MORE HVAC POWER! Improve Ducted HVAC With a Automatic Booster Fan
Вставка
- Опубліковано 22 лип 2018
- ----6" Booster Blower: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
-----Digital Temp Controller: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
BRAND SPANKIN' NEW CHANNEL MERCH! teespring.com/stores/trial-n-...
FIND ME ON FACEBOOK: UA-camTrial...
Fan Mail/Business Opportunities/Inquires:
E-mail: TrialNErrorMedia@gmail.com
Address: PO Box 349 Candia, NH 03034
Shop my store full of my favorite tech and tools HERE: www.amazon.com/shop/trialnerror
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION, PLEASE READ FULLY: This video is for entertainment purposes only. The content of this video include or may include high voltage wiring, moving parts, suspended weights, risk of fire electrocution and many other hazards. These hazards are capable of serious injury, death or property damage and destruction. Consult a with licensed professional before attempting anything you see in this video. Do not try this at home. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - Навчання та стиль
Thank you for sharing. I had a white fan ordered from Home Depot, but I will cancel it and get the one you showed. That one looks so much more powerful. THanks for teaching us.
I added an inline pressure switch and two 6" variable fans. Faster for summer and slower for winter. Like a dream. Helps push air from basement to second floor. And i can control the cfm.
I did something similar to this but I'm glad i found your video, that Willhi will be a nice addition to my setup.
Great video. I am definitely going to see if it solves my problem. Thank you for the information.🥶
Thank you for sharing, this is so freaking awesome. I have one room that is always warm.
*This unit works like a charm. Keeps my rv 21 x 41 very **Fastly.Cool** . I recommend to anyone that wants to keep a rv cold without having to turn on the main a/c.*
You should have added an air return line to that room up high. You can only push so much air into a room, so its best to remove the hot air out, so the cool air can come into the room down low. Even if you added a vent up high and vented it into the hallway next to it would help a ton.
These units seem like a terrible idea. That room could be hotter because the HVAC system isn't balanced but it could also be caused by an issue with air sealing in the attic, attic ventilation, improper attic ventilation. If any of those are a problem you're just throwing money out the ceiling and possibly introducing or creating mold growth by pressurizing that room. If it's simply an HVAC issue the best solution would be adding a return vent at the top of the ceiling as you've said. I'd also be concerned about adding an aftermarket fan to my ducts with 0 understanding of HVAC. Sure you might make the room colder but are you affecting the efficiency of your unit or wearing it out faster?
They do use duct boosters in large commercial buildings. You forgot to mention that your ducts should actually be insulated.
That is an expert suggestion!!
@@shibbyrickwhy is it a bad idea? Why would it wear his current unit out sooner? The handler is blowing air which takes effort. If one room is pulling extra air wouldn’t that take some of the effort off the handler and make it easier for it to push the air and maybe extend its life?
I’ve for a 4 ton Lennox system and 2 small guest rooms have too small ducts feeding them, like 4” and 6 or 8” so they don’t cook enough. The ducts are too narrow. I’m thinking of putting these in the attic ducts to help boost the a/c into them when I have guests. I got a quote to re do the attic duct work at it was over $10k. I live in Hawaii. Why would these duct fans be a bad idea. Maybe I could put them into a wifi controlled outlet and boost airflow only when needed. What do you think?
No idea this was a thing. It’s exactly what I need
You did a great job man I was pretty sure I could do it, but I wasn't sure what kind of a switch control to use. Thanks mucho this will save me a thousand bucks!!
Good deal! Let me know how you like it once you get it setup and good luck man.
Thanks for this.
In your opinion, can I wore direct
To the Air Handler? So the fam turns on when the condenser and air handler turn on.
I’m not understanding how the little Willie helps. Meaning if the sensor tells the fan to come on and if the condenser/air handler haven’t turned on , what air is it pushing?
That’s wire. Not wore
Time/min 4:44
"That'll work out nicely"
... a moment later.
"Nothings ever easy"
Too funny! Been there.
Helpful video.
Thank you
A ceiling fan would really help and should be the first addition . The electricity and framing is there too
it does but not if your register is weak
Thanks!
Check fan wiring on furnace board! Black wire is high, blue medium, red low speed! You may have to change jumper location to get fan speed on high for AC!
----6" Booster Blower: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0796NBGRB/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=trialnerror-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B0796NBGRB&linkId=7939bd30daec1fc144d5f9ca6549ad2b
-----Digital Temp Controller: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4TJR00/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00V4TJR00&linkCode=as2&tag=trialnerror-20&linkId=3160f19b05c2be3d65e03d70c90b80d0
Got any other link for the blower? the link is showing out of stock... Thanks for the video good stuff!
Just updated it to the closest model I could find. Thanks for letting me know they went out of stock!
wow i need this
1 Question was do you insert the thermostat Lil Willie into the line before the booster fan?
Was that a return air in the hallway above the base board hydronic heater?
And I was about to buy something from Home Depot…now I won’t. Great video.
Very nice job
Thank you! Cheers!
is there one .. reversable air flow switch? for winter/summer
i plan on rigging a homemade booster because it’s about 1-2 degrees ( up to 6° if TV is on) Dad sets T-stat to 77° and i’m not aloud to touch it so i plan on taking the register out cutting off the vanes (1. to increase airflow 2. so i have more room to work with) then i will zip tie in 1 238 CFM AXIAL muffin fan that is 150 mm x 172 mm x 51 mm (vent hole is 6x10) then i plan on running a small extension cord down from the roof (where the register is) to a true variable speed controller, run it back up using wall mount clips through a closet door crack up top (door stays open anyway) run power down to about eye level to a plug in thermostat that has a probe- (which runs back up to supply to fan register supply air) and i’ll run the plug down out the bottom closet door crack again to a near by outlet.
anyone have any recommendations?
I’m doing a booster because i don’t have access to duct work
You need to insulate the metal duct leading into the fan or condensation will build up on it and drip.
True. I did wrap any exposed metal in insulation. Thanks for the tip/good looking out!
@@Trialnerror should you wrap the fan also?
I did this for my upstairs. The only thing I would change are the fan and I'd create a bypass for the fan. The fan is way to noisy and if you don't have the human on it blocks the air flow. Otherwisebthe system works great
if you can get a return up to the top of the ceiling you don't have to worry the cool air registers , remember AC;s remove the heat and heaters add heat to homes
Great video! Thanks for your expertise on the "Willhi" 🤣
My pleasure! HAHA Thanks very much for watching!
How has the long term been on this setup? Recently have found myself with a nearly identical problem. Thanks for the video!
Any update on the success of this setup as this payer asked?
Does this also help while in heat mode?
Do they make WiFi units?
Where and how did you mount the temp censor from the thermostatic switch? Did you put it inside the ductwork or are you taking the temp based on that room? I wasn't quite sure I understood how you had the controller setup for the on/off function (what temp to kick on the fan and what temp to kick off the fan) I bought the exact same setup and this fan boosts some serious airflow, works great ( I converted my attic into a three room second floor in an old house and needed the airflow boost up there) but I don't want the fan running constantly, so I got the switch but not sure how the setup should go. Thanks!
Did you ever find out how to set it up?
Dude! You had to do the little willhi joke. We could be friends.
now where in the line did you mount the temp probe? How does it turn off/on in winter when you want to move heat? Can you set a temp "range"?
I mounted the probe just before the blower. I don't use this system for heat but you can program a completely different set of data points (heating temps) to have it cycle on and off with the heat. Great questions. Thanks man.
I also hate it when my palatial estates cathedral ceilings areas are insufficiently heated. Also 2:39 where do i get a female reproductive vase like this?
Can you tell us what the Long White Box attached the Wall down by the FLOOR that is sitting under a RETURN VENT behind that door? Thanks
Baseboard heat
I bought the 720 CFM 8" VIVOSUN and really disappointed after spending hours installing it. Even at lowest speed, its just too loud and the motor sound resonating through whole house. Both end of the fan is mounted with steel duct instead of foamy soft duct like you used so not sure if thats what causing so much noise. need a better solution .
I got this exact same set up and I’m having difficulty get the WillHi set correctly to cut on and off at set temperatures. I’ve set the H Ld = 82and Hb = 70. Thinking this would cut the unit on at 82 degrees when the heat was running and cut off at 70 degrees once the heat stopped running and the line cooled.
Hey I hope u replaced that insulation back in that elbow
The temp might be for cooling they make ones for heat not sure or switch the settings around
I know you didn’t say lil Willy 🤣😂😂 Classic!
Missing info on your wire connection from blower to digital temp controller.. Where did you install the temp. sensor?
Hello, I have an air duct fan with better performance and can be transformed. I can give you free evaluation. Can you take a 1-minute short video for me?
Did your blower have a speed controller? I'm going to do this same setup for my bedroom
No but plenty of them do! Good luck man!
Question! Where exactly did you put in the Temperature probe? I have a similar setup with 4 AC Infiniti fans and are always “ON” as I have the temperature probe tracking the indoor temperature.
I’m thinking of puncturing a hole 🕳️ into, inserting the probe and using tape. Looking forward to hearing your suggestion.
Do you think if the fan is to close to the ac unit might pull air from the other room?
Balance, if more air goes to a room guess where it comes from.. Other rooms..
That wattles intro music tho…
I have no clue what your talking about my man.
That hallway door should open the other way so it doesn't block the return air grill.
How turn on and how turn off
As sombody who uses a ton of inline fans you should have used a different style and you should have ran the power back to the furnace blower.
Will this work for the heater ? I get very poor heat in the attic & on my second floor. It's cold but yet the first floor is crazy hot.
Sure will, you would just program it to kick on at a high temp. I use the same setup in the winter for that same purpose.
does this help with my scenario?
1. 2 story townhome with a one AC unit that blows air to 1st and 2nd floors
2. thermostat located in 1st floor and during summertime normally 1st floor is cool 2nd floor is always hotter. about 3-4 degrees difference
Absolutely. This will push more air up top where you need it and that should better equalize the temp difference between your two stories. Good luck man and thanks for watching!
@@Trialnerror Thanks! just ordered same product you have listed! BTW, where do you put the temp. sensor?
@ Danny Ryu
I have same situation as you. I installed the ac 10 inch duct fan go my line. I also connected a sail switch to an outlet in attic to turn the booster fan on and off. I have no problems al all! I say the sail switch is the way to go!!
5:30 that sounds loud as hell. I'm looking at a panasonic 120cfm unit that is probabaly $120 but much quieter. how far away from the register is it? I guess if it is hidden in that room the sound won't travel that far?
Yes, it's in a closet. It's not that loud but it's not quiet either.
Hello,
What kind of A/C system are you running? and have you had good luck with it ?
@:20 he says it
You could've broke the load wire hot/black wire by installing a 24volt coil relay which is wired in with the cooling terminal on the board to your furnace use the Y terminal and C terminal for common
This isn't a furnace, it's a mini split so there's no common wiring for them unfortunately. That's a great idea for a conventional system though. This solution with the temp probe will work for anything.
Clearly the far required 120v if he’s wired it to the electrical out let so 24v wouldn’t run it
The Y terminal is for the outdoor condenser. It would be the G (fan) and the C (common) terminals that would be required.
@jrome254 read what I wrote again
@@EbanQHanna ya no, only for cooling mode wire the 24 coil of relay using yellow and common cause some thermostats do not sending signal to the g terminal when calling for cooling or heating but nice try though amd if you really want to get technical I use 2 relays and I have one from w and one powered from the y terminal it doesn't matter if you leave the fan on on when it calls for heat or cooling the signal is interpreted by the either call.
My system is in the attic. In the summer, the attic is about 120+ degrees and in the winter it can get below freezing. In the winter, booster on temp is set at 75 and the heater is not on but the duct has cooled to maybe below 40, won't the fan run without the heater running because the duct temp is below the on temp?
Same issue with cooling - if the fan goes on at 65 and off at 55, but the heats up to100 degrees, the fan will run without the AC being on because the duct has heated up.
The problem is that the ambient temperature in the attic is way outside the on/off settings. What is the recommendation with this condition?
Not a lot of good options, but I would use a small inline fan (speed controlled) to keep a very low amount of air moving through the system at all times. OR, use something like this and extend the sensor wiring to reach the HVAC source for accurate readings.
Does the whilli do high and low temp triggers to turn on? i would like it to be on with the AC and heater.
Yes, you can trigger high and low ranges
So, does little Willhi work for heat as well?
Yes, you can configure it for heat just like for cooling.
Would a pressure switch be more insync with turning on and off relative to the operation of both AC and or Furnace turning on or off?
Yes and no. Because this is a split system, the fan runs 24x7. I don't need to boost it 24x7 (would only add to a waste of energy) so going by temp allows me better control. Even in a conventional system this setup is no more complicated and saves you from issues with pressure that varies dependent on the filter. Those pressure switches can be temperamental because your dealing with such a small variance compared to atmospheric pressure.
I have a central unit where the farthest bedroom stays about 6 degrees warmer than the rest. If I put a booster in only that line, could it "starve" the cool air from the rest of the rooms?
I've found that rather than starve it it just removes some of the static pressure on the main blower. The other outlets don't seem to be effected when this one turns on. I'm sure everyone's situation is different so it could, but not in my case anyway.
@@Trialnerror What if run it all the time? Would it suck air from the other rooms rather then from the manifold and the returns?
Where did you install the controller sensor?
I just slipped the probe in just before the fan. It can really be placed anywhere as long as it's exposed to the air from the HVAC unit.
A 6” flex duct is designed to move 75 CFM. If the in-line fan is rated for 300 CFM, I imagine that in-line fan will over heat. Also, if your door is covering the return, the system will be starving for air. I recommend calling a certified NCI AC technician.
He should be consulting an A/C tech. Possibly an insulation guy. And possibly a roofer. If one room is hotter than the others, especially one with the ceiling that room has, it could indicate an issue with attic ventilation, air sealing, or insulation. If any of those are an issue creating a positive pressure in that room fed by cold air could lead to or exacerbate mold growth in the attic. Even if none of those are an issue there is a strong possibility of adding stress to your HVAC unit shortening it's lifespan or decreasing its overall efficiency by throwing aftermarket fans into the ducts.
And that elbow don’t have any wrap it will sweat 😅
@@jrome254 No it should be OK it's in a condition space
@@good_commentary5829 the elbow wasn't in conditioned space it was in the attic lol
@@shibbyrickwhy would that shorten the life of his HVAC? The HVAC is pushing air to all the rooms. If one room is pulling air wouldn’t it be taking some of the load off the HVAC blower and likely extending its life? (Sorry if I have terminology wrong).
change those spotlights to led if you haven't already too
Those were LED's. I'm all LED my man!
does boosting one duct reduce flow to other ducts?
Yes but it net's you better airflow through the system overall. I would say I get 60% more airflow through the system as a whole and the other 40% seems to be evenly distributed by a small reduction at each of the other returns in the system.
I thought the idea with these is you wire it to the blower on your hvac so when the blower kicks on the booster kicks on
Not an option with a mini split. Mini split's dont have typical thermostats with typical wiring you can use a relay with to trigger external fans. That's why the controller is key, you can use the temp probe with any type of system.
Nice fan but here is a easy method for a on off switch the right way. Here is the answer the right way that hvac guys use. Air Flow/Differential Pressure Switch Control or adjustable version Male Thread Pneumatic Adjustable Diaphragm Type Pressure Switch Normally Open is what you need not the closed one because will work in reverse
He said this is like a mini split system they don't have that option
I do fish and those units fail. I highly recommend a smoke co2 detector in that room.. But what do I know..
Since your talking about fish on a HVAC video I think the answer to your question is: not much?
at 3:12 you show a piece of equipment on your wall not to ask a dumb questions but you dont mention what it is or what it does.
the link for the 6 inch blower is no longer valid. Please update.
Thank you very much for letting me know!
We replaced an old Dometic in our 36 foot camper (vented). ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxDDbPbIlwLRcX_ntp51ui5UMtAUGpHYxE The install was a simple swap, all holes lined up, the electric plug back in with no trouble. Getting it on the camper was the most "difficult" part of it, and my friend made it look easy. I've seen people "sled" them up ladders as well though. I watched a UA-cam video for instructions, very easily done. Some say it doesn't come with instructions, but I found the instructions under the ac in the box. I didn't need them, but they were there.It works well to keep a 36 footer comfortable, all by itself. It doesn't seem to be any quieter than the original, but it isn't any louder either. We're very pleased with it. Esp with the ease of swapping them out.
What's the blower name & model ?
There's a link in the description and the pinned comment at the top has it as well
7:40 rats 🐀 rats 🐀 we are the rats🐀
What’s size you used
6?
Yes sir
You could do less work just ordering a more powerful fan for that model number from that ac unit like carrier or trane or Lenox which ever brand your AC FURNACE or AIR HANDLER be. You just un hook the wires to fan motor inside furnace an unscrew 2 bolts that hold the fan in place and it just slides out, then you can slide a more Powerful one in there, screw in the 2 screws an hook up the wires, make sure you pull the circuit board power to furnace b4 doing all this so you dont die, when your done installing and wiring then plug circuit connector back into place an ac will turn on once you put door back on the furnace.
Unfortunately I can't. This is a DUCTED mini split, so fan upgrades are not an option, outside of this solution of course.
How long has this lasted you
It's still going. No reason it won't last for a long long time.
What happens when it’s winter?..
Can be programed for heat in addition to cooling. Once set both will work automatically, no need to switch back and forth. In my case, I only needed it for cooling. The heat naturally does a better job of circulating in this particular room.
anyone else here that one like 20 minute song by verdunkelm?
It's been three years, what's the verdict? Knowing what you know now would you do it again?
Absolutely. I happen to be chilling in that room as I type this thanks to that blower.
@@Trialnerror What happens during winter when the temp hits ~45 does the fan kick on and you get more cold air?
Booster should not be right at the handler exit, better to have it 6-8 from the vents.
Yes and no. Yes if your goal is max airflow, no if you want low noise. This pushes a ton of air and sound was more important to me. I get more than I need for airflow and the distance keeps the noise down to virtually nothing in the bedroom.
You can get a good 5000 BTU ac for about $140 for the room that size. Wouldn’t that be more efficient and cost effective. 😆
Not cost effective to run at all. Window AC's are horrifically inefficient, loud and a pain to put in and take out with the seasons here. We use to have window AC's and now the house stays cooler and with a lower electric bill so it's a win win.
You don’t have enough airflow cause they didn’t duct it correctly. Go look at how the manufacturer says the ducted unit should be ducted. Most of those units are low static and they must be ducted a specific way.
All of these are low static units. Even when ducted properly they will benefit from an extra push.
when does 300 CFM equal a ton (2000 pounds). You know that air is very light and it would take a while to fill up 30,000 cu/ft 300x10x10, so at least 100 minutes should do it. An NBA basketball court 94x50 at a height of just over 6 feet. That would take a lot of breathing. consider a Ultra 340 CFM Electric 12 Amp Blower/Vacuum/Mulcher. A $30-99 room fan is 1/16-1/8 hp .4-1.2 amps 50-200 watts the sweet sopt before it is too loud. A cu ft of air would be the volume of a person breathing for 28 minutes, rate of 15 breaths p/m Exhaling 1 KG of carbon per day. Wow. SO a blowhard would use a ton of air (30,000 cu ft x 28) hey thats about 583 days breathing value. So if you want to hang out inside a airtight court figure on a 1 year safety margin for an apocalypse. Keep the doors braced for Zombies, who need no air, supposedly.
For the love of God eliminate the background music. Serves only to annoy and distract.
No
I can tell you have never done proper duct work installation.
Yea... Check the name of the channel bud. Not launching rockets here.
Yep