Відео

@@writtenpieceopaper1 When you say it catches going up but not down, what do you mean?

@alexiskai my exhasut manifold fell at an angle, that's how i got that scratch. I think this is why the edge of the scratch is raised higher than the other side. When I ran my nail "up" towards the steering wheel and my nail doesn't catch. Then I ran my nail "down" towards the front of the engine, my nail catches. I tried applying the same force.

​@@writtenpieceopaper1 And do you have the cast iron or the aluminum block?

There's a thing that's true for modern cars and antique cars alike - head gaskets rarely fail for no reason. If you've had two head gaskets fail in the same spot, something's causing it. First place I would look is what's called the faying surfaces, which is the interface between the block and the head. If either the head or the block are warped, the surfaces will not come together properly and the gasket will fail. You need to test the surfaces for flatness. I cover this in my pre-flight checklist video. ua-cam.com/video/UAPdsTg4lbE/v-deo.html

@alexiskai I will watch that and check it out. Thank you for your help!! I can't wait to get my A on the road an driving!

What a nice compliment, thank you.

Awesome. Leave another comment if you hit a wall with the troubleshooting, I'll see if I can help any.

Here is my short guide to condenser testing: 1. Using a meter with a capacitance function, measure the capacitance. Ideal spec is 200-250 nF; up to 350 nF is probably OK if it's stable. 2. Using the resistance function, measure the resistance. You should see the readout gradually increment up until it reaches infinity. If the readout plateaus at some number of ohms, that indicates leakage. 3. Place the condenser and the multimeter in series with a battery and measure the amperage. You should see the amps start at some number and drop to zero. If the amps don't reach zero, that indicates leakage. 4. Heat the condenser gently until it reaches about 150° and repeat tests 1-3.

@@alexiskai Thank you! My capacitor (for a Ford V8) reads .33 microfarads at room temperature. I am heating it in the oven to see how it behaves under heat. I had an ignition failure the other day and swapped coil and capacitor on the road to get home. I am attempting to determine which of the two parts failed (the coil passed the heat test yesterday). The meter to measure capacitance arrived late yesterday so the condenser tests are today. I would not have known how to test the condenser without your video.

@@RAK402 I've heard that new V8 condensers are less reliable these days. Interested to see what you find. I do have a video on testing coils, but for that you need special equipment.

@@alexiskai Thank you again!

I made them, using parts for Model T plug wires. The Winfield high-compression head puts the spark plugs in a different spot than the stock head, so the stock plug connectors won't reach. Had to improvise.

Yeah, check that point gap and alignment.

Sounds great. Sourcing the engine stand adapter is key, and also making or borrowing a frame expander in case you turn out to need one. Also make sure that you've accounted for how you're going to rotate the engine on the stand. Be sure the adapter rotates smoothly in the bore; don't be afraid to apply some axle grease. The transmission and bell housing weigh about 70 lbs, and the stock flywheel weighs 63 lbs. Most people find that removing the transmission and bell housing is necessary to safely manipulate the engine. I recommend doing that with some kind of assistance to support the transmission as you remove it: either get a buddy or use your shop crane. I will have a new video this fall showing the process of tearing down two engines, including stuff like how to get the studs out safely.

Thank you for the additional info. Super helpful as I prepare for this.

@@TitanBodybuilding One clarification, if you're buying a new engine stand adapter, you'll need to drill two sets of holes in it. One is for the locating pin, which inserts down through the top of the stand to hold the engine in a certain orientation. So you gotta put the adapter in your stand and then mark where to drill. Four holes (0°, 90°, 180°, 270°) should be sufficient. Then at the back end of the adapter you need to drill holes through which to insert the bar you'll use to rotate the engine. Most engine stands come with a large hollow bar for this purpose, but you may not have a drill bit big enough to match it. In that case just go buy a piece of round stock 3' long for whatever size drill bit you do have, and use that as your rotating lever. You'll appreciate the extra length.

@@alexiskaithank you. Super helpful. I’m going to pull the engine and transmission and send it out to have it built. You’ve been super helpful and it’s greatly appreciated!

@@TitanBodybuilding Hahaha I see, you don't need any of that engine stand info. Ah well

I agree with you don't check anything just run blindly with everything you do !!!

Yeah I've now reached George RR Martin levels of failing to finish my series. Sorry! I do have a Model B distributor video in the editing booth but it's not the one I promised here.

If it's a lead-acid battery, i.e. a rechargeable one, then applying a higher voltage to a circuit than the battery itself is putting out will essentially charge the battery. That's how you charge the battery on a daily basis - you just put it into a circuit where something else is putting out a higher voltage. You can apply any voltage to the battery, but there are physical limitations to how much it can absorb in a given time. That's why a battery charger will put out only 1-2V above the battery's normal output. Anything above that just becomes heat. But for the fraction of a second that a capacitor is discharging, the battery will happily absorb 200V or whatever it's throwing out.

It doesn't. He confused all the current voltage reversals. The capacitor doesn't charge the battery with a reverse voltage, if it had a higher forward voltage then it might. The coil is disconnected before the reverse voltage spike so that doesn't see the battery.

@@vinnieluther6589 Where does the energy stored in the condenser discharge to when the points open?

@@alexiskai there is no energy in the condenser when the points open. They were shorting across the condenser when closed. If you have an oscilloscope you can probe around to see how this works.

Yeah, if you keep compression under 6:1, the Nu-Rex is a lot more effective.

My first thought is, you might have a centrifugal advance device installed in the valve chamber. Have you had the car a long time? Have you had the valve cover off?

Wanptek DC power supply from Amazon. They make different variants, get one that does 10A. Not just useful for generating 6V power, you can also put variable amps through an ammeter on the bench to test its accuracy and see how much resistance (heat) is generated. www.amazon.com/stores/Wanptek/%E4%B8%BB%E9%A1%B5/page/5D244B99-B3EC-417B-876F-85907F678E2E

This is a modern reproduction of an early speed head, the Winfield 7:1 "red head" - so called because it came painted that color. The Winfield design moves the spark plugs from over the intake valve to between the valves, which means the stock plug connectors don't work anymore, and if your plugs are tall you'll get arcing to the spark advance control rod. It's a powerful head but for my next car I'm switching back to a stock-appearance head.

On later engines, the TDC mark is typically found on the crankshaft pulley. As you know, this pulley makes two revolutions per one four-stroke cycle, so it will be in the same position on the compression and exhaust strokes. That means you always need a second step to determine which stroke you're on. On the Model A, the TDC mark (actually a divot into which a pin drops) is on the camshaft gear, which only makes one revolution per four-stroke cycle. This allowed Ford to place the mark only at compression TDC, simplifying the task of timing the engine. Make sense?

@alexiskai that's fantastic thank you. Makes perfect sense, not sure why i diddnt recognize it. Thank you so much! I googled it and came up empty, and just kept going over it in my mind and got nowhere. Thank you for the videos as well, very helpful. Also going to do king pins on my 1930 so that should be interesting.

@@allhartfidelity Sounds good, make sure you review Tom Endy's advice on the subject. www.santaanitaas.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/King-Pin-Geometry.pdf

I wish I'd gotten farther on the rebuild by now! This engine is still sitting on a stand in the workshop. Too many projects. Hopefully I'll get to it before the end of the year.

There are a lot of people who want the authentic 1928 experience. Myself I want more like a 1936 experience. Luckily there's room in the world for both.

There are lots of ways to remove the engine and that is one of them. My goal in the video was to establish that you can, if necessary, remove the engine and transmission virtually intact by yourself. Leaving the pedals attached did not impede the operation.

I assume you mean the di-electric grease isn't *conductive* - it's a great lubricant. The problem I've always had with the "wireless" lower plates is that the brass tab pushes down on it, and after awhile the flange fatigues and only makes contact with the tab at its highest point. Glad it's working for you though. Maybe greasing the tab helps in some odd way.

Did I say valve cover? Oops. Thanks for the correction.

6:1 is the highest I would go with this accessory, and I would be listening for engine knock under heavy load. If you get knock, I would re-time the engine with the spark lever 1-2 notches down and then either put the lever back at the top full-time (move the entire timing curve down) or be prepared to do so if you hear the knock again. But my understanding is that people do run these with the Snyder's 6:1 heads and it's usually fine.

@@alexiskai Thank you!

Good luck! Let me know how it turns out.

@@alexiskai Will do. Might make a video on it if it’s not too bad. I’ll tag this video of yours if that’s okay with you? Thanks!👊🏻

@@32modelbford39 sure thing. It would be great to have a video on a ‘32 horn so people could see how they’re different from a Model A horn.

Yes, removing only the engine is quite common and somewhat easier. I chose to show the harder version. To remove the engine, you'll need to support the transmission with something - a jack, or blocks - and then disconnect the bell housing from the flywheel housing. As you pull the engine forward and up, the splined main drive gear should slide out of the flywheel and release the engine from the transmission. Good luck!

I made them, using Model T parts from Snyder's. They carry something very similar, pre-made, as part #T-5029-BS. However those wires are a lot longer. I bought the wire and the brass connectors separately, cut the wire to the length I needed for each plug, and used a large pair of pliers to bend and crimp the connectors.

Thank you@@alexiskai

The only one you maybe need to put a little oomph into is the cam screw. Otherwise hand tight should be fine. I tend to cut the parts where I'm attaching screws - first because I'm sort of a clumsy guy and second because the overhead camera means I would need to hold the workpiece at an odd angle so you could see what I was doing.

I think I agree with all this? What's the timestamp of the part you thought needed more clarity?

@@alexiskai I must have cut to your video on Condenser Testing and Theory that you mention at ~ 32:14. In that video, when you describe the function of the condenser, I believe you may be conflating its function with the capacitors in a Capacitive Discharge Ignition. In the Kettering system the sole function of the condenser is to absorb the energy as the points open so they don't arc. You are correct in that no current flows into the condenser because it represents a higher resistance than the closed points. Once the points begin to open the current flows into the condenser instead of arcing across the small space between the points. When the current stops flowing into the condenser the magnetic field suddenly collapses and produces the high voltage spike in the Secondary windings and delivers the spark. So the condenser really only there to absorb the arcing and assist the collapse of the primary windings. One reference on Kettering systems is here: www.ratwell.com/mirror/users.mrbean.net.au/~rover/ketterin.htm.

​@@thomasdejohn9347 I think I see what you're talking about. So the point of clarification is, does the condenser act *only* to prevent arcing at the contacts. I think that is by far the most important action, but it's not the only thing going on. If that were the only factor, it wouldn't really matter how "large" the condenser is, i.e., how high its capacitance. But that's not true in practice. Experiments with other Kettering system engines have shown that there is an optimal size (in practice, a range of sizes) for a condenser for a given engine. The condenser should be large enough to prevent arcing, but no larger. The reason is that a larger condenser will provide a path for the current for a longer time after the points open. The Kettering system is a type of tuned circuit, meaning a circuit containing an inductor and a capacitor. When the points open, current resonates (oscillates) back and forth between the coil and the condenser. The amplitude and frequency of the resonance are correlated. As the condenser gets larger, it absorbs current for longer, and the "back-pressure" voltage with which it feeds current back into the circuit decreases. This causes the amplitude and frequency of the resonance to decrease. This is important because the amplitude of the resonance is what creates the voltage in the secondary winding. Higher amplitude = higher spark voltage. There's a great demonstration of this in antique outboard motors that I will link to below. On p. 6 of the linked document, you can clearly see how the size of the condenser affects the spark voltage. That's why I mention the "back-pressure" effect of the condenser in the video and I think that's what you were picking up on. wrcoutboards.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Part3_Sizing_Condensers_Correctly.pdf

@@alexiskai Thanks, I read that article and yes your reference to a "back pressure" effect of the condenser is what I found misleading. The article you've cited explains that the collapse of the primary magnetic field generates several hundred volts in the primary and tens of thousands of volts in the secondary to cause the arc across the spark plug gap. Those several hundred volts generated in the primary would also arc across the point gap if it were not for a condenser of the right capacity to absorb just enough of that energy to prevent the arc on the points but not enough to lower the primary voltage amplitude enough to adversely affect the secondary voltage. There is essentially no discussion of a "back pressure" or any "feeding back" into the circuit. The article concludes " . . . that the condenser size is FAR from critical; anything large enough to quench the arcing cross your points is all you need."

@@thomasdejohn9347 He doesn't discuss it in print but you can see in the oscilloscope diagrams he includes that the resonance is there. How could it exist if there weren't a reverse voltage across the coil primary winding caused by the capacitor discharging? This section of the Wikipedia page on LC circuits gives a nice summary: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LC_circuit#Operation I agree with you that dissipating the arc at the points is 95% of the job of the condenser, but insofar as I was trying in that video to give a reasonably complete description of the electrical activity, it would be misleading not to discuss what happens when the condenser discharges. I might have given it too much prominence.

On my unit, the two knobs are slightly offset, so they don't come together point-to-point. When they touch, the knob reads in the center of the red zone.

I guess because the math is easier to do in your head, and with digital calipers you can get the readout in any units you want.