Thanks for this, I'm picking up a Classic 500 tomorrow here in Thailand with only 500 k's on it, it's almost new. Your videos have been super useful, interesting and have inspired me. I have watched them for over a year now. Thank you. Good luck with your continued projects, although I do miss Doug. Cheers
It was perhaps myself who advised Paul on running-in. I cannot advise a harsh running-in on engineering principles. Note I said harsh not hard. The first stage to the first service at 500km should be done pretty much by the book or the bearings may be hammered oval; the piston/bore was run in at the factory, about the only part that was, it does not take long. All of the other components do need running in. The book gives a first stage running in speed of up to 60kph, this is probably a little too slow for the EFI-500 making it slog, a gentle 80kph is probably more realistic. The second stage says avoid full throttle in the book, and above 1000km avoid prolonged full throttle. Many riders never take this motor over 4000rpm, and that does need doing or it will vibrate forever. It should be understood that the engine needs work put into it to run it in, pushing the bearings and cogs and so on into alignment. The revs should be gradually increased over a period of time. I did this by progressively changing up later, changing up where we encountered stiffness. Properly run-in these motors loosen up and produce significantly more power between 2400-3200km (1500-2000 miles) even in stock form. Eventually the motor would rev freely to the limiter. My 2015 Classic-EFI has K&N, Hitchcocks free-flow 50s exhaust system, Power Commander 5, Autotune AT-200, with RevXtend to 6000rpm. It was hitting the 5500rpm limiter in lower gears, it now revs freely to 6000rpm in top given enough road (I'll leave you to work that out).
Yeah the bike runs so smooth now, particularly I it's current form it is fantastic, specks to date are 19t front Bp6eix plug Ngk cap AEW Goldstar Exhaust Pod Filter/air box delete Crank Case Breather Powertronic /custom map Runs really sweet! Thanks for dropping by!
@@iRidetas I went back to the 18T because of the huge gap between 4th and 5th gears with the 19T. The tiny electrode on the iridium plug gave me problems, I'm running a BPR5ES, slightly hotter (because mix is slightly richer).
Yeah I've been thinking of going to a 5 plug as I live in a cold environment and it's running richer. I'll have to give it a go. 19t is my favourite mod I won't be going back myself!
@@iRidetas - the plug "heat" has nothing to do with the environment but getting rid of the 2500°C burn temperature of the spark that provides the self cleaning. If you are running slightly richer you may want a '5'. The Euro4 models come with a '5' anyway. The stock HT lead and plug gap are not good, can cause missing (which causes plug fouling) and may want changing.
OMG!! i didnt follow those rules in the manual from day one because i was so thrilled to ride a 200kg bull ! I accelerated to 4-5k rpms on the highways and 2-3 in the streets. I did this for 9k kilometres and went away from home for two years. Now after returning back i serviced it and it runs soo smooth now after 12k mark.
Nice one mate, sweet note, even sweeter Tassie roads, super jealous and homesick. Been thinking about an Enfield, your comments have given me some food for thought. Cheers
The big mistake many reviewers do with the Classic 500. is they are using press bikes, which haven't even been broken in yet. And they talk about the vibration as if its a problem. Well perhaps if they got hold of one that had 3000 or 4000km on it they would see its different. Mine when I got it has 19 km on it. its now at 5250km and its like night and day. I also have a BMW R1150RT and Ducati Scrambler. You can not compare a Royal Enfield Classic 500 to any of these. its a totally different riding experience. Of all my bikes I have t say, honestly its my personal favorite and most relaxing on mountain roads and even going to and from work. I've even done love trips on it for 1 week or 2 and I find it very comfortable. If I want speed I take my Ducati or BMW.
Bought my 2019 classic 500 two weeks ago with only 400kms, now it has 1100 and vibrates a lot especially between 90 and 110 km/h. After about 115 it gets smoother. I'll try the hard run in tomorrow, thanks for sharing!
Nice commentary, and superb sound. I have a 2017 Classic 500 and have been doing something *similar* to this, given that the crazy Manhattan traffic gives me the opportunity to run through the rev range often.
I took your advice last year on my duke, it had 2kms when i bought it, now 5,300kms later i'm lovin it. Not a prob through rev range, pity i couldn't do it on my bobber as it's old engine. Thanks for sharing m8.
Very interesting, I watched this video yesterday and I tried it today at 220 miles on my new Classic 500. I did it 3 times of hard run in on gear 2/3/4 and I could see significant change in vibrations and power. When I came home, my hands were not numb and I did a longer ride than usual. My question is, is it only required a couple of times? Thanks for sharing!
Yup Tasmania is a beautiful spot for sure. Not much luck in getting the bike as i worked pretty hard to buy it but location super lucky to be riding these roads!
Honest to god I brought mine new and could not believe the vibration......... I also did it as Paul G did I did take it easy for the first 500 k By 2000k Was smoothing out , now has 4K And will Cruz at 110 and can see in the mirrors.....
@@iRidetas - it should be understood that Paul is not an engineer or mechanic but a chap running a holiday let business in Spain with the bikes there as a side benefit attraction, and he has spanish regulations to contend with that effectively prohibit modifications to the bikes. This engine will run smoother by that mileage anyway but the real trick is to get them running freely over 4000rpm and through the entire power band. A conservative (low) maximum piston speed calculation gives 6800rpm as a realistic read line.
Pretty much like most bikes... mine was first 500 miles. 501 I was on highway! Haha!! (True news) that was a nice place to ride. Reminds me of Lake Placid area, awesome!!
Hehe wasn't that where you and that old woman from golden girls combat a giant alligator!!?? That was a beautiful spot and not disimilar where I was riding
My mates a garage mechanic, he says he has very few problems with high mileage rep cars that have been driven hard from day one. They don’t burn or leak oil even with high mileages. They also tend to have noticeably more power and smoother engines. Low mileage cars that have never been revved are the ones he has the most problems with.
Got a 2020 C5 classic. Changed the God awful headlamp right out of the gate. I have followed the manuals way of doing things but I think I am going to try your way now. By the way pretty much everybody in the US thinks this bike is a Triumph Hahaha
So does that mean I shouldn't follow the manual instructions? And should I follow this technique after 2000 kms or can I follow it before that? Please reply mate.. Mine is a classic 350 efi
My work gets new Kensworth trucks every year and the ones that get nursed don't pull worth a damn, whereas the ones the get driven hard from the get go pull like a train. Bikes would be the same I reckon.
I've always heard break it in the way you intend to ride it...I got my Continental GT with 500 miles (about 800km). Hopped on the expressway and rode about 8 hours north doing 65-70mph (110kmph). Varied the rpms a bit when I could with letting off the throttle and then giving it a nice wrist twist to get back up to speed. I've alt heard these single cyl Enfield really loosen up after some road time and use.
If you thrash any new motor in you are going to hammer the bearings oval, and you will never have a good motor. With 500 miles on these motors, you can use full throttle, but not full time, 70mph is only fast cruise not full throttle. Whilst these engines are /new/ and still tight, they should be shut off every hour and allowed to cool. Varying the throttle is good. First service at 300 miles is a major full service. Whilst still running in it is probably a good idea to change the oil every 300-500 miles until is stays clean, a lot of swarf and detritus is produced that needs to be removed. By 1000-1200 miles the oil should be remaining clean and so return to normal service programme. When running-in is complete, the engine should be able to rev freely to the limiter.
Mines got quite a bit of vibration coz I ran it in like a pussy, can't see much out of my mirrors, I might get the new royal Enfield trials handle bars one day as they don't ruin the look like a lot of braced bars do.
Yeah mine was a bit buzzy when I got it but it's now very minimal. Think people may be a bit stuck on the old cast iron barrel days. I'm going to have a look at brace bars down the track but they can wreck the looks I agree man!
Anyone warning about this method should simply watch fortnine video ua-cam.com/video/u74jYkItdD8/v-deo.html On the subject. Hard or soft break in is an old debate. He tells you why manufacturers recommend soft. He also shows you how he broke in the last ten bikes this year. For lazy people... a mix. Drive it hard, soft ,cool down rinse and repeat. The key is allow cooldown for hotspots you will get.
Thanks for this, I'm picking up a Classic 500 tomorrow here in Thailand with only 500 k's on it, it's almost new. Your videos have been super useful, interesting and have inspired me. I have watched them for over a year now.
Thank you. Good luck with your continued projects, although I do miss Doug.
Cheers
Thanks mate, hope you enjoy your 500 as much as I do! 😊👍
It was perhaps myself who advised Paul on running-in. I cannot advise a harsh running-in on engineering principles. Note I said harsh not hard.
The first stage to the first service at 500km should be done pretty much by the book or the bearings may be hammered oval; the piston/bore was run in at the factory, about the only part that was, it does not take long.
All of the other components do need running in. The book gives a first stage running in speed of up to 60kph, this is probably a little too slow for the EFI-500 making it slog, a gentle 80kph is probably more realistic. The second stage says avoid full throttle in the book, and above 1000km avoid prolonged full throttle. Many riders never take this motor over 4000rpm, and that does need doing or it will vibrate forever. It should be understood that the engine needs work put into it to run it in, pushing the bearings and cogs and so on into alignment. The revs should be gradually increased over a period of time. I did this by progressively changing up later, changing up where we encountered stiffness. Properly run-in these motors loosen up and produce significantly more power between 2400-3200km (1500-2000 miles) even in stock form. Eventually the motor would rev freely to the limiter. My 2015 Classic-EFI has K&N, Hitchcocks free-flow 50s exhaust system, Power Commander 5, Autotune AT-200, with RevXtend to 6000rpm. It was hitting the 5500rpm limiter in lower gears, it now revs freely to 6000rpm in top given enough road (I'll leave you to work that out).
Yeah the bike runs so smooth now, particularly I it's current form it is fantastic, specks to date are
19t front
Bp6eix plug
Ngk cap
AEW Goldstar Exhaust
Pod Filter/air box delete
Crank Case Breather
Powertronic /custom map
Runs really sweet! Thanks for dropping by!
Bike in current state of fettle if your intetested! ua-cam.com/video/zuXv2lt5Foo/v-deo.html
@@iRidetas I went back to the 18T because of the huge gap between 4th and 5th gears with the 19T. The tiny electrode on the iridium plug gave me problems, I'm running a BPR5ES, slightly hotter (because mix is slightly richer).
Yeah I've been thinking of going to a 5 plug as I live in a cold environment and it's running richer. I'll have to give it a go. 19t is my favourite mod I won't be going back myself!
@@iRidetas - the plug "heat" has nothing to do with the environment but getting rid of the 2500°C burn temperature of the spark that provides the self cleaning. If you are running slightly richer you may want a '5'. The Euro4 models come with a '5' anyway. The stock HT lead and plug gap are not good, can cause missing (which causes plug fouling) and may want changing.
OMG!!
i didnt follow those rules in the manual from day one because i was so thrilled to ride a 200kg bull !
I accelerated to 4-5k rpms on the highways and 2-3 in the streets. I did this for 9k kilometres and went away from home for two years.
Now after returning back i serviced it and it runs soo smooth now after 12k mark.
Yup they seem to like hard run ins!
Nice! My FJ09 was subjected to a hard break in. As soon as I was away from the dealer, I hit 105 kph in first gear 😁
Hahaha I hear you! I'd say most bikes are like that so why not do it properly!!!
Nice one mate, sweet note, even sweeter Tassie roads, super jealous and homesick.
Been thinking about an Enfield, your comments have given me some food for thought.
Cheers
Thanks mate! You wouldn't regret getting one!!
The big mistake many reviewers do with the Classic 500. is they are using press bikes, which haven't even been broken in yet. And they talk about the vibration as if its a problem. Well perhaps if they got hold of one that had 3000 or 4000km on it they would see its different.
Mine when I got it has 19 km on it. its now at 5250km and its like night and day. I also have a BMW R1150RT and Ducati Scrambler. You can not compare a Royal Enfield Classic 500 to any of these. its a totally different riding experience.
Of all my bikes I have t say, honestly its my personal favorite and most relaxing on mountain roads and even going to and from work. I've even done love trips on it for 1 week or 2 and I find it very comfortable. If I want speed I take my Ducati or BMW.
Bought my 2019 classic 500 two weeks ago with only 400kms, now it has 1100 and vibrates a lot especially between 90 and 110 km/h. After about 115 it gets smoother. I'll try the hard run in tomorrow, thanks for sharing!
Good luck mate!
How did it go?
Nice commentary, and superb sound. I have a 2017 Classic 500 and have been doing something *similar* to this, given that the crazy Manhattan traffic gives me the opportunity to run through the rev range often.
Awesome an RE in NY traffic would be cool. Thanks for checking out my video mate, cheers
I took your advice last year on my duke, it had 2kms when i bought it, now 5,300kms later i'm lovin it. Not a prob through rev range, pity i couldn't do it on my bobber as it's old engine. Thanks for sharing m8.
Cheers mate! Those dukes are such a great bike. Sold mine to get this Enfield! Take care
However you do it is good so long as you vary the revs a lot. People who ride at constant speed at each of the rev limits do more harm than good!
Yeah I agree. I don't see lugging it constantly doing many favours!!
Very interesting, I watched this video yesterday and I tried it today at 220 miles on my new Classic 500. I did it 3 times of hard run in on gear 2/3/4 and I could see significant change in vibrations and power. When I came home, my hands were not numb and I did a longer ride than usual. My question is, is it only required a couple of times? Thanks for sharing!
I did it for about 500km or so it spurts, on and off a few times like you did each ride, but yes it seems to settle in pretty quickly! Good luck!
Believe me or not ! U are lucky to ride this
beautiful bike in this beautiful road !
Yup Tasmania is a beautiful spot for sure. Not much luck in getting the bike as i worked pretty hard to buy it but location super lucky to be riding these roads!
Honest to god I brought mine new and could not believe the vibration.........
I also did it as Paul G did I did take it easy for the first 500 k By 2000k
Was smoothing out , now has 4K
And will Cruz at 110 and can see in the mirrors.....
Yup no matter what technique they do smooth out but the Paul g /Motoman technique seems to work well imo to make them smoother quickly
@@iRidetas - it should be understood that Paul is not an engineer or mechanic but a chap running a holiday let business in Spain with the bikes there as a side benefit attraction, and he has spanish regulations to contend with that effectively prohibit modifications to the bikes.
This engine will run smoother by that mileage anyway but the real trick is to get them running freely over 4000rpm and through the entire power band. A conservative (low) maximum piston speed calculation gives 6800rpm as a realistic read line.
Pretty much like most bikes... mine was first 500 miles. 501 I was on highway! Haha!! (True news) that was a nice place to ride. Reminds me of Lake Placid area, awesome!!
Hehe wasn't that where you and that old woman from golden girls combat a giant alligator!!?? That was a beautiful spot and not disimilar where I was riding
Oh man, my wife finds out you called her “that old woman!” You in trouble!!! Haha!!
(Kidding hun Incase by chance you come across this!)✌️😬
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 lol
If it's like my wife I could admit a affair publicly on my videos and she wouldn't know!!!!! You've got nothing to worry about!!!
Haha!! Oh man, same!!!! 🤦♂️😂
My mates a garage mechanic, he says he has very few problems with high mileage rep cars that have been driven hard from day one.
They don’t burn or leak oil even with high mileages.
They also tend to have noticeably more power and smoother engines.
Low mileage cars that have never been revved are the ones he has the most problems with.
I have a mate who said exactly the same about trucks! Run them in how you ride them!! 👍👍
Got a 2020 C5 classic. Changed the God awful headlamp right out of the gate. I have followed the manuals way of doing things but I think I am going to try your way now. By the way pretty much everybody in the US thinks this bike is a Triumph Hahaha
Yup i found the hard run in worked a treat. Mine is very smooth now
iRidetas I will try it. I have 92 miles on it so far
This is what I’ve always done. 👍
Yup works for me!
What do you think about the carberry vibration reduction plate for Enfield?
I would very much like to review one, I don't have an opinion without trying one sorry mate!
I have fitted one love it
Ive found in the past, if you ride as you would normally ride being run in or not the bike will run better in the long term
Yup I've found exactly the same thing ride it how you do, doesn't pay to baby them!
Hello there. Have you changed exhaust on Doug? It sounds better than before.
I changed audio system for this and the video there after!
@@iRidetas are you planning to change the exhaust system? Apparently, custom ones are about 7 kgs lighter then the original ones.
Yes I've already done it, video out soon
So does that mean I shouldn't follow the manual instructions?
And should I follow this technique after 2000 kms or can I follow it before that?
Please reply mate..
Mine is a classic 350 efi
It is your decision what you do with your bike mate. Ive just spelled out what I did that worked!
He if I am 6,6 tall 198 cm 110kg will I be too big and tall for this bike ?
I have a classic 500 with 13000 km on it. Can this still work?
Lol, um i think its run in by 13000km mate sorry! 👍👍
My work gets new Kensworth trucks every year and the ones that get nursed don't pull worth a damn, whereas the ones the get driven hard from the get go pull like a train. Bikes would be the same I reckon.
That doesnt suprise me mate, run them in how your going to use them has always worked for me! Cheers!
I've always heard break it in the way you intend to ride it...I got my Continental GT with 500 miles (about 800km). Hopped on the expressway and rode about 8 hours north doing 65-70mph (110kmph). Varied the rpms a bit when I could with letting off the throttle and then giving it a nice wrist twist to get back up to speed. I've alt heard these single cyl Enfield really loosen up after some road time and use.
"always heard
That's what I've always done too. Break them in as you ride them! It worked for Doug he is very smooth now! 😁
If you thrash any new motor in you are going to hammer the bearings oval, and you will never have a good motor. With 500 miles on these motors, you can use full throttle, but not full time, 70mph is only fast cruise not full throttle. Whilst these engines are /new/ and still tight, they should be shut off every hour and allowed to cool. Varying the throttle is good. First service at 300 miles is a major full service. Whilst still running in it is probably a good idea to change the oil every 300-500 miles until is stays clean, a lot of swarf and detritus is produced that needs to be removed. By 1000-1200 miles the oil should be remaining clean and so return to normal service programme. When running-in is complete, the engine should be able to rev freely to the limiter.
Mines got quite a bit of vibration coz I ran it in like a pussy, can't see much out of my mirrors, I might get the new royal Enfield trials handle bars one day as they don't ruin the look like a lot of braced bars do.
Yeah mine was a bit buzzy when I got it but it's now very minimal. Think people may be a bit stuck on the old cast iron barrel days. I'm going to have a look at brace bars down the track but they can wreck the looks I agree man!
I went down a different route! Mate but as its run in its very minimal in its vibration
Anyone warning about this method should simply watch fortnine video ua-cam.com/video/u74jYkItdD8/v-deo.html
On the subject. Hard or soft break in is an old debate. He tells you why manufacturers recommend soft. He also shows you how he broke in the last ten bikes this year. For lazy people... a mix. Drive it hard, soft ,cool down rinse and repeat. The key is allow cooldown for hotspots you will get.
I agree, there are many good videos on the subject! 👍👍
Ari Henning from Motorcycle magazine in the garage series also does a fantastic video. 👍