one tip, the M_up and T modes have to be de-activated using the methods given in the manual, esp. the 90 mm lens for the RB and other RZ lenses, as the gears are interconnected, so if you 'trip' the lens wrong, you can possibly break something. three procedures exist, 1) to pull the winding lever; 2) to take the shutter speed dial off t or b, 3) to unscrew the cable release from the lens [RED line on sleeve covered up], or flip the switch off T back to N normal. the RZ and the RB 90mm later version lenses NEED the 3rd process, using any of the others can damage the mechanics, as they are designed differently.
that 'cog wheel' is a port for the motor drive to connect to, this screws on to the base like a 35 mm slr motor winder, this gear is to run the film winder from, the shutter is dealt with by some contacts under another cover.
Hey just stumbled across your channel. I own an RZ Pro2 although it hasn't been used for a few years now. Used to assist a few photographers back in the day and was in an environment where I saw a lot of photographers and their equipment. The RZ was a choice for a great many, huge medium format neg size, could be handheld and was by a lot of male and female photographers. It was a solid built camera with excellent lens for the price. Hiring lenses etc was never an issue. Noted photographers that I have meet, worked with or seen their negatives. RANKIN, Phil Poynter, MERT and MARCUS, Vincent Peters, Liz Collins, Sean Ellis etc, etc.
Shot the RB67 for years in my portrait studio. I am retired now and shoot landscapes with a Hasselblad 503. I do miss the bellows focusing of the Mamiya it is great for getting in close.
The door with the little cog on the bottom is for connecting a motor drive, these used to be the most rented by professionals camera so i guess if you're taking half a dozen packs of 5 winding on is a drag
that red dot on the shutter, is also to disengauge the electrics, to install an RB lens, using it's mechanical shutter controls, ie like the "non_cpu lens data" setting on dslr's to say to the computer/chips that NO lens data is to be expected ( hence no RED led's in the warning display (lens not attached warning)); you CAN use RB lenses on this camera, but not RZ lenses on an RB camera ( lens on RB has mechanical shutter controls on the lens, the RZ has electric controls (mechanical "firing", but the timing is electronic, in the body).
On a snowbird trip in the motorhome to Tucson this past winter I came across a fantastic camera shop called Monument Camera. Being a film photographer most of my life I love the old film cameras and have quite a collection but had never even held a RB or RZ 67. Monument camera had a RZ 67 Pro II in like new condition and could not resist it after trying it out. I used the camera on our trip but definitely still in learning mode. Back home now, looking for insight, and your video is the best I have seen in thoroughness and accuracy. Thanks! Also nice work with Budda / Buddas.
When you push the cable release you are starting a chain reaction ! First you are baying a longer lens - after a shorter lens - after a 6x7 film holder - after another film holder - a bigger backpack - a heavier tripod - a station wagon . Oh - and a new 6x9 enlarger bicouse somebody just sent you 6x9 folding Ikonta .🙂
Peter you are not even trying. He will def need the SB T/S lenses - for portraits nothing touches them. Then a Winder II - then a grip - then the the Prizm II - then the 180 Diamond - for portraits nothing can touch this other than see above. You will need the bellows hood. You will need a spare body for the occasional 'it can only be fixed at home with a hammer' lock ups; and if you have not even begun to consider the 500APO you can't call yourself an RZ user - I sold mine after doing around 500 or so weddings - (with a couple of F90X's from Nikon as 'candids' over my shoulder) - Our RZ's had over 10K rolls of film through them and my one top tip (actually for ANY 120 user) is have not one but two elastic bands around your wrist - as when you take the exposed film out and the wind blows away the little sticky tab......happened to me - I held onto that sucker for an hour and managed to continue shooting..... The RZ was only ever bettered in quality by the Fuji GX680III and if you like me thought that was a good idea then you like me are wrong - the RZ was far more useable in the field/location etc, was sweeter and far more beautiful as an object - it just looks right. Regrets? - of course - Going digital -is one of them - the Fuji GFX50s is a joyous and wondrous thing - but it leaves me cold - have fun all - stay safe.
@@nelsonclub7722 Unfortunately sometimes my hard trying end up stupid. ( Trade in RB system for a Rollei 6006 - big mistake - realized only after a tonn of assesory +++ ) Now I am going back from easy great digital to ridiculous stone ages . Latest purchase -24in red dot ARTAR and an insulated ice fishing tent ( living in Tennessee , and the two items very logically need each other's )🙂 I was close to get the Fuji GX 680 ll bicouse now it's dirt cheap - but thankfully I give up.
Of all my cameras I get the highest ratio of "keepers" out of my RB67. Such a great system and nice lenses. Razor sharp but the defocused areas melt away into nice bokeh. Looking forward to seeing your work with the RZ.
Having shot one pre digital age. I can tell you this cameras and lens kit is incredible. Nothing like it today. I shoot a Hassleblad 503 now but I sure miss the close focusing bellows system in the big Mamiyas.
There is a slot behind the darkslide slot and this is where you can store your dark slide during an long exposure so you don’t lose it- but remember to put it back in its original slot when you’ve finished the long exposure!
the OM10 is a great camera. I had one to try out. It didn't have the attachment for manual shutter speeds so I had to use it in Auto. Soon after I purchased the OM20 which has manual shutter speeds built in.
I remember thinking when I saw your post about getting this camera that you don't like reading manuals to start with... and I remember doing the same when I got my RB67 and quickly getting completely flumoxed lol. Glad to see you're enjoying it, its a wonderful bit of kit if its anything like the RB. Stay safe
Fantastic video, and I absolutely love the photo of the broken Buddha! An important part of Buddhism is the idea of "impermanence" (everything is temporary--even us!), and I feel like that statue breaking again was the perfect example of that. :) Thanks for the great vid!
The RZ and the earlier RB 67 are phenomenal examples of elegance and simplicity. Once one gets over being intimidated by the size of the camera, the rest is a matter of practice...and more practice. Having said that, the camera is simple...the real work is done by the photographer who must know light, lighting, chemistry, timing and a myriad other tasks in order to get results. I salute you on your work and if you ever want to get rid of one of the Buddha photos, please let me know...you can send it to me. I'd be happy to hang that on my wall. Yeah, film photography takes work, the equipment can be cumbersome and time consuming, but the results are so very much worth the effort.
Roger, there is a 6x6 rz67 back available. Not very common but there's always a few floating around on ebay. 6x7 negs are a pain in the dick to store and proof, you need special 6x7 neg sleeves and you can only contact print 9 frames on standard 8x10/8.5x11.5 paper. Something to consider when choosing format, the 6x6 backs are pricey for the rz but the upfront cost brings easy neg handling afterwards.
Just watched your video for the second time I’ve also got a Mamiya RZ11 when you buy a 645 or a 6x6 Back you get a masking frames to fit on the ground glass screens in the view finder the little cog under the camera is when you fit a power winder to fit on the camera my advise don’t buy one the camera is big and heavy enough without extra clutter. Otherwise a good camera if you have a wheelbarrow to carry it.🤣🤣
I'm using a double cable release. First the huge mirror will flap, and then the shutter opens and closes. So no camera shake will happen and finally it's very comfortable. Enjoy your RZ67!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss It's one cable release with two adjustable connections. When I push the cable release the first wire will fire the mirror, and about half a second later the shutter will be activated. I use it nearly for all my shoots on a tripod.
1. This workhorse has a huge mirror, so it shakes when mounted on tripod - mirror lockup is the way to go ;) Interestingly, it is so well balanced, that when shooting handheld, that mirror slap seems to be absorbed - I managed to do 1/15s handheld a couple of times without problems :O 2. If you're having problems with framing on 645 back, focusing screen has three little thingies to slide thin mask there (0.2-0.3mm - there are modeling PP sheets of that thickness - cut it to size, and draw framing with a sharpie :P)
Roger , as a diehard Mamiya man I'am pleased to see that you are happy with your RZ 67 . I can give you one tip , don't use old RB 67 Mamiya Sekor C lenses on your RZ 67 . The shutter spring for cocking these lenses is to strong for use on a RZ 67 and RB 67 Pro SD . The front shutter cocking gear in the RZ 67 and RB 67 Pro SD is made from nylon . The front cocking gear from the RB 67 Pro and Pro S is heavy duty made from metal . So if you use the heavy cocking old RB 67 Mamiya Sekor C lenses on your RZ 67 the front nylon cocking gear will wear out a lot sooner . Mamiya Sekor C lenses with a light cocking spring and RB 67 KL / APO lenses are safe to use on your RZ 67 and RB 67 Pro SD . Peter .
As a long-time RZ user please let me offer some guidance . Cable release in the lens is really for mirror lock up during long exposures in TIMED mode. See page 33 of the manual. You’ll see that when you screw the cable release into the lens that you can continue to turn it a bit further and it will raise up from the lens. Also, as someone else stated, you may have had your cable release’s “auto lock” on. When the cable release is functioning without locking the shutter should have closed. You should not have to switch back from “T” to “N” on the lens when using an unlocked cable release. The instructions in the manual that talk about moving this switch are referring to when you are no longer using the TIMED setting NOT as a way to close the shutter when taking timed exposures. Unfortunately, the way it reads in the manual I can see how you got that impression. The RZ system is my all-time favorite. I’ve lugged it around Italy and the results were worth the weight. And, Mamiya’s dual cable release for this camera is worth every penny for mirror-lock-up simplicity when doing timed exposures.
Thanks. It says to close the shutter slide the T lever in the opposite direction. I've tried it with cable release lock on and off and the only way I can close the shutter is to slide the T lever back. It opens and closes on selected shutter speeds but not in Bulb mode. I can't get it to close in Bulb mode without pressing the T lever. Is that right?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss It literally says in the manual "To close the shutter, slide the T Lever in the opposite direction, exposing the letter ‘N’ (normal).." like you say. I have always done it that way on my ProII. I'd love to know how to get the shutter to close otherwise.
andrewford80 I was playing around yesterday and like you I have always pressed the T mode button to close the shutter. I found another way which is by cocking the shutter with the lever in the side. I noticed thought that if you look at the aperture blades the widen ever so slightly before closing. Try it out.
I apologize and I stand corrected. When I saw your reply this morning I got out the camera, shutter release, etc. and attempted to confirm my statement. And, I was wrong. Again, my apologies. Guess I should've checked before I sent out the comment in the middle of the night because I couldn't sleep. So to correct my previous statement. If you leave the lens in "N" and have your cable release in so that the orange ring shows around the cable release port on the lens and the camera is in "B" mode THEN the shutter will stay open as long as you are holding the cable release button down (which is when the lock obviously comes in handy if you're shooting timed exposures). But in that case you get the beep once it's held open for a certain length of time as you'd pointed out. I was wrong in my reading of the manual because I was relying on memory. I should've pulled out the camera and verified my statement before sending it. Once I tried it out again this morning I realized that was the feature about my Beloved RZ that always annoyed me. I'm sorry and I feel like an idiot for not checking before commenting. Love your channel and I again humbly apologize.
You lucky bugger roger loool. I’ve got a rz67 proii. I tip I have found is used 4sr44 batteries. 4LR44 batteries don’t last as long. Also take the battery out of camera when not using it. It’s really a amazing camera. More suited for project work or “take your time photography” I wish someone could gift me a 65mm lens. I should my 50mm to purchase a 65mm l-a and now I can’t find one anywhere in the Uk 🙈😭 Enjoy the camera.
Shoot Film Like a Boss all good. I’ve had my rz67 for 4 years I didn’t know you don’t need a battery for T mode long exposure. 🤯. This is going to be perfect for cold nights. Cheers
Just sold my one to go all digital again due to health but that camera is probably the best I’ll ever own. Awesome lenses and changing backs is ver useful, you can compare different stocks. I’d definitely get a 67 back though.
What a beautiful camera I know you been using it a lot I am watching it in Oct 21 looks like a awesome piece of equipment at this time I am saving for an ETRS maybe one day I can stretch to one enjoy 😉
Roger, thanks for the enjoyable video. The blue ring on the lens is not exactly for zone focussing - it adjusts a "floating element" within the lens which adjusts the position of the element to optimise focussing for the distance which you have already set using the bellows. Not all the RZ lenses have this feature. I often forget to adjust it on my RZ, and I'm not certain that I can tell the difference.
Thanks Kevin. It appears to have no mechanical function, it just freely rotates and rotates with no resistance or feeling of it moving any parts inside the lens. In the Manual they call it a Lens Distance Scale (manual says) " indicating the furthest and nearest limits of sharpness for the aperture" I'm all open for suggestions as the more comments I read the more I find out something new. What lens of yours has that function?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Roger, when I wrote the comment I believed that m 110mm/f2.8 lens had the floating element; after doing lots of reading it turns out it doesn't ... apparently those lenses that have the floating element are likely to have "L-A" in the name.
great information!! Dear I am behind a Mamiya but I have a lot of doubts between one of the RB or RZ series, some guys insists on the fragility of the electronic system and the imminent risk of break with surely no reparing option and therefore, they conclude, the best option is the mechanical system RB What do you think dear? I know both systems have theys own fragilities but I need an experienced opinion please
to Time expose, there is one cheat in the manual, that is to "stop", you push the cocking lever 1/2 a cm forwards, this taps the pins, and closes the leaves, a work around on the RB, should still work on the RZ, as this still has mechanical triggering and cocking. Also a WARNING, doing the M_UP mode, ie: cable into the lens, this mode is ALWAYS active, UNLESS the cable is removed, the sleive is CABLE operated, NOT via the turning knob, like the RB lenses, so you can't instinctively see the mode is active ( dot pointing adjacent to the M on the lens, instead of N-normal mode), this RZ system has a red line on the collar, harder to see easily if the m_up mode is on; this tip is ESPECIALLY important when dealing with polaroid holders, as you NEVER release the film, UNLESS you are 100% sure the SHUTTER has gone off, as this noise is primarily mirror slap, so to hear the click, of the shutter triggering is hard so if you do this film type, use the cable, and then you are sure "bombs gone" when you press it!!, so you don't waste a $7.50 / sheet film stock, ie: as you 'ejected' an unexposed sheet!!
Wow this was very interesting and informative also now I seriously wanna build meself a darkroom and learn how to develop my own film thank you for sharing your amazing hard work with us all and now you’ve gotten a new subscriber and huge fan of your work. Oh yeah I live in the United States in New Orleans
Thank you Roger!!! This video made my day. Great opening sequence! I really enjoyed your honest comment about how you don't read instruction manuals. Hopefully you won't be making a cameo appearance as a bomb expert in Mission Impossible 4
It's so awesome that your fans support you by sending you photo gear. If I ever get to upgrade my tripod I'll have to send you my manfrotto. That velbon looks janky af :)
Watch the gapping on the film with back (they are all pretty old now).......... if you advance the film rapidly it can have an effect on the gap between frames... and if you take the ground glass screen out make sure you put it back correctly like what I didnt, on a job, many years ago, (all out of focus shots cause a bit of dissapointment)
It's RZ SIX SEVEN Not sixty seven. When doing long exposures with the cable release in the lens it's not necessary to shift the lens selector back to normal between exposures. I noticed as you did the demo here the cable release auto lock kept the shutter open. Pop the lock off and the shutter will close, no need to fiddle with the lens selector. Cog on the bottom is for power driven backs. Also, the viewfinder bars become useless as a guide when using 6x45 back, you can buy a dedicated mask that fits in the viewfinder.
Thanks again Tom. No matter how I tried I can't get the shutter to close in Bulb mode even with the cable release lock off. All other speeds it will open and close as timed, but not in Bulb mode. Am I missing a trick here?
Lol, I think I need to read the manual too! I still have my RZ but it's been a paperweight for many years now, mu memory of it's operation must be a bit jaded! These days I use the Fuji Gx680III for the odd roll of film I shoot. The method I described only works in 'N' mode so you didn't miss a trick, I did. As you say in 'T' mode the pin on the selector slider needs to be depressed after the long exposure to close the shutter. A point worth noting and I think i am correct on this one is. Once the T' mode is selected it doesn't matter what shutter speed the speed dial is set on, it is irrelevant as the electronic shutter control is disengaged. ie it doesn't even need to be set on Bulb mode. Apologies for leading you up the garden path!! One point worth remembering is. When in mirror up mode, as you know you screw the clable release into the lens socket. When you do so the collar the release screws into rises up out of the lens body to reveal a red line. if you don't see the red line clearly, the mirror up function may not work correctly. IMPORTANT, when you remove the cable release the socket should sink back down into the lens body. If it doesn't go back all the way so you can no longer see the red line, the mirror up function isn't disengaged properly and the shutter may not fire for subsequent exposures. If this happens screw the release back in, and as you unscrew it again, wiggle it about to assist the collar sinking back down. 999 times out of 1000 this doesn't happen, but the odd time it does. If memory serves me correctly this procedure is actually described in the manual. it strikes me as a bit odd that this is so, I suspect this minor niggle was discovered after lens production had started and is a quirk of design in the mechanicals inside the lens. Fear not!! It's a rare occurrence, but to avoid confusion it's best to adopt a check-it and see each time you use the mirror up function, just in case. One other point, when on shutter speeds 30th -1sec/ish I always always used mirror up. The mirror vibration on this camera is significant ad as you know affects shutter durations in that range, more so on this camera. it's even worse on the Fuji 680, like clashing an oven door,lol. Happy shooting, mate.
Good stuff. Read the manual please. I broke my Pentax 67 not knowing that to remove the metering prism the lens had to come off first. Well, it still works but I have lost the TTL metering. Those who have this camera know what I am talking about. Poor design and stupid way of actuating the aperture lever but that is what it is. Enjoy the camera.
Awesome video of a fantastic camera. I own one and prefer it by far to a Hasselblad 500. Would have loved to see a shot of the Buddha together with broken one, sort of what it was and how it ended. Continue with your superb videos, please :-)
I've been considering getting one but the price (and the idiosyncratic way it works for certain things) makes me second guess. Regardless I love the results you got from it
I have a 645 back but no 645 mask. I have not tried it yet. How do you compose without the mask? Do you have a technique. The pictures came out perfectly composed especially your daughter’s shot.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I'm thinking about going on a 6x6 back. I know that's probably your favourite framing, but I think a 6x7 back would allow allow you to crop the photo in the darkroom anyway and let you save time and money in the meantime, but not frames... (in my opinion btw) 👍
Epic intro anthem music for an epic camera!!! I like it!! :-) Awesome machine!! So.... Emma's been relegated to the back seat if the car now has she?? :-D
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss ok. so i've done a bit of research. the RB is completely mechanical. no batteries required or electronics to fail. the RB is heavier because the body is more robust and durable. it does have electronic attachments like auto film backs and such. i think i am going to buy an RB Pro-SD if i can find a kit with a wide angle for a good price. have a good day! :D
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I imagined indeed :D think that a durst M800 is perfect for you. You can print up to 6x9 (with the right condenser). Or if you want to invest on a dream...durst laborator ❤️
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss fair enough then, when you said 1/400 I just thought "no shallow depth of field in the day".... just checked online, medium format film camera are getting very expensive, actually most of the film cameras that pop on UA-cam more frequently are 😭
oh my Buddha, this made me laugh so much when he finished breaking the buddha....It seems that he should meditate more often....lol, great video though.
Pls do a video compering the different dilutions of rodinal (1:50, 1:75, 1:100)
Holy hell, that’s a nice gift!
The guys really gotta like you!
That’s not a cheap camera.
That intro was spiritual!
one tip, the M_up and T modes have to be de-activated using the methods given in the manual, esp. the 90 mm lens for the RB and other RZ lenses, as the gears are interconnected, so if you 'trip' the lens wrong, you can possibly break something.
three procedures exist, 1) to pull the winding lever; 2) to take the shutter speed dial off t or b, 3) to unscrew the cable release from the lens [RED line on sleeve covered up], or flip the switch off T back to N normal. the RZ and the RB 90mm later version lenses NEED the 3rd process, using any of the others can damage the mechanics, as they are designed differently.
that 'cog wheel' is a port for the motor drive to connect to, this screws on to the base like a 35 mm slr motor winder, this gear is to run the film winder from, the shutter is dealt with by some contacts under another cover.
Hey just stumbled across your channel. I own an RZ Pro2 although it hasn't been used for a few years now. Used to assist a few photographers back in the day and was in an environment where I saw a lot of photographers and their equipment. The RZ was a choice for a great many, huge medium format neg size, could be handheld and was by a lot of male and female photographers. It was a solid built camera with excellent lens for the price. Hiring lenses etc was never an issue. Noted photographers that I have meet, worked with or seen their negatives. RANKIN, Phil Poynter, MERT and MARCUS, Vincent Peters, Liz Collins, Sean Ellis etc, etc.
Shot the RB67 for years in my portrait studio. I am retired now and shoot landscapes with a Hasselblad 503. I do miss the bellows focusing of the Mamiya it is great for getting in close.
six, seven not sixtyseven, the cog on the bottom is for an auto prowinder system.
The door with the little cog on the bottom is for connecting a motor drive, these used to be the most rented by professionals camera so i guess if you're taking half a dozen packs of 5 winding on is a drag
that red dot on the shutter, is also to disengauge the electrics, to install an RB lens, using it's mechanical shutter controls, ie like the "non_cpu lens data" setting on dslr's to say to the computer/chips that NO lens data is to be expected ( hence no RED led's in the warning display (lens not attached warning)); you CAN use RB lenses on this camera, but not RZ lenses on an RB camera ( lens on RB has mechanical shutter controls on the lens, the RZ has electric controls (mechanical "firing", but the timing is electronic, in the body).
Just when I thought I'm done watching SFLB videos, you pull me back in !🎞️📸😃
On a snowbird trip in the motorhome to Tucson this past winter I came across a fantastic camera shop called Monument Camera. Being a film photographer most of my life I love the old film cameras and have quite a collection but had never even held a RB or RZ 67. Monument camera had a RZ 67 Pro II in like new condition and could not resist it after trying it out. I used the camera on our trip but definitely still in learning mode. Back home now, looking for insight, and your video is the best I have seen in thoroughness and accuracy. Thanks! Also nice work with Budda / Buddas.
Awesome! You'll get used to it.
When you push the cable release you are starting a chain reaction !
First you are baying a longer lens - after a shorter lens - after a 6x7 film holder - after another film holder - a bigger backpack - a heavier tripod - a station wagon .
Oh - and a new 6x9 enlarger bicouse somebody just sent you 6x9 folding Ikonta .🙂
That's Classical GAS!! :-D
ha ha Sounds like fun!
Peter you are not even trying. He will def need the SB T/S lenses - for portraits nothing touches them. Then a Winder II - then a grip - then the the Prizm II - then the 180 Diamond - for portraits nothing can touch this other than see above.
You will need the bellows hood.
You will need a spare body for the occasional 'it can only be fixed at home with a hammer' lock ups; and if you have not even begun to consider the 500APO you can't call yourself an RZ user - I sold mine after doing around 500 or so weddings - (with a couple of F90X's from Nikon as 'candids' over my shoulder) - Our RZ's had over 10K rolls of film through them and my one top tip (actually for ANY 120 user) is have not one but two elastic bands around your wrist - as when you take the exposed film out and the wind blows away the little sticky tab......happened to me - I held onto that sucker for an hour and managed to continue shooting..... The RZ was only ever bettered in quality by the Fuji GX680III and if you like me thought that was a good idea then you like me are wrong - the RZ was far more useable in the field/location etc, was sweeter and far more beautiful as an object - it just looks right. Regrets? - of course - Going digital -is one of them - the Fuji GFX50s is a joyous and wondrous thing - but it leaves me cold - have fun all - stay safe.
@@nelsonclub7722 Unfortunately sometimes my hard trying end up stupid.
( Trade in RB system for a Rollei 6006 - big mistake - realized only after a tonn of assesory +++ )
Now I am going back from easy great digital to ridiculous stone ages .
Latest purchase -24in red dot ARTAR and an insulated ice fishing tent ( living in Tennessee , and the two items very logically need each other's )🙂
I was close to get the Fuji GX 680 ll bicouse now it's dirt cheap - but thankfully I give up.
Thanks for the info on the long exposure methods. I never knew this!
Of all my cameras I get the highest ratio of "keepers" out of my RB67. Such a great system and nice lenses. Razor sharp but the defocused areas melt away into nice bokeh. Looking forward to seeing your work with the RZ.
Having shot one pre digital age. I can tell you this cameras and lens kit is incredible. Nothing like it today. I shoot a Hassleblad 503 now but I sure miss the close focusing bellows system in the big Mamiyas.
I'm enjoying it Terry,
Good walk around the camera. I just sold my RB67 and do love the 67 series but got my hands on a Pentax 6x7 now and much more suited.
Good day Roger. This is a lovely story. Kudos to you and your wonderful friend who presented you with the RZ67. Very gratifying.
There is a slot behind the darkslide slot and this is where you can store your dark slide during an long exposure so you don’t lose it- but remember to put it back in its original slot when you’ve finished the long exposure!
Ahh yeah. Found it. Thanks. I'm up and down like a yoyo reading these comments.
Started watching the channel to decide whether I should buy an Olympus OM10 and now I’m hooked
the OM10 is a great camera. I had one to try out. It didn't have the attachment for manual shutter speeds so I had to use it in Auto. Soon after I purchased the OM20 which has manual shutter speeds built in.
I remember thinking when I saw your post about getting this camera that you don't like reading manuals to start with... and I remember doing the same when I got my RB67 and quickly getting completely flumoxed lol.
Glad to see you're enjoying it, its a wonderful bit of kit if its anything like the RB.
Stay safe
The best medium format camera also RB67 PRO S incomparable,magnific,highly quality,love it!!!!!!!!
Fantastic video, and I absolutely love the photo of the broken Buddha! An important part of Buddhism is the idea of "impermanence" (everything is temporary--even us!), and I feel like that statue breaking again was the perfect example of that. :) Thanks for the great vid!
Thanks. I still have it in the darkroom. And the other in the lightroom!
The RZ and the earlier RB 67 are phenomenal examples of elegance and simplicity. Once one gets over being intimidated by the size of the camera, the rest is a matter of practice...and more practice. Having said that, the camera is simple...the real work is done by the photographer who must know light, lighting, chemistry, timing and a myriad other tasks in order to get results. I salute you on your work and if you ever want to get rid of one of the Buddha photos, please let me know...you can send it to me. I'd be happy to hang that on my wall.
Yeah, film photography takes work, the equipment can be cumbersome and time consuming, but the results are so very much worth the effort.
Roger, there is a 6x6 rz67 back available. Not very common but there's always a few floating around on ebay. 6x7 negs are a pain in the dick to store and proof, you need special 6x7 neg sleeves and you can only contact print 9 frames on standard 8x10/8.5x11.5 paper. Something to consider when choosing format, the 6x6 backs are pricey for the rz but the upfront cost brings easy neg handling afterwards.
Just watched your video for the second time I’ve also got a Mamiya RZ11 when you buy a 645 or a 6x6 Back you get a masking frames to fit on the ground glass screens in the view finder the little cog under the camera is when you fit a power winder to fit on the camera my advise don’t buy one the camera is big and heavy enough without extra clutter.
Otherwise a good camera if you have a wheelbarrow to carry it.🤣🤣
I'm using a double cable release. First the huge mirror will flap, and then the shutter opens and closes. So no camera shake will happen and finally it's very comfortable. Enjoy your RZ67!
So you have two cables in for long exposures?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss It's one cable release with two adjustable connections.
When I push the cable release the first wire will fire the mirror, and about half a second later the shutter will be activated. I use it nearly for all my shoots on a tripod.
1. This workhorse has a huge mirror, so it shakes when mounted on tripod - mirror lockup is the way to go ;) Interestingly, it is so well balanced, that when shooting handheld, that mirror slap seems to be absorbed - I managed to do 1/15s handheld a couple of times without problems :O
2. If you're having problems with framing on 645 back, focusing screen has three little thingies to slide thin mask there (0.2-0.3mm - there are modeling PP sheets of that thickness - cut it to size, and draw framing with a sharpie :P)
Thanks for that Konrad.
Roger's going to start wearing Carhaart and sporting a beanie next... only joking! Great video as always!
Had the google that. Ha ha
11.40. Pretty sure that's where the detachable motor drive engages with the film advance mechanism.
Ahhhh that makes sense. I thought it may have been for oiling the gears or something.
Your going to love the 6x7 size negative for seascapes :)
Well worth getting the 6X6 back and the grid insert for 6X4.5 & 6X6 frame lines. You can also use RB lenses and film backs (with adapter)
Thanks. The 6x6 back seems to be far more than 67, bizarre
Cool! I have a mamiya 645 that I really love. They make really great cameras!
very helpful. thanks. can you do a video explaining pull and push film? It confuses me and I would like to try out.
Boss as always the best3👍
Roger , as a diehard Mamiya man I'am pleased to see that you are happy with your RZ 67 . I can give you one tip , don't use old RB 67 Mamiya Sekor C lenses on your RZ 67 . The shutter spring for cocking these lenses is to strong for use on a RZ 67 and RB 67 Pro SD . The front shutter cocking gear in the RZ 67 and RB 67 Pro SD is made from nylon . The front cocking gear from the RB 67 Pro and Pro S is heavy duty made from metal .
So if you use the heavy cocking old RB 67 Mamiya Sekor C lenses on your RZ 67 the front nylon cocking gear will wear out a lot sooner . Mamiya Sekor C lenses with a light cocking spring and RB 67 KL / APO lenses are safe to use on your RZ 67 and RB 67 Pro SD . Peter .
Thanks for the tip Peter. Appreciated.
As a long-time RZ user please let me offer some guidance . Cable release in the lens is really for mirror lock up during long exposures in TIMED mode. See page 33 of the manual. You’ll see that when you screw the cable release into the lens that you can continue to turn it a bit further and it will raise up from the lens. Also, as someone else stated, you may have had your cable release’s “auto lock” on. When the cable release is functioning without locking the shutter should have closed. You should not have to switch back from “T” to “N” on the lens when using an unlocked cable release. The instructions in the manual that talk about moving this switch are referring to when you are no longer using the TIMED setting NOT as a way to close the shutter when taking timed exposures. Unfortunately, the way it reads in the manual I can see how you got that impression. The RZ system is my all-time favorite. I’ve lugged it around Italy and the results were worth the weight. And, Mamiya’s dual cable release for this camera is worth every penny for mirror-lock-up simplicity when doing timed exposures.
Thanks. It says to close the shutter slide the T lever in the opposite direction. I've tried it with cable release lock on and off and the only way I can close the shutter is to slide the T lever back. It opens and closes on selected shutter speeds but not in Bulb mode. I can't get it to close in Bulb mode without pressing the T lever. Is that right?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Its a beautiful camera that I used throughout my career since 1987....... probably the best camera I've owned.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss It literally says in the manual "To close the shutter, slide the T Lever in the
opposite direction, exposing the letter ‘N’ (normal).." like you say. I have always done it that way on my ProII. I'd love to know how to get the shutter to close otherwise.
andrewford80 I was playing around yesterday and like you I have always pressed the T mode button to close the shutter. I found another way which is by cocking the shutter with the lever in the side. I noticed thought that if you look at the aperture blades the widen ever so slightly before closing. Try it out.
I apologize and I stand corrected. When I saw your reply this morning I got out the camera, shutter release, etc. and attempted to confirm my statement. And, I was wrong. Again, my apologies. Guess I should've checked before I sent out the comment in the middle of the night because I couldn't sleep.
So to correct my previous statement. If you leave the lens in "N" and have your cable release in so that the orange ring shows around the cable release port on the lens and the camera is in "B" mode THEN the shutter will stay open as long as you are holding the cable release button down (which is when the lock obviously comes in handy if you're shooting timed exposures). But in that case you get the beep once it's held open for a certain length of time as you'd pointed out.
I was wrong in my reading of the manual because I was relying on memory. I should've pulled out the camera and verified my statement before sending it. Once I tried it out again this morning I realized that was the feature about my Beloved RZ that always annoyed me. I'm sorry and I feel like an idiot for not checking before commenting.
Love your channel and I again humbly apologize.
The hidden cog on the bottom is for a motorwind if you are feeling particularly lazy! 😊
Lol..you beat me to it, was about to say the same.
Ohh I didn’t know that!- thanks
You lucky bugger roger loool. I’ve got a rz67 proii. I tip I have found is used 4sr44 batteries. 4LR44 batteries don’t last as long. Also take the battery out of camera when not using it.
It’s really a amazing camera. More suited for project work or “take your time photography”
I wish someone could gift me a 65mm lens. I should my 50mm to purchase a 65mm l-a and now I can’t find one anywhere in the Uk 🙈😭
Enjoy the camera.
Thanks for the tip!
Shoot Film Like a Boss all good. I’ve had my rz67 for 4 years I didn’t know you don’t need a battery for T mode long exposure. 🤯. This is going to be perfect for cold nights. Cheers
Just sold my one to go all digital again due to health but that camera is probably the best I’ll ever own. Awesome lenses and changing backs is ver useful, you can compare different stocks. I’d definitely get a 67 back though.
What a beautiful camera I know you been using it a lot I am watching it in Oct 21 looks like a awesome piece of equipment at this time I am saving for an ETRS maybe one day I can stretch to one enjoy 😉
It is tempting to add this beast to the collection, but for now I will keep the Bronica GS-1 6x7. You will love the 6X7 negative.
Joining the RB/RZ club. They're so hot right now. Cheers mate, love your stuff!
Nice Informative Video, Mate!
Roger, thanks for the enjoyable video. The blue ring on the lens is not exactly for zone focussing - it adjusts a "floating element" within the lens which adjusts the position of the element to optimise focussing for the distance which you have already set using the bellows. Not all the RZ lenses have this feature. I often forget to adjust it on my RZ, and I'm not certain that I can tell the difference.
Thanks Kevin. It appears to have no mechanical function, it just freely rotates and rotates with no resistance or feeling of it moving any parts inside the lens. In the Manual they call it a Lens Distance Scale (manual says) " indicating the furthest and nearest limits of sharpness for the aperture" I'm all open for suggestions as the more comments I read the more I find out something new. What lens of yours has that function?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Roger, when I wrote the comment I believed that m 110mm/f2.8 lens had the floating element; after doing lots of reading it turns out it doesn't ... apparently those lenses that have the floating element are likely to have "L-A" in the name.
Great video. Really developing your video skills! Another camera I need to buy...
great information!! Dear I am behind a Mamiya but I have a lot of doubts between one of the RB or RZ series, some guys insists on the fragility of the electronic system and the imminent risk of break with surely no reparing option and therefore, they conclude, the best option is the mechanical system RB What do you think dear? I know both systems have theys own fragilities but I need an experienced opinion please
to Time expose, there is one cheat in the manual, that is to "stop", you push the cocking lever 1/2 a cm forwards, this taps the pins, and closes the leaves, a work around on the RB, should still work on the RZ, as this still has mechanical triggering and cocking.
Also a WARNING, doing the M_UP mode, ie: cable into the lens, this mode is ALWAYS active, UNLESS the cable is removed, the sleive is CABLE operated, NOT via the turning knob, like the RB lenses, so you can't instinctively see the mode is active ( dot pointing adjacent to the M on the lens, instead of N-normal mode), this RZ system has a red line on the collar, harder to see easily if the m_up mode is on; this tip is ESPECIALLY important when dealing with polaroid holders, as you NEVER release the film, UNLESS you are 100% sure the SHUTTER has gone off, as this noise is primarily mirror slap, so to hear the click, of the shutter triggering is hard so if you do this film type, use the cable, and then you are sure "bombs gone" when you press it!!, so you don't waste a $7.50 / sheet film stock, ie: as you 'ejected' an unexposed sheet!!
Wow this was very interesting and informative also now I seriously wanna build meself a darkroom and learn how to develop my own film thank you for sharing your amazing hard work with us all and now you’ve gotten a new subscriber and huge fan of your work. Oh yeah I live in the United States in New Orleans
Thanks BigDog from New Orleans. 😁👍
Try the Mirror up mode, this camera is my favorite for serious BW photo and I'm sure you will become a big fan.
Hope you get some great images from your new toy. Looks mint..
Thank you Roger!!! This video made my day. Great opening sequence! I really enjoyed your honest comment about how you don't read instruction manuals. Hopefully you won't be making a cameo appearance as a bomb expert in Mission Impossible 4
Ha Ha.
It's so awesome that your fans support you by sending you photo gear. If I ever get to upgrade my tripod I'll have to send you my manfrotto. That velbon looks janky af :)
It's sturdy enough but then I've never used it for a heavy camera. Soon see!
Watch the gapping on the film with back (they are all pretty old now).......... if you advance the film rapidly it can have an effect on the gap between frames... and if you take the ground glass screen out make sure you put it back correctly like what I didnt, on a job, many years ago, (all out of focus shots cause a bit of dissapointment)
Thanks for that!
It's RZ SIX SEVEN Not sixty seven. When doing long exposures with the cable release in the lens it's not necessary to shift the lens selector back to normal between exposures. I noticed as you did the demo here the cable release auto lock kept the shutter open. Pop the lock off and the shutter will close, no need to fiddle with the lens selector. Cog on the bottom is for power driven backs. Also, the viewfinder bars become useless as a guide when using 6x45 back, you can buy a dedicated mask that fits in the viewfinder.
Thanks again Tom. No matter how I tried I can't get the shutter to close in Bulb mode even with the cable release lock off. All other speeds it will open and close as timed, but not in Bulb mode. Am I missing a trick here?
My favorite medium format system
Also, the flap on the bottom that reveals the cog is for the motor drive to mesh to.
You need to read the manual again regarding the use of a cable release and the 'T' setting on the lens.
Is that not how it works Tom? I'll have to have another look. Let me know.
Lol, I think I need to read the manual too! I still have my RZ but it's been a paperweight for many years now, mu memory of it's operation must be a bit jaded! These days I use the Fuji Gx680III for the odd roll of film I shoot. The method I described only works in 'N' mode so you didn't miss a trick, I did. As you say in 'T' mode the pin on the selector slider needs to be depressed after the long exposure to close the shutter. A point worth noting and I think i am correct on this one is. Once the T' mode is selected it doesn't matter what shutter speed the speed dial is set on, it is irrelevant as the electronic shutter control is disengaged. ie it doesn't even need to be set on Bulb mode. Apologies for leading you up the garden path!! One point worth remembering is. When in mirror up mode, as you know you screw the clable release into the lens socket. When you do so the collar the release screws into rises up out of the lens body to reveal a red line. if you don't see the red line clearly, the mirror up function may not work correctly. IMPORTANT, when you remove the cable release the socket should sink back down into the lens body. If it doesn't go back all the way so you can no longer see the red line, the mirror up function isn't disengaged properly and the shutter may not fire for subsequent exposures. If this happens screw the release back in, and as you unscrew it again, wiggle it about to assist the collar sinking back down. 999 times out of 1000 this doesn't happen, but the odd time it does. If memory serves me correctly this procedure is actually described in the manual. it strikes me as a bit odd that this is so, I suspect this minor niggle was discovered after lens production had started and is a quirk of design in the mechanicals inside the lens. Fear not!! It's a rare occurrence, but to avoid confusion it's best to adopt a check-it and see each time you use the mirror up function, just in case. One other point, when on shutter speeds 30th -1sec/ish I always always used mirror up. The mirror vibration on this camera is significant ad as you know affects shutter durations in that range, more so on this camera. it's even worse on the Fuji 680, like clashing an oven door,lol. Happy shooting, mate.
Good stuff. Read the manual please. I broke my Pentax 67 not knowing that to remove the metering prism the lens had to come off first. Well, it still works but I have lost the TTL metering. Those who have this camera know what I am talking about. Poor design and stupid way of actuating the aperture lever but that is what it is. Enjoy the camera.
Thats a shame.
Awesome video of a fantastic camera. I own one and prefer it by far to a Hasselblad 500.
Would have loved to see a shot of the Buddha together with broken one, sort of what it was and how it ended.
Continue with your superb videos, please :-)
I've been considering getting one but the price (and the idiosyncratic way it works for certain things) makes me second guess. Regardless I love the results you got from it
It's an awesome camera with fantastic lenses. It's heavy! Mostly used as a studio camera. Still a joy to shoot outside or inside
I have the RB67 and love it :-)
Cool intro !!
Haha, I love this. Amazing video, Roger.
spooky instruction manual sequence is at 2:50
That's a nice camera mate, a handy self-defense weapon should you need it too 📷👍🏻
Well done. Thanks.
Mad lad! He did it!
This is a medium format camera!!! I want one!
I have a 645 back but no 645 mask. I have not tried it yet. How do you compose without the mask? Do you have a technique. The pictures came out perfectly composed especially your daughter’s shot.
Most of my work is composed portrait so I've kind of got used to judging without the mask. Thanks.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Can you give me an estimate where on the glass? If not, I'll have to have a mask somehow.
Man, you really need a 6x7 or 6x8 back. That would lead you mad ;) I have the mamiya rb67 pro sd, all manual camera, and i really like it!
That's my dream camera. I'm a simple man.
I'd probably go 6x6 first.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I'm thinking about going on a 6x6 back. I know that's probably your favourite framing, but I think a 6x7 back would allow allow you to crop the photo in the darkroom anyway and let you save time and money in the meantime, but not frames... (in my opinion btw) 👍
@@jacopotassinari I'd need an enlarger for 6x7.
Epic intro anthem music for an epic camera!!! I like it!! :-)
Awesome machine!! So.... Emma's been relegated to the back seat if the car now has she?? :-D
No way, she doesn't get invited when I take it out.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss :-D
Nice one! Congrats! Always wanted to try one of those, but I don't think I can justify owning a Pentax 6x7 AND a Mamiya 67 :-)
That Pentax is a good bit of kit.
Great video and great camera. In other news you seem to have bad luck with Buddhas.
67 is just a great camera!
But on my shoulder I will still wear my Bronica SQ))
How are you working in darkroom with red everywhere? Certain light or paper? Great vid. Thanks
They are called Safe Lights. Literally red lights that don't harm the light sensitive paper.
i think my man has like 50 buddas in a box. i have a feeling we'll see more of these soon 😊
Any trusted sites where I can get this camera???
I would love to find out about digital backs for this system. Sorry to see Buddha take a dive.
Expensive
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss so far...talk is 12.5k.
I should add..that is 12.5k $au
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss i enquired in Australia.... 12.5k
The "T" setting is a way better option for long exposures than "B"
I figured that one out. The Mamiya 645, If I remember, you could shoot bulb as long as you liked.
Wooooooow!!!! lucky you...i want one to!!! :)
Great video.
Cheers Kevin :)
is there a 6x6 back for it? whats the difference between the RB and the RZ? any thoughts on which is the better camera??
There is a 6x6 back. They are expensive I've noticed. I'm not sure of the RB/RZ difference. I think the RB is older.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss ok. so i've done a bit of research. the RB is completely mechanical. no batteries required or electronics to fail. the RB is heavier because the body is more robust and durable. it does have electronic attachments like auto film backs and such. i think i am going to buy an RB Pro-SD if i can find a kit with a wide angle for a good price. have a good day! :D
You can head on over to David Hancock's channel for in depth info and reviews on the RZ67
Damn this intro man !
Where is your meter from?
Very cool.
She's in beautiful shape.
"I am like a pig in a shit!!" #epic :-)
😂😂 you sould accept Budas, instead of cameras! Good Video! I enjoy all of them.
Can you print 6x7 with your enlarger?
No I can't Gianni. I'll have to upgrade to an enlarger that can enlarge all sizes. Is there one?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I use the durst m607 to enlarge my GS-1 negs (the 6x7 camera nobody talks about)
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I imagined indeed :D think that a durst M800 is perfect for you. You can print up to 6x9 (with the right condenser). Or if you want to invest on a dream...durst laborator ❤️
I’m the 420th like. Spark one in my name
Only thing to top this would be a Buddha camera ;-)
Forgive me Roger, I burst out laughing when you dropped your broken Buddha. I’m sorry!!!!
Ha ha. I'm going to glue it back together.
just 1/400s isn't that a bit slow?
Not for its intended use of studio work.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss fair enough then, when you said 1/400 I just thought "no shallow depth of field in the day".... just checked online, medium format film camera are getting very expensive, actually most of the film cameras that pop on UA-cam more frequently are 😭
An advice, unless you want to wnd like Quasimodo, don´t use the neck strap XD
The shutter is so quiet!!!
Actually it's the mic, it dips volume anything over loud. The Mirror slap is louder than on the video.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss :O
oh my Buddha, this made me laugh so much when he finished breaking the buddha....It seems that he should meditate more often....lol, great video though.
Glad you enjoyed it
Poor Buddha! :D
🇮🇹 👏👏👏👏👏 🇮🇹
I had an even better camera, the Rollei 6006, but I wouldn't go back to film now, with the quality of modern digital cameras!!!