JB weld has saved me more than once. On time on a Datsun race motor, I broke an exhaust stud while installing the intake manifold. Then I attempted to drill the stud out and slipped with the drill; the drill plunged into the aluminum cylinder head next to the exhaust stud. That certainly helped me remote the exhaust stud, but didn't do much for being able torque down that nut to hold the manifold on. I ended up using JB weld to glue a time-sert sleeve into the void and let it dry for a couple days. This allowed me to thread the stud back in and I was able to torque it down no sweat. That held up until the engine was torn back apart years later. I also recently just used JB weld to repair my deck railing. One of the threaded rods that was sunk into concrete let go. I pulled it out, put JB weld on it, put it back in the hole and let it dry. I was able to torque the nut down and it didn't budge. The high PSI on JB weld can really save you. I was using normal JB weld in those cases, but this high heat one looks great for cylinder block repairs.
Rick Bork has a similar video but he also mentions using brake cleaner then not messing with anything for final surface prep. That’s the only thing I’d add that’s probably helpful. Great video tho, thx 👍
That's a good suggestion. The only thing I would worry about with brake cleaner is that some might stick around in the pits that you're trying to fill. Probably some sort of solvent, followed by warming the block with a torch like you would do before painting, would be the gold standard.
Is there a crack between a water jacket and stud hole at 4:00? Thanks for all your excellent videos! I sure liked the old Snap-On coil/condensor tester with the heater function.
There sure is. A crack leading from the #1 stud bore to either or both of the adjacent water jacket holes is extremely common on Model A blocks. This crack is usually harmless and is not a reason to junk a block or attempt a costly repair. However, one should make sure to coat the coarse threads of the #1 stud in RTV or another suitable sealant. No one knows why this crack occurs so frequently. The most popular theory is that someone in the past torqued the #1 nut to 55 in a single pass, rather than performing a multi-pass sequence.
Did this hold up for this build? I have a thin scratch that catches going up but not going down between a cylinder and the water jacket on my 2007 Chevy Silverado V8 5.3 daily driver. I don't have the means to resurface the deck at a machine shop.
@alexiskai my exhasut manifold fell at an angle, that's how i got that scratch. I think this is why the edge of the scratch is raised higher than the other side. When I ran my nail "up" towards the steering wheel and my nail doesn't catch. Then I ran my nail "down" towards the front of the engine, my nail catches. I tried applying the same force.
Hey brotha. Great video. If u can help me with a few quick questions please. Im a musician and im thinking about using this stuff to fix surface rust and pitting on an vintage steel cowbell im restoring. 1. Can u get this stuff smooth enough to chrome or nickel over and have a smooth mirror finish after? 2. After drying is it even hard enough to rechrome or renickel? Please&Thanks. Your help is greatly appreciated
I think that would work, but I haven't tried. You should email the JB Weld technical department, they answer questions like this. There's another product called Lab-Metal that might also work.
I just fired it up for the first time on Friday. Only did 20 minutes because I'm still breaking in the head gasket. But it held for 20 minutes! I would feel obligated to disclose if things go south in the next few weeks, so I guess stay tuned.
@@alexiskai will do man. Glad to hear it's tracking well for now. I just got a call from my mechanic where I've got some pitting near cyc 6 water gallery. And just trying to find solutions before finding a new block
@@lilSwamyProductionz I picked up this technique from a guy who runs an antique car resto shop in TN, he says it's his go-to for pitting around the exhaust manifold. Anything where it's ultimately going to be under a gasket, I think you should be fine. One other note, I think it continued to cure for at least a week after I applied it. When I was ready to put the head on, a couple weeks later, the color had changed and it was rock hard. So that might be a good finishing step, to just let it air out for a while.
@@alexiskai thanks for the heads up. Thats pretty cool. My builder just said it's to far gone with mine and will need to get it decked. But is what it is. But this is still very cool. I'll keep watching to see the progress
@@lilSwamyProductionz It's probably fine, decking the block is usually a small part of the total cost of a rebuild. One thing you might do is find out from the rebuilder what, if any, the "pop-up" on your pistons will be after the block is decked. Just for your future reference, in case you wind up replacing the head yourself later. My "preflight checklist" video has a section explaining pop-up. Good luck!
Yeah, you can shape it immediately after applying it, or you can wait for it to cure and then sand it, but between those times you should leave it alone.
@@alexiskai how well does this hold up on the head surface of the block? I have a 351c that has a low spot between a cylinder and water jacket where a very slight amount of compression gets into the water jacket.
@@dukelps9132 It will hold up fine on the deck, the only worry is getting the surface perfectly flat. For a small area with a very small gap in a critical spot on the head gasket, I would use Seal-Lock Fluid Weld instead. It will conform to the gap when you put the head gasket on. There's a section of another video here that shows me applying it to fill some low spots on the deck: ua-cam.com/video/QlNYZICv8g0/v-deo.html
JB weld has saved me more than once. On time on a Datsun race motor, I broke an exhaust stud while installing the intake manifold. Then I attempted to drill the stud out and slipped with the drill; the drill plunged into the aluminum cylinder head next to the exhaust stud. That certainly helped me remote the exhaust stud, but didn't do much for being able torque down that nut to hold the manifold on. I ended up using JB weld to glue a time-sert sleeve into the void and let it dry for a couple days. This allowed me to thread the stud back in and I was able to torque it down no sweat. That held up until the engine was torn back apart years later. I also recently just used JB weld to repair my deck railing. One of the threaded rods that was sunk into concrete let go. I pulled it out, put JB weld on it, put it back in the hole and let it dry. I was able to torque the nut down and it didn't budge. The high PSI on JB weld can really save you. I was using normal JB weld in those cases, but this high heat one looks great for cylinder block repairs.
Thanks so much for sharing. This was a lifesaver
Rick Bork has a similar video but he also mentions using brake cleaner then not messing with anything for final surface prep. That’s the only thing I’d add that’s probably helpful. Great video tho, thx 👍
That's a good suggestion. The only thing I would worry about with brake cleaner is that some might stick around in the pits that you're trying to fill. Probably some sort of solvent, followed by warming the block with a torch like you would do before painting, would be the gold standard.
Is there a crack between a water jacket and stud hole at 4:00? Thanks for all your excellent videos! I sure liked the old Snap-On coil/condensor tester with the heater function.
There sure is. A crack leading from the #1 stud bore to either or both of the adjacent water jacket holes is extremely common on Model A blocks. This crack is usually harmless and is not a reason to junk a block or attempt a costly repair. However, one should make sure to coat the coarse threads of the #1 stud in RTV or another suitable sealant. No one knows why this crack occurs so frequently. The most popular theory is that someone in the past torqued the #1 nut to 55 in a single pass, rather than performing a multi-pass sequence.
Did this hold up for this build? I have a thin scratch that catches going up but not going down between a cylinder and the water jacket on my 2007 Chevy Silverado V8 5.3 daily driver. I don't have the means to resurface the deck at a machine shop.
@@writtenpieceopaper1 When you say it catches going up but not down, what do you mean?
@alexiskai my exhasut manifold fell at an angle, that's how i got that scratch. I think this is why the edge of the scratch is raised higher than the other side. When I ran my nail "up" towards the steering wheel and my nail doesn't catch. Then I ran my nail "down" towards the front of the engine, my nail catches. I tried applying the same force.
@@writtenpieceopaper1 And do you have the cast iron or the aluminum block?
Τhis glue is 2 components, if I mix it all in the cup , and I don't use it all, will the rest dry in the cup ?
That hadn't occurred to me at the time, but yes.
Hey brotha. Great video. If u can help me with a few quick questions please. Im a musician and im thinking about using this stuff to fix surface rust and pitting on an vintage steel cowbell im restoring.
1. Can u get this stuff smooth enough to chrome or nickel over and have a smooth mirror finish after?
2. After drying is it even hard enough to rechrome or renickel?
Please&Thanks. Your help is greatly appreciated
I think that would work, but I haven't tried. You should email the JB Weld technical department, they answer questions like this. There's another product called Lab-Metal that might also work.
@@alexiskai ...thanks so much for your help and time
Exelent vídeo ( from Brasil).
Is this motor in and running? Did the jb weld hold?
I just fired it up for the first time on Friday. Only did 20 minutes because I'm still breaking in the head gasket. But it held for 20 minutes! I would feel obligated to disclose if things go south in the next few weeks, so I guess stay tuned.
@@alexiskai will do man. Glad to hear it's tracking well for now. I just got a call from my mechanic where I've got some pitting near cyc 6 water gallery. And just trying to find solutions before finding a new block
@@lilSwamyProductionz I picked up this technique from a guy who runs an antique car resto shop in TN, he says it's his go-to for pitting around the exhaust manifold. Anything where it's ultimately going to be under a gasket, I think you should be fine. One other note, I think it continued to cure for at least a week after I applied it. When I was ready to put the head on, a couple weeks later, the color had changed and it was rock hard. So that might be a good finishing step, to just let it air out for a while.
@@alexiskai thanks for the heads up. Thats pretty cool. My builder just said it's to far gone with mine and will need to get it decked. But is what it is. But this is still very cool. I'll keep watching to see the progress
@@lilSwamyProductionz It's probably fine, decking the block is usually a small part of the total cost of a rebuild. One thing you might do is find out from the rebuilder what, if any, the "pop-up" on your pistons will be after the block is decked. Just for your future reference, in case you wind up replacing the head yourself later. My "preflight checklist" video has a section explaining pop-up. Good luck!
Don't try too shave it when it's half dry. Only work with it when it's wet and leave it alone. It'll just pull the material back out of the pits.
Yeah, you can shape it immediately after applying it, or you can wait for it to cure and then sand it, but between those times you should leave it alone.
@@alexiskai how well does this hold up on the head surface of the block? I have a 351c that has a low spot between a cylinder and water jacket where a very slight amount of compression gets into the water jacket.
@@dukelps9132 It will hold up fine on the deck, the only worry is getting the surface perfectly flat. For a small area with a very small gap in a critical spot on the head gasket, I would use Seal-Lock Fluid Weld instead. It will conform to the gap when you put the head gasket on. There's a section of another video here that shows me applying it to fill some low spots on the deck: ua-cam.com/video/QlNYZICv8g0/v-deo.html
This stuff will crack and turn to crumble pretty quickly