EZ Solar Junction Box- geni.us/15JdSl1 Calculate Solar Cost For Your Home - geni.us/solar_reviews WAGO 613 Lever Nuts - geni.us/3QQS1v Gland Connectors Kit Used - geni.us/QZq8yiR Better Gland Connectors - geni.us/qpbAhb2 TopSpeed Parts: geni.us/tsjA8g TopSpeed Config Tool (Need To Create An Account): geni.us/b7GAO DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I am a solar installer in west central Illinois and think you do a wonderful job at explaining things in your videos. I think you are located near UofI which is were I went and my son is currently attending. Anyway, one thing I noticed is the cable glands looked like they were for a single wire. I am no expert, but when I run PV wires into a box on the roof, I use cable glands that are multi wire glands so they seal tight on each wire. For some reason the popular ones seem to come in odd number of holes but maybe for 2-4 PV wires and a ground. The ones I use also have a thin layer over the hole that can be pierced which is nice so that if you have one that is 5 holes but only need 3 or 4, then the other holes are still sealed. They are more expensive, but one example is a Heyco M8437GBK-SM. Just a thought and maybe you have used them before.
Hey Jeff, yeah we are also central Illinois just on the other side close to Champaign. Thanks for the heads up on the Heyco glands and agree the multi hole would make a better seal as compared to the ones I used. Go Illini 🔶🔷
So what he is saying is he has to ENTIRELY REBUILD the "EZ Solar Junction Box" to force it to work. What a horrible design unless they give them away for free. You have to spend 20 minutes (So $80 of labor) and a half dozen tools to make the box work and don't crack that super-thin plastic or you are done for the day and out several hundred dollars..
Pretty cool box! Wish I had had that for my installation. The AltE Store sells grommets that have an insert with different numbers of holes. That's the proper way to run multiple wires through a single grommet. A single hole can't make a good connection arount two wires.
Thanks for doing this properly, right down to using metallic conduit which is required inside of a structure for PV/DC power lines inside of a structure. So many people use PVC which is not allowed under the NEC when inside a structure. Yes this is a detached garage with no living space so it could be argued it's not needed but no one wants their garage to burn down if a wire insulation was damaged. DC arcs are no joke.
So what he is saying is he has to ENTIRELY REBUILD the "EZ Solar Junction Box" to force it to work. What a horrible design unless they give them away for free. You have to spend 20 minutes (So $80 of labor) and a half dozen tools to make the box work and don't crack that super-thin plastic or you are done for the day and out several hundred dollars...
Another very helpful video, thanks! I have heard of the need (safety, code) for a ground for solar systems even for a setup on a shed and yours is the first video I have seen that actually implements one. The use of Wago wire nuts in the protected confines of the EZ Solar enclosure was helpful to emphasize that you really only need the MC4 connectors where the connections are exposed to weather. I agree with other comments that EZ Solar (and Soladeck also probably) needs to up their game on the box so users don't have to drill so many holes in it to actually use it. There is so much to be learned from these videos and the helpful comments - for multi-wire gland nuts and on protecting the exposed cable between the panel and the junction box, electrical tape on the Wagos...
My company installs the ez solar j boxes under the panels for a cleaner look, also you should have some type of conduit around the open circuits. And you should put electrical tape around the wago so the doors don’t accidentally open
Yeah, that would make for a much cleaner install. Eventually I will probably add another row of 3 so the box will be under the panel in that configuration.
Nice clean installation. In my state (NY), DC on or in buildings, has to be in steel. So you'd use a flashed steel roof junction box that meets UL50 and UL1741, and steel conduit.
The gland isn't going to make a water tight seal if you put two cable in it. Also it's a good idea to use shrink wrap tubing around the ground wire area where the gland is.
Shouldn't you have conduit over the wires from where they leave the panels going to where they enter the box? This would minimize UV exposure, keep them from being exposed to nature (shifting snow, ice, and squirrels that might decide to chew on them!), and also keep them from chaffing against those panel mounts.
Looks like a perfect place for plastic split wire loom. Used frequently in boat wiring, it’s easy to install and very flexible. I’m a 14 year marine electrician, and have installed several yacht solar systems.
@@markjohnston5945 It typically doesn't hold up all that well to long term UV (and heat) exposure, but I'm sure it would hold up for several years. Some protection is better than none, but I would think conduit would be the way to go here for long term durability.
I would be concerned about the wind and abrasive roof surface wearing down the insulation. Split loom or similar is a decent middle ground. Conduit for a run that small would need to be secured to the roof somehow and that's a pain for such a short run. It should be noted that exposed pvwire needs to be supported and secured every 2ft per the 2020 NEC 690.31(c)(1). Installing the junction box closer to the array might have been the best solution. Less exposed wire.
@@everydaysolarbro I am a solar technician by trade. First off, we don’t run exposed PV wire EVER, It looks bad. You should also be installing the Soladeck/Jbox underneath a panel so that it’s hidden from view, that way you can run exposed PV wire underneath the panels attached to the racking and protect it from debris. If you do run it outside of a panel it definitely needs to be in conduit.
What kind of impact would this have on when the roof eventually needs to be reshingled? Would they just reshingle around it or remove, reshingle, and put it back?
Did this garage install require a permit? Just wondering cause I am thinking of doing exactly the same thing in OH. You didn't mention any permits (at least in this video). I may have missed this info from a previous video.
Most cities installing panels on a roof would require a permit from building code and electrical code. The requirements will vary significantly depending on your location and which year of the code book is being implemented.
The permitting process in my state is very comprehensive. (NY) It includes Electrical code, Building structural code, NFPA-1 compliant Firefighter pathway requirements, Rapid Shutdown System on a roof array... and if there's DC on or in the building, it has to be in steel. No DC in PCV! That would include that roof junction box. You can get them in steel.
So what he is saying is he has to ENTIRELY REBUILD the "EZ Solar Junction Box" to force it to work. What a horrible design unless they give them away for free. You have to spend 20 minutes (So $80 of labor) and a half dozen tools to make the box work and don't crack that super-thin plastic or you are done for the day and out several hundred dollars.
EZ Solar Junction Box- geni.us/15JdSl1
Calculate Solar Cost For Your Home - geni.us/solar_reviews
WAGO 613 Lever Nuts - geni.us/3QQS1v
Gland Connectors Kit Used - geni.us/QZq8yiR
Better Gland Connectors - geni.us/qpbAhb2
TopSpeed Parts: geni.us/tsjA8g
TopSpeed Config Tool (Need To Create An Account): geni.us/b7GAO
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I am a solar installer in west central Illinois and think you do a wonderful job at explaining things in your videos. I think you are located near UofI which is were I went and my son is currently attending. Anyway, one thing I noticed is the cable glands looked like they were for a single wire. I am no expert, but when I run PV wires into a box on the roof, I use cable glands that are multi wire glands so they seal tight on each wire. For some reason the popular ones seem to come in odd number of holes but maybe for 2-4 PV wires and a ground. The ones I use also have a thin layer over the hole that can be pierced which is nice so that if you have one that is 5 holes but only need 3 or 4, then the other holes are still sealed. They are more expensive, but one example is a Heyco M8437GBK-SM. Just a thought and maybe you have used them before.
Hey Jeff, yeah we are also central Illinois just on the other side close to Champaign. Thanks for the heads up on the Heyco glands and agree the multi hole would make a better seal as compared to the ones I used. Go Illini 🔶🔷
So what he is saying is he has to ENTIRELY REBUILD the "EZ Solar Junction Box" to force it to work. What a horrible design unless they give them away for free. You have to spend 20 minutes (So $80 of labor) and a half dozen tools to make the box work and don't crack that super-thin plastic or you are done for the day and out several hundred dollars..
Isn't there a gap between the two + and - cables going through the same hole making a potential for water to get in?
Pretty cool box! Wish I had had that for my installation. The AltE Store sells grommets that have an insert with different numbers of holes. That's the proper way to run multiple wires through a single grommet. A single hole can't make a good connection arount two wires.
Thanks for doing this properly, right down to using metallic conduit which is required inside of a structure for PV/DC power lines inside of a structure. So many people use PVC which is not allowed under the NEC when inside a structure. Yes this is a detached garage with no living space so it could be argued it's not needed but no one wants their garage to burn down if a wire insulation was damaged. DC arcs are no joke.
I was fully prepared to not like this product...but it actually looks perfect for the task! As usual, your video production quality was excellent.
Thanks for the feedback!
So what he is saying is he has to ENTIRELY REBUILD the "EZ Solar Junction Box" to force it to work. What a horrible design unless they give them away for free. You have to spend 20 minutes (So $80 of labor) and a half dozen tools to make the box work and don't crack that super-thin plastic or you are done for the day and out several hundred dollars...
Another very helpful video, thanks! I have heard of the need (safety, code) for a ground for solar systems even for a setup on a shed and yours is the first video I have seen that actually implements one. The use of Wago wire nuts in the protected confines of the EZ Solar enclosure was helpful to emphasize that you really only need the MC4 connectors where the connections are exposed to weather. I agree with other comments that EZ Solar (and Soladeck also probably) needs to up their game on the box so users don't have to drill so many holes in it to actually use it. There is so much to be learned from these videos and the helpful comments - for multi-wire gland nuts and on protecting the exposed cable between the panel and the junction box, electrical tape on the Wagos...
My company installs the ez solar j boxes under the panels for a cleaner look, also you should have some type of conduit around the open circuits. And you should put electrical tape around the wago so the doors don’t accidentally open
Yeah, that would make for a much cleaner install. Eventually I will probably add another row of 3 so the box will be under the panel in that configuration.
Nice clean installation. In my state (NY), DC on or in buildings, has to be in steel. So you'd use a flashed steel roof junction box that meets UL50 and UL1741, and steel conduit.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
The gland isn't going to make a water tight seal if you put two cable in it. Also it's a good idea to use shrink wrap tubing around the ground wire area where the gland is.
Thanks for video, I wonder why you do not install that box closer to PV array like at your knee? No protecting conduit?
I should have made that clearer. I will most likely put in another row of 3 panels so it will actually be covered up by the last row I set. 👍
So like where does that ground go to on the attic side?
Shouldn't you have conduit over the wires from where they leave the panels going to where they enter the box? This would minimize UV exposure, keep them from being exposed to nature (shifting snow, ice, and squirrels that might decide to chew on them!), and also keep them from chaffing against those panel mounts.
I am sure there are a few different ways to make the jump but since these are PV wires they should hold up to the elements including UV.
Looks like a perfect place for plastic split wire loom. Used frequently in boat wiring, it’s easy to install and very flexible. I’m a 14 year marine electrician, and have installed several yacht solar systems.
@@markjohnston5945 It typically doesn't hold up all that well to long term UV (and heat) exposure, but I'm sure it would hold up for several years. Some protection is better than none, but I would think conduit would be the way to go here for long term durability.
I would be concerned about the wind and abrasive roof surface wearing down the insulation. Split loom or similar is a decent middle ground.
Conduit for a run that small would need to be secured to the roof somehow and that's a pain for such a short run.
It should be noted that exposed pvwire needs to be supported and secured every 2ft per the 2020 NEC 690.31(c)(1). Installing the junction box closer to the array might have been the best solution. Less exposed wire.
@@everydaysolarbro I am a solar technician by trade. First off, we don’t run exposed PV wire EVER, It looks bad. You should also be installing the Soladeck/Jbox underneath a panel so that it’s hidden from view, that way you can run exposed PV wire underneath the panels attached to the racking and protect it from debris. If you do run it outside of a panel it definitely needs to be in conduit.
What kind of impact would this have on when the roof eventually needs to be reshingled? Would they just reshingle around it or remove, reshingle, and put it back?
As usual, awesome video 😊
Thanks so much!
Why didn't you put a bead of sealant where the shingle above the box makes contact with the box's plastic flange?
Did this garage install require a permit? Just wondering cause I am thinking of doing exactly the same thing in OH. You didn't mention any permits (at least in this video). I may have missed this info from a previous video.
Most cities installing panels on a roof would require a permit from building code and electrical code. The requirements will vary significantly depending on your location and which year of the code book is being implemented.
The permitting process in my state is very comprehensive. (NY) It includes Electrical code, Building structural code, NFPA-1 compliant Firefighter pathway requirements, Rapid Shutdown System on a roof array... and if there's DC on or in the building, it has to be in steel. No DC in PCV! That would include that roof junction box. You can get them in steel.
Freaking awesome 👌 video
Thanks!
Shouldn’t you use a ground bushing on that J-box where your bare ground is coming in so you can bond the metal J-box?!
Its a plastic box, not necessary
Yeah I should have called out it was plastic.
It was a plastic box. But if it were a metal box, the attached ground bar would make the bond.
So what he is saying is he has to ENTIRELY REBUILD the "EZ Solar Junction Box" to force it to work. What a horrible design unless they give them away for free. You have to spend 20 minutes (So $80 of labor) and a half dozen tools to make the box work and don't crack that super-thin plastic or you are done for the day and out several hundred dollars.