Austin, I'm loving these pipe fence videos! I'm trying to get a few small pipe fence jobs around here and this has been super informative. Thanks for the content! Been binging for like 8 hours today
Great videos. Hard working ppl like you are what makes this country great. Find a way to make $ even when primary oilfield work slows down. Hats off to you.
This man has a great personality and warm genuine soul. I love watching your videos to learn and to feel better when I'm down. I have yet to hear you be negative or angry.....wish I was like you good Sir
Being new to welding (and to your channel) and because it is going to be a second career, I’m entering a little later in life. I really appreciate and admire your insight and humbleness. Keep up the great work!
I just put 420 ft of fence lime this in the front of my place. 5 ft tall though. Im not a welder but my dad was a Texas pipeliner. He passed away 11/18 at 81 yo. He planned to help me but we didnt have a mobile welding machine as he sold his when he retired in 2002. (Still had an 220v cracker box that he could use ac or dc rids with though) A few years before he died he found a 1981 sa200 he bought for $300 that the seller thought was junk. He had it welding after radiator new water pump starter belts hoses boiled out gas tank rebuilt carb new points and rotor plugs wires (!) I found aa new radiator grill to replace the rusted out one. It did all my fence fine and never smoked or burned any oil! (Front seal leaks a but but dont they all? I made a few mistakes on mine, like putting the posts ten ft apart without checking that the pipe dad bought me was cut in 16ft lengths, not 20 ft. It made some of my joints come out in between posts and looked bad on a couple. I ended up scrapping those sections that looked bad and cutting 10 ft pieces so the joint would come out on top of posts. Nice job and youre right about “curb appeal” and eyeballing the fence. I should have done that more when building mine and i wouldnt have had to go back and redo so much. (You would think i would know that from running conduit!) You wasted a bunch of pipe cutting the posts 10 ft though. You should have included more info on cutting the saddles. I had to use a stone in a grinder and open up the long part of the saddle to get it to fit. I used 5//16 6011 rods on mine. I tried some 7018 I had but i couldn’t get it to work as it isn’t fast freezing like 6011 and I’m just a pretend welder! I am a master electrician though! I wish i had the patience and time to video my build but im 49 yo (yesterday!) and did it all by myself. (My wife and 8 yo daughter did help me lay out the holes, but i did all the rest.) It took me about six weekends! Still gotta put up the welded wire, hang the gate i built out of thin wall 2” square tube and three old steel implement wheels, (my daughter helped me paint the frame silver and the wheels red as we both have old farmall tractors!) then put up the ghost controls opener! Ive had several people stop and ask me about building fence for them and i told them they probably couldnt afford what i would charge! Its hard work, especially alone and its not even summer yet!
Austin - I built a steel fence line using 2 7/8” drill stem posts, top, mid, and bottom rails spaced at 21” Centres. The posts are 10 feet in length, on 14 foot centres. We drove the posts with fence post pounder 4 plus feet down. It’s a thing of beauty.
I always joint my top rail at the post with a piece of angle iron clamped over the top. Weld the saddle out remove the angle iron and weld the pipe together. Takes the dogleg out. You do good work.
One thing I've done for marking the height of the top rail it to not set the string on an existing post when making a significant elevation change such as sharp-ish turn up or down hill. I set a t-post or whatever is handy in between two pipe posts to tie off the string. This spread the change over two post and makes it visually more fluid. When tieing to a line post, you'll always be able to look back and see that transition point. Most folks won't notice, but that's just a little extra polishing.
Amen at 7:40 ! Let the fence gradually follow the ground contour , Just like a pipeline . Nice work Austin ! Running single pass with 6011's ? That Oklahoma red clay sure stands out in the video .
My father and I make hay bale feeders for our farm and the amish. We make them from pipe as well. 90 percent of the work is the layout and 10 percent is the welding and cutting. That is one nice fence . Nice video stay safe !
When I have built "No Climb wire mesh" fences for horse paddocks I used pressure treated posts. I painted the buried part with tree rot resist black paint and instead of filling post holes with concrete I poured a thick cap of concrete on bottom then filled middle sections with locally available sandy gravely soil ( if in your work area) then a top cap of concrete just below ground level (make sure caps are sufficient thickness). If the fence ever has to be removed or posts replaced your not wrestling a giant cement "lolly pop" out of ground Just use a sledge to smash the cement caps and wrecking bar to break bottom caps. As long as the fence posts aren't tremendously load bearing this technique works well in saving time/money. And as always install 45 ° angle "dead mans" to counter the pull of stretching the fence.
I been welding up some fence lately and I’m just now using 6010. I have always used 6011 because we generally always used old junk oilfield pipe for corner posts but that 6010 runs way better at least on the new pipe we’ve been using. I almost don’t know how to act getting to weld up new pipe for once. I’m not a professional welder so any little bit I can leverage to make my welds better I’ll do it. Lol
I know lots of people just pour the concrete mix in dry like you are doing but I don’t like doing it that way. We premix all of ours. I think it is much better. We have a skid steer mixer that will hold 18 80 lb bags and has a chute where you can just drive up to the posts and pour. Set the pallets by the water and just drive the skid steer back and forth. Maybe in areas with a lot of ground moisture pouring it in dry works better. Here the ground is powdery dry even 4’ deep. So dry it is hard to clean out the hole with the auger as the powder just falls back in the hole. We built about 1/4 mile of 2-3/8” pipe fence a couple of weeks ago on 8’ centers. We built it a side at a time and set the ~60 posts on each side before noon each day.
Maybe not so much in your sandy soils but here in our black gumbo soils we only put about 8 inches of concrete in bottom of hole posts won't suck out of ground for all the nay Sayers out there start pulling wood posts all of a sudden you get one don't wanna come out and when you do get it out it has a knot or cut of growth on the bottom
Pal of mine builds motorway signs - he's "Mr Motorway Sign" here - his stock in trade is steel pipe. It used be a pretty reasonable commodity. Not now. Now it's eye-watering. I now watch your videos wondering just what they dropped on the steel-stock - using steel prices here as my reference point. It used be "Utility" grade fencing - it's now become "Luxury Grade" here.
Yeah, need a better look at that chopsaw table, come on. I designed my buddies welding bed, complete with stainless accents. Fire engine red with polished stainless. I forgot his chopsaw location, but after seeing yours, I got a great location now. Thanks. 😜😎 we built my 5’ fence, ant the top rail carries the irrigation water, which we tapped for sprinklers. Works great, no leaks, thanks to my pipe fitter buddy.
Love the advice man. I try and follow that to a tee. Weather ita from my physical welds or to my print reading I try to learn something or so a little better then last time!
So to get a good look pleasing to the eye top rail you would measure each post one by one the height you want it at. Mark it.. then run a string line along those marks to see how it would look? I’m building horse stalls rn and trying to figure out the layout
I usually split the last piece of top rail in the middle of a post that way it does 2 things one it keeps the pipe from swelling from heat and second it makes it look a lot better and down in the belly of the top rail blow a couple hole in it over your uprights for weep holes
I I'm working on my pipe fence I cut my Post 7' long make the cut for the top railing set the two corner post first put a string on bottom and one on the top in the center of the pipe the way I can put all my post's to the same high and don't loose any material
Another good video, It would make it easier for yourself if for welding if you ran a Lincoln LN-25 PRO wire feeder with inner shield setup. When I was doing site work here in Australia as a boilermaker certified welder our standard setup on the truck was a Lincoln Vantage 580 with a LN-25 PRO that we could run either inner shield or gas shielded flux core. It made the work so much easier the just stick welding.
A fantastic fence, most pleasing to the eye and a real strong job. In Ireland we would rarely see fences like this. Will you plan on painting this? Exceptional videos and these jobs are daunting, especially under the scrutinising eyes of the the busy road users as well as the thousands who view online! Some comparison to the tatty fence on the other side of the road. Even though the eye can be deceiving, the calibrated eye (which you definitely have) can be an excellent judge, I like the way you step back an look at how the end product is turning out, before it’s too late. Brilliant. A lot of us work too close and can’t see the wood for the trees, the job ends up finished and can sometimes look terrible.
Lol I was wondering the same thing, I was thinking these guys live to close to the oil fields pipe must be cheap lol good looking fence I like your fence building videos
Back when Chino Calif was dairy capital- I welded Corral's at the dairy's , made s decent living for several years, never had any problem collecting my money, those were good days, thanks for the memories,"
Sir I really injoy your fencing video if you ever run across where you have to tie a cross fence in the middle can you show how you would do it.thanks keep up the awesome job
Cut it 10’ , bury 2’ then chop off 4’. But the only issue you mention was the “lil dog leg”. Lol, just trolling you a little. It looked good from our angle. Thanks for the videos and keep dishing out the inspiration!
Austin, love your videos and you attitude! Your fence looks a LOT better than mine. I'm a Texas rancher that's more of a mud robber than a welder and I use oilfield scrap cause it's cheap around here although a little more challenging, especially when it's magnetized. One thing though, seems like you wasted an awful lot of pipe with those run posts.
1/4 mile of 5 barbwire fence, I like like H brace with top rail and a leg down. So three post for one end brace. Cut two at 10 foot and one at 6 foot. All 8 foot a part with 18 foot top rail that also dropship down to last post. All 4 to 5 foot deep in concrete. It will not move in clay or sand. Line pipe post at 3 foot deep. I put them between every 5 or 6 the post. Line post is to keep cattle from pushing over the post. Not fence you built but a fence to brag on.
And, 6 1/2 foot To post. First wire (top wire)at bottom of white and drop six spaces to next. My actual first wire is bottom to line post. In sand keep bottom wire high. Gophers will cover a low wire in few years.
Nice job that red line you had on was it pulled all the way from A to B and if so how did it not sag and all so how did you cut the saddles and how how did you cut them
Thanks for these videos. I’m building a top rail fence like this right now. If you have a downhill slope how do you fish mouth the post top to match the angle for the top rail? Technically you’re cope would have a a shallower side on one side since the top rail is coming over top not at 90 degrees. Any tricks? Thanks
@@arosswelding I actually came up with a good trick for the really steep spots. I keep the string line up and make a mark on the uphill side and downhill side where the strings hits. Then take my clamp on cope pattern and set it on the high side and trace half then the low side and trace half and then all I've got to do is free hand the small spot in between that needs to curve up to the top of cope slope.
Hey Austin sorry for asking to many questions, but one friend ask me to weld some pipe fence, he is going to set the post and I just have to go there and welded the pipe in top of the post, also he want to put some steel remesh sheet.. how much I can charge him per foot or by the hour.. I think is like an Acre.. Also what kind of stick rods can I used for outside processing, if it is windy or the pipe has rust...Thanks for your videos..
Austin your the man , man!!!! I might be getting my feet wet on the pipe fence. Real soon just was wandering if you measure from the ground up on each post and so on?
Austin, I'm loving these pipe fence videos! I'm trying to get a few small pipe fence jobs around here and this has been super informative. Thanks for the content! Been binging for like 8 hours today
Great videos. Hard working ppl like you are what makes this country great. Find a way to make $ even when primary oilfield work slows down. Hats off to you.
This man has a great personality and warm genuine soul. I love watching your videos to learn and to feel better when I'm down. I have yet to hear you be negative or angry.....wish I was like you good Sir
Being new to welding (and to your channel) and because it is going to be a second career, I’m entering a little later in life. I really appreciate and admire your insight and humbleness. Keep up the great work!
How's the journey? 4 years has passed so I'm wondering if you stuck with it.
I just put 420 ft of fence lime this in the front of my place. 5 ft tall though. Im not a welder but my dad was a Texas pipeliner. He passed away 11/18 at 81 yo. He planned to help me but we didnt have a mobile welding machine as he sold his when he retired in 2002. (Still had an 220v cracker box that he could use ac or dc rids with though) A few years before he died he found a 1981 sa200 he bought for $300 that the seller thought was junk. He had it welding after radiator new water pump starter belts hoses boiled out gas tank rebuilt carb new points and rotor plugs wires (!) I found aa new radiator grill to replace the rusted out one. It did all my fence fine and never smoked or burned any oil! (Front seal leaks a but but dont they all? I made a few mistakes on mine, like putting the posts ten ft apart without checking that the pipe dad bought me was cut in 16ft lengths, not 20 ft. It made some of my joints come out in between posts and looked bad on a couple. I ended up scrapping those sections that looked bad and cutting 10 ft pieces so the joint would come out on top of posts. Nice job and youre right about “curb appeal” and eyeballing the fence. I should have done that more when building mine and i wouldnt have had to go back and redo so much. (You would think i would know that from running conduit!) You wasted a bunch of pipe cutting the posts 10 ft though. You should have included more info on cutting the saddles. I had to use a stone in a grinder and open up the long part of the saddle to get it to fit. I used 5//16 6011 rods on mine. I tried some 7018 I had but i couldn’t get it to work as it isn’t fast freezing like 6011 and I’m just a pretend welder! I am a master electrician though! I wish i had the patience and time to video my build but im 49 yo (yesterday!) and did it all by myself. (My wife and 8 yo daughter did help me lay out the holes, but i did all the rest.) It took me about six weekends! Still gotta put up the welded wire, hang the gate i built out of thin wall 2” square tube and three old steel implement wheels, (my daughter helped me paint the frame silver and the wheels red as we both have old farmall tractors!) then put up the ghost controls opener! Ive had several people stop and ask me about building fence for them and i told them they probably couldnt afford what i would charge! Its hard work, especially alone and its not even summer yet!
That is so good that you are showing people how to fence
You’re an awesome dude. Great attitude. I’m sure that’s why you always have work. I got to do a lot of pipe fence last year. I really enjoy it.
Nice to go back and watch your older video.. keep up the good work
Absolutely top notch work. So professional. You take ownership of every detail.
Sweet looking fence. Another post commented on your great attitude! I'll second that. I would have liked to see one close up of you cutting a saddle.
Austin - I built a steel fence line using 2 7/8” drill stem posts, top, mid, and bottom rails spaced at 21” Centres. The posts are 10 feet in length, on 14 foot centres. We drove the posts with fence post pounder 4 plus feet down. It’s a thing of beauty.
You are very professional and honest.
I'm glad you're still working. I like all of the different types of hustle people in the welding industry are showing. Burn and earn!!!
Every time I learn more and more Thank you
Pipe line welding stuff is cool but i really like the real life applications like this that i may actually do my self...thanks for sharing
I'm doing this same job right now. Posts and top rail just about done. Starting the center and bottom rail tomorrow. My God man, its unending!
Brings back memories. I sarted running pipe fence in east TX. in 1984. Back then 2 3/8 X 21ft pipe was $11. a stick.
I always joint my top rail at the post with a piece of angle iron clamped over the top. Weld the saddle out remove the angle iron and weld the pipe together. Takes the dogleg out. You do good work.
Nice tip.
Im glad your getting some work your way during these times
Man you are a very good worker you have a good disposition thanks for sharing
Hey Austin , I like your string stretch brake , I tried it and it saved me time , thank you . I love watching your videos ,slot to learn from .👍
Now would be the perfect time to start that podcast.
One thing I've done for marking the height of the top rail it to not set the string on an existing post when making a significant elevation change such as sharp-ish turn up or down hill. I set a t-post or whatever is handy in between two pipe posts to tie off the string. This spread the change over two post and makes it visually more fluid. When tieing to a line post, you'll always be able to look back and see that transition point. Most folks won't notice, but that's just a little extra polishing.
yes make the joints on top of the post is always the best good work!!we like the swing table for the Cop saw
Austin thank you for making this.
You gotta show us that little swing out chopsaw table, come on
It's a joy. Just about done with a 13,000ft job in wyoming
Amen at 7:40 ! Let the fence gradually follow the ground contour , Just like a pipeline . Nice work Austin ! Running single pass with 6011's ? That Oklahoma red clay sure stands out in the video .
You can always tell you're in western Oklahoma cuz of the red dirt,miss it so..
You need to make a shirt that says “come on” I would buy that!
Fab Work same!
I agree, and apparatus
Cmon
Me too!!
Same!
You do excellent work. You’re very particular just like most expert craftsman. Keep up the great work! C’mon!
I never knew their would be that much of that kind of fence to build. Awesome
Looking really good can wait to see it finished be safe
Really enjoying this series !
Great bit of work. Nice run...flows well from the road.
Austin, make your welds in the middle of a post if you can and your top rail will stay truer.
Good video , my amigo ... You always have a good attitude showing us the things you do ...
My father and I make hay bale feeders for our farm and the amish. We make them from pipe as well. 90 percent of the work is the layout and 10 percent is the welding and cutting. That is one nice fence . Nice video stay safe !
When I have built "No Climb wire mesh" fences for horse paddocks I used pressure treated posts. I painted the buried part with tree rot resist black paint and instead of filling post holes with concrete I poured a thick cap of concrete on bottom then filled middle sections with locally available sandy gravely soil ( if in your work area) then a top cap of concrete just below ground level (make sure caps are sufficient thickness). If the fence ever has to be removed or posts replaced your not wrestling a giant cement "lolly pop" out of ground Just use a sledge to smash the cement caps and wrecking bar to break bottom caps. As long as the fence posts aren't tremendously load bearing this technique works well in saving time/money. And as always install 45 ° angle "dead mans" to counter the pull of stretching the fence.
I been welding up some fence lately and I’m just now using 6010. I have always used 6011 because we generally always used old junk oilfield pipe for corner posts but that 6010 runs way better at least on the new pipe we’ve been using. I almost don’t know how to act getting to weld up new pipe for once. I’m not a professional welder so any little bit I can leverage to make my welds better I’ll do it. Lol
I know lots of people just pour the concrete mix in dry like you are doing but I don’t like doing it that way. We premix all of ours. I think it is much better. We have a skid steer mixer that will hold 18 80 lb bags and has a chute where you can just drive up to the posts and pour. Set the pallets by the water and just drive the skid steer back and forth. Maybe in areas with a lot of ground moisture pouring it in dry works better. Here the ground is powdery dry even 4’ deep. So dry it is hard to clean out the hole with the auger as the powder just falls back in the hole. We built about 1/4 mile of 2-3/8” pipe fence a couple of weeks ago on 8’ centers. We built it a side at a time and set the ~60 posts on each side before noon each day.
Good looking fence my friend👌
Maybe not so much in your sandy soils but here in our black gumbo soils we only put about 8 inches of concrete in bottom of hole posts won't suck out of ground for all the nay Sayers out there start pulling wood posts all of a sudden you get one don't wanna come out and when you do get it out it has a knot or cut of growth on the bottom
Pal of mine builds motorway signs - he's "Mr Motorway Sign" here - his stock in trade is steel pipe. It used be a pretty reasonable commodity. Not now. Now it's eye-watering.
I now watch your videos wondering just what they dropped on the steel-stock - using steel prices here as my reference point. It used be "Utility" grade fencing - it's now become "Luxury Grade" here.
2:40 oak-lah-oooma lmao the way you said that made me chuckle
Yeah, need a better look at that chopsaw table, come on. I designed my buddies welding bed, complete with stainless accents. Fire engine red with polished stainless. I forgot his chopsaw location, but after seeing yours, I got a great location now. Thanks. 😜😎 we built my 5’ fence, ant the top rail carries the irrigation water, which we tapped for sprinklers. Works great, no leaks, thanks to my pipe fitter buddy.
Love the advice man. I try and follow that to a tee. Weather ita from my physical welds or to my print reading I try to learn something or so a little better then last time!
Enjoyed the video as always and great advice at the end. Enjoy your weekend and look forward to the video next week.
Thanks for making this video Austin! Good stuff
Thats a steady hand on the coffee :)
When doing a1/2 mile or more it makes the day easy to get a ready mix truck. Have set a mile before lunch with 2 people
Easier for who? I drive ready mix. Believe it or not, post holes are tricky for the driver.
@@dougdouglass1248 believe it our not I hold a CDL to have been on both sides. Only a steering wheel holder would think it would be hard
So to get a good look pleasing to the eye top rail you would measure each post one by one the height you want it at. Mark it.. then run a string line along those marks to see how it would look? I’m building horse stalls rn and trying to figure out the layout
I usually split the last piece of top rail in the middle of a post that way it does 2 things one it keeps the pipe from swelling from heat and second it makes it look a lot better and down in the belly of the top rail blow a couple hole in it over your uprights for weep holes
I I'm working on my pipe fence I cut my Post 7' long make the cut for the top railing set the two corner post first put a string on bottom and one on the top in the center of the pipe the way I can put all my post's to the same high and don't loose any material
Your videos mean a lot to me and I’m sure others as well buddy. Keep up the awesome work🔥🔥🔥
I drove by there when I was going to the river with my boy's.
Austin I absolutely love your videos, keep it up 🤙🏻
Very good job on your saddles
Loving the farm vlogs. Keep em up!
Another good video, It would make it easier for yourself if for welding if you ran a Lincoln LN-25 PRO wire feeder with inner shield setup. When I was doing site work here in Australia as a boilermaker certified welder our standard setup on the truck was a Lincoln Vantage 580 with a LN-25 PRO that we could run either inner shield or gas shielded flux core. It made the work so much easier the just stick welding.
You did a good job staying clean, haha! Fence looks good too, lol. Nice job.
Awesome video!
Love your videos! Mind boggling how you can make those saddles. You make it look so easy.
Ooooooey its chilli here in Oklahoma.. come own 🤣🤣🤣🤣 I about died laughing
Try mig wire for a string line. Let your weld supplier know if they get one with a busted spool or something you want it.
Really good information for this first time I like it thanks!
A fantastic fence, most pleasing to the eye and a real strong job. In Ireland we would rarely see fences like this. Will you plan on painting this? Exceptional videos and these jobs are daunting, especially under the scrutinising eyes of the the busy road users as well as the thousands who view online! Some comparison to the tatty fence on the other side of the road. Even though the eye can be deceiving, the calibrated eye (which you definitely have) can be an excellent judge, I like the way you step back an look at how the end product is turning out, before it’s too late. Brilliant. A lot of us work too close and can’t see the wood for the trees, the job ends up finished and can sometimes look terrible.
Maybe them 10ft’ers were bit to long. End product looks good
Ya, had a mis communication, planned on going deeper with the holes.
Lol I was wondering the same thing, I was thinking these guys live to close to the oil fields pipe must be cheap lol good looking fence I like your fence building videos
@@arosswelding what rod did you use to make it
Great work!
Great video, mad skills. So much fencing to do and so little time. New follower.
Sorry if it's been asked before, but what is the chop saw you prefer? Thanks!
I’ve been using evolution. I like it.
How do you bid that type of work by the ft or tnm ?
Nice job 👍🏼
Back when Chino Calif was dairy capital-
I welded Corral's at the dairy's , made s decent living for several years, never had any
problem collecting my money, those were good days, thanks for the memories,"
Keith McMullin how much would you charge for a project like that?
Great looking fence buddy 👌. Don't forget the close up shots on the next video 👌😎.
Great fence Austin! But one little tip is tack the pipe while putting the top rail on because sometimes the pipe will fall off.
Sir I really injoy your fencing video if you ever run across where you have to tie a cross fence in the middle can you show how you would do it.thanks keep up the awesome job
Cut it 10’ , bury 2’ then chop off 4’. But the only issue you mention was the “lil dog leg”. Lol, just trolling you a little. It looked good from our angle. Thanks for the videos and keep dishing out the inspiration!
Ya... had a little mis communication... planned on going deeper with the holes
Austin, love your videos and you attitude! Your fence looks a LOT better than mine. I'm a Texas rancher that's more of a mud robber than a welder and I use oilfield scrap cause it's cheap around here although a little more challenging, especially when it's magnetized. One thing though, seems like you wasted an awful lot of pipe with those run posts.
You sir just got a new subscriber
Thanks! It’s much appreciated
1/4 mile of 5 barbwire fence, I like like H brace with top rail and a leg down. So three post for one end brace. Cut two at 10 foot and one at 6 foot. All 8 foot a part with 18 foot top rail that also dropship down to last post. All 4 to 5 foot deep in concrete. It will not move in clay or sand. Line pipe post at 3 foot deep. I put them between every 5 or 6 the post. Line post is to keep cattle from pushing over the post. Not fence you built but a fence to brag on.
And, 6 1/2 foot To post. First wire (top wire)at bottom of white and drop six spaces to next. My actual first wire is bottom to line post. In sand keep bottom wire high. Gophers will cover a low wire in few years.
What made you buy a single cab Cummins instead of a crew cab Cummins?
Hey how do you line them up so perfect and how do you get the pipe in the ground
Great video! Thanks!
What’s something like this cost? Beautiful work.
Very awesome video dude!! Absolutely love this sort of work.
also cool tip on the electric fence line.
Watching from 🇨🇦☕️☕️☕️
Nice job that red line you had on was it pulled all the way from A to B and if so how did it not sag and all so how did you cut the saddles and how how did you cut them
Thanks for these videos. I’m building a top rail fence like this right now. If you have a downhill slope how do you fish mouth the post top to match the angle for the top rail? Technically you’re cope would have a a shallower side on one side since the top rail is coming over top not at 90 degrees. Any tricks? Thanks
That’s exactly right! It would be shallower on one side. I normally just eyeball it.
@@arosswelding I actually came up with a good trick for the really steep spots. I keep the string line up and make a mark on the uphill side and downhill side where the strings hits. Then take my clamp on cope pattern and set it on the high side and trace half then the low side and trace half and then all I've got to do is free hand the small spot in between that needs to curve up to the top of cope slope.
I noticed you were measuring from the road to your fence posts. How far from the road do you put the fence?
You need a pipe notcher, eliminates a lot of saddle cutting....cut/ order post to length... good job!
Also, what range might a guy charge for this kind of job if he supplied the machine and rods?
Good job bro👍
Looks great 👍
Well by gollies Austin. How do make those saddle marks? By eye?
Hey Austin sorry for asking to many questions, but one friend ask me to weld some pipe fence, he is going to set the post and I just have to go there and welded the pipe in top of the post, also he want to put some steel remesh sheet.. how much I can charge him per foot or by the hour.. I think is like an Acre.. Also what kind of stick rods can I used for outside processing, if it is windy or the pipe has rust...Thanks for your videos..
The post are on concrete. I’ve seen some that are hammered down hydraulically.
Which one is better?
How do you get all the saddles square? Do you mark the center from the side going off the post that was already there?
Austin your the man , man!!!!
I might be getting my feet wet on the pipe fence. Real soon just was wandering if you measure from the ground up on each post and so on?
I know this video is older, bu how many work hours do you get out of the torch tanks you have on your rig? And About what size are they?
Are expansion joints needed on this. My black painted railings move all over the place in the hot sun if I don't make a moving joint every 30 feet.
Good show mate
what quick disconnects do you recommend for the torch? Also where do you get the bottle valve guards?