So many great ideas John - I have saved this video to come back and rewatch again for further inspiration 🙌 I am a food / product / branding portraits photographer and I have had the Godox SA-P1 + SA-17 projecter/optical snoot for a year or so now. I use it quite often for food + product images (typically either with leaves and blinds gobos) and absolutely love the results. Seeing your video makes me want to start using it also for my branding portraits. Thanks again so much for your inspiration (as always a win til visit your UA-cam Channel John ☺)
I recently bought optical snoot and used it on a shoot yesterday. Such a good coincidence☺. Brand and model: Ambitful Al-16. It has a 16mm lens on it, but I couldn't get the result I wanted. Maybe it's because I'm a newbie 😃 I'll watch your video again to learn new techniques. Thank you for the wonderful sharing. Greetings from Istanbul 🤓
Thank you for such great tutorial John. Recently joined a group of friend to have access to studio regularly and also purchased an optical snoot to practice. Hope to see you back in Los Angeles again soon for another workshop.
I purchased the Godox BFP for flash. It includes an 85 mm lens and the head rotated so you do not have to keep taking out and putting back the gobo to get it to sit the way you would like. I also purchased the 65 mm lens which is better for backgrounds. For constant light I use on amaran C300 light and their Amaran Spotlight SE. It is also good but I prefer the Godox unit. They also make a Godox version for LED lights.
Interesting results, I have not had the same issue with needing high power to make up for light loss. Since these are lenses vs just cutting the light into shape like a basic snoot, it tends to concentrate the light and not lose much. I use the Godox ones and I find that an AD200 or a 60W LED are both plenty of power. But I also don't try to overpower the key light with this, it's more of a subtle accent in most cases.
20:45 - There's a "Rosco V-Hazer, 240v" on Adorama that Lindsay uses that she recommends and it's far cheaper. It produces haze though and not a thick fog or anything of that degree.
If you want a cheaper but still pretty great option, check out the Antari Fazer, it’s supposed to be a mixture of a fog and haze machine, but to be honest, it works just like a haze machine for me, uses water based liquid (which is safe for actors/models/singers), well constructed and well priced. I believe Antari is a well recognized brand in the DJ/show space, so it’s not just a cheap unit.
i diy one from old lens and pvc pipe,you can also make haze with the smoke machine, close the windows, A.C.,doors,give a little smoke, spread it with a cardboard and wait for it to settle
Another great video 😊 I have a cheap version that suffers with terrible chromatic abberations. My Godox Bfp is much better, higher quality, choice of lenses and the shaping blades. The creative options are endless so highly recommend photographers give them a go if they get the chance.
7:26 I like to add, use your Canon lenses at your own risk. It’s possible that the heat from the concentrated light can burn the aperture blades inside the lenses. I read it somewhere. If I’m wrong don’t hesitate to correct me.
Hi John! I’ve watched many of your videos and this is another “must see and save”. One question. I own one of the generic snoots, and as you mention, it really cuts a lot of light/power. I was wondering what if the frosted crystal is removed. Since it would mean breaking it, I wanted to know if you (or anyone else) had done so. Thanks
So many great ideas John - I have saved this video to come back and rewatch again for further inspiration 🙌 I am a food / product / branding portraits photographer and I have had the Godox SA-P1 + SA-17 projecter/optical snoot for a year or so now. I use it quite often for food + product images (typically either with leaves and blinds gobos) and absolutely love the results. Seeing your video makes me want to start using it also for my branding portraits. Thanks again so much for your inspiration (as always a win til visit your UA-cam Channel John ☺)
Thank you so much! I totally get using it for product shots and portraits. I should have mentioned that too. As always thanks for watching!
I recently bought optical snoot and used it on a shoot yesterday. Such a good coincidence☺. Brand and model: Ambitful Al-16. It has a 16mm lens on it, but I couldn't get the result I wanted. Maybe it's because I'm a newbie 😃 I'll watch your video again to learn new techniques. Thank you for the wonderful sharing. Greetings from Istanbul 🤓
Thanks for watching and thanks for your complements! I am sure you’ll get the hang of it. 😊
Love your videos and the behind the scenes, very inspirational. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks! I’m glad you like them!
Thank you for such great tutorial John. Recently joined a group of friend to have access to studio regularly and also purchased an optical snoot to practice. Hope to see you back in Los Angeles again soon for another workshop.
Thanks and congratulations! I hope to see you soon.
Thanks Than and congratulations! I hope to see you again soon.
I purchased the Godox BFP for flash. It includes an 85 mm lens and the head rotated so you do not have to keep taking out and putting back the gobo to get it to sit the way you would like. I also purchased the 65 mm lens which is better for backgrounds. For constant light I use on amaran C300 light and their Amaran Spotlight SE. It is also good but I prefer the Godox unit. They also make a Godox version for LED lights.
Thanks. I should have mentioned that mine rotates too.
Interesting results, I have not had the same issue with needing high power to make up for light loss. Since these are lenses vs just cutting the light into shape like a basic snoot, it tends to concentrate the light and not lose much. I use the Godox ones and I find that an AD200 or a 60W LED are both plenty of power. But I also don't try to overpower the key light with this, it's more of a subtle accent in most cases.
Cool. Good to know. For close ups 200 would be more than enough as a main light too.
20:45 - There's a "Rosco V-Hazer, 240v" on Adorama that Lindsay uses that she recommends and it's far cheaper. It produces haze though and not a thick fog or anything of that degree.
Oh that’s great to know! I’ll check it out.
If you want a cheaper but still pretty great option, check out the Antari Fazer, it’s supposed to be a mixture of a fog and haze machine, but to be honest, it works just like a haze machine for me, uses water based liquid (which is safe for actors/models/singers), well constructed and well priced. I believe Antari is a well recognized brand in the DJ/show space, so it’s not just a cheap unit.
i diy one from old lens and pvc pipe,you can also make haze with the smoke machine, close the windows, A.C.,doors,give a little smoke, spread it with a cardboard and wait for it to settle
Nice! I could see that working!
Another great video 😊 I have a cheap version that suffers with terrible chromatic abberations. My Godox Bfp is much better, higher quality, choice of lenses and the shaping blades. The creative options are endless so highly recommend photographers give them a go if they get the chance.
Thanks!
7:26 I like to add, use your Canon lenses at your own risk. It’s possible that the heat from the concentrated light can burn the aperture blades inside the lenses. I read it somewhere. If I’m wrong don’t hesitate to correct me.
Oh! Well my halogen modeling lamp did melt the plastic back of my nifty 50 which proceeded to fall off.
Hi John!
I’ve watched many of your videos and this is another “must see and save”. One question. I own one of the generic snoots, and as you mention, it really cuts a lot of light/power. I was wondering what if the frosted crystal is removed. Since it would mean breaking it, I wanted to know if you (or anyone else) had done so. Thanks
Good question. It does seem like that would help. But then I think maybe there is a reason it’s there.
Thank you so much!
Subscribe button is disable ??? Why
Are you trying to click on the icon on screen or under the video?
Great
Thanks!
GoBO stands for "GOes Before Optics" (the optics being the focusing arrangement on the front of the projector).
Optics aren’t required for something to be a gobo. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gobo_(lighting)
GOBO stands for Go Between Objects.
although super creepy, this video has a ton of good info
Thanks. I guess🤷🏻♂️
@@hellohogo Creepy how?
I have the Apature Mini and Godox projector / gobo mounts. The Apature is night and day better than the Godox, and I generally like Godox products.
When I have thousands of dollars to spend on light filters I’ll come back to this
Great
Thanks!