiseris not for all - Aptus and Credo no need any adapter plates. Cheers from Siberiya
I have a Mamiya RZ67 kit. Can someone please let me know if I can use it with a digital back? If yes, what plate do I need to get?
Yes , you can adapt RZ for digital backs. In fact RZ is very versatile because it will (with apporopriate adapters) take Hasselblad V mount as well as Mamiya 645 (M Mount) backs.
I use phase one P25 (V mount) on my RZ body, There are hundreds of those in second hand markets. Just look on ebay , prices range from 200 to 400 pounds, let me know if you need to know more.
@@telepost2250 Thanks so much.
Beautiful Pepsi! :-)
:)
YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!
THANK YOU.
Great pano pictures but you can
Do the same with a fuji gfx 100.
More easy to use and cheaper
Correct - the GFX cameras get the same job done with similar quality and an easier workflow but with a smaller sensor and in some shooting scenes this can matter :)
I think my 907x might need a companion
Ha! :)
A normal 50mm lens for the RB or RZ 67 is a difficult lens . The 65 mm KL or the ML is much better . Try to find the ULD 50mm for the RZ 67 and test it first . They say it is a improved 50mm suoer wideangle lens for the RZ 67 . This ULD 50mm sadly never came for the RB 67 ,,,,,,
Thanks for sharing!
Did you watch this video before the writing this comment? I can clearly see the ULD 50mm there.
@@skr2345 Yep , do you see that the 50mm ULD is on the RZ67 ? RZ67 lenses will not fit on a RB67
@@rotfai45mm you write "Try to find the ULD 50mm for the RZ 67 and test it first ." He found this particular lens and tested it on RZ 67 as well. What is your point with RB 67 then?
Can't you read English ? I wrote that This ULD 50mm sadly never came for the RB67 .....
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Thank you very much!
As ever, and out of respect for your tenacity, I watched your video from end-to-end.
I use RZ67 glass on my FF Nikon Z7ii but for what? At least for three years and for random stuff: eg, a bug on a leaf, or a panorama. Just like that, in a few seconds of twisting a ring. So who cares about uncropped MF? And meanwhile we have a stacked cmos coming out (maybe) on eg the Nikon Z8? What the hell..!
It’s a rabbit hole, that no doubt, you as an independent, professional photographer (who needs to match clients’ expectations though consistency, productivity and reliability)…you needn’t go down!
But you may or indeed have?
There’s loads more out there. Perhaps try Soviet MF glass…or projector lenses. Or just two bladed trash glass. It’s all fun and maybe less HCB and more Julia Margaret Cameron?
Thanks Stephen, clear message :)
Thinking about your message, I was asking the question you suggest, which is "Why?" shooting exotic lenses or using exotic gear if with a Nikon Z9 and the available Nikkor-Z lenses you can get any photographic job done without the flavor of "exotic equipment". I think this is a justified question and I understand why you raise that question. So I thought about it and here is my short conclusion what drives me personally to try these combos out: there is strong curiosity inside myself, trying out new things. There is fascination by older lenses like the Mamiya 75mm you saw in the video and fascination by older film cameras like the Mamiya RZ67 or the Hasselblad 500 series. There is technical interest to get it to work. And a desire to understand how it works. And yes, it might look like a waste of time and resources but there also comes deep satisfaction with it and the positive flow if you get it to work. I can only speak for myself but these are the drivers and the motivation behind it :)
It's unbelievable how phase one can blunder this function on the iq4. Absolutely disgusting.
How much cost the digital back?? 🫢
You purchase the IQ4 typically together with a Phase One camera body, either the XF or the XT body. The bundle (without lens) is about USD 50k if your purchase it new. If you go for 2nd hand it is much more affordable.
@@mathphotographer 😱