Milling Machine DRO Test
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- In this Video I have a lot to cover including showing you how I mounted the Y-axis scale onto the mill. After that I machine a stop to prevent the mill saddle colliding with the DRO glass scale and breaking it. Finally I carry out accuracy tests to see how close to the real dimensions and the results may just surprise you.
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A DRO is a great tool for improving accuracy. Thanks for the video.
Yeah they are brilliant make using the machine much more enjoyable. Glad you enjoyed. 👍
just got these videos in my "suggested for you" nice channel..... what i would of done instead of making the stop for the front. was to make a new angle mount but offset for the encoder, to set it back 15 - 20mm so it doesnt hit the end of the scale.
Happy new yare joe let's hope it's a good one.
love the video i have just bought D R o for myself
Im also starting out my machining journey. Keep the content coming.
Welcome to the channel Reinier, and congratulations on starting out. It is a very enjoyable hobby to get into and before you know it you’ll be making all sorts. Keep practising and hope the channel helps you out.
Joe,
Can you cover the dro fixings again..showing the brackets fixings etc...I have a Warco Super Major i am looking to fit a DRO to..
Joe, are you sure the orange bit on your y axis "encoder" is meant to be on there, I was led to believe that it is a packing piece to keep the encoder and scale safely together during shipping and is generally removed when the encoder is installed. Would probably allow you to claim back your 10mm.
Great point Alan I’ll have to have a good read through the installation instructions and hopefully remove it then.
@@MachiningwithJoe Joe c
heck out ua-cam.com/video/U1XrbL1tpmU/v-deo.html Maker Geek Warco WM18 Mill DRO overview and x axis set up at 03:30
Joe, your Y axis scale looks like the glass scale is facing sideways, where it will be vulnerable to picking up dirt and swarf. Could you not get it facing down where it is better protected? Good job testing the accuracy, I must do that again on mine.
Hi Horus yes I think I need to maybe put a rubber protector over it as I’m not sure it will be practical having it facing down.
As constructive criticism, have you got enough oil in the headstock, I thought it a bit noisy at 17 and a half mins. Or, is that how they are?
Looking on the sight glass it looks as if the oil is full. However I am wanting to do an oil change as don't know if it's ever been done.
@@MachiningwithJoe I don't think you change oil like you do in a car engine, but if you do change it, you know it is the correct stuff, stick to manufacturers recommendation for oil as to thick can be as bad as too thin. Modern extreme pressure oils in a car differential is like water where it used to be based on whale oil and very thick. Get the right one.
Is your vice on tenons? Or, do you clock it every time? That would be a good little project for you.
So I only dial my vice in either when I've removed it or if I lower or raise the handle as it has a tendency to move slightly where its on the round column.
@@MachiningwithJoe tenons would make for a quick set up then, the bottom of your vice should already be drilled and tapped to accommodate them.
maybe a bit late now but if you made a base plate to support the scale and machined the angle on it for the casting you could get it square and not need a stop or loose the 10 mm. re the vice, drill a hole through the handle a and vice shaft and pin it in place.
Hi Campingstoveman,
yes wasn't entirely sure how I was going to fix the y-axis. for now this will do. Yeah good idea for the vice handle, I've got a few ideas on what to do with it but will definitely consider your idea.
Spot on Mate. The old Autofocus has a mind of its own. Just a quick question, are you based on the Island mate?
Yes Bren I'm based on the IOW. Are you local then?
My family are on the Island but I live in Soutampton 👍
Hi Joe. . Great work . I have given you a sub. Cheers . steviegtr.
Hi Steviegtr welcome to the channel and thank you for subscribing. Hopefully you’ll find more of my videos helpful and if you ever want to know more about something in a vid just leave a comment. All the best and once again welcome to the channel.
You should test with a test indicator for precision.
why do you back off the wiggler after it has flixed off, this could be wher your error is
So according to the manual for the wiggle when it kicks over it’s 0.05mm over. When it’s spinning true that’s when it’s made contact. So I could of -0.05 from my reading and left it kicked over I suppose.
@@MachiningwithJoe fair enough it just not not something i have seen or done my self in engineering over the last 35 years, or i teach trainees to do, check out titans of cnc to see how they wiggle but at the end of the day 0.05 doesnt matter that much on manuals machines. keep on milling
@@neals7436 cheers Neals yeah for what I do I’m never going to need to be within .05mm so it’s all good :)
Save your self 20 minutes, DROs are crazy accurate.
The red but is a spacer shim . Should be removed after fitting.
If you are serious about machining, be on the look out for a set of gauge blocks, the type that you wring together, they can be expensive, so you are probably looking for a second hand set from an Engineer that has passed away.